Untitled record

Application filed September 22,1891. Serial Ko. 406,443. (Ko model.)

To all whom it may concern··

Be it known that we, Richard Hamilton, a subject of the Queen of Great Britain, and John G. Lewis, a citizen of the United States, 5 residing at Jefferson City, in the county of Cole and State of Missouri, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Garments and Patterns Therefor, of which the following is a specification, reference, being io had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention has relation to garments— such as pantaloons, overalls, &c.—and to a pattern therefor.

The objects and advantageswill appear in 15 the following description, and the novel features of the invention will be particularly set forth in the claims.

Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 is a diagram of the back, crotch, and fly-piece laid 20 flat as when applied to the material from which the garment is to be cut. Fig. 2 is a diagram of the front. Fig. 3 is a front elevation of a garment produced from the patterns represented in Figs. 1 and 2. Fig. 4 is a rear ele25 vation.

Like letters refer to like parts in all the figures. _e

It is customary to lay patterns of trousers and overalls lengthwise of the goods, the lat30 ter being of sufficient width. By our invention we can make garments for the lower limbs, including drawers from goods of less width and require less goods in each garment than is required by the older patterns. We 35 form the whole back in one piece, including the crotch-piece. The shape required to fit the seat is produced by folding the back upon itself and stitching along any pair of lines A⁹or A¹⁰, and we may spread the surplus thus 40 caused between said lines on the seat and stitching said surplus to the seat, thus producing a garment that will outwear those cut and made by the old style. No point on the inseam B⁶ B^6X B' on the back of the leg ex45 tends inside of a perpendicular line with the knee-line B' and the point B° at the top of the inseam falls above in place of below the seatline B², so that a good fit at the crotch can be secured. The crotch is seamless, as will be 50 seen, by the fact that the central extension or crotch-piece passes from the seaton the back 1 around the crotch and to the top of the front, being integral with the buttonhole-fly and is stitched to each leg of the garment on each side of the crotch-seams between the fronts 55 where they are joined. These advantageous dispositions of the outlines will be more readily understood by direct reference to the drawings.

A, Fig. 1, represents the pattern for the 60 back in one piece.

Ί he dotted lines A^z and A² are the knee and hip lines, respectively, of the pattern. The outer side lines A³ of the pattern may be straight and coincide with the edges of the 65 goods from which the garment is cut, and for nicety in fitting the limbs and hips said lines may be inwardly curved, as shown at A^3X, or gores may be formed on the top for fitting the hips and waist. In ordinary garments these 70 lines A^3X and parts of gores A⁴ may be omitted. Parallel with the lines A⁸ are the inseam-lines A⁵ of the back of the legs, which at their upper extremities extend inwardly a short distance, as at A⁶, this extension in- 75 wardly being to allow width for seam parallel to A³ when making into a garment. Between the lines A³ is formed a substantially-triangular crotch plate or piece A⁷, terminating in a parallelogrammic extension A⁸,which is folded 80 on line A^8X to form the buttonhole-fly of the garment. The fronts are formed after pattern B, (shown in Fig. 2,) which has the knee and hip lines B' and B² dotted thereon. The outer lines B^s may be straight, coinciding with 85 the edge of the goods from which it is cut, and with the outer lines A⁸ of the back. From about the knee-line and extending above the hip-line is a side gore-like extension B⁴, which gives the fullness at the thigh required. It 90 will be noticed that this point or gore-shaped piece B⁴ extends farther outward from the pattern than the old style.

Having the above-described pieces to make the garment, we fold the back upon itself and 95 stitch along any pair of lines A⁹ or A¹⁰, thus bringing the points A⁶ together. The surplus between the lines A⁹ and A¹⁰ is taken up and then spread, and stitched to the seat, as seen at A^10X in Fig. 4, this leaving the triangular 100 crotch-piece A⁷ with its integral fly-piece A⁸still attached. We then take two of the front

473,281 patterns B and stitch same together along the line B° B^6X. While doing so if a triple thickness is desired on the crotch, the crotch-piece attached to the back is stitched inside the said lines B° along lines A^7X. If only double thickness is desired, the lines B'^!X.are stitched together without stitching said lines A^TX between the same, and the piece A⁷ is stitched, as afterward specified. After joining the lines B⁶ we io stitch the inseam-lines B^6X and B⁷ of front to the inseam-lines A⁵ of back. If the triple crotch is then being used, there will be a surplus between the lines A^7X, which surplus is spread out and stitched to the front each side 15 of the line B⁶, said stitching coming to a point at the end of cut B^4X. If only double thickness is used, the crotch-piece A⁷, after stitching lines Β^δΧ and B⁷ to A⁵, is still free, and is then turned under on lines A^7X and stitched

2o to the fronts on each side of the line B^c, said stitching coming to a point at the end of cut B^4X. The fly-piece B⁵ is turned under the right-hand fronton the line B^5X and stitched to said front, thus forming the button-stand for the fly-buttons. The piece B⁵ on the left hand is then turned under on the line B^3X, and the buttonhole-flv, which was previously folded on the line A^sx and the buttonholes made in same, is then turned in and stitched to the under side along with piece B^s to the left-hand side by stitching, (indicated at C .) The outer edges B³ are then stitched to A³, and the garment is then complete, with the exception of the waistband, which is stitched on ac35 cording to old style. Such portions of the seat as are brought into a double ply by stitching on any of the lines A⁹ A¹⁰, are hereinafter designated as a “ surplus take-up,” in that it is an excess of material which is taken up by stitching to produce a desired fit, and 40 is then, spread out and stitched to the seat as a reinforce, instead of being cut out and thrown aside as waste. The integral surplus take-up constitutes one of the useful features of our invention. 45