Garment construction

March 18, 1952 _A. _A. goldstein 2,589,367

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

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INVENTOR

AARON A.6Oi-©STIElH

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ATTORNEY.

Patented Mar. 18, 1952

2,589,367

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE

2,589,367

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

Aaron A, Goldstein, Philadelphia, Pa., assignor to Coat Craft Company, Philadelphia, Pa., a corporation of Pennsylvania

Application October 7, 1948, Serial No. 53,170

Claim.

The present' invention relates generally to improvements in the construction of outer garments for children, such as overcoats and the like, and more particularly to an improvement in the bottom hem construction thereof, it being among the principal objects of the present invention to facilitate ready and convenient lengthening of the garment when occasion requires.

Among the improved objects of the present invention are to provide an extensible hem at the bottom of a coat which is neat and simple in its construction and appearance; which is so arranged as to eliminate any noticeable bulge in the hem when in its original or extended condition; which is of normal appearance in its original construction, that is, prior to extension thereof; and which, even when extended to lengthen the coat, is of neat and inconspicuous appearance.

A further object of the invention is to provide an overcoat or other such outer garment of the type having an inner lining which hangs freely at its bottom edge with an auxiliary lining strip which is normally folded upon itself to overlie the inner fold of the original hem to conceal the same and which is adapted to be extended in such manner as to constitute an inner suspension for the newly formed hem when the coat is lengthened at the same time that it serves as a continuation of the lining of the garment when the 30 hem is extended to lengthen the coat, the auxiliary lining strip being at all times permanently secured at opposite edges thereof to the main body fabric of the garment so as to completely cover the inner portion of the body fabric and so provide conjointly with the main inner lining a complete lining for the lengthened coat.

With the foregoing and other objects which will be apparent hereinafter, it will be understood that the. present invention consists substantially in, the combination, construction, location and relative arrangement of parts, all as will be described in detail hereinafter, as shown in the accompanying drawings and as finally pointed out in the appended claim.

In the accompanying drawings which illustrate the principles of the present invention; Figure 1 is a fragmentary view of an outer garment, such as an overcoat, embodying the present invention, a portion of the main inner lining thereof being broken away in order to display some of the details of construction;

Figure 2 is a sectional view taken along the line 2—2 of Figure 1;

Figure 3 is a view corresponding to Figure 2, (Cl. 2—93) but showing the garment in its extended or lengthened condition;

Figure 4 is a sectional view taken along the line 4—4 of Figure 1; and

Figure 5 is a sectional view corresponding to Figure 4, but showing the parts of the lengthened coat as taken along the line 5—5 of Figure 3.

Referring now to the drawings, it will be observed that the main body portion 10 of the over10 coat is provided at its lower edge with an upwardly turned hem li, this hem being continuous with the main body portion 10 to provide therewith a folded bottom edge 12 which may be suitably creased as by pressing. The ver15 tical edges of the main body portion of the garment are provided, as is customary, with an inturned flap or panel 13 at each side thereof to provide a finished appearance to the overlapping portions of the garment, which portions may be 20 provided, if desired, with buttons and button holes in accordance with conventional practice.

The inner lining 14 of the inner garment is preferably of the type which hangs freely at its bottom edge, the vertical side edges of the lining 25 being secured to the corresponding edge of the coat, as by vertical lines of stitching 15, such construction being conventional in garments of this type. Preferably, the lower edge of the inner lining 14 is inturned upon itself with the folded portions thereof secured together by lines of stitching 16 to provide a hem having a folded bottom edge 17. In the garment of the present invention, this bottom edge ί Ϊ of the inner lining extends to the same point regardless of whether 35 the garment be of its original length, as shown in Figures 1 and 2, or of its extended length, as sho wn in Figure 3,

In accordance with the present invention, an auxiliary lining strip 18 is interposed between the 40 outer main body portion 10 of the garment and the free edge of the upturned hem 11, this auxiliary lining strip being normally folded upon itself, as at 19, to provide a depending flap overlying the inner surface of the hem 11. Prefer45 ably, the depth of the freely extending doubled portion 19 of the auxiliary lining strip is such that its lower edge 20 is substantially coincident with the lower edge 17 of the main inner lining 14 of the garment so that the latter normally 50 serves to conceal the auxiliary strip 18 when the garment is of its original unextended length (see Figure 2).

Referring more specifically to the construction shown in Figure 2, it will be noted that the upper horizontally extending edge of the auxiliary lin2,689,367 ing strip 18 is permanently secured to the main body portion ί 0 of the garment by lines of stitching 2 f, while the opposite horizontally extending edge of said lining strip is permanently secured to the free edge of the hem 11 by lines of stitching 22. The intermediate portion of the auxiliary lining strip is folded upon itself, as above described, to overlie the inner surface of the hem II, the folded portion of the auxiliary lining strip being suspended freely in overlying relation to the hem i I by a line of stitching 23 of a character not noticeable upon the outer surface of the garment and adapted to be readily removed without injury to the fabric, such stitching being known as tacking.

In its normal condition, as when the garment is originally manufactured, the auxiliary lining strip 18 is disposed in its folded relation, as shown in Figure 2, in which condition the relatively deep hem 11 is secured to the outer body fabric 10 by the relatively invisible, readily removable line of stitching 23. This same line of stitching 23 also maintains secured together and to the hem 11 the overlapping folded portions of the auxiliary lining strip 18. The freely depending doubled portion 19 of the auxiliary lining strip 18 thus serves as a facing for the hem 11 and in turn is covered by the main inner lining 14. Thus, in the garment as originally made up or manufactured, the auxiliary lining strip 18 is concealed from view with the result that both externally and internally the hemmed bottom of the coat is of normal appearance.

When it is desired to lengthen the coat, it is merely necessary to rip out the removable line of the blind stitching 23, whereupon the hem I! will drop into its lowered position, as shown in Figure 3, the upper edge of the hem being, however, still coupled to the outer body portion 10 of the garment by the auxiliary lining strip 18 which is then fully extended as most clearly appears in Figure 3. It will be observed that when so extended the auxiliary lengthening strip 18 extends below the bottom edge 17 of the main lining 14 of the garment, but this is in no sense objectionable because by forming the strip 18 of a material which is the same as or which matches that of the lining 14, the exposed portion of the strip 18 appears as an extension of the lining.

It is important to note that in the garment as originally made up or manufactured in accordance with the present invention, as shown in Figure 2, the upper free edge of the hem is permanently secured to the corresponding edge of the auxiliary lining strip 18 by the lines of stitching 22 without any binding or finishing tape applied thereto. When the hem is dropped, as in Figure :. 3, to lengthen the coat the edges of the two pieces of material secured together by the stitches 22 are disposed interiorly of the overlying portions : of the body fabric 10 and the lining strip 18, thereby dispensing with the need of any binding or finishing tape along the lower edge of the lengthened garment.

It will be apparent that the present invention is not limited in its application to the hems of coats, but may be employed also with good effect to lengthen coat sleeves and the like, the lengthening being obtained in all applicable instances without any sacrifice in neatness and appearance of the garment, both in its original and altered state. In either condition of the garment, the auxiliary lining strip is of such character and so arranged that it introduces no excessive bulk in the region of its application and when the garment hem is pressed there is no external evidence of the presence of the strip.

It will be understood, of course, that the present invention is susceptible of various changes and modifications which may be made from time to time without departing from the general principles or real spirit thereof, and it is accordingly intended to claim the same broadly, as well as specifically, as indicated by the appended claim.