Untitled record

Application filed January 24, 1887. Serial No. 225,260. (No model.)

To all τυΐιοιη it may concern:

Be it known that I, John Weir, a citizen of the United States, residing at Dayton, in the county of Montgomery and State of Ohio, have 5 invented certain new and useful Improvements in Combined Measuring-Jackets and Patterns, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this io specification.

In cutting coats and vests by the system generally in use the body has to be measured by a tape-line and various readings· of the same taken. Furthermore, the garment, when 15 basted together, has usually to be tried on and fitted to the person by taking up or letting out seams.

A measuring-jacket has beeu proposed which, made up of separable portions con20 nected by elastic cords, could be easily fitted to the person and be marked to show where the seams came. This was then taken apart, and the various pieces served for patterns.

My invention is an improvement in this 25 class of measuring-jackets, and, in addition, provides a set of permanent patterns, which save the time and trouble necessary to take the jacket apart and fit it together again.

The novelty of my invention will be herein 30 set forth, and specifically pointed out in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1, Sheet 1, is a perspective front elevation of my improved measuring jacket. Figs. 2 and 3, 35 Sheet 1, are plan views of the permanent sleeve-patterns. Fig. 4, Sheet 1, is a sectional detail showing the manner of connecting the seams of the jacket. Fig. 5, Sheet 2, is a rear elevation of the jacket. Fig. 6, Sheet 2, is a 40 plan view of the permanent pattern for the front and side. Fig. 7, Sheet 2, is a plan view of one side of the back-pattern. Fig. 8, Sheet 2, is a section through the adjustable cuff and lower portion of the sleeve of the jacket.

The same letters of reference are used to indicate identical parts in all the figures.

The jacket is composed of two back pieces, A and B, united down the center by a permanent seam, two combined side aud front pieces, 50 C and D, aud sleeves E, permanently set into the armholes of the front and side pieces. Both the front and back pieces are provided with the portions of the collar that belong to them, respectively, as shown in Fig. 1. _ The back and side pieces, as shown in Fig. 5, are 55 overlapped and united by double rows of elastic cords a, aud the manner of securing these cords is shown more particularly in Fig. 4. The shoulder-seams of the back and front pieces are overlapped and united by double rows of 60 elastic cords, as shown in Fig. 1, in a manner similar to the side seams. Each sleeve is provided with a sliding cuff, F, united to it by elastic cords &, and hooks c, Fig. 8, are provided for preventing the cuff slipping up when 65 it has been drawn down. The side and front pieces along the shoulder and side seams are provided at measuring-points with portions of tape-lines d, permanently secured thereto, and the lower portions of the sleeves are similarly 70 provided with tape-lines e. Any convenient straps,/, with buckles or hooks, serve to unite the front pieces across the breast in fitting the jacket to a person. In this manner an elastic jacket is formed which can behiade to fit per- 75 sons of different shapes aud sizes.

In connection with this jacket I provide a set of permanent patterns, Figs. 2, 3, 6, and 7, corresponding in shapeand size with thepieces forming the jacket; and the operation of meas- 8c uring and cutting out the goods is as follows: The jacket is fitted to the person aud the tape readings are taken very rapidly. The patterns, having marks g to correspond with the positions of the tapes, (see Fig. 6,) are laid upon 85 the cloth, and are traced around the lines h, i, and/. Now, supposing the tape readings to have been just one inch, upon shifting the pattern to the left one inch the lines k and I are traced. Then by shifting the pattern down 90 one inch the remaining line, m, is traced. A similar method is followed with each of the patterns excepting the sleeve-patterns, which, owing· to the adjustable cuffs,are made as much longer in tracing as the tape readings call for. 95 In this manner the process aud labor of measuring and cutting are reduced to a minimum, aud mistakes are scarcely possible.

While I have shown the application of this measuring-jacket for sack-coats aud vests only, 100

358,903 it is apparent that the same jacket can be employed in getting measurements for cutting out overcoats, frock or dress coats, and rhe like.