Make-up method using a magnetic composition containing at least one tinting agent having optical properties which are sensitive to an external stimulus

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DESCRIPTION

Make-up procedure of a support and kit to carry out this procedure.

The present invention relates to a method for making up a support, such as the skin, phaneros or mucous membranes or also false nails, as well as various kits for carrying out this procedure.

By cosmetic composition, in the sense of the present invention is designated a composition as defined in directive 93/35 / CEE of June 14, 1993, which modifies directive 76/768 / CEE. Foundations, lipsticks, and nail polishes are examples of cosmetic compositions.

There is a need to benefit from new aesthetic effects in the makeup field and the invention aims to respond to this need.

Document EP 1 264 562 describes a device comprising fibers that have magnetic properties, and an applicator formed by a brush that also has magnetic properties, in order to favor the loading of the brush with product, by attracting the product by the bristles of the brush. The product can also contain flakes that have magnetic properties, and the applicator can interact magnetically with these flakes, to bring them to a particular orientation at the time of application, in order to promote the sliding of the applicator.

Document US 2003/0072602 describes a device comprising a magnetic applicator and a substance sensitive to the action of the applicator's magnetic field, in order to increase the retention of the product on the applicator when the latter moves from the container towards the area to be treat.

Makeup procedure

According to one of its aspects, the object of the invention is a process for making up a support comprising the following steps:

- depositing on the support by means of a non-magnetic cosmetic applicator at least a first cosmetic composition in a fluid state, which contains magnetic particles that are mobile under the effect of a magnetic field,

- at least partially exposing the first composition to a magnetic field, in order to orient and / or displace at least a part of the magnetic particles inside the reservoir.

Exposure to the magnetic field can change the appearance of the first composition.

Thus, the process may comprise the step consisting in exposing at least partially the first composition to a magnetic field, in order to orient and / or displace at least a part of the magnetic particles and modify the appearance of the first composition. .

The magnetic field can be applied in such a way as to form at least one pattern on the first composition, this being for example related to the geometry of the field lines.

The invention thus makes it possible to create new makeup effects with a single cosmetic composition, allowing, for example, to make patterns in relief or by conferring an impression of relief or other various patterns, geometric or not.

The magnetic field can also be applied in order to model the clarity and / or color of at least one area of ​​the face or body on which the first composition has been applied.

For example, when the cosmetic composition is a make-up base, the orientation of the particles under the effect of the magnetic field makes it possible to modify the clarity of the composition and thus shape the appearance of the face according to the areas exposed to the magnetic field, with the In particular, to create a light / dark type of make-up, without a brutal transition, if desired, between light and dark areas. The magnetic field can be applied for example in order to darken the sides of the face in order to make it appear thinner than it really is.

In an exemplary embodiment of the invention, a layer of a second cosmetic composition is applied over the first, for example to obtain a depth, shine, smoothing or other effect. This second composition can be transparent, colored or not. The second composition is intended, for example, for application to the lips or nails. The second composition can also be applied to the support before the first composition, for example to create a colored background, or improve the strength of the first composition and / or comfort.

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The magnetic field can be applied until a fixed appearance of the first composition is obtained, that is, the appearance of the first composition stops evolving even if the magnetic field persists. As a variant, the magnetic field can be applied for a period shorter than that which causes the orientation and / or the definitive displacement of all the magnetic particles in the exposed area.

When the clarity and / or color of the first composition progressively changes under the effect of the magnetic field, the user can stop subjecting the magnetic particles to the field when the first composition has the desired appearance.

In an application example of the invention, the magnetic field is exerted through a magnetic sheet. Depending on its shape, the field lines will have different geometries, which allows, for example, to increase the number of motifs that can be made with the same magnet.

The magnetic field can be exerted successively on different areas of the support coated with the first composition.

The magnetic field can be exerted on separate areas of the support, for example to create separate patterns.

An area of ​​the support coated with the first composition may not be exposed to the magnetic field, in order not to modify in this area the appearance of the first composition after its deposit.

Two areas of the support may be unevenly exposed to the magnetic field.

The first composition can be applied in various ways, for example by means of a non-magnetic cosmetic applicator, selected for example from brushes, flocked terminals and foams, or without an applicator, the first composition being spread for example with fingers or pulverized.

In an application example of the invention, the first composition is applied to the support through an openwork mask. This can, for example, make it possible to produce a predetermined pattern, which corresponds to the shape of the cutwork. At least one area of ​​the support covered by the first composition can then be exposed to the magnetic field.

First cosmetic composition

The first composition can adopt a state that prevents any new change in orientation of the magnetic particles under the effect of a magnetic field after a given drying time. It is for example the case of a nail polish. The orientation of the magnetic particles can also, in some cases, be modified at any time, in particular when the first composition does not dry or has a very long drying time. This can be the case, for example, of a make-up base.

The first composition comprises magnetic particles, as indicated above, which can be presented in various forms.

Magnetic particles

By magnetic particles, also called magnetic bodies, we mean particles that have a magnetic susceptibility, that is, sensitive to the action of a magnetic field and that tend, for example, to align themselves on field lines.

The first composition can comprise both magnetic and non-magnetic particles.

The presence of magnetic and non-magnetic particles in the composition can, for example, make it possible to create new optical effects, modulable under the effect of a magnetic field.

Preferably, the magnetic particles used do not have any remanent magnetization in the absence of a magnetic field.

Magnetic particles can comprise any magnetic material that exhibits sensitivity to the lines of a magnetic field, whether produced by a permanent magnet or from an induction, this material being selected for example from nickel, cobalt, iron, its alloys and oxides, in particular Fe3O4, and also gadolinium, terbium, dysprosium, erbium, its alloys and oxides. The magnetic material can be of the soft or hard type and in particular comprise metallic iron, in particular soft iron, optionally coated.

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Magnetic particles may or may not have a multilayer structure, comprising at least one layer of a magnetic material, such as, for example, iron, nickel, cobalt, their alloys and oxides, in particular Fe3O4.

The magnetic particles are preferably aspherical, and have an elongated shape, for example. Thus, when these particles are subjected to the magnetic field, they tend to orient themselves with their longitudinal axis in alignment with the lines of the field, and undergo a change in orientation that results in a change in appearance of the first composition.

When the magnetic particles are substantially spherical, their appearance is preferably not homogeneous, so that a change in orientation induces a change in appearance.

The amount of magnetic particles is sufficient so that the appearance of the composition can depend on its orientation and / or its location.

The concentration of magnetic particles is, for example, between approximately 0.05 and approximately 97% by mass, in particular between approximately 0.1 and approximately 95% by mass, better between approximately 0.1 and approximately 90%. % by mass, for example, is of the order of 3% by mass. The dimension of the magnetic particles is comprised, for example, between 1 nm and 700 pm, better between 1 pm and 500 pm, better still between 10 pm and 150 pm. The term "dimension" designates the dimension given by the mean statistical granulometric distribution of the population, called D50.

Magnetic pigments

The magnetic particles of the first composition can comprise magnetic pigments. Very particularly suitable pigments are nacres comprising iron oxide Fe3O4. Some pigments that have magnetic properties are, for example, those marketed under the trade names COLORONA BLACKSTAR BLUE, COLORONA BLACKSTAR GREEN, COLORONA BLACKSTAR GOLD, COLORONA BLACKSTAR RED, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE SUPER GREEN, MICRONA MATTE BLACK (17437), MICA BLACK (17260 ), COLORONA PATINA SILVER (17289) and COLORONA PATINA GOLD (117288) from the MERCK company or also FLAMENCO TWILIGHT RED, FLAMENCO TWILIGHT GREEN, FLAMENCO TWILIGHT GOLD, FLAMENCO TWILIGHT BLUE, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE SILVER 110 AB, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE GOLD 212 GB, TIMICA NU-ANTIQUE COPPER 340 AB, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE BRONZE 240 AB, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE GREEN 828 CB, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE BLUE 626 CB, GEMTONE MOONSTONE G 004, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE RED 424 CB, CHROMALITE BLACK (4498), CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE ROUGE FLAMBE (code 440 XB), CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE BRONZE (240 XB), CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE GOLD (222 CB) and CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE COPPER (340 XB) for the ENGELHARD company.

Mention may also be made of the black iron oxide particles, for example those sold under the name SICOVIT noir E172 by the company BASF or the soft iron-based particles proposed under the name STAPA® WM IRON VP 041040 by the company ECKART .

The magnetic particles can be fibers.

The term "fibers" designates generally elongated bodies, which have, for example, a shape factor between 3.5 and 2,500 or between 5 and 500, for example between 5 and 150. The shape factor is defined by the ratio L / D, where L is the length of the fiber and D is the diameter of the circle in which the largest cross section of the fiber is inscribed.

The cross section of the fibers can be inscribed, for example, in a circle with a diameter between 2 nm and 500 pm, for example between 100 nm and 100 pm, even between 1 pm and 50 pm.

The fibers can have, for example, a length between 1 pm and 10 mm, for example between 0.1 mm and 5 mm, even between 0.3 mm and 3.5 mm.

The fibers can have a mass of, for example, between 0.15 and 30 deniers (gram mass for 9 km of yarn), for example between 0.18 and 18 deniers.

The cross-sectional shape of the fibers can be any, for example circular or polygonal, in particular square, hexagonal or octagonal.

The composition can comprise solid or hollow fibers, independent or joined together, for example braided.

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The composition may comprise fibers having pointed and / or rounded ends, for example by polishing.

The fibers may not see their shape substantially altered when introduced into the composition, being, for example, initially rectilinear and sufficiently rigid to retain their shape. As a variant, the fibers can have a flexibility that allows them to deform substantially in the composition.

The fibers can comprise a non-zero content, which can reach up to 100%, of a magnetic material selected from soft magnetic materials, hard magnetic materials, in particular based on iron, zinc, nickel, cobalt or manganese, and its alloys and oxides, in particular Fe₃OR₄, rare earths, barium sulfate, iron silicon alloys, possibly loaded with molybdenum, Cu2MnAl, MnBi, or a mixture of these, this list is not limiting.

When the composition comprises fibers containing magnetic particles, the latter may be present, for example, at least on the surface of the fiber, even on the surface of the fibers only, inside the fiber only or also be present. dispersed within the fiber in a substantially homogeneous manner.

The fibers can comprise, for example, a non-magnetic core with a plurality of magnetic particles on its surface.

The fibers can also comprise a synthetic matrix that contains a plurality of magnetic grains dispersed therein.

If necessary, a synthetic material charged with magnetic particles can itself be covered by a non-magnetic shell. Said crust constitutes, for example, an insulating barrier against the magnetic material (s) from the environment and / or can give color. The fibers can comprise a monolithic magnetic core and be covered by a non-magnetic shell, or it can be the reverse.

The composition can comprise fibers made by extrusion or co-extrusion of one or more polymeric materials, in particular thermoplastic and / or elastomeric materials. One of the extrudates may contain a charge of dispersed magnetic particles.

The fiber can comprise a synthetic material selected from among polyamides, PET, acetates, polyolefins, in particular PE or PP, PVC, amide block polyester, plasticized Rilsan®, elastomers, in particular polyester elastomers, PE elastomers, silicone elastomers , nitrile elastomers or a mixture of these materials, this list is not limiting.

The composition can contain composite fibers comprising a magnetic core at least partially covered by at least one non-magnetic, synthetic or natural material. Coating of the magnetic core can be carried out, for example, by co-extrusion, around the core, with a shell in a non-magnetic material.

Coating of the core can also be carried out in a different way, for example by polymerization in situ.

The core can be monolithic or comprise a charge of magnetic grains dispersed in a matrix.

The composition can also contain composite fibers obtained by coating with a synthetic material, charged with magnetic particles, a non-magnetic, synthetic or natural core, the core being composed, for example, of a wood fiber, of rayon, of polyamide, of a plant material, by polyolefin, in particular by polyethylene, by nylon®, by polyimide-amide, by aramid, this list is not limiting.

The composition can also comprise magnetic composite particles, in particular a magnetic latex.

Magnetic Composite Particles

A magnetic composite particle is a composite material made up of an organic or mineral matrix and magnetic grains. The magnetic composite particles can thus comprise grains of a magnetic material on their surface and / or inside. The composite particles can be constituted by a magnetic core covered by an organic or mineral matrix, or vice versa.

Magnetic composite particles comprise, for example, one of the aforementioned magnetic materials.

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The dimension of the magnetic composite particles is, for example, between 1 nm and 1 mm, better between 100 nm and 500 pm, still better between 500 nm and 100 pm. The term "dimension" designates the dimension given by the mean statistical granulometric distribution of the population, called D50.

The thesis of C. GOUBAULT, March 23, 2004, incorporated herein by reference, recalls in Chapter 1 the state of the art in the field of magnetic composite particles, and draws up a list of preparation procedures that can be used to prepare composite particles magnetic, namely a separate synthesis of the magnetic grains and the matrix, a synthesis of the magnetic grains in contact with the matrix or a synthesis of the matrix in the presence of the magnetic grains.

The KISKER company markets magnetic particles made of a mineral matrix, composed of silica. The companies DYNAL, SERADYN, ESTAPOR and ADEMTECH propose magnetic particles composed of an organic matrix, which can also be used in the invention.

More particularly, the company ESTAPOR markets under the reference M1-070 / 60 some magnetic latexes made up of grains of ferrite evenly distributed in a polystyrene matrix, this latex comprising 65% iron oxide, the mean diameter of the particles being 890 nm polystyrene, and the dry matter mass content of 10%.

Ferrofluid

The first composition can comprise a ferrofluid, that is, a stable colloidal suspension of magnetic particles, in particular of magnetic nanoparticles.

The particles, of a size, for example, of the order of a few tens of nanometers, are dispersed in a solvent (water, oil, organic solvent), either with the aid of a surfactant or a dispersing agent, or by means of electrostatic interactions.

Ferrofluids are prepared, for example, by grinding ferrites or other magnetic particles until nanoparticles are obtained, which are then dispersed in a fluid containing a surfactant, which is adsorbed on the particles and stabilizes them, or by precipitation in a basic medium of a solution of metal ions.

Each particle of the ferrofluid has a magnetic moment determined by the size of the particle and by the nature of the magnetic material.

Under the action of a magnetic field, the magnetic moments of the particles tend to align themselves along the lines of the field, with the appearance of a non-zero magnetization in the liquid. If the field is canceled, there is no hysteresis and the magnetization is canceled.

Beyond a threshold value of the field, macroscopic changes in the liquid can also be caused, for example, the appearance of peaks or a change in the rheological properties.

The designation "ferrofluid" also encompasses an emulsion of ferrofluid droplets in a solvent. Each drop then contains colloidal magnetic particles in stable suspension. This makes it possible to have a ferrofluid in any type of solvent. The dimension of the magnetic particles suspended in the ferrofluid is, for example, between 1 nm and 10 pm, better between 1 nm and 1 pm, even better between 1 nm and 100 nm. The term "dimension" designates the dimension determined by the mean statistical particle size distribution of the population, called D50.

In particular, the ferrofluids marketed by the company LIQUIDS RESEARCH LTD can be cited with the references:

• WHKS1S9 (A, B or C), which is a water-based ferrofluid comprising magnetite (Fe3O4), which has particles of 10 nm in diameter.

• WHJS1 (A, B or C), which is an isoparaffin-based ferrofluid and magnetite particles (Fe3O4), 10 nm in diameter.

• BKS25_dextran, which is a dextran-stabilized water-based ferrofluid, comprising magnetite (Fe3O4) particles, 9 nm in diameter.

Strings of magnetic particles and / or fibers

The composition can also comprise chains of magnetic particles and / or fibers.

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The composition can thus comprise agglomerates of particles or fibers of which the largest dimension, for example the length, is comprised for example between 1 nm and 10 mm, for example between 10 nm and 5 mm, or between 100 nm and 1 mm, or also between 0.5 pm and 3.5 mm, for example between 1 pm and 150 pm. The dimension designates that given by the mean statistical granulometric distribution of the population, called D50.

Magnetic particle chains can be obtained, for example, by joining colloidal magnetic particles, as described in the publications "Permanently linked monodisperse paramagnetic chains, EM Furst, C. Suzuki, M. Fermigier, AP Gast, Langmuir, 14, 7334-7336 (1998), “Suspensions de particules magnétiques, M. Fermigier, Y. Grasselli, SFP Bulletin (105) July 1996, and“ Flexible magnetic filaments as micromechanical sensors ”, C. Goubault, P. Jop , M. Fermigier, J. Baudry, E. Bertrand, J. Bibette, Phys. Rev. Lett., 91, 26, 260802-1 to 260802-4 (2003), the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

These articles describe in particular how to proceed to obtain chains of magnetic latex particles comprising a polystyrene matrix containing surface-functionalized grains of iron oxide, permanently joined together as a result of a chemical reaction. in particular covalent bonds between the surfaces of the adjacent particles; Also described is a process for obtaining chains of ferrofluid emulsion droplets, linked together by means of interactions of a physical nature. The length as well as the diameter of the permanent chains obtained in this way can be controlled. Said magnetic chains constitute orientable and displaceable anisotropic magnetic objects under the effect of a magnetic field.

The dimensions of magnetic chains can respond to the same conditions as magnetic fibers.

In an exemplary embodiment of the invention, the first composition contains at least one goniochromatic coloring agent that makes it possible to observe a color change as a function of the angle of observation. This goniochromatic coloring agent may or may not be magnetic.

When the first composition contains magnetic particles of a certain color and a non-magnetic goniochromatic coloring agent, the latter can be selected such that the color path passes substantially through the color of the magnetic particles.

This can make it possible, for example, to make magnetic particles more difficult to detect in the absence of their orientation under the effect of a magnetic field.

This can also make it possible to make the motif induced by the orientation of the magnetic particles appear only under certain conditions of observation and / or illumination of the made-up support, which can make it possible to create particularly attractive effects of appearance and arrangement of the motif.

Goniochromatic coloring agents

By the term goniochromatic coloring agent is meant, in the sense of the present invention, a coloring agent that makes it possible to obtain, when the composition is spread on a support, a color path in the a * b * plane of the CIE colorimetric space 1976, which corresponds to a variation Dh of the color angle h of at least 20 ° when the angle of observation is varied with respect to the normal between 0 ° and 80 °, for an angle of incidence of light of 45 °.

The color path can be measured by, for example, an INSTRUMENT SYSTEMS brand spectrogonioreflectometer and GON 360 GONIOMETeR reference, after the first composition has been spread in the fluid state with a thickness of 300 pm by means of an automatic extender. on a contrasting cardboard of the ERICHSEN brand and of reference Typ 24/5, being the measurement carried out on the black background of the cardboard.

The goniochromatic coloring agent can be selected, for example, from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

In the case of a multilayer structure, it can comprise, for example, at least two layers, each layer being made, for example, from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pt, Va, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, S2O3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O₅, Ta2O₅, TiO2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their associations.

The multilayer structure may or may not have, with respect to a central layer, a symmetry at the level of the chemical nature of the stacked layers. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained.

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Some examples of symmetric interferential multilayer structures are, for example, the following structures: Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, a pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name XIRONA by the company MERCK (Darmstadt).

Liquid crystal coloring agents comprise, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted. As goniochromatic particles of liquid crystals, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by the CHENIX company as well as those sold under the name HELICoNe® HC by the WACKER company.

As goniochromatic coloring agent, certain nacres, pigments with effects on synthetic substrate, in particular substrate of the alumina, silica, borosilicate type, iron oxide, aluminum or interferential holographic flakes derived from a polyterephthalate film can also be used.

The ratio between the mass proportion of magnetic pigments and the proportion of goniochromatic coloring agent is, for example, between 1/4 and 4, for example between 1/2 and 2, for example close to 1.

The material may further comprise dispersed goniochromatic fibers. Said fibers may have a length of less than 80 pm, for example.

The first composition can also comprise at least one diffraction pigment, which can have magnetic properties, if necessary.

Diffracting pigments

By the term "diffraction pigment" is meant in the sense of the present invention a pigment capable of producing a color variation according to the angle of observation when illuminated by white light, due to the presence of a structure that diffracts light.

A diffraction pigment may comprise a diffraction grating capable, for example, of diffracting an incident monochromatic ray of light in defined directions.

The diffraction grating may comprise a periodic pattern, in particular a line, the distance between two adjacent patterns being of the same size order as the wavelength of the incident light.

When the incident light is polychromatic, the diffraction grating will separate the different spectral components of the light and produce a rainbow effect.

It may be useful to refer as regards the structure of diffraction pigments to the article Pigments Exhibiting Diffractive Effects by Alberto Argoita and Matt Witzman, 2002, Society of Vacuum coaters, 45 ° Annual Technical Conference Proceedings 2002.

The diffraction pigment can be made with patterns having different profiles, in particular triangular, symmetrical or not, honeycomb, of constant width or not, sinusoidal.

The spatial frequency of the lattice and the depth of the motifs will be selected depending on the degree of separation of the different desired orders. The frequency can vary for example between 500 and 3000 lines per mm.

Preferably, the diffraction pigment particles each have a flattened shape, and in particular are platelet-shaped.

The same pigment particle can comprise two crossed diffraction gratings, perpendicular or not.

The diffraction pigment may have a multilayer structure comprising a layer of a reflective material, covered at least on one side by a layer of dielectric material. The latter can confer better stiffness and durability to the diffraction pigment. The dielectric material can then be selected for example from the following materials: MgF2, SO2, A ^ Pe, AlFe, CeF3, LaF3, NdF3, SmF2, BaF2, CaF2, LiF and their associations. The reflective material can be selected for example from metals and their alloys and also from non-metallic reflective materials. Among the metals that can be used, mention may be made of Al, Ag, Cu, Au, Pt, Sn, Ti, Pd, Ni, Co, Rd, Nb, Cr and their materials, associations or alloys. Said reflective material can, alone, constitute the diffraction pigment, which will then be monolayer.

As a variant, the diffraction pigment can comprise a multilayer structure comprising a core of a dielectric material coated with a reflective layer on at least one side, even covering

ES 2 393 790 T3 completely the core. A layer of a dielectric material can also cover the reflective layer (s). The dielectric material used is then preferably inorganic, and can be selected, for example, from metal fluorides, metal oxides, metal sulfides, metal nitrides, metal carbides, and their associations. The dielectric material can be in a crystalline, semi-crystalline or amorphous state. The dielectric material, in this configuration, can be selected from the following materials: MgF2, SiO, SiO2, Al2O3, TiO2, WO, AIN, BN, B4C, WC, TiC, TiN, N4SÍ3, ZnS, some glass particles, diamond-like carbons, and their associations.

As a variant, the diffraction pigment can be composed of a preformed dielectric or ceramic material such as a natural mineral or sheet, for example peroskovite mica or talc, or synthetic sheets formed from glass, aluminum, SiO₂, of carbon, of an iron oxide / mica, of mica coated with BN, with BC, with graphite, with bismuth oxychloride, and their associations.

Instead of a layer of a dielectric material, other materials that improve mechanical properties may be desirable. Said materials can comprise silicone, metallic silicides, semiconductor materials formed from elements of groups III, IV and V, metals having a centered cubic crystalline structure, cermet compositions or materials, semi-conductive glasses, and their varied associations.

The diffraction pigment used can be selected in particular from among those described in the American patent application US 2003/0031870 published on February 13, 2003.

A diffraction pigment may comprise, for example, the following structure: MgF2 / Al / MgF2, a diffraction pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver by the company FLEX pRoDUCTS, or SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver FG. The proportion by weight of MgF2 can be comprised between 80 and 95% of the total weight of the pigment.

The amount of diffraction pigment can vary, by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition, for example from 0.1 to 5%.

The dimension of the diffraction pigment can be, for example, between 5 and 200 pm, better between 5 and 100 pm, for example between 5 and 30 pm.

The thickness of the diffraction pigment particles can be less than or equal to 3 pm, better 2 pm, for example of the order of 1 pm.

Reflective particles

The first composition can comprise, for example, reflective particles, in particular flakes, inter alia, magnetic or not.

By the expression reflective particles, in the sense of the present invention, particles are designated whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer or layers that constitute them and their physical and chemical nature, in the surface state, allow them reflect incident light. This reflection can, if necessary, have a sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or the mixture, when it is applied on the support to be made up, brighter points visible to the naked eye, that is, more luminous points that contrast with their surroundings giving the impression that they shine.

The reflective particles can be selected in such a way that they do not significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents with which they are associated and more particularly in order to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.

The reflective particles can be present in the first composition in an amount comprised between 0.5% and 60% with respect to the total weight of the first composition, in particular between 1% and 30% by weight, in particular between 3% and 10%. % in weigh.

These particles can have various shapes, in particular be platelet-shaped or globular, in particular spherical.

The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.

When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they can be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular synthetic oxides of titanium or iron.

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When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they can comprise, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially covered by at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal. or a metallic material. The substrate can be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic.

More particularly, it can be selected from among glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica, and their mixtures, which is not ready. limiting.

The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or metallic material.

Reflective particles are described in particular in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

Still by way of example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a metal layer, mention may also be made of the particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver, also called white nacres.

Some particles of glass substrate coated with silver, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name of MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYaL. Nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy coated glass substrate particles are sold under the designation CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by this same company.

The reflective particles, whatever their shape, can also be selected from among the particles with a synthetic substrate coated at least partially with at least one layer of at least one metallic material, in particular metallic oxide, selected for example from among the oxides of titanium, in particular TiO2, of iron in particular Fe2O3, of tin, of chromium, barium sulfate and the following materials: MgF2, CrF3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO2, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, SeO3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2Os, Ta2O5, MoS2, and their mixtures or alloys.

By way of example of said particles, mention may be made, for example, of particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or glass particles coated with brown iron oxide, with titanium oxide, with tin oxide or with one of their mixes, such as those sold under the REFLECKS brand^® by ENGELHARD company.

The first composition according to the invention can comprise at least one mother-of-pearl, magnetic or not.

Mother-of-pearl

The term "nacre" should be understood to mean colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by some mollusks in their shells or synthesized and which have a color effect due to optical interference.

Mother-of-pearl pigments can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye in particular from type mentioned above as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring matter are superimposed.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, golden brown and / or copper color or reflection.

By way of illustration of nacres that can be introduced in the first composition, mention can be made of the gold-colored nacres marketed in particular by the ENGELHARD company under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica ), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres marketed in particular by the MERCK company under the name of Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name of Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres marketed in particular by the ENGELHARD company under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the MERCK company under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres marketed in particular by the ENGELHARD company under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the mother-of-pearl with a copper reflection marketed in particular by the ENGELHARD company under the name Copper 340A (Timica); mother-of-pearl with a red reflection marketed in particular by the MERCK company under the name of Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); nacres with a yellow reflection marketed in particular by the ENGELHARD company under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold reflection marketed in particular by the ENGELHARD company under the

ES 2 393 790 T3 designation of Sunstone GO 12 (Gemtone); the pink mother-of-pearl marketed in particular by the ENGELHARD company under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black mother-of-pearl with a gold reflection marketed in particular by the ENGELHARD company under the name of Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue mother-of-pearl marketed in particular by the MERCK company under the name of Matte blue (17433) (Microna), the white mother-of-pearl with a silver reflection marketed in particular by the MERCK company under the name Xirona Silver and the orange, pink, golden green marketed in particular by the MERCK company under the name of Indian summer (Xirona), and their mixtures.

The first composition can comprise, for example, at least one magnetic charge or not.

Loads

The term "filler" designates particles of any shape, insoluble in the composition medium, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. A filler can serve in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition. The nature and quantity of the particles will depend on the mechanical properties and the desired textures.

By way of example of fillers, mention may be made, among others, of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, sericite, polyamide powders, polyolefin powders, for example polyethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene, polymethylmethacrylate, polyurethane, starch powders and silicone resin balls.

The fillers can be designed to create, inter alia, a blurring effect, in particular in the case of a make-up base, in order to hide skin imperfections.

The first composition can also comprise colorants, organic pigments or lacquers.

Dyes, organic pigments or lacquers

The colorants can be fat-soluble or water-soluble.

Fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, P-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5 , quinoline yellow.

Water-soluble colorants are, for example, beet juice and methylene blue.

The colorants can represent, for example, 0.1 to 20% of the weight of the first or second composition, even 0.1 to 6%, when they are present.

Lacquers or organic pigments can be selected from the following materials and their mixtures:

- cochineal carmine,

- the organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthenic, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluoran,

- organic lacquers or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, of acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthenic, pyrene, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluorane, these dyes may comprise at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.

Among the organic pigments, mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D&C Blue # 4, D&C Brown # 1, D&C Green # 5, D&C Green # 6, D&C Orange # 4, D&C Orange # 5, D&C Orange # 10, D&C Orange # 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red # 33, D&C Red # 34, D&C Red # 36, D&C Violet # 2, D&C Yellow # 7, D&C Yellow # 8, D&C Yellow # 10, D&C Yellow # 11, FD&C Blue # 1, FD&C Green # 3, FD&C Red # 40, FD&C Yellow # 5, FD&C Yellow # 6.

The organic coloring matter can comprise an organic lacquer supported by an organic support such as colophane or aluminum benzoate, for example.

Among the organic lacquers, mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D&C Red # 2 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 3 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 6 Barium lake, D&C Red # 6 Barium / Strontium lake, D&C Red no.6 Strontium lake, D&C Red no.6 Potassium lake, D&C Red no.7 Aluminum lake, D&C Red no.7 Barium lake, D&C Red no.7 Calcium lake, D&C Red no.7 Calcium / Strontium lake, D&C Red # 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red # 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red # 9 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 9 Barium lake, D&C Red # 9 Barium / Strontium lake, D&C Red # 9 Zirconium lake, D&C Red # 10

ES 2 393 790 T3

Sodium lake, D&C Red # 19 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 19 Barium lake, D&C Red # 19 Zirconium lake, D&C Red # 21 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 21 Zirconium lake, D&C Red # 22 Aluminum lake , D&C Red # 27 Aluminum lake, D&C Red # 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium lake, D&C Red # 27 Barium lake, D&C Red # 27 Calcium lake, D&C Red # 27 Zirconium lake, D&C Red # 28 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 30 lake, D&C Red n ° 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red n ° 33 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red # 36 lake, D&C Red # 40 Aluminum lake, D&C Blue # 1 Aluminum lake, D&C Green # 3 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange # 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange # 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Orange # 10 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange # 17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow # 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow # 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow # 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow # 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow n ° 10 Aluminum lake, FD&C Blue n ° 1 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red n ° 4 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red n ° 40 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow n ° 5 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow n ° 6 Aluminum lake.

The chemical materials that correspond to each of the organic coloring matters mentioned above are mentioned in the International Cosmetic Ingrédient Dictionnary and Handbook, 1997 Edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference.

The first composition can comprise a composite pigment.

Compound pigments

The composite pigment can be composed in particular of particles comprising:

- an inorganic core, magnetic or not,

- at least one at least partial coating of at least one organic coloring matter.

At least one binder can advantageously contribute to the fixation of the organic coloring matter on the inorganic core.

Composite pigment particles can have various shapes. These particles can be in particular platelet-shaped or globular, in particular spherical, and be hollow or solid. By platelet shape, we designate particles whose ratio between the greatest dimension and the thickness is greater than or equal to 5.

A composite pigment can have, for example, a specific surface area between 1 and 1000 μm.²/ g, in particular between 10 and 600 m²/ g approximately, and in particular between 20 and 400 m²/ g approximately. The specific surface is the value measured by the BET method.

The inorganic core of the composite pigment can be of any convenient shape for the fixation of particles of organic coloring matter, for example spherical, globular, granular, polyhedral, acicular, spindle-shaped, flattened in the shape of a flake, rice grain, flake, as well as a combination of these forms, this list is not limiting.

The ratio between the largest dimension of the core and its smallest dimension can be between 1 and 50.

The inorganic core can have a dimension between approximately 1 nm and approximately 100 nm, even between approximately 5 nm and approximately 75 nm, for example between approximately 10 nm and approximately 50 nm.

The inorganic core can be made of a material selected from the non-limiting list that includes metal salts and metal oxides, in particular oxides of titanium, zirconium, cerium, zinc, iron, ferric blue, aluminum. and of chromium, aluminas, glasses, ceramics, graphite, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica, and their mixtures.

The oxides of titanium, in particular TiO2, of iron, in particular Fe2O₃Of cerium, zinc and aluminum, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, are very particularly suitable.

The inorganic core can have a specific surface area, measured by the BET method, comprised for example between approximately 1 m²/ g and about 1000 m²/ g, better between about 10 m²/ g and about 600 m²/ g, for example between approximately 20 m²/ g and about 400 m²/ g.

The inorganic core can be colored, if necessary.

The organic coloring matter can be as defined above.

The binder of the composite pigment can be of any type as long as it allows the organic coloring matter to adhere to the surface of the inorganic core.

ES 2 393 790 T3

The binder can be selected in particular from a non-limiting list comprising silicone materials, polymeric, oligomeric or similar materials, and in particular from organosilanes, fluoroalkylated organosilanes and polysiloxanes, for example polymethylhydrogenosiloxane, as well as various agents. coupling agents, such as silane-, titanate-, aluminate-, zircona-based coupling agents, and mixtures thereof.

The coloring agent may comprise a photochromic coloring matter or photochromic agent.

Photochromic Agents

In general, a photochromic coloring agent is a coloring agent that has the property of changing color when illuminated by ultraviolet light and restoring its initial color when it is no longer illuminated by this light or also passing from a non-colored state to a colored state and inversely. In other words, said agent has different colors depending on whether it is illuminated by a light that contains a certain amount of UV radiation as in sunlight or artificial light.

Reference may be made to the examples of photochromic agents described in EP 1 410 786.

Thermochromic agents

For example, the thermochromic agent marketed under the reference KROMAFAST YELLOW 5GX 02- by the company kRoMaCHEM LTD can be used.

Other coloring agents

The first composition can also comprise piezochromic compounds, in particular tribochromic or solvatochromic.

Other components

Typically, the cosmetic composition comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is non-toxic and capable of being applied to the skin, phaneros or lips of human beings. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied as well as to the form in which the composition is packaged.

The first composition can comprise other ingredients different from those described above, in particular at least one solvent, a fatty phase, a film-forming polymer and / or a dermatological or cosmetic active, in particular depending on the galenic form.

Solvents

The first composition can contain at least one aqueous or organic solvent.

The first composition may advantageously contain a volatile solvent, in particular a volatile organic solvent.

In the sense of the present invention, a volatile solvent is understood as a liquid solvent at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure between 0, 13 Pa and 40,000 Pa (10^-3 and 300 mm Hg), and preferably between 1.3 Pa and 13,000 Pa (0.01 and 100 mm Hg), and preferably between 1.3 Pa and 1300 Pa (0.01 and 10 mm Hg).

When the first composition comprises one or more organic solvents, these solvents can be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 99%, with respect to the total weight of the composition in question.

In general, the amount of solvent (s), in particular organic (s), will depend on the nature of the support on which the composition is intended to be applied.

The first composition can comprise at least one volatile solvent consisting of a volatile oil.

The oil can be a silicone oil or a hydrocarbon oil, or comprise a mixture of these oils.

In the sense of the present invention, silicone oil is understood to be an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular a Si-O group.

ES 2 393 790 T3

The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to be an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorous atoms.

Volatile hydrocarbon oils can be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4 , 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPARS® or PERMETHYLS®.

As volatile oils, volatile silicones can also be used, such as volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity <8 centistokes (8 x 10^-6 m²/ s), and in particular having 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl- trisiloxane, hexamethyl-disiloxane, octamethyl-trisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl-pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and their mixtures.

The composition may comprise between 0.01% and 95% by weight of volatile oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, better from 1% to 75% by weight.

The first composition can comprise at least one organic solvent selected from the following list:

- liquid ketones at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone, acetone;

- liquid alcohols at room temperature such as ethanol, isopropanol, diacetone-alcohol, 2-butoxyethanol, cyclohexanol;

- glycols liquid at room temperature, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol;

- propylene glycol ethers liquid at room temperature such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, dipropylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether;

- short chain esters (having 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, isopentyl acetate;

- liquid alkanes at room temperature such as decane, heptane, dodecane, cyclohexane.

The first composition can also comprise water or a mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents commonly used in cosmetics such as alcohols and in particular linear or branched lower monoalcohols having 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, polyols such as glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols. The first composition may further contain hydrophilic C2 ethers and C2-C4 aldehydes. The water or the mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents can be present in the first and / or the second composition in an amount comprised between, for example, between 0% and 90%, in particular between 0.1% and 90%. % by weight and preferably between 0% and 60% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fat phase

The first composition, for example when it is intended to be applied to the lips, can contain a fatty phase and in particular at least one liquid fatty substance at room temperature (25 ° C) and / or a solid fatty substance at room temperature such such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and their mixtures. The fatty phase can also contain lipophilic organic solvents.

The first composition can, for example, have a continuous fatty phase, which can contain less than 5% water, in particular less than 1% water with respect to its total weight and in particular be in anhydrous form.

As liquid fatty substances at room temperature, frequently referred to as oils, mention may be made of: vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids with 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or also oils of sunflower, corn, soybean, grape seed, sesame, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado, triglycerides from

ES 2 393 790 T3 caprylic / capric acids, jojoba oil, shea butter, lanolin, acetylated lanolin; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam; synthetic esters and ethers in particular of fatty acids such as purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octi-2-dodecyl erucate , isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl-lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisotearylmalate, triisocetyl citrate, some heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; isononyl isonanoate, isopropyl lanolate, tridecyl trimellilate, diisotearyl malate; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and the pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol; partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils; silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), volatile or not, linear or cyclic, liquid or pasty at room temperature such as cyclomethicones, dimethicones, possibly containing a phenyl group, such as phenyl-trimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenylmethyldimethyl -trisiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, phenyl-dimethicones, polymethylphenyl-siloxanes; their mixes. The oils can be present in an amount comprised between 0.01 and 90%, and better still between 0.1 and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The presence of an oily phase can impart shine and have, for example, a refractive index of between 1.47 and 1.51, better between 1.48 and 1.50. The refractive index is measured at room temperature (25 ° C) with the aid of a refractometer.

The first composition can comprise a pasty fatty substance, a wax or a gum.

The pasty fatty substances are generally hydrocarbon compounds with a melting point between 25 and 60 ° C, preferably between 30 and 45 ° C, and / or a hardness between 0.001 and 0.5 MPa, preferably between 0.005 and 0, 4 MPa, such as lanolins and their derivatives.

Waxes can be solid at room temperature (25 ° C), with a reversible solid / liquid change, having a melting temperature higher than 30 ° C and can reach up to 200 ° C, a hardness higher than 0.5 MPa, and presenting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. In particular, waxes can have a melting temperature higher than 25 ° C and better than 45 ° C. The waxes can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. As waxes that can be used, mention may be made of beeswax, Carnauba or Candelilla wax, paraffin, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene or Fischer Tropsch waxes, silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy-dimethicone having 16 to 45 carbon atoms. The composition may contain from 0 to 50% by weight of waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition, even from 1 to 30% by weight.

The gums that can be used are generally high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or cellulose gums or polysaccharides.

Film-forming polymers

The first composition can contain, for example, a film-forming polymer, in particular in the case of a mask or a nail polish. Film-forming polymer refers to a polymer capable of forming, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials.

Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the first composition according to the invention, mention may be made, among others, of synthetic polymers, radical type or polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, such as nitrocellulose or cellulose esters. , and their mixtures.

The film-forming polymers of the radical type can in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

Vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers that have at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers such as α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid.

Vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers selected from vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butylbenzoate, and styrenic monomers, such as styrene, and alpha-methylstyrene.

ES 2 393 790 T3

Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, amide polyesters, polyamides, and polyureas, or this list is limiting.

Polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, can be selected from shellac resin, watermelon gum, damars, elemies, copals, cellulosic polymers, such as nitrocellulose, ethylcellulose or selected nitrocellulose esters. , for example, from among cellulose acetate, cellulose acetobutyrate, cellulose acetopropionate, and mixtures thereof.

The film-forming polymer can be present in the form of solid particles in an aqueous or oily dispersion, generally known by the name of latex or pseudo-latex. The film-forming polymer can comprise one or more stable dispersions of generally spherical polymer particles of one or more polymers, in a physiologically acceptable liquid fatty phase. These dispersions are generally called polymer NAD (Non-Aqueous Dispersion) as opposed to latexes which are aqueous polymer dispersions. These dispersions can in particular be in the form of polymer nanoparticles in stable dispersion in said fatty phase. The nanoparticles preferably have a size between 5 and 600 nm. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

As aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, acrylic dispersions sold under the names NEOCRYL XK-90®, NEOCRYL A-1070®, NEOCRYL A-1090®, NEOCRYL BT-62®, NEOCRYL A1079 can be used.^®, NEOCRYL A-523^® by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, DOW LATEX 432^® by the company DOW CHEMICAL, DAITOSOL 5000 AD^® by the DAITO KASEI KOGYO company; or also the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names NEOREZ R-981®, NEOREZ R-974® by the company AVECIANEORESINS, the AVALURE UR-405®, AVALURE UR-410® AVALURE UR-425®, AVALURE UR-450® , SANCURE 875®, SANCURE 861®, SANCURE 878®, SANCURE 2060® by GOODRICH company, IMPRANIL 85® by BAYER company, AQUAMERE H-1511^® by the HYDROMER company; sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ by the Eastman Chemical Products Company.

The first composition according to the invention may also comprise an auxiliary film-forming agent that promotes the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer.

Active agents

The first composition can comprise at least one cosmetic or dermatological active agent. As cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical active agents, which can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of moisturizers (polyol such as glycerin), vitamins (C, A, E, F, B or PP), fatty acids essential oils, ceramides, sphingolipids, fat-soluble sunscreens or in nanoparticle form, specific active agents for skin treatment (protective, antibacterial, anti-wrinkle agents, etc.), self-tanning agents. These active agents can be used, for example, at concentrations from 0 to 20% and in particular from 0.001 to 15% with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The first composition may also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as, for example, thickeners, surfactants, trace elements, moisturizers, softeners, sequestrants, perfumes, alkalizing or acidifying agents, preservatives, antioxidants, UV filters, dyes, or their mixtures.

The first composition according to the invention can comprise, depending on the type of intended application, the constituents conventionally used in the fields considered, which are present in an appropriate quantity for the desired dosage form.

Galenic forms

The first composition can be presented in various forms, depending on its destination. The first composition can thus be presented in any galenic form normally used for topical application and in particular in anhydrous form, in the form of an oily or aqueous solution, of an oily or aqueous gel, of an oil-in-water, water-in-water emulsion. oil, wax in water, water in wax, multiple emulsion, dispersion of oil in water thanks to vesicles located at the oil / water interface.

The first composition can be in the form of a powder or else a gel.

Magnetic devices

The magnetic device can comprise a permanent magnet or an electromagnet, powered for example by at least one battery or an accumulator. In the latter case, the magnetic device can comprise a switch that makes it possible to selectively supply the electromagnet with electricity.

ES 2 393 790 T3

The magnetic device may be arranged to create a magnetic field whose orientation varies over time. When the magnetic device comprises a magnet, the device may, for example, comprise a motor that makes it possible to drive the magnet in rotation. As a variant, the magnetic device may comprise a number of solenoids arranged so as to generate, when sequentially powered by electricity, a rotating magnetic field.

A rotating magnetic field can, for example, make it possible to obtain a pattern exhibiting a symmetry of revolution, for example a pattern that gives the impression of a sphere in relief.

The electromagnet (s) can be powered permanently or intermittently, to suit the user. In particular, the magnetic device can be arranged in such a way that the electromagnet (s) may not be powered as long as the magnetic device is not correctly positioned close to the support coated with the first composition.

The magnetic field is, for example, at least 50 mT, even at least 66 mT.

In order to make the application of the magnetic field easier, the magnetic device can comprise a member that allows it to be positioned with respect to the support on which the first composition has been deposited. This can, for example, make it possible to prevent the magnetic device from accidentally coming into contact with the composition and / or to center the pattern made on the area in question.

In an exemplary embodiment of the invention, the magnetic device is integral with an applicator that is used to apply the first cosmetic composition. This can make it possible to reduce the number of objects handled by the user and to facilitate makeup.

In another example of embodiment of the invention, the magnetic device comprises a magnet mounted on a first end of a stem, the second end of which is attached to a gripping member of an applicator that is used to apply the first cosmetic composition.

The magnetic field can also be exerted by means of a magnetic structure, particularly flexible, comprising an alternation of N and S poles. Said structure can, for example, make it possible to make repetitive patterns on the first composition, for example lines.

Kit to perform the procedure

The object of the invention is thus, according to another of its aspects, a kit for carrying out the procedure as defined above, comprising:

- a non-magnetic cosmetic applicator,

- a magnetic device that makes it possible to generate a magnetic field,

- a cosmetic composition comprising magnetic particles moving under the effect of a magnetic field.

The magnetic device may be capable of creating a magnetic field capable, when keratin materials coated with a deposit of the composition are introduced into the magnetic field, of modifying the orientation and / or the position of the magnetic bodies inside the deposit.

The magnetic device can be arranged to generate a magnetic field strong enough to be able to modify the orientation and / or position of the magnetic particles within the first composition after application on a support such as the skin, mucous membranes or phaneros, in order to change its appearance.

The magnetic field is exerted for example shortly after deposition, in order to change the appearance of the first composition before it is dried, when the first composition comprises a volatile solvent.

The first composition can be, for example, a nail polish, a make-up base or a lipstick, and have the characteristics as defined above.

The magnetic device can be as defined above.

The kit may comprise a box that houses the first cosmetic composition and the magnetic device. In this case, the box can comprise, for example, a plurality of magnets of different shapes to realize different patterns.

ES 2 393 790 T3

The kit can also comprise a second cosmetic composition to be applied on the first or on the support before applying the first composition.

Second cosmetic composition to be applied on the first or destined to be covered by the first

The second composition can be transparent or intended, for example, to be applied to the lips, nails or the skin. It may comprise at least one of the components described above for the first composition.

The second composition may or may not be colored in particular. This second composition may comprise a coloring agent in order to create a colored base, in particular when it is intended to be covered by the first one.

Examples

The invention will become more clearly apparent from the following detailed description, from non-limiting examples of its embodiment, as well as from an examination of the attached drawings, in which:

- figure 1 represents, schematically, an example of a kit according to the invention,

figure 2 represents, in axial, schematic and partial section, the magnetic device of figure 1,

- Figures 3 and 4 illustrate, schematically, the use of the kit,

- Figure 5 represents an example of a pattern that can be obtained thanks to the invention,

- figure 6 represents, schematically, a container containing a second composition that can be applied to the support,

- Figure 7 represents in isolation, schematically, another example of a magnetic device that can be used,

figure 8 schematically represents the magnetic device of figure 7 equipped with a member for positioning the magnet in front of the made-up support,

- Figures 9 and 10 schematically represent other examples of kit according to the invention,

- figure 11 illustrates the use of the kit of figure 10,

Figure 12 represents in elevation and in isolation, schematically, an example of an applicator attached to a magnetic device,

- figure 13 is an axial and schematic section of another example of kit according to the invention,

- figure 14 schematically represents another example of a kit according to the invention,

- figure 15 represents another example of a device for conditioning the first composition,

figure 16 represents an openwork mask that can be used during the application of the method according to the invention, and

FIG. 17 represents a magnetic sheet that can be used during the performance of the method according to the invention.

In the figures, magnetic particles are represented in the form of dots for clarity of the drawing, but in reality the particles may not be individually visible to the naked eye.

Figure 1 shows a kit 1 comprising a first cosmetic composition C1 comprising magnetic particles P whose orientation and / or position determine the appearance of the composition after depositing on a support such as the skin, mucous membranes or phaneros or also false nails.

In the illustrated example, the composition C1 is a nail polish contained in a container 2 closed by a cap 3. The latter supports a cosmetic applicator 4, non-magnetic, which contains an application member 5 constituted by a brush that allows the application of the polish on the nails.

ES 2 393 790 T3

Kit 1 also comprises a magnetic device 10 that makes it possible to generate a magnetic field useful for modifying the appearance of the first composition C₁, without contact with it.

In the example considered, the magnetic device 10 comprises a permanent magnet 12 supported by a holding member 13 with a longitudinal axis X, the polar axis of the magnet 12 being substantially perpendicular to the axis X.

In the example considered, the magnetic device 10 is arranged to generate a rotating magnetic field and comprises a non-apparent motor, housed in a box 15, to drive the holding member 13 in rotation around its X axis.

A switch 16 is present in the box 15 to allow the user to start the motor and to drive the maintenance member 13 with the magnet 12 in rotation.

In a variant embodiment not illustrated, the rotating magnetic field is generated by a plurality of solenoids fed sequentially in order to generate a rotating field.

To use kit 1, the user can start, as illustrated in figure 3, by applying the first composition C1 to the support to be made up S, in this case a nail, with the help of applicator 4.

In the further step illustrated in Figure 4, the user carries the magnetic device 10 over a central area R of the support S and operates the switch 16 in order to rotate the magnet 12.

The magnetic particles contained in the first composition C1 tend to align with the field lines of the magnet 12 and change their orientation, which leads to a modification of the appearance of the composition C1.

The user can select the duration of application of the magnetic field depending on the desired result.

The pattern obtained can, for example, give the impression of a sphere in relief, as illustrated in figure 5.

If necessary, the user can apply a second composition C2, for example a transparent enamel, contained in a container shown in Figure 6, once the first composition C1 has dried.

The application of this second composition C2 can make it possible to create an additional depth effect, for example.

The first composition C1 can have, in the example of the nail polish of Figures 1 to 5, the following formulation, the amounts being expressed in all the following examples in mass fractions.

Example A

<td>Nitrocellulose</td><td> 11</td>

<td>N-ethyl o, p-toluenesulfonamide</td><td> 5</td>

<td>Alkyd resin</td><td> 10</td>

<td>Isopropanol</td><td> 4</td>

<td>Magnetic pigments *</td><td> 0,5</td>

<td>Butyl acetate / ethyl acetate 50/50</td><td>Csp100</td>

<td colspan="2">* Nacres containing at least 14% of the reference Fe3O4 COLORONA PATINA GOLD (117288) marketed by the MERCK company.</td>

The appearance of such nail polish can be modified by applying a magnetic field, before the polish has had time to dry.

When a second composition C2 is applied over the first, it has, for example, the following formulation.

Example B

<td>Nitrocellulose</td><td> 11</td>

<td>N-ethyl o, p-toluenesulfonamide</td><td> 5</td>

<td>Alkyd resin</td><td> 10</td>

<td>Isopropanol</td><td> 4</td>

<td>Butyl acetate / ethyl acetate 50/50</td><td>Csp100</td>

Such a composition can make it possible to create an additional depth effect.

ES 2 393 790 T3

As a variant, the second composition can be intended to create a colored base, being applied before the first. The second composition then has, for example, the following formulation.

Example C

<td>Nitrocellulose</td><td> 11</td>

<td>N-ethyl o, p-toluenesulfonamide</td><td> 5</td>

<td>Alkyd resin</td><td> 10</td>

<td>Isopropanol</td><td> 4</td>

<td>DC RED7 CI 15850 Pigment</td><td> 2</td>

<td>Butyl acetate / ethyl acetate 50/50</td><td>Csp100</td>

The composition of Example A comprises only one type of magnetic pigments.

The following example illustrates the possibility of having magnetic pigments and other coloring matter in the composition, for example by means of pigments with variable optical effects, in this case goniochromatic pigments.

Example D

<td>Nitrocellulose</td><td> 11</td>

<td>N-ethyl o, p-toluenesulfonamide</td><td> 5</td>

<td>Alkyd resin</td><td> 10</td>

<td>Isopropanol</td><td> 4</td>

<td>COLORONA BLACKSTAR GOLD, MERCK® (magnetic pigments)</td><td> 2,5</td>

<td>SICOPEARL FANTASTICO ROSE, BASF® (goniochromatic pigments)</td><td> 2,5</td>

<td>Butyl acetate / ethyl acetate 50/50</td><td>Csp100</td>

The magnetic pigment is, in this example, gold in color, this color being present in the color path of the goniochromatic pigment.

Without magnetic excitation, the mixture exhibits a goniochromatic effect for no apparent reason, the goniochromatic effect does not quench the color of the magnetic pigment. You can see a surface with a base color ranging from gold to pink.

On the contrary, after the application of a magnetic field, the magnetic pigments that are aligned on the field lines create a pattern that is superimposed on the change in color contributed by the goniochromatic pigment. A gold colored motif, obtained thanks to the oriented magnetic pigment particles, can thus appear on a pink background for certain orientation conditions of the observation and / or of the made-up support.

Other pigments with optical effects can be used, in particular diffraction pigments as in the following example

Example E

<td>Nitrocellulose</td><td> 11</td>

<td>N-ethyl o, p-toluenesulfonamide</td><td> 5</td>

<td>Alkyd resin</td><td> 10</td>

<td>Isopropanol</td><td> 4</td>

<td>Magnetic pigments *</td><td> 0,5</td>

<td>Diffracting optical effect pigments *</td><td> 3%</td>

<td>Butyl acetate / ethyl acetate 50/50</td><td>Csp100</td>

<td colspan="2">* Nacres containing at least 14% of the reference Fe3O4 COLORONA PATINA GOLD (117288) marketed by the MERCK company. ** Pigments marketed under the name of SPECTRAFLAIR by the company FLEX PRODUCTS.</td>

Obviously, the magnetic field applied to the composition, whatever its nature, can be other than rotating. By way of example, figure 7 shows a magnetic device comprising a permanent magnet 12 in the shape of a bar at its end.

When the magnetic field is not rotating, the user can, for example, move the magnet near the first composition depending on the desired result.

The magnetic device, whatever it may be, may comprise a member that allows it to be positioned with respect to the support S.

ES 2 393 790 T3

This positioning member serves, for example, to prevent the magnetic device from touching the composition while the magnetic field is exerted.

The positioning member can also serve to center the motif to be made with respect to the support S, for example the nail.

Depending on the nature of the support, the positioning member may take various forms, for example that of an extension 17 that offers a stop surface for the end of the finger, as illustrated in Figure 8.

Another example of kit 1 according to the invention has been represented in Figure 9, comprising a first composition C1, constituted in this example by a liquid lipstick or a lip gloss.

The applicator 4 comprises in this example a flocked terminal 20 supported by the cap 3 of the container 2.

The magnetic device 10 is presented, for example, in the form of a structure, for example made of plastic material loaded with magnetized particles, creating an alternation of N and S poles, which makes it possible to form repeated patterns on the support coated with the first composition. , for example some stripes.

In the case of a lipstick, composition C1 has, for example, the following formulation.

Example F

<td>Octyl-2 dodecanol</td><td> 10</td>

<td>Diterthiobutyl 4-hydroxytoluene</td><td> 0,07</td>

<td>Polybutene (95/5 monoolefins / isoparaffins) (PM: 2060)</td><td> 50</td>

<td>Isopropyl, iso-butyl, n-butyl p-hydroxybenzoates mixture (40/30/30)</td><td> 0,4</td>

<td>Pentaerythrityl tetra-iso-stearate</td><td> 11,33</td>

<td>Tridecyl tri-melitate</td><td> 13</td>

<td>2-decyl-tetradecanoic acid triglyceride (GUERBET C24)</td><td> 15</td>

<td>Magnetic pigments *</td><td> 0,2</td>

<td colspan="2">* Nacres containing at least 14% Fe3O4 marketed under the reference CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE GREEN 828 CB by the ENGELHARD company.</td>

Another kit 1 according to the invention is represented in FIG. 10. In this embodiment, kit 1 comprises a box 30 made up of a base body 31 and a cap 32 hinged on it.

The base body 31 comprises a compartment 33 that houses the composition C1 constituted, in the example illustrated, of a make-up base in pasty form.

The base body 31 comprises a housing 34 arranged to receive at least one magnet 12.

This magnet 12 can have, for example, an adhesive face 25 or any other mounting means that allows the user to attach it to the end of his finger in order to bring it close to the make-up area, for example an area of ​​the face, as shown. illustrated in figure 11.

After applying the first composition C1 to the skin, the user can, for example, modify its clarity by exposing it to the magnetic field generated by the magnet 12.

In the case of a make-up base, it has, for example, the following formulation.

Example G

<td>Magnesium sulphate</td><td> 1,5</td>

<td>Sodium carboximethylcelulose</td><td> 0,5</td>

<td>Hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium</td><td> 1</td>

<td>Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane</td><td> 16</td>

<td>Glycerol</td><td> 5</td>

<td>Polymethylcetyl-dimethyl-methysiloxane oxyethylene mixture, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) hexyl laurate</td><td> 9</td>

<td>Water</td><td> 31,6</td>

<td>Ethylene Glycol Acetyl Stearate Blend, Glyceryl Tri-Stearate</td><td> 0,3</td>

<td>Brown iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoylglutamate (97/3)</td><td> 1,58</td>

<td>Anatase titanium oxide coated with stearoylglutamate (97/3)</td><td> 18,17</td>

<td>Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoylglutamate (93/3)</td><td> 4,56</td>

<td>Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoylglutamate (97/3)</td><td> 0,69</td>

ES 2 393 790 T3

<td>Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 cst)</td><td> 6</td>

<td>Magnetic pigments *</td><td> 0,5</td>

<td>1,2-pentanediol</td><td> 3</td>

<td colspan="2">* Nacres with at least 14% Fe3O4 marketed by the Merck company under the TIMICA NU ANTIQUE BRONZE 240 AB reference.</td>

Regardless of the type of applicator, the magnet 12 can, if necessary, be incorporated into the applicator.

In the example of FIG. 12, the closing cap 3 is crowned by the magnet 12, on the side opposite the application member 5.

In the example of Figure 13, the magnet 12 is supported by a holding member 3 surmounted by a cap 51 and can be housed in a compartment 50 of the cap 3 in the absence of use, which allows the container 2 containing the first composition C1 to be closed. . The cap 51 serves to grip the magnet 12 and allows the compartment 50 to be closed.

It does not depart from the scope of the present invention when the magnetic field is generated by an electromagnet instead of a permanent magnet.

In figure 14, a kit 1 has been represented that comprises a container 2 constituted by a canister containing the first composition C1 and a magnetic device 10 comprising an electromagnet 40 at one end of a box 44 that houses the electrical supply.

A switch 45 allows the user to selectively power the electromagnet 40.

Various devices different from those just described can be used, which allow the composition C1 to be conditioned and / or distributed or applied.

The composition C1 can, for example, be deposited on the support S without applicator but in the form of a spray, for example using a pump 60 as illustrated in figure 15. The spray can also be generated by means of an airbrush or a pressurized container, for example.

An openwork mask 70, represented in FIG. 16 and comprising as an openwork a pattern 71, in the shape of a star in the illustrated example, can be interposed between the sprayer and the support to be made up.

A sheet 75 permeable to the magnetic field, pierced or not, can be interposed between the magnet 12 or the electromagnet 40 and the support S, in such a way that it modifies the geometry of the field lines and creates new effects.

Obviously, the invention is not limited to the examples just described.

For example, the kit can comprise a plurality of magnets having different shapes in order to make different patterns.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising a" is to be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one" and "comprised between" is to be understood as inclusive limits, unless otherwise specified.