Untitled record

Application filed September 26,1891. Serial No. 406.963. (No model.) Patented in England November 11.1891, No. 19,564, and in Canada March 22,1892, No. 38,563.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HenryNewcomb, a citizen of the United States, residing at Corinth, in the county of Alcorn and State of Missis5 sippi, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Congress Shoes, (for which I have received Letters Patent in Canada, No. 38,563, dated March 22, 1892, and in Great Britain, No. 19,564, dated November 11,1891,) io of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates particularly to novel means for preventing the elastic goring of the uppers of Congress shoes from giving way, bagging, or getting out of shape.

It is well known that in Congress or elasticside shoes the rubber threads of the goring give way and break very easily on each side of the goring along the line of attachment to the leather long before the other parts of the

2o shoe have worn out. Frequently the goring gives way in a few weeks and often in a few days where the shoes have been kept in store for any considerable time. For this reason the Congress shoe hasbeenlargelysupplanted by the buttoned or laced shoe. This rapid deterioration of the goring is caused by the breaking or giving way of the rubber threads, and this breaking or giving way of the rubber threads is caused by the action of the chemi30 cals in the leather, derived from the tanniug process, or by the oil, grease, or other substances in the dressing. In addition to this the abrupt ridge usually formed by the lapping together of the lining of the shoe, the 35 leather and the goring to be united by one process of stitching weakens the rubber threads at the junction, so that, as heretofore constructed, the Congress shoe has not been of such durability as to commend itself to the public. Attempts have heretofore been made to overcome these difficulties; but they have been of such a nature as to render their use impracticable for the general public on account of the increased cost in manufacturing the shoes. My invention overcomes the difficulties without additional cost.

In carrying out my invention I secure the elastic threads to the woven web of the gore itself by a line or lines of stitching not pass50 ingthrough the leather portions of the upper, but separate and independent from the stitch ing or fastenings which unite the gore to the leather portions of the shoe. I also extend the lining of the shoe, which should be of cloth or similar material, but not oil-dressed 55 leather, beyond the edges of the leather portions of the upper and secure this extended part of the lining to the goring. By constructing the shoe in this way the objectionable features above referred to are done away with 60 and no additional expense in the manufacture is incurred.

The accompanying drawings illustrate my invention.

Figure 1 is an inside view of a shoe with a 65 goring attached in accordance with my invention. Fig. 2 is an outside view of the same, and Fig. 3 is a horizontal cross-section.

The main body of the upper may be constructed in the usual way, and the gorings 70 are secured to the leather parts by lines of stitching a; in a similar way to that heretofore employed; but less lap of the leather parts of the shoe and the goring is required. The lining a is extended beyond the edge of the gor- 75 ing and beyond the edge of the leather a short distance—say one-fourth of an inch—and lines of stitching & are made in the goring itself without any intervening leather or other substance a short distance from the edge of 80 the leather—say one-fourth of an inch or a little less. These lines of stitching also extend through the extended edges of the lining. By this means the elastic threads are secured tightly to the woven web of the goring near 85 its edges and also to the lining a, which does not contain any grease, oil, or chemicals that would have any effect upon the rubber. It will thus be seen that when the ends of the elastic threads are spoiled or broken on the 90 line of attachment to the leather parts the threads are still securely held by the fastenings &, which secure it to the woven web of the fabric. These fastenings also secure the elastic threads to the lining, which constitutes 95 an additional means for properly connecting the goring with the body of the upper. Stitching such as shown is preferably employed; but fastenings of any suitable kind may be used. The connection is such that a flat neat 100 side is given to the shoe, and the inside is smooth and comfortable. The extended part

4§2,i34 of the lining acts as a stay to the web, so that it cannot bag in the least, and the edges of the several parts so overlap each other as to form a smooth and durable junction.