Make-up method using a magnetic composition containing at least one tinting agent having optical properties which are sensitive to an external stimulus

ES 2 602 182 T3

DESCRIPTION

Make-up process by means of a magnetic composition comprising at least one interferential pigment

[0001] The present invention relates to a procedure for making up a support, natural such as the skin, appendages or lips, or artificial such as false nails, as well as a kit for the execution of this procedure.

[0002] There is a need to benefit from new aesthetic effects in the makeup domain, and the invention seeks to respond to this need.

[0003] EP 1 264 562 discloses a magnetic applicator associated with a product that can contain magnetic fibers or chips.

[0004] WO 02/28356 describes a composition comprising interference chips.

Makeup process

[0005] According to one of its aspects, the object of the invention is a process for making up keratin materials, particularly the skin, lips or appendages, which comprises the following steps:

- depositing on the support to be made up through a non-magnetic cosmetic applicator at least one cosmetic composition, this cosmetic composition which comprises:

- bodies exhibiting non-zero magnetic susceptibility and moving under the effect of a magnetic field,

- at least one interference pigment,

- at least partially exposing the composition to a magnetic field to modify the orientation and / or displace at least a part of the magnetic body, the magnetic field being applied to form at least one pattern on the composition.

[0006] The magnetic bodies can be different from the interference pigment or, alternatively, the interference pigment can constitute all or part of the magnetic bodies.

[0007] When magnetic bodies add color, a change in their orientation under the effect of the magnetic field can lead to a change in the appearance of the composition.

[0008] When the magnetic bodies are displaced, the shape of the composition deposit can be affected, which makes it possible to create a relief, for example.

[0009] During application of the composition, it may not be exposed to the magnetic field. The latter can be exercised once the application has been made.

The magnetic field can be applied to form at least one pattern on the composition, this being, for example, linked to the geometry of the field lines.

The invention thus makes it possible to create new make-up effects with a cosmetic composition, allowing for example to make patterns in relief or by conferring an impression of relief or various other patterns, geometric or not.

The magnetic field can also be applied to model the clarity and / or color of at least a region of the face or body on which the composition has been applied.

For example, when the cosmetic composition is a make-up base, the orientation of the magnetic body under the effect of the magnetic field makes it possible to modify the clarity of the composition and thus model the appearance of the face according to the regions exposed to the magnetic field, in particular, in order to make a make-up of the light / dark type, without abrupt transition, if desired, between the light regions and the dark regions.

The magnetic field can for example be applied to shade the sides of the face in order to make it appear thinner than it actually is.

In an exemplary embodiment of the invention, a layer of a second cosmetic composition is applied over the first, which contains the magnetic bodies, for example with the aim of obtaining a depth, shine, smoothing or other effect. .

This second composition can be transparent, colored or not.

The second composition is intended, for example, for application to the lips or nails.

The second composition can also be applied to the support before the first composition, for example to create a colored background or to improve the stability of the first composition and / or comfort.

ES 2 602 182 T3

[0015] The magnetic field can be applied until a fixed appearance of the composition containing the magnetic bodies is obtained, that is, the appearance of the composition stops evolving even though the magnetic field persists. Alternatively, the magnetic field can be applied for a duration less than that which causes the orientation and / or the definitive displacement of all the magnetic bodies in the exposed region.

[0016] When the clarity and / or color of the first composition progressively changes under the effect of the magnetic field, the user can stop subjecting the magnetic bodies to the field when the composition presents the desired appearance.

[0017] The magnetic field can be exerted successively on different regions of the support coated with the composition.

[0018] The magnetic field can be exerted on the disjointed regions of the support, in order for example to create separate patterns.

[0019] A region of the coated support of the composition may not be exposed to the magnetic field, so as not to modify in this region the appearance of the composition after being deposited.

Two regions of the support can be unevenly exposed to the magnetic field.

The composition can be applied in various ways through a non-magnetic cosmetic applicator, chosen for example from brushes, flexible tips and foams, fabrics, non-fabrics, brushes or combs.

[0022] In an exemplary embodiment of the invention, the composition is applied to the support through a perforated mask.

This can, for example, make it possible to produce a predetermined pattern, corresponding to the shape of the hole.

At least one region of the support coated by the composition can then be exposed to the magnetic field.

[0023] The composition can take on a state that prevents any new change in orientation of the magnetic bodies under the effect of a magnetic field after a determined drying time.

This is, for example, the case of an enamel.

The orientation of the magnetic bodies can also, in certain cases, be modified at any time, particularly when the first composition does not dry or has a very long drying time.

This can be the case, for example, of a makeup base.

[0024] Magnetic bodies can take various forms.

Magnetic bodies

[0025] The expression "magnetic bodies" is not to be understood in a limiting way and covers particles, fibers or agglomerates of particles and / or fibers, in any form, which have a non-zero magnetic susceptibility.

[0026] The concentration of magnetic bodies in the composition is comprised, for example, between approximately 0.05% and approximately 50% by mass, particularly between approximately 0.1% and approximately 40% by mass, better between approximately 1% and about 30% by mass.

The applied composition can contain magnetic fibers or other aspherical bodies, such as chains of particles or fibers.

[0028] Preferably, the magnetic bodies do not have remanent magnetization in the absence of a magnetic field.

[0029] Magnetic bodies can contain any magnetic material that has a sensitivity to the lines of a magnetic field, be it this field produced by a permanent magnet or derived from an induction, this material being, for example, chosen from nickel, cobalt , iron, its alloys and oxides, particularly Fe3O4, and also gadolinium, terbium, dysprosium, erbium, its alloys and oxides.

The magnetic material can be of the "soft" or "hard" type.

The magnetic material can in particular be soft iron.

Magnetic bodies may or may not have a multilayer structure, comprising at least one layer of a magnetic material, such as iron, nickel, cobalt, their alloys and oxides, particularly Fe3O4.

The magnetic bodies are preferably aspherical, having, for example, an elongated shape.

In this way, when these bodies are subjected to the magnetic field, they tend to orient themselves with their longitudinal axis.

ES 2 602 182 T3 in the alignment of the field lines, and undergo a change in orientation that results in a change in appearance of the composition.

When the magnetic bodies are substantially spherical particles, their appearance is preferably inhomogeneous, so that a change in orientation induces a change in appearance.

The dimension of the body, whatever its shape, is for example between 1 nm and 10 mm, better between 10 nm and 5 mm, better still between 100 nm and 1 mm, for example between 0.5 pm and 300 pm or 1 pm and 150 pm.

The dimension is that given by the statistical distribution to half the population, called D50.

When the bodies are particles that do not have an elongated shape or have an elongated shape with a rather weak shape factor, the dimension of the particles is, for example, less than 1 mm.

Magnetic bodies are, for example, magnetic pigments.

Magnetic pigments

[0036] Pigments that are particularly suitable are nacres comprising iron oxide Fe3Ü4.

Pigments with magnetic properties are, for example, those marketed under the trade names COLORONA BLACKSTAR BLUE, COLORONA BLACKSTAR GREEN, COLORONA BLACKSTAR GOLD, COLORONA BLACKSTAR RED, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE SUPER GREEN, MICRONA MATTE BLACK (17437), MICA BLACK (17260 ), COLORONA PATINA SILVER (17289) and COLORONA PATINA GOLD from MERCK or also FLAMENCO TWILIGHT RED, FLAMENCO TWILIGHT GREEN, FLAMENCO TWILIGHT GOLD, FLAMENCO TWILIGHT BLUE, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE SILVER 110 AB, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE GOLD 212 GB, TIMICA NU-ANTIQUE COPPER 340 AB, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE BRONZE 240 AB, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE GREEN 828 CB, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE BLUE 626 CB, GEMTONE MOONSTONE G 004, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE RED 424 CB, CHROMA-LITE BLACK (4498), CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE ROUGE FLAMBE (code 440 XB), CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE BRONZE (240 XB), CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE GOLD (222 CB) et CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE COPPER (340 XB) of the company ENGELHARD.

[0037] Also by way of example of a magnetic pigment capable of entering into the formulation of the composition, mention may be made of black iron oxide particles, for example those sold under the name SICOVIT noir E172 by the company BASF.

Magnetic pigments can also contain metal iron, particularly passivated soft iron, for example obtained from carbonyl iron by carrying out the process described in US patent 6 589 331, the content of which is incorporated by reference.

These particles may contain a layer of a surface oxide.

In particular, soft iron-based particles are marketed under the name STAPA® WM IRON VP 041040 by the company ECKART.

Magnetic fibers

The term "fibers" designates usually elongated bodies, which have, for example, a shape factor ranging from 3.5 to 2500 or from 5 to 500, for example from 5 to 150.

The shape factor is defined by the L / D ratio, where L is the length of the fiber and D is the diameter of the circle in which the largest cross section of the fiber is inscribed.

The cross section of the fibers can be inscribed, for example, in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 pm, for example ranging from 100 nm to 100 pm, even from 1 pm to 50 pm.

The fibers can have, for example, a length ranging from 1 pm to 10 mm, for example from 0.1 mm to 5 mm, even from 0.3 mm to 3.5 mm.

The fibers can have a mass ranging, for example, from 0.15 to 30 deniers (mass in gram for 9 km of yarn), for example from 0.18 to 18 deniers.

The cross-sectional shape of the fibers can be any, for example circular or polygonal, particularly square, hexagonal or octagonal.

[0045] The composition can contain full or hollow fibers, independent or linked to each other, for example braided.

The composition may contain fibers that have blunt and / or rounded ends, for example by polishing.

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The fibers may not see their shape substantially modified when they are introduced into the composition, being for example initially rectilinear and sufficiently rigid to retain their shape.

Alternatively, the fibers may have a flexibility that allows them to deform substantially within the composition.

The fibers can contain a non-zero content, which can go up to 100%, of a magnetic material chosen from soft magnetic materials, hard magnetic materials, particularly based on iron, zinc, nickel, cobalt or of manganese and its alloys and oxides, particularly Fe3O4, rare earths, barium sulfate, iron silicon alloys, possibly loaded with molybdenum, Cu2MnA1, MnBi, or a mixture of these, this list is not limiting.

When the composition includes fibers containing magnetic particles, the latter can be present, for example, at least on the surface of the fiber, even on the surface of the fibers only, within the fiber only or even be dispersed within of the fiber in a substantially homogeneous manner.

The fibers can contain, for example, a non-magnetic core with a plurality of magnetic particles on its surface.

The fibers can also contain a synthetic matrix that contains a plurality of magnetic grains dispersed therein.

[0052] In its case, a synthetic material charged with magnetic particles may itself be enveloped by a non-magnetic shell.

Such a crust constitutes, for example, a barrier that isolates the magnetic material (s) from the environment and / or can carry color.

The fibers can contain a monolithic magnetic core and be covered by a non-magnetic crust, or this can be the other way around.

The composition can contain fibers made by extrusion or coextrusion of one or more polymeric materials, particularly thermoplastics and / or elastomers.

One of the extruded materials may contain a charge of dispersed magnetic particles.

The fiber may contain a synthetic material chosen from polyamides, PET, acetates, polyolefins, particularly Pe or PP, PVC, amide block polyester, plasticized Rilsan®, elastomers, particularly polyester elastomers, PE elastomers, silicone elastomers, nitrile elastomers or a mixture of these materials, this list is not limiting.

[0055] The composition may contain composite fibers comprising a magnetic core at least partially wrapped by at least one non-magnetic, synthetic or natural material.

The cladding of the magnetic core can be made, for example, by coextrusion, around the core, of a shell of a non-magnetic material.

The coating of the core can also be carried out in another way, for example by polymerization in situ.

The core can be monolithic or contain a charge of magnetic grains dispersed in a matrix.

[0058] The composition can also contain composite fibers obtained by coating with a synthetic material, charged with magnetic particles, with a non-magnetic, synthetic or natural core, the core being composed, for example, of a wood fiber, rayon, polyamide, or a vegetable material, made of polyolefin, particularly of polyethylene, of Nylon®, of polyimide-amide, of ramida, this list is not limiting.

[0059] The composition can also contain magnetic composite particles, particularly a magnetic latex.

Magnetic Composite Particles

[0060] A magnetic composite particle is a composite material made up of an organic or mineral matrix and magnetic grains.

The magnetic composite particles can thus contain grains of a magnetic material on their surface and / or inside.

Composite particles can be made up of a magnetic core wrapped in an organic or mineral matrix , or vice versa.

[0061] Magnetic composite particles have, for example, one of the aforementioned magnetic materials.

ES 2 602 182 T3

The dimension of the magnetic composite particles is comprised for example between 1 nm and 1 mm, better between 100 nm and 500 μιτι, better still between 500 nm and 100 μιτι.

By "dimension", the dimension given by the statistical granulometric distribution to half of the population is designated, called D50.

[0063] The thesis of C. GOUBAULT, March 23, 2004, hereby incorporated by reference, refers in chapter 1 to the state of the art in the field of magnetic composite particles, and provides a list of preparation procedures that can be used to prepare the magnetic composite particles, namely a separate synthesis of the magnetic grains and matrix, a synthesis of the magnetic grains in contact with the matrix or a synthesis of the matrix in the presence of the magnetic grains.

[0064] The KISKER company markets magnetic particles composed of mineral matrix, composed of silica. The companies DYNAL, SERADYN, ESTAPOR and ADEMTECH propose magnetic particles composed of an organic matrix, which can also be used in the invention.

[0065] In a more particular way, the company ESTAPOR markets under the reference M1-070 / 60 magnetic latexes made up of ferrite grains uniformly distributed in a polystyrene matrix, this latex comprising 65% iron oxide, the average diameter of the polystyrene particles being 890 nm and the dry matter mass content of 10%.

Ferrofluid

The composition may contain a ferrofluid, that is to say a stable colloidal suspension of magnetic particles, particularly of magnetic nanoparticles.

[0067] The particles, of a size for example about a few tens of nanometers, are dispersed in a solvent (water, oil, organic solvent), either with the aid of a surfactant or a dispersing agent, either through electrostatic interactions.

Ferrofluids are prepared, for example, by grinding ferrites or other magnetic particles until nanoparticles are acquired, which are then dispersed in a fluid containing a surfactant, which adsorbs on the particles and stabilizes them, or by precipitation in a basic medium of a solution of metal ions.

Each particle of the ferrofluid has a magnetic moment determined by the size of the particle and by the nature of the magnetic material.

[0070] Under the action of a magnetic field, the magnetic moments of the particles tend to align themselves along the field lines, with the appearance of a non-zero magnetization in the liquid.

If the field is canceled, there is no hysteresis and the magnetization is canceled.

Beyond a threshold field value, macroscopic changes can also be caused in the liquid, for example the appearance of peaks or a modification of the rheological properties.

[0072] The designation "ferrofluid" also encompasses an emulsion of ferrofluid droplets in a solvent.

Each drop therefore contains colloidal magnetic particles in stable suspension.

This makes it possible to have a ferrofluid in all types of solvent.

The size of the magnetic particles suspended in the ferrofluid is, for example, between 1 nm and 10 μιτι, better between 1 nm and 1 μιτι, better still between 1 nm and 100 nm.

By "dimension", the dimension given by the statistical granulometric distribution to half of the population is designated, called D50.

[0073] The ferrofluids marketed by the company LIQUIDS RESEARCH LTD may be particularly mentioned under the references:

• WHKS1S9 (AB or C), which is a water-based ferrofluid comprising magnetite (Fe3O4), with 10 nm diameter particles.

• WHJS1 (AB or C), which is a ferrofluid based on isoparaffin and magnetite particles (Fe3O4) with a diameter of 10 nm.

• BKS25_dextran, which is a dextran-stabilized water-based ferrofluid, comprising magnetite (Fe3O4) particles of 9 nm in diameter.

Strings of magnetic particles and / or fibers

The composition can contain agglomerates of particles or fibers whose greatest dimension, for example the length, is for example between 1 nm and 10 mm, for example between 10 nm and 5 mm, or between 100 nm and 1

ES 2 602 182 T3 mm, or even between 0.5 μιτι and 3.5 mm, for example between 1 pm and 150 pm.

The dimension designates that given by the statistical granulometric distribution in half of the population, called D50.

[0075] Magnetic particle chains can be obtained for example by assembling colloidal magnetic particles, as described in the publications "Permanently linked monodisperse paramagnetic chains", EM Furst, C. Suzuki, M. Fermigier, AP. Gast, Langmuir, 14, 7334-7336 (1998), "Suspensions de particules magnétiques", M. Fermigier, Y. Grasselli, SFP Bulletin (105) July 96, and "Flexible magnetic filaments as micromechanical sensors", C. Goubault, P. Jop, M. Fermigier, J. Baudry, E. Bertrand, J. Bibette, Phys. Rev. Lett., 91,26, 260802-1 to 260802-4 (2003), the contents of which are incorporated by reference.

These articles describe in particular how to proceed to obtain the chains of magnetic latex particles that comprise a polystyrene matrix with surface-functionalized iron oxide grains, permanently bonded to each other following a chemical reaction, particularly the covalent bonds between the surfaces of adjacent particles; A method for acquiring ferrofluid emulsion droplet chains, linked together by interactions of a physical nature, is also described.

The length, as well as the diameter of the permanent chains thus obtained, can be controlled.

Such magnetic chains constitute anisotropic magnetic objects that are orientable and movable under the effect of a magnetic field.

[0077] The dimensions of the magnetic chains can respond to the same conditions as the magnetic fibers.

Interferential pigment

[0078] According to one aspect of the invention, the composition includes at least one interferential pigment.

The expression "interferential pigment" designates a pigment capable of producing a color by means of an interference phenomenon, for example between the light reflected by a plurality of superimposed layers of different refractive indices, particularly a succession of layers of refractive indices. Ups and downs.

The interferential pigment can be in a mass proportion, within the composition, ranging from 0.1% to 75%, better from 0.5% to 70%.

[0081] The proportion may, for example, be more important in an eye shadow than in an enamel.

[0082] An interference pigment can, for example, contain more than four layers of different refractive indices.

The layers of the interferential pigment may or may not surround a core, which may or may not have a flattened shape.

[0084] Mother-of-pearl are examples of interference pigments.

Mother-of-pearl

By "mother-of-pearl", we must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, particularly produced by certain mollusks in their shells or synthesized and which have a color effect due to optical interference.

The nacres can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, bismuth oxychloride coated mica, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic colorant particularly of the aforementioned type as well as the pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

It can also be mica particles on the surface which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring matters.

[0087] The nacres can, more particularly, have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.

By way of illustration, of the nacres that can be introduced as an interferential pigment in the first composition, mention may be made in particular of the gold-colored nacres, particularly marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C ( Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl, particularly commercialized by the

ES 2 602 182 T3 company MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) et Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres particularly marketed by the ENGELHARD company under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the MERCK company under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the nacres of brown color, particularly marketed by the ENGELHARD company under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the mother-of-pearl with a copper reflection, particularly marketed by the ENGELHARD company under the name Copper 340A (Timica); mother-of-pearl with a red reflection, particularly marketed by the MERCK company under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); pearls with a yellow reflection, particularly marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold reflection, particularly marketed by the ENGELHARD company under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres particularly marketed by the ENGELHARD company under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black mother-of-pearl with a gold reflection, particularly marketed by the ENGELHARD company under the name Nu Antique Bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue mother-of-pearl, particularly marketed by the MERCK company under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), the white mother-of-pearl with a silver reflection, particularly marketed by the MERCK company under the name Xirona Silver, and the orange-red-gold-green mother-of-pearl particularly marketed by the MERCK company under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

At least one of the layers of the interferential pigment can contain a magnetic material, which can give the pigment a non-zero magnetic susceptibility. At least a part, even all, of the magnetic bodies can be constituted by particles of the interference pigment.

[0090] As examples of interference pigments exhibiting non-zero magnetic susceptibility, mention may be made of certain nacres containing iron oxide Fe3O4.

[0091] Interferential pigments that have magnetic properties are, for example, those marketed under the trade names OLORONA BLACKSTAR BLUE, COLORONA BlACKSTAR GREEN, COLORONA BLACKSTAR GOLD, COLORONA BLACKSTAR RED, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE SUPER GREEN, MICRONA MATTE BLACK (17437), MICA BLACK (17260), COLORONA PATINA SILVER (17289) and COLORONA PATINA GOLD (117288) from MERCKo also FLAMENCO TWILIGHT RED, FLAMENCO TWILIGHT GREEN, FLAMENCO TWILIGHT GOLD, FLAMENCO TWILIGHT BLUE, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE SILVER 110 AB, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE GOLD 212 GB, TIMICA NU-ANTIQUE COPPER 340 AB, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE BRONZE 240 AB, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE GREEN 828 CB, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE BLUE 626 CB, GEMTONE MOONSTONE G 004, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE RED 424 CB, CHROMA-LITE BLACK (4498), CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE ROUGE FLAMBE (code 440 XB), CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE BRONZE (240 XB), CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE GOLD (222 CB) and CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE COPPER (340 XB) from ENGELHARD.

The interferential pigment can be a goniochromatic pigment, which can have magnetic properties, as appropriate.

Interferential reflective particles

[0093] These particles can be selected from among particles with a synthetic substrate wrapped at least partially with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, chosen for example from oxides of titanium, particularly TiO2, of iron, particularly Fe2O3 , tin, chromium, barium sulfate and the following materials: MgF2, CrF₃, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO2, AÍ2O₃, MgO, Y2O₃, SeO₃, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2; Nb2O0s, Ta2O5, MoS2 and their mixtures or alloys.

As an example of such particles, mention may be made, for example, of particles comprising a substrate of synthetic mica coated with titanium dioxide, or glass particles coated with brown iron oxide, titanium oxide, tin oxide or one of its mixtures such as those sold under the REFLECKS® brand by the ENGELHARD company.

Goniochromatic pigment

[0095] By "goniochromatic pigment", in the sense of the present invention is meant a pigment that makes it possible to obtain, when the composition is spread on a support, a color path in the a * b * plane of the CIE 1976 colorimetric space that corresponds to a variation Dh ° of the color angle h ° of at least 20 ° when the angle of observation is varied with respect to the normal between 0 ° and 80 °, for an angle of obliquity of the light of 45 °.

[0096] The color path can be measured for example through a spectrogonioreflectometer of the INStRuMENT SYSTEMS brand and of the GoN 360 GONIOMETER reference, after the first composition has

ES 2 602 182 T3 was spread in the fluid state with a thickness of 300 pm through an automatic spreading machine on a contrast card made by ERICHSEN and reference Typ 24/5, the measurement being carried out on the black background of the card.

The goniochromatic pigment can be chosen, for example, from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

[0098] In the case of a multilayer structure, it can contain for example at least two layers, each layer being made for example from at least one material chosen from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2Ü3, Pt, Va, Al2Ü3, MgO, Y2O3, S2O3, SiO, HfO2, ZrÜ2, CeÜ2, Nb2Ü5, Ta2O5, TiO2, Ag, Al, al, Cu, Rb, si, tu, W, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their associations.

The multilayer structure may or may not have, with respect to a central layer, a symmetry at the level of the chemical nature of the stacked layers.

Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained.

[0100] Examples of symmetric interferential multilayer structures are for example the following structures: Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, a pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company bAsF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxyde / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2, the pigments that have these structures being marketed under the name XIRONA by the company MERCK (Darmstadt).

[0101] Liquid crystal coloring agents comprise, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted.

As goniochromatic particles of liquid crystals, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by the company CHENIX as well as those sold under the name HELICONE® Hc by the company WACKER.

[0102] As goniochromatic pigment, certain nacres, pigments with effects on synthetic substrate, particularly substrate type alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide, aluminum, or interference chips extracted from a polyterephthalate film can also be used.

[0103] The material may also contain dispersed goniochromatic fibers.

Such fibers may have a length of less than 80 µm, for example.

[0104] The composition containing the magnetic bodies can contain at least one diffraction pigment.

Diffraction pigment

[0105] By "diffraction pigment" is meant in the sense of the present invention a pigment capable of producing a color variation according to the angle of observation when illuminated by white light, due to the presence of a structure that diffracts the light.

Such a pigment is also sometimes called a holographic or rainbow effect pigment.

[0106] A diffraction pigment may contain a diffraction grating, capable for example of diffraction in defined directions an incident monochromatic light beam.

[0107] The diffraction grating may contain a periodic pattern, particularly a line, the distance between two adjacent patterns being of the same order of magnitude as the wavelength of the incidental light.

[0108] When the incidental light is polychromatic, the diffraction grating separates the different spectral components of the light and produces a rainbow effect.

[0109] In relation to the structure of diffraction pigments, one may usefully refer to the article "Pigments Exhibiting Diffractive Effects" by Alberto Argoitia and Matt Witzman, 2002, Society of Vacuum coaters, 45th Annual Technical Conference Proceedings 2002, the content of which is incorporated by reference.

[0110] The diffraction pigment can be made with patterns that have different profiles, particularly triangular, symmetrical or not, in battlements, of constant width or not, sinusoidal, ladder.

[0111] The spatial frequency of the lattice and the depth of the motifs will be selected depending on the degree of separation of the different desired orders.

The frequency can vary for example between 500 and 3000 lines per mm.

[0112] Preferably, the diffraction pigment particles each have a flattened shape, and are particularly plate-shaped.

ES 2 602 182 T3

[0113] The same pigment particle can contain two crossed diffraction gratings, perpendicular or not, of the same line or not.

[0114] The diffraction pigment can have a multilayer structure comprising a layer of a reflective material, covered at least on one side by a layer of a dielectric material.

The latter can confer better stiffness and durability to the diffraction pigment.

The dielectric material can then be chosen for example from the following materials: MgF2, SiO2, A2O3, AlF3, CeF3, LaF3, NdF3, SmF2, BaF2, CaF2, LiF and their associations.

The reflective material can be chosen, for example, from metals and their alloys and also from non-metallic reflective materials.

Among the metals that can be used, we can mention Al, Ag, Cu, al, Pt, Sn, si, Pd, Ni, Co, Rd, Nb, Cr, Fe and their materials, associations, alloys and their contamination with earth rare.

[0115] Such a reflective material can, by itself, constitute the diffraction pigment which will then be monolayer.

[0116] Alternatively, the diffraction pigment may contain a multilayer structure comprising a core of a dielectric material covered with a reflective layer at least on one side, even completely encapsulating the core.

A layer of a dielectric material can also cover the reflective layer (s).

The dielectric material used is then preferably inorganic, and can be chosen, for example, from metal fluorides, metal oxides, metal sulfides, metal nitrides, metal carbides and their associations.

The dielectric material can be in a crystalline, semi-crystalline or amorphous state.

The dielectric material, in this configuration, can for example be chosen from the following materials: MgF2, SiO, SiO2, AJ2O3, TiO2, WO, AN, BN, B4C, WC, TiC, TiN, N4SÍ3, ZnS, glass particles , diamond-like carbons and their associations.

[0117] At the same time, the diffraction pigment may be composed of a preformed ceramic or dielectric material such as a natural sheet mineral, for example peroskovite mica or talc, or synthetic sheets formed from glass, alumina, SiO2, carbon, an iron oxide / mica, BN-coated mica, BC, graphite, bismuth oxychloride, and their associations.

[0118] Instead of a layer of a dielectric material, other materials that improve mechanical properties may be suitable.

Such materials may contain silicone, metal silicides, semiconductor materials formed from Group III, IV, and V elements, metals having a centered cubic crystal structure, cermet compositions or materials, semiconductor glasses, and their various associations.

[0119] The diffraction pigment used can in particular be chosen from among those described in the American patent application US 2003/0031870 published on February 13, 2003.

[0120] A diffraction pigment may contain, for example, the following structure: MgF2 / Al / MgF2, a diffraction pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment SILVER by the company FLEX PRODUCTS, or SPECTRAFLAR 1400 Pigment SILVER FG.

The proportion by weight of MgF2 can be comprised between 80 and 95% of the total weight of the pigment.

[0121] Other diffraction pigments are marketed under the names Metalure® Prismatic by the company ECKART®.

[0122] Other possible structures are Fe / A / Fe or A / Fe / A, which have zero magnetic susceptibility.

[0123] The amount of diffraction pigment can vary, by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition, for example from 0.1 to 5%.

[0124] The dimension of the diffraction pigment can be comprised for example between 5 and 200 pm, better between 5 and 100 pm, for example between 5 and 30 pm.

[0125] The thickness of the diffraction pigment particles can be less than or equal to 3 pm, better 2 pm, for example of the order of 1 pm.

Other coloring agents

[0126] The composition may contain at least one coloring agent that produces light by absorbing at least a part of the visible spectrum.

[0127] One such coloring agent that produces a color by an absorption phenomenon can be constituted by

ES 2 602 182 T3 a magnetic or not, organic or inorganic or hybrid pigment comprising both organic matter and inorganic matter.

[0128] The coloring agent may or may not be a particulate compound.

[0129] Where appropriate, the particles of the same magnetic pigment constitute both the coloring agent that produces the color by an absorption phenomenon and the magnetic bodies.

[0130] When the coloring agent includes a colorant, this can be chosen from fat-soluble and water-soluble colorants.

[0131] Fat-soluble dyes are for example Sudan red, DC RED 17, DC GREEN 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Vilet 2, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow.

[0132] Water-soluble dyes are for example beet juice and methylene blue.

[0133] The colorants can for example represent 0.1 to 20% of the weight of the first or second composition, even 0.1 to 6%, when they are present.

[0134] The coloring agent can also be a lacquer or an organic pigment chosen from the following materials and their mixtures:

- cochineal carmine,

- the organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthenic, pyrene, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluoran,

- organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, of acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthenic, pyrene, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluorane, these dyes can contain at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.

[0135] Among the organic pigments, mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D&C Blue # 4, D&C Brown # 1, D&C Green # 5, D&C Green # 6, D&C Orange # 4, D&C Orange # 5, D&C Orange # 10, D&C Orange # 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red # 33, D&C Red # 34, D&C Red # 36, D&C Violet # 2, D&C Yellow # 7, D&C Yellow # 8, D&C Yellow # 10, D&C Yellow # 11, FD&C Blue # 1, FD&C Green # 3, FD&C Red # 40, FD&C Yellow # 5, FD&C Yellow # 6.

[0136] The coloring agent can be an organic lacquer supported by an organic support such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example.

[0137] Among the organic lacquers, mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D&C Red # 2 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 3 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 6 Barium lake, D&C Red # 6 Barium / Strontium lake, D&C Red no.6 Strontium lake, D&C Red no.6 Potassium lake, D&C Red no.7 Aluminum lake, D&C Red no.7 Barium lake, D&C Red no.7 Calcium lake, D&C Red no.7 Calcium / Strontium lake, D&C Red # 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red # 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red # 9 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 9 Barium lake, D&C Red # 9 Barium / Strontium lake, D&C Red # 9 Zirconium lake, D&C Red # 10 Sodium lake, D&C Red # 19 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 19 Barium lake, D&C Red # 19 Zirconium lake, D&C Red # 21 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 21 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n ° 22 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 27 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium lake, D&C Red n ° 27 Barium lake, D&C Red n ° 27 Calcium lake, D&C Red n ° 27 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n ° 28 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 30 lake, D&C Red n ° 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red # 33 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red # 36 lake, D&C Red # 40 Aluminum lake, D&C Blue # 1 Aluminum lake, D&C Green # 3 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange # 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange # 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Orange # 10 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange # 17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow # 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow # 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow n ° 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow n ° 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow n ° 10 Aluminum lake, FD&C Blue n ° 1 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red n ° 4 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red n ° 40 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow n ° 5 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow n ° 6 Aluminum lake.

[0138] The chemical materials corresponding to each of the previously mentioned organic coloring matters are mentioned in the work "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 1997 Edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association ", the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference.

[0139] The composition may contain a composite pigment, comprising a core at least partially enveloped by a shell.

Compound pigments

ES 2 602 182 T3

[0140] A composite pigment can be particularly composed of particles comprising:

- an inorganic core,

- at least one at least partial coating of at least one organic coloring matter.

[0141] At least one binder can advantageously contribute to the fixation of the organic coloring matter on the inorganic core.

[0142] Composite pigment particles can have various shapes.

These particles can be particularly plate-shaped or globular, in particular spherical, and be hollow or solid. By "plate-shaped" is meant particles whose ratio of greatest dimension to thickness is greater than or equal to 5.

[0143] A composite pigment can have, for example, a specific surface area between 1 and 1000 μm²/ g, particularly between 10 and 600 m²/ g approximately, and in particular between 20 and 400 m²/ g approximately. The specific surface is the value measured by the BET method.

[0144] The mass proportion of the core can exceed 50% with respect to the total weight of the composite pigment, for example 50% to 70%, for example 60% to 70%.

[0145] The composite pigment can be different from an interference pigment as described for example in US Pat. No. 6,428,773.

An interferential pigment includes, for example, several layers of constant thickness of materials selected to be able to produce the optical interferences.

[0146] The C * saturation of the composite pigment can be greater than or equal to 30, measured according to the protocol below.

Composite pigment saturation measurement protocol:

[0147] The a * and b * values ​​in the CIE L * a * b * space of the composite pigment are measured as follows:

The pure composite pigment is compacted into a rectangular cup having the dimensions 2 x 1.5 cm and a depth of 3 mm, applying a pressure of 100 bar.

[0148] The a * and b * values ​​of the compacted pigment are measured with a MINOLTA 3700d spectrophotometer, in specular excluded mode, under illuminant D65, medium aperture.

Saturation is given by C * = (a *² + b *²)^1Z.

Inorganic core

[0149] The inorganic core can be of any convenient shape for the fixation of particles of organic coloring matter, for example spherical, globular, granular, polyhedral, acicular, fusiform, flattened in the shape of a flake, rice grain, shell, like a combination of these forms, this list is not limiting.

[0150] Preferably, the ratio of the largest dimension of the core to its smallest dimension is between 1 and 50.

[0151] The inorganic nucleus can have a mean size between approximately 1 nm and approximately 100 nm, even between approximately 5 nm and approximately 75 nm, for example between approximately 10 nm and approximately 50 nm, particularly 20 or 25 nm.

[0152] By "mean size", the dimension given by the statistical granulometric distribution in half of the population is designated, called D50.

The mean size can be a number mean size determined by image analysis (electron microscopy).

[0153] The inorganic core can have a refractive index greater than or equal to 2, even greater than or equal to 2.1, for example greater than or equal to 2.2.

[0154] The inorganic core can be made of a magnetic material or not chosen from the non-limiting list that includes metallic salts and metallic oxides, particularly oxides of titanium, zirconium, cerium, zinc, iron, blue ferric, aluminum and chromium, aluminas, glasses, ceramics, graphite, silicas, silicates, particularly aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica, and their mixtures.

[0155] Oxides of titanium, particularly TiO2, of iron, particularly Fe2O₃Of cerium, zinc and aluminum, silicates, particularly aluminosilicates and borosilicates are particularly suitable.

ES 2 602 182 T3

[0156] The inorganic core can have a specific surface area, measured by the BET method, comprised for example between approximately 1 m²/ g and about 1000 m²/ g, better between about 10 m²/ g and about 600 m²/ g, for example between approximately 20 m²/ g and approximately 400 m²/ g.

[0157] The inorganic core can be colored, if necessary.

Organic coloring matter

[0158] The organic coloring matter can contain for example at least one organic pigment, for example at least one organic lacquer.

[0159] The organic coloring matter can be chosen for example from particulate compounds insoluble in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition.

[0160] The organic coloring matter can contain, for example, pigments, for example organic lacquers or other organic coloring matters, which can be chosen from the following compounds and their mixtures:

- cochineal carmine,

- the organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthenic, pyrene, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluoran,

- organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, of acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthenic, pyrene, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluorane, these dyes can contain at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.

[0161] Among the organic pigments, mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D&C Blue # 4, D&C Brown # 1, D&C Green # 5, D&C Green # 6, D&C Orange # 4, D&C Orange # 5, D&C Orange # 10, D&C Orange # 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red # 33, D&C Red # 34, D&C Red # 36, D&C Violet # 2, D&C Yellow # 7, D&C Yellow # 8, D&C Yellow # 10, D&C Yellow # 11, FD&C Blue # 1, FD&C Green # 3, FD&C Red # 40, FD&C Yellow # 5, FD&C Yellow # 6.

[0162] The organic coloring matter can contain an organic lacquer supported by an organic support such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example.

[0163] Among the organic lacquers, mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D&C Red # 2 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 3 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 6 Barium lake, D&C Red # 6 Barium / Strontium lake, D&C Red # 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red # 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red # 7 Auminium lake, D&C Red # 7 Barium lake, D&C Red # 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red # 7 Calcium / Strontium lake, D&C Red # 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red # 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red # 9 Auminium lake, D&C Red # 9 Barium lake, D&C Red # 9 Barium / Strontium lake, D&C Red # 9 Zirconium lake, D&C Red # 10 Sodium lake, D&C Red # 19 Auminium lake, D&C Red # 19 Barium lake, D&C Red # 19 Zirconium lake, D&C Red # 21 Auminium lake, D&C Red n ° 21 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n ° 22 Auminium lake, D&C Red n ° 27 Auminium lake, D&C Red n ° 27 Auminium / Titanium / Zirconium lake, D&C Red n ° 27 Barium lake, D&C Red n ° 27 Calcium lake, D&C Red # 27 Zirconium lake, D&C Red # 28 Auminium lake, D&C Red # 30 lake, D&C Red # 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red # 33 Auminium lake, D&C Red # 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red # 36 lake, D&C Red # 40 Auminium lake, D&C Blue # 1 Aluminum lake, D&C Green # 3 Auminium lake, D&C Orange # 4 Auminium lake, D&C Orange n 5 Auminium lake, D&C Orange no 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Orange no 10 Auminium lake, D&C Orange no 17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow no 5 Auminium lake, D&C Yellow no 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow no 6 Auminium lake, D&C Yellow n ° 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow n ° 10 Auminium lake, FD&C Blue n ° 1 Auminium lake, FD&C Red n ° 4 Auminium lake, FD&C Red n ° 40 Auminium lake, FD&C Yellow n ° 5 Auminium lake, FD&C Yellow n ° 6 Auminium lake.

[0164] The chemical compounds corresponding to each of the previously mentioned organic coloring matters are mentioned in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 1997 Edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association ", the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference.

[0165] The mass ratio of organic coloring matter can be between about 10 parts and about 500 parts by weight for 100 parts of the inorganic core, even between about 20 parts and about 250 parts by weight, for example between about 40 parts and about 125 parts by weight for 100 parts of the inorganic core.

[0166] The total content of organic coloring matter in the composition, derived from the composite pigment and other optional pigments, can be, for example, less than 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

ES 2 602 182 T3

[0167] The proportion of the organic coloring matter can exceed 30% with respect to the total weight of the composite pigment, for example from 30 to 50%, for example from 30 to 40%.

Binder

[0168] The binder of the composite pigment can be of any type that allows the organic coloring matter to adhere to the surface of the inorganic core.

[0169] The binder may in particular be chosen from a non-limiting list comprising silicone compounds, polymeric, oligomeric or similar compounds, and in particular from organosilanes, fluoroalkylated organosilanes and polysiloxanes, for example polymethylhydrogenosiloxane , as well as various binding agents, such as silane, titanate, aluminate, dezirconates-based binding agents and mixtures thereof.

[0170] The silicone compound can be chosen from a non-limiting list that includes in particular: organosilanes (1) obtained from alkoxysilanes, polysiloxanes (2) modified or not chosen from a non-limiting list that includes:

modified polysiloxanes (2A) that comprise at least one radical chosen from, in particular, polyethers, polyesters and epoxy compounds (these will be called "modified polysiloxanes"), polysiloxanes (2B) that carry on a silicon atom located at the end of the polymer at least one group chosen from a non-limiting list comprising carboxylic acids, alcohols or hydroxy groups, and the fluoroalkylated organosilane compounds (3) obtained from fluoroalkylsilanes.

[0171] Organosilane compounds (1) can be obtained from Nano alkoxy compounds represented by formula (I):

R¹aS, X4-a (I) in which:

R¹ Represents ΟβΗδ-, (CH₃) 2 CH-CH2- or a radical of the type Cb H2bti- (where b varies from 1 to 18),

X represents CH₃O- or C2H5O-, it already varies from 0 to 3.

[0172] Specific examples of alkoxysilane compounds can include alkoxysilanes chosen from: methyltrimethoxyslane, dimethyldiethoxyNano, phenyltrlethioxlslanne, diphenyldiethoxyNano, methyltrimethoxyNano, dimethyldimethoxyNano, phenyltrimethoxyNano, diphenyldimethoxyNano, sobutyltrimethoxysilane, methyltrimethoxysilane, especially decyltrimethoxysilane, denyltrimethyl ethoxy, and the like dimethyldimethoxysilane, l'isobutyltrimethoxysilane, and even better methyldimethoxysilane, methyltrimethoxysilane, tenItrletoxy Nano.

[0173] The polysiloxanes (2) can respond in particular to the formula (II):

<img file="ES2602182T3_D0001.tif" />

d in which R² represents Ho CH₃-yd ranges from 15 to 450.

[0174] Among these polysiloxanes, those for which R² represents H are preferred.

[0175] The modified polysiloxanes (2A) can respond in particular to the following formulas: (a1) modified polysiloxanes bearing polyethers, represented by the formula (III)

ES 2 602 182 T3

<img file="ES2602182T3_D0002.tif" />

(ΙΠ)

O — j-CH-j — R⁵R⁴ in which R³ represents - (CH2) h-; R⁴ represents - (CH2) ¡; CH₃; R⁵ represents -OH, -COOH, -CH = CH2, -C (CH3) = CH2 or - (CH2) j-CH3; R⁶ represents - (CH2) k- CH₃; g and h varying independently from 1 to 15; j and k independently varying from 0 to 15; e varying from 1 to 50 and f varying from 1 to 300, (a²) modified polysiloxanes bearing polyesters, represented by formula (IV):

CH

CH - Si-0 ³ I CH

<img file="ES2602182T3_D0003.tif" />

(IV)

O — Hc-R^LC \ II II oo \ W o — R — ol-R in which R⁷, R⁸and R⁹ Independently represent - (CH2) q; R¹⁰ represents -OH; -COOH, -CH = CH2; C (CH₃) = CH2 or -CH₂) r- CH₃; R¹¹ represents - (CH₂) s- CH₃; nyq varying Independently from 1 to 15, r and s varying Independently from 0 to 15; e varying from 1 to 50 and f varying from 1 to 300, (a3) ​​modified polysiloxanes bearing epoxy radicals represented by the formula (V):

CH

I '

CH — si-0 CH

V

Yes — O — A ¹²

R Λ / t \

Ó — CH—

CH \ CH l ² 1 i ^!-Yes — oj — Yes ^CH3 / 'CH / ll 3 —CH — CH \: ²

CH (V) in which R¹² represents - (CH₂) v-; v ranging from 1 to 15; t varying from 1 to 50 and u varying from 1 to 300; or their mixtures.

Among the modified polysiloxanes (2A), modified polysiloxanes bearing polethers of formula (III) are preferred. The polysiloxanes modified on the terminal part (2B) can respond to the formula (VI):

<img file="ES2602182T3_D0004.tif" />

yes — οι

CH

CH r U.³ „

Yes — Q — Yes — R

CH

CH (VI) in which R¹³ and R¹⁴ can represent -OH, R^1S-OH or R¹⁷-COOH, independently of each other; R¹⁵represents -CH3 or -CeHs; R¹⁶ and R¹⁷ represent - (CH2) and-; and ranging from 1 to 15; w varying from 1 to 200 and x varying from 0 to 100.

[0176] Among these polysiloxanes modified on at least one end, those that carry at least the radical (R¹⁶

ES 2 602 182 T3 and / or R¹⁷) bearing a carboxylic acidic grouping on at least one terminal silicon atom are more preferred.

[0177] Fluoroalkylated organosilane compounds (3) can be obtained from fluoroalkylsilanes represented by the formula (VII):

CF3 (CF2) zCH2CH2 (R¹⁸) aSiX4-a (VI I) in which:

- R¹⁸ Represents CH3-, C2H5-, CH3O- or C2H5O-,

- X represents CH3O- or C2H5O-,

- Z ranges from 0 to 15 and already ranges from 0 to 3.

[0178] The fluoroalkylsilanes may particularly be selected from a non-limiting list especially comprising ltrimetoxis i Lano trifluoropropi, the tridecafluorooctiltrimetoxisilano, the heptadecafluorodeciltrimetoxisilano, the heptadecafluorodecilmetildimetoxisilano, the trifluoropropiltrietoxisilano, the tridecafluorooctiltrietoxisilano, the heptadecafluorodeciltrietoXsilano, the heptadecafluorodecilmetildietoxisilano and the like, particularly trifluoropropyltrimethoxysilane , tridecafluorooctyltrimethoxysilane and heptadecafluorodecyltrimethoxysilane, and even better trifluoropropyl trimethoxysilane and tridecafluorooctyltrimethoxysilane.

[0179] The silane-based binding agents can be chosen from a non-limiting list that includes particularly vinyl trimethoxysilane, vinyltriethoxysilane, γ-aminopropyl-triethoxysilane, γ-glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane, γ-mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane, γ-mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, N - ^ (aminoethyl) y-aminopropyltrimethoxysilane, γ-glycidoxypropylmethyldimethoxysilane, γ-chloropropyltrimethoxysilane and the like.

[0180] Titanate-based binding agents can be chosen from the list comprising isopropyl stearoyl titanate, isopropyltris titanate (dioctylpyrophosphate), isopropyltri (n-aminoethyl-aminoethyl) titanate, tetraoctylbis (ditridecylphosphate) titanate , tetra (2,2-diaryloxymethyl-1-butyl) bis (ditridecyl) phosphate titanate, bis (dioctyl pyrophosphate) oxyacetate titanate, bis (dioctyl pyrophosphate) ethylene titanate and the like.

[0181] The aluminate-based binding agents can be chosen from aectoalkoxyaluminum diisopropylate, aluminum diisopropoxymonoethylacetoacetate, aluminum triethylacetoacetate, aluminum triacetylacetonate and the like.

[0182] The zirconate-based binding agents can be chosen from a list that particularly comprises zirconium tetraquisacetylacetonate, zirconium dibutoxybisacetylacetonate, zirconium tetrakisetylacetoacetate, zirconium tributoxymonoethylacetoacetate, zirconium tributoxyacetylacetonate and the like.

[0183] The compounds that serve as binder can in particular have a molar mass that can vary between 300 and 100,000.

[0184] In order to obtain a layer covering the inorganic cores uniformly, the binder is preferably in a liquid state or soluble in water or in different solvents.

[0185] The amount of binder can vary from 0.01 to 15%, particularly from 0.02 to 12.5% ​​and in particular from 0.03 to 10% by weight (calculated with respect to C or Si) with respect to weight of particles comprising the core and the binder.

For further details on how to calculate the relative amount of the binder, reference may be made to application EP 1 184 426 A2.

The relative proportion of binder can be less than or equal to 5%, for example less than or equal to 3%, relative to the total weight of the composite pigment.

Compound Pigment Preparation

[0186] The composite pigment can be prepared by any appropriate procedure, for example a mechanochemical procedure or a solution precipitation procedure, with dissolution of the organic coloring matter and then precipitation to the surface of the core.

[0187] A binder may or may not be used.

[0188] A process comprising a mechanical mixing of an organic pigment and the inorganic core is preferred.

[0189] A binder can be added and mixed to the inorganic core before the introduction of the organic coloring matter.

[0190] The composite pigment can be made, for example, by one of the procedures described in

ES 2 602 182 T3 European patent applications EP 1 184 426 and EP 1 217 046, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference, advantageously by the procedure described in application Ep 1 184 426.

[0191] In an exemplary embodiment, one begins by mixing the particles intended to constitute the inorganic core with the binder.

[0192] So that the binder adheres uniformly to the surface of the inorganic core, it is preferable to pass these particles through a grinder beforehand, to deagglomerate them.

[0193] Mixing and stirring conditions are selected such that the core is uniformly coated with binder.

These conditions can be controlled so that the linear load is comprised between 19.6 and 19160 N / cm, in particular between 98 and 14170 N / cm and better between 147 and 980 N / cm; the treatment time is particularly between 5 min and 24 hours and better from 10 min to 20 hours; the speed of rotation can be between 2 and 1000 trs / min, in particular between 5 and 1000 trs / min and better still between 10 and 800 trs / min.

[0194] After the binder has coated the inorganic core, the organic coloring matter is added and mixed with stirring to adhere to the binder layer.

[0195] The methods of addition can be for example a bulk, continuous, or small amount addition.

[0196] Mixing and agitation, either the inorganic cores with the binder or organic coloring matter with the binder-coated inorganic cores, can be accomplished using an apparatus that can apply spatular and / or compressive shear force to the mixture. of powders.

Such equipment is, for example, wheel mixers, sheet mixers and the like.

Wheel mixers are particularly suitable.

A list of suitable apparatus is given in application EP 1 184 426 A2.

[0197] Another method of manufacturing a composite pigment is described in JP 3286463, which discloses a solution precipitation process.

[0198] The organic coloring matter is dissolved in ethanol, and the inorganic nuclei are then dispersed in this ethanolic solution.

[0199] Next, an alkaline aqueous solution of sodium or potassium carbonate is slowly added to these mixtures, then, finally, slowly, an ethanolic solution of calcium chloride, all under stirring.

[0200] In addition to a coloring agent that absorbs light by an absorption phenomenon, the composition may contain at least one interference or diffraction pigment, and / or reflective particles.

[0201] In an exemplary embodiment of the invention, the first composition includes at least one goniochromatic coloring agent that makes it possible to observe a color change as a function of the angle of observation.

This goniochromatic coloring agent may or may not be magnetic.

[0202] When the first composition includes magnetic particles of a certain color and a non-magnetic goniochromatic coloring agent, the latter can be chosen in such a way that the color path passes substantially through the color of the magnetic particles.

[0203] This can make it possible, for example, to make magnetic particles more difficult to detect in the absence of their orientation under the effect of a magnetic field.

[0204] This can also make it possible to make the motif induced by the orientation of magnetic particles only appear under certain conditions of observation and / or lighting of the made-up support, which can make it possible to create particularly attractive effects of appearance and arrangement of the motif. .

Reflective particles

[0205] The composition containing the magnetic bodies can comprise reflective particles, particularly chips, among others, magnetic or not.

[0206] By "reflective particles" are designated particles whose size, structure, particularly thickness of the layer or layers that constitute it and their physical and chemical nature, and the surface state, allow them to reflect incidental light.

This reflection can, where appropriate, have a sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or the mixture, when it is applied on the support to be made up, points of greater intensity visible to the naked eye, that is

ES 2 602 182 T3 that is, points brighter that contrast with their surroundings, seeming to shine.

[0207] Reflective particles can be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents that are associated with them, and particularly to optimize this effect in terms of color.

These can, in a more particular way, have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.

[0208] The reflective particles can be present in the first composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 60% with respect to the total weight of the first composition, particularly from 1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 3% to 10% by weight.

[0209] These particles can have various shapes, in particular be plate-shaped or globular, in particular spherical.

[0210] Reflective particles, whatever their shape, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, particularly of a reflective material.

[0211] When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they can be composed for example of metal oxides, particularly titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.

[0212] When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they can for example contain a natural or synthetic substrate, particularly a synthetic substrate at least partially wrapped by at least one layer of a material that reflects in particular at least one metal or metallic material .

The substrate can be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic.

[0213] In a more particular way, one can choose from among glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, particularly aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and their mixtures, This list is not limiting.

[0214] The reflective material may contain a layer of metal or a metallic material.

[0215] Some reflective particles are particularly described in JP-A-09188830; JP-A10158450; JP-A-10158541; JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

[0216] Still by way of example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate wrapped by a metal layer, it is also possible to mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate wrapped with silver.

[0217] Some silver coated glass substrate particles, in the form of plates, are sold under the designation MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by TOYAL.

Some nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy coated glass substrate particles are sold under the designation CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by this same company.

[0218] The composition containing the magnetic bodies can comprise at least one mother-of-pearl, magnetic or not. Other components

[0219] Typically, the composition containing the magnetic bodies includes a physiologically acceptable medium.

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is non-toxic and capable of being applied to the skin, appendages or lips of human beings.

The physiologically acceptable medium is usually adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied and to the form in which the composition is packaged.

[0220] The composition may contain other ingredients in addition to those described below, particularly at least one solvent, a fatty phase, a film-forming polymer and / or a dermatological or cosmetic active, particularly depending on the galenic form.

Solvents

[0221] The composition containing the magnetic bodies can contain at least one aqueous or organic solvent, particularly a volatile organic solvent.

[0222] The first composition may advantageously contain a volatile solvent, particularly a solvent

ES 2 602 182 T3 volatile organic.

[0223] In the sense of the present invention, "volatile solvent" is understood to mean a solvent, liquid at room temperature, which in particular has a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a voltage of vapor ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0224] When the composition comprises one or more organic solvents, these solvents can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99%, with respect to the total weight of the composition in question.

[0225] In general, the amount of solvent (s), particularly organic (s), will depend on the nature of the support on which the composition is intended to be applied.

[0226] The first composition can contain at least one volatile solvent consisting of a volatile oil.

[0227] The oil may be a silconated oil or a hydrocarbon oil, or contain a mixture of such oils.

[0228] In the sense of the present invention, "siliconized oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and particularly at least one Sl-O group.

[0229] The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to be an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorous atoms.

[0230] Volatile hydrocarbon oils can be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and particularly C8-C16 branched allenes (also called soparaffins) such as sododecane (also called 2,2 , 4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPARS® or PERMETHYLS®.

[0231] As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, such as volatile linear or cyclic silicon oils, especially those with a viscosity &lt;8 centistokes (8 x4 Em²/ s), and having in particular 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

As volatile silicon oil usable in the invention, particular mention may be made of dlmethlcones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethllclotetraslloxane, decametllclclopentaslloxane, dodecametllclclohexaslloxane, heptamethllhexlltrlstallloxane, dlheptamethlhexyltrl , decametll tetraloxane, dodecametll pentaslloxane, and their mixtures.

[0232] It is also possible to cite the linear oils volatile alkalylloxanes of general formula (I):

CH

CHJ ₃—SiO — Si-O-SifcH j

R where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and whose hydrogen atoms can be replaced by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

[0233] Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of: 3-butll 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptametll trlslloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3, 5,5,5-heptametll trlslloxane, and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptametll trlslloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

[0234] It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylclopentane, and their mixtures.

[0235] A composition according to the invention may comprise, for example, between 0.01% and 95% by weight of volatile oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, better between 1% and 75% by weight.

ES 2 602 182 T3

[0236] The composition may contain at least one organic solvent chosen from the following list:

- liquid ketones at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone, acetone;

- liquid alcohols at room temperature such as ethanol, isopropanol, diacetone alcohol, 2-butoxyethanol, cyclohexanol;

- liquid glycols at room temperature such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol;

- propylene glycol ethers liquid at room temperature such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, dipropylene glycol mono n-butyl ether;

- short chain esters (having 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, isopentyl acetate;

- liquid alkanes at room temperature such as decane, eptane, dodecane, cyclohexane.

[0237] The composition can also comprise water or a mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents normally used in cosmetics, such as alcohols and particularly linear or branched lower monoalcohols having 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, polyols such as glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols.

The first composition may further contain hydrophilic C2 ethers and C2-C4 aldehydes.

The water or the mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents can be present in the first and / or the second composition in a content ranging for example from 0% to 90%, particularly 0.1% to 90% by weight and preferably from 0% to 60% by weight, particularly 0.1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fat phase

[0238] The composition, for example when it is intended to be applied to the lips or eyelashes, can contain a fatty phase and in particular at least one liquid fatty body at room temperature (25 ° C) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) and / or a solid fatty substance at room temperature such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and their mixtures.

The fatty phase can also contain lipophilic organic solvents.

[0239] The composition can have, for example, a continuous fatty phase, it can contain less than 5% water, particularly less than 1% water with respect to its total weight and in particular be in anhydrous form.

[0240] As liquid fatty substances at room temperature, often called "oils", the following can be mentioned: vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids with 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or even sunflower, corn, soybean, grapeseed, sesame oils, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, jojoba oil, shea butter, lanolin, acetylated lanolin; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam; esters and synthetic ethers, particularly of fatty acids, such as Purcellin's oil, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate , isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; isononyl isonanoate, isopropyl lanolate, tridecyl trimellilate, diisostearyl malate; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, dictylene glycol diisononanoate; and the esters of pentaerythritol; fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol; partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils; silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatile or not, linear or cyclic, liquid or pasty at room temperature, such as cyclomethicones, dimethicones, possibly comprising a phenyl group, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxanes, diphenylmethyldimethyl-trisiloxanes , diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, polymethylphenyl siloxanes; their mixes.

The oils can be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 90%, and better still from 0.1 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0241] The presence of an oily phase can impart shine and have, for example, a refractive index between 1.47 and 1.51, better between 1.48 and 1.50.

The refractive index is measured at room temperature (25 ° C), using a refractometer.

[0242] The composition may contain at least one structuring agent of the liquid fatty phase (formed by the oils and / or volatile or non-volatile organic solvents described above) chosen from among waxes, semi-crystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents and their mixes.

ES 2 602 182 T3

[0243] The pasty fatty substances are usually hydrocarbon compounds with a melting point between 25 and 60 ° C, preferably between 30 and 45 ° C, and / or a hardness between 0.001 and 0.5 MPa, preferably between 0.005 and 0 , 4 MPa, such as lanolins and their derivatives.

[0244] Waxes can be solid at room temperature (25 ° C), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature higher than 30 ° C that can go up to 200 ° C, a hardness higher than 0, 5 MPa, and presenting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state.

In particular, waxes can have a melting temperature higher than 25 ° C and better than 45 ° C.

The waxes can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

As usable waxes, mention may be made of beeswax, Carnauba or Candellila wax, paraffin, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene or Fischer Tropsch waxes, silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy-dimethicone having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms.

The composition may contain from 0 to 50% by weight of waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition, even from 1 to 30% by weight.

[0245] The gums that can be used are usually high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or cellulose or polysaccharide gums.

Film-forming polymers

[0246] The composition can also contain, for example, a film-forming polymer, particularly in the case of a mask, a nail polish or a make-up base. Film-forming polymer designates a polymer capable of forming, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, particularly on keratinous materials.

[0247] Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made, among others, of synthetic polymers, of the radical type or of the polycondensate type, the polymers of natural origin, such as nitrocellulose or cellulose esters, and their mixtures.

[0248] Radicalar-type film-forming polymers can be particularly vinyl polymers or copolymers, particularly acrylic polymers.

[0249] Vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers that have at least one acid group and / or the esters of these acidic monomers and / or the amides of these acidic monomers such as unsaturated carboxylic acids a , S-ethylenics such as acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, maleic, itaconic.

[0250] Vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from among vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and t-butyl vinyl benzoate and styrenic monomers such as styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

[0251] Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and polyureas, this list is not limiting.

[0252] Polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, can be chosen from shellac resin, watermelon gum, dammar gums, elemís, copals, cellulosic polymers, such as nitrocellulose, ethylcellulose or esters nitrocellulose selected, for example, from cellulose acetate, cellulose acetobutyrate, cellulose acetopropionate, and mixtures thereof.

[0253] The film-forming polymer can be present in the form of solid particles in an aqueous or oily dispersion, commonly known as latex or pseudo-latex.

The film-forming polymer can contain one or more stable dispersions of usually spherical polymer particles of one or more polymers, in a physiologically acceptable liquid fatty phase.

These dispersions are commonly called polymer NAD (Non-Aqueous Dispersion) as opposed to latexes, which are aqueous polymer dispersions.

These dispersions can in particular be in the form of polymer nanoparticles in stable dispersion in said fatty phase.

The nanoparticles are preferably of a size between 5 and 600 nm.

The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to the skilled person.

[0254] As aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, the acrylic dispersions sold under the names NEOCRYL XK-90®, NEOCRYL A-1070®, NEOCRYL A-1090®, NEOCRYL BT-62®, NEOCRYL A1079®, NEOCRYL A can be used -523® by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, DOW LATEX 432® by the company DOW CHEMICAL, DAITOSOL 5000 AD® by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO; or even the aqueous dispersions of

ES 2 602 182 T3 polyurethane sold under the names NEOREZ R-981®, NEOREZ R-974® by the company AVECIANEORESINS, the AVALURE UR-405®, AVALURE UR-410®, AVALURE UR-425®, AVALURE UR-450® , SANCURE 875®, SANCURE 861®, SANCURE 878®, SANCURE 2060® by GOODRICH company, IMPRANIL 85® by BAYET company, AQUAMERE H-1511® by HYDROMER company; sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ by Eastman Chemical Products.

Blocked film-forming polymer

[0255] According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer which is a film-forming linear sequenced ethylenic polymer.

This polymer preferably comprises at least one first sequence and at least one second sequence having different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second sequences being connected to each other by an intermediate sequence comprising at least one constitutive monomer of the first sequence. and at least one constitutive monomer of the second sequence.

[0256] Advantageously, the first and second sequences and of the sequenced polymer are incompatible with each other.

[0257] Such polymers are described for example in EP 1411069 or WO04 / 028488, which are incorporated by reference.

[0258] The composition containing the magnetic bodies can contain at least one charge, magnetic or not.

Loads

[0259] By "filler", it is meant particles of any shape, insoluble in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

A filler can be particularly useful to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.

The nature and quantity of the particles may depend on the mechanical properties and the desired textures.

[0260] As examples of fillers, mention may be made, among others, of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, sericite, polyamide powders, polyolefin powders, for example polyethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene, polymethylmethacrylate , polyurethane, starch powders and silicone resin balls.

[0261] The fillers can be designed to create, among others, a blur effect, particularly in the case of a make-up base, in order to hide skin imperfections.

[0062] The composition containing the magnetic bodies can also comprise an auxiliary film-forming agent that promotes the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer.

Assets

[0263] The composition can contain at least one cosmetic or dermatological active.

As cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical active ingredients, usable in the compositions of the invention, mention can be made of moisturizers (polyols such as glycerin), vitamins (C, A, E, F, B, or PP), essential fatty acids, oils essentials, ceramides, sphingolipids, fat-soluble sunscreens or in the form of nanoparticles, specific active ingredients for skin treatment (protective agents, antibacterial agents, anti-wrinkles ...), self-tanning agents.

These actives can be used, for example, in concentrations from 0 to 20% and particularly from 0.001 to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0264] The composition can also contain ingredients normally used in cosmetics, such as, for example, thickeners, surfactants, trace elements, moisturizers, softeners, sequestrants, perfumes, alkalizing or acidifying agents, preservatives, antioxidants, UV filters, colorants or their mixtures.

[0265] The composition according to the invention may comprise, depending on the type of intended application, the components usually used in the domains considered, which are present in an appropriate quantity for the desired dosage form.

Galenic forms

[0266] The composition can be presented in various forms, depending on its destination.

The composition can thus be presented in any galenic form normally used for topical application and particularly in anhydrous form, in the form of an oily or aqueous solution, of an oily or aqueous gel, of an oil-in-water, water-in-water emulsion. oil, wax in water or water in wax, from an emulsion

ES 2 602 182 T3 multiple, of an oil-in-water dispersion thanks to vesicles located at the oil / water interface.

[0267] The composition can be in the form of a powder, or even a gel.

Magnetic devices

[0268] The magnetic positive device can contain a permanent magnet or an electromagnet, powered for example by at least one battery or an accumulator.

In the latter case, the magnetic device may contain a switch that allows the electromagnet to be selectively supplied with electricity.

[0269] The magnetic device may be arranged to create a magnetic field whose orientation varies with time.

When the magnetic device includes a magnet, the device can for example contain a motor that allows the magnet to be rotated.

Alternatively, the magnetic device may contain a number of solenoids arranged to generate, when sequentially powered with electricity, a rotating magnetic field.

[0270] A rotating magnetic field can, for example, make it possible to obtain a pattern exhibiting a symmetry of revolution, for example a pattern that gives the impression of a sphere in relief.

[0271] The electromagnet (s) can be powered without interruption or intermittently, at the user's choice.

In particular, the magnetic device can be arranged in such a way that the electromagnet (s) may not be powered as long as the magnetic device is not correctly positioned close to the coated support of the first composition.

[0272] The magnetic field is for example at least 50 mT, even at least 66 mT, better than at least 0.2 T, even at least 1 T (10,000 gauss).

[0273] To make the application of the magnetic field easier, the magnetic device can contain a member that allows it to be positioned with respect to the support on which the composition has been deposited.

This can, for example, make it possible to prevent the magnetic device from accidentally coming into contact with the composition and / or to center the pattern made on the region of interest.

[0274] In an exemplary embodiment of the invention, the magnetic device is attached to an applicator that serves to apply the cosmetic composition.

This can make it possible to reduce the number of objects handled by the user and to facilitate makeup.

[0275] In another example of embodiment of the invention, the magnetic device includes a magnet installed at a first end of a rod, the second end of which is connected to a gripping member of an applicator that is used to apply the cosmetic composition.

[0276] The magnetic field can also be exerted through a particularly flexible magnetic structure comprising an alternation of N and S poles. Such a structure can, for example, make it possible to make repetitive patterns on the first composition, for example stripes.

Kits for the execution of the process

[0277] The invention furthermore aims, according to another of its aspects, a kit for the execution of the procedure as defined above, comprising:

- a magnetic device that makes it possible to generate a magnetic field,

- a non-magnetic cosmetic applicator,

- a cosmetic composition comprising

- magnetic bodies exhibiting non-zero magnetic susceptibility and moving under the effect of a magnetic field,

- at least one diffraction pigment,

- the magnetic device being capable of creating a susceptible magnetic field, when keratin materials coated with a deposit of said composition are introduced into said magnetic field, of modifying the orientation and / or position of the magnetic bodies within the deposit, the field magnetic being applied to form at least one pattern on the composition.

[0278] The magnetic device can in particular be arranged to generate a magnetic field strong enough to be able to modify the orientation and / or position of the magnetic bodies within the composition after application on a support such as the skin, mucous membranes or the aprons, to change their appearance.

ES 2 602 182 T3

[0279] The magnetic field is, for example, exerted shortly after deposition, to change the appearance of the composition before drying, when the first composition includes a volatile solvent.

[0280] The composition can be, for example, an enamel, a make-up base or a lipstick, and have the characteristics such as those defined above.

[0281] The magnetic device can be as defined above.

[0282] The kit may contain a housing that houses the first cosmetic composition and the magnetic device.

In such a case, the housing may contain for example a plurality of magnets of different shapes to realize different motifs.

[0283] The kit can also contain a supplementary cosmetic composition to apply on the aforementioned composition or on the support before applying it.

[0284] The invention may be better understood by reading the following detailed description of non-limiting examples of its execution, and by examining the attached drawing, in which:

• Figure 1 represents, schematically, an example of a kit according to the invention, • Figure 2 represents in axial, schematic and partial section, the magnetic device of Figure 1, • Figures 3 and 4 schematically illustrate the use of the kit, • figure 5 represents an example of a pattern that can be obtained thanks to the invention, • figure 6 schematically represents a container containing a supplementary composition that can be applied to the support, • Figure 7 represents in isolation, schematically, another example of a magnetic device that can be used, • Figure 8 schematically represents the magnetic device of Figure 7 provided with a member for positioning the magnet in front of the make-up support, • Figures 9 and 10 schematically represent other examples of kits according to the invention, • Figure 11 illustrates the use of the kit of Figure 10, • Figure 12 represents in elevation and in isolation, schematically, an example of applicator attached to a magnetic device, • figure 13 is an axial and schematic section of another example of kit according to the invention, • figure 14 schematically represents another example of kit according to the invention, • Figure 15 represents another example of a composition packaging device, • Figure 16 represents a perforated mask that can be used during the implementation of the method according to the invention, and • Figure 17 represents a magnetic sheet that can be used during the implementation of the method according to the invention.

[0285] In the figures, the magnetic bodies are represented in the form of points for the sake of greater clarity of the drawing, but in reality the bodies may not be individually visible to the naked eye.

[0286] Figure 1 represents a kit 1 comprising a cosmetic composition C1 that includes magnetic particles P whose orientation and / or position determine the appearance of the composition after depositing on a support such as the skin, mucous membranes or aprons or even false nails.

[0287] In the illustrated example, the composition C1 is an enamel contained in a container 2 closed by a cap 3. The latter supports a cosmetic applicator 4, non-magnetic, which comprises an application member 5 constituted by a brush that allows to apply the varnish on the nails.

[0288] Kit 1 also includes a magnetic device 10 that makes it possible to generate a magnetic field useful to modify the appearance of the composition C1, without contact with it.

[0289] In the example considered, the magnetic device 10 includes a permanent magnet 12 supported by a holding member 13 with longitudinal axis X, the polar axis of magnet 12 being substantially perpendicular to axis X.

[0290] In the example considered, the magnetic device 10 is arranged to generate a rotating magnetic field and includes a non-apparent motor, housed in a housing 15, to rotate the maintenance member 13 around its X axis

[0291] A switch 16 is present in the housing 15 to allow the user to start the motor and to rotate the holding member 13 with the magnet 12.

ES 2 602 182 T3

[0292] In a variant embodiment not illustrated, the rotating magnetic field is generated by a plurality of solenoids fed sequentially to generate a rotating field.

[0293] To use kit 1, the user can begin, as illustrated in figure 3, by applying composition C1 to the support to be made up S, in this case a nail, with the help of applicator 4.

[0294] In the next step, illustrated in Figure 4, the user carries the magnetic device 10 above a central region R of the bracket S and operates the switch 16 to rotate the magnet 12.

[0295] The magnetic particles contained in the composition C1 tend to align with the field lines of the magnet 12 and change their orientation, which involves a modification of the appearance of the composition C1.

[0296] The user can choose the duration of application of the magnetic field depending on the result he wants to obtain.

[0297] The pattern obtained can, for example, give the impression of a sphere in relief, as illustrated in figure 5.

[0298] As appropriate, the user can apply a complementary composition C2, for example a transparent varnish, contained in a container shown in figure 6, once the composition C1 has dried.

[0299] The application of this second composition C2 can make it possible to create a complementary effect of depth, for example.

[0300] Composition C1 can have, in the example of the nail polish of Figures 1 to 5, the following formulation, the amounts being expressed in all the examples below in mass fractions.

Example A

<td>Nitrocellulose</td><td> 11</td>

<td>N-ethyl o, p-toluenesulfonamide</td><td> 5</td>

<td>Alkyd resin</td><td> 10</td>

<td>Isopropanol</td><td> 4</td>

<td>Interferential magnetic pigment *</td><td> 0,5</td>

<td>Butyl acetate / ethyl acetate 50/50</td><td>Qsp100</td>

<td colspan="2">* nacres containing at least 14% of the reference Fe3O4 COLORONA PLATINA gOlD (117288) marketed by MERCK</td>

[0301] The appearance of such a glaze can be modified by applying a magnetic field, before the varnish has had time to dry.

[0302] When a second composition C2 is applied over the first, it has for example the following formulation.

Example B

<td>Nitrocellulose</td><td> 11</td>

<td>N-ethyl o, p-toluenesulfonamide</td><td> 5</td>

<td>Alkyd resin</td><td> 10</td>

<td>Isopropanol</td><td> 4</td>

<td>Butyl acetate / ethyl acetate 50/50</td><td>Qsp100</td>

[0303] Such a composition can make it possible to create an effect of supplementary depth.

[0304] Alternatively, the second composition can be used to create a colored background, being applied before the first.

The second composition then has, for example, the following formulation.

Example C

<td>Nitrocellulose</td><td> 11</td>

<td>N-ethyl o, p-toluenesulfonamide</td><td> 5</td>

<td>Alkyd resin</td><td> 10</td>

<td>Isopropanol</td><td> 4</td>

ES 2 602 182 T3

<td>DC RED7 CI 15850 Pigment</td><td> 2</td>

<td>Magnetic pigment *</td><td> 0,2</td>

<td>Interferential pigment **</td><td> 3</td>

<td>Butyl acetate / ethyl acetate 50/50</td><td>Qsp100</td>

<td colspan="2">* SATPA WM IRON VP 041040 from ECKART ** Xirona Kiwi-Rose from Merck</td>

[0305] This composition, when subjected to a magnetic induction field, has a decorative appearance that sets after drying. The connection of the interferential pigment makes it possible to give the whole a complementary color effect to highlight the effect provided by the particle with magnetic susceptibility. In the case of this example, a goniochromatic effect is used between the colors green and pink.

[0306] Of course, the magnetic field applied to the composition, whatever its nature, may not be rotating.

As an example, a magnetic device is shown in Figure 7 that includes a permanent magnet 12 in the form of a bar at its end.

[0307] When the magnetic field is not rotating, the user can, for example, move the magnet to the proximity of the composition C1 depending on the result he wants to obtain.

[0308] The magnetic device, whatever it may be, may contain a member that allows it to be positioned with respect to the support S.

[0309] This positioning member serves, for example, to prevent the magnetic device from touching the composition while the magnetic field is exerted.

[0310] The positioning member can also serve to center the motif to be made with respect to the support S, for example the nail.

[0311] Depending on the nature of the support, the positioning member may take various forms, for example that of an extension 17 that offers a retaining stop surface for the end of the finger, as illustrated in figure 8.

[0312] Figure 9 shows another example of kit 1 according to the invention, comprising a first composition C1 constituted in this example by a liquid lipstick or a lip gloss.

[0313] The applicator 4 includes in this example a flexible nozzle 20 supported by the cap 3 of the container 2.

[0314] The magnetic device 10 is presented, for example, in the form of a flexible structure, for example made of plastic material loaded with magnetized particles, creating an alternation of N and S poles, which makes it possible to form repeated patterns on the coated support of the first composition, for example stripes.

[0315] In the case of a lipstick, composition C1 has, for example, the following formulation.

Example D

<td>Octyl-2 dodecanol</td><td> 10</td>

<td>Diterthiobutyl 4-hydroxytoluene</td><td> 0,07</td>

<td>Polybutene (95/5 monoolefins / isoparaffins) (PM: 2060)</td><td> 50</td>

<td>Mix of isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl p-hydroxybenzoates (40/30/30)</td><td> 0,4</td>

<td>Pentaerythrityl tetra-isostearate</td><td> 11,33</td>

<td>Tridecyl tri-melitate</td><td> 13</td>

<td>2-decyl tetradecanoic triglyceride (GUERBET C24)</td><td> 15</td>

<td>Interferential magnetic pigment *</td><td> 0,2</td>

<td colspan="2">* nacres containing at least 14% Fe₃Reference O4 COLORONA PLATINA GOLD (117288) marketed by the company MERCK</td>

[0316] Another kit 1 according to the invention has been represented in figure 10.

In this exemplary embodiment, kit 1 includes a housing 30 made up of a basic body 31 and a lid 32 hinged on it.

[0317] The basic body 31 includes a compartment 33 that houses the composition C1 constituted, in the illustrated example, of a make-up base in pasty form.

ES 2 602 182 T3

[0318] The basic body 31 includes a housing 34 arranged to receive at least one magnet 12.

[0319] This magnet 12 can have, for example, an adhesive face 25 or any other mounting means that allows the user to fix it on the end of his finger to bring it close to the area made up, for example a region of the face such and as illustrated in figure 11.

[0320] After having applied the composition C1 on the skin, the user can, for example, modify its clarity by exposing it to the magnetic field generated by the magnet 12.

[0321] In the case of a skin make-up composition, it has, for example, the following formulation.

Example E

<td>Magnesium sulphate</td><td> 15-</td>

<td>Sodium carboximethylcelulose</td><td> 0,5</td>

<td>Modified hectorite distearyl dimethyl ammonium</td><td> 1</td>

<td>Cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane</td><td> 15</td>

<td>Glycerol</td><td> 5</td>

<td>Polymethylcetyl dimethyl methylsiloxane oxyethylene mixture, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) hexyl laurate</td><td> 9</td>

<td>Water</td><td> 31,6</td>

<td>Ethylene Glycol Acetyl Stearate Blend, Glyceryl Tristearate</td><td> 0,3</td>

<td>Brown iron oxide wrapped with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (97/3)</td><td> 1,58</td>

<td>Stearoyl glutamate wrapped anatase titanium oxide (97/3)</td><td> 18,17</td>

<td>Yellow iron oxide wrapped with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (93/3)</td><td> 4,56</td>

<td>Black iron oxide wrapped with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (97/3)</td><td> 0,69</td>

<td>Poly dimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 cst)</td><td> 6</td>

<td>Interferential magnetic pigment *</td><td> 0,5</td>

<td>1,2-pentanediol</td><td> 3</td>

<td colspan="2">* nacres containing at least 14% Fe₃Reference O4 COLORONA PLATINA GOLD (117288) marketed by the company MERCK</td>

<td colspan="2"></td>

[0322] Whatever the type of applicator, the magnet 12 can, where appropriate, be incorporated into the applicator.

[0323] In the example of figure 12, the closure cap 3 is topped by the magnet 12, on the side opposite the application member 5.

[0324] In the example of figure 13, the magnet 12 is supported by a holding member 13 topped by a cap 51 and can be housed when not in use in a compartment 50 of the cap 3 that allows closing the container 2 containing the first composition C1.

The cap 51 serves to grip the magnet 12 and allows the compartment 50 to be closed.

[0325] It does not depart from the scope of the present invention when the magnetic field is generated by an electromagnet instead of a permanent magnet.

[0326] In figure 14, a kit 1 comprising a container 2 constituted by a container containing the first composition C1 and a magnetic device 10 comprising an electromagnet 40 at one end of a housing 44 housing the power supply has been represented. electrical.

[0327] A switch 45 allows the user to selectively power the electromagnet 40.

[0328] Various devices, in addition to those that have been described, that allow conditioning and / or distributing or applying the composition C1 can be used.

[0329] The composition C1 can, for example, be deposited on the support S without applicator but in the form of an aerosol, for example using a pump 60 as illustrated in figure 15.

The aerosol can also be generated through an airbrush or a pressurized container, for example.

[0330] A perforated mask 70, shown in FIG. 16 and comprising a motif 71 as an openwork, in the shape of a star in the illustrated example, can be interposed between the aerosol and the make-up support.

[0331] A sheet 75 permeable to the magnetic field, perforated or not, can be interposed between the magnet 12 or the electromagnet 40 and the support S, to modify the geometry of the field lines and create new effects.

ES 2 602 182 T3

[0332] Of course, the invention is not limited to the examples that have been described.

[0333] For example, the kit may contain a plurality of magnets that have different shapes to perform different motifs.

[0334] The expression "comprising a" must be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one" and "comprised between" must be understood including the limits, unless otherwise specified.