Shoe

2,201,383

May 21, 1940.

W. C. VIZARD

SHOE

Original Filed May 6, 1938

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Patented May 21, 1940

2,201,383

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE

2,201,383 SHOE

William Carlton Vizard, Brockton, Mass., assignor to Barbour Welting Company, Brockton, Mass., a co-partnership

Original application May 6, 1938, Serial No.

208,390. Divided and this application September 29, 1939, Serial No. 297,067

Claims.

This invention relates to shoes having a novel manner of attaching the upper to the insole by means of a reversewelt of the nature shown in my pending application for Welting and shoe5 making therewith, Serial No. 206,390, filed May 6,1938, of which this present application is a division.

The novel re versewelt will first be explained in detail, and thereafter there will be explained its 1® securement to the insole in a manner to hold its upstanding lip, when made of normal height, tight against the upper of the shoe, and also its securement in a manner to hold the upstanding lip, when made of abnormal height, tight against ¹⁵ the upper of the shoe.

The main object of this invention is to improve the construction and the securement of a reversewelt so that the upstanding lip may be drawn tight against the upper by the mode of securing 20 it in place and will stay there throughout the life of the shoe. Accordingly, a further object of the invention is to improve the appearance of shoes embodying a reversewelt in their construction.

The preferred forms of the reversewelt as an 25 article of manufacture and the process of securing this reversewelt in its final position on the shoe are disclosed in the accompanying drawing, in which:

Figure 1 is a view, in perspective, of a portion ³⁰ of a grain leather welt strip or fillet as processed to produce the reversewelt;

Fig. 2 is a view like Fig. 1 showing a slight modification;

Fig. 3 is a view, in cross-section, through a 35 lasted shoe showing the position of the reversewelt at inseaming, but before tension to draw the welt tight to the shoe;

Fig. 4 is a view, in cross-section, of one side of a bottomed shoe showing the reversewelt applied;

Fig. 5 is a view, similar to Fig. 4, illustrating a form of the reversewelt having a relatively wide upstanding lip; and

Fig. 6 is a view, similar to Fig. 2, illustrating how a reversewelt as shown in Fig. 5 may be 45 fashioned from a strip or fillet.

In the embodiment of the invention illustrated by the drawing:

The simplest form of the welt is as shown in Fig. 1. Here one edge face of a strip 10, eventu50 allv the sewing-edge of the completed welt, is split at 11 beneath the grain for a short distance inward forming two lips 12 and 14 the upper grain-faced lip preferably being somewhat thinner than the lower flesh lip. When the reverse 55 bend is intended to show more or less as a bead (Cl. 36—17) at the shoe crease the depth of the slit will be about Λ” in a strip prepared for preserving a A” extension or flap that, after inseaming, protrudes outward from the shoe crease. The flesh strip 16, (shown dotted) of substantially the 5 width of the extension, is also removed from beneath the grain of the strip 10. The strip 16 should be sufficiently thin so as not unduly to reduce the weight of the extension but also sufficiently heavy to produce a definite shoulder 18 1° at a point adjacent to but spaced from the root of the slit between said lips by a distance substantially the thickness of the lower lip. On the grain face, just back of the root of the slit, a shallow longitudinal '/-groove 20 may be cut to ¹⁵facilitate turning the grain-faced lip 12 upward to stand substantially upright at the inner edge of the extension 22 when the welt is embodied in a completed shoe (see Fig. 4). The combined shoulder cut and groove provides pliability at an 20 important point in the welt width.

Fig. 2 shows a slightly modified welt preparation which renders the reversewelt more pliable and, as will be explained, enables it to be drawn very snugly against the recess in the upper as it 25 lies lasted in over the feather 24 and the sewing rib 26 of the insole (see Fig. 3). The difference between Fig. 2 and Fig. 1 is that movement or bending of the extension relatively to the split edge portion is enhanced by further relieving the ³⁰stiffness of the stock along the inner edge of the extension so that the lips may be spread widely. This relief is obtained by removing some of the flesh stock at this point. Preferably a thinning of the stock is accomplished by forming a small ³⁵longitudinal groove 28 in the flesh of the extension adjacent the shoulder 18 which groove is shown as U-shaped but which may be V-shaped or otherwise so long as it will serve to give the relief desired. This construction of the reverseweft 40 is preferred in practice by some shoe manufacturers because it permits the extension 22, without strain, to take the differing angular positions relative to the lip 12 required for inseaming and welt beating as illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4. A 45 groove at this point also serves to receive the inseam thereby aiding inseam trimming. This thinning of the stock through which the thread of the inseam passes enables the welter to sew a tighter inseam by drawing the spread lips close 50 against the upper of the shoe.

Fig. 3 illustrates the relation of the parts of the reversewelt as it emerges from the welt guide and is sewed in place against the upper. At this stage the lips 12 and 14 are spread to fit over the 55

2.201.383 shoulder at the feather edge of the insole 30 with the welt shoulder 18, or the groove 28, positioned in a plane well above the base of the sewing rib 26 forming a guide for the welter to strike the β needle through and stitch the inseam in the best location (as shown) for drawing the lip 12 snugly against the upper.

Fig. 4 illustrates the final form and position of the reversewelt when the shoe is completed. The 10 butt of the flesh lip 14, due to the novel form of the reversewelt, hugs the upper as it curves inward beneath the feather 24 (Fig. 3) of the insole 30, the remainder of said flesh lip having been inseam trimmed; the upstanding grain15 faced lip 12 is tightly stitched and held against the bulged upper at the ball or concaved upper at the shank, as the case may be, by the tensioned inseam passed through its lower or base portion; and the extension 22, previously beaten into the 20 plane of the lasted shoe bottom, lies in a position of full contact with the outsole 32. There is a clearly defined angle between the upstanding lip 12 and extension 22 and the exposed grain extending without break across the faces of both 25 of these parts of the reversewelt.

In the manufacture of women’s shoes both the upper groove 20 and the under groove 28, as used in Fig. 2, enable the welt to fit snugly into the welt crease and at the same time permit the in30 seam thread to sink into the groove 28, thus providing for a smooth flat welt extension attached to the outsole 32 by the outseam stitch; but in men’s shoes, having a heavier construction than women’s shoes, it is ordinarily found 35 sufficient to merely utilize the upper groove 20 as used in Fig. 1.

It will be understood that the height of the lip 12 may be varied as desired, that is, instead of being relatively narrow or bead-like as shown in 40 Fig· 4 it may be run a considerable distance up the upper, all determined by the width of the grain face of the original strip 10 from which the reverse welt is fashioned and the depth of the edge slit if. In the case of a reversewelt fash45 ioned to provide a wide upper-enclosing band to present the appearance of a rugged construction of shoe, the reversewelt, preparatory to inseaming, may appear as shown in Fig. 6, differing from Fig. 1 merely in lengthening the grain50 faced lip 34, to provide a protective wall about the upper. The extra flash 36, indicated as severed from the flash lip 14 by dotted lines 36, may be longer than as indicated to give the lip 14 sufficient length for lasting the reversewelt in 65 under the insole according to some methods of manufacture, the extra length being trimmed off at the inseaming operation. When the lip 34 is of considerable depth, the flesh stock severed from beneath it may be utilized as stitchdown 60 welting or other useful purposes. It is desirable to secure this outer lip or wall 34 to the upper conveniently by a single seam 38, although rows of seams may be utilized, or fancy stitching, lacing or otherwise for this purpose. It is within 65 the scope of the invention for those who desire decorative effects to pink the top of the lip or to decorate it in various ways as by punching or otherwise, or by any kind of ornamental fastening available.

The seam 38 for securing the upper edge of the lip 34 to the upper and other seams made parallel to it if desired may be made by first fastening the welt to the upper at a predetermined position along the free margin of the upper and then 75 lasting the reversewelt and upper as a single piece against the insole and sewing the inseam as before. Another way of stitching a reversewelt, with an abnormal upstanding lip, to the shoe is by a type of McKay sewing machine which, after the last is drawn from the lasted ⁸shoe, will have a part which fits within the shoe. In this case it is convenient to use a short vamp, that is, one which is not long enough to be lasted beneath the insole and would be held in position solely by the seam 38, as in Fig. 5. 10

The use of the reversewelt of this invention tends to prevent the upper from “running-over” on the welt extension as the shoe wears, locks the upper engaging lip or bead firmly to the shoe, and preserves an integral effect of the lip and ex- 15 tension as desired by manufacturers.

While the reversewelt has been described as being produced from grain leather obviously it is within the scope of the invention to use any other material or combinations of materials suit- 20 able for the manufacture of welting.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and its preferred embodiments having been specifically described, the invention in its true scope is defined by the following 25 claims.