Method for lightening dyeing keratinous substance by using anhydrous dyeing composition comprising alkali agent and oxidative composition

The present invention relates to methods for lightening and dyeing human keratinous substances, especially hair.

Methods for lightening keratinous materials, such as human keratin fibers, very often involve the use of aqueous compositions containing at least one oxidizing agent under alkaline pH conditions. This oxidant has the role of decomposing the melanin in the hair and lightening the fibers somewhat more clearly depending on the nature of the oxidant present. Therefore, for relatively weak lightening, the oxidant is generally hydrogen peroxide. When stronger lightening is required, peroxides, such as persulfates, are usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide.

One of the problems arises from the fact that the lightening method is carried out under alkaline conditions and the most widely used alkaline agent is aqueous ammonia. Ammonia water is particularly advantageous for this type of method. The reason for this is that it can adjust the pH of the composition to alkaline pH, allowing activation of the oxidant. The agent also expands the keratin fibers and increases the scale, facilitating the penetration of the oxidant into the fibers, thus increasing the effectiveness of the reaction.

However, this basicizing agent is very volatile and the user becomes uncomfortable with the characteristic strong and very unpleasant ammonia odor released through the method.

Also, the amount of ammonia released requires the use of a content that exceeds the amount required to compensate for this loss. This inevitably affects the user, who not only feels the odor unpleasant, but may also face a greater risk of intolerance, such as scalp irritation (stinging).

With respect to the option of completely replacing all or part of the aqueous ammonia with one or more other standard alkaline agents, this is especially sufficient for these basicizing agents to be sufficient of colored fibers in the presence of oxidizing agents. It does not provide a composition that is as efficient as that based on aqueous ammonia, as it does not provide a noble lightening.

In the context of hair dyeing, oxidative compositions are used to permanently dye hair starting from dye precursors such as oxidative bases and couplers. In the context of direct staining, this method does not require the use of an oxidant to develop color, but does not preclude the use of an oxidant to obtain a lightening effect along with coloring. The method is then referred to as direct staining or semi-permanent staining under lightening conditions.

The role of this oxidant is to break down the melanin in the hair and lighten the fibers somewhat more clearly depending on the nature of the oxidant present. Therefore, for relatively weak lightening, the oxidant is generally hydrogen peroxide. When stronger lightening is desired, a peroxide salt, such as a persulfate, is usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide.

One of the problems arises from the fact that these methods are carried out under alkaline conditions and that the most widely used alkaline agent is aqueous ammonia. The use of ammonia water is particularly advantageous for this type of method. The reason for this is that aqueous ammonia can adjust the pH of the composition to alkaline pH, allowing activation of the oxidant. However, the alkaline agent also expands the keratin fibers and increases the scale to promote the penetration of the oxidants and dyes, substantially the oxidative dyes, into the fibers, thus increasing the effectiveness of the dyeing reaction.

However, this basicizing agent is very volatile and the user becomes uncomfortable with the characteristic strong and very unpleasant ammonia odor released through the method.

Also, the amount of ammonia released requires the use of a content that exceeds the amount required to compensate for this loss. This inevitably affects the user, who not only feels the odor unpleasant, but can also face a greater risk of intolerance, eg, scalp irritation, which causes especially stinging.

With respect to the option of completely replacing all or part of the aqueous ammonia with one or more other standard basicizing agents, this is especially true when these basicizing agents are colored fibers in the presence of oxidizing agents. It does not provide a composition as efficient as that based on aqueous ammonia, as it does not provide sufficient lightening.

<p><patcit num="1"><text>GB1 026 978</text></patcit><patcit num="2"><text>GB1 153 196</text></patcit><patcit num="3"><text>FR2801308</text></patcit><patcit num="4"><text>DE2 359 399</text></patcit><patcit num="5"><text>JP88-169 571</text></patcit><patcit num="6"><text>JP05-63124</text></patcit><patcit num="7"><text>EP0 770 375</text></patcit><patcit num="8"><text>WO 96/15765</text></patcit><patcit num="9"><text>DE3 843 892</text></patcit><patcit num="10"><text>DE4 133 957</text></patcit><patcit num="11"><text>WO94 / 08969</text></patcit><patcit num="12"><text>WO94 / 08970</text></patcit><patcit num="13"><text>FR-A2 733 749</text></patcit><patcit num="14"><text>DE195 43 988</text></patcit><patcit num="15"><text>WO95 / 15144</text></patcit><patcit num="16"><text>WO95 / 01772</text></patcit><patcit num="17"><text>EP714 954</text></patcit><patcit num="18"><text>FR2 189 006</text></patcit><patcit num="19"><text>FR2 285 851</text></patcit><patcit num="20"><text>FR2 140 205</text></patcit><patcit num="21"><text>EP1 378 544</text></patcit><patcit num="22"><text>EP1 674 073</text></patcit><patcit num="23"><text>EP1 637 566</text></patcit><patcit num="24"><text>EP1 619 221</text></patcit><patcit num="25"><text>EP1 634 926</text></patcit><patcit num="26"><text>EP1 619 220</text></patcit><patcit num="27"><text>EP1 672 033</text></patcit><patcit num="28"><text>EP1 671 954</text></patcit><patcit num="29"><text>EP1 671 955</text></patcit><patcit num="30"><text>EP1 679 312</text></patcit><patcit num="31"><text>EP1 671 951</text></patcit><patcit num="32"><text>EP167 952</text></patcit><patcit num="33"><text>EP167 971</text></patcit><patcit num="34"><text>WO06 / 063 866</text></patcit><patcit num="35"><text>WO06 / 063 867</text></patcit><patcit num="36"><text>WO06 / 063 868</text></patcit><patcit num="37"><text>WP06 / 063 869</text></patcit><patcit num="38"><text>EP1 408 919</text></patcit><patcit num="39"><text>EP1 377 264</text></patcit><patcit num="40"><text>EP1 377 262</text></patcit><patcit num="41"><text>EP1 377 261</text></patcit><patcit num="42"><text>EP1 377 263</text></patcit><patcit num="43"><text>EP1 399 425</text></patcit><patcit num="44"><text>EP1 399 117</text></patcit><patcit num="45"><text>EP1 416 909</text></patcit><patcit num="46"><text>EP1 399 116</text></patcit><patcit num="47"><text>EP1 671 560</text></patcit><patcit num="48"><text>EP1 006 153</text></patcit><patcit num="49"><text>EP1 433 472</text></patcit><patcit num="50"><text>EP1 433 474</text></patcit><patcit num="51"><text>EP1 433 471</text></patcit><patcit num="52"><text>EP1 433 473</text></patcit><patcit num="53"><text>EP6 291 333</text></patcit></p>

<p><nplcit num="1"><text>Walter Noll's "Chemistry and technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press</text></nplcit><nplcit num="2"><text>Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd &amp; Byers, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics"</text></nplcit></p>

<p> Therefore, one of the objects of the present invention is an oxidant that does not have the drawbacks of existing methods while maintaining at least the same efficiency with respect to the resulting dyeing power, chromaticity and uniformity of fiber coloration. Is to present a staining method performed in the presence of.</p>

<p> These and other objectives are achieved by the present invention, and therefore one subject thereof is a method for staining keratinous substances. (a) From one or more fatty substances, one or more surfactants, one or more alkaline agents, and oxidative dyes and / or direct dyes in an amount greater than 20% by weight of the total mass of the composition. Anhydrous composition (A), comprising one or more selected colored or colored chemical species. (b) Composition (B) containing one or more oxidizing agents, When the composition contains only one or more direct dyes as a coloring or coloring species, the content of the fatty material is 40-80% by mass of the total mass of the anhydrous composition. A method that includes the steps to be used.</p><p> The present invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising an anhydrous composition (A) in one compartment and a composition (B) containing one or more oxidants in another compartment.</p>

In the text below, the limits of a range of numbers are included in that range, unless otherwise specified.

The keratinous substances treated by the method according to the invention are, for example, skin and hair. The methods of the present invention make it possible to obtain good levels of lightening of keratinous substances such as hair, in particular without emitting an irritating ammonia odor.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous composition" is water-free or has a water content of less than 0 and 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, based on the weight of the anhydrous composition. Refers to a cosmetic composition that is less than 1% by weight. It should be noted that this is more specifically bound water, such as salt crystallized water, or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the production of the anhydrous composition according to the invention.

Anhydrous composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances.

The term "fat substance" is insoluble in water at normal temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.1%. Refers to an organic compound. They exhibit at least one chain of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms in their structure. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquefied petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane under the same temperature and pressure conditions.

Fat substances are selected from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, mineral oils, vegetable oils, animal oils or synthetic oils, preferably non-silicone mineral oils, vegetable oils, animal oils or synthetic oils, non-silicone waxes and silicones. Will be done.

For the purposes of the present invention, fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids, more specifically, contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more (particularly 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. It is expected to contain one or more linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can contain from 1 to 3 conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

For lower alkanes, these alkanes contain 6 to 16 carbon atoms and are linear or branched, optionally cyclic. As an example, the alkane can be selected from isoparaffins such as hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isohexadecane and isodecan.

Examples of non-silicone oils that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include -Animal-derived hydrocarbon oils such as perhydrosqualene; -Liquid fatty acid triglyceride containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanic acid or octanoic acid triglyceride, or, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, mallow oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hashbami oil, apricot oil. , Macadamia oil, Arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, capril / capric acid triglyceride, eg, sold by Stearineries Dubois, or sold by Dynamit Nobel under the trade names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818. Plant-derived hydrocarbon oils such as stuff, jojoba oil and shea butter oil; -Hydrogenated polyisobutene such as liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, liquefied petroleum jelly, Parleam®, preferably hydrocarbon polyisobutene such as liquid paraffin, petroleum jelly, liquefied petroleum jelly, polydecene, and Parleam. , Linear or branched hydrocarbons derived from petroleum or synthetics with more than 16 carbon atoms; -Especially hydrocarbon-based fluorooils; examples of fluorooils that can be mentioned are perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-sold by BNFL Fluorochmicals under the trade names of Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3. 1,3-Dimethylcyclohexane; Perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; Perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane sold by 3M under the trade names PF 5050® and PF 5060®. , Or bromoperfluorooctanoic acid sold by Atochem under the trade name Foralkyl®; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; 4-trifluoromethyl sold by 3M under the trade name of PF 5052®. Includes perfluoromorpholin derivatives such as perfluoromorpholin.

The fatty alcohols that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are not oxyalkylated. They are saturated or unsaturated linear or branched and contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more specifically 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples thereof include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.

The non-silicone wax that can be used in the composition of the present invention is carnauba wax, candelilla wax, espartograss wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, or volatilization of black cedar flowers sold by Bertin (France). Other wax or wax-like starting materials selected from plant waxes such as anhydrous waxes of flowers such as sex waxes, animal waxes such as beeswax or modified beeswax (Ceraberina) and can be used according to the present invention are particularly of M82. The entire marine wax, polyethylene wax or polyolefin wax, such as products sold by Sophim by reference.

The fatty acids that can be used in the compositions of the present invention may be saturated or unsaturated and may contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 30 carbon atoms. More specifically, they are selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

The ester is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁~ C₂₆Aliphatic mono or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁~ C₂₆It is an ester of an aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohol, and the total carbon number of the ester is, more specifically, 10 or more.

Among the monoesters, dihydroabiethyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C lactate₁₂~ C₁₅Alkyl; Isostearyl Lactate; Lauryl Lactate; Linorail Lactate; Oleyl Lactate; Stearyl Octanoate; Isocetyl Octanoate; Octyl Octanoate; Cetyl Octanoate; Decyl Oleate; Isocetyl Isostearate; Isocetyl Laurate; Isocetyl Stearate; Isodecyl octanoate; Isodecyl oleate; Isononyl isononanoate; Isostearyl palmitate; Methylacetyl palmitate; Myristyl stearate; Octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; Octyl palmitate; Oleyl octyldodecyl; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, alkyl myristyl such as myristyl or stearyl, Hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Furthermore, in the range of this modified form, C₄~ C₂₂Esters of dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids, and C₁~ C₂₂Alcohol esters, and mono, di or tricarboxylic acid esters, and C₂~ C₂₆Esters of di, tri, tetra or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.

In particular, diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylate; octyldodecylstearoyl stearate; pentamonolysinolate Erislithyl; Pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; Pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; Pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; Propropylene glycol dicaprate; Glyceryl trilactic acid; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearate.

Among the above esters, alkyl myristate such as ethyl palmitate, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl, stearic acid Hexyl, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate are preferred.

The composition is C as a fatty ester.₆~ C₃₀, Preferably C₁₂~ C₂₂Fatty acid sugar esters and diesters can also be included. The term "sugar" is expected to refer to oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds containing or not containing aldehyde or ketone functional groups, containing several alcohol functional groups and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that can be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucol, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, especially methyl derivatives such as methyl glucose. Alkyl derivatives such as are included.

Fatty acid sugar esters, in particular linear or branched saturated or unsaturated C with the aforementioned sugars₆~ C₃₀, Preferably C₁₂~ C₂₂It can be selected from the group containing esters of fatty acids or mixtures of esters. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can contain from 1 to 3 conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Esters in this modified form can also be selected from mono, di, tri, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters are, for example, oleic acid ester, lauric acid ester, palmitic acid ester, myristic acid ester, behenic acid ester, coconut fatty acid ester, stearic acid ester, linoleic acid ester, linolenic acid ester, capric acid ester and arachidonic acid ester. , Or in particular a mixture thereof such as oleo-palmitic acid, oleo-stearic acid and palmito-stearic acid mixed esters.

It is better to use monoesters and diesters, especially mono or dioleic acid esters of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, stearic acid esters, behenic acid esters, oleopalmitic acid esters, linoleic acid esters, linolenic acid esters and oleostearic acid esters. Especially suitable.

An example that can be mentioned is a product sold by Amerchol under the trade name of Glucate® DO, which is methyl glucose dioleate.

An example of an ester of sugar and fatty acid or a mixture of esters that can be mentioned is -From 73% monoesters and 27% diesters and triesters, from 61% monoesters and 39% diesters, triesters and tetraesters, to 52% monoesters and 48% diesters, triesters and, respectively. Palmitostearate sucrose, and monolaurin formed from tetraesters, 45% monoesters and 55% diesters, triesters and tetraesters, 39% monoesters and 61% diesters, triesters and tetraesters. Products sold by Crodesta under the trade names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40, which represent acid sucrose; -Products sold under the trade name of Ryoto Sugar Esters, eg B370, corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monomer and 80% di, triester, polyester; -Includes sucrose mono-dipalmitostearate sold by Goldschmidt under the trade name Tegosoft® PSE.

The silicones that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are unmodified or modified with organic groups and 5 × 10 at 25 ° C.^-6From 2.5m²/ s, preferably 1x10^-5From 1m²A volatile or non-volatile cyclic, linear or branched silicone with a viscosity of / s.

Silicones that can be used according to the present invention may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or rubber.

Preferably, the silicone is selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and organically modified polysiloxanes containing at least one functional group selected from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups. ..

Organic polysiloxanes are defined in detail by Walter Noll's "Chemistry and technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are, more specifically, those having a boiling point of 60 ° C to 260 ° C, and even more specifically, (i) 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5 silicon. It is selected from cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing atoms. These are, for example, the octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the trade name Volatile Silicone® 7207 or by Rhodia under the trade name Silbione® 70045 V2, Volatile Silicone® 7158. Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the trade name of, and Silicone® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.

Formulas such as Volatile Silicone® FZ3109 sold by Union Carbide:

<chemistry num="1"><img file="JP2010143922A_D0001.tif" /></chemistry>

Dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type cyclopolymers can also be mentioned.

A mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis (2,2,2', 2', 3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyl) Oxy) A mixture of cyclic polydialkylsiloxane and an organic silicon compound, such as a mixture with neopentane; (ii) Containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, 5 × 10 at 25 ° C^-6m²Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with viscosities of / s or less can also be mentioned. An example is the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold by Toray Silicone, especially under the trade name SH 200. Silicones in this category are also described in an article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd &amp; Byers, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics".

It is preferable to use non-volatile polydialkylsiloxane, polydialkylsiloxane rubber and resin, polyorganicsiloxane modified with the above organic functional groups, and mixtures thereof.

More specifically, these silicones are selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, and among them, mainly polydimethylsiloxanes containing a trimethylsilyl terminal group can be mentioned. Silicone viscosities are measured, for example, at 25 ° C according to ASTM Standard 445 Appendix C.

Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, the following commercially available products can be mentioned without limitation. -Silbione® or Mirasil® oils of the 40 and 70047 series sold by Rhodia, eg 70047 V 500 500 oils; -Mirasil® series oils sold by Rhodia; -60000mm²Dow Corning 200 series oils such as DC200 with a viscosity of / s; -General Electric's Viscasil® oil and General Electric's SF series (SF 96, SF 18) constant oils.

Also mentioned are polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known by the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as Rhodia's 48 series oils.

In this category of polydialkylsiloxane, poly (C)₁~ C₂₀) Products sold by Goldschmidt under the trade names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801, which are dialkyl siloxanes, can also be mentioned.

Silicone rubbers that can be used according to the present invention are, in particular, polydialkylsiloxanes used alone or as a mixture in a solvent, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having a high number average molecular weight of 200,000 to 1000000. The solvent can be selected from volatile silicone, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oil, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oil, isoparaffin, polyisobutylene, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

More specifically, the products that can be used according to the present invention Polydimethylsiloxane with hydroxy chain ends, or a mixture formed from dimethiconol (CTFA) and cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as product Q2 1401 sold by Dow Corning. ; General Electric's product SF1214 Silicone Fluid A mixture formed from polydimethylsiloxane rubber with cyclic silicone; this product has a number average molecular weight dissolved in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid oil corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. SF 30 rubber for 500000 dimethicone; -Two PDMSs with different viscosities, more specifically a mixture of PDM rubber and PDM oil, such as General Electric's product SF 1236. Product SF 1236 is 20m²SE 30 rubber as defined above, with a viscosity of / s, and 5x10^-6m²It is a mixture with SF 96 oil having a viscosity of / s. This product preferably contains 15% SE 30 rubber and 85% SF 96 oil.

The organic polysiloxane resin that can be used according to the present invention is a crosslinked siloxane type containing the following units. R₂SiO_2/2, R₃SiO_1/2, RSiO_3/2And SiO_4/2(In the formula, R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms.). Of these products, R is C, which is particularly suitable.₁~ C₄It represents a lower alkyl group, especially methyl.

Among these resins, products sold under the trade name of Dow Corning 593 or products sold by General Electric under the trade names of Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267, which are silicones with a dimethyl / trimethylsiloxane structure. Can be mentioned.

In particular, trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold by ShinEtsu under the trade names of X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 can also be mentioned.

The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are those defined above that contain one or more organic functional groups attached via hydrocarbon groups within their structure.

In addition to the above-mentioned silicone, the organically modified silicone may be a polydiarylsiloxane, particularly a polydiphenylsiloxane, or a polyalkylarylsiloxane functionalized with the organic functional groups already mentioned.

Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are, in particular, 1 × 10 at 25 ° C.^-5From 5x10^-2m²It is selected from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxane and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxane with viscosities of / s.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that can be mentioned are -Rhodia 70 641 Series Silbione® Oil; -Rhodia's Rhodoursil® 70 633 and 763 series oils; -Dow Corning's Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid Oil; -Bayer's PK series silicones such as product PK20; -Bayer's PN and PH series silicones such as products PN1000 and PH1000; -Includes products sold under certain oil trade names in General Electric's SF series, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Among the organically modified silicones -Dimethicone copolyol sold by Dow Corning under the trade name DC 1248, or Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 oil by Union Carbide, and Dow Corning under the trade name Q2 5200. Is for sale (C₁₂) C₆~ C₂₄Polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups, optionally containing alkyl groups; -Substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as products sold by Genesee under the trade names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100, or products sold by Dow Corning under the trade names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939. Substituted amine groups, in particular, C₁~ C₄Aminoalkyl group; Examples include products sold by SWS Silicones under the trade name of -Silicone Copolymer F-755, as well as polyorganic siloxanes containing alkoxylization groups such as Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt.

Preferably, the fatty material is a non-oxyalkylene or non-glycerolized material.

More specifically, the fatty material is selected from compounds that are liquid or pasty at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, the fatty material is a compound that is liquid at a temperature of 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure.

More specifically, fatty acids are different from fatty acids.

The fatty material is preferably selected from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils, especially mineral oils, vegetable oils or synthetic non-silicone oils, and silicones.

Preferably, the fatty material in the composition according to the invention is a non-silicone material.

According to one embodiment, the fatty material is selected from liquefied petroleum jelly, polydecene, liquid esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof. In particular, the fatty substance in the composition according to the present invention is a non-silicone substance.

Anhydrous composition (A) contains at least 20% fatty material. The fatty substance concentration is preferably in the range of 20% to 95%, more preferably 40% to 80% of the total mass of the composition.

The anhydrous composition (A) also comprises one or more surfactants.

Preferably, the surfactant is selected from nonionic or anionic surfactants.

The anionic surfactant is selected from, for example, salts of the following compounds (particularly alkali metal salts, in particular alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts, or magnesium salts). -Alkyl sulphate, alkyl ether sulphate, alkyl amide ether sulphate, alkylaryl polyether sulphate, monoglyceride sulphate; -Alkyl sulfonate, alkyl amide sulfonate, alkylaryl sulfonate, α-olefin sulfonate, paraffin sulfonate; -Alkyl phosphate, alkyl ether phosphate; -Alkyl sulfosuccinate, alkyl ether sulfosuccinate, alkylamide sulfosuccinate; alkyl sulfosuccinate; -Alkyl sulfoacetate; -Acyl sarcosine salts; Acyl ISEthionate and N-acyl taurine salts; -Salts of fatty acids such as oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil; -Alkyl-D-galactoside uronate; -Acyllactylate; -Polyoxyalkyleneated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkyleneized alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids or polyoxyalkyleneized alkylamide ether carboxylic acids, especially salts of acids containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; and -A mixture of them.

The alkyl or acyl groups of these various compounds advantageously contain 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, with the aryl group preferably representing a phenyl or benzyl group. Please note.

More specifically, the nonionic surfactant is selected from monooxyalkyleneized or polyoxyalkyleneized, monoglycerolized or polyglycerolized nonionic surfactants. More specifically, the oxyalkylene unit is oxyethylene or oxypropylene unit, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene unit.

Examples of oxyalkyleneized nonionic surfactants that can be mentioned include Oxyalkyleneization (C₈~ C₂₄) Alkylphenol, Saturated or unsaturated linear or branched oxyalkyleneized C₈~ C₃₀alcohol, Saturated or unsaturated linear or branched oxyalkyleneized C₈~ C₃₀Amide, Saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C₈~ C₃₀Acid and polyethylene glycol esters, Saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C₈~ C₃₀Polyoxyethylene ester of acid and sorbitol, Saturated or unsaturated oxyethylene vegetable oil, -In particular, a condensate of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide as a single substance or a mixture is included.

These surfactants contain several moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, from 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 30. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant does not contain oxypropylene units.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkyleneized nonionic surfactant is oxyethyleneated C.₈~ C₃₀, Preferably C₁₈~ C₃₀Selected from alcohol.

Examples of ethoxylated fatty alcohols that can be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide and lauryl alcohols, particularly those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups, and more specifically containing 10 to 12 oxyethylene groups. Things (CTFA name from Laureth-10 to Laureth -12); Adducts of ethylene oxide and behenyl alcohol, especially those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups (CTFA names Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-50); Ethylene oxide and cetostearyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) Adducts of (mixtures of), especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA names Ceteareth-10 to Ceteareth-30); adducts of ethylene oxide and cetyl alcohol, especially 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name: Ceteth-10 to Ceteth30); adducts of ethylene oxide and stearyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name: Steareth-10 to Steareth-30); Oxidation Includes adducts of ethylene and isostearyl alcohols, in particular those containing 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Isosteareth-10 to Isosteareth-50 in the CTFA name); and mixtures thereof.

Examples of ethoxyylated fatty acids that can be mentioned include ethylene oxide and lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearyl acid or behenic acid adducts, and mixtures thereof, particularly those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups, such as. , PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA name: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA name: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 From PEG-50 steerate (CTFA name: PEG-9 steerate to PEG-50-steerate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmito steerate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA name: PEG- Includes 9 behenates to PEG-50 behenates); and mixtures thereof.

Mixtures of these oxyethyleneated derivatives of fatty alcohols and fatty acids can also be used.

According to one preferred embodiment, the composition (A) comprises at least one ethoxylated fatty alcohol.

Monoglycerolization or polyglycerolization As an example of nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolization or polyglycerolation C₈~ C₄₀It is preferable to use alcohol.

In particular, monoglycerol or polyglycerolized C₈~ C₄₀Alcohol has the following formula: RO- [CH₂-CH (CH)₂OH) -O]_m-H (In the formula, R is linear or branched C₈~ C₄₀, Preferably C₈~ C₃₀Represents an alkyl or alkenyl group, where m represents a number in the range 1 to 30, preferably 1 to 10. ) Corresponds.

Examples of compounds suitable within the scope of the present invention are lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol glycerol, and oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether). INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol glycerol, 6 Oleocetyl alcohol containing mol glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 mol glycerol can be mentioned.

Alcohols can represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in commercial products, several types of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols can coexist in the form of a mixture. means.

Among monoglycerolized or polyglycerolated alcohols, C containing 1 mol of glycerol₈/ C₁₀C containing alcohol, 1 mole of glycerol₁₀/ C₁₂C containing alcohol and 1.5 moles of glycerol₁₂It is particularly preferable to use alcohol.

More specifically, the surfactant content in the anhydrous composition (A) is 0.1% by mass to 50% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 30% by mass, based on the mass of the anhydrous composition.

Anhydrous composition (A) useful in the present invention comprises one or more alkaline agents.

The alkaline agent can be selected from inorganic bases, organic amines and organic amine salts, either alone or as a mixture.

With respect to organic amines, they preferably have a pKb of less than 12, preferably less than 10, and even more preferably less than 6, at 25 ° C. Note that this is the pKb corresponding to the functional group with the highest basicity.

Examples of organic amines that can be mentioned are one or more linear or linear or plural containing one or two primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional groups and one or more hydroxyl groups. Branched C₁~ C₈It is an organic amine containing an alkyl group.

1 to 3 identical or different C₁~ C₄Organic amines selected from alkanolamines such as mono, di or trialkanolamines containing hydroxyalkyl groups are particularly suitable for use in the present invention.

Among the compounds of this type that can be mentioned are monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, Triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethylamino) methane is there.

The following formula:

<chemistry num="2"><img file="JP2010143922A_D0002.tif" /></chemistry>

(In the formula, W is optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group, C₁~ C₆Alkylene residue, or C₁~ C₆Alkyl groups; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt can be the same or different, hydrogen atom or C₁~ C₆Alkyl, C₁~ C₆Hydroxyalkyl or C₁~ C₆Represents an aminoalkyl group. ) Is also suitable for use.

Examples of such amines that can be mentioned include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.

According to another variant of the invention, the organic amine is selected from amino acids.

More specifically, the amino acids that can be used are of natural or synthetic origin in the L, D or racem form, and more specifically, at least one acid functional group selected from carboxylic acids, sulfonic acids, phosphonic acids and phosphoric acid functional groups. including. Amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.

Advantageously, the amino acid is a basic amino acid containing an additional amine functional group, optionally contained in the ring or ureido functional group.

The basic amino acid is preferably prepared by the following formula (I):

<chemistry num="3"><img file="JP2010143922A_D0003.tif" /></chemistry>

(In the formula, R is

<chemistry num="4"><img file="JP2010143922A_D0004.tif" /></chemistry>

;-(CH₂)₃NH₂;-(CH₂)₂NH₂;-(CH₂)₂NHCONH₂;

<chemistry num="5"><img file="JP2010143922A_D0005.tif" /></chemistry>

Represents a group selected from. ) Corresponds to.

The compounds corresponding to formula (I) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.

Amino acids that can be used in the present invention include, in particular, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulin, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, lysine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine. , Taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

According to one preferred variant of the invention, the organic amine is selected from basic amino acids. Particularly suitable amino acids are arginine, lysine and histidine, or mixtures thereof.

According to another variant of the invention, the organic amine is selected from heterocyclic organic amines. In addition to the histidines already mentioned in the amino acids, pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, 1,2,4-triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole can be mentioned in particular.

According to another variant of the invention, the organic amine is selected from amino acid dipeptides. Amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present invention include, in particular, carnosine, anserine and valene.

According to another variant of the invention, the organic amine is selected from compounds containing guanidine functional groups. Examples of this type of amine that can be used in the present invention include creatine, creatine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycosiamine, metformin, agmatine, and N-, in addition to arginine already mentioned as an amino acid. Examples thereof include amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino (imino) methyl] amino) ethane-1-sulfonic acid.

Preferably, the organic amine is an alkanolamine. More preferably, the organic amine is selected from 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol and monoethanolamine, or mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the organic amine is a monoethanolamine.

The alkaline agent may be an organic amine in the form of a salt. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "organic amine salt" refers to the organic or inorganic salts of the above organic amines.

Preferably, the organic salt is selected from salts of organic acids such as citrate, lactate, glycolate, gluconate, acetate, propionate, fumarate, oxalate and tartrate.

Preferably, the inorganic salt is selected from hydrohalogenates (eg, hydrochlorides), carbonates, bicarbonates, sulfates, hydrogen phosphates and phosphates.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "inorganic" includes, within its structure, one or more elements of groups 1 to 13 of the periodic table of elements other than hydrogen, not carbon or hydrogen atoms at the same time. Refers to any compound.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the inorganic base comprises one or more elements of groups 1 and 2 of the periodic table of elements other than hydrogen.

In one preferred variant, the inorganic base has the following structure: (Z₁^x-)_m(Z₂^{y +})_n(During the ceremony, Z₂Represents groups 1 to 13, preferably groups 1 or 2 of the periodic table of elements such as sodium or potassium; Z₁^x-Is CO₃^2-, OH^-, HCO₃^2-, SiO₃^2-, HPO₄^2-, PO₄^3-And B₄O₇^2-Anions selected from ions, preferably CO₃^2-, OH^-And SiO₃^2-Represents an anion selected from ions; x stands for 1, 2 or 3; y stands for 1, 2, 3 or 4; m and n represent 1, 2, 3 or 4 independently of each other; ny = mx. ).

Preferably, the inorganic base is of the formula (Z₁^x-)_m(Z₂^{y +})_n(In the formula, Z₂Represents the metals of groups 1 and 2 of the periodic table of elements; Z₁^x-Is CO₃^2-, OH^-And SiO₃^2-Represents an anion selected from ions, x is 1, y represents 1 or 2, m and n represent 1 or 2 independently of each other, and ny = mx. ) Corresponds.

Examples of the inorganic base that can be used according to the present invention include sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium metasilicate and potassium metasilicate.

The ammonium salt that can be used in the anhydrous composition (A) according to the present invention is preferably the following acid salts, that is, acetates, carbonates, bicarbonates, chlorides, citrates, lead nitrates, nitrites, phosphates. It is selected from salt and sulfate. Particularly preferably, the salt is a carbonate such as ammonium carbonate.

Preferably, if the composition comprises one of aqueous ammonia or a salt thereof, the amount of alkaline agent is (NH.₃More than the amount of ammonia water (represented by).

In general, the anhydrous composition (A) has an alkaline agent content in the range of 0.1% by mass to 40% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 20% by mass, based on the mass of the composition.

The anhydrous composition comprises a coloring species or a coloring species selected from oxidative dyes and direct dyes.

Oxidizing dyes are generally selected from oxidative bases that are optionally combined with one or more couplers.

The oxidative base is selected from, for example, para-phenylenediamine, bis (phenyl) alkylenediamine, para-aminophenol, ortho-aminophenol and heterocyclic bases, and addition salts thereof.

Among the para-phenylenediamines that can be mentioned are, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylene diamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-. Dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine , N, N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N, N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N- Bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-NN-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para- Phenylene diamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine , N-Ethyl-N- (β-Hydroxyethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, N- (β, γ-dihydroxypropyl) -para-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N- (β-methoxyethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, Addition with 4-aminophenylpyrrolidin, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1- (4'-aminophenyl) pyrrolidine, and their acids There is salt.

Among the para-phenylenediamines listed above, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylene diamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl Oxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) )-Para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and addition salts with their acids are particularly preferred.

Among the bis (phenyl) alkylenediamines that can be mentioned are, for example, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diaminopropanol. , N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'- Bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (ethyl) There are -N, N'-bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts. ..

Among the para-aminophenols that can be mentioned are, for example, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino. -3-Hydroxymethylphenol, 4-Amino-2-methylphenol, 4-Amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-Amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-Amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-Amino- There are 2- (β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, as well as addition salts with their acids.

Among the ortho-aminophenols that can be mentioned are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and theirs. There is additional salt.

Among the heterocyclic bases that can be mentioned are, for example, pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.

Among the pyridine derivatives that can be mentioned are, for example, the compounds described in Japanese Patent GB1 026 978 and Japanese Patent GB1 153 196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-amino. There are pyridines and 3,4-diaminopyridines, as well as their additions.

Other pyridine oxidizing bases useful in the present invention are, for example, the 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine oxidizing base described in patent application FR2801308 or an addition salt thereof. Examples that can be mentioned are pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo [1]. , 5-a] pyrido-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] -pyridin-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-3-ylamine, (3- Aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-7-yl) methanol, 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-5-yl) ethanol, 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] Pyrido-7-yl) ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-2-yl) methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo [1,5-a] Pyridine, Pyrazoro [1,5-a] Pyridine-3,7-Diamine, 7-Morphorin-4-ylpyrazolo [1,5-a] Pyrido-3-ylamine, Pyrazolo [1,5] -a] Pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-5) -Il) (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-7-yl) (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5 -a] Pyridine-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] Pyridine-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] Pyridine-6-ol and 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] ] Pyridine-7-ol, as well as their addition salts.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives that can be mentioned are, for example, the compounds described in Patent DE2 359 399; Patent JP88-169 571; Patent JP05-63124; Patent EP0 770 375 or Patent Application WO 96/15765, eg 2, 4,5,6-Tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine And 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidines, as well as their addition salts, and their tautomers, if tetable equilibrium is present.

Among the pyrazole derivatives that can be mentioned are patent DE3 843 892 and patent DE4 133 957, as well as patent application WO 94/08969, patent application WO 94/08970, patent application FR-A2 733 749 and patent application DE 195 43. Compounds described in 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1- (4'-Chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3 -Phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydradinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methyl Pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) -3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3 -Methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxy Methyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5- (2'-aminoethyl) ) Amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and There are 3,5-diamino-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methylpyrazole, as well as their addition salts. 4,5-Diamino-1- (β-methoxyethyl) pyrazole can also be used.

Heterocyclic bases that can be used are 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H-, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazolo-1-one or salts thereof.

The cosmetic composition (B) according to the present invention can advantageously include one or more couplers selected from those conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibers.

Among these couplers, in particular, meta-phenylenediamine, meta-aminophenol, meta-diphenol, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and their addition salts can be mentioned.

For example, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2- Amino-4- (β-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1- Dimethylaminobenzene, sesamole, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N -Methylindol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedi Oxybenzene, 2,6-bis (β-hydroxyethylamino) toluene, 6-hydroxyindolin, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazo-5-one, 1-phenyl-3 -Methylpyrazole-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-b] -1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl [3,2-c] -1,2,4- Examples thereof include triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo [1,5-a] benzimidazole, addition salts with their acids, and mixtures thereof.

In general, the oxide base and coupler addition salts that can be used within the scope of the present invention are, in particular, hydrochlorides, hydrobromates, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosilates. , Benzin sulfonate, phosphate and addition salts with acids such as acetate.

The oxidative bases each advantageously occupy 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

If a coupler is present, its content is preferably 0.0001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition (B), respectively. Occupies% to 5% by mass.

With respect to direct dyes, these dyes are more specifically selected from ionic and non-ionic species, preferably cationic or non-ionic species.

Examples of suitable direct dyes that can be mentioned include azo; methine; carbonyl; azine; nitro (hetero) aryl; tri (hetero) arylmethane; porphyrin; phthalocyanine direct dye, and natural direct dye, either alone or as a mixture. included.

More specifically, the azo dye contains a -N = N-functional group whose two nitrogen atoms are not constrained in the ring at the same time. However, it does not rule out that one of the two nitrogen atoms in the -N = N-chain is constrained within the ring.

Group dyes are, more specifically, compounds containing at least one chain selected from&gt; C = C &lt;and N = C &lt;, the two atoms of which are not constrained within the ring at the same time. However, it is shown that one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms in those chains can be constrained within the ring. More specifically, the dyes of this family include methine, azomethine, mono and diarylmethane, indamine (or diphenylamine), indophenol, indoaniline, carbocyanine, azacarbocyanine and their isomers, diazacarbocyanine and theirs. Derived from various compounds such as isomers of, tetraazacarbocyanine and hemicyanine.

Examples of carbonyl family dyes that can be mentioned include acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzantron, anthraquinone, pyrantron, pyrazolantron, pyrimidinoantron, flavantron, idantron, flavone, (iso) biolantron, iso. Includes dyes selected from indolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthraquinone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigoid, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapymidin, diketopyrrolopyrrole and coumarin.

Examples of dyes of the cyclic azine family include azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluolindin, acridine, (di) oxazone, (di) thiazine and pyronin.

Nitro (hetero) aromatic dyes are, more specifically, nitrobenzene or nitropyridine direct dyes.

For porphyrin or phthalocyanine type dyes, it is possible to use cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally containing one or more metals or metal ions, such as alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, zinc and silicon. Is.

Examples of particularly suitable direct dyes that can be mentioned are nitrobenzene dyes, either alone or as a mixture; azo direct dyes; azomethine direct dyes; methine direct dyes; azacarbocyanine direct dyes, such as tetraazacarbocyanine (tetraazapentan). Metin); quinones, especially anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone substantive dyes; include azine, xanthene, triarylmethane, indamine, indigoid and phthalocyanine substantive dyes, porphyrin and natural substantive dyes.

These dyes may be monochromophore dyes (ie, containing only one dye) or polychromophore dyes, preferably dichromophore or trichromophore dyes, the chromophores being the same. May be different, may or may not come from the same chemical family. It should be noted that polychromatic dyes contain several groups, each derived from a molecule that absorbs in the visible region of 400-800 nm. Also, absorption of this dye does not require pre-oxidizing it or combining it with other species.

In the case of polychromophore dyes, the chromophores are attached to each other by at least one linker, which may be cationic or non-cationic.

Among the benzene dyes that can be used according to the present invention, the following compounds can be mentioned without limitation. -1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene -1-Amino-2-nitro-4-β-Hydroxyethylaminobenzene -1-Amino-2-nitro-4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene -1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene -1-β-Hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis (β-hydroxyethylamino) benzene -1-β-Hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene -1-β-Hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4- (ethyl) (β-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene -1-Amino-3-methyl-4-β-Hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene -1-Amino-2-nitro-4-β-Hydroxyethylamino-5-Chlorobenzene -1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene -1-Amino-2-β-Hydroxyethylamino-5-Nitrobenzene -1,2-bis (β-hydroxyethylamino) -4-nitrobenzene -1-Amino-2-tris (Hydroxymethyl) Methylamino-5-Nitrobenzene -1-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene -1-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene -1-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene -1-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene -1-β-Hydroxyethyloxy-2-β-Hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene -1-Methoxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene -1-β-Hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene -1-β, γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene -1-β-Hydroxyethylamino-4-β, γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene -1-β, γ-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene -1-β-Hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene -1-β-Hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene -1-β-Aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene -1-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene -1-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene -1-Hydroxy-6-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-3-nitrobenzene -1-β-Hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene -1-Hydroxy-4-β-Hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

Among the azo, azomethin, methine and tetraazapentamethine direct dyes that can be used according to the present invention, patent application WO95 / 15144, patent application WO95 / 01772 and patent application EP714 954; patent application FR2 189 006, patent application FR2 285 851, The cationic dyes described in patent application FR2 140 205, patent application EP1 378 544 and patent application EP1 674 07 73 can be mentioned.

The following compounds can also be mentioned.

<chemistry num="6"><img file="JP2010143922A_D0006.tif" /></chemistry>

Among the azo direct dyes that can be mentioned are the following dyes listed in Color Index International, 3rd Edition. -Disperse Thread 17 -Basic Red 22 -Basic Red 76 -Basic Yellow 57 -Basic brown 16 -Basic Brown 17 -Disperse Black 9.

1- (4'-Aminodiphenylazo) -2-methyl-4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene can also be mentioned.

Among the quinone substantive dyes that can be mentioned are the following dyes: -Disperse thread 15 -Solvent Violet 13 -Disperse Violet 1 -Disperse Violet 4 -Disperse Blue 1 -Disperse Violet 8 -Disperse Blue 3 -Disperse Red 11 -Disperse Blue 7 -Basic Blue 22 -Disperse Violet 15 -Basic Blue 99 And the following compounds: -1-N-Methylmorpholinium Propylamino-4-Hydroxyanthraquinone -1-Aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone -1-Aminopropylaminoanthraquinone -5-β-Hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone -2-Aminoethylaminoanthraquinone There is -1,4-bis (β, γ-dihydroxypropylamino) anthraquinone.

Among the azine dyes that can be mentioned are the following compounds. -Basic Blue 17 -Basic Red 2.

Among the triarylmethane dyes that can be used according to the present invention, the following compounds can be mentioned. -Basic Green 1 -Basic Violet 3 -Basic Violet 14 -Basic Blue 7 -Basic Blue 26.

Among the indoamine dyes that can be used according to the present invention, the following compounds can be mentioned. -2-β-Hydroxyethylamino-5- [bis (β-4'-hydroxyethyl) amino] -anilino-1,4-benzoquinone -2-β-Hydroxyethylamino-5- (2'-methoxy-4'-amino) Anilino-1,4-benzoquinone -3-N- (2'-Chloro-4'-hydroxy) Phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinoneimine -3-N- (3'-Chloro-4'-Methylamino) Phenylureide-6-Methyl-1,4-benzoquinoneimine -3- [4'-N- (ethyl, carbamilmethyl) amino] Phenylureide-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinoneimine.

Among the tetraazapentamine-type dyes that can be used according to the present invention, the following compounds in which An is already defined and shown in the following table can be mentioned.

<chemistry num="7"><img file="JP2010143922A_D0007.tif" /></chemistry>

(X^-Preferred represents an anion selected from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate and perchlorate. ).

Among the multiple color group dyes, in particular, patent application EP1 637 566, patent application EP1 619 221, patent application EP1 634 926, patent application EP1 619 220, patent application EP1 672 033, patent application EP1 671 954, patent application EP1 671 955, Patent application EP1 679 312, Patent application EP1 671 951, Patent application EP167 952, Patent application EP167 971, Patent application WO06 / 063 866, Patent application WO06 / 063 867, Patent application WO06 / 063 868, Patent application WP06 / 063 869, Patent application EP1 408 919, Patent application EP1 377 264, Patent application EP1 377 262, Patent application EP1 377 261, Patent application EP1 377 263, Patent application EP1 399 425, Patent application EP1 399 117, Patent application EP1 416 909, Patent application EP1 399 116 and patent application EP1 671 560 can be referred to.

Patent Application EP1 006 153; Dyes containing two anthraquinone-type chromophores linked via a cationic linker; the same or different dichromophores linked via a cationic or non-cationic linker Patent application EP1 433 472, patent application EP1 433 474, patent application EP1 433 471 and patent application EP1 433 473 in which the dye is described, and in particular, two chromophores of the azo or diazacarbocyanine type. Alternatively, it is also possible to use the cationic direct dyes listed in patent application EP6 291 333, which describes dyes containing three chromophores, which are anthraquinone chromophores to which their isomers are bound.

Among the natural substantive dyes that can be used according to the present invention include Lawson, Juglone, Alizarin, Purpurin, Carminic Acid, Kermesic Acid, Purprogalin, Protocatecardecide, Indigo, Isatin, Curcumin, Spinulosin, Apigenidin and Orcein. It is also possible to use extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, especially henna-based poultices or extracts.

If they are present, the direct dyes, more specifically, account for 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight, of the total mass of the composition.

The anhydrous composition (A) can contain one and / or other types of dyes. It can optionally accommodate two dye compositions that are mixed at the moment of use, one containing the oxidative dye and the other directly containing the dye.

Preferably, the anhydrous composition comprises one or more water-soluble organic solvents. Examples of water-soluble organic solvents that can be mentioned are linear or branched C such as ethanol and isopropanol.₂~ C₄Alkanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, and aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol. , As well as mixtures thereof. The expression "water-soluble solvent" is understood to refer to a compound that is liquid at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure (960 mm of mercury) and is at least 5% soluble in water under these conditions.

Anhydrous compositions (A) are anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or amphoteric ionic polymers or mixtures thereof; inorganic thickeners, especially fillers such as clay, talc; organic thickeners, especially , Anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymer-binding thickeners; antioxidants, penetrants; sequestrants; air fresheners; dispersants; film-forming agents; preservatives; opalescent agents, etc. Various auxiliary agents conventionally used in the lightening composition can also be included.

According to one embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises one or more stabilizing polymers. The stabilized polymer is preferably selected from cellulose polymers, in particular nonionic, cationic or anionic, preferably cationic cellulose ethers. These stabilized polymers may or may not be binding. Examples of the non-bonding cellulose ether include hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose. Examples of the binding cellulose ether include cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose.

According to another embodiment that can be optionally combined with the first embodiment, the anhydrous composition (A) is a direct oil-in-water soluble solvent emulsion.

The method is carried out using the composition (B) containing one or more oxidizing agents.

More specifically, the oxidants are hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, bromate or ferricianide of alkali metals, and peroxides such as alkali metal or alkaline earth metal persulfates, perbolates, peracids. And their precursors, as well as percarbonates.

This oxidant is advantageously composed specifically of hydrogen peroxide (hydrogen peroxide aqueous solution) as an aqueous solution, the titer of which is more specifically 1 to 40 volumes (0.3% to 12% H).₂O₂), And even more preferentially 5 to 40 capacities (1.5% to 12% H)₂O₂) May be in the range.

As a function of lightening to the desired degree, the composition (B) can also contain, in addition to hydrogen peroxide, an additional oxidizing agent preferably selected from the peroxide salt.

The composition (B) is generally an aqueous composition. The term "aqueous composition" refers to a composition within the scope of the present invention that comprises more than 20% by weight, preferably more than 30% by weight, and even more preferably more than 40% by weight.

The composition (B) can also contain one or more of the above water-soluble organic solvents. It can also contain one or more acidifying agents.

Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, ortholic acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid and sulfonic acids.

Generally, the pH of composition (B) is less than 7.

Finally, the composition (B) is in various forms, such as solutions, emulsions or gels.

The method of the present invention can be used by continuously applying the anhydrous composition (A) and the composition (B) in any order, not including intermediate rinsing.

According to another variant, the composition obtained by mixing the anhydrous composition (A) and the composition (B) at the time of use is applied to moisten or dry the keratin material. According to this embodiment, the mass ratio of the amounts of (A) / (B) to R2 is generally in the range of 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.2 to 2, and even better, 0.3 to 1.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention obtained after mixing the above-mentioned compositions (A) and (B) has a fat substance content of more than 20% by mass, preferably 25% by mass, after mixing. It is a composition that exceeds, and more preferably exceeds 30% by mass.

In addition, regardless of the variant used, the mixture present on the keratin material (obtained by the time-to-use mixture of (A) and (B) or their partial or total continuous application) will be present for a period of time. , Generally left for about 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 5 to 30 minutes.

The temperature through the method is conventionally room temperature (15 to 25 ° C) to 80 ° C, preferably room temperature to 60 ° C.

After treatment, the keratinous material is rinsed with water, optionally washed and then rinsed with water and then dried or left to dry.

Preferably, the keratin substance is human hair.

Finally, the present invention relates to a multi-compartment device comprising the above-mentioned anhydrous composition (A) in a first compartment and a composition (B) containing one or more oxidizing agents in a second compartment. (These compositions have already been described).

(Example) (Example 1) The following compositions are prepared.

<tables num="1"><img file="JP2010143922A_D0008.tif" /></tables>

At the time of use, composition A1 (directly oil-soluble solvent emulsion in water), 20 volumes of H₂O₂Is mixed with the same mass as the oxidizing aqueous composition (B) having a pH of 2.2.

The mixture is then applied to a bunch of natural chestnut-brown hair (color tones = 4). The bath ratio of the mixture / hair tress is 10/1 (g / g). The leaving time is 30 minutes at 27 ° C. After this time, the hair tress is rinsed, then washed with Elseve Multivitamin Shampoo, rinsed and dried.

(Example 2) The following compositions are prepared.

<tables num="2"><img file="JP2010143922A_D0009.tif" /></tables>

At the time of use, the composition A2, 20 volumes of H₂O₂Is mixed with the same mass as the oxidizing aqueous composition (B2) having a pH of 2.2.

The mixture is then applied to a bunch of natural chestnut-brown hair (color tones = 4). The bath ratio of the mixture / hair tress is 10/1 (g / g) respectively. The leaving time is 30 minutes at 27 ° C. After this time, the hair tress is rinsed, then washed with Elseve Multivitamin Shampoo, rinsed and dried.

result The emulsions A1 and A2 of the present invention do not give off an unpleasant odor even after being mixed with the oxidizing composition. Moreover, the level of lightening obtained by using the emulsion of the present invention is extremely acceptable and is the same level as that of the conventional ammonia-containing lightening composition. The dark blonde color obtained in both cases is less selective and indicates that the keratin fibers are uniformly colored.