Method for the shaping of hair including a step of applying a reducing composition and a heating step

0001The present invention relates to a method for treating hair fibers, as well as to the use of said method.

0002It is usual, in order to obtain permanent deformation of the hair, to firstly open the disulphide bonds of the keratin (cystine) using a composition containing a reducing agent, then after having preferably rinsed the hair, to reconstitute in a second step said disulfide bonds by applying to straightened hair or hair previously tensioned by suitable means such as curlers, an oxidizing composition also called fixative so as to give the hair the desired shape. This technique makes it possible indifferently to carry out either the waving of the hair, or their straightening, their crimping or their straightening.

0003The reducing compositions which can be used for carrying out the first step of these methods generally contain thiol compounds, such as thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, thiolactic acid and glycerol monothioglycolate.

0004The concentration of reducing agents can be very high, often up to 15% by weight of the reducing composition.

0005Such a technique is not entirely satisfactory. Indeed, this technique is very effective in modifying the shape of the hair, but also very degrading for the hair fibers.

0006It has also been proposed to raise the temperature of the hair, between the reduction step and the fixing step, by means of a heating iron.

0007So the patent application <patcit id="pcit0001" dnum="EP1584329A"><text>EP1584329</text></patcit> discloses a method of treating hair fibers without fixation comprising the following steps:<ul id="ul0001" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>application to the hair fibers of a reducing composition without ceramide, containing at least one reducing agent, the reducing agent or agents being chosen from thiols and representing less than 3% by weight of the total weight of the reducing composition if the composition does not contain no aminothiols, and less than 5% if the composition contains at least one aminothiol,</li><li>raising the temperature of the hair fibers, by means of a heating iron, to a temperature at least equal to 60 ° C., the raising of the temperature being carried out before or after any rinsing of the hair fibers.</li></ul>

0008However, such a technique leads to still insufficient formatting, to residual odor problems and requires careful application of the iron.

0009The problem of the present invention is therefore to provide a method for treating hair fibers which overcomes the drawbacks of the prior art.

0010In particular, the aim of the present invention is to provide a method for treating hair fibers which makes it possible to modify the shape of the hair, to control the volume of the hair, to reduce frizz and to improve the cosmetic performance of the hair, in particular the softness, shine and detangling while better respecting the color of dyed hair.

0011It is also observed that the method according to the invention facilitates subsequent brushing or smoothing of the hair and limits the volume recoveries to 1

0012Another object of the invention is to provide a method of shaping the hair which brings even more care to the hair, without leaving a residual odor on the latter after its implementation.

0013The Applicant has found that it was possible to remedy the drawbacks of the prior art and to fulfill the abovementioned objectives, by implementing a process for treating hair fibers without fixing, comprising a step of application to the hair fibers. a reducing composition, containing at least one reducing agent associated with a cationic polymer, then a step of raising the temperature of the hair fibers, by means of a heating iron, at a temperature at least equal to 50 ° C., the rise in temperature being carried out before or after optional rinsing of the hair fibers, this process comprising the application of a care composition, preferably not rinsed, comprising a or more amino silicones.

0014Thus, the subject of the invention is a method for shaping the hair fibers comprising the following steps:<ol id="ol0001" compact="compact"><li>(i) application to the hair fibers of a reducing composition comprising one or more cationic polymers, the ratio of the concentration by weight of the reducing agent to the concentration by weight of the cationic polymer being between 0.1 and 10, this application being followed by rinsing,</li><li>(ii) application of a care composition, preferably not rinsed off, comprising one or more amino silicone,</li><li>(iii) raising the temperature of the capillary fibers, using a heating means, to a temperature between 50 and 280 ° C., the raising of the temperature being carried out before or after any rinsing of the capillary fibers .</li></ol>

0015Preferably, the ratio of the concentration by weight of the reducing agent to the concentration by weight of the cationic polymer is between 0.5 and 8, and more preferably between 1 and 5.

0016According to the invention, the expression <i>"Hair fiber treatment process without fixation"</i> describes a method for treating hair fibers not using a fixing step other than fixing in air. In particular, this expression means that no fixing step is carried out using an oxidizing composition comprising hydrogen peroxide at a hydrogen peroxide content greater than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (ie 2 Volumes), left in contact with the hair for more than 5 minutes.

0017According to a first embodiment of the method according to the invention, no oxidizing composition is used.

0018According to a second embodiment of the method according to the invention, a step is carried out comprising the application of an oxidizing composition very weakly concentrated in hydrogen peroxide, that is to say comprising hydrogen peroxide at a content of less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (ie 2 volumes) and this composition is left to act for a duration of less than 5 minutes. This step is useful for neutralizing odors.

REDUCING COMPOSITION

0019Advantageously, a thiolated reducer is used.

0020Preferably, the thiol (s) used as reducing agents in the reducing composition are chosen from aminothiols such as cysteine ​​and its derivatives, such as N-acetylcysteine, cysteamine and its derivatives, preferably its C acylated derivatives₁-VS₄ such as N-acetyl cysteamine and N-propionyl cysteamine, and non-amino thiols such as thiolactic acid and its esters, such as glycerol monothiolactate, thioglycolic acid and its esters, such as glycerol monothioglycolate or glycol, and thioglycerol.

0021When the thiol has at least one carboxylic acid function, the thiol can optionally be used in the form of one or more of its salts, such as the alkali metal or ammonium salts. Ammonium thioglycolate can thus be used as thiol. If the thiol has an amino group, it can optionally be used in the form of one or more of its salts such as the aminothiol halides. It is thus possible to use as thiol in the context of the present invention L-cysteine ​​hydrochloride.

0022As aminothiols which can be used in the reducing composition used according to the invention, mention may also be made of N-mercapto-alkylamides of sugars such as N- (mercapto-2-ethyl) gluconamide, panthetaine, N- (mercaptoalkyl) ω- hydroxyalkylamides such as those described in the patent application <patcit id="pcit0002" dnum="EP354835A"><text>EP-A-354 835</text></patcit> and N-mono- or N, N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in the patent application <patcit id="pcit0003" dnum="EP368763A"><text>EP-A-368763</text></patcit>, aminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in the patent application <patcit id="pcit0004" dnum="EP432000A"><text>EP-A-432000</text></patcit> and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in the patent application <patcit id="pcit0005" dnum="EP514282A"><text>EP-A-514282</text></patcit>. Among the non-amino thiols used in the invention, mention may also be made of the mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2/3) and 2-hydroxyethyl methyl-1 ethyl methyl (67/33) described in the application patent<patcit id="pcit0006" dnum="FR2679448A"><text>FR-A-2679448</text></patcit>, β-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, and thiomalic acid.

0023Preferably, according to the invention, a thiolated reducing agent is used, in particular thioglycolic acid or cysteine.

0024The total concentration of reducing agent and in particular of thiols of the reducing compositions of the invention is preferably between 0.1% and 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

CATIONIC POLYMER

0025Within the meaning of the present invention, the expression “cationic polymer” designates any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.

0026The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely in particular those described in the patent application. <patcit id="pcit0007" dnum="EP337354A"><text>EP-A-337354</text></patcit> and in French patents <patcit id="pcit0008" dnum="FR2270846"><text>FR-2270846</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0009" dnum="FR2383660"><text>2383660</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0010" dnum="FR2598611"><text>2598611</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0011" dnum="FR2470596"><text>2470596 </text></patcit>and <patcit id="pcit0012" dnum="FR2519863"><text>2519863</text></patcit>.

0027The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which, which either form part of the main polymer chain, or are carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto .

0028The cationic polymers used generally have a number average molecular mass of between 500 and 5.10⁶ approximately, and preferably between 10³ and 3.10⁶ about.

0029Among the cationic polymers, mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type.

0030These are known products. They are described in particular in French patents no.<patcit id="pcit0013" dnum="FR2505348"><text>2505348</text></patcit> or <patcit id="pcit0014" dnum="FR2542997"><text>2542997</text></patcit>. Among said polymers, there may be mentioned:<ol id="ol0002" compact="compact"><li>(1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides, crosslinked or not, and comprising at least one of the units of formulas (I), (II), (III) or (IV) below:<chemistry id="chem0001" num="0001"><img file="EP2246040A2_D0001.tif" /></chemistry><chemistry id="chem0002" num="0002"><img file="EP2246040A2_D0002.tif" /></chemistry>in which R₃ denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH radical₃; A represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R₄, R₅, R₆, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R₁ and R₂, identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl; X^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.</li></ol>

0031The polymers of family (1) can also contain one or more unit (s) derived from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones, acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen by lower alkyls (C₁-VS₄), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters. Thus, among these polymers of family (1), there may be mentioned:<ul id="ul0002" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,</li><li>copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described for example in the patent application <patcit id="pcit0015" dnum="EP080976A"><text>EP-A-080976</text></patcit> and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,</li><li>the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyl-oxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name RETEN by the company</li></ul>

HERCULES,

0032<ul id="ul0003" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or methacrylate of dialkylaminoalkyl quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or else the products called "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937 ". These polymers are described in detail in French patents<patcit id="pcit0016" dnum="FR2077143"><text>2.077.143</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0017" dnum="FR2393573"><text>2.393.573</text></patcit>,</li><li>dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,</li><li>vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,</li><li>vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide quaternized copolymers such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,</li><li>crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl salts (C₁-VS₄) trialkyl (C₁-VS₄) ammonium such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound with olefinic unsaturation, in particular methylene bis acrylamide. One can more particularly use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name of "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride containing approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names of "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.</li></ul><ul id="ul0004" list-style="none"><li>(2) The cationic polysaccharides in particular chosen from:<ol id="ol0003"><li>a) derivatives of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in the French patent <patcit id="pcit0018" dnum="FR1492597"><text>1492597</text></patcit>, and in particular the polymers marketed under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.</li><li>b) cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in the patent <patcit id="pcit0019" dnum="US4131576A"><text>US 4,131,576</text></patcit>, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.</li><li>c) guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used, for example. Such products are sold in particular under the trade names of JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company MEYHALL.</li></ol></li><li>(3) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents<patcit id="pcit0020" dnum="FR2162025"><text>2.162.025</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0021" dnum="FR2280361"><text>2.280.361</text></patcit>.</li><li>(4) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-halide of alkyl or also with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, d '' an epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents<patcit id="pcit0022" dnum="FR2252840"><text>2.252.840</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0023" dnum="FR2368508"><text>2.368.508</text></patcit>.</li><li>(5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic acid-dialkylamino hydroxyalkylalkylcylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in the French patent<patcit id="pcit0024" dnum="FR1583363"><text>1.583.363</text></patcit>. Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.</li><li>(6) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in the patents American 3,227,615 and 2,961,347. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name of "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylene-triamine.</li><li>(7) Cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (V) or (VI):<chemistry id="chem0003" num="0003"><img file="EP2246040A2_D0003.tif" /></chemistry><chemistry id="chem0004" num="0004"><img file="EP2246040A2_D0004.tif" /></chemistry>formulas in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R₉ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R₇ and R₈, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (C₁-VS₄), or R₇ and R₈ may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R₇ and R₈ independently of one another preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; Y^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in the French patent<patcit id="pcit0025" dnum="FR2080759"><text>2.080.759</text></patcit> and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406.</li></ul>

0033Among the polymers defined above, there may be mentioned more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Calgon (and its low molecular weight average counterparts) and chloride copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium and of acrylamide marketed under the name "MERQUAT 550".<ul id="ul0005" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>(8) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing recurring units corresponding to formula (VII):<chemistry id="chem0005" num="0005"><img file="EP2246040A2_D0005.tif" /></chemistry>formula (VII) in which: R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or else R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles possibly containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃ represent a C 1 alkyl radical₁-VS₆, linear or branched, substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR group₁₄-D or -CO-NH-R₁₄-D where R₁₄ is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group; A1 and B1 represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; A1, R₁₀ and R₁₂ can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a group         - (CH₂)_not-CO-D-OC- (CH₂)not- in which n is between 1 and 100 and preferably between 1 and 50, and D denotes:<ol id="ol0004" compact="compact"><li>a) a glycol residue of formula: -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:         - (CH₂-CH₂-O)_x-CH₂-CH₂-         - [CH₂-CH (CH₃) -O]_y-CH₂-CH (CH₃) - where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;</li><li>b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;</li><li>c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the bivalent radical         -CH₂-CH₂-SS-CH₂-CH₂- ; </li><li>d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.</li></ol></li></ul>Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

0034These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000. Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents <patcit id="pcit0026" dnum="FR2320330"><text>2.320.330</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0027" dnum="FR2270846"><text>2.270.846</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0028" dnum="FR2316271"><text>2.316.271</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0029" dnum="FR2336434"><text>2.336.434</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0030" dnum="FR2413907"><text>2.413.907</text></patcit> and patents <patcit id="pcit0031" dnum="US2273780A"><text>US 2,273,780</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0032" dnum="US2375853A"><text>2.375.853</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0033" dnum="US2388614A"><text>2.388.614</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0034" dnum="US2454547A"><text>2.454.547</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0035" dnum="US3206462A"><text>3.206.462</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0036" dnum="US2261002A"><text>2.261.002</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0037" dnum="US2271378A"><text>2.271.378</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0038" dnum="US3874870A"><text>3.874.870</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0039" dnum="US4001432A"><text>4.001.432</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0040" dnum="US3929990A"><text>3.929.990</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0041" dnum="US3966904A"><text>3.966.904</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0042" dnum="US4005193A"><text>4.005.193</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0043" dnum="US4025617A"><text>4.025.617</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0044" dnum="US4025627A"><text>4.025.627</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0045" dnum="US4025653A"><text>4.025.653</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0046" dnum="US4026945A"><text>4.026.945</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0047" dnum="US4027020A"><text>4.027.020</text></patcit>. It is possible to use more particularly the polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the following formula (VIII):<chemistry id="chem0006" num="0006"><img file="EP2246040A2_D0006.tif" /></chemistry>in which R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are whole numbers varying from approximately 2 to 20 and, X^- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.<ul id="ul0006" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>(9) Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (IX):<chemistry id="chem0007" num="0007"><img file="EP2246040A2_D0007.tif" /></chemistry>in which : p denotes an integer varying from 1 to 6 approximately, D can be zero or can represent a group<ul id="ul0007" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>(CH₂)_r-CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, and</li></ul>X^- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.</li></ul>Cationic polymers comprising units of formula (IX) are described in particular in the patent application <patcit id="pcit0048" dnum="EP122324A"><text>EP-A-122 324</text></patcit> and can be prepared according to the methods described in the patents <patcit id="pcit0049" dnum="US4157388A"><text>USA No. 4,157,388</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0050" dnum="US4390689A"><text>4 390 689</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0051" dnum="US4702906A"><text>4 702 906</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0052" dnum="US4719282A"><text>4 719 282</text></patcit>. Among these polymers, those of molecular mass measured by NMR of Carbon 13 less than 100,000 are preferred, and in the formula of which: p is 3, and,<ol id="ol0005" compact="compact"><li>a) D represents a group - (CH₂)₄-CO-, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass measured by Carbon 13 NMR (NMR¹³C) being about 5600; a polymer of this type is offered by the company MIRANOL under the name of MIRAPOL-AD1,</li><li>b) D represents a group - (CH₂)₇-CO-, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass measured by Carbon 13 NMR (NMR¹³C) being about 8100; a polymer of this type is offered by the company MIRANOL under the name of MIRAPOL-AZ1,</li><li>c) D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass measured by NMR of Carbon 13, (NMR¹³C) being about 25,500; a polymer of this type is sold by the company Miranol under the name Mirapol-A15,</li><li>d) a "Block Copolymer" formed of units corresponding to the polymers described in paragraphs a) and c), proposed by the company MIRANOL under the names MIRAPOL-9, (molecular mass NMR¹³C, about 7800) MIRAPOL-175, (NMR molecular weight¹³C, about 8000) MIRAPOL-95, (NMR molecular weight¹³C, around 12500).</li></ol>

0035More particularly still, the polymer with units of formula (XI) is preferred according to the invention in which p is equal to 3, D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass measured by NMR of Carbon 13, (NMR¹³C) being approximately 25500.<ul id="ul0008" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF</li><li>(11) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name of "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.</li></ul>

0036Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyuretylenes and chitin derivatives.

0037Among all the cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of families (7) and (8).

0038The cationic polymer (s) according to the invention is (are) in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

0039Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from hexadimethrin chloride and homo or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.

0040Advantageously, the pH of the reducing composition is between 4 and 12, preferably between 7 and 11.

0041Adjustment of the pH of the composition can be obtained using an alkaline agent, such as, for example, ammonia, organic amines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, 2-methyl-1-aminopropanol, an alkali or ammonium carbonate or bicarbonate, an organic carbonate such as guanidine carbonate, an alkali hydroxide, such as sodium hydroxide, or using an acidifying agent such as for example hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid or boric acid.

0042The reducing composition generally comprises one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents, preferably chosen from water, C alcohols₁-VS₆, preferably alkanols such as ethanol, propanol and isopropanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, pentanediol and glycerin and hexylene glycol, benzyl alcohol, polyol ethers, esters thereof VS₂-VS₆, N-methylpyrrolidone (NMP), and C ketones₃-VS₆.

0043In order to improve the properties of the hair compositions according to the invention, the reducing composition used according to the invention can also comprise one or more cosmetic additives.

0044This or these cosmetic additives are generally chosen from volatile or non-volatile, linear or cyclic silicones, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polymers, in soluble or insoluble form such as latexes, peptides and their derivatives, protein hydrolysates, waxes, bulking and penetrating agents or for enhancing the effectiveness of the reducing agent such as the SiO mixture₂/ polydimethylsiloxane, dimethylisosorbitol, urea and its derivatives, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, fall arrest agents, dandruff agents, natural or synthetic thickeners, associative or not, suspending agents, sequestering agents, opacifying agents, dyes, sunscreens, vitamins or provitamins, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, mineral oils, vegetable or synthetic, mineral particles, as well as perfumes and preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

0045The cosmetic active agent (s) can be chosen from silicones.

0046As silicones which can be used as cosmetic active agents in the process according to the invention, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternized polyorganosiloxanes such as those described in the French patent application. <patcit id="pcit0053" dnum="FR2535730"><text>FR 2535730</text></patcit>, polyorganosiloxanes containing aminoalkyl groups modified by alkoxycarbonylalkyl groups such as those described in the patent <patcit id="pcit0054" dnum="US4749732A"><text>US No. 4,749,732</text></patcit>, polyorganosiloxanes such as the polydimethylsiloxane-polyoxyalkyl copolymer of the dimethicone copolyol type, a polydimethylsiloxane with stearoxy end groups (stearoxydimethicone), a polydimethylsiloxane-dialkylammonium acetate copolymer or a British polydimethyl-siloxane copolymer described in the British patent polyalkylbet <patcit id="pcit0055" dnum="GB2197352A"><text>GB 2197352</text></patcit>, organo polysiloxanes modified by mercapto or mercaptoalkyl groups such as those described in the French patent <patcit id="pcit0056" dnum="FR1530369"><text>FR 1530369</text></patcit> and in the European patent application <patcit id="pcit0057" dnum="EP295780A"><text>EP 295780</text></patcit>.

0047Furthermore, the cosmetic active agent (s) can also be chosen from fatty acids and fatty alcohols.

0048As fatty acids which can be used as active agents in the process according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of C carboxylic acids.₈-VS₃₀, such as palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, and mixtures thereof.

0049As fatty alcohols which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of C alcohols₈-VS₃₀ such as, for example, palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, myristylic, stearyl and lauryl alcohols or mixtures thereof.

0050The reducing composition used in the process according to the invention can be in the form of a lotion, thickened or not, a cream, a gel, or a foam.

0051After the application of the reducing composition, the composition can be left to sit, generally for 5 to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 30 minutes, possibly under a helmet.

CARE COMPOSITION (ii)

0052In all that follows or that precedes, one intends to designate by silicone or polysiloxane, in accordance with general acceptance, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with linear or cyclic structure, branched or crosslinked, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond ≡Si-O-Si≡), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked by l intermediary of a carbon atom on said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular C₁-VS₁₀ and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, aryl radicals and in particular phenyl, and alkenyl radicals and in particular vinyl; other types of radicals capable of being linked either directly or via a hydrocarbon radical to the siloxane chain are in particular hydrogen, halogens and in particular chlorine, bromine or fluorine, thiols, alkoxy radicals, polyoxyalkylene (or polyether) radicals and in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene, hydroxyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals, amide groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl radicals, amphoteric or betainic groups, anionic groups such as carboxylates, thioglycolates, sulfosuccinates, thiosulfates, phosphates and sulfates, this list being of course in no way limiting (so-called "organomodified" silicones).

0053According to the invention, the term amino silicone used in step (ii) denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group. We can thus cite:<ol id="ol0006" compact="compact"><li>(a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to the formula:<chemistry id="chem0008" num="0008"><img file="EP2246040A2_D0008.tif" /></chemistry>wherein x 'and y' are whole numbers depending on the molecular weight, generally such that said weight average molecular weight is between 5000 and 500000 approximately; R₁, R₂, R₃ identical or different denote a hydroxyl radical, a C 1 alkyl radical₁ at C₄, a C alkoxy radical₁ at C₄, phenyl; X denotes a C alkylene radical₁-VS₄, branched or not; R₄ denotes a C 1 alkyl radical₁-VS₄ or phenyl; p, p 'independently of one another denote an integer varying from 1 to 10.</li></ol>

0054Preferably, alkyl denotes methyl and alkoxy denotes methoxy.

0055Preferably, p = 3, p '= 2 and R4 denotes methyl and X denotes methylene.

0056Among these polymers, mention may be made of the compounds designated by the name "amodimethicone" and "trimethylsilylaminodimethicone" in the CTFA dictionary.<ul id="ul0009" list-style="none"><li>(b) amino silicones corresponding to the formula:<chemistry id="chem0009" num="0009"><img file="EP2246040A2_D0009.tif" /></chemistry>in which R₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 alkyl radical₁-VS₁₈, or C alkenyl₂-VS₁₈, for example methyl; R₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C alkylene radical₁-VS₁₈ or a C divalent alkyleneoxy radical₁-VS₁₈, for example in C₁-VS₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond; Q^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.); r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; s represents an average statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50. Such amino silicones are described more particularly in the patent <patcit id="pcit0058" dnum="US4185087A"><text>US 4185087</text></patcit>. A silicone falling into this class is the silicone marketed by the company Union Carbide under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56.</li><li>c) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula:<chemistry id="chem0010" num="0010"><img file="EP2246040A2_D0010.tif" /></chemistry>in which R₇, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 alkyl radical₁-VS₁₈, a C alkenyl radical₂-VS₁₈ or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; R₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C alkylene radical₁-VS₁₈ or a C divalent alkyleneoxy radical₁-VS₁₈, for example in C₁-VS₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond; R₈, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 alkyl radical₁-VS₁₉, a C alkenyl radical₂-VS₁₈, a radical -R₆-NHCOR₇ ; X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.); r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100; These silicones are for example described in the application <patcit id="pcit0059" dnum="EP0530974A"><text>EP-A-0530974</text></patcit>. According to the invention, it is preferred to use an amino silicone:<ul id="ul0010" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>whose amine index is greater than 0.15 meq per gram,</li><li>having hydroxy and / or alkoxy extremines.</li></ul></li></ul>

0057By way of example, mention may be made, as microemulsion, containing such a silicone, of the product sold by the company WACKER under the name of WACKER-BELSIL ADM LOG 1.

0058Amino silicones can be in the form of micremulsions.

0059Advantageously, the concentration of amino silicone in the pre-treatment or post-treatment composition is between 0.05 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of this composition, and more advantageously between 0.1 and 7% .

0060The care compositions containing the amino silicones may contain water-soluble or liposoluble active agents, having cosmetic activity. Mention may be made, as examples of active principle, of vitamins and their derivatives such as vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, vitamin C and its esters, B vitamins, vitamin A alcohol or retinol, vitamin A acid or retinoic acid and its derivatives, provitamins such as panthenol, vitamin A palmitate, niacinamide, ergocalciferol, antioxidants, essential oils, humectants, silicone filters or not, agents conservatives, sequestrants, pearlescent agents, pigments, moisturizing agents, dandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, plasticizers, hydroxy acids, electrolytes and perfumes. The care compositions containing the amino silicones may contain one or more of the additives listed for the reducing compositions.

0061Preferably, the pH of the amino silicone composition is preferably between 2 and 10, and more preferably between 3 and 9.

0062Such care compositions are described in SP1 247 518.

HEATING STAGE

0063As explained above, the method according to the invention comprises a step of raising the temperature of the hair fibers, using a heating means.

0064As a heating means, one can use a helmet, a hair dryer, an iron with or without adding steam, in particular as described in <patcit id="pcit0060" dnum="FR2921805"><text>FR 2921805</text></patcit>, an infrared device.

0065The heating step can be preceded by a pre-drying step, using one or more heating means.

0066For the purposes of the present invention, iron means a device for heating the hair fibers by contact.

0067The tip of the iron coming into contact with the hair can have different shapes. It can in particular have a flat surface; we speak in this case of flat iron. It can also have a rounded surface; in this case we are talking about round iron.

0068The application of the iron can be done by successive separate keys of a few seconds, or by progressive displacement or sliding along the wicks.

0069As an example of iron usable in the process according to the invention, mention may be made of all types of flat or round iron and, in particular, without limitation, those described in the patents <patcit id="pcit0061" dnum="US4103145A"><text>US 4103145</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0062" dnum="US4308878A"><text>US 4308878</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0063" dnum="US5983903A"><text>US 5,983,903</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0064" dnum="US5957140A"><text>US 5957140</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0065" dnum="US5494058A"><text>US 5,494,058</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0066" dnum="US5046516A"><text>US 5046516</text></patcit>.

0070Preferably, the temperature of the hair fibers is raised to a temperature between 60 ° C and 250 ° C, better still between 120 ° C and 220 ° C.

0071When using a helmet or hair dryer, the drying time can vary from 1 to 90 minutes.

0072The order of steps (i), (ii) and (iii) is indifferent. Preferably, the process of the invention can be illustrated by the following variants:<ul id="ul0011" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>Variant 1: step i, then step ii then step iii,</li><li>Variant 2: step ii, then step i then step iii,</li><li>Variant 3: stage ii, then stage i then stage ii then stage iii.</li></ul>

0073Step ii can optionally be followed by a rinsing or a shampoo, preferably, step ii is not rinsed. If step ii is followed by rinsing, the exposure time before rinsing is between 30 seconds and 10 minutes.

POSSIBLE ADDITIONAL STEPS

Application of a care composition (iv)

0074The method in accordance with the invention may further comprise the application of a care composition (iv) different from the care composition (ii). This composition comprises at least one fatty substance, silicone or not.

0075The fatty substances which can be used in the care compositions (iv) according to the present invention are all oils, waxes, silicone or non-silicone resins, organic or mineral, natural or synthetic.

0076An oil, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, liquid at room temperature (approximately 25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change. Animal and vegetable oils include essential components of propane-1,2,3-triol triesters.

0077A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (approximately 25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature greater than approximately 40 ° C. and capable of going up to 200 ° C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state.

NON-SILICONE FAT BODIES

0078As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned for example:<ul id="ul0012" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;</li><li>hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or also, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arana, sunflower, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as, for example, those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;</li><li>synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R⁶COOR⁷ and R⁶GOLD⁷ in which R⁶ represents the remainder of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R⁷ represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononaoate; and pendaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;</li></ul><ul id="ul0013" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parlameam oil;</li><li>fluid fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol or linolenic alcohol;</li><li>alkoxylated and in particular ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as oleth-12;</li><li>partially hydrocarbon fluorinated oils such as those described in the document <patcit id="pcit0067" dnum="JP2295912A"><text>JP-A-2 295912</text></patcit>. As fluorinated oils, mention may also be made of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, for example sold under the names of "FLUTEC PC1®" and "FLUTEC PC3®" by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoralcanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, for example sold under the names of “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the company 3M, or alternatively bromoperfluorooctyle for example sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the Company Atochem; nanofluoromethoxybutane, for example sold under the name "MSX 4518®" by the company 3M and nanofluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine, for example sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.</li></ul>

0079“Hydrocarbon oil” is understood to mean, in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil comprising predominantly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

0080Animal and vegetable waxes include as essential constituents esters of carboxylic acids and long chain alcohols. In general, the size of the crystals of the wax is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition which comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax is recrystallized from the oils of the mixture, microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence).

0081As waxes which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; vegetable waxes such as sunflower, rice, apple wax, Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricury, Japanese wax, cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane waxes; mineral waxes, for example, paraffin, petrolatum, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, and mixtures thereof.

SILICONE FATTY BODY

0082It is also possible to use, in the care composition (iv) according to the invention, a silicone as a fatty substance.

0083The silicones which can be used in the compositions according to the present invention can be linear, cyclic, branched or unbranched, volatile or non-volatile. They can be in the form of oils, resins or gums, they can in particular be polyorganosiloxanes insoluble in the cosmetically acceptable medium.

0084Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work of <nplcit id="ncit0001" npl-type="b"><text>Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press</text></nplcit>. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

0085When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly still from:<ol id="ol0007" compact="compact"><li>(i) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and preferably 4 to 5. This is, for example, octamethylcyclotetra-siloxane marketed in particular under the name of "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.</li></ol>

0086Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the "SILICONE VOLATILE FZ 3109" sold by the company UNION CARBIDE, with a chemical structure:<chemistry id="chem0011" num="0011"><img file="EP2246040A2_D0011.tif" /></chemistry>Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa -2.2.2 ', 2', 3.3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10-6m2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in<nplcit id="ncit0002" npl-type="s"><text>Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD &amp; BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics</text></nplcit>".

0087Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may in particular be made of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, gums and silicone resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups and also mixtures thereof.

0088The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

0089Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:<ul id="ul0014" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone-copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C12) -methicone-copolyol sold by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2 5200;</li><li>thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE;</li><li>alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT;</li><li>hydroxylated groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes with a hydroxyalkyl function described in the French patent application <patcit id="pcit0068" dnum="FR8516334A"><text>FR-A-85 16334</text></patcit> .</li><li>acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in the patent <patcit id="pcit0069" dnum="US4957732A"><text>US-A-4957732</text></patcit>.</li><li>anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type such as, for example, in the products described in the patent <patcit id="pcit0070" dnum="EP186507A"><text>EP 186,507</text></patcit> from the company CHISSO CORPORATION, or of the alkyl carboxylic type such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate such as the products sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255".</li><li>The silicone oils which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes, with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, polymethyl-phenyls; and their mixtures.</li></ul>

0090The silicone gums which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are polydiorganosiloxanes of high molecular mass, between 200,000 and 2,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils, polymethylphenylsiloxane oils , polydiphenyldimethylsiloxane oils, isoparaffins, methylene chloride, pentane, hydrocarbons or mixtures thereof.

0091Preferably, a silicone gum with a molecular weight of less than 1,500,000 is used. The silicone gums are, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes, polyphenylmethylsiloxanes, poly (diphenylsiloxane dimethylsiloxanes), poly (dimethylsiloxanemethylvinylsiloxanes), poly (dimethylsiloxaneoxyls), poly (diphenylsiloxane dimethylsiloxanemethylvinylsiloxanes).

0092These silicone gums can be terminated at the chain end with trimethylsilyls or dimethylhydroxysilyls groups.

0093The silicone resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the R units₂SiO_2/2, RSiO_3/2, SiO_4/2, in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those which are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower alkyl radical (C₁-VS₆) or a phenyl radical.

0094The concentration of silicone or non-silicone fatty substances used in the compositions (iv) according to the present invention is between 0.01 and 20% and preferably between 0.05 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .

0095Composition (iv) may contain all of the additional ingredients of composition ii.

0096Preferably, the care composition iv is applied before step i and is optionally rinsed off. If it is rinsed, its pause time is between 30 seconds and 10 minutes. The present invention is illustrated by the following examples. The contents are indicated in active matter.

Examples

0097The hair fiber treatment process according to the invention is implemented using a reducing composition and a care composition.<tables id="tabl0001" num="0001"><table frame="none"><title><u>Reducing composition B</u></title><tgroup cols="3" colsep="0" rowsep="0"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="32mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="12mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="20mm" /><tbody><row><entry>Cysteine</entry><entry /><entry>4 g</entry></row><row><entry>Hydroxypropylguar</entry><entry /><entry>0.5 g</entry></row><row><entry>Mexomere PO</entry><entry>2.5g</entry><entry /></row><row><entry>Monoethanolamine</entry><entry /><entry>qs pH 9.2</entry></row><row><entry>Water</entry><entry /><entry>qs 100g</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables><tables id="tabl0002" num="0002"><table frame="none"><title><u>Care composition D</u></title><tgroup cols="2" colsep="0" rowsep="0"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="48mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="19mm" /><tbody><row><entry>Cetearyl alcohol</entry><entry>1.5g</entry></row><row><entry>Steareth-20</entry><entry>0.5</entry></row><row><entry>WACKER-BELSIL ADM LOG 1</entry><entry>13.5</entry></row><row><entry>Water</entry><entry>qs 100g</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>The hair fiber treatment process according to the invention is implemented using, as a means of raising the temperature, either a hair dryer or an iron.

1) Example of a hair dryer process

0098This process has the advantage of being fast and not very technical, which allows the model to apply it.

0099The hair (moderately wavy natural hair) is washed with a standard shampoo and then wrung out.

0100Care D is applied immediately to the tips, without rinsing, at room temperature (22 ° C).

0101The reducing composition B is applied subsequently to the whole of the hair, by hand or with a brush. A pause time of 20 min, at room temperature, is respected, then the hair is rinsed with plenty of water.

0102Care D is applied to all of the hair and the hair is pre-dried with a hair dryer. Then proceed to a careful brushing of the entire hair, always with a hair dryer and a brush, at a temperature of about 60 ° C.

0103In the end, the hair is smooth, without frizz and the fibers are easy to style and untangle. The hair is not degraded.

0104During the following days, up to about 8 shampoos, the hair remains easier to style, with less frizz, more relaxed curls. Brushing is quick and easy.

2) Example of process with iron

0105This process is more technical than the previous one, but it has the advantage of a smoother and slightly more persistent result, while being reversible.

0106The hair (moderately wavy natural hair) is washed with a standard shampoo and then wrung out.

0107Care D is applied immediately to the tips, without rinsing, at room temperature (22 ° C).

0108The reducing composition B is applied subsequently to the whole of the hair, by hand or with a brush. A pause time of 20 min, at room temperature, is respected, then the hair is rinsed with plenty of water.

0109Care D is applied to all of the hair and the hair is pre-dried with a hair dryer. Then proceed to a careful smoothing of the entire hair with a flat iron whose temperature is 180 ° C.

0110The hair is smooth, frizz-free and the fibers are easy to comb and untangle.

0111Over the next few days, up to about 10 shampoos, the hair remains easier to style, with less frizz, more relaxed curls. Daily brushing is quick and easy.

0112The hair is not degraded and the residual odor is weak.