Dyeing composition containing a thiol/disulphide fluorescent colorant comprising amine groups and having an internal cationic charge, and method for lightening keratin materials using said colorant

(54) Title: FLUORESCENT TIOL CHLORIDE, DYE COMPOSITIONS, COLORING PROCESS OF KERATIN MATTERS, FLUORESCENT COLORING DEVICE AND USE (30) Unionist Priority: 03/24/2006 fr 0651035, 02/02/2007 FR 0753070, 19 / 04/2006 US 60 / 792,941.09 / 02/2007 US 60 / 900,361, 03/24/2006 FR 0651035, 02/05/2007 FR 0753070, 02/09/2007 US 60 / 900,361 (73) Holder (s) : loreal (72) Inventor (s): andrewgreaves, nicolas daubresse (74) Attorney (s): Carolina Nakata (86) International Request: pct FR2007051003 of 23/03/2007 (87) International Publication: wo 2007/1 i0537of 10/04/2007 (57) Abstract: fluorescent thiol dye, DYE COMPOSITIONS, KERATIN MATERIALS COLORING PROCESS, FLUORESCENT COLORING DEVICE AND USE This invention has as its object a dye composition comprising a fluorescent thiol / disinfectant dye with groupsaminates, a coloring process with a lightening effect on materials keratin fibers, in particular particularly human keratin fibers, such as hair, which use said composition. The present invention also concerns new fluorescent thiol / disulfide dyes and their uses in the keratinization of keratin materials. This composition allows to obtain a particularly tenacious and visible lightening effect on dark keratin fibers.

“FLUORESCENT TIOL COLORING, DYE COMPOSITIONS, COLORING PROCESS OF KERATIN MATTERS,

DEVICE AND USE OF FLUORESCENT DYES ”

Field of the Invention

The present invention deals with the staining of keratin materials with the help of fluorescent thiol / disulfide dyes that comprise one or more amino groups.

Background of the Invention

It is customary to dye keratin fibers, in particular, human, with a direct coloring. The process classically used in direct staining consists of applying direct dyes on the keratin fibers, which are colored molecules and dyes that have an affinity with the fibers, in order to let them propagate and then rinse the fibers.

The direct dyes classically used are, for example, benzene nitrate dyes, anthraquinone dyes, nitropyridines, azoic, xanthenic, acridinic, azinic or triarylmethane dyes.

The dyes that result from the use of direct dyes are temporary or semi-permanent dyes, because the nature of the interactions that connect the direct dyes to the keratin fiber, and their desorption of the fiber surface and / or core are responsible for its low dyeing power and for its poor resistance to washing or perspiration.

In addition, the coloring of keratin fibers from classic direct dyes does not significantly lighten keratin fibers.

The lightening of the color of the keratin fibers, more particularly, dark ones, for lighter tones, possibly changing their tonality, constitutes an important demand.

Classically, to obtain a lighter color, a chemical bleaching process is used. This process consists of treating keratin materials, such as keratin fibers, particularly hair, with a strong oxidizing system, usually consisting of hydrogen peroxide associated or not with persals, most often in an alkaline medium.

This bleaching system has the disadvantage of damaging keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, particularly human ones, such as hair, and altering their cosmetic properties. Fibers do, in fact, tend to become rough, more difficult to untangle and more fragile. Finally, the bleaching or discoloration of keratin fibers by means of oxidizing agents is incompatible with treatments for modifying the shape of said fibers, particularly in straightening treatments.

Another lightening technique is to apply direct fluorescent dyes to dark hair. This technique, described in particular in FR 2830189 and WO 2004/091473, allows the quality of the keratin fiber to be respected during treatment, but the fluorescent dyes used do not show good resistance to shampoos.

To increase the tenacity of direct dyes, it is customary to fix direct dyes by covalently bonding the hair. For example, it is customary to react dyes that contain reagent groups with cystine or cysteine ​​residues that are very numerous in keratin fibers. See for example Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colorists, Guise & Stapleton, 91, 259-264 (1975); Journal of Cosmetic Chemistry, 42, 1-17 (1991); CA 2024509.

In addition, it is customary to protect the thiol function (s) contained in a molecule to be grafted onto the hair before applying it to said WO 99/51194 hair. However, this order does not mention the use of fluorescent dyes that allow coloring or lightening hair.

Other disulfide dyes known for staining keratin fibers are disulfide derivatives of aminothiophenol derivatives. These dyes are described, for example, in the patent FR 1156407. These dyes can be used in relatively mild conditions, in the presence of a slightly reducing medium or after a hair reducing pretreatment. However, these dyes can cause color changes at the time of application.

Finally, WO 2005/097051 describes aza-imidazole disulfide dyes for direct staining of keratin fibers.

Description of the Invention

The purpose of the present invention is to provide new systems for coloring keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers, particularly hair, which do not have the drawbacks of existing discoloration processes. In particular, one of the purposes of the present invention is to provide direct staining systems that allow bleaching effects to be obtained, in particular in naturally or artificially dark keratin fibers, resistant to successive shampoo washes, which do not degrade the keratin fibers and do not alter their properties cosmetics.

This purpose is achieved with the present invention, which has as its object a process of coloring keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, mainly human, such as hair, more particularly dark hair, which consists of applying a keratin material dye composition, which comprises in an appropriate cosmetic medium, at least one fluorescent thiol dye, chosen from the dyes of formulas (I) and (II) indicated below:

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0001.tif" />

Ν /

(CH₂) -R (CH₂) —R its salts of organic or inorganic acid, optical isomers, geometric isomers, and solvates, such as hydrates; formulas (I) and (II), in which:

> R and R '”, identical or different, represent a hydroxy group, an amino group (NR_TheR_B) or ammonium (N⁺R_TheRbR_ç), An '; with R_The, Rb θ Rc, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group; or else two alkyl groups R_The and R_B of the amino or ammonium group form a heterocycle comprising 5 to 7 members and possibly comprising another heteroatom identical or different to that of the nitrogen atom, such as morpholinyl, piperazinyl, piperidinyl, pyrrolyl, morpholinium, piperazinium, piperidinium, pyrrolinium, and An 'represents an anionic counterion;

> R and R ', identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group as defined for R and R' ”respectively;

> Rg, R'g, R ”g, R” 'g, R_H, R'h, R ”h and R '” h, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, an amino group, (di) (Ci-C₄) alkylamino, cyano, carboxy, hydroxy, trifluoromethyl, acylamino, C 1 -C alkoxy₄, (poly) hydroxyalkoxy with C₂-Ç₄, (Cr C₄) alkylcarbonyloxy, (C1-C₄) alkoxycarbonyl, (Ci-C₄) alkylcarbonylamino, acylamino, carbamoyl, (C₁-Ç₄) alkylsulfonylamino, an amino-sulfonyl radical, or a (C1 -C6) alkyl radical possibly substituted by a group chosen from (C1-C12) alkoxy, hydroxy, cyano, carboxy, amino, (di) (Cr C₄) alkylamino, or else, the two alkyl radicals carried by the nitrogen atom of the amino group form a heterocycle comprising 5 to 7 members and possibly comprising another heteroatom identical or different from that of the nitrogen atom;

> R'j, R ”je R” 'je R ””, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group; particularly R ',, R''je R' ”, and R” ”j represent a hydrogen atom;

> m, rri, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10; particularly an integer comprised between 2 and 4; preferably me m 'are worth 2;

> p, p ', q and q', identical or different, represent an integer comprised between 1 and 6;

> M 'represents an anionic counterion; e> Y represents: i) a hydrogen atom; ii) an alkali metal; iii) an alkaline earth metal; iv) an ammonium group; N⁺R^TheR^PR^YR^O or a phosphonium group: P⁺R^TheR^PR^vR^O with R °, R^P R^Y and R^O, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 -C 4) alkyl group; or v) a thiol-protecting group;

understood that:

- when the compound of formula (I) or (II) contains other cationic parts, it is associated with one or more anionic counterions that allow the electroneutrality of formula (I) or (II) to be achieved.

Another object of the present invention is a dye composition comprising, in an appropriate cosmetic medium, at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) or (II) as defined above, and a reducing agent.

The present invention also concerns new fluorescent dyes of formula (I) or (II) as defined above.

The coloring process according to the present invention makes it possible to visibly color dark keratinous materials, in particular human dark keratinous fibers, particularly dark hair.

In addition, the process of the present invention makes it possible to obtain a coloring of the keratin materials, in particular, human keratin fibers, particularly the hair, without deteriorating the material, permanence in shampoos, daily aggressions (sun, perspiration) and other treatments capillaries. The process of the present invention also makes it possible to obtain a lightening of keratinous materials, such as keratin fibers, in particular dark keratin fibers and, more particularly, dark hair.

In the sense of the present invention, dark keratin matter is one that has a luminescence L * measured in the CIEL system as L * a * b *, less than or equal to 45 and, preferably, less than or equal to 40, knowing in addition, L * = 0 is equivalent to black and L * = 100 to white.

In the sense of the present invention, natural or artificially dark hair is understood to mean hair whose pitch is less than or equal to 6 (dark blond) and, preferably, less than or equal to 4 (brown).

The lightening of the hair is evaluated by the “pitch of tone” before and after the application of the compound of formula (I) or (II).

The notion of “tone” is based on the classification of natural tones, with a tone separating each tone from the one that follows or immediately precedes it. This definition and the classification of natural shades are well known to professionals in the field of hairstyle and were published in the work “Science des traitements capillaires” by Charles ZVIAK 1988, Ed. Masson, p. 215 and 278.

Tone heights are scaled from 1 (black) to 10 (very light blond), with one unit corresponding to a tone; the higher the number, the more the hue will be clear.

An artificially colored hair is a hair whose color has been modified by a coloring treatment, for example, a coloring with direct dyes or oxidation dyes.

Preferably, the composition should, after application on hair, for example, brown, lead to the results described below.

- There is interest in the reflectance performances of the hair when they are irradiated with visible light in the range of wavelengths ranging from 400 to 700 nanometers.

- The reflectance curves are then compared as a function of the wavelength of the treated hair with the composition of the present invention and the untreated hair.

- The curve corresponding to treated hair should show a reflectance, in the range of wavelengths, which varies from 500 to 700 nanometers, higher than the curve corresponding to untreated hair.

- This means that, in the wavelength range ranging from 540 to 700 nanometers, there is at least one band in which the reflectance curve corresponding to treated hair is greater than the reflectance curve corresponding to untreated hair. “Higher” means a deviation of at least 0.05% reflectance and, preferably, at least 0.1%. Such fact does not prevent that it can exist in the wavelength range that varies from 540 to 700 nanometers, at least one band in which the reflectance curve corresponding to the treated hair is superimposed or inferior to the reflectance curve corresponding to the untreated hair.

Preferably, the wavelength where the deviation is maximum between the reflectance curve of treated hair and that of untreated hair, lies in the wavelength range ranging from 500 to 650 nanometers and, preferably, in the range wavelength ranging from 550 to 620 nanometers.

In the sense of the present invention and unless a different indication is given:

- the "aryl" or heteroaryl radicals or the aryl or heteroaryl part of a radical can be replaced by at least one substituent carried by a carbon atom, chosen from:

• an alkyl radical with C-1-C16, preferably with Ci-C₈, eventually substituted by one or more radicals chosen from the radicals hydroxy, alkoxy with C1-C2, (poly) -hydroxyalkoxy with C2-C4, acylamino, amino substituted by two alkyl radicals, identical or different with C1-C4, possibly bearing at least one hydroxy group or, the two radicals can form with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle comprising 5 to 7 members, preferably 5 or 6 members, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted which possibly comprises another heteroatom identical or different from nitrogen;

• a halogen atom such as chlorine, fluorine or bromine;

• a hydroxy group;

• an alkoxy radical with C1-C2;

• an alkylthio radical with Ci-C₂;

• a (poly) -hydroxyalkoxy radical with C2-C4;

• an amino radical;

• a 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl radical;

• a 5- or 6-membered heteroaryl radical, possibly cationic, preferably imidazolium, and eventually replaced by a (C1-C4) alkyl radical, preferably methyl;

• an amino radical substituted by one or two identical or different alkyl radicals, with C1-C6, possibly bearing at least:

i) a hydroxy group, ii) an amino group, optionally substituted by one or two alkyl radicals with C1-C3, optionally substituted, and said alkyl radicals can form with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached a heterocycle comprising 5 7-membered, saturated or unsaturated, possibly substituted, which eventually comprises at least one other heteroatom, different or not from nitrogen;

• -NR-COR 'in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical with C1-C4, possibly carrying at least one hydroxy group and the radical R' is an alkyl radical with C1-C2;

• (R)₂-N-CO- in which the radicals R, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical with C1-C4, possibly carrying at least one hydroxy group;

• R'SO2-NR- in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical with C1-C4 possibly carrying at least one hydroxy group and the radical R 'represents an alkyl radical with C₁-Ç₄, a phenyl radical;

• (R) 2N-SÜ2- in which the radicals R, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, possibly carrying at least one hydroxy group;

• a carboxylic radical in acid or salified form (preferably with an alkali metal or an ammonium, substituted or not);

• a cyan group;

• a polyhalogenalkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 halogen atoms, identical or different; The polyhalogenalkyl group is, for example, trifluoromethyl;

- the cyclic or heterocyclic part of a non-aromatic radical can be replaced by at least one substituent carried by a carbon atom chosen from the groups:

· Hydroxy, • alkoxy with C1-C4, • (poly) hydroxyalkoxy with C2-C4, • an alkylthio radical with C1-C2;

• RCO-NR'- in which the radical R 'is a hydrogen atom, 10 an alkyl radical with C₁-Ç₄, possibly having at least one hydroxy group and the radical R is an alkyl radical with C1-C2, amino substituted by two identical or different alkyl groups with C1-C4, possibly carrying at least one hydroxy group, • RCO-O- , in which R is a C1-C4 alkyl radical, amino 15 substituted by one or two identical or different alkyl groups with C1-C4, possibly carrying at least one hydroxy group, and said alkyl radicals can form with the nitrogen atom, to which they are attached, a 5- to 7-membered, saturated or unsaturated, eventually substituted heterocycle, which eventually comprises at least one other heteroatom other than nitrogen;

• RO-CO- in which the radical R is an alkyl radical with C1-C4, possibly carrying at least one hydroxy group;

- a cyclic, heterocyclic radical, or a non-aromatic part of an aryl or heteroaryl radical, can also be substituted by one or more oxo or thioxo groups;

- an "aryl" radical represents a mono- or polycyclic group, condensed or not, comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and of which at least one cycle is aromatic; preferably the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl or tetrahydronaphthyl;

- a "diarylalkyl" radical represents a group comprising two identical or different aryl groups on the same carbon atom as an alkyl group, such as diphenylmethyl or 1,1-diphenylethyl;

- a "heteroaryl radical" represents a mono or polycyclic group, condensed or not, possibly cationic, comprising from 5 to 22 members, from 1 to 6 heteroatoms chosen from the nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atom, and of which at least one cycle is aromatic; preferably a heteroaryl radical is chosen from acridinila, benzimidazolila, benzobistriazolila, benzopirazolila, benzopiridazinila, benzoquinolila, benzotiazolila, benzotriazolila, benzoxazolila, pyridinyl, tetrazolila, diidrotiazolila, imidazopiridinila, imidazolyl, indolyl, isoquinolila, naftoimidazolila, naftooxazolila, naftopirazolila, oxadiazolila, oxazolyl, oxazolopiridila , phenazinyl, fenooxazolyl, pyrazinyl, pyrazolyl, pyrilyl, pyrazyltriazil, pyridyl, pyridinoimidazolyl, pyrrolyl, quinolyl, tetrazolyl, thiadiazolyl, thiazolyl, thiazolopyridinyl, thiazoylimidazolyl, thiopyrilyl, triazolyl, xantilil and their ammonium salt;

- a "di-heteroarylalkyl" radical represents a group comprising two identical or different heteroaryl groups on the same carbon atom as an alkyl group, such as difurylmethyl, 1,1-difurylethyl, dipyrolylmethyl, dithienylmethyl;

- a "cyclic radical" is a non-aromatic cycloalkyl radical, mono or polycyclic, condensed or not, containing from 5 to 22 carbon atoms, which can contain from 1 to several unsaturations; particularly the cyclic radical is cyclohexyl;

- a "cyclic radical that is sterically hindered" is a cyclic radical, aromatic or not, substituted or not, impeded by effect or steric force, comprising 6 to 14 members, which may be bridged; as sterically hindered radicals, the following can be mentioned: the [1.1.0] butane bicycles, the mesityls, such as 1,3,5-trimethylphenyl, 1,3,5-triterbutylphenyl, 1,3,5isobutylphenyl, 1, 3,5-trimethylsilylphenyl and adamantyl.

- a "heterocyclic radical or heterocycle" is a mono or polycyclic non-aromatic radical, condensed or not, containing 5 to 22 members, comprising 1 to 6 heteroatoms chosen from the nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur atom and selenium;

- an “alkyl radical” is a hydrocarbon radical with CrCw, linear or branched, preferably with Ci-Ce,

- the expression “possibly substituted” attributed to the alkyl radical implies that said radical can be replaced by one or more radicals chosen from the radicals i) hydroxy, ii) alkoxy with Ci-C₄, iii) acylamino, iv) amino possibly substituted by one or two alkyl radicals, identical or different, with Ci-C₄, said alkyl radicals can form with the nitrogen atom that carry them a heterocycle comprising from 5 to 7 members, which possibly comprises another heteroatom different or not from nitrogen; v) or a quaternary ammonium group -N⁺R'R ”R” ', M', for which R ', R ”, R'”, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or an alkyl group with Ci-C₄, or else, -N⁺R'R ”R” ', forms a heteroaryl such as imidazolium eventually substituted by a Ci-C group₄ alkyl, and M represents the counterion of the organic, inorganic acid or the corresponding halide.

- an "alkoxy radical" is an alkyl-oxy or alkyl-O- radical, for which the alkyl radical is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, with

CrC ^, preferably with Ci-Cei

- an "alkylthio radical" is an alkyl-S- radical for which the alkyl radical is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, with C1-C16, preferably with Ci-Ce;

when the alkylthio group is eventually substituted, it implies that the alkyl group is eventually substituted as previously defined.

- the limits delimiting the extension of a range of values ​​are included in that range of values.

- a "salt of organic or inorganic acid" is, more particularly, chosen from a salt derived i) from hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alq-S (O) 2OH, such as methyl sulfonic acid and ethyl sulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S (O) 2OH, such as benzene sulfonic acid and toluene sulfonic acid; vi) citric acid; vii) succinic acid; viii) tartaric acid; ix) lactic acid; x) alkoxy-sulfinic acids: Alq-OS (O) OH, such as methoxy-sulfinic acid and ethoxy-sulfinic acid; xi) aryloxy sulfinic acids, such as toluenoxy sulfinic acid and phenoxy sulfinic acid; xii) H3PO4 phosphoric acid; xiii) of acetic acid CH₃COOH; xiv) CF3SO3H triflic acid and xv) HBF tetrafluoroboric acid₄.

- an "anionic counterion" is an anion or an anionic group associated with the cationic charge of the dye; more particularly, the anionic counterion is chosen from: i) halides, such as chloride, bromide; ii) nitrates; iii) sulfonates, including Ci-Ce alkylsulfonates: AlqS (O)₂O; such as methylsulfonate or mesylate and ethylsulfonate; iv) arylsulfonates: Ar-S (O) 2O ', such as benzene-sulfonate and toluenesulfonate or tosylate; v) citrate; vi) the succinate; vii) tartrate; viii) lactate; ix) alkylsulfates: Alq-OS (O) O ', such as methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; x) aryl sulfates: Ar-OS (O) O ', such as benzene sulfate and toluene sulfate; xi) alkoxy sulfates: Alq-OS (O) 2-O 'such as methoxy sulfate and ethoxysulfate; xii) aryloxy sulfates: Ar-OS (O)₂O'; xiii) phosphate; xiv) acetate; xv) triflate; and xvi) borates, such as tetrafluoroborate.

Fluorescent dyes of formula (I) or (II) are compounds capable of absorbing UV or visible radiation at wavelength A_Thebs between 250 and 800 nm and capable of re-emitting in the field of the visible at a wavelength of emission Aem between 400 and 800 nm.

Preferably, the thiol fluorescent compounds of the present invention are dyes capable of absorbing into visible A_abs between 400 and 800 nm and to re-emit in the visible A_in between 400 and 800 nm. More preferably, the fluorescent dyes of formula (I) or (II) are dyes capable of absorbing an A_abs between 420 nm and

550 nm and reissue in visible to an A_in between 470 and 600 nm.

The fluorescent compounds of formula (II) of the present invention contain a SY function that can be found in the covalent -SY or ionic -S'Y form⁺ according to the nature of Y and the pH of the medium.

A particular mode deals with fluorescent thiol dyes with group 15 of formula (II), with SY function, where Y represents a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal. Advantageously, Y represents a hydrogen atom.

According to another particular embodiment of the present invention, in the aforementioned formula (II), Y is a protecting group known to the person skilled in the art, such as, for example, those described in the works; “Protective Groups in Organic Synthesis, TW Greene, John Willey &amp; Sons ed., NY, 1981, pp.193217; “Protecting Groups '', P. Kocienski, Thieme, 3rd ed., 2005, ch.5.

In particular, when Y represents a protecting group against thiol function, Y is chosen from the following radicals:

(C 1 -C 4) alkylcarbonyl;

(Ci-C₄) alkylthiocarbonyl;

(Ci-C₄) alkoxycarbonyl;

(Ç₁-Ç₄) alkoxycarbonyl;

(Ci-C₄) alkylthio-thiocarbonyl;

(di) (C1-C4) (alkyl) aminocarbonyl;

(di) (C1-C4) (alkyl) aminothiocarbonyl;

arylcarbonyl as phenylcarbonyl;

aryloxycarbonyl:

aryl (C₁-Ç₄) alkoxycarbonyl;

(di) (C1-C4) (alkyl) aminocarbonyl as dimethylaminocarbonyl;

(Ci-C₄) (alkyl) arylaminocarbonyl;

carboxy;

SO3 ', M⁺ with M⁺ representing an alkali metal, such as sodium or potassium, or M 'of formula (II) and M⁺ are absent;

optionally substituted aryl, such as phenyl, dibenzosuberyl, or 1,3,5-cycloheptatrienyl, possibly substituted heteroaryl; of which, in particular, the cationic heteroalyl or not, comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms mentioned below:

i) monocyclics with 5, 6 or 7 members, such as furanyl or furyl, pyrrolyl or pyrrilla, thiophenyl or thienyl, pyrazolyl, oxazolyl, oxazolium, isoxazolyl, isoxazolium, thiazolyl, thiazolium, isothiazolyl, isothiazoline, 1,2,4-triazolyl ,

1.2.4- triazolium, 1,2,3-triazolyl, 1,2,3-triazolium, 1,2,4-oxazolyl, 1,2,4-oxazolium,

1.2.4- thiadiazolyl, 1,2,4-thiadiazolium, pyrillium, thiopyridyl, pyridinium, pyrimidinyl, pyrimidinium, pyrazinyl, pyrazinium, pyridazinyl, pyridazinium, triazinyl, triazinium, tetrazinil, tetrazinium, azepine, azepine, oxepin, oxepin, oxepin, oxepin, oxepin, oxepin tiepinium, imidazolyl, imidazolium;

ii) bicyclics with 8 to 11 members, such as indolyl, indolinium, benzoimidazolyl, benzoimidazolium, benzoxazolyl, benzoxazolium, dihydrobenzoxazolinyl, benzothiazolyl, benzothiazolium, pyridoimidazolyl, pyridoimidazole, thienocyclo-heyicylic groups or if they are substituted by mono-cyclohexyls. more groups, such as (Cr C₄) alkyl, such as methyl or polyhalogen (C₁-Ç₄) alkyl, such as trifluoromethyl;

iii) or tricyclic ABC as follows:

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0002.tif" />

in which the two cycles A, Ç possibly contain a heteroatom, and cycle B is a cycle with 5, 6 or 7 members particularly with 6 members and contains at least one hetero atom such as piperidyl, pyranyl;

Heterocycloalkyl eventually substituted, possibly cationic, the heterocycloalkyl group represents, in particular, a saturated or partially saturated monocyclic group, with 5, 6 or 7 members, comprising from 1 to 4 hetero atoms chosen from oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen, such such as di / tetrahydrofuranyl, di / tetrahydrothiophenyl, di / tetrahydropyrrolyl, di / tetrahydropyranyl, di / tetra / hexahydrothiopyranyl, dihydropyridyl, piperazinyl, piperidinyl, tilpiperidinyl tetrame , morpholinyl, di / tetra / hexahydroazepinyl, di / tetrahydropyrimidinyl, these groups being eventually replaced by one or more groups such as (C1-C4) alkyl, oxo or thioxo; or the heterocycle represents the following group:

^R\ R «/ ^N* '

N - ^ / r ,, h

R (CR '^andR^{, f})_v

N '/

An where R '^ç, R '^d, R '^and, R '^f, R '⁹, and R '^H , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, or two R 'groups⁹ with R '^H, and / or R^,and with R '^f form an oxo or thioxo group, or R '⁹ with R '^and they form a cycloalkyl together; ev represents an integer between 1 and 3; preferably R '^ç to R '^Hrepresent a hydrogen atom; and An 'represents a counterion;

isothiuronium -C (NR '^çR^cl) = N⁺R '^andR '^f; An 'with R'^ç, R '^d, R '^and and R '^f, identical or different represent a hydrogen atom or a group (Ci-C₄) alkyl; preferably R '^ç to R '^f represent a hydrogen atom; and An 'represents an isothiurea counter ion -C (NR'^çR '^d) = NR '^and; with R '^ç, R^{, d} and R '^and as previously defined;

(di) aryl ((C1-C4) alkyl optionally substituted, such as 9-anthracenylmethyl, phenylmethyl or diphenylmethyl possibly substituted by one or more groups, in particular, chosen from (C1-C4) alkyl, (C1-C4) alkoxy such as methoxy, hydroxy, (Ci-C₄) alkylcarbonyl, (di) (C1-C4) (alkyl) amino such as dimethylamino;

(di) heteroaryl (C₁-C4) possibly substituted alkyl, the heteroaryl group is, in particular, cationic or not, monocyclic, comprising 5 or 6 members and 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen and sulfur, such as pyrrolyl groups, furanyl, thiophenyl, pyridyl, pyridyl N-oxide, such as 4-pyridyl or 2-pyridyl-N-oxide, pyrillium, pyridinium, triazinyl, eventually substituted by one or more groups such as alkyl, particularly methyl, advantageously 0 (di) heteroaryl (CiC₄) alkyl is (di) heteroarylmethyl or (di) heteroarylethyl;

CR¹R²R³ with R¹, R² and R³ identical or different, represent a halogen atom or a group chosen from among;

- (C1-C4) alkyl;

- (C1-C4) alkoxy;

aryl eventually substituted as by phenyl eventually substituted by one or more groups such as (C 1 -C 4) alkyl, (C₁-Ç₄) alkoxy, hydroxy;

- heteroaryl eventually substituted as with thiophenyl, furanyl, pyrrolyl, pyranyl, pyridyl, eventually replaced by a group (Ci-C₄) alkyl;

- P (Z¹) Rⁱ¹R '²R '³ with R '¹, and R '² identical or different, 5 represent a hydroxy group, (Ci-C₄) alkoxy or alkyl, R '³ represents a hydroxy group or (Ci-C₄) alkoxy, and Z¹ represents an oxygen or sulfur atom;

sterically hindered cyclic, such as the adamantyl group; and alkoxy (Ci-C₄) alkyl, possibly substituted by methoxymethyl (MOM), ethoxyethyl (EOM) and isobutoxymethyl.

According to a particular embodiment, the protected thiol fluorescent dyes of formula (II) comprise a monocyclic heteroaryl group Y i) with 5 or 6 aromatic, cationic members, comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen, such as oxazolium, isoxazolium, thiazolium, isothiazolium, 1,2,4-triazolium, 1,2,3-triazolium, 1,2,4-oxazolium, 1,2,4-thiadiazolium, pyrillium, pyridinium, pyrimidinium, pyrazinyl, pyrazinium, pyridazinium, triazinium, tetrazinium, oxazepinium, tiepinyl, tiepinium, imidazolium; ii) bicyclic heteroaryl with 8 to 11 members, cationic, such as indolinium, benzoimidazolium, benzoxazolium, benzothiazolium, these mono- or bicyclic heteroaryl groups are eventually replaced by one or more groups such as alkyl, such as methyl, or polyhalogen (Ci -Ç₄) alkyl, such as trifluoromethyl; iii) or heterocyclic, as follows:

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0003.tif" />

/

An 'in which R'^ç and R '^d, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 -C 4) alkyl group; preferably R '^ç to R '^drepresent a group (CrC ^ alkyl, such as methyl; and An 'represents a counterion.

In particular, Y represents a group chosen from oxazolium, isoxazolium, thiazolium, isothiazolium, 1,2,4-triazolium, 1,2,3-triazolium, 1,2,4-oxazolium,

1,2,4-thiadiazolium, pyrillium, pyridinium, pyrimidinium, pyrazinium, pyridazinium, triazinium and imidazolium, benzoimidazolium, benzoxazolium, benzothiazolium, these groups are eventually replaced by one or more (C1-C4) alkyl groups, particularly methyl.

In particular, Y represents an alkali metal or a protecting group such as:

> (Ci-C₄) alkylcarbonyl such as methylcarbonyl or ethylcarbonyl;

> arylcarbonyl as phenylcarbonyl;

> (Ci-C₄) alkoxycarbonyl;

> aryloxycarbonyl;

> aryl (Ci-C₄) alkoxycarbonyl;

> (di) (C1-C4) (alkyl) aminocarbonyl as dimethylaminocarbonyl;

> (C 1 -C 4) (alkyl) arylaminocarbonyl;

> eventually substituted aryl, such as phenyl;

> 5- or 6-membered monocyclic heteroaryl, such as imidazolyl or pyridyl;

> cationic monocyclic heteroaryl with 5, 6 members such as pyrillium, pyridinium, pyrimidinium, pyrazinium, pyridazinium, triazinium, imidazolium; these groups are eventually replaced by one or more, identical or different groups (Cb ^ Jalquila, as methyl;

> 8 to 11-membered cationic bicyclic heteroaryl, such as benzoimidazolium or benzoxazolium; these groups are eventually replaced by one or more, identical or different (C 1 -C 4) alkyl groups, such as methyl;

> cationic heterocycle of the following formula:

Me

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0004.tif" />

/

Me>

>

>

like the missing sodium.

An isothiuronium -C (NH₂) = N⁺H₂; An 'isothiurea -C (NH₂) = NH; or

ONLY₃', M⁺ with M⁺ representing an alkali metal such as potassium or M 'of formula (II) and M⁺ They are

According to a particular mode of the present invention, the dyes of the present invention belong to the formula (Ia) or (lia) which have an ethylene group that bonds the pyridinium part to the phenyl in the ortho or para position

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0005.tif" />

N /

(CH₂) —R (CH₂)_q-R '

R ”” i, m, m ', p, p' q, q ', Y and M' being such

R '”D'. D ”, h, Γ \ |, Γ \ |,

R 'as previously defined. Particularly, Rh, R ”h are in ortho of the pyridinium group and R '_H, R ”h represent a hydrogen atom. Another aspect of the present invention deals with dyes of formula (la) or (lia) that have groups R_g, R "_g in position 3 'and R'_g/ R "_g that represent a hydrogen atom.

Advantageously, the dyes of formula (la) or (Ha) have their amino group: R '(CH₂)_P-N- (CH₂)_q-R and / or R ”(CH₂)_P-N- (CH₂)_q-R ”'in position 1'.

As an example of fluorescent thiol dyes, they can be

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0006.tif" />

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0007.tif" />

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0008.tif" />

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0009.tif" />

The protected thiol dyes of formula (II *) can be synthesized in two stages. The first step is to prepare the unprotected thiol dye (ll-H) according to methods known to the person skilled in the art, such as, for example, “Thiols and organic Sulfides, Thiocyanates and Isothiocynates, organic, Ullmann's Encyclopedia, Wiley- VCH, Weinheim, 2005. And the second step is to protect the thiol function according to the classic methods known to the person skilled in the art to lead to the protected thiol dyes of formula (II ') · As an example to protect the thiol -SH function of the thiol dye, they can be used the methods of the works “Protective Groups in Organic Synthesis”, TW Greene, John Willey &amp; Sons ed., NY, 1981, pp. 193-217; “Protecting Groups”, P. Kocienski, Thieme, 3rd ed., 2005, chap.5.

This method can be illustrated by the method that consists of 1) generating fluorescent dyes of formula (ll-H) by reducing a fluorescent dye with two chromophores, which has a -SS (I ') disulfide function and ii) in protecting according to classical methods, said thiol function of (II-H) with reagent 7 Y'R to have access to the fluorescent thiol protected dyes of formula (II '). The thiol compound 6 can also be metallated with an alkaline or alkaline earth metal Met * Met * to lead to the thiolate fluorescent dye of formula (II ”).

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0010.tif" />

Reducing agent (CH₂) —R ' ^x(CH₂) -r

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0011.tif" />

with Y 'representing a thiol protecting group; Met * representing an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, particularly sodium or potassium, it being understood that when the metal is an alkaline earth metal, 2 chromophores with S-thiolate function can be associated with 1 Metal²⁺;

and with R, R ', R_g, R '_g, R_H, R'h, R'i, R ”i, m, p, q and M 'are as defined above; Y 'represents a protecting group of thiol function; and R of Y'R represents a nucleophile leaving group, for example, mesylate, tosylate, triflate or halide.

A Y'-SH reagent comprising a Y 'group as defined above can also be used, whose SH nucleophilic function can react with the alpha carbon atom of the halogen atom carried by the fluorescent chromophore (a') to lead to the protected thiol fluorescent dye of formula (ΙΓ):

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0012.tif" />

HS-Y '

- ΗΗβΓ (H ') with R, R', R_g, R '_g, R_H, R '_H, R '·, R ”i, m, p, q and Μ', (ΙΓ) being as defined above, and Hal representing a nucleophile halogen atom such as bromine, iodine or chlorine.

More particularly, a nucleophile leaving group may be substituted for a thiourea group (S = C (NRR) NRR) to generate the isothiurons. For example, if the thiourea group is a thioimidazoline (β), the reaction scheme is as follows:

ΟΠ. ₊ R'—

M:^R'^d (CH₂)

R— (CH,)

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0013.tif" />

R '- (Qh₂)_P > ^r.^R'\ _ / Tn ·

R— (CH,)

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0014.tif" />

-HHal with R, R ', Rg, R'g, R_H, R'h, R'i, R ”i, m, p, q and M 'are as defined above.

A variant is to use instead of the halide which comprises the fluorescent chromophore (ãl) a chromophore which comprises another type of nucleofuge such as tosylate, mesylate.

As an example, a compound that contains a protected thiol group, contains a nucleophile leaving group R, such as, for example, mesylate, tosylate or triflate that can suffer the nucleophile attack of the amine carried by the fluorescent styrene chromophore:

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0015.tif" />

Í &lt;Ú

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0016.tif" />

'SY'

Another alternative comes from the use of halides as a nucleophile leaving group in a thiol compound that can be replaced by a primary amine function, for example, carried by a fluorescent chromophore

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0017.tif" />

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0018.tif" />

According to another possibility, the fluorescent thiol dyes of formula (II) according to the present invention can be obtained by reacting a compound comprising a thiol group Y as defined above and an electrophilic group (f) with a pyridinium compound which comprises a nucleophile group. As an example, an aldehyde, ketone or a thioaldehyde, thiocetone may be condensed when G 'represents an oxygen atom or a sulfur with an “activated methylene”, such as alkylpyridinium (e) to generate an ethylene bond> C = C <. This reaction is commonly called “Knoevenagel” condensation. “Activated methylenes” means those that preferably have a R 1 -CH methylene group in position 2 or 4 of the pyridinium group₂-:

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0019.tif" />

+

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0020.tif" />

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0021.tif" />

(D with R, R ', R_g, R '_g, R_H, R'h, R'i, R, m, p, q, Y and M 'as defined above and G' representing an oxygen or sulfur atom.

Advanced Organic Chemistry, 20 “Reactions, Mechanisms and Structures”, J. March, 4th Ed, John Willey &amp; Sons,

1992 or TW Greene “Protective Groups in Organic Synthesis, for more details on the operating conditions used for the processes mentioned above.

The formed thiol fluorescent dyes can be transformed into protected -S Y 'fluorescent thiol dyes by protecting the -SH thiol, using the classic protecting groups. The fluorescent thiol dyes are metallized using also the classic methods known to the person skilled in the art, such as those described in Advanced Organic Chemistry, “Reactions, Mechanisms and Structures”, J. March, 4th Ed,

John Willey &amp; Sons, NY, 1992.

Protected thiol dyes can be unprotected by classical routes, such as those described in the works “Protective Groups in Organic Synthesis, TW Greene, John Willey &amp; Sons ed., NY, 1981; “Protecting Groups, P. Kocienski, Thieme, 3rd ed., 2005.

The outlet reagents are commercial or accessible by the classical methods known to the person skilled in the art. As an example, it is possible to synthesize the symmetrical thiol fluorescent dye (Γ) from 2 equivalents of pyridine derivative 1 and one equivalent of disulfide reagent comprising two leaving groups Gp, to lead to the disulfide dipyridinium salt 3 that can be condense, in turn, with two equivalents of aryl compound with aldehyde / thioaldehyde group 4 to lead to (! ').

R_H Lg- (CH₂)_m-s

Lg- (CH₂)-s

R,

R,

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0022.tif" />

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0023.tif" />

Knoevenagel

-2H₂G d ') with Gp representing a nucleophile leaving group, for example, mesylate, tosylate, triflate or halide. The Gp 'counterions of the compounds (I') above, can be replaced by M 'counterions of different natures using methods known to the person skilled in the art, in particular, by ion exchange resin.

The dissimetric disulfide dyes of formula (I) can be synthesized in one step, by reacting an unshielded fluorescent thiol dye with a Y 'protected thiol fluorescent dye to form the disulfide dye of formula (I).

M '(CH₂) - S — S— (CH₂) —N *

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0024.tif" />

(CH₂) _R (CH₂) -R

R P ' ^H M * | \ / i '7 ^hK i (CH,) - SY · + HS- (CH₂) - ^ N ^ ZA

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0025.tif" />

^H M '== \ (CH₂) - R ^N\ (CH₂) —R '

-HY '(I)

R— (CH₂,_q with R, R ', R ”, R'”, R_g, R '_g, R "_g, R ”'_g, R_H, R '_H, R "_H, R '”h, Ri, R'i, R,

R '"j, m, m', p, p ', q, q' and M 'being as defined above; Y 'represents a thiol function group.

You can consult Advanced Organic Chemistry, “Reactions, Mechanisms and Structures”, J. March, 4th Ed, John Willey &amp; Sons, 1992 or TW Greene “Protective Groups in Organic Synthesis, for more details on conditions used for the processes mentioned above.

The fluorescent thiol dyes formed can be transformed into protected thiol fluorescent dyes -S Y 'by protecting the thiol — SH, using classic protecting groups. The fluorescent thiol dyes are metallized, using also the classic methods known to the person skilled in the art, such as those described in Advanced Organic Chemistry, "Reactions, Mechanisms and Structures", J. March, 4th Ed, John Willey &amp; Sons, NY. 1992.

Protected thiol dyes can be unprotected by classical means, such as those described in the works “Protective Groups in Organic Synthesis, T. \ N. Greene, John Willey &amp; Sons ed., NY, 1981; “Protecting Groups, P. Kocienski, Thieme, 3rd ed., 2005.

The composition of the present invention contains at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) or (II). In addition to the presence of at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) or (II), the composition of the present invention may also contain a reducing agent.

This reducing agent can be chosen from among the thiols, such as cysteine, homocysteine, thiolactic acid, the salts of these thiols, phosphines, bisulfite, sulfites and thioglycolic acid, as well as their esters, preferably the glycerol monothioglycolate, and thioglycerol. This reducing agent can also be chosen from boroidides and their derivatives, such as, for example, the salts of borohydride, cyanoborohydride, triacetoxyborohydride, trimethoxyborohydride: sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, quaternary ammonium salts (tetramethylammonium, tetraethylammonium, tetra-n-butylammonium, benzyltriethylammonium); the catecholborane.

The dye composition useful in the present invention generally contains an amount of fluorescent dye of formula (I) or (II) between 0.001 and 50%, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, this amount is comprised between 0.005 and 20% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The dye composition may also contain additional direct dyes. These direct dyes are, for example, chosen from neutral benzene, acid or cationic direct dyes, neutral azo, acid or cationic direct dyes, tetraazapentamethine dyes, quinonic dyes and, in particular, neutral, acid or cationic dyes, azinic direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, indoaminic direct dyes and natural direct dyes.

Among the natural direct dyes, lawsone, 5 juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kerminic acid, purpurogaline, protocatecaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinocin, apigenidine can be mentioned . Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and, in particular, poultices or henna extracts can also be used.

The dye composition may contain one or more oxidation bases and / or one or more couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibers.

Among the oxidation bases, paraphenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis15 para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts can be mentioned.

These couplers include, in particular, metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.

The coupler (s) are each generally present in an amount of between 0.001 and 10% by weight, of the total weight of the dye composition, preferably between 0.005 and 6%.

The oxidation base or bases present in the dye composition are, in general, each present in an amount between

0.001 and 10% by weight, of the total weight of the dye composition, preferably between 0.005 and 6% by weight.

In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers which can be used in the context of the present invention are chosen, in particular, among the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base, such as alkali metal hydroxides such as soda, potash, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines .

The appropriate medium for dyeing, also called a dye support, is a cosmetic medium usually consisting of water or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent. As an organic solvent, for example, lower alkanols with C1-C4, such as 0 ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyether ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl, 0 monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

Solvents, when present, are preferably present in proportions between approximately 1 and 40% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the dye composition and, most preferably, between approximately 5 and 30% by weight.

According to a variant, the present invention contains a reducing agent capable of reducing the disulfide bonds of keratin and / or the dye of formula (I). This reducing agent is as defined above.

The dye composition may also contain various adjuvants used classically in hair dye compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic polymers, amphoteric, zwiterionic or mixtures thereof, mineral or organic thickeners, and in particular associative thickeners anionic, cationic, non-ionic and amphoteric polymers, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or not, such as aminated silicones, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifying agents, conductive polymers.

The adjuvants mentioned above are, in general, present in an amount comprised between 0.01 and 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take every care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds so that the advantageous properties intrinsically linked to the dye composition according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially altered, by the adjuvants considered .

The pH of the dye composition is generally between 3 and 14 approximately, and preferably between 5 and 11 approximately. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents commonly used in dyeing keratin fibers or by means of classic buffer systems.

Among the acidifying agents, mention can be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, acid lactic acid, sulfonic acids.

Alkalizing agents include, for example, ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and compounds of formula (γ) indicated below:

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0026.tif" />

N WN in which W_The it is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxy group or an alkyl radical with CrCU; R_Thego_The2, R_The3 and Ra4, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical with CiC₄ or hydroxyalkyl with Ci-C₄.

The dye composition can come in various forms, such as liquid, cream, gel, or any other form suitable for dyeing keratin fibers, and in particular, hair.

According to a particular embodiment, in the process of the present invention a reducing agent can be applied in a pre-treatment before application of the composition containing at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) or (II).

This reducing agent can be chosen from among the thiols, such as, for example, cysteine, homocysteine, thiolactic acid, the salts of these thiols, phosphines, bisulfite, sulfites, thioglycolic acid, as well as their esters, preferably the glycerol monothioglycolate, and thioglycerol. This reducing agent can also be chosen from boroidides and their derivatives, such as, for example, the salts of borohydride, cyanoborohydride, triacetoxyborohydride, trimethoxyborohydride: sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, quaternary ammonium salts (tetramethylammonium, tetraethylammonium, tetra-n-butylammonium, benzyltriethylammonium); the catecholborane.

Such pre-treatment can be of short duration, in particular, from 0.1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 minute to 15 minutes, with a reducing agent as mentioned above.

According to another process, the composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) or (II) also contains at least one reducing agent as defined above. This composition is then applied to the hair.

When the fluorescent thiol dye of formula (II) comprises a group Y protecting against thiol function, the process of the present invention may be preceded by a deprotection step, in order to restore the SH function in situ.

As an example, it is possible to unprotect the SY function with Y protecting group, adjusting the pH as mentioned below:

<td>Y: protective group</td><td>deprotection</td>

<td></td><td></td>

<td>alkylcarbonyl,</td><td>pH&gt; 9</td>

<td>arylcarbonyl,</td><td>pH&gt; 9</td>

<td>alkoxycarbonyl,</td><td>pH&gt; 9</td>

<td>aryloxycarbonyl,</td><td>pH&gt; 9</td>

<td>arylalkoxycarbonyl,</td><td>pH&gt; 9</td>

<td>(di) (alkyl) aminocarbonyl,</td><td>pH&gt; 9</td>

<td>(alkyl) arylaminocarbonyl</td><td>pH&gt; 9</td>

<td>aryl eventually replaced as with phenyl,</td><td>pH&gt; 9</td>

<td>monocyclic heteroaryl with 5, 6 or 7 members, as the oxazolium;</td><td>pH&gt; 9</td>

<td>bicyclic heteroaryl with 8 to 11 members, as benzoimidazolium or benzoxazolium</td><td>pH&gt; 9</td>

The deprotection step can also be carried out along a pre-treatment step of the hair, such as, for example, the pre-treatment of the hair.

According to a variant, the reducing agent is added to the dye composition containing at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) or (II) at the time of use.

According to another process, the composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) or (II) also contains at least one reducing agent, as defined above. This composition is then applied to the hair.

According to another variant, the reducing agent is applied after treatment, after the application of the composition containing at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) or (II). The duration of the post-treatment with the reducing agent can be short, for example, from 0.1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 minute to 15 minutes, with a reducing agent as previously described. According to a particular embodiment, the reducing agent is a thiol or borohydride type agent, as described above.

A particular embodiment of the present invention relates to a process in which the fluorescent dye of formula (I) or (II) can be applied directly to hair without reducing agents, free of pre- or reducing post-treatments.

A treatment with an oxidizing agent can eventually be combined. Any type of classic oxidizing agent can be used in this field. Thus, it can be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persals, such as perborates and persulfates, as well as the enzymes among which peroxidases, oxidaseductases with 2 electrons, such as uricases and oxygen with 4 electrons, such as laccases. The use of hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred.

This oxidizing agent can be applied to the fibers before or after application of the composition containing at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) or (II).

The application of the dye composition according to the present invention is generally carried out at room temperature. However, it can be performed at temperatures ranging from 20 to 180 ° C.

The present invention also concerns a device with several compartments or dye kit, in which a first compartment contains a dye composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) or (II) and a second compartment contains a reducing agent capable of reducing the disulfide functions of keratin substances.

One of these compartments can also contain one or more other dyes of the direct dye or oxidation dye type.

It also deals with a device with several compartments in which a first compartment contains a dye composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) or (II); a second compartment contains a reducing agent capable of reducing the disulfide bond of keratin substances; a third compartment contains an oxidizing agent.

Alternatively, the dyeing device contains a first compartment containing a dye composition comprising at least one protected thiol fluorescent dye of formula (II) and a second compartment containing an agent capable of deprotecting the protected thiol to release the thiol .

Each of the devices mentioned above can be provided with a means for applying the desired mixture to the hair, for example, such as the devices described in patent FR2 586 913.

The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention, without, however, having a limiting character. The fluorescent thiol dyes in the examples below have been fully characterized by classical spectroscopic and spectrometric methods.

Examples

Synthesis examples

Example 1

SYNTHESIS OF DIMETHAN SULPHONATE OF 1, r- (DISSULFAN0DIILDIETAN0-2,1-DIIL) BISY4 ((E) -2- <4-fBIS (2-HYDROXYETHIL) AMINOLFENIL> VINYL) PIRIDINIOT H1

OH

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0027.tif" />

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0028.tif" />

OH [1]

Operating Mode

Step 1: Synthesis of the disulfanodhldietane-2,1-diyl dimethanesulfonate g of 2,2'-dithiodiethanol and 14.44 g of triethylamine (TEA) are diluted in 100 ml of AcOEt. At 0 ° C, 16.35 g of methanesulfonyl chloride diluted in 35 ml of AcOEt are added dropwise to the reaction medium under rapid stirring. 7.22 g of TEA are added, stirring is continued at room temperature for 4:30 am. 8.2 g of methanesulfonyl chloride are added dropwise at 15 ° C; thereafter, stirring is maintained at room temperature for 17 h. The precipitate is filtered and washed with 50 ml of EtOAc 3 times. The organic phases are extracted with

100 ml of ice water; 100 ml of water, with 3 times 50 ml of a saturated NaHCO3 solution, with 2 times 20 ml of saturated NaCI, then they are dried over Na₂SC> 4 anhydrous. The AcOEt is evaporated, and 17.49 g of pale yellow translucent oil are collected. The analyzes indicate that the product is in compliance.

Step 2: Synthesis of 1,1 '- (disulfanediethyldiethane-2,115 diyl) bis (4-methylpyridinium) dimethanesulfonate

3.51 g of 4 picoline and 5 g of disutanphaniidiethane-2,1-diyl dimethanesulfonate are diluted in 5 ml of N-methylpyrrolidinone (NMP), then heated at 80 ° C with stirring for 2 h. Stirring is maintained at room temperature for 17 h. The reaction medium is made up with 50 ml of AcOEt, then filtered, washed with 3 times 100 ml of AcOEt, and dried under vacuum in the presence of P2O5. 7.29 g of brown powder are collected. The analyzes indicate that the product is in conformity and pure. NMR¹H (400 MHz, DMSO-cfe) 2.31 (s, 6 H), 2.62 (s, 6 H), 3.40 (t, 4 H), 4.83 (t, 4 H), 8.01 (d, 4 H), 8.91 (d, 4 H).

Step 3: Synthesis of 1-r- (DissuLFANODiiLDiETANO-2,125 DIIL) BISr4 - ((E) -2- (4-rBIS (2-HYDROXYETHIL) AMINOlFENIL) VINYL) PYRIDINIUM Ml

4.32 g of 4- [bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino] -benzaldehyde, 10 ml iPrOH and

1.69 ml of pyrrolidine are mixed with stirring for 10 minutes. 1.18 ml of acetic acid is added and the mixture is stirred at room temperature for 20 minutes. 5 g of 1, r- (disulfanediethyldietane-2,1diyl) bis (4-methylpyridinium) dimethanesulfonate suspended in 7 ml of iPrOH and 2 ml of methanol are added. The reaction mixture is kept stirred for 24 h at room temperature. The precipitate obtained is filtered, washed with 100 ml of acetone, and then dried. 8.56 g of powder are collected. The analyzes indicate that the product is in conformity and pure. NMR¹H (400 mHz, MeOH-cA) 2.71 (s, 6 H), 3.35 (t, 4 H), 3.64 (t, 8 H), 3.76 (t, 8 H), 4.74 (t, 4 H), 6.83 (d, 4 H), 7.04 (d, 2 H), 7.58 (d, 4 H), 7.81 (d, 2 H), 7.96 (d, 4 H), 8.56 (d, 4 H).

Example 2

SYNTHESIS OF THE DIBROMIDE OF 1, r-fDISSULFANODIILDIETANO-2,1-DIIL) BISf4 - ((E) -2- {4rETYL (2-HYDROXYETHIL) AMINOl-2-METHYLPHYL) -1-METHYLVINYL) PIRIDINIl f2 ~ |

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0029.tif" />

Synthesis scheme

Br ^ / ~ θ^Γ ss— '

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0030.tif" />

fy iPrOH AcOH

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0031.tif" />

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0032.tif" />

[2]

Operating Mode

Step 1: Synthesis of the dibromide of 1, r- (DissuLFANODiiLDiETANO-2,1-DiiL) Bis (4ETYLPYRIDINIUM)

12.9 g of 4-ethyl-pyridine solubilized in 4 ml of NMP and 15 ml 5 of acetonitrile (ACN) are stirred and heated to 80 ° C. 15 g of 1-Bromo2- (2-bromo-ethyldisulfanyl) -ethane diluted in 10 ml of ACN are added dropwise in half over 30 minutes. The reaction mixture is stirred and heated to reflux for 4h, then at room temperature for 17h. To the obtained green solid, 200 ml of acetone are added, the solid is broken, then filtered, washed with 50 ml of acetone, then dried. 23.32 g of green powder are collected. The analyzes indicate that the product is in compliance.

Step 2: Synthesis of dibromide of 1, r- (DissuLFANODiiLDiETANO-2,1DIIL) BISf4 - ((E) -2- (4-rETYL (2-HYDROXYETHIL) AMINOl-2-METHYLphenyl} -1 15 methylvinyl) pyridinium1 f2] g of 4- [ethyl- (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino] -2-methyl-benzaldehyde, 10 ml of iPrOH and 1.74 ml of pyrrolidine are mixed under stirring for 10 min. 1.21 ml of acetic acid is added and the mixture is stirred at room temperature for 20 min. 5 g of 1,1'20 dibromide (disulfanediethyldietane-2,1-diyl) bis (4-ethylpyridinium) suspended in 7 ml of iPrOH and 5 ml of methanol are added. The reaction mixture is kept stirred for 1 week at room temperature. The reaction mixture is kept at room temperature for 4 weeks. The reaction mixture is concentrated, the residue is extracted with a mixture

H2O / CH2Cl2, then the expected product is extracted with butanol, the organic phase is concentrated and the residue is recovered by ethyl acetate. The precipitate obtained is filtered, then dried. 810 mg of powder are collected. The analyzes indicate that the product is in compliance.

Example 3

SYNTHESIS OF DIMETHAN SULPHONATE 1J^,- (DlSSULFANODIILDIETANO-2,1-DIIL) BISf4 ((E) -2-f4-rr3- (DIMETHYLAMINE) PROPRILl (METHYL) AMINO-phenyl} VINYL) -Pyridine Γ31

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0033.tif" />

[3]

Synthesis scheme

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0034.tif" />

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0035.tif" />

Operating Mode

STEP 1: SYNTHESIS OF 4-f [3-DIMETHYLAMINE) PROPRIL1 (METHIL) AMINOLBENZALDEHYDE 10 10 g of 4-fluorobenzaldehyde, 12 g of K2CO3, 20 ml of NMP are stirred and heated to 50 ° C. 13 ml of N, N, N'-trimethyl-1,3-propanediamine are added dropwise to the medium kept under stirring and heated at 80 ° C for 10h. After cooling the reaction medium to room temperature, 100 ml of acetone is added. The precipitate obtained is filtered, the filtrate is evaporated to dryness and then dried. 21.85 g of powders are collected. The analyzes indicate that the product is in compliance.

Step 2: Synthesis of dimethane sulfonate of 1, r- (DissuLFANODiiLDiETANO-2,1DIIL) BISr4 - ((E) -2- {4-fF3- (DIMETII-AMINO) PROPILl (METIL) AMINOlFENIL> VINIL) -PIRIDÍNIOir31

2 g of 4 - [(3-dimethylamino-propyl) -methyl-amino] -benzaldehyde solubilized in 5 ml of iPrOH, to which 585 µl of pyrrolidine is added are stirred at room temperature for 10 minutes. 408 µL of acetic acid is added to the reaction medium kept under stirring at room temperature for 20 minutes. 1.71 g of 1,1 '- (disulfanediildietano-2,110 diyl) bis (4-methyl-pyridinium) dimethanesulfonate previously solubilized in 3 ml of iPrOH and 1 ml of methanol are introduced into the medium, stirred at 20 ° C for 4 days. 50 ml of diisopropyl ether are added to the cooled reaction mixture by means of a carbogel and acetone bath. The precipitate obtained is filtered, then dried. 2.21 g of violet powder are collected. The analyzes indicate that the product is in compliance.

NMR ¹H (400 MHz, MeOH-cfc,) 1.84 (m, 4 H), 2.34 (s, 12 H), 2.48 (t, 4 H), 2.71 (s, 6 H), 3.06 (s, 6 H), 3.36 (t, 4 H), 3.50 (t, 4 H), 4.75 (t, 4 H), 6.79 (d, 4 H), 7.07 (d, 2H), 7.60 (d, 4 H), 7.84 (d , 2 H), 7.98 (d, 4 H), 8.57 (d, 4 H).

Example 4

SALT SYNTHESIS OF 1.r- (DISSULFANODIILDIETANO-2.1-DIIL) BIS {2-F (E) -2- (4- {METHYR3 (trimethylammonium) propyl1amino} phenyl) vinyl1pyridine> Γ41

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0036.tif" />

/ \

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0037.tif" />

[4]

Synthesis scheme

Br

s

Br

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0038.tif" />

Step 1: Synthesis of the 1,1 '- (disulfanediildietano-2,1-diyl) bis (2METHYL-PYRIDIDYNUM) dibromide

A mixture of 56 g of 1-bromo-2 - [(2-bromoethyl) disulfanyl] ethane and 15 ml of / V-Methylpyrrolidone (NMP) is poured into 35 g of 2-picoline under stirring at 80 ° C ° C. The mixture (white suspension) is kept stirred for 30 min at 80 ° C. 100 ml of ACN is added, stirring is maintained at 80 ° C for 90 min. After cooling, the solid obtained is filtered, washed with 100 ml of ACN, then dried. 56.2 g of brown powder are collected. 45 g of this powder are suspended in 300 ml of iPrOH, at reflux. Once the temperature is lowered to 40 ° C, the solid is filtered, washed with 100 ml of iPrOH 3 times and dried under vacuum. Light beige product, 40.56 g.

Analyzes in accordance with the expected structure.

Step 2: Synthesis of 3-r (4-FORMiLFENiL) (METiL) AMiNOl-N, N, NTRIMETYLPROPANE-1 -AMINIUM g methyl - {[3- (dimethylamino) propyl] (methyl) amino] benzaldehyde are diluted in 15 ml of dichloromethane. 2.36 ml of dimethyl sulfate diluted in 10 ml of dichloromethane are added progressively. The mixture is heated to reflux for 4 h, then cooled to room temperature and poured into 100 ml of ethyl acetate. The brown oil formed is decanted, washed with 100 ml of AcOEt, recovered in 200 ml of methanol and concentrated in vacuo. It is then dissolved in a saturated solution of sodium bicarbonate and sodium chloride and extracted with butanol. The butanol phase is concentrated in vacuo, dried in vacuo in the presence of P₂O₅ and then the product is used for the next step.

Step 3: Synthesis of the salt of 1, r- (DissuLFANODiiLDiETANO-2,1-DiiL) Bis (2-r (E) -2 (4- {METHYL3- (TRIMETHYLAMINE) PROPYLAMINE) PHENYLPYRIDYNY) Γ4Ί

0.62 g of 3 - [(4-formylphenyl) (methyl) amino] -N, N, Ntrimethylpropane-1-amine methyl sulfate solubilized in 2 ml of iPrOH and 3 ml of methanol, to which 0.15 is added ml of pyrrolidine are stirred at room temperature for 10 minutes. 0.11 ml of acetic acid is added to the reaction medium kept under stirring at room temperature for 20 minutes. 0.41 g of 1,1 '- (disulfanediildietano-2,1-diyl) bis (2-methylpyridinium) dibromide previously solubilized in 2 ml of iPrOH and 2 ml of methanol are introduced into the medium, stirred at 20 ° C for 17 h. The analyzes show the presence of the expected product. Example 5: Synthesis of 4 - ((E) -2- (4-rBis (2-HiDROxiETiL) amino1-phenyl) vinyl) -1 (2-sulfanylethyl) pyridinium methanesulfonate Γ51

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0039.tif" />

[5]

Synthesis scheme

OH

<img file="BRPI0709366A2_D0040.tif" />

OH [5]

Operating Mode

SALT SYNTHESIS OF 4 - ((E) -2- (4-rBIS (2-HYDROXYETHYL) AMINOLFENYL} -VINYL) -1- (25 SULFANLETHIL) PYLDYLIN [51 mg of compound [1] are dissolved in 10 ml of mixture water / ethanol (1/1); 60 mg (2 eq.) of 3- [bis (2carboxy-ethyl) phosphor] propanoic acid hydrochloride in solution in 1 ml of water and 21 mg (4 eq.) of sodium bicarbonate in solution in 1 ml of water are added to the mixture.

After 30 minutes of stirring at 40 ° C under an inert atmosphere, analyzes indicate that the mixture contains mostly the expected product [5].

LC-MS analysis: LC-DAD (400-700 nm)

Column: WatersXTerra MS C18 5pm (4.6 X 50) mm Mobile Phase: A: Water + 0.1% formic acid / B: acetonitrile

Linear gradient: T (min) A% / B%: 0 min 95/5; 8 min 0/100

Flow rate: 1 ml / min.

Detection: UV Diode bar λ = 400-700 nm

Retention time t = 3.3 min Relative purity: 90%

MS (ESI +) m / z = 345 corresponds to the peak mass of the expected product monocation [5].

Coloring examples

Example 1

Staining process with compounds ΙΊ1 to Í41

Preparation of composition A

<td>Disulfide dye from [1] to [4]</td><td> 10'³molar%</td>

<td>Benzilic alcohol</td><td>4 g</td>

<td>Polyethylene glycol 6OE</td><td>eg</td>

<td>Hydroxyethylcellulose</td><td>0.7 g</td>

<td>Alkylpolyglycoside in 65% MA aqueous solution</td><td>4.5 g</td>

<td>Demineralized water</td><td>qsp 100 g</td>

Preparation of a composition B

<td>Thioglycolic acid</td><td>1M</td>

<td>Sodium Hydroxide</td><td>qsp pH 8.5</td>

<td>Demineralized water</td><td>qsp 100 g</td>

At the time of use, compositions A (9 ml) and B (1 ml) are mixed and then the mixture obtained is applied to a 1 g strand of dark hair (pitch 4) for 30 minutes, at room temperature (the wicks return and are re-impregnated after 15 minutes).

After rinsing with running water and drying, there is a lightening of the hair treated in this way: the strand of height 4 of tone became visually lighter than the untreated control strands.

Example 2

Staining process with the compound Γ51 ml of fresh solution of the compound [5] of the example of synthesis are applied on a strand of 1 g of hair of a height of 4 tones arranged in the bottom of the same container for 30 minutes at room temperature (the strands resume and are re-impregnated after 15 minutes).

Then, the strands are rinsed with running water and dried.

After staining, the 4-tone height strand became visually lighter than the untreated control strands.

Permanence to successive shampoos

The strands so treated are divided into two halves. One half is submitted to 5 successive shampoos according to a cycle that includes wetting the locks with water, washing with a classic shampoo, a rinse with water, followed by drying.

Visual observations

During shampoo washes, there is no visible release of the dye, the foam of the shampoos and the rinse waters are not colored

The color observed in the locks is preserved and the lightening effect remains visible on the hair thus treated.

Results in the L * a * b * system:

The color of the wicks before and after the 5 washes was evaluated in the L * a * b system using a CM 2600D MINOLTA® spectrophotometer, Illuminant D65).

In this system L * a * b *, L * represents the luminosity, a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis. The higher the value of L, the more the color will be light or not intense. Conversely, the lower the L value, the more the color will be dark or very intense. The more the value of a * is high, the more the hue will be red and the more the value of b * will be high, the more the hue will be yellow.

The color variation between the colored and washed AT4 strands of hair is measured by (ΔΕ) according to the following equation:

Δ E = V (L * - L_O *)² + (a * - a0 *)² + (b * - b0 *)²In this equation, L *, a * and b * represent the values ​​measured before staining and Lo *. ao * and bo * represent the values ​​measured before coloring (or shampoo).

The higher the ΔΕ value is, the more the color difference between the AT4 wicks and the colored wicks will be greater.

<td>Fluorescent dye treatment on AT4 wicks</td><td>ΔΕ</td>

<td colspan="2"></td>

<td>After application of compound 1 according to the present invention</td><td> 8,38</td>

<td>After application of compound 1 according to the present invention and after 5 shampoos successive</td><td> 8,66</td>

<td colspan="2"></td>

<td>After application of compound 2 according to the present invention</td><td> 2,71</td>

<td>After application of compound 2 according to the present invention and after 5 shampoos successive</td><td> 2,84</td>

<td colspan="2"></td>

<td>After application of compound 3 according to the present invention</td><td> 9,62</td>

<td>After application of compound 3 according to the present invention and after 5 shampoos successive</td><td> 9,88</td>

<td colspan="2"></td>

<td>After the application of compound 5 according to the present invention</td><td> 5,27</td>

<td>After the application of compound 5 according to the present invention and after 5 successive shampoos</td><td> 5,25</td>

The results in the table above show that the color changes very little after 5 shampoos. Thus, the color and the lightening effect on the hair remain almost unchanged, which shows a very good resistance of the dyes of the present invention to shampoos.

Reflection Results:

The lightening performances of the compositions according to the present invention and their permanence in successive shampoos were expressed as a function of the reflectance of the hair. These reflectances are compared to the reflectance of a strand of untreated hair of AT4 pitch.

The reflectance is measured using a KONIKA-MINOLTA® spectrophotocolorimeter, CM 2600d and after irradiation of the hair with visible light in the wavelength range that varies from

400 at 700 nanometers.

These results are shown in figures 1 to 3.

It is found, first of all, that the reflectance of a strand of hair treated with a composition according to the present invention is superior to that of untreated hair.

The treated locks appear, therefore, lighter.

In addition, the results show that the reflectance of the 4-tone hair strands treated with the compositions of the present invention changes very little after 5 shampoos. Thus, the color and the lightening effect on the hair remain almost unchanged, which shows a very good resistance of the dyes of the present invention to shampoos.