Ab template for size graduation of garment patterns and method of constructing size graduated garment patterns

The subject of the invention is a method for grading molds and a template for grading molds especially for changing the size of the mold depending on the size used in mass production of clothing.

From GB 2151 126 A, a template is known for constructing a mold block. The template has a rectangular shape and longitudinal holes of different directions and shapes. This template is used to draw a block of clothing of a specific size.

From EP0318439A1, a template is known for constructing a mold block. The template has a rectangular shape and many holes with different elongated shapes. This template is used to draw a block of clothing of a specific size.

The method of constructing a clothing form block using a template consists in placing the template on a sheet on which the form block is to be drawn, positioning it at the required point and at the required angle, and then drawing the appropriate section of the constructed form block according to the corresponding section bore template. Individual operations are repeated until the entire form block is drawn.

The object of the present invention is to provide a method and template for enlarging or reducing a finished mold block.

The method of grading the forms is based on the fact that a sheet of the initial size is drawn on the sheet, according to the invention it is characterized in that a template is applied to the basic points of the mold block, the basic point of the basic block is set in accordance with the corresponding point of the mold block by initial size, then the template is set according to the coordinate axes of the size block

173 902 initial and through the corresponding holes are marked with a line and marked divisions, then the above steps are repeated for a large number of points increasing or decreasing, and then the marked points on the sheet are combined to obtain a mapping of the mold block in the desired sizes.

Preferably, grading begins with one size.

The template for grading the forms having a rectangular shape, two sides and many longitudinal holes of different lengths and direction and having metric divisions according to the invention is characterized by the fact that it has patterns of basic blocks of clothing marked on it, in which the basic points are set longitudinal holes of different lengths and directions with marked scales indicating increase and decrease, and has a detailed form indicating three-dimensional gradation.

Preferably, the marked base block patterns are at least partially surrounded by a metric scale.

Preferably, the template has additional holes with marked scales located near the base blocks.

By means of the method according to the invention, starting from a single initial size, the simultaneous construction of all required size variants of different types and parts of clothing, in accordance with international size standards, is simple, reliable and with absolute precision, in a minimum time, without the use of geometry and complex calculations .

The template according to the invention allows grading a form block of any garment that contains all the required variants in accordance with standardized international sizes and can be used for grading each of the various pieces of clothing in a simple, reliable and absolutely accurate manner, in a minimum short time without using geometry and complex calculations.

The object of the invention in an embodiment is shown in the drawing, in which Fig. 1 shows the template according to the invention in plan view, and Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4, Fig. 5 and Fig. 6 show the subsequent stages of the method of grading the size of the mold block using the template in Fig. 1.

Figure 1 shows a template 10 having a rectangular shape and two sides and a series of drawings of various forms bearing the designations A, B, C, D, E, F, G, where A is a quarter of the front upper basic block, B is the basic sleeve block, C is a quarter rear upper base block, D is the front quarter of the skirt, E is the front quarter of the pants block, F is the back quarter of the skirt, G is the back quarter of the pants block.

At various locations around basic A, B, C, D, E, F, G, template 10 has a larger number of holes 12 that include appropriate further divisions and grading scales for various international sizes. The holes 12 are located adjacent to the basic dimension points of the basic blocks A, B, C, D, E, F, G, representing clothing parts. Each basic block A, B, C, D, E, F, G is placed inside the section, and on the perimeter of each section of the template 10 there is a metric scale 14 necessary to set and position the right angle of the template 10 relative to the basic existing coordinate axes of the mold block . Template 10 is also equipped with additional auxiliary holes X located near the basic blocks A, B, C, D, E, F, G, and with a detailed Z form indicating three-dimensional grading and grading place. Figures 2 to 6 show the subsequent stages of the method for enlarging the mold block using template 10, where Figure 2 shows the first stage of the method. Before this stage, a block of basic initial size, e.g. European size 46, is drawn on a sheet of paper, which we want to graduate dimensionally, e.g. the front of a women's bra, leaving a space around it so that it can fit all the required graded sizes. The template 10 is placed above the mold block so that the point from which the first size step is to start, for example the mid-front waist point of the bra, as shown in Fig. 2 coincides with the same point on base block A on szab4

173 902 bosom 10. Template 10 is set at right angles to the basic coordinate axis of the mold block and the appropriate hole 12 is used to mark the line of the mold block and further divide the data through the template 10. Then the template 10 moves to the next gradation point on the initial block molds, e.g. up to the neck curve, as shown in Fig. 3 and again a right angle is formed with the coordinate axes of the basic mold block. The line and its further divisions are then marked through the appropriate opening 12.

This process is continued for the next gradation point on the initial mold block, namely the neck point on the shoulder as shown in Fig. 4, and the template 10 is placed such that this point contacts the corresponding point in the opening 12 of the template 10 and forms right angle as before. Then the line and further divisions are marked and the hole 12 is marked.

The same procedure is repeated for the remaining size grading points as shown in Figs. 5 and 6, placing the respective holes 12 in the corresponding places of the mold block and marking lines and their further divisions through them.

Finally, corresponding points are connected together, for example A 'with B', D through E 'with 2' further divisions with straight lines and curves parallel to each other and to the line of the initial block of the form, and thus six blocks of completely proportional are formed there sizes.

Furthermore, in the manner specified, sizes can be reduced, starting from the large initial size block of the mold and placing the template 10 such that the largest further division of each opening 12 contacts the corresponding point of the initial block of the mold.

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