Method for the shaping of hair including a step of applying a reducing composition and a heating step

0001The present invention relates to a process for treating hair fibres, as well as to the use of said process.

0002It is usual, to obtain the permanent deformation of the hair, to carry out initially the opening of the disulphide bonds of the keratin (cystine) using a composition containing a reducing agent, then after having preferably rinsed the hair, to subsequently reconstitute said disulphide bonds by applying to straightened hair or previously tensioned by suitable means such as curlers, an oxidizing composition also called fixer so as to give the hair the desired shape. This technique makes it possible indifferently to achieve either the waving of the hair, or their straightening, their crimping or their smoothing.

0003The reducing compositions that can be used for implementing the first step of these processes generally contain thiolated compounds, such as thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, thiolactic acid and glycerol monothioglycolate.

0004The concentration of reducing agents can be very high, often up to 15% by weight of the reducing composition.

0005Such a technique is not entirely satisfactory. Indeed, this technique is very effective in modifying the shape of the hair, but also very degrading for the hair fibers.

0006It has also been proposed to raise the temperature of the hair, between the reduction step and the fixing step, by means of a heating iron.

0007Thus, the patent application<patcit id="pcit0001" dnum="EP1584329A"><text>EP1584329</text></patcit> discloses a method for treating hair fibers without fixation comprising the following steps:<ul id="ul0001" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>application to the hair fibers of a reducing composition without ceramide, containing at least one reducing agent, the reducing agent(s) being chosen from thiols and representing less than 3% by weight of the total weight of the reducing composition if the composition does not contain no aminothiols, and less than 5% if the composition contains at least one aminothiol,</li><li>raising the temperature of the hair fibres, by means of a heating iron, to a temperature at least equal to 60° C., the raising of the temperature being carried out before or after the optional rinsing of the hair fibres.</li></ul>

0008However, such a technique still leads to insufficient shaping, to problems with residual odors and requires meticulous application of the iron.

0009The problem of the present invention is therefore to provide a process for treating hair fibers which overcomes the drawbacks of the prior art.

0010In particular, the aim of the present invention is to provide a process for treating hair fibers which makes it possible to modify the shape of the hair, to control the volume of the hair, to reduce frizz and to improve the cosmetic performance of the hair, in particular the softness, shine and detangling while better respecting the color of dyed hair.

0011It is also observed that the method according to the invention facilitates subsequent blow-drying or straightening of the hair and limits the resumption of volume to 1

0012Another object of the invention is to provide a process for shaping the hair which gives even more care to the hair, without leaving any residual odor on the latter after its implementation.

0013The Applicant has found that it was possible to remedy the drawbacks of the prior art and to fulfill the aforementioned objectives, by implementing a method for treating hair fibers without fixing comprising a step of applying to the hair fibers a reducing composition, containing at least one reducing agent associated with a cationic polymer, then a step of raising the temperature of the hair fibers, by means of a heating iron, at a temperature at least equal to 50° C., the rise in temperature being carried out before or after the optional rinsing of the hair fibers, this method comprising the application of a care composition, preferably leave-in, comprising a or more amino silicones.

0014Thus, the subject of the invention is a process for shaping hair fibers comprising the following steps:<ol id="ol0001" compact="compact" ol-style=""><li>(i) application to the hair fibers of a reducing composition, comprising one or more cationic polymer, the ratio of the concentration by weight of the reducing agent to the concentration by weight of the cationic polymer being between 0.1 and 10, this application being followed by rinsing,</li><li>(ii) application of a care composition, preferably leave-in, comprising one or more amino silicone,</li><li>(iii) raising the temperature of the hair fibres, using a heating means, to a temperature of between 50 and 280° C., the raising of the temperature being carried out before or after the optional rinsing of the hair fibers . 2., step (ii) being carried out after step (i) and optionally before step (i), the process not using any oxidizing composition.</li></ol>

0015Preferably, the ratio of the concentration by weight of the reducer to the concentration by weight of the cationic polymer is between 0.5 and 8, and more preferably between 1 and 5.

0016Expression<i>"process for treating hair fibers without fixation"</i> describes a process for treating hair fibers that does not implement a fixing step other than air fixing. In particular, this expression means that no fixing step is implemented by means of an oxidizing composition comprising hydrogen peroxide at a hydrogen peroxide content greater than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (i.e. 2 Volumes), left in contact with the hair for more than 5 minutes.

0017According to the invention, no oxidizing composition is used.

0018An implementation of the method is also described in which a step is implemented comprising the application of an oxidizing composition with a very low concentration of hydrogen peroxide, that is to say comprising hydrogen peroxide at a content of less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (ie 2 volumes) and this composition is left to act for a period of less than 5 minutes. This step is useful for neutralizing odors.

REDUCING COMPOSITION

0019Advantageously, a thiolated reducer is used.

0020Preferably, the thiol(s) used as reducing agents in the reducing composition are chosen from aminothiols such as cysteine ​​and its derivatives, such as N-acetylcysteine, cysteamine and its derivatives, preferably its C-acylated derivatives₁-VS₄ such as N-acetyl cysteamine and N-propionyl cysteamine, and non-amino thiols such as thiolactic acid and its esters, such as glycerol monothiolactate, thioglycolic acid and its esters, such as glycerol monothioglycolate or glycol, and thioglycerol.

0021When the thiol has at least one carboxylic acid function, it is possible, where appropriate, to use said thiol in the form of one or more of its salts, such as alkali metal or ammonium salts. Ammonium thioglycolate can thus be used as thiol. If the thiol has an amino group, it is possible, where appropriate, to use said thiol in the form of one or more of its salts, such as the aminothiol halides. L-cysteine ​​hydrochloride can thus be used as thiol in the context of the present invention.

0022As aminothiols that can be used in the reducing composition used according to the invention, mention may also be made of N-mercapto-alkylamides of sugars such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, panthetein, N-(mercaptoalkyl)ω- hydroxyalkylamides such as those described in the patent application<patcit id="pcit0002" dnum="EP354835A"><text>EP-A-354 835</text></patcit> and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in the patent application<patcit id="pcit0003" dnum="EP368763A"><text>EP-A-368763</text></patcit>, aminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in the patent application<patcit id="pcit0004" dnum="EP432000A"><text>EP-A-432000</text></patcit> and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in the patent application<patcit id="pcit0005" dnum="EP514282A"><text>EP-A-514282</text></patcit>. Among the non-amino thiols used in the invention, mention may also be made of the mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2/3) and 2-hydroxymethyl-1-ethyl thioglycolate (67/33) described in the application of<patcit id="pcit0006" dnum="FR2679448A"><text>patent FR-A-2679448</text></patcit>, β-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, and thiomalic acid.

0023Preferably, according to the invention, a thiolated reducing agent is used, in particular thioglycolic acid or cysteine.

0024The total concentration of reducing agent and in particular of thiols of the reducing compositions of the invention is preferably between 0.1% and 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

CATIONIC POLYMER

0025Within the meaning of the present invention, the expression “cationic polymer” denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.

0026The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely in particular those described in the patent application<patcit id="pcit0007" dnum="EP337354A"><text>EP-A-337354</text></patcit> and in French patents<patcit id="pcit0008" dnum="FR2270846"><text>FR-2270846</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0009" dnum="FR2383660"><text>2383660</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0010" dnum="FR2598611"><text>2598611</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0011" dnum="FR2470596"><text>2470596 </text></patcit>and<patcit id="pcit0012" dnum="FR2519863"><text>2519863</text></patcit>.

0027The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which may either form part of the main polymer chain or are carried by a side substituent directly connected to it. .

0028The cationic polymers used generally have a number average molecular weight of between 500 and 5.10⁶ approximately, and preferably between 10³ and 3.10⁶ about.

0029Among the cationic polymers, mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type.

0030These are known products. They are described in particular in the<patcit id="pcit0013" dnum="FR2505348"><text>French patent n° 2505348</text></patcit> Where<patcit id="pcit0014" dnum="FR2542997"><text>2542997</text></patcit>. Among said polymers, mention may be made of:<ol id="ol0002" compact="compact" ol-style=""><li>(1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides, crosslinked or not, and comprising at least one of the units of formulas (I), (II), (III) or (IV) below:<chemistry id="chem0001" num="0001"><img file="EP2246040B1_D0001.tif" /></chemistry><chemistry id="chem0002" num="0002"><img file="EP2246040B1_D0002.tif" /></chemistry>in which<ul id="ul0002" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>R₃ denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH radical₃;</li><li>A represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;</li><li>R₄, R₅, R₆, which are identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;</li><li>R₁ and R₂, which are identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl;</li><li>X^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.</li></ul></li></ol>

0031The polymers of family (1) may also contain one or more unit(s) deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C₁-VS₄), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

0032Thus, among these polymers of family (1), mention may be made of:<ul id="ul0003" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,</li><li>the copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl-trimethylammonium chloride described for example in the patent application<patcit id="pcit0015" dnum="EP080976A"><text>EP-A-080976</text></patcit> and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,</li><li>the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyl-oxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,</li><li>vinylpyrrolidone/quaternized or non-quaternized dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name “GAFQUAT” by the company ISP, such as “GAFQUAT 734” or “GAFQUAT 755” for example, or else the products called “COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in the<patcit id="pcit0016" dnum="FR2077143"><text>French patents 2,077,143</text></patcit> and<patcit id="pcit0017" dnum="FR2393573"><text>2.393.573</text></patcit>,</li><li>dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,</li><li>the vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers marketed in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,</li><li>quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,</li><li>crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl(C₁-VS₄) trialkyl(C₁-VS₄) ammonium such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking by a compound olefinically unsaturated, in particular methylene bis acrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE^® SC 92" by CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride containing approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names of " SALCARE^® SC 95 " and " SALCARE^® SC 96" by the CIBA Company.</li></ul>

0033(2) Cationic polysaccharides chosen in particular from:<ol id="ol0003" ol-style=""><li>a) cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in the<patcit id="pcit0018" dnum="FR1492597"><text>French patent 1492597</text></patcit>, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.</li><li>b) cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in the<patcit id="pcit0019" dnum="US4131576A"><text>US patent 4,131,576</text></patcit>, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.</li><li>c) guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names of JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company MEYHALL.</li></ol>

0034(3) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and/or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in the<patcit id="pcit0020" dnum="FR2162025"><text>French patents 2,162,025</text></patcit> and<patcit id="pcit0021" dnum="FR2280361"><text>2.280.361</text></patcit>.

0035(4) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be cross-linked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or else by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, d an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more quaternized tertiary amine functions. Such polymers are described in particular in the<patcit id="pcit0022" dnum="FR2252840"><text>French patents 2,252,840</text></patcit> and<patcit id="pcit0023" dnum="FR2368508"><text>2.368.508</text></patcit>.

0036(5) Derivatives of polyaminoamides resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-dialkylamino hydroxyalkyldialcoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in the patent<patcit id="pcit0024" dnum="FR1583363"><text>French 1,583,363</text></patcit>. Among these derivatives, mention may more particularly be made of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name “Cartaretine F, F4 or F8” by the company Sandoz.

0037(6) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in patents US 3,227,615 and 2,961,347. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylene-triamine.

0038(7) Cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (V) or (VI):<chemistry id="chem0003" num="0003"><img file="EP2246040B1_D0003.tif" /></chemistry><chemistry id="chem0004" num="0004"><img file="EP2246040B1_D0004.tif" /></chemistry>formulas in which<ul id="ul0004" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;</li><li>R₉ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;</li><li>R₇ and R₈, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (C₁-VS₄), or R₇ and R₈ may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R₇ and R₈ independently of one another preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;</li><li>Y^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in the<patcit id="pcit0025" dnum="FR2080759"><text>French patent 2,080,759</text></patcit><patcit id="pcit0026" dnum="FR2190406"><text>and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406</text></patcit>.</li></ul>

0039Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Calgon (and its homologs of low weight-average molecular mass) and the copolymers of chloride diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide marketed under the name "MERQUAT 550".

0040(8) The quaternary ammonium polymer containing recurring units having the formula (VII):<chemistry id="chem0005" num="0005"><img file="EP2246040B1_D0005.tif" /></chemistry>formula (VII) in which:<ul id="ul0005" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃, which are identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles possibly containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃ represent a C alkyl radical₁-VS₆, linear or branched, substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR group₁₄-D or -CO-NH-R₁₄-D where R₁₄ is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;</li><li>A1 and B1 represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or</li><li>intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen atoms, sulfur atoms or sulphoxide, sulphone, disulphide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and</li><li>X^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;</li><li>A1, R₁₀ and R₁₂ can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a -(CH₂)_not-CO-D-OC-(CH₂)not-</li><li>in which n is between 1 and 100 and preferably between 1 and 50, and D denotes:<ol id="ol0004" compact="compact" ol-style=""><li>a) a glycol residue of formula: -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:         -(CH₂-CH₂-O)_x-CH₂-CH₂-         -[CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O]_there-CH₂-CH(CH₃)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;</li><li>b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;</li><li>c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the bivalent radical         -CH₂-CH₂-SS-CH₂-CH₂- ; </li><li>d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.</li></ol></li></ul>

0041Preferably X^- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

0042These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100000.

0043Polymers of this type are described in particular in the patents<patcit id="pcit0027" dnum="FR2320330"><text>French 2,320,330</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0028" dnum="FR2270846"><text>2.270.846</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0029" dnum="FR2316271"><text>2.316.271</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0030" dnum="FR2336434"><text>2.336.434</text></patcit> and<patcit id="pcit0031" dnum="FR2413907"><text>2.413.907</text></patcit> and patents<patcit id="pcit0032" dnum="US2273780A"><text>US 2,273,780</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0033" dnum="US2375853A"><text>2.375.853</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0034" dnum="US2388614A"><text>2.388.614</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0035" dnum="US2454547A"><text>2.454.547</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0036" dnum="US3206462A"><text>3.206.462</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0037" dnum="US2261002A"><text>2.261.002</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0038" dnum="US2271378A"><text>2.271.378</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0039" dnum="US3874870A"><text>3.874.870</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0040" dnum="US4001432A"><text>4.001.432</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0041" dnum="US3929990A"><text>3.929.990</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0042" dnum="US3966904A"><text>3.966.904</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0043" dnum="US4005193A"><text>4.005.193</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0044" dnum="US4025617A"><text>4.025.617</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0045" dnum="US4025627A"><text>4.025.627</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0046" dnum="US4025653A"><text>4.025.653</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0047" dnum="US4026945A"><text>4.026.945 </text></patcit>and<patcit id="pcit0048" dnum="US4027020A"><text>4.027.020</text></patcit>.

0044It is possible to use more particularly the polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the following formula (VIII):<chemistry id="chem0006" num="0006"><img file="EP2246040B1_D0006.tif" /></chemistry>in which R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃, which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having approximately 1 to 4 carbon atoms,<ul id="ul0006" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>n and p are integers ranging from 2 to approximately 20 and,</li><li>X^- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.</li></ul>

0045(9) Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (IX):<chemistry id="chem0007" num="0007"><img file="EP2246040B1_D0007.tif" /></chemistry>in which :<ul id="ul0007" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>p designates an integer varying from 1 to approximately 6,</li><li>D can be null or can represent a group</li><li>-(CH₂)_r-CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, and</li><li>X^- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.</li></ul>

0046The cationic polymers comprising units of formula (IX) are described in particular in the patent application<patcit id="pcit0049" dnum="EP122324A"><text>EP-A-122 324</text></patcit> and can be prepared according to the methods described in the patents<patcit id="pcit0050" dnum="US4157388A"><text>USA No. 4,157,388</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0051" dnum="US4390689A"><text>4 390 689</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0052" dnum="US4702906A"><text>4 702 906</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0053" dnum="US4719282A"><text>4 719 282</text></patcit>.

0047Among these polymers, those with a molecular mass measured by Carbon-13 NMR of less than 100,000, and in the formula of which: p is equal to 3, and,<ol id="ol0005" compact="compact" ol-style=""><li>a) D represents a group -(CH₂)₄-CO- , X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass measured by Carbon 13 NMR (NMR¹³C) being about 5600; a polymer of this type is offered by the company MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-AD1,</li><li>b) D represents a group -(CH₂)₇-CO-, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass measured by Carbon 13 NMR (NMR¹³C) being about 8100; a polymer of this type is offered by the company MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-AZ1,</li><li>c) D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass measured by NMR of Carbon 13, (NMR¹³C) being about 25500; a polymer of this type is sold by the company MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-A15,</li><li>d) a "Block Copolymer" formed of units corresponding to the polymers described in paragraphs a) and c), offered by the company MIRANOL under the names MIRAPOL-9, (NMR molecular mass¹³C, ca. 7800) MIRAPOL-175, (NMR molecular mass¹³C, about 8000) MIRAPOL-95, (NMR molecular mass¹³C, about 12500).</li></ol>

0048Even more particularly, according to the invention, the polymer with units of formula (XI) in which p is equal to 3, D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass measured by NMR of Carbon 13, ( NMR¹³C) being about 25500.

0049(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products marketed under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name of “POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE” in the CTFA dictionary.

0050Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and derivatives of chitin.

0051Among all the cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of families (7) and (8).

0052The cationic polymer(s) according to the invention is found in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition.

0053Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from hexadimethrine chloride and homo or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.

0054Advantageously, the pH of the reducing composition is between 4 and 12, preferably between 7 and 11.

0055Adjustment of the pH of the composition can be obtained using an alkaline agent, such as, for example, ammonia, organic amines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, 2-methyl-1-aminopropanol, an alkaline or ammonium carbonate or bicarbonate, an organic carbonate such as guanidine carbonate, an alkaline hydroxide, such as soda, or alternatively using an acidifying agent such as, for example, hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid or boric acid.

0056The reducing composition generally comprises one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents, preferably chosen from water, C alcohols₁-VS₆, preferably alkanols such as ethanol, propanol and isopropanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, pentanediol and glycerin and hexylene glycol, benzyl alcohol, polyol ethers, esters in VS₂-VS₆, N-methylpyrrolidone (NMP), and C ketones₃-VS₆.

0057With the aim of improving the properties of the hair compositions according to the invention, the reducing composition used according to the invention can also comprise one or more cosmetic additives.

0058This or these cosmetic additives are generally chosen from silicones, volatile or not, linear or cyclic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric polymers, in soluble or insoluble form such as latexes, peptides and their derivatives, protein hydrolysates, waxes, swelling and penetrating agents or allowing to reinforce the efficiency of the reducer such as the SiO mixture₂/polydimethylsiloxane, dimethylisosorbitol, urea and its derivatives, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, anti-hair loss agents, anti-dandruff agents, natural or synthetic thickeners, associative or not, suspending agents, sequestering agents, opacifying agents, colorants, sunscreens, vitamins or provitamins, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, mineral oils, vegetable or synthetic, mineral particles, as well as perfumes and preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

0059The cosmetic active agent(s) can be chosen from silicones.

0060As silicones which can be used as cosmetic active agents in the process according to the invention, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternized polyorganosiloxanes such as those described in the application for<patcit id="pcit0054" dnum="FR2535730"><text>French patent FR 2535730</text></patcit>, polyorganosiloxanes containing aminoalkyl groups modified with alkoxycarbonylalkyl groups such as those described in the<patcit id="pcit0055" dnum="US4749732A"><text>US Patent No. 4,749,732</text></patcit>, polyorganosiloxanes such as the polydimethylsiloxane-polyoxyalkyl copolymer of the dimethicone copolyol type, a polydimethylsiloxane with stearoxy end groups (stearoxydimethicone), a polydimethylsiloxane-dialkylammonium acetate copolymer or a polydimethyl-siloxane polyalkylbetaine copolymer described in the<patcit id="pcit0056" dnum="GB2197352A"><text>British patent GB 2197352</text></patcit>, organopolysiloxanes modified with mercapto or mercaptoalkyl groups such as those described in the<patcit id="pcit0057" dnum="FR1530369"><text>French patent FR 1530369</text></patcit> and in the European patent application<patcit id="pcit0058" dnum="EP295780A"><text>EP 295780</text></patcit>.

0061Furthermore, the cosmetic active agent(s) can also be chosen from fatty acids and fatty alcohols.

0062As fatty acids that can be used as active agents in the process according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of C carboxylic acids₈-VS₃₀, such as palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, and mixtures thereof.

0063As fatty alcohols which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of C alcohols₈-VS₃₀ such as, for example, palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, myristyl, stearyl and lauryl alcohols or mixtures thereof.

0064The reducing composition used in the process according to the invention can be in the form of a lotion, thickened or not, of a cream, of a gel, or of a foam.

0065After application of the reducing composition, said composition can be left on, generally for 5 to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 30 minutes, optionally under a helmet.

CARE COMPOSITION (ii)

0066In all that follows or precedes, the term silicone or polysiloxane is intended to denote, in accordance with general acceptance, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond ≡Si-O-Si≡), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked by the intermediary of a carbon atom on said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are the alkyl radicals, in particular C₁-VS₁₀ and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, aryl radicals and in particular phenyl, and alkenyl radicals and in particular vinyl; other types of radicals capable of being linked either directly or via a hydrocarbon radical to the siloxane chain are in particular hydrogen, halogens and in particular chlorine, bromine or fluorine, thiols, alkoxy radicals, polyoxyalkylene (or polyether) and in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene radicals, hydroxyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals, amide groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl radicals, amphoteric or betainic groups, anionic groups such as carboxylates, thioglycolates, sulfosuccinates, thiosulfates, phosphates and sulfates, this list being of course in no way limiting (so-called “organomodified” silicones).

0067According to the invention, by amino silicone used in step (ii), is meant any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group. We can thus cite:<ul id="ul0008" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>(a) polysiloxanes corresponding to the formula:<chemistry id="chem0008" num="0008"><img file="EP2246040B1_D0008.tif" /></chemistry><ul id="ul0009" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>wherein x' and y' are integers depending on the molecular weight, generally such that said weight average molecular weight is between 5000 and 500000 approximately;</li><li>R₁, R₂, R₃ identical or different denote a hydroxyl radical, a C alkyl radical₁ to C₄, a C alkoxy radical₁ to C₄, phenyl;</li><li>X denotes a C alkylene radical₁-VS₄, branched or not;</li><li>R₄ denotes a C alkyl radical₁-VS₄ or phenyl;</li><li>p, p' designate independently of each other an integer ranging from 1 to 10.</li><li>Preferably, alkyl denotes methyl and alkoxy denotes methoxy.</li><li>Preferably, p=3, p′=2 and R4 denotes methyl and X denotes methylene.</li><li>Among these polymers, mention may be made of the compounds designated by the name “amodimethicone” and “trimethylsilylaminodimethicone” in the CTFA dictionary.</li></ul></li><li>(b) amino silicones corresponding to the formula:<chemistry id="chem0009" num="0009"><img file="EP2246040B1_D0009.tif" /></chemistry>in which<ul id="ul0010" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>R₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C alkyl radical₁-VS₁₈, or C-alkenyl₂-VS₁₈, for example methyl;</li><li>R₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C alkylene radical₁-VS₁₈ or a divalent C alkyleneoxy radical₁-VS₁₈, for example in C₁-VS₈ bonded to Si by an SiC bond;</li><li>Q^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);</li><li>r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;</li><li>s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.</li><li>Such amino silicones are described more particularly in the<patcit id="pcit0059" dnum="US4185087A"><text>US patent 4185087</text></patcit>.</li><li>A silicone falling into this class is the silicone marketed by Union Carbide under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56.</li></ul></li><li>c) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula:<chemistry id="chem0010" num="0010"><img file="EP2246040B1_D0010.tif" /></chemistry>in which<ul id="ul0011" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>R₇, identical or different , represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C alkyl radical₁-VS₁₈, a C alkenyl radical₂-VS₁₈ or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;</li><li>R₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C alkylene radical₁-VS₁₈ or a divalent C alkyleneoxy radical₁-VS₁₈, for example in C₁-VS₈ bonded to Si by an SiC bond;</li><li>R₈, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C alkyl radical₁-VS₁₈, a C alkenyl radical₂-VS₁₈ , a radical -R₆-NHCOR₇ ;</li><li>X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);</li><li>r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;</li></ul></li></ul>

0068These silicones are for example described in the application<patcit id="pcit0060" dnum="EP0530974A"><text>EP-A-0530974</text></patcit>.

0069According to the invention, it is preferred to use an amino silicone:<ul id="ul0012" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>whose amine number is greater than 0.15 meq per gram,</li><li>having hydroxy and/or alkoxy ends.</li></ul>

0070By way of example, mention may be made, as a microemulsion, containing such a silicone, of the product marketed by the company WACKER under the name of WACKER-BELSIL ADM LOG 1.

0071Amino silicones can be in the form of microemulsions.

0072Advantageously, the concentration of amino silicone in the pre-treatment or post-treatment composition is between 0.05 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of this composition, and more advantageously between 0.1 and 7% .

0073Care compositions containing amino silicones may contain water-soluble or fat-soluble active agents with cosmetic activity. Mention may be made, by way of examples of active agents, of vitamins and their derivatives such as vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, vitamin C and its esters, B vitamins, vitamin A alcohol or retinol, vitamin A acid or retinoic acid and its derivatives, provitamins such as panthenol, vitamin A palmitate, niacinamide, ergocalciferol, antioxidants, essential oils, humectants, silicone or non-silicone sunscreens, agents preservatives, sequestrants, pearlescent agents, pigments, moisturizing agents, antidandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, plasticizers, hydroxy acids, electrolytes and perfumes. The care compositions containing the amino silicones can contain one or more of the additives listed for the reducing compositions.

0074Preferably, the pH of the amino silicone composition is preferably between 2 and 10, and more preferably between 3 and 9.

0075Such care compositions are described in<patcit id="pcit0061" dnum="EP1247518A"><text>EP1 247 518</text></patcit>.

HEATING STAGE

0076As explained above, the method according to the invention comprises a step of raising the temperature of the hair fibers, using a heating means.

0077As a means of heating, one can use a helmet, a hair dryer, an iron with or without the addition of steam, in particular as described in<patcit id="pcit0062" dnum="FR2921805"><text>EN 2921805</text></patcit>, an infrared device.

0078The heating step can be preceded by a pre-drying step, using one or more heating means.

0079Within the meaning of the present invention, iron means a device for heating hair fibers by contact.

0080The end of the iron coming into contact with the hair can have different shapes. It may in particular have a flat surface; we speak in this case of flat iron. It may also have a rounded surface; in this case we speak of round iron.

0081The application of the iron can be done by successive touches separated by a few seconds, or by displacement or progressive sliding along the locks.

0082By way of example of iron that can be used in the process according to the invention, mention may be made of all types of flat or round iron and, in particular, in a non-limiting manner, those described in the<patcit id="pcit0063" dnum="US4103145A"><text>US patents 4,103,145</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0064" dnum="US4308878A"><text>US 4308878</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0065" dnum="US5983903A"><text>US 5983903</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0066" dnum="US5957140A"><text>US 5957140</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0067" dnum="US5494058A"><text>US 5494058</text></patcit> and<patcit id="pcit0068" dnum="US5046516A"><text>US 5046516</text></patcit>.

0083Preferably, the temperature of the hair fibers is raised to a temperature of between 60°C and 250°C, better still between 120°C and 220°C.

0084In the case of using a helmet or a hair dryer, the drying time can vary from 1 to 90 minutes.

0085The order of steps (i), (ii) and (iii) is irrelevant. Preferably, the process of the invention can be illustrated by the following variants:<ul id="ul0013" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>Variant 1: step i, then step ii then step iii, (according to the invention),</li><li>Variant 2: step ii, then step i then step iii, (not according to the invention),</li><li>Variant 3: step ii, then step i then step ii then step iii. (according to the invention).</li></ul>

0086Stage ii may optionally be followed by rinsing or shampooing, preferably stage ii is not rinsed out. If step ii is followed by rinsing, the exposure time before rinsing is between 30 seconds and 10 minutes.

POSSIBLE ADDITIONAL STEPS

Application of a care composition (iv)

0087The process in accordance with the invention may also comprise the application of a care composition (iv) different from the care composition (ii). This composition comprises at least one silicone or non-silicone fatty substance.

0088The fatty substances that can be used in the care compositions (iv) according to the present invention are all oils, waxes, silicone resins or not, organic or mineral, natural or synthetic.

0089An oil, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, liquid at ambient temperature (approximately 25° C.), with a reversible solid/liquid state change. Animal and vegetable oils include as essential constituents triesters of propane-1,2,3-triol.

0090A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (about 25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point above about 40°C and which can go up to 200°C, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state.

NON-SILICONES GREASES

0091As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example:<ul id="ul0014" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;</li><li>hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arana, sunflower, castor, avocado, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as, for example, those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;</li><li>synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R⁶COOR⁷ and R⁶GOLD⁷ in which R⁶ represents the residue of a fatty acid having from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R⁷ represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin's oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononaoate; and pendaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;</li></ul><ul id="ul0015" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil;</li><li>fluid fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol or linolenic alcohol;</li><li>alkoxylated and especially ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as oleth-12;</li><li>partially hydrocarbon fluorinated oils such as those described in the document<patcit id="pcit0069" dnum="JP2295912A"><text>JP-A-2 295912</text></patcit>. As fluorinated oils, mention may also be made of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, for example sold under the names of “FLUTEC PC1^® » and « FLUTEC PC3^® » by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoralcanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, for example sold under the names “PF 5050^® and “PF 5060^® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl, for example, sold under the name "FORALKYL^® » by the Atochem Company; nanofluoromethoxybutane, for example sold under the name “MSX 4518^® » by 3M and nanofluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine, for example sold under the name “PF 5052^® by 3M Company.</li></ul>

0092The term “hydrocarbon oil” in the list of oils cited above means any oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.

0093Animal and vegetable waxes include as essential constituents esters of carboxylic acids and long chain alcohols. In general, the size of the crystals of the wax is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter the light, giving the composition which comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with the oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, we obtain a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

0094As waxes which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; vegetable waxes such as sunflower, rice, apple waxes, Carnauba, Candelilla, Ouricury, Japan wax, cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugar cane waxes; mineral waxes, for example paraffin, petrolatum, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, and mixtures thereof.

SILICONE GREASY SUBSTANCES

0095It is also possible to use, in the care composition (iv) according to the invention, a silicone as fatty substance.

0096The silicones which can be used in the compositions according to the present invention can be linear, cyclic, branched or unbranched, volatile or non-volatile. They may be in the form of oils, resins or gums, they may in particular be polyorganosiloxanes which are insoluble in the cosmetically acceptable medium.

0097Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work of<nplcit id="ncit0001" npl-type="b"><text>Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press</text></nplcit>. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

0098When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60° C. and 260° C., and more particularly still from:<ol id="ol0006" compact="compact" ol-style=""><li>(i) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and, preferably, 4 to 5. This is, for example, octamethylcyclotetra-siloxane marketed in particular under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.</li></ol>

0099Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE, of chemical structure:<chemistry id="chem0011" num="0011"><img file="EP2246040B1_D0011.tif" /></chemistry>

0100Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa -2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10-6m2/s at 25°C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name “SH 200” by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD &amp; BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

0101Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may in particular be made of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof.

0102The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined previously and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

0103Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:<ul id="ul0016" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone-copolyol marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET oils^® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl(C12)-methicone-copolyol marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2 5200;</li><li>thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE;</li><li>alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX^® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT;</li><li>hydroxyl groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes with a hydroxyalkyl function described in the application for<patcit id="pcit0070" dnum="FR8516334A"><text>French patent FR-A-85 16334</text></patcit> .</li><li>acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in the<patcit id="pcit0071" dnum="US4957732A"><text>US-A-4957732</text></patcit>.</li><li>anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type such as, for example, in the products described in the patent<patcit id="pcit0072" dnum="EP186507A"><text>EP 186 507</text></patcit> from the company CHISSO CORPORATION, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL^® S201" and "ABIL^® S255".</li><li>The silicone oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are polymethylsiloxanes, volatile or not, with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendent or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, polymethyl-phenylsiloxanes; and their mixtures.</li></ul>

0104The silicone gums which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are polydiorganosiloxanes of high molecular weight, between 200,000 and 2,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils, polymethylphenylsiloxane oils , polydiphenyldimethylsiloxane oils, isoparaffins, methylene chloride, pentane, hydrocarbons or mixtures thereof.

0105Preferably, a silicone gum of molecular weight less than 1,500,000 is used. poly(diphenylsiloxane dimethylsiloxanemethylvinylsiloxanes).

0106These silicone gums can be terminated at the end of the chain by trimethylsilyl or dimethylhydroxysilyl groups.

0107The silicone resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the R units₂SiO_2/2, RSiO_3/2, SiO_4/2, wherein R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those which are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower alkyl radical (C₁-VS₆) or a phenyl radical.

0108The concentration of silicone or non-silicone fatty substances used in the compositions (iv) according to the present invention is between 0.01 and 20% and preferably between 0.05 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .

0109Composition (iv) may contain all of the additional ingredients of composition ii.

0110Preferably, the care composition iv is applied before step i and is optionally rinsed off. If it is rinsed, its pause time is between 30 seconds and 10 minutes.

0111The present invention is illustrated by the following examples. The contents are indicated in active ingredient.

Examples

0112The process for treating hair fibers according to the invention is implemented using a reducing composition and a care composition.

Reducing composition B

0113<tables id="tabl0001" num="0001"><table frame="none"><tgroup cols="2" colsep="0" rowsep="0"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="49mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="20mm" /><tbody><row><entry>Cysteine</entry><entry>4 g</entry></row><row><entry>Hydroxypropylguar</entry><entry>0.5g</entry></row><row><entry>Mexomere PO</entry><entry>2.5g</entry></row><row><entry>Monoethanolamine</entry><entry>qsp pH 9.2</entry></row><row><entry>Water</entry><entry>qsp 100g</entry></row></tbody></tgroup><tgroup cols="2" colsep="0" rowsep="0"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="49mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="20mm" /><thead valign="top"><row><entry><u>Care composition D</u></entry><entry /></row></thead><tbody><row><entry>Cetearyl alcohol</entry><entry>1.5g</entry></row><row><entry>Steareth-20</entry><entry>0.5</entry></row><row><entry>WACKER-BELSIL ADM LOG 1</entry><entry>13.5</entry></row><row><entry>Water</entry><entry>qsp 100g</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>

0114The process for treating hair fibers according to the invention is implemented using, as a means of raising the temperature, either a hair dryer or an iron.

1)

Example of process with hair dryer

0115This process has the advantage of being fast and not very technical, which allows the model to apply it.

0116The hair (medium wavy natural hair) is washed using a standard shampoo and then towel-dried.

0117Care D is applied immediately to the tips, without rinsing, at room temperature (22°C).

0118The reducing composition B is applied one after the other to all of the hair, by hand or with a brush. A pause time of 20 min, at room temperature, is respected, then the hair is rinsed with plenty of water.

0119Treatment D is applied to all of the hair and the hair is pre-dried with a hair dryer. We then proceed to a careful brushing of all the hair, always with a hair dryer and a brush, at a temperature of about 60°C.

0120In the end, the hair is smooth, frizz-free and the fibers are easy to comb and detangle. The hair is not degraded.

0121During the following days, and this until about 8 shampoos, the hair remains more manageable, with less frizz, more relaxed curls. Blow-drying is quick and easy.

2)

Example of process with iron

0122This process is more technical than the previous one, but it has the advantage of a smoother and slightly more persistent result, while being reversible.

0123The hair (medium wavy natural hair) is washed using a standard shampoo and then towel-dried.

0124Care D is applied immediately to the tips, without rinsing, at room temperature (22°C).

0125The reducing composition B is applied one after the other to all of the hair, by hand or with a brush. A pause time of 20 min, at room temperature, is respected, then the hair is rinsed with plenty of water.

0126Treatment D is applied to all of the hair and the hair is pre-dried with a hair dryer. We then proceed to a neat straightening of the whole of the hair with a flat iron whose temperature is 180°C.

0127The hair is smooth, frizz-free and the fibers are easy to comb and detangle.

0128During the days that follow, and this until about 10 shampoos, the hair remains easier to comb, with less frizz, more relaxed curls. Daily brushing is quick and easy.

0129The hair is not degraded and the residual odor is low.