Dyeing or lightening process using a composition rich in fatty substances comprising a solid alcohol and a solid ester, compositions and device

The present invention uses a mixture of an oil-rich direct emulsion containing at least one solid fatty alcohol and at least one particular solid ester, at least one dye and / or basicizing agent, and an oxidizing composition, humans. A method for dyeing or lightening keratin fibers, wherein the mixture comprises at least 25% by weight of a fatty substance and at least one oxidizing agent.

The present invention also relates to multi-compartment devices suitable for carrying out this method, and compositions in direct emulsion form.

Among the methods for dyeing human keratin fibers such as hair, oxidative dyeing or permanent dyeing can be mentioned. More specifically, this dyeing method uses one or more oxidation dyes, usually one or more oxidation bases in optional combination with one or more couplers.

Generally, the oxidation base is selected from ortho- or para-phenylenediamine, ortho- or para-aminophenol and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or lightly colored compounds that can be combined with oxidizing products to give colored species.

The shades obtained on these oxidation bases are often altered by combining them with one or more color formers, which are especially aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols. And selected from specific heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds.

The diversity of molecules used as oxidation bases and color formers makes it possible to obtain a wide range of colors.

It is also possible to add direct dyes, which are colored and colored molecules that have an affinity for fibers, to these compositions. Commonly used direct dyes are selected from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine and triarylmethane direct dyes. The presence of such compounds makes it possible to further darken the resulting tint of coloration or increase the chromaticity of the resulting coloration.

Therefore, the oxidative dyeing method essentially comprises the step of using a composition containing at least one oxidant, generally hydrogen peroxide, with these dye compositions under alkaline pH conditions in most cases. The role of this oxidant is to reveal the coloration through an oxidative condensation reaction between the oxidative dyes.

One of the problems arises from the fact that the decolorization method is carried out under alkaline conditions, and that the most commonly used alkalizing agent is aqueous ammonia. Ammonia water is particularly advantageous in this type of method. Specifically, it allows the pH of the composition to be adjusted to an alkaline pH to allow activation of the oxidant. This agent opens the pattern and also results in the swelling of the keratin fibers, which promotes the penetration of the oxidant and oxidative dye into the fibers and thus increases the potency of the reaction.

This basicizing agent is highly volatile, which causes discomfort to the user due to the strong and fairly unpleasant odor of ammonia emitted during the procedure.

In addition, the amount of ammonia emitted requires higher levels of use than is required to compensate for this loss. This does not affect the user, and not only does the user remain inconvenienced by the odor, but he may also face a greater risk of intolerance, such as inflammation of the scalp (tingling sensation). ..

The option of simply replacing all or part of the aqueous ammonia with one or more other conventional basicizing agents, especially these basicizing agents, provides sufficient decolorization of colored fibers in the presence of oxidizing agents. , Or does not produce compositions that are as effective as those based on aqueous ammonia, because they do not provide sufficient coloration in terms of color intensity, strength, chromaticity or uniformity.

<p><patcit num="1"><text>US-A-4 874 554</text></patcit><patcit num="2"><text>US-A-4 137 180</text></patcit><patcit num="3"><text>GB 1 026 978</text></patcit><patcit num="4"><text>GB 1 153 196</text></patcit><patcit num="5"><text>FR 2 801 308</text></patcit><patcit num="6"><text>DE 2359399</text></patcit><patcit num="7"><text>JP 88-169571</text></patcit><patcit num="8"><text>JP 05-63124</text></patcit><patcit num="9"><text>EP 0770375</text></patcit><patcit num="10"><text>WO 96/15765</text></patcit><patcit num="11"><text>DE 3843892</text></patcit><patcit num="12"><text>DE 4133957</text></patcit><patcit num="13"><text>WO 94/08969</text></patcit><patcit num="14"><text>WO 94/08970</text></patcit><patcit num="15"><text>FR-A-2 733 749</text></patcit><patcit num="16"><text>DE 195 43 988</text></patcit><patcit num="17"><text>FR-A-2 886 136</text></patcit><patcit num="18"><text>FR 2 673 179</text></patcit></p>

<p><nplcit num="1"><text>Walter Noll, "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic Press</text></nplcit><nplcit num="2"><text>Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd &amp; Byers: Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics</text></nplcit><nplcit num="3"><text>CTFA Dictionary, 5th Edition, 1993</text></nplcit><nplcit num="4"><text>Handbook of Surfactants by MR Porter, published by Blackie &amp; Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178</text></nplcit><nplcit num="5"><text>Downing, Arch. Dermatol., Vol. 123, pp. 13811384, 1987</text></nplcit></p>

<p> One object of the present invention is to propose methods for dyeing and bleaching keratin materials, especially keratin fibers such as hair, which are used in existing compositions due to the presence of large amounts of ammonia. It does not have the drawbacks of the methods, but at the same time is at least equally effective with respect to staining and bleaching and the homogeneity of this bleaching.</p><p> Oxidative staining must further meet a certain number of requirements. Therefore, it must not have toxicological drawbacks and it must be able to obtain shades with the desired intensity, which is external such as light, bad weather, cleaning, permanent waving, sweat and rubbing. Must show excellent resistance to attack factors.</p><p> The dyeing method must also be able to hide the gray hair and, finally, be as non-selective as possible, i.e. it is differently sensitive from its tip to its root (ie damage). The smallest possible color difference must be produced along the same keratin fiber that generally contains the area (which it receives).</p><p> The compositions used in the dyeing method are intended to have excellent mixing and coating properties on keratin fibers, in particular, along the face when they are applied, onto the scalp, or it stains. It must have excellent flow characteristics so that it does not flow beyond the region.</p><p> The composition in emulsion form must also be stable, especially with respect to "phase separation", that is, it must not return to two phases, one organic phase and the other aqueous phase. Here, if the composition in direct emulsion form is rich in oil, i.e. 30 relative to the total weight of the composition, fatty alcohol solid at room temperature and at least one basicizing agent and / or at least one dye. Emulsion instability often appears, especially at high temperatures, when it contains more than% by weight of oil.</p><p> For methods for decolorizing keratin fibers, aqueous compositions containing at least one oxidizing agent are often utilized under alkaline pH conditions. The role of this oxidant is to break down the melanin in the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidant present, leads to more or less significant decolorization of the fibers.</p><p> Many attempts have been made in the field of bleaching hair dyes, for example to improve dyeing properties with adjuvants. However, the choice of these adjuvants is difficult as long as the dyeing properties of those compositions must be improved without compromising the other performance of the dye compositions. In particular, these adjuvants must not impair the bleaching and dyeing properties of keratin fibers.</p><p> Similar problems arise with bleach compositions in which the addition of a particular adjuvant should not impair the bleaching properties of the composition or the coating properties of the composition, especially the flow properties.</p><p> An object of the present invention is to obtain a novel method for dyeing keratin fibers, particularly for oxidative dyeing or decolorization, which does not have the drawbacks of the prior art.</p><p> More specifically, an object of the present invention is keratin, which has improved dyeing properties, can achieve the desired decolorization, is easy to prepare and apply, and is particularly localized to the application point without the mixture flowing. To obtain a method for oxidative dyeing of fibers. The term "improved staining properties" specifically means improved strength / intensity and / or homogeneity of staining results.</p><p> Another object of the present invention is that the desired decolorization can be achieved, it is easy to prepare, mix and apply, especially the mixture is localized at the application point without flowing and produces no odor or almost no unpleasant odor. It is also to obtain a method for bleaching human keratin fibers such as hair.</p><p> Another object of the present invention is to obtain an oil-rich direct emulsion that is particularly temperature stable, even in the absence of thickeners.</p>

<p> These objectives are achieved by the present invention, one of which is a method of dyeing or bleaching human keratin fibers, the step of immediately mixing the two compositions (A) and (B) at the time of use, and the step thereof. It essentially comprises the step of applying the mixture to the fibers; the mixture contains at least 25% by weight of fatty material relative to the total weight of the mixture of compositions (A) + (B); * Composition (A) is -At least 30% by weight oil (i); -At least one fatty alcohol (ii) that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure; -At least one fatty ester (iii) that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure; -At least one surfactant (iv); At least one basicizing agent (v) and / or at least one dye (vi) selected from oxidation dyes and direct dyes and mixtures thereof. Is in the form of a direct emulsion containing; * Composition (B) is a method comprising at least one chemical oxidant.</p><p> The present invention -In the first compartment, -At least 30% by weight oil (i); -At least one fatty alcohol (ii) that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure; At least one fatty ester that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, selected from esters of saturated carboxylic acids containing at least 10 carbon atoms and esters of saturated fatty monohydric alcohols containing at least 10 carbon atoms ( iii); -At least one surfactant (iv); At least one basicizing agent (v) and / or at least one dye (vi) selected from oxidation dyes and direct dyes and mixtures thereof. Composition in the form of a direct emulsion containing (A); -Composition containing at least one oxidant in the second compartment (B) Is a two-compartment device containing -Regarding the device, the mixture of compositions (A) and (B) is also understood to contain at least 25% by weight of fatty material.</p><p> Similarly, the subject of the present invention is a composition in the form of an oxidant-free direct emulsion, including: -At least 30% by weight oil (i); -At least one fatty alcohol (ii) that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure; At least one fatty ester that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, selected from esters of saturated carboxylic acids containing at least 10 carbon atoms and esters of saturated fatty monohydric alcohols containing at least 10 carbon atoms ( iii); -At least one surfactant (iv); -At least one basicizing agent (v) and / or at least one dye (vi) selected from oxidation dyes and direct dyes and mixtures thereof.</p><p> Other properties and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent by reading the descriptions and examples that follow.</p><p> In the text below, the limits of the range of values are included in that range unless otherwise stated.</p><p> The human keratin fibers treated by the method according to the invention are preferably hair.</p><p> The expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more".</p><p> The term "direct emulsion" means a microscopically heterogeneous and macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two oil-in-water (O / W) types of immiscible liquid substances. The emulsion is composed of an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.</p><p> For the purposes of the present invention, therefore, the term "emulsion" means a true emulsion, which should be distinguished from a microemulsion, which is a thermodynamically stable system, unlike a true emulsion. The droplet size of the dispersed phase of the emulsion of the present invention is preferably between 10 nm and 100 μm, preferably between 200 nm and 50 μm.</p><p> This is the average diameter D (3.2), which can be measured specifically using a laser particle size meter.</p><p> Direct emulsions can be prepared by standard emulsion preparation methods well known to those of skill in the art.</p><p> If the method according to the invention is a bleaching method, it does not incorporate direct dyes or oxidative dye precursors (bases and color formers) commonly used for dyeing human keratin fibers, or it directly dyes. Even when used, the total content of the dye does not exceed 0.001% by weight with respect to the weight of the composition if the mixing of the compositions (A) and (B) is carried out. Specifically, at such a content, only the composition derived from the mixture of (A) and (B) will probably be dyed, i.e. no dyeing effect will be observed on the keratin fibers.</p><p> Preferentially, if the method of the invention is merely a method for decolorizing keratin fibers, the composition (A) does not contain an oxidation base, a color former or a direct dye.</p><p> According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the method is a method of dyeing keratin fibers using a mixture of the compositions (A) and (B) as defined above.</p><p> If the method according to the invention is a dyeing method, it uses at least one dye, more specifically a direct dye or oxidative dye precursor as defined below. If it uses a direct dye, the total content of the direct dye will be greater than 0.001% by weight based on the weight of the composition if the mixing of the compositions (A) and (B) has been carried out.</p><p> Preferentially, the composition (A) contains an oxidation base, a color former and / or a direct dye.</p><p> The composition obtained from the mixture of (A) and (B) according to the present invention is then left as it is, usually for 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 5 minutes to 30 minutes.</p><p> The temperature between the methods is still between room temperature (15-25 ° C) and 80 ° C, preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C.</p><p> After treatment, the human keratin fibers are optionally washed with water, optionally washed with shampoo, then rinsed with water and then dried or air dried.</p>

I-ingredient (i)-Oil: The composition obtained from the mixture of compositions (A) and (B) was first shown to contain fatty substances; the latter are oils (i), solid fatty alcohols (ii), solid fat esters (iii). , And optionally, one or more additional fatty substances other than the first three listed.

The composition (A) is a fatty substance, whether they are one or more oils (i), solid fatty alcohols (ii), solid fatty esters (iii), additional fatty substances, or mixtures thereof. It is also pointed out that the composition (B) can also contain the same substance.

Therefore, the composition (A) contains at least 30% by weight of oil, preferably at least 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition (A).

The term "oil" means a "fat substance" that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The term "fat substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at normal temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (less than 5%, preferably 1%, more preferably 0.1%). Solubility). They have at least one hydrocarbon-based chain in their structure containing an array of at least 6 carbon atoms or at least 2 siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid vaseline or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. .. The fatty material of the present invention is neither polyoxyalkyleneized nor polyglycerolified.

In detail, oil is C₆~ C₁₆Lower alkanes; non-silicone oils of animal origin; glycerides of plant or synthetic origin; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin with more than 16 carbon atoms; fluorooils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fats Select from esters; non-chloride liquid fatty acids; silicone oils; or mixtures thereof.

The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil that does not contain a silicon atom (Si), and the term "silicone oil" means an oil that contains at least one silicon atom.

For lower alkanes, these alkanes contain 6 to 16 carbon atoms, are linear or branched, and are optionally cyclic. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffin, such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

An example of a non-silicone oil of animal origin that can be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.

Glycetes of plant or synthetic origin, which may be mentioned, include liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanic acid or octanoic acid triglycerides, or, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean. Oils, spinal oils, grape seed oils, sesame seed oils, hazelnut oils, apricot oils, macadamiya oils, arara oils, castor oils, avocado oils, capric acid / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois , Or sold by Dynamit Nobel under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818, including jojoba oil and shea butter oil.

For minerals containing more than 16 carbon atoms or linear or branched hydrocarbons of synthetic origin, volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petrolatum, liquid petrolatum, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, eg Parleam® can be mentioned in particular.

Fluorooil is perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; sold by BNFL Fluorochemicals under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3; Perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane sold by 3M under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060®, or sold by Atochem under the name Foralkyl®. Bromoperfluorooctanoic; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; can be specifically selected from perfluoromorpholin derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholin sold by 3M under the name PF 5052®.

Fatty alcohols that differ from liquid and thus solid fatty alcohols (i) suitable for use in the present invention are, more specifically, unsaturated or branched alcohols containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Is selected from. Examples that can be mentioned include 2-octyldodecane-1-ol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol.

Fatty acids that can be used in the context of the present invention are, more specifically, from unsaturated or branched carboxylic acids containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially 9 to 30 carbon atoms. Be selected. They are advantageously selected from oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

For esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, which differ from solid esters (ii) and the aforementioned glycerides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cs.₁~ C₂₆Aliphatic monoacid or polyacid esters, and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁~ C₂₆Esters of aliphatic monohydric alcohols or polyhydric alcohols can be specifically mentioned, and the total carbon number of the ester is 10 or more.

Preferably, due to the ester of the monohydric alcohol, at least one of the alcohols and acids from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristate, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isosetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and neopentanoic acid. Isostearyl can be mentioned.

C₄~ C₂₂Dicarboxylic acid or tricarboxylic acid and C₁~ C₂₂Alcohol esters, as well as mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C₄~ C₂₆Esters of non-sugar di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.

In particular, diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentamonolysinolate Erislithyl; pentaerythricyl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetraporargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl ercapate; tricitrate Isopropyl; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactic acid; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and distearic acid Polyethylene glycol can be mentioned.

Among the esters listed above, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristate, such as isopropyl myristate, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyl. Dodecyl, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate are preferred.

The composition is C as a liquid fatty ester.₆~ C₃₀Fatty acids, preferably C₁₂~ C₂₂Fatty acid sugar esters and diesters can be further included. The term "sugar" is recalled to mean an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without an aldehyde or ketone functional group, containing at least four carbon atoms. .. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that can be mentioned include saccharose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives such as methyl glucose. included.

Fatty acid sugar esters include the above sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cs.₆~ C₃₀, Preferably C₁₂~ C₂₂It can be specifically selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can contain one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Esters from this variant can also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters include, for example, oleic acid ester, lauric acid ester, palmitic acid ester, myristic acid ester, behenic acid ester, coconut fatty acid ester, stearic acid ester, linoleic acid ester, linolenic acid ester, capric acid ester and arachidonic acid ester. Or a mixture thereof, for example, in particular oleopalmitic acid ester, oleostearic acid ester or palmitostearic acid mixed ester can be selected.

More specifically, monoesters and diesters, especially mono- or dioleic acid esters of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, stearic acid esters, bechenic acid esters, oleopalmitic acid esters, linoleic acid esters, linolenic acid esters or oleostearic acid esters. Used.

An example that can be mentioned is a methylglucose dioleate product sold by Amerchol under the name Glucate® DO.

Among the sugar esters, pentaerythritol ester, preferably pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, and caprylic acid and hexaester capric acid can also be used as a mixture with dipentaerythritol.

The term "liquid silicone" is used at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; ie 1.013 x 10).⁵In Pa), it means an organopolysiloxane that is a liquid.

Preferably, the silicone is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

These silicones may be organically modified. Organically modified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are previously defined liquid silicones that contain one or more organic functional groups attached through hydrocarbon-based groups in their structure.

Organopolysiloxane is defined in more detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

If they are volatile, more specifically silicones are selected from those with boiling points between 60 ° C and 260 ° C, and even more specifically, (i) Selected from cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxanes sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 from Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 from Rhodia, and Volatile Silicone® from Union Carbide. ) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name 7158 or under the name Silbione® 70045 V5 from Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 from Momentive Performance Materials, and their It is a mixture.

Formulas such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide:

<chemistry num="1"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0001.tif" /></chemistry>

Dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type cyclopolymers can also be mentioned.

A mixture of cyclic polydialkylsiloxane and organosilicon compounds, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis (2,2). , 2', 2', 3,3'-Hexatrimethyl-silyloxy) Mix with neopentane; (ii) Containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, 5 × 10 at 25 ° C^-6m²Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with viscosities of / s or less can also be mentioned. An example is the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the name SH 200, especially by Toray Silicone. Silicones in this category are also described in an article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd &amp; Byers: Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. Silicone viscosities are measured at 25 ° C according to ASTM Standard 445 Appendix C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxane can also be used.

More specifically, these non-volatile silicones are selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes containing a trimethylsilyl terminal group can be mainly mentioned.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products can be mentioned without limitation: --Silbione® or Mirasil® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series sold by Rhodia, such as oil 70 047 V 500 000; --Mirasil® series oil sold by Rhodia; --Dow Corning 200 Series Oils, eg 60 000mm²DC200 with a viscosity of / s; --General Electric's Viscasil® oil, and General Electric's SF series (SF 96, SF 18) specific oils.

Polydimethylsiloxane containing a dimethylsilanol end group known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as Rhodia's 48 series oils, can also be mentioned.

Silicones containing aryl groups include polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that can be given include products sold under the following names: Rhodia's 70 641 Series Silbione® Oil; Rhodia's Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils; Dow Corning Oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Solution; -Bayer's PK series silicones, such as PK20 products; -Specific oils from General Electric's SF series, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Organically modified liquid silicones can contain polyethylene oxy and / or polypropylene oxy groups in particular. Thus, silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and Union Carbide oils Silwet® L722 and L77 can be mentioned.

According to one preferred variant, the oil is C₆~ C₁₆Lower alkanes; glycerides of plant or synthetic origin; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; or mixtures thereof Will be done.

Even more preferentially, oil is C₆~ C₁₆Lower alkanes; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms; liquid fatty alcohols; or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oil is selected from liquid petrolatum, polydecene, octyldodecanol and isostearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

In ready-to-use compositions resulting from a mixture of compositions (A) and (B), the amount of oil can account for 7.5% to 60% of the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the ready-to-use composition resulting from the mixing of the compositions (A) and (B) comprises at least 25% oil.

The composition (B) can contain at least one oil. If it contains oil, its total content may be in the range of 0.5% to 40% by weight of composition (B).

(ii) Solid fatty alcohol: The composition (A) of the method of the invention comprises at least one "fatty alcohol" that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25 ° C; 1 atmosphere = 760 mmHg). The term "fatty alcohol" means a saturated or unsaturated long-chain fatty alcohol containing 6 to 34 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group OH. It should also be noted that fatty alcohols are neither mono- or polyoxyalkyleneed (particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene-ized) nor mono- or polyglycerolized.

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol has an R-OH structure, where R is a linear alkyl group containing 12 to 34 carbon atoms.

Fatal alcohols that are solid at room temperature and are suitable for use in the present invention include, more specifically, lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol), myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol), stearyl. Alcohol (1-octadecanol), behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (1-hexacosanol) 1-Octacosanol) and myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol) and mixtures thereof are selected.

According to one particular mode of the invention, solid fatty alcohols with an R-OH structure are such that the R defined above contains 12 to 30, more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Is.

More specifically, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

Preferably, the content of the fatty alcohol that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure in the composition (A) according to the present invention is between 0.2% by weight and 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition (A). It is preferably 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more particularly 1% to 10% by weight.

It should also be noted that the composition (B) can contain one or more solid fatty alcohols. If it contains one or more solid fatty alcohols, its content is 0.2% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of composition (B). More specifically, it may be in the range of 1% to 10% by weight.

Preferably, the content of the fatty alcohol, which is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in the ready-to-use composition (ie, the mixture obtained from the compositions (A) and (B)) is the composition (A). And (B), it is between 0.2% by weight and 20% by weight, preferably 0.5% by weight and 15% by weight, and more specifically, 1% by weight and 10% by weight.

(iii) Solid Fat Ester: As previously indicated, the composition (A) according to the invention also comprises at least one fatty ester that is solid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipester" means an ester whose structure contains at least one fatty chain of at least 6 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty ester used in the compositions of the present invention is preferably a saturated fatty ester, particularly an ester of a saturated carboxylic acid containing at least 10 carbon atoms and an ester of a saturated fatty monohydric alcohol containing at least 10 carbon atoms. is there. The saturated acid or monohydric alcohol may be linear or branched. Saturated carboxylic acids preferably contain 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms. They may be optionally hydroxylated. Saturated fatty monohydric alcohols preferably contain 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more specifically 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the fatty ester is myristyl myristate, cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate and behenyl behenate, and theirs. Selected from the mixture.

Advantageously, the content of the solid ester (ii) is 0.01% to 20% by weight, more particularly 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition (A). In the range of 5% by weight.

It should also be noted that the composition (B) can contain one or more solid esters. If it contains one or more solid esters, its content is 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, and even more, based on the total weight of composition (B). Specifically, it may be in the range of 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight.

Preferably, the content of the fatty alcohol, which is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in the ready-to-use composition (ie, the mixture obtained from the compositions (A) and (B)) is the composition (A). And (B) are between 0.01% by weight and 20% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, more specifically between 0.5% by weight and 5% by weight.

(iv) -Surfactant: The dyeing and / or bleaching method uses one or more surfactants.

In particular, the surfactant is selected from anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants, preferably nonionic surfactants.

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant that contains only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably -C (O) OH, -C (O) O.^-, -SO₃H, -S (O)₂O^-, -OS (O)₂OH, -OS (O)₂O^-, -P (O) OH₂, -P (O)₂O^-, -P (O) O₂^-, -P (OH)₂, = P (O) OH, -P (OH) O^-, = P (O) O^-, = POH, = PO^-Selected from the groups of, the anion moiety comprises a cationic counterion, such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal or ammonium.

Examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amide ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyethers sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl amides. Sulfonate, alkylaryl sulfonate, α-olefin sulfonate, paraffin sulfonate, alkyl sulfosuccinate, alkyl ether sulfosuccinate, alkylamide sulfosuccinate, alkylsulfoacetate, acylsarcosineate, acylglutamate, alkylsulfosuccinate, acylize Thionate, and N-acyl taurate, polyglycoside polycarboxylic acid and alkyl monoester salts, acyllactylate, D-galactosidouronic acid salt, alkyl ether carboxylic acid salt, alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salt, alkyl amide Salts of ether carboxylic acids; as well as the corresponding non-chloride forms of all these compounds can be mentioned; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds contain 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group is phenyl. Represents a group.

These compounds can be oxyethyleneylated, and as a result can preferably contain 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

Polyglycoside-C of polycarboxylic acid₆~ C₂₄The salt of alkyl monoester is C₆~ C₂₄Alkyl polyglycoside-citrate, C₆~ C₂₄Alkyl polyglycoside-tartrate and C₆~ C₂₄You can choose from alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

If the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts, they are alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, preferably alkaline earths such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, especially amino alcohol salts, or magnesium salts. You can choose from metal salts.

Examples of aminoalcohol salts that can be specifically mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, Includes 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salt and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salt.

Alkaline metals or alkaline earth metal salts, especially sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.

Among the anionic surfactants described above, preferably (C) containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metals, ammonium, amino alcohols and alkaline earth metal salts.₆~ C₂₄) Alkyl sulphate, (C₆~ C₂₄) Alkylation ether sulfates or mixtures of these compounds are utilized.

(C), containing 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metals, ammonium, amino alcohols and alkaline earth metal salts.₁₂~ C₂₀) Alkyl sulphate, (C₁₂~ C₂₀) Alkyl ether sulfate, or a mixture of these compounds, is particularly preferred. Better yet, sodium lauryl ether sulphate containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide is utilized.

The preferably non-silicone amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that can be used in the present invention may be, in particular, optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives thereof. In the derivative, the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and the amine derivative is an at least one anionic group such as carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid. Or it contains a phosphonic acid group. (C₈~ C₂₀) Alkyl betaine, sulfobetaine, (C₈~ C₂₀) Alkylamide (C₃~ C₈) Alkyl betaine and (C₈~ C₂₀) Alkylamide (C₆~ C₈) Alkyl sulfobetaine can be specifically mentioned.

Among the optional quaternary secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used as described above, compounds of structure (A1) and (A2) can also be mentioned: R_a-C (O) -NH-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺(R_{b b}) (R_c)-CH₂C (O) O^-,M⁺ (A1) In equation (A1): R_aIs preferably the acid R present in hydrolyzed coconut oil._aC derived from COOH₁₀~ C₃₀Represents an alkyl or alkenyl group, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecylic group; R_{b b}Represents a β-hydroxyethyl group; R_cRepresents a carboxymethyl group; M⁺Represents an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as a cationic counterion derived from sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine. R_a-C (O) -NH-CH₂-CH₂-N (B) (B') (A2) In equation (A2): B is the base-CH₂-CH₂-Represents O-X'; B'is the base- (CH₂)_zRepresents Y'and has z = 1 or 2; X'is the base-CH₂-C (O) OH, -CH₂-C (O) OZ', -CH₂-CH₂-C (O) OH, -CH₂-CH₂-Represents C (O) OZ'or hydrogen atom; Y'is the group -C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ', -CH₂-CH (OH) -SO₃H or group-CH₂-CH (OH) -SO₃-Represents Z'; Z'represents an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as a cationic counterion derived from sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; R_a'Is acidic R, preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed flaxseed oil_a'-C (O) OH C₁₀~ C₃₀Alkyl or alkenyl groups, especially C₁₇Alkyl group and its isotype, or unsaturated C₁₇Represents a group.

These compounds include disodium cocoamphoniacetate, disodium lauroamphodioacetate, disodium caprilamphodiacetic acid, disodium capryloanphodineacetic acid, disodium cocoamphonipropionate, disodium lauroamphonipropionate, caprylampho. The names of disodium dipropionate, disodium capryloamphonipropionate, lauroamphonipropionic acid and cocoamphonipropionic acid are classified in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th Edition, 1993.

An example is cocoamphodiacetic acid sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, preferably (C₈~ C₂₀) Alkyl betaine, eg cocoyl betaine, and (C₈~ C₂₀) Alkylamide (C₃~ C₈) Alkyl betaine, eg cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof are utilized. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is selected from cocamidopropyl betaine and cocoyl betaine.

The cationic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are, for example, optionally polyoxyalkyleneized salts of primary, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. including.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that can be specifically mentioned include: --Corresponding to the following general formula (I):

<chemistry num="2"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0002.tif" /></chemistry>

In equation (I), R may be the same or different₈From R₁₁Group represents a linear or branched aliphatic or aromatic group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as aryl or alkylaryl, R.₈From R₁₁At least one of the groups contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Aliphatic groups can include heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens in particular.

Aliphatic groups are, for example, C₁~ C₃₀Alkyl, C₁~ C₃₀Alkoxy, polyoxy (C₂~ C₆) Alkylene, C₁~ C₃₀Alkylamide, (C₁₂~ C₂₂) Alkylamide (C₂~ C₆) Alkyl, (C₁₂~ C₂₂) Alkyl acetic acid, C₁~ C₃₀Selected from hydroxyalkyl, X^-Halides, phosphoric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, (C₁~ C₄) Alkyl sulfuric acid and (C₁~ C₄) Alkyl-or (C₁~ C₄) An anionic counterion selected from each ion of alkylaryl sulfonic acid.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I), tetraalkylammonium chloride, such as dialkyldimethylammonium chloride or alkyltrimethylammonium containing about 12 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, especially behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, Distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride are first preferred, otherwise distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium metosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium metosulfate or dipalmitoyl ethylhydroxyethylammonium metosulfate or di. Stearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium metosulfate, or finally, palmitylamide propyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidepropyldimethyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold by Van Dyk under the name Ceraphyl® 70. preferable; -Quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, eg those of formula (II) below:

<chemistry num="3"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0003.tif" /></chemistry>

In equation (II), R₁₂Represents an alkyl or alkenyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as a fatty acid derivative of tallow, R₁₃Is a hydrogen atom, C₁~ C₄Represents an alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R₁₄Is C₁~ C₄Represents an alkyl group, R₁₅Is a hydrogen atom or C₁~ C₄Represents an alkyl group, X^-Halides, phosphoric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, (C₁~ C₄) Alkyl sulfuric acid and (C₁~ C₄) Alkyl-or (C₁~ C₄) Represents an anion counterion selected from each ion of alkylaryl sulfonic acid. R₁₂And R₁₃Represents a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups, preferably containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as tallow fatty acid derivatives.₁₄Represents a methyl group, R₁₅Represents a hydrogen atom. Such products are sold, for example, by Rewo under the name Rewoquat® W 75; -Quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, especially those of formula (IV) below:

<chemistry num="4"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0004.tif" /></chemistry>

In equation (III), R₁₆Represents an alkyl group containing approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated, and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms; R₁₇Is hydrogen, an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a group-(CH₂)₃-N⁺(R_16a) (R_17a) (R_18a) Is selected; may be the same or different R_16a, R_17a, R_18a, R₁₈, R₁₉, R₂₀And R₂₁Is selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, X^-Halides, acetic acid, phosphoric acid, nitric acid, (C₁~ C₄) Alkyl sulfuric acid and (C₁~ C₄) Alkyl-or (C₁~ C₄) Alkylaryl sulfonic acid, especially an anion selected from the group of methyl and ethyl sulfuric acid ions. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) sold by Finetex, and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) sold by Finetex; --A quaternary ammonium salt containing one or more ester functional groups, such as that of formula (IV) below:

<chemistry num="5"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0005.tif" /></chemistry>

In equation (IV): R₂₂Is C₁~ C₆Alkyl and C₁~ C₆Selected from hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R₂₃Is selected from: -Group

<chemistry num="6"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0006.tif" /></chemistry>

-Linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁~ C₂₂Hydrocarbon-based group R₂₇, -Hydrogen atom; R₂₅Is selected from: -Group

<chemistry num="7"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0007.tif" /></chemistry>

-Linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁~ C₆Hydrocarbon-based group R₂₉, -Hydrogen atom; R that may be the same or different₂₄, R₂₆And R₂₈Is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₇~ C₂₁Selected from hydrocarbon-based groups; r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are integers from 2 to 6; r1 and t1 which may be the same or different are equal to 0 or 1, r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t, · Y is an integer from 1 to 10; X and z, which may be the same or different, are integers from 0 to 10; X^-Represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion; However, the total x + y + z is from 1 to 15, and if x is 0, R₂₃Is R₂₇Represents, and R if z is 0₂₅Is R₂₉Represents.

Alkyl group R₂₂May be linear or branched, and more specifically linear.

Preferably R₂₂Represents a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, more specifically a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the total x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

R₂₃Is a hydrocarbon-based group R₂₇If, it may be long and may contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be short and may contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

R₂₅Is a hydrocarbon-based group R₂₉If, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R which may be the same or different₂₄, R₂₆And R₂₈Is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₁~ C₂₁From hydrocarbon-based groups, more specifically linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₁~ C₂₁Selected from alkyl or alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be the same or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and more particularly equal to 2.

Anionic counterion X^-Is preferably a halide, preferably for example chloride, bromide or iodide; (C₁~ C₄) Alkylation sulfuric acid or (C₁~ C₄) Alkyl-or (C₁~ C₄) Each ion of alkylaryl sulfonic acid. However, anions derived from methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, organic acids, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with ammonium containing an ester functional group can be utilized.

Anionic counterion X^-Is, more specifically, chloride, methylsulfate, and / or ethylsulfate ions.

More specifically, in the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salt of formula (IV) is utilized, where: --R₂₂Represents a methyl or ethyl group --x and y are equal to 1 --z is equal to 0 or 1 --r, s and t are equal to 2 --R₂₃Is selected from: Basic

<chemistry num="8"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0008.tif" /></chemistry>

Methyl, ethyl or C₁₄~ C₂₂Hydrocarbon-based groups, Hydrogen atom, --R₂₅Is selected from: Basic

<chemistry num="9"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0009.tif" /></chemistry>

Hydrogen atom, R that may be the same or different₂₄, R₂₆And R₂₈Is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃~ C₁₇From hydrocarbon-based groups, more specifically linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃~ C₁₇Selected from alkyl and alkenyl groups. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

Among the compounds of formula (IV), examples that can be mentioned include diacyloxy-ethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethyl. Includes salts of hydroxyethyldimethylammonium, especially chloride or methyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more specifically obtained from vegetable oils such as palm oil or sunflower oil. If the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct transesterification of optionally oxyalkyleneized triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine with a fatty acid or fatty acid mixture of plant or animal origin. Alternatively, it is obtained by a transesterification reaction of the methyl ester. After this esterification, an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl p-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or Quartization with glycerol chlorohydrin continues.

Such compounds are, for example, under the name Dehyquart® from Henkel, Stepanquat® from Stepan, Noxamium® from Ceca, or Rewoquat® from Rewo-Witco. Trademark) Sold under the name WE 18.

The composition according to the invention can contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di- and triesters containing a majority weight of the diester salt.

It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group as described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

Behenoyl hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride, sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131, can be used.

Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group contains two ester functional groups.

Among the cationic surfactants that can be present in the compositions according to the invention, more particularly cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxy-ethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, more details. It is preferable to select behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium metosulfate and mixtures thereof.

Examples of nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions used in the present invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by MR Porter, published by Blackie &amp; Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. ing. They are especially alcohols, α-diols and (C₁~ C₂₀) Selected from alkylphenols, these compounds are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolized, having at least one fat chain containing, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, ethylene oxide and / or propylene. The number of oxide groups is probably especially 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups is probably especially 2 to 30.

Copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, fatty acid esters oxyethyleneated with optional sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkyleneized fatty acid esters, alkyl polyglycosides optionally oxyalkyleneed, alkyl glucoside esters, N- Derivatives of alkylglucamine and N-acylmethylglucamine, aldobionamide and amine oxide can also be mentioned.

More specifically, the nonionic surfactant is selected from monooxyalkyleneized or polyoxyalkyleneized, monoglycerolized or polyglycerolized nonionic surfactants. More specifically, the oxyalkylene unit is oxyethylene or oxypropylene unit, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene unit.

Examples of oxyalkyleneized nonionic surfactants that can be mentioned include: Oxyalkyleneization (C₈~ C₂₄) Alkylphenol; Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkyleneized C₈~ C₃₀alcohol, Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkyleneized C₈~ C₃₀Amide, Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₈~ C₃₀Acid and polyethylene glycol esters; Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₈~ C₃₀Polyoxyethylene ester of acid and sorbitol; Saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylene vegetable oil; Condensations of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, especially alone or as a mixture. -Oxyethyleneated and / or oxypropyleneated silicone.

Surfactants contain a molar number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50, preferably between 2 and 30. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant does not contain any oxypropylene units.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkyleneized nonionic surfactant comprises oxyethyleneylated C containing 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide.₈~ C₃₀Alcohol; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₈~ C₃₀It is selected from polyoxyethyleneated esters of sorbitol containing acids and 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide.

As an example of a monoglycerolized or polyglycerolized nonionic surfactant, preferably monoglycerolized or polyglycerolized C₈~ C₄₀Alcohol is used.

Specifically, monoglycerol or polyglycerol C₈~ C₄₀Alcohol has the following formula: R₂₉O- [CH₂-CH (CH)₂OH) -O]_m-H Corresponding to, in the formula, R₂₉Is a linear or branched C₈~ C₄₀, Preferably C₈~ C₃₀Represents an alkyl or alkenyl group of, and m represents a number from 1 to 30, preferably 1 to 10.

Examples of suitable compounds in the context of the present invention are lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol glycerol, and oleyl containing 4 mol glycerol. Alcohol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, containing 6 mol of glycerol Cetearyl alcohol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 mol glycerol can be mentioned.

Alcohols can represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, that is, in commercial products, several species of polyglycerolized fatty alcohols can coexist in the form of a mixture. Means.

Among the monoglycerolized or polyglycerolated alcohols, more specifically, C containing 1 mol of glycerol.₈/ C₁₀C containing alcohol, 1 mol of glycerol₁₀/ C₁₂C containing alcohol and 1.5 moles of glycerol₁₂It is preferable to use alcohol.

Preferably, the surfactant used in the methods of the invention is a mono or polyoxyalkyleneized nonionic surfactant, particularly comprising oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or combinations thereof, more specifically oxyethylene units. ..

In composition (A) and ready-to-use compositions, the amount of surfactant in the composition is preferably 0.1% to 30% by weight, better, based on the total weight of the composition of interest. It is in the range of 0.2% by weight to 20% by weight.

The composition (B) may or may not contain at least one surfactant. If it contains surfactants, their total content ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better from 0.2% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition (B). It's fine inside.

(v)-Basicizing agent: The method according to the invention also uses one or more basicizing agents.

The basicizing agent may be inorganic, organic or hybrid.

Inorganic basicizing agents are preferably aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium carbonate or potassium carbonate, and sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or theirs. Selected from mixtures.

Organic basicizing agents preferably have a pK of less than 12, preferably less than 10, and more preferably less than 6 at 25 ° C._{b b}It is selected from organic amines having. It corresponds to the highest basic functional group pK_{b b}It should be noted that. In addition, organic amines do not contain any alkyl or alkenyl fatty chains containing more than 10 carbon atoms.

The organic basicizing agent is selected, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethyleneated and / or oxypropyleneed ethylenediamines, amino acids, and compounds of formula (V) below:

<chemistry num="10"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0010.tif" /></chemistry>

In formula (V), W is optionally one or more hydroxyl groups or C.₁~ C₆C substituted with an alkyl group and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, such as O or NRu₁~ C₆It is a divalent alkylene group; Rx, Ry, Rz, Rt and Ru, which may be the same or different, are hydrogen atoms or C.₁~ C₆Alkyl or C₁~ C₆Hydroxyalkyl or C₁~ C₆Represents an aminoalkyl group.

Examples of amines of formula (V) that can be mentioned include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.

The term "alkanolamine" refers to one or more linear or branched Cs having a primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functional group and one or more hydroxyl groups.₁~ C₈It means an organic amine containing an alkyl group.

To practice the present invention, one to three identical or different Cs₁~ C₄Organic amines selected from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines, including hydroxyalkyl groups, are particularly suitable.

Among these compounds are monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanol. List amines, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethylamino) methane. Can be done.

More specifically, the amino acids that can be used are of natural or synthetic origin in their L, D or racemic form, and more particularly are selected from carboxylic acids, sulfonic acids, phosphonic acids or phosphate functional groups. Contains at least one acid functional group. Amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.

Amino acids that can be used in the present invention include aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulin, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine. , Taurine, methionine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine can be mentioned in particular.

Advantageously, the amino acid is a basic amino acid containing an additional amine functional group optionally included in the ring or ureido functional group.

Such basic amino acids are preferably selected from those corresponding to formula (VI) below:

<chemistry num="11"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0011.tif" /></chemistry>

In equation (VI), R represents a group selected from:

<chemistry num="12"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0012.tif" /></chemistry>

-(CH₂)₃NH₂;-(CH₂)₂NH₂;-(CH₂)₂NHCONH₂;and

<chemistry num="13"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0013.tif" /></chemistry>

The compounds corresponding to formula (VI) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.

The organic amine may be selected from heterocyclic organic amines. In addition to histidine already pointed out as an amino acid, pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole can be specifically mentioned.

The organic amine may be selected from amino acid dipeptides. Specific examples of amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present invention include carnosine, anserine and valene.

The organic amine may be selected from compounds containing a guanidine functional group. As this kind of amine that can be used in the present invention, in addition to arginine already pointed out as an amino acid, creatine, creatine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycosiamine, metformin, agmatine, N- Amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino (imino) methyl] amino) ethane-1-sulfonic acid can be specifically mentioned.

Preferably, the organic amine present in the composition (A) of the present invention is an alkanolamine. Even more preferentially, the basicizing agent is monoethanolamine (MEA).

Hybrid compounds that can be mentioned include salts of the aforementioned amines with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid.

Guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be particularly used.

Advantageously, the compositions (A) and (B) according to the invention and the ready-to-use compositions are 0.01% to 30% by weight based on the weight of the composition obtained from the mixture of (A) and (B). The content of the basicizing agent is in the range of%, preferably 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight.

Preferably, the composition (B) does not contain any basicizing agent.

According to one particular embodiment, the method according to the invention preferably does not use aqueous ammonia or a salt thereof as the basicizing agent. According to this particular embodiment, however, if it is used in this method, its content is 0.03% by weight (NH) relative to the weight of the composition obtained from the mixture of (A) and (B).₃It does not exceed (represented by), preferably 0.01% by weight. Preferably, if the composition (A) comprises aqueous ammonia or a salt thereof, then the amount of basicizing agent is aqueous ammonia (NH).₃Greater than that (represented by).

(vi)-Dye: The method according to the invention can optionally include one or more dyes selected from a) oxidation dyes and b) direct dyes, or mixtures of a) and b) detailed below.

When the method according to the invention is aimed at dyeing keratin fibers, the composition (A) comprises one or more dyes, preferably a) at least one oxidative dye.

Oxidation dyes are generally selected from one or more oxidation bases in optional combination with one or more color formers.

As an example, the oxidation base is selected from para-phenylenediamine, bis (phenyl) alkylenediamine, para-aminophenol, ortho-aminophenol and heterocyclic bases, and their addition salts.

Among the paraphenylenediamines that can be mentioned are, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para. -Phenylenideamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N, N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis (β) -Hydroxyethyl) Amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylene Diamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-Ethyl-N- (β-Hydroxyethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, N- (β, γ-dihydroxypropyl) -para-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -para-phenylenediamine, N -Phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N- (β-methoxyethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 4 -Aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1- (4'-aminophenyl) pyrrolidine, and their addition salts with acid included.

Among the above-mentioned para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para- Phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -para- Particularly preferred are phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts with acids.

Among the bis (phenyl) alkylenediamines that can be mentioned are, for example, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diaminopropanol, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (β-Hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (ethyl)- Includes N, N'-bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts.

Among the paraaminophenols that can be mentioned are, for example, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-. Hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-( Includes β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and their addition salts with acids.

Among the orthoaminophenols that can be mentioned are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamide-2-aminophenol and their addition salts. included.

Among the heterocyclic bases that can be mentioned are, for example, pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.

Among the pyridine derivatives that can be mentioned are, for example, the compounds described in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-amino. Includes pyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and their addition salts.

Other pyridine oxidation bases that are beneficial in the present invention are, for example, patent application FR 2 801 3-Aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine oxidation base or an addition salt thereof, as described in 308. Examples that can be mentioned are pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo [1]. , 5-a] pyrido-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo) [1,5-a] pyrido-7-yl) methanol, 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-5-yl) ethanol, 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido -7-yl) Ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-2-yl) methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo [ 1,5-a] Pyridine, Pyrazoro [1,5-a] Pyridine-3,7-Diamine, 7-Morphorin-4-ylpyrazolo [1,5-a] Pyrido-3-ylamine, Pyrazoro [1,5- a] Pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-5-yl) (2-Hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrido-7-yl) (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] Pyridine-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] Pyridine-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] Pyridine-6-ol and 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] Pyridine- Includes 7-ol and its additional salts.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives that can be mentioned are, for example, the compounds described in patent DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, eg, 2,4,5, 6-Tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5 , 6-Triaminopyrimidines, and their addition salts, and their tautomeric forms when tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Among the pyrazole derivatives that can be mentioned are patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43. Compounds described in 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4'-Chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenyl Pyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydradinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) -3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methyl Pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1-Methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5- (2'-aminoethyl) amino -1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3, Includes 5-diamino-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methylpyrazole, and its additional salts. 4,5-Diamino-1- (β-methoxyethyl) pyrazole can also be used.

Preferably, 4,5-diaminopyrazole is used, and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or a salt thereof.

Further examples of pyrazole derivatives include diamino-N, N-dihydro-pyrazolopyrazolone, especially patent application FR-A-2 886. 136 include, for example, the following compounds and their addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazole-1-one, 2 -Amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazole-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H -Pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazole-1-one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) -6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazole-1 -On, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazole-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazole-3-one, 4 , 5-Diamino-1,2-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,2-dihydropyrazole-3-one, 2-amino-3- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-6,7-dihydro-1H , 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazole-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazole-1-one, 2,3-Diamino-5,6,7,8-Tetrahydro-1H, 6H-pyridadino [1,2-a] pyrazole-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5- (pyrrolidin-1) -Il) -1,2-dihydropyrazole-3-one, 4-amino-5- (3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazole-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazole-1-one.

2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazole-1-one and / or salts thereof are preferably used.

As heterocyclic bases, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazole-1 -On and / or its salt is used preferentially.

The composition (A) according to the present invention may optionally contain one or more color formers that are advantageously selected from those conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibers.

Among these color formers, meta-phenylenediamine, meta-aminophenol, meta-diphenol, naphthalene-based color formers and heterocyclic color formers, and their addition salts can be mentioned in particular.

For example, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyloxy) -benzene, 2 -Amino-4- (β-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-ureidaniline, 3-ureido-1 -Dimethylamino-benzene, sesamole, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy -N-Methylindol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4- Methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis (β-hydroxy-ethylamino) toluene, 6-hydroxyindolin, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methyl-pyrazole-5-one, 1-Phenyl-3-methylpyrazole-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-b] -1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl [3,2-c] -1 , 2,4-Triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo [1,5-a] benzoimidazole, their addition salts with acids, and mixtures thereof.

In general, the oxidation-based and color former addition salts that can be used in the context of the present invention are hydrochloride, hydrobromide, sulfate, citrate, succinate, tartrate, lactate, tosylic acid. It is specifically selected from salts, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and addition salts with acids such as acetates.

The oxidation base is advantageously 0.001% to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition (A) and the ready-to-use composition. Each occupies%.

When they are present, the color former is advantageously 0.001% to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably relative to the total weight of the composition (A) and the ready-to-use composition. Each occupies 0.005% to 5% by weight.

The composition (A) according to the invention is selected from anionic and nonionic species, preferably cationic or nonionic species, as the sole dye or in addition to the oxidative dye, b) one or more. Synthetic or natural direct dyes can optionally be included.

Examples of suitable direct dyes, either alone or as a mixture, are azo direct dyes; (poly) methine dyes such as cyanine, hemicyanin and styryl; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro (hetero) aryl dyes. Includes tri (hetero) arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes, and natural direct dyes.

Among the natural substantive dyes that can be used according to the present invention are Lawson, Juglone, Alizarin, Purpurin, Carminic Acid, Kermesic Acid, Purprogalin, Protocatecardecide, Indigo, Isatin, Curcumin, Spinulosin, Apigenidin and Orcein. it can. Extracts or leachates containing these natural dyes, especially henna-based poultices or extracts, can also be used.

If they are present, the direct dyes more specifically account for 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the method is a dyeing method and the composition (A) and similarly ready-to-use composition are at least one dye and preferably at least one oxidation dye as defined above. Contains.

(vii) Oxidizing agent: The oxidation composition (B) is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight, preferably more than 10% by weight, and more preferably more than 20% by weight.

The composition (B) can also contain one or more organic solvents selected from those previously described; these solvents, if present, more specifically 1 relative to the weight of the oxidized composition. It accounts for% to 40% by weight, preferably 5% to 30% by weight.

The oxidation composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, examples that can be mentioned include inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, ortholic acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acid.

Usually, when it is aqueous, the pH of the oxidizing composition is less than 7.

Note that the oxidants present in the composition (B) or in the mixture of the compositions (A) and (B) to distinguish them from atmospheric oxygen can also be referred to as "chemical". Should.

Specifically, the composition (B) according to the present invention comprises hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromate or ferricianide, salt peroxide, for example alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, as oxidizing agents. Includes persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, and one or more compounds selected from peracids and their precursors.

Preferably, the oxidant is not selected from the peroxidized salts.

Advantageously, the oxidant is hydrogen peroxide.

Preferably, in an aqueous solution, the oxidizing composition (B) contains hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent, the concentration of which is more particularly 0.1% to 50% by weight, more specifically, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition. Is in the range of 0.5% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably between 1% by weight and 15% by weight.

The compositions (A) and (B) and the ready-to-use compositions can also contain additional ingredients.

Fatty substances other than oils, solid fatty alcohols and solid fatty esters: Additional fatty substances used in the compositions according to the invention are room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10).⁵It may be a non-oily fatty substance in Pa).

The term "non-oil" preferably means a temperature of 25 ° C and 1 s.^-1Means a solid compound or compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at the shear rate of.

More specifically, non-oil fat substances other than solid fat alcohols and solid fat esters are selected from natural waxes, silicone waxes, fatty amides and fatty ethers, which are non-oil and preferably solid.

Natural waxes are sold by carnauba waxes, candelilla waxes, espart waxes, solid paraffins, ozokelites, vegetable waxes such as olive tree waxes, rice waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes or absolute flower waxes such as Bertin (France). It is especially selected from the essential waxes of the kurofusaguri flowers, and animal waxes such as dense wax or modified dense wax (cerabellina).

Solid fat amides that can be mentioned include ceramides. Ceramide analogs, such as ceramides or glycoceramides, that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are natural or synthetic molecules that are known in their own right and can correspond to the general formula (VII) below:

<chemistry num="14"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0014.tif" /></chemistry>

During the ceremony: --R₁Is C₁₄~ C₃₀Represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a fatty acid, which is a hydroxyl group or a saturated or unsaturated C₁₆~ C₃₀It may be replaced with a hydroxyl group at the ω position esterified with fatty acids; --R₂Represents a hydrogen atom or group (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m or sulfogalactosyl, where n is an integer from 1 to 4 and m is an integer from 1 to 8; --R₃Is a saturated or unsaturated C at the α position₁₅~ C₂₆Represents a hydrocarbon-based group, which is one or more Cs₁~ C₁₄May have been substituted with an alkyl group; For these natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R₃Is C₁₅~ C₂₆It is understood that it can also represent an α-hydroxyalkyl group, where the hydroxyl group is C.₁₆~ C₃₀It is optionally esterified with α-hydroxy acids.

Preferred ceramides in the context of the present invention are those described by Downing in Arch. Dermatol., Vol. 123, pp. 13811384, 1987, or in French Patent FR 2 673 179.

A more particularly preferred ceramide according to the present invention is R.₁Is C₁₆~ C₂₂Represents saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from fatty acids; R₂Represents a hydrogen atom, R₃Is saturated linear C₁₅It is a compound representing a group.

Such compounds are, for example: --N-Rinorail dihydrosphingosine, --N-Oleyl dihydrosphingosine, --N-Palmityl dihydrosphingosine, --N-Stearroyl dihydrosphingosine, --N-behenyl dihydrosphingosine, Or a mixture of these compounds.

Even more preferentially, R₁Represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a fatty acid; R₂Represents a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; R₃Is based on -CH = CH- (CH₂)₁₂-CH₃Ceramide representing is used.

Other waxes or wax-like starting materials that can be used according to the present invention are marine waxes, such as those sold under the reference name M82 by Sophim, and polyethylene or polyolefin general waxes, and organopolysiloxanes. Wax or resin.

The organopolysiloxane resin that can be used in accordance with the present invention is a crosslinked siloxane system containing the following units: R₂SiO_2/2, R₃SiO_1/2, RSiO_3/2And SiO_4/2In the formula, R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Of these products, the one with R is C is particularly preferable.₁~ C₄It represents a lower alkyl group, more specifically methyl.

Among these resins, products sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold by General Electric under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 can be mentioned, which have a dimethyl / trimethylsiloxane structure. Silicone.

Also mentioned are trimethyl silicate silicate resins sold by Shin-Etsu, especially under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037.

The non-oil fat ether is selected from dialkyl ethers, especially disetyl ethers and distearyl ethers, alone or as a mixture.

Preferably, the non-oil fatty material other than the solid fatty alcohol and the solid fatty ester is the composition of the composition (A), in the composition (A), in the composition (B), or in a ready-to-use composition. It is present in a content in the range of 0 to 30% by weight based on the weight of the substance (B) or the mixture of (A) and (B).

Other adjuvants: The compositions (A) and / or (B) of the methods of the invention and the ready-to-use compositions are various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing or bleaching hair, such as anionic and cationic. , Nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; air fresheners; dispersants; coatings; preservatives; opacifying agents and thickeners You can also.

The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount between 0.01% by weight and 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, for each of them.

The compositions (A) and / or (B) of the method according to the invention and the ready-to-use compositions are one or more inorganic thickeners selected from pro-organic clays and fumed silica or mixtures thereof. Can also be included.

According to one particular embodiment of the method of the invention, the composition (A) does not contain any clay. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (B) does not contain any clay. Preferentially, the oil-rich direct emulsion obtained by mixing the methods or compositions (A) and (B) of the present invention does not use or contain any clay.

The compositions (A) and / or (B) of the method according to the invention and ready-to-use compositions can also include one or more organic thickeners.

These thickeners include fatty acid amides (coconut monoethanolamide or diethanolamide, oxyethylene carboxylic acid monoethanolamide alkyl ethers), polymer thickeners, such as cellulose-based thickeners (hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl). Cellulose or carboxymethyl cellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), microbial origin gums (xanthan gum, sclerogulcan gum), acrylic acid or acrylamide propanesulfonic acid crosslinked homopolymers and binding polymers (in aqueous media, each other or It can be selected from hydrophilic regions and fatty chain hydrophobic regions (polymers containing alkyl or alkenyl containing at least 10 carbon atoms) capable of reversibly binding to other molecules.

According to one particular embodiment, the organic thickeners are cellulose-based thickeners (hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose or carboxymethyl cellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum). , Sclerogulcan gum), and acrylic acid or acrylamide propanesulfonic acid crosslinked homopolymers, preferably selected from cellulose-based thickeners, especially including hydroxyethyl cellulose.

If they are present, the content of the organic thickener is generally 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight, based on the weight of the compositions (A) and (B) and the ready-to-use composition. To 5% by weight.

The compositions (A) and / or (B) according to the invention and the ready-to-use compositions are media containing at least water and optionally one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents.

Examples of cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which can be mentioned, are linear or branched, preferably saturated monohydric alcohols or diols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohols. , Isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; glycerol; polyol Or polyol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol monomethyl ethers; and in particular C₁~ C₄Diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether are included alone or as a mixture.

If they are present, the solvent should be 1% to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the dye composition, and preferably 5% to 30% by weight based on the total weight of the composition containing them. Generally occupy.

Preferably, the compositions (A) and / or (B) of the methods of the invention and the ready-to-use compositions are 10% to 70%, better 20% to 55% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Contains water with a content in the range of%.

The compositions (A) and / or (B) of the method according to the invention and ready-to-use compositions are in various forms such as in the form of liquids, creams or gels, or other forms suitable for dyeing keratin fibers, especially human hair. It may be in any form.

Advantageously, the compositions (A) and / or (B) of the method according to the invention and the ready-to-use compositions are in the form of gels or creams.

Preferably, the ready-to-use composition resulting from the mixing of the compositions (A) and (B) is in the form of a direct emulsion.

The pH of the composition after mixing the compositions (A) and (B) of the method according to the invention is preferably between 3 and 12, preferably between 5 and 11, preferably between 7 and 11. Between (including both limits).

It may be adjusted to the desired value by an acidifying or basicizing agent commonly used in dyeing keratin fibers, or by using a standard buffer system.

Alkalinizing agents are, for example, those described above.

Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, ortholic acid, carboxylic acids such as tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, or sulfonic acids.

How to prepare an emulsion obtained from a mixture of (A) and (B): The components of the above compositions (A) and (B) and their contents are determined as a function of the features detailed above for the composition obtained from the final mixture of (A) and (B) according to the present invention. Will be done.

It should be noted that the mixture of compositions (A) and (B) is preferably a direct emulsion.

The composition (A) / composition (B) weight ratio in the mixture is preferably in the range of 0.2 to 2, better is 0.3 to 1, and even better is 0.5 to 1.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of (A) and (B) puts the composition (A) and the composition (B) together in a container prior to application to the keratin fibers. Priority is prepared by vigorously mixing them for a few seconds to a few minutes. This mixing can be performed using the multi-compartment device or kit defined below, one of which is dedicated to mixing the compositions (A) and (B), resulting in a uniform emulsion. Can be shaken completely safely in a closed container.

Ready-to-use compositions obtained from a mixture of compositions (A) and (B) preferably have a fatty substance content relative to the total weight of the mixture of compositions (A) and (B). It is such that it is in the range of 25% to 80%, preferably 25% to 65%, and better from 30% to 55%.

II-Composition Another object of the invention is a non-oxidizing composition in the form of a direct emulsion, including: At least 30% by weight oil (i); -At least one fatty alcohol (ii) that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure; At least one fatty ester (iii) that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure; -At least one surfactant (iv); At least one basicizing agent (v) and / or at least one dye (vi) selected from oxidation dyes and direct dyes and mixtures thereof.

It should be noted that when this composition is a non-oxidizing composition, it does not contain any chemical oxidizing agents.

All previously specified with respect to the properties of the various components of compositions (A) and (B) and their respective amounts remain valid here and can be referred to.

II-Multi-compartment device: The present invention also relates to a device containing two or more compartments including: In the first compartment, the previously defined composition (A), and In a separate compartment, the previously defined composition (B).

<p> The following examples serve to illustrate, but are not limited to, the present invention.</p><p> Prepare the following composition (A) in direct emulsion form (amount is on a weight basis, i.e. expressed as g% of the unmodified starting material):</p><p><tables num="1"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0015.tif" /></tables></p><p> The following composition (B) is prepared (amount is expressed on a weight basis, i.e. as g% of the unmodified starting material):</p><p><tables num="2"><img file="JP2014501774A_D0016.tif" /></tables></p><p> The compositions (A) and (B) are mixed in a ratio of 1/1. Mixing is easy to carry out.</p><p> Application style The resulting mixture is then applied to a tuft of natural dark reddish-brown hair (color depth TD = 3) at a ratio of 10 g of mixture per 1 g of hair. Application is easy and the product is localized to the application site.</p><p> The mixture is left at room temperature (25 ° C) for 30 minutes. There is no unpleasant odor during application.</p><p> The hair was then rinsed, washed with standard shampoo and dried.</p><p> A natural pale reddish-brown tuft (TD = 5) with excellent color intensity is obtained.</p>