Universal trouser pattern

Nov. 28, 1950 g. a. mongelli

UNIVERSAL TROUSER PATTERN

Filed March 7, 1950

2,531,781

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Patented Nov. 28, 1950

2,531,781

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE

2,531,781

UNIVERSAL TROUSER PATTERN Giuseppe A. Mongelli, Philadelphia, Pa.

Application March 7,1950, Serial No. 148,083

Claims.

This invention relates to patterns for men’s and boy’s clothing and more particularly to an improved universal pattern for trousers.

In the quantity production of men’s trousers, it has been extremely difficult in the past to provide properly fitting trousers unless a great many measurements are taken on each individual. For military services and other uses where it is highly desirable that good tailored fits be made with a minimum of measurements for each individual, I have found that a universal pattern saves considerable time, material and money. However, so far as is known, no single universal pattern has been devised which can include at the option of the customer, a long pleat as wide as two inches at the top.

Heretofore, it has been necessary to use separate patterns for pleated and unpleated trousers even though of the same size. This in turn largely destroyed the utility of a universal pattern since if separate pleated and unpleated patterns must be made anyhow for every size, there is no object in using a universal pattern. In production tailoring, such procedure is costly and time-consuming. I have found that with a carefully proportioned universal pattern, it is possible to incorporate a V-shaped notch in the center of the pattern that provides an excellent fit over a wide range of sizes, regardless of whether a long pleat is or is not used. In other words, an important feature of the present invention resides in the fact that with only one “draft” or basic pattern, any size of trousers may be laid out and still with the same pattern, these trousers may be provided with or without a long front pleat. I am aware that the expedient of providing a V-notch in patterns for various purposes, is old. However, I have found that such a notch cannot be incorporated in a universal pattern unless the construction lines for providing accurate fit for different sizes, are carefully located.

A primary object of the invention therefore, is to provide a universal pattern for men’s trousers in which a long wide pleat may be selectively incorporated at the wish of the customer, without the necessity of laying out a separate pattern.

Further objects will be apparent from the specification and drawings in which:

Fig. 1 is a view showing a universal front trouser pattern without a wide pleat; and

Fig. 2 shows the pattern of Fig. 1 opened to provide a long front pleat of any desired width.

The invention comprises essentially the provision of a universal pattern in which the con(Cl. 33—14) struction lines are so located that the pattern may be opened up along its axis to provide a pleat of any given width and in which the incorporation of such a pleat in no way affects the desir5 able fit of the trousers.

Referring now to Fig. 1, the method of laying out the basic pattern outline for both the right and left foreparts of a pair of men’s trousers, will be described. First, a square I—2—3—4, 10 each side of which is 9%” long is constructed.

Side 2—3 is then extended an additional 32” to point 5, thus making the total length 41%”. Likewise, side 3—4 is extended to point 6 an additional distance of 2%. The centerline A—B 15 is then constructed parallel to line 2—5 and

5%” to the left of said line. It will be understood that the showing of Figs. 1 and 2 is for the left side of the trousers so that the side

2— 3—17—5 is the pocket side of the pattern, 20 and side I—6—18—13 is the fly side of the pattern.

The width of the pattern outline at various points is then determined as follows: For the waist, point 7 is 7%” to the right of point i on ²⁵ the line I—2, and point 8 is 8%” to the right of point f on the same line. Seatline 9—10 is then drawn parallel to the crotchline 3—6 and 3%” above the crotchline. Point 10 is located 10 to the left of point 9 and point i i is located to the left of point 9. Now, dropping down to line 3—6, the pattern outline point 6 having previously been located, point 12 is to the left of point 3. The cuffline 5—13 is then drawn perpendicular to line 2—5 to intersect centerline 33 A—B at point 14. Point 13 is located 4%” to the left of point 14, and point 15 on line 5—13 is likewise 4%” to the right of point 14.

Point IB on line 3—S is then located 2A” to the left of point 4 and a straight line is drawn 40 to connect points 13 and 16. The kneeline 17—18 is then drawn parallel to, and 14” below line

3— 6. Line 17—18 intersects line A—B at 19 and line 13—IB at 18. Point 20 may then be located by making the distance 19—20 equal to the dis- tance 18—19.

The above completes the location of the major points on the outline of the trouser pattern. Starting at the upper left corner, this outline comprises points I, 7, 8, 11, 12, 20, 15, 13, 18; 6 50 and 10. The major points are sufficient for the filling in of the curves or “shaping” the pattern as shown. Intermediate points for the pocket; fly, and style pleat may then be located in the following manner: Point 21 for the style pleat is 55 measured 20” to the left of point 2 on line I—2

2,531,781 ό

and point 22, also on line I—2, is 3-H to the left of point 2. Next, the bottom of the style pleat is determined by locating point 23 halfway between line A—B and point II on line 9—10. Points 21, 23 and 22 are then connected as shown in the drawing. The notch 24 for the pocket is then located 7%” down from line I—2 on the pattern outline. The fly notch 25 may then be located % up from line 3—6 and Itz to the left of line I—4. The above completes the intermediate points on the basic pattern from which measurements are made to provide for increased or decreased sizes in a manner to be explained hereinafter.

It will be understood that this, basic pattern may be used as a standard for a size such as 31” waist and 32” trouser, length. Moreover, having constructed the basic pattern, I then draw certain extended lines on which suitable graduations may be made to obtain larger and smaller sizes which will be- in a predetermined ratio to the basic or standard pattern. As is well known in the tailoring art, one cannot multiply any given measurement by a constant and be assured of a correct fit for an individual having a larger or smaller size. In other words, a certain increase in the seat measurement bears no constant relation to the required increase for other measurements. I have found however, that excellent fitting trousers for larger or smaller sizes maj·be provided when T increase or decrease the pattern measurements for them in accordance with predetermined, increments along straight construction lines having varying slopes. This procedure will now be more fully explained.

Referring again to Fig. 1, I locate point 26 on. line 3—6, 2¼⁷⁷ to the left of point 27 which is the intersection of lines A—-B and 3—8. Point 28, also on line 3—S, is. 1½⁷⁷ to the left of point 27; point '29 is 3” to the right of point 27. I now draw straight lines to connect points 10·;27: !;2:T: 23:27: 7;26: 22','20: 8;28: and 23;2S'. All of the above construction lines extend beyond the basic pattern points as shown in Fig. 1, and may be provided with suitable graduations on which various sizes are indicated so that any larger or smaller outline may be readily obtained simply by connecting the corresponding pattern size points on the extended lines. The same procedure is followed with respect to extensions on line 3—8 and line Π—-18. Fig. 1 shows in broken lines; a pattern outline for a size 4 ί which typifies a pattern drawn in the above-described manner. 1' have found that it is desirable to mark the graduations on each of the above construction lines, in equal increments for each line. The following table indicates substantially the length of each increment for the appropriate line:

Line t8—28:. A

Lines. Iff—27 and. 23—27: u/u”

Line through fly notch 25: Line 3—6: Λ”

Line 24—29: 2%₄”

Lines 22—28 and style pleat line through point 2i: ³%4⁷⁷

Line 8-27.:¾⁷⁷

Lines 8—·2.8_; and 7—26: ³%4⁷⁷

For the sake of convenience, the graduations or calibrations on the various construction lines, have been, drawn on the pattern. However, it is entirely possible that the scale for each construction line; be marked on a. separate.· ruller which may be laid on. the construction line to which it applies;, and then, the· proper point marked direct4 ly upon the pattern. Such a separate scale can also be used to lay out patterns that are beyond the limits of the scales that may have been marked on the pattern.

In accordance with present styling of men’s trousers, it is frequently desirable to incorporate what is known as a style pleat. The lines 22—23 and 21—23 are for the purpose of providing such a style pleat and in the event that the pleat is used, the pattern will extend the full distance from point ί to point 8. Otherwise, the distance from point ί to point 7 suffices. In addition to the style pleat mentioned above, many customers frequently require a much longer “center” pleat which extends from the waist substantially below the crotchline. I have found that my universal pattern is admirably adapted to the provision of such a long pleat and once the proper size has been laid out on or with the universal pattern, it is only necessary to open the pattern the amount desired for the pleat and no other modifications in measurements are necessary.

Fig. 2 shows the universal pattern constructed as in Fig. 1, in which the pattern is cut along the centerline A—B so that it may be opened at the top and pivoted around point 14. The pattern when opened, may be used in conjunction with a scale 3G so that the desired pleat can be used. For example, if a 1 pleat is desired, the pattern is opened to a distance of 2 along the waistline of the pattern. Naturally, for a size 31 pattern, this line would be I—2; However, for a larger size, it would be a line such as 31—32. It is of importance to note in this connection, that even though the smaller graduations for sizes below 31 are used, an excellent fit either with or without the long pleat may be obtained with this single pattern, and it is therefore unnecessary to make separate patterns for the same size,, one with a pleat; and the other without a pleat.

It will be understood that Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings illustrate a basic “draft” of a pattern designed to fit an individual having certain known proportions with regard to the waist, seat and length. Other drafts may be made when it is desirable to use different proportions, and the incorporation of a slit to provide the long center pleat will be made in identically the same way.