High gloss gel-based lipstick

The present invention generally relates to lip cosmetic compositions. More specifically, the present invention is an ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) for imparting high gloss to the lips and / or for imparting a film on the lips with improved rheological properties of slipperiness and feel. (ETPEA) Regarding gel-based compositions.

Traditional lipstick products typically contain pigments and oils dispersed in a wax base. The wax base serves to provide the hardness and physical stability required for the composition to be in the form of a self-supporting stick desired by the consumer. However, as a result of the high wax levels typically required to obtain these properties, conventional lipsticks have some drawbacks. In particular, these do not give a high gloss finish and easily transfer from the lips to clothing, napkins, cups, etc., exhibiting unwanted bleeding (cineresis) of pigments and oils from the product. Recent methods for overcoming some of the drawbacks of waxy lipsticks are in addition to or partially conventional waxy ingredients to provide a stronger film that is harder to transfer and lasts longer. The main focus is on the use of polymer film-forming materials as an alternative to waxy components. However, such products have not been able to obtain high gloss until now. The first reason is that opaque wax makes the finish dull. In addition, it is known that the wax structure of conventional lipsticks decomposes under the shears encountered during normal wearing, and the fat-like feel of the newly applied product rapidly disappears.

So-called "lip gloss" products are also known, which provide a glossy finish and maintain a satisfactory oily rheology during use, but are not durable and are frequently reapplied to the lips to maintain the desired finish. There must be. Lip gloss products are typically clear or translucent oil-based formulations and may contain small amounts of colorant. High-gloss lip glosses are usually high-viscosity liquids and therefore cannot be in the convenient form of self-supporting sticks and are packed in tubes, pots, etc., typically applied to the lips with a finger or applicator.

<p><patcit num="1"><text>U.S. Pat. No. 6,552,160</text></patcit><patcit num="2"><text>U.S. Pat. No. 6,875,245</text></patcit><patcit num="3"><text>U.S. Pat. No. 6,552,160</text></patcit><patcit num="4"><text>U.S. Pat. No. 6,552,160</text></patcit><patcit num="5"><text>U.S. Pat. No. 6,552,160</text></patcit><patcit num="6"><text>U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2005/0197479</text></patcit><patcit num="7"><text>U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2005/0197479</text></patcit><patcit num="8"><text>U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2005/0197479</text></patcit><patcit num="9"><text>U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2004/0180011</text></patcit><patcit num="10"><text>U.S. Pat. No. 5,688,831</text></patcit><patcit num="11"><text>U.S. Pat. No. 6,471,950</text></patcit><patcit num="12"><text>U.S. Pat. No. 5,482,547</text></patcit><patcit num="13"><text>U.S. Pat. No. 4,832,944</text></patcit><patcit num="14"><text>U.S. Pat. No. 5,340,569</text></patcit><patcit num="15"><text>U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2002/0006422</text></patcit></p>

<p> Lip products that overcome one or more of the aforementioned drawbacks of conventional lip products, especially lipsticks and lip glosses, continue to be needed in the art. Lip products that combine the convenient colors of lipsticks with the high luster and desirable rheology of lip gloss to provide excellent luster, slipperiness, feel, payoff, and / or abrasion resistance, especially colored lips in stick form. It is desirable to get the product. Therefore, one object of the present invention is to provide a stick-shaped lip product that provides high gloss. Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a low wax content lip product having sufficient hardness to form a self-supporting stick. Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a stick-shaped lip product having a rheology characterized by a fat-like feel that does not diminish during use.</p>

<p> According to the above and other objectives, the present invention provides gel-based compositions that impart a high gloss film onto the lips and / or provide improved rheology. The gel-based compositions of the present invention can form self-supporting solids or semi-solids at room temperature, even in the absence of a substantial amount of wax conventionally required to provide a reality for lipsticks at room temperature. Since conventional amounts of wax are known to reduce gloss, this property allows the composition to be prepared as a low wax content lipstick that further contributes to a high gloss finish. Also, the use of a gel-based matrix rather than a wax-based matrix provides a rheology characterized by a long-lasting, fat-like feel on the lips.</p><p> The composition is of an ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymer (alone or in combination with a silicone T-resin co-gelling agent) capable of gelling non-polar and low-polar oils such as hydrocarbons and fatty acid esters. It shows a gelled structure containing a matrix. The composition is typically an ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymer sol-gel transition temperature T._gelA first wax component containing at least one wax with a higher melting point, and a sol-gel transition temperature T of the ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymer._gelContains a second wax component with a melting point comparable to or lower than. The combination of high and low melting point waxes in the gelled matrix contributes to the desirable rheological properties characterized by slipperiness and feel that were previously only available in liquid lip products. In addition, the gel network is transparent in nature, so the luster of the oily component is not compromised.</p><p> In one aspect of the invention, (a) has an average molecular weight of about 0.1 to about 40% by weight, between about 3000 and about 7500 daltons, and a sol-gel transition temperature T._gel(Here, T_gelEster-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymer (ETPEA) capable of forming gels with low-polar and non-polar oils below (above body temperature); (b) about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, T_gelFirst wax component containing one or more waxes with a higher melting point; (c) about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, T_gelComparable to or T_gelIs equal to or T_gelSecond wax component containing one or more waxes with a lower melting point; (d) Silicone T resin with a refractive index of at least 1.43 measured as a film at 25 ° C, from about 0.1 to about 25% by weight; (e) ETPEA polymer sol-gel transition temperature T_gelProvided below are compositions for imparting luster to the lips, comprising one or more low-polar or non-polar oils capable of forming a gel with the ETPEA polymer. Typically, one or more low-polarity or non-polar oils are selected from the group consisting of fatty acid esters, hydrocarbons, and silicone-based oils, and combinations thereof. The composition typically has a luster of at least about 65, more typically at least about 70, preferably at least about 75, even more preferably at least about 80, as measured at 85 degrees. In some embodiments of the invention, the composition has a luster of about 85 or higher, about 90 or higher, or about 95 or higher, as measured at 85 degrees.</p><p> In another aspect of the invention, a composition that imparts luster to the lips is provided as a self-supporting composition without the need for large amounts of wax required in conventional formulations, ie waxes in excess of about 12% by weight. .. The cosmetic composition of this aspect of the invention has: (a) about 0.1 to about 40% by weight INCI name bis-stearylethylenediamine / neopentyl glycol / stearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer from about 3000. ETPEA polymer sol-gel transition temperature T with an average molecular weight between about 7500 daltons_gel(Here, T of ETPEA polymer_gelETPEA polymer capable of forming gels with low-polarity and non-polar oils below (between about 70 ° C and about 85 ° C); (b) T of about 0.1 to about 12% by weight of ETPEA polymer_gelFirst wax component containing one or more waxes with a higher melting point of less than about 110 ° C; (c) T of about 0.1 to about 12% by weight of ETPEA polymer_gelIs comparable to T_gelIs equal to or T_gelSecond wax component containing one or more waxes with a lower melting point; (d) Alkylphenyl silsesquioxane having a refractive index of at least 1.43 when measured as a film at 25 ° C of about 0.1 to about 25% by weight. T resin (where at least one alkylphenyl sesquioxane resin is the siloxy moiety: [RSiO_3/2]_a[R¹SiO_3/2]_b[R²SiO_3/2]_c[R³₃SiO_1/2]_d[R³₂SiO_2/2]_e[SiO_4/2]_f(In the formula, R is methyl; R¹Is C_2-20Alkyl or C_5-20Cycloalkyl; R²Is phenyl and R³Is C_1-20Alkyl, C_5-20Cycloalkyl, C_7-14Alalkyl, C_7-14Alkaline or C_6-10Aryl; a, b, and c are such that each of these syroxy groups together make up at least 90 mole percent of the total syroxy moiety, and d, e, and f together. Includes (such as making up less than 10 mole percent of the total siloxy moiety); and (e) the sol-gel transition temperature of the ETPEA polymer T_gelContains one or more low-polar or non-polar oils capable of forming gels with ETPEA polymers below, wherein one or more low-polar or non-polar oils are selected from the group consisting of fatty acid esters, hydrocarbons, and silicone oils. To. Preferably, the first and second wax components together are less than or equal to about 12% by weight of the composition, i.e. lower than the conventional wax content of the lipstick. The composition is still self-supporting at room temperature and can therefore be prepared as a lipstick or the like. The composition typically has a hardness of at least 40 g at room temperature, but preferably has a substantially higher hardness, typically between about 200 and about 300 g. Surprisingly, even such a relatively stiff stick has an excellent "payoff" such that when applied to the lips, an acceptable amount of product is transferred to the lips.</p><p> In yet another aspect of the invention, a cosmetic composition that imparts luster to the lips: (a) about 0.1 to about 40% by weight, INCI name bis-stearylethylenediamine / neopentyl glycol / stearyl hydrogenated dimer. The sol-gel transition temperature of the ETPEA polymer, which has a body dilinoleate copolymer, has an average molecular weight between about 3000 and about 7500 daltons, and is between about 70 and about 85 ° C._gelWith ETPEA polymers capable of forming gels with low-polar and non-polar oils below; (b) selected from the group consisting of about 0.1-about 20% by weight of linear polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline petroleum waxes, and combinations thereof. With the first wax component containing one or more waxes; (c) with the second wax component containing about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, and; (d) about 0.1 to about 25% by weight, 25 ° With a phenylsilsesquioxane T resin having a polarity of at least 1.50 as measured as a film at C; (e) sol-gel transition temperature T_gelOne or more low-polarity or non-polar oils that can form a gel with the bis-stearylethylenediamine / neopentylglycol / stearylhydrocarbon dilinoleate copolymer below (where one or more low-polarity or non-polar oils are fatty acids A composition comprising (selected from the group consisting of esters, hydrocarbons, and silicone-based oils) and; (f) 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more pearlizing agents, wherein said composition. Measured at an angle of 85 °, the gloss over the entire range of 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more pearls, within about 10% of the gloss of the same composition except in the absence of one or more pearls. Shown.</p><p> Also provided is a method of applying a fat-like film to the lips, which generally comprises applying any of the gel-based lipstick compositions described herein to the lips.</p><p> In another aspect of the invention, (a) has an average molecular weight of about 0.1 to about 40% by weight, between about 3000 and about 7500 daltons, and a sol-gel transition temperature T._gel(Here, T_gelWith ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymers that can form gels with low-polar and non-polar oils below (above body temperature); (b) about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, T_gelWith a first wax component containing one or more waxes with a higher melting point; (c) about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, T_gelWith a second wax component containing one or more waxes with the following melting points; (e) Sol-gel transition temperature T_gelProvided below are compositions for imparting a fatty film to the lips, comprising one or more low-polar or non-polar oils capable of forming a gel with an ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymer, wherein one or more. Low-polar or non-polar oils are selected from the group consisting of ester, hydrocarbon, and silicone-based oils; compositions are from about 1 to about 10 sec.^-1Characterized by the viscosity measured during the second shear cycle, which is within ± 20% of the viscosity measured during the first shear cycle at all shear rates between, the first and second shear cycles are the same. Yes, about 1 to about 1000 sec^-1Includes shear rates that increase up to.</p><p> In yet another aspect of the invention, the composition for imparting a fat-like film to the lips: (a) having an average molecular weight between about 3000 and about 7500 daltons, from about 0.1 to about 40% by weight. And the sol-gel transition temperature T between about 70 ° C and about 85 ° C_gelWith bis-stearylethylenediamine / neopentyl glycol / stearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer capable of forming gels with low-polarity and non-polar oils below; (b) from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, T_gelWith a first wax component containing one or more waxes with a higher melting point; (c) about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, T_gelWith a second wax component containing one or more waxes with the following melting points; (e) Sol-gel transition temperature T_gelThe following provides a composition comprising an ETPEA polymer and one or more low-polarity or non-polar oils capable of forming a gel, wherein the one or more low-polarity or non-polar oils are ester, hydrocarbon, and silicone oils. Selected from the group consisting of; the composition is about 1 to about 10 sec^-1Characterized by the viscosity measured during the second shear cycle, which is within ± 20% of the viscosity measured during the first shear cycle at all shear rates between, the first and said second shear cycles are the same. And about 1 to about 1000 sec^-1Including shear rates that increase to; the composition: (i) about 1 to about 5 seconds as measured during the first and second shear cycles.^-1Viscosity greater than about 100 Pa · sec at shear rates between; and (ii) about 10 to about 50 sec as measured during the first and second shear cycles^-1Viscosity greater than about 10 Pa · sec at shear rates between; and (iii) about 100 sec as measured during the first and second shear cycles^-1It is characterized by a viscosity higher than about 1 Pa · sec at the shear rate of.</p><p> Also provided is a method of applying a fat-like film to the lips, which generally comprises applying the compositions of the invention with the improved rheological properties described herein to the lips.</p><p> These and other aspects of the invention are better understood by reference to the following detailed description, including the drawings and the appended claims.</p>

<figref num="1">A two-component lip with an 85 degree luster of the lipstick (A) of the present invention, a liquid lip gloss product (B), some commercially available wax-based lipsticks (CN), and a clear topcoat. It is a figure which compares with the gloss of the product (O).</figref><figref num="2">It is a figure which shows the solubility space of the ETPEA polymer gelling agent, and in the figure, each symbol "" is a Hansen solubility parameter pair (δ) of various solvents._P, Δ_H), The letters represent the formulation of a particular solvent with an ETPEA polymer with a polymer content of 15% by weight, where the "G" indicates a firm, clear gel; "G"_h"" Indicates a hard, cloudy gel; "M" indicates a cloudy solid; "S" indicates that the polymer was soluble in the solvent; "S"_p"" Indicates that a cloudy partial solution was formed; "I" indicates that the polymer was incompatible with the solvent.</figref><figref num="3">FIG. 5 compares specular reflection at 85 degrees between ETPEA gel-based lipsticks (Δ) and conventional wax-based lipsticks at various pearl and mica loadings.</figref><figref num="4">It is a figure which shows the viscosity of the conventional wax-based lipstick as a function of the shear rate over the first shear cycle () and the second shear cycle ().</figref><figref num="5">It is a figure which shows the viscosity of the ETPEA gel-based lipstick as a function of the shear rate over the first shear cycle () and the second shear cycle ().</figref>

As used herein, all terms are intended to have these usual and customary meanings, unless expressly stated otherwise. The present invention provides high gloss and superiority by using ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) (ETPEA) polymers and waxes in combination with certain co-gellants in cosmetic compositions such as lipsticks. Based on the discovery that products with ester rheology can be obtained. In addition to the ETPEA polymer, the composition typically comprises a co-gelling agent, ideally a high molecular weight silicone T resin, a first wax component and a second wax component. The first wax component is the sol-gel transition temperature T of the ETPEA polymer._gelIt contains at least one wax with a higher melting point and the second wax component is the sol-gel transition temperature T of the ETPEA polymer._gelComparable to or T_gelIs equal to or T_gelContains at least one wax with a lower melting point.

As used herein, when the term "comparable" is used with respect to the melting point of the second wax component, the melting point range of the wax is the upper limit of this melting point range and the T of the ETPEA polymer._gelIt means that it is slightly higher than, but in no case is higher than about 6 ° C, preferably about 3 ° C, and even more preferably about 1 ° C. Importantly, as the composition cools from its initial liquid state at high temperatures, the second wax component begins to crystallize or otherwise solidifies at the same time as or after the initiation of gelation of the ETPEA polymer. Thus, the second wax component is preferably (but not necessarily) constrained in the gel network of the ETPEA polymer as a microdisperse. The first wax component is T of ETPEA polymer_gelThe composition does not impose such restrictions on the solidification as it crystallizes at a higher temperature or coagulates in other ways.

ETPEA polymer and amount wax component is T of ETPEA polymer_gelAnd the melting points of both the first and second wax components are selected to be higher than room temperature (about 23 ° C) and preferably body temperature (about 36-38 ° C), so the ETPEA polymer is in use, ie. When the film is applied to the lips and under ambient conditions it remains gelled during storage and the wax remains solid.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition for imparting luster to the lips is: (a) from about 0.1 to about 40 wt%, average content of between about 3000 to about 7500 daltons having the molecular weight, the sol - gel transition temperature T_gel(Here, T_gelWith ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymers that can form gels with low-polar and non-polar oils below (above body temperature); (b) T of about 0.1 to about 20% by weight_gelWith a first wax component containing one or more waxes with a higher melting point; (c) T of about 0.1 to about 20% by weight_gelWith a second wax component containing one or more waxes with the following melting points; (d) With a refractive index of at least 1.43 as measured as a film at about 0.1 to about 25% by weight silicone T resin and 25 ° C; (e) The sol-gel transition temperature T_gelOne or more low-polar or non-polar oils that can form a gel with the ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymer below (where the one or more low-polar and non-polar oils are esters, hydrocarbons, and silicones. (Selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbons) Including; The composition has a luster of at least about 65 (preferably at least 70, 75, 80, or at least about 85) when measured at 85 degrees. As shown in FIG. 1, the lipstick compositions of the present invention (indicated by "A") are commercially available wax-based lipsticks (denoted as CN, the same applies elsewhere herein), as well as Provides higher luster than a two-component lipstick (O) containing a typical liquid lip gloss (B) and a clear topcoat.

The various components of the composition are described below.

ETPEA polymer The ETPEA polymer is a required component of the compositions of the present invention. In a wide range of embodiments, any ETPEA polymer suitable for cosmetic applications is considered suitable if the polymer can exist as a gel at room temperature, preferably body temperature. In this regard, the sol-gel transition temperature of ETPEA polymers is typically above about 40 ° C, more typically above about 50 ° C, preferably above about 60 ° C, and even more preferably about 70 ° C. Higher than ° C. In currently preferred embodiments, the ETPEA polymer has a T of between about 70 ° C and about 80 ° C._gelFor example, typical embodiments have a T of about 70 ° C, about 75 ° C, about 80 ° C and about 85 ° C._gelHave. Although not exactly the same, the softening point of the ETPEA polymer, as measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), is the temperature at which the hydrogen bond network of the polymer gel begins to break, so the sol-gel transition temperature T._gelIs useful for estimating. In some embodiments, the ETPEA polymer has a softening point between about 70 ° C and about 85 ° C, such as about 70 ° C, about 75 ° C, about 80 ° C, and about 85 ° C. Non-limiting examples of suitable ETPEA polymers and methods of making them are described in Patent Document 1 and Patent Document 2 (the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety).

In general, ETPEA polymers are random, alternating, or block copolymers containing units A and B that bond to each other by ester and / or amide bonds and terminate by ester bonds to end groups, where: (a) Unit A is the structure:

<chemistry num="1"><img file="JP2010513541A_D0001.tif" /></chemistry>

(During the ceremony, R has 4 to 70 carbon atoms and is optionally: (i) one or more unsaturated bonds; (ii) one or more aliphatic or aromatic rings; and / or (iii) halogen, oxygen, nitrogen. , And a linear, branched, or cyclic alkyl group containing one or more heteroatoms selected from the group consisting of sulfur, where R is optionally one or more groups that attach R to an additional unit A or B-. May include (C = O) -O-; R is chosen independently for each of the units A; R₁Is selected from the group consisting of linear, branched, or cyclic alkyl groups, aryl groups, or heteroaryl groups, and combinations thereof, optionally: (i) one or more unsaturated bonds; (ii) one or more fats. Group or aromatic rings; and / or (iii) radicals with 2-36 carbon atoms that may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from the group consisting of halogens, oxygen, nitrogen, and sulfur, R.₁Is selected independently for each of the units A; R^*Independently in each case has hydrogen, aryl, and 1-10 carbon atoms, optionally: (i) one or more unsaturated bonds; (ii) one or more aliphatic or aromatic rings; And / or (iii) Independently selected from linear, branched, or cyclic alkyl groups that may have one or more heteroatoms selected from the group consisting of halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, and sulfur; Each R^*Is R₁Or other R^*May form a heterocycle with Have; (b) Unit B is the structure:

<chemistry num="2"><img file="JP2010513541A_D0002.tif" /></chemistry>

(In the equation, R is as defined above, and R is selected independently for each of B.₂Has 2 to 20 carbon atoms and is optionally: (i) one or more unsaturated bonds; (ii) one or more aliphatic or aromatic rings; and / or (iii) halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, A linear, branched, or cyclic alkyl group that may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from the group consisting of and sulfur, R.₂Is optionally R₂May contain a group between 1 and 4 in the form of -O- that binds to an additional unit A or B; R₂Is selected independently for each of the units B) Have; (c) R₃The terminal group in the form of O- forms an ester bond with the terminal carbonyl group of units A and / or B (where R₃Independently at each end group, has 10-30 carbon atoms, optionally: (i) one or more unsaturated bonds; (ii) one or more aliphatic or aromatic rings; and / or ( iii) A linear, branched, or cyclic alkyl group that may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from the group consisting of halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, and sulfur).

In some embodiments, R may be the same for each of the units A and / or B in the polymer. In other embodiments, R may differ for one or more units A and / or B. Similarly, R₁And / or R₂Is preferably the same for each of the units A and / or B, but may be different for each. The idiom "for each of the units A" is that any given unit A of the plurality of units A contained in the polymer is R and R.₁It means that it can be different from other units A of 1 or more depending on the selection of. Similarly, the idiom "for each of the units B" states that of the plurality of units B contained in the polymer, the individual units B are R and R, respectively.₂It means that it is different from other units B of 1 or more depending on the selection of. That is, for example, R₁Is based-CH₂-CH₂-If, then each of the units A is R₁About the same group-CH₂-CH₂-Contains or R₁May contain different groups for. For example, R₁Is the basis in some cases of unit A-CH₂-CH₂-Can be, in other cases of unit A, for example group-CH₂-(CH₂)_1-4-CH₂-Can be. In one embodiment, R, R₁, And R₂One or more of is the same for all units A and / or B in the polymer.

In the preferred ETPEA polymer of the present invention, in the case of 1 or more of the unit A, each R^*Is hydrogen and R₁Is-(CR'R )_n-Groups (where n is an integer from 2 to 12 and R'and R "are independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl, respectively. In a preferred embodiment, R₁Is in each case of unit A-(CH₂)₂-. In other embodiments, R₁Is at least 80%, preferably at least 90%, more preferably at least 95% of the unit A-(CH₂)₂-.

Preferably R₂Is greater than or equal to the unit B,-(CH₂)_n-, -CH₂-CR'H- and -CH₂-CR'R -CH₂Selected from the group consisting of-, in the equation n is an integer of 2-6, R'and R'have independent hydrogen or 1-12 carbon atoms, optionally R'and / or An alkyl or aryl group that may contain a group between 1 and 4 in the -O-form and / or optionally one or more groups in the -OH form that attaches R "to an additional unit of A or B. In a preferred embodiment, R₂Is greater than or equal to the unit B, -CH₂-C (CH)₃)₂-CH₂It is a divalent neopentyl group (neopentylene) containing a group in the form of-.

In a preferred embodiment, R₁Is at least 95%, preferably for each unit A-(CH₂)₂-And R₂Is at least 95%, preferably for each unit B-CH₂-C (CH)₃)₂-CH₂-.

Preferably, for units A and / or one or more of units B, R is an independent structure for each:

<chemistry num="3"><img file="JP2010513541A_D0003.tif" /></chemistry>

(In the formula, a, b, c, and d are independently integers from 1 to 20) It is a group having. Those skilled in the art will appreciate this form of group corresponding to the alkyl moiety of the hydrogenated fatty acid dimer, eg C.₁₈The reaction products formed by heating unsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, etc.) in the presence of a clay catalyst and subsequently hydrogenating can be seen. To explain another case, R is 5 to 30 carbon atoms independently in each case, preferably C.₁₈Excludes alkyl moieties of dimer acids (ie, -C (= O) -OH functional groups formed by the dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids with unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and tall oil fatty acids. Part) can be selected from the corresponding divalent alkyl groups.

In one embodiment, the ETPEA polymer is a random polymer comprising n equivalents of unit A and m equivalents of unit B, wherein n and m have an average molecular weight between about 3000 and about 7500 daltons. Is selected. Preferably n and m are selected to give a polymer with an average molecular weight between about 5000 and about 6000, more preferably about 5500 daltons. Suitable ETPEA polymers can be prepared from dibasic acids, diamines, polyols and monoalcohol components, for example as described in Patent Document 3 (whose disclosure is incorporated herein by reference). Briefly, w equivalents of polyol-derived hydroxyls or their reactive equivalents, x equivalents of diacid-derived carboxylic acids or their reactive equivalents, y equivalents of diamine-derived amines, and z equivalents of monoalcohol. The derived hydroxyl or its reactive equivalent (where w / (w + y + z) is in the range of about 0.05 to 0.45; y / (w + y + z) is in the range of about 0.25 to 0.75. Yes; z / (w + y + z) is in the range 0.20 to 0.50) under reaction conditions such that a resin composition with an acid value of less than 20 and an amine value of less than 20 is obtained. ETPEA polymers can be prepared with, where at least about 50% of the carboxylic acid equivalents are derived from polymerized fatty acids, at least about 50% of the amine equivalents are derived from ethylenediamine, and monoalcohols are substantially resinous. It is the only monofunctional reactant used to form. Preferably, 10-60 equivalent percent of the total hydroxyl and amine equivalents obtained from diamines, polyols and monoalcohols are obtained from monoalcohols; the total hydroxyl and amine equivalents obtained from diamines, polyols and monoalcohols. About 50 equivalent percent is obtained from polyols. Preferably, the polymerized fatty acid comprises at least 75 equivalent percent, more preferably at least 90 equivalent percent of the acid equivalent of the dibasic acid. Ethylenediamine preferably constitutes at least about 70 equivalent percent of the amine equivalent from the diamine.

The selection of dibasic acids, diamines, polyols and monoalcohols is preferably described in Patent Document 4 (the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference). Briefly, preferred dibasic acids are polymerized fatty acids formed from oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, tall oil fatty acids and the like. The polymerized fatty acids are preferably hydrogenated prior to use. Preferably, the diamine reactant is ethylenediamine. A preferred monoalcohol (ie, monohydric) reactant is of formula R.₃OH (in the formula, R₃Is preferably a hydrocarbon group having at least 10 carbon atoms, such as 1-dodecanol, 1-tetradecanol, 1-hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), 1-octadecanol (stearyl alcohol), 1-eicosanol. (Arachidyl alcohol) and 1-docosanol (behenyl alcohol) and the like. Preferred polyols include, without limitation, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, neopentyl glycol, tris (hydroxymethyl) methanol, dipentaerythritol, tripentaerythritol and the like. In addition to polymerized fatty acids and ethylenediamine, other diacids and diamines may also be present. Suitable "co-diacids" and "co-diamines" include, but are not limited to, those described in Patent Document 5 (incorporated into the present invention by reference). Can be mentioned.

Currently preferred ETPEA polymers of the invention are bis-stearylethylenediamine / neopentyl glycol / stearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymers (Arizona Chemical (Jacksonville, FL) to SYLVACLEAR® C75V, according to the INCI nomenclature. Commercially available as a trademark). This polymer has a softening point between 75 and 85 ° C as measured by the Ring &amp; Ball method of ASTM E28-99 (incorporated in the invention by reference); by ASTM D803, D65 and D1980 (incorporated in the invention by reference). It is characterized by an acid value of 26 (maximum) as measured; an amine value of 1 (maximum) as measured by ASTM D2073 and D2074 (incorporated herein by reference); and an average molecular weight of approximately 5500 daltons.

The ETPEA polymer preferably comprises from about 0.1 to about 40% by weight of the composition, typically from about 0.1 to about 25% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the ETPEA polymer constitutes from about 0.5 to about 15% by weight or from about 0.5 to about 12% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the ETPEA polymer constitutes less composition than the lipstick formulation disclosed in Pavlin's Patent Document 6 (incorporated into the present invention by reference). The lipstick formulation described in Pavlin's Patent Document 7 typically constitutes 15-25% by weight of ETPEA polymer (including several examples of 18% by weight ETPA polymer levels). Thus, in some embodiments, the compositions of the invention constitute ETPEA polymers ranging from 0.1% by weight to less than about 12, 10, 8, 6, or about 5% by weight. In other embodiments, the compositions of the invention are 0.1 to about 2.5% by weight ETPEA polymer, 0.1 to about 2% by weight ETPEA polymer, 0.1 to about 1.5% by weight ETPEA polymer, or 0.1 to about 1% by weight. Includes ETPEA polymer. In one interesting variant, the EPTEA polymer comprises 0.5-1% by weight, or less than 0.5-1% by weight, composition. Suitable lipsticks are 0.1 ~ 1%, 1-2%, 2-3%, 3 ~ 4%, 4 ~ 5%, 5 ~ 6%, 6 ~ 7%, 7 ~ 8%, 8 ~ 9% , 9-10%, 10-11 or 11-12 wt% ETPEA polymers can be prepared from compositions, each range is considered as another embodiment of the invention. In one typical embodiment, the composition comprises from about 5 to about 6% by weight ETPEA polymer. The compositions of the present invention are believed to provide better gloss and / or hardness and / or rheology than Patent Document 8.

wax The first wax component may include any wax, especially those typically used in lipsticks and other cosmetics. However, the melting point of wax is T of ETPEA polymer._gelShall be higher than. Similarly, the second wax component may include a cosmetically acceptable wax. However, the melting point of wax is T of ETPEA polymer._gelIs comparable to T_gelIs equal to or T_gelSuppose it is lower.

The wax may be a natural, mineral and / or synthetic wax. Natural waxes are of animal origin, including beeswax, whale wax, lanolin, and shellac wax, without limitation, and of plant origin, such as carnauba, candelilla, bayberry, and sugar cane wax, without limitation.

Mineral waxes that may be useful include, without limitation, ozokerite, ceresin, montan, paraffin, microcrystals, petroleum, and petrolatum wax.

Synthetic waxes include, for example, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-18, PEG-20, PEG-32, PEG-75, PEG-90, PEG-100, and PEG-180 (trademark Carbowax® (The Dow Chemical)). (Sold by Company)). Carbowax 1000 with a molecular weight range of about 950 to 1050 and a melting point of about 38 ° C, Carbowax 1450 with a molecular weight range of about 1305-1595 and a melting point of about 56 ° C, with a molecular weight range of 3015 to 3685 The Carbowax 3350, which has a melting point of about 56 ° C, and the Carbowax 8000, which has a molecular weight range of 7000 to 9000 and a melting point of about 61 ° C, are mentioned.

Synthetic waxes also include Fischer Tropsh (FT) waxes and polyolefin waxes such as ethylene homopolymers, ethylene-propylene copolymers, and ethylene-hexene copolymers. Representative ethylene homopolymer waxes are commercially available under the trademark POLYWAX® Polyethylene (Baker Hughes Incorporated) and have melting points in the range of 80 ° C to 132 ° C. Commercially available ethylene-α-olefin copolymer waxes are sold under the trademark PETROLITE® Copolymer (Baker Hughes Incorporated) (melting points range from 95 ° C to 115 ° C). Can be mentioned.

Table 1 shows some suitable waxes arranged by melting point or melting point range.

<tables num="1"><img file="JP2010513541A_D0004.tif" /></tables>

The melting points and ranges listed in Table 1 are merely representative examples of typical values for each wax, and a wide variety of melting points in the melting point range is observed from sample to sample, depending on the source and purity of the wax. Thus, for example, ozokelite wax is considered useful in the practice of the present invention regardless of whether the melting point is measured at 72 ° C. It is possible for those skilled in the art to determine the melting point or melting point range of any given wax sample. The melting point can be determined, for example, by a drop melting point according to ASTM D127 (incorporated into the present invention by reference) and / or a ring softening point according to ASTM D36 (incorporated into the present invention by reference). ..

ETPEA polymer has a sol-gel transition temperature of about 70 to about 85 ° C T_gelIn a preferred embodiment having, the first wax component has a melting point of higher than about 70 ° C and up to about 85 ° C, and has a linear polyethylene, microcrystalline petroleum wax, carnauba wax, lignite wax, urikuri wax. , Rice wax, Custer wax, Montan wax, Stearon (18-pentatria contanone), Akra wax (N, N'-ethylene bisstealamide), and one or more waxes selected from the group consisting of combinations thereof. including. Preferably, the first wax component comprises linear polyethylene and / or microcrystalline petroleum wax.

ETPEA polymer sol-gel transition temperature T from about 70 ° C to about 85 ° C_gelIn embodiments with, the second wax component has a melting point comparable to, equal to, or lower than about 70 ° C to about 85 ° C, and has a melting point of bayberry wax, custard wax, Japanese wax. , Ozokelite wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, petrolatum, ceresin wax, cocoa butter, ilippe fat, esparto wax, C₁₈-C₃₆Consists of ethylene glycol diester or triester of fatty acids, cetyl palmitate, paraffin wax, hard tallow, lanolin, lanolin alcohol, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, sugar cane wax, jojoba wax, stearyl alcohol, silicone wax, and combinations thereof. Contains one or more waxes selected from the group. Preferably, the second wax component comprises ozokelite wax.

In one embodiment, the composition is free of carnauba wax. In another embodiment, the composition does not contain candelilla wax.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an ozokelite wax and at least one or at least two other waxes. Preferably, at least one additional wax has a higher melting point than ozokerite wax, and preferably at least two additional waxes have a higher melting point than ozokerite. In another embodiment, the composition comprises an ozokelite wax and at least one, or at least two other waxes. However, at least one of the additional waxes, preferably at least two of the additional waxes, is a synthetic wax. In yet another embodiment of the invention, the composition is at least one, preferably at least two additions, selected from ozokerite waxes and microcrystalline petroleum waxes and polyolefin waxes (including, without limitation, straight chain polyethylene waxes). Contains wax.

Examples of compositions of the present invention include the ETPEA gelling agent bis-stearylethylenediamine / neopentylglycol / stearyl hydride dilinoleate copolymer, and the first wax component comprises microcrystalline petroleum wax and linear polyethylene wax. Or, it is basically composed of microcrystalline petroleum wax and linear polyethylene wax, and the second wax component contains or is basically composed of ozokerite. In this regard, the phrase "basically composed" has a negative effect on one or more of gloss, hardness, and / or rheology when compared to the same composition without additional wax. Intended to eliminate any additional wax components.

The first and second wax components are present in the formulation in an amount of about 0.15 to about 20% by weight, respectively, on the basis of the total weight of the formulation. Preferably, each wax component constitutes from about 0.5 to about 15% by weight of the total composition. In one embodiment, the first and second wax components are comprehensively from about 1 to about 12% by weight or from less than about 1% to less than about 12% by weight, both lower than conventionally used levels in lipsticks. Wax level. In other embodiments, the first wax component is from about 1, 5, or about 10% to about 12 or about 15% by weight of the total composition, and the second wax component is from about 0.1, 0.5, of the total composition. 1 or about 5% to about 5,10, or about 12% by weight. The first wax component is the sol-gel transition temperature T of the ETPEA polymer._gelIt contains all the waxes in the composition with a higher melting point, as well as the second wax component T of the ETPEA polymer._gelComparable to or T_gelIs equal to or T_gelContains all waxes in compositions with lower melting points.

In one embodiment of the invention, the composition is about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, typically 0.5 to about 3% by weight, more typically about 0.5 to about 2.5% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 2. It contains% by weight ozokelite wax and at least one or at least two other waxes, the total weight of which is typically about 2.5 to about 15% by weight, and more typically about 3% to about 12%. It is in the range of% by weight, preferably about 4% by weight to about 10% by weight, and even more preferably about 5% by weight to about 8% by weight. In one embodiment, the ozokelite wax comprises from about 1 to about 2% by weight of the composition and is at least one selected from microcrystalline petroleum wax and polyolefin wax (including, without limitation, linear polyethylene wax). , Preferably containing at least two additional waxes, making up about 5-8% by weight of the total composition.

Typically, the sol-gel transition temperature of the ETPEA polymer T_gelComparable to or T_gelIs equal to or T_gelWax components with lower melting points (ie, lower melting point wax components) are about 20: 1 to about 1:20, more typically about 10: 1 to about 1:10, usually about 5: 1, 4 It is present in a weight ratio of 1, 3: 1 or 2: 1 to about 1: 2, 1: 3, 1: 4 or 1: 5 to the ETPEA polymer. In some embodiments, the low melting point wax component is equal to or greater than the amount of ETPEA polymer on a weight basis, so the weight ratio of the low melting point wax, preferably ozokelite, to the ETPEA polymer is greater than 1: 1 or greater than or equal to 1: 1. Preferably greater than 1.2: 1, greater than 1.4: 1, greater than 1.6: 1, greater than 1.8: 1, or greater than 2: 1.

Typically, the ETPEA polymer T_gelWax components with higher melting points (ie, refractory wax components) are about 50: 1 to about 1:20, more typically about 25: 1 to about 1:10, usually about 15: 1. It is present in a weight ratio of 12: 1, 10: 1 or 8: 1 to about 1: 1 to the ETPEA polymer. In some embodiments, the refractory wax component is equal to or greater than the amount of ETPEA polymer on a weight basis, thus the weight ratio of the refractory wax component to the ETPEA polymer is greater than 1: 1, preferably 2. Greater than 1 or greater than 4: 1 or greater than 6: 1 or greater than 8: 1 or greater than 10: 1.

In some embodiments, the amount of the high melting point wax component exceeds the amount of the low melting point wax in the composition, so that the weight ratio of the high melting point wax component to the low melting point wax component is from about 1: 1 or more to about 20. 1, typically about 1.5: 1 to about 15: 1, more typically about 2: 1 to about 3: 1, 4: 1, 5: 1 or 10: 1.

Silicone T resin Although not strictly necessary for the practice of the present invention, the incorporation of a silicone resin (ie, T resin) having a third bond of siloxy units as a co-gelling agent will significantly increase the gloss, slippage and feel of the cosmetics of the present invention. Surprisingly, it turned out to be improved. Therefore, a preferred embodiment comprises silicone T resin, typically between about 0.1 and about 25% by weight of the total composition.

Suitable silicone T resins contain alkyl and / or aryl syloxy groups in order to increase the refractive index of the resin, but preferably include aryl syroxy groups such as phenyl syroxy groups. Examples of such resins are methylphenylsilsesquioxane or polyphenylsilsesquioxane. Other suitable silicone T resins are described in Patent Document 9 (disclosure thereof is incorporated in the present invention by reference) without limitation._2-20Examples include alkylphenyl silsesquioxane resins. Generally disclosed C_2-20Alkylphenyl silsesquioxane resin has the following siloxy moieties: [RSiO_3/2]_a[R¹SiO_3/2]_b[R²SiO_3/2]_c[R³₃SiO_1/2]_d[R³₂SiO_2/2]_e[SiO_4/2]_f(In the formula, R is methyl; R¹Is C_2-20Alkyl or C_5-20Cycloalkyl; R²Is phenyl; R³Is C_1-20Alkyl, C_5-20Cycloalkyl, C_7-14Alalkyl, C_7-14Alkaline or C_6-10Aryl; a, b, and c are such that the respective syroxy groups together make up at least 90 mole percent of the total syroxy moiety, preferably b and c together are the sum of the syroxy moieties. Consists of 20-100 mol percent of, where d, e, and f together make up less than 10 mol percent of all of one siloxy moiety, preferably d, e, and f at zero. is there.

In one embodiment, a, d, e, and f are zero and R¹Is C_3-8Alkyl, preferably propyl. The most preferred silicone T resin is propylphenylsilsesquioxane resin, which has a siloxy moiety [CH].₃CH₂CH₂SiO_3/2]_bAnd [C₆H₅SiO_3/2]_c(In the formula, the molar ratio of b: c is between about 10: 1 and about 1:10, preferably between about 1: 1 and about 1: 5, and more preferably about 1: 3. )including. Propylphenylsilsesquioxane resins typically have a softening point between about 40 ° C and about 50 ° C, preferably above 45 ° C, and above about 1.4 when measured as a film at 25 ° C. It is high, preferably higher than about 1.5, and more preferably has a refractive index of about 1.57 or higher.

Currently preferred resin is Wacker Belsil® SPR45VP, a propylphenylsilsesquioxane resin commercially available from Wacker Chemical (Adrian, Mich.). This polymer has a refractive index of 1.55 when measured as a liquid at 82 ° C and a refractive index of 1.57 when measured as a film at 25 ° C. Silicone T resins are typically provided in solvent-free form, but are compatible with fatty acid ester oils, silicone oils, and / or hydrocarbons (ie, partially solubilize them) and are in the final formulation. It must limit the cineresis of these components.

In some embodiments, the silicone T resin is about 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, or 5% to about 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10% of the total composition. , 12%, 15%, or 20%, more typically about 4-10% of the composition, and in one useful embodiment, about 5-7% of the composition. ..

Non-polar and low-polar oils The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises one or more low polar and / or non-polar oils capable of forming a gel with an ETPEA polymer. In a preferred embodiment, suitable oils are selected from the group consisting of esters, especially fatty acid esters; silicone oils; and hydrocarbons.

Ester oils include any non-polar or low-polarity ester, including fatty acid esters. Special mention is made of esters commonly used as emollients in cosmetic formulations. Such esters are typically R₄(COOH)_1-2Form acid R₅(OH)_1-3The etherification product in the form of alcohol, where R₄And R₅Are independently linear, branched, or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, optionally containing unsaturated bonds, from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferably. Has 3 to 30 carbon atoms and may be optionally substituted with one or more functional groups such as hydroxyl, oxa, and oxo. Preferably R₄And R₅The ester comprises at least one fatty acid, as at least one of them contains at least 10, more preferably at least 15, 16, 17, or 18 carbon atoms. Esters as defined above include, without limitation, esters of monoacids with monoalcohols, esters of monoacids with diols and triols, esters of diacids with monoalcohols, and esters of triacids with monoalcohols.

Suitable fatty acid esters include, without limitation, butyl acetate, butyl isostearate, butyl oleate, butyl octyl oleate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl laurate, cetyl lactate, cetyl isononanoate, cetyl stea. Rate, diisostearyl fumarate, diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebasate, di C_12-13Alkylmalate, disetearyl dimer dilinoleate, disetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisopropyl dimerate, triisostearyl trilinoleate, octadecyl stearoyl stearate, hexyl laurate, hexadecyl isostearate, hex. Decyl laurate, hexyl decyl octanoate, hexyl decyl oleate, hexyl decyl palmitate, hexyl decyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl isonoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, isohexadecyl stearate, isopropyl Isostearate, n-propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, n-propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, hexacosanyl palmitate, lauryl lactate, octacosanyl palmitate, propylene glycol monolaurate, triacontanyl palmitate , Dotria-contanyl palmitate, tetratria-contanyl palmitate, hexacosanyl stearate, octacosanyl stearate, tria-contanyl stearate, dotria-contanyl stearate, stearyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, stearyl hepta Noate, stearyl stearate, tetratriria-contanyl stearate, triarachidin, tributyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, tri-C_12-13-Alkylcitrate, tricaprylin, tricaprylyl citrate, tridecylbehenate, trioctyldodecylcitrate, tridecylcocoate, tridecylisononanoate, glycerylmonolithinolate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2- Octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate, tocopheryl acetate and the like.

Other suitable esters include R₅Is H- (O-CHR^*-CHR^*)_n-(In the formula, R^*Includes hydrogen or linear alkyl, eg, independently selected from methyl and ethyl) with polyglycol, such as polyethylene glycol monolaurate.

Salicylate and benzoate are also considered useful esters in the practice of the present invention. Suitable salicylates and benzoates include salicylic acid or benzoic acid R.₆OH type (in the formula, R₆Is a linear, branched, or cyclic hydrocarbon group, optionally containing unsaturated bonds, 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 15 carbon atoms. The ester with (the one having) is mentioned. Suitable salicylates include, for example, octyl salicylate and hexyldodecyl salicylate, and benzoate esters include C._12-15Examples thereof include alkylbenzoate, isostearylbenzoate, hexyldecylbenzoate and benzylbenzoate.

Other suitable esters include, to name a few, polyglyceryl isostearate / IPDI copolymers, triisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleates, polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, and lanolin.

The oil may be a volatile or non-volatile silicone oil. Suitable silicone oils include straight chain or cyclic silicones such as polyalkyl or polyarylsiloxanes, which may optionally contain an alkyl or alkoxy group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical silicone oils include, for example, caprylyl methicone, cyclomethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and heptamethylhexyltri. Examples thereof include siloxane, heptamethyloctyldisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, methicone, methyl-phenylpolysiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, perfluorononyldimethicone, polydimethylsiloxane, and combinations thereof.

Silicone oils typically have viscosities between about 5 and about 3000 cm stalk (cSt), preferably between 50 and 1000 cSt, as measured at 25 ° C, but this is not always necessary.

In one embodiment, in the case of the preferred silicone oil methylphenylpolysiloxane, INCI name diphenyldimethicone (commercially available from Shin Etsu Chemical Co under various trademarks including F-5W, KF-54 and KF-56). As such, silicone oil contains a phenyl group. Diphenyldimethicone has good organic compatibility and imparts film-forming properties to the product. In addition, the presence of phenyl groups increases the refractive index of the silicone oil and further contributes to the high gloss of the product. In one embodiment, the silicone oil has a refractive index of at least 1.3, preferably at least 1.4, even more preferably at least 1.45, and even more preferably at least 1.5, as measured at 25 ° C. Another suitable phenyl functionalized silicone oil has the INCI name Phenyltrimethicone and is sold by Dow Corning under the trade name "DC556". DC556 has a refractive index of about 1.46.

In one embodiment of the invention, the silicone oil is a fluorinated silicone, preferably a perfluorinated silicone (ie, fluorosilicone). Fluorosilicones are advantageously hydrophobic and oleophobic, thus advantageously contributing to the desired slipperiness and feel of the product. Fluorosilicone also adds durability to lip products. Fluorosilicone can be gelled with behenyl behenate and can be incorporated into ETPEA gels or dimethicone, which can be further incorporated into the ETPEA gel network. A preferred fluorosilicone is a fluorinated organic functional silicone solution having the INCI name perfluorononyldimethicone. Perfluorononyldimethicone is commercially available from Pheonix Chemical under the trade name Pecosil®.

The composition can also include hydrocarbon oils. Examples of hydrocarbon oils include straight or branched paradecane hydrocarbons having 5 to 80 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 16 carbon atoms, such as these. Not limited to, but not limited to, pentane, hexane, heptane, octane, nonane, decane, undecane, dodecane, tetradecane, tridecane and the like. Preferred hydrocarbon oils are C_8-9Isoparaffin, C_9-11Isoparaffin, C₁₂Isoparaffin, and C_20-40It is a highly branched aliphatic hydrocarbon such as isoparaffin. INCI name Isohexadecane, Isoeikosan, and Isoparaffin having isododecane are specifically mentioned.

Polyalphaolefins typically having more than 20 carbon atoms, such as C_24-28Olefin, C_30-45Olefin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, squalene, squalene and the like are also suitable as hydrocarbon oils. Hydrocarbon oils may also include higher aliphatic alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and the like.

Other suitable oils include, without limitation, castor oil, C._10-18Triglyceride, capril / caprin / triglyceride, coconut oil, corn oil, cotton seed oil, flaxseed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm oil, iripe fat, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, walnut oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, macadamia nuts Examples include oil, turtle oil, mink oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, olive oil, and combinations thereof.

It is assumed that any of the ester oils, silicone oils, and hydrocarbon oils will be useful in the practice of the present invention. Thus, in one embodiment, the composition comprises at least one oil selected from the ester oils, silicone oils, and hydrocarbon oils described above. In another embodiment, the composition comprises an ester oil, a silicone oil, and two or more oils selected from the hydrocarbon oils. In yet another embodiment, the composition comprises at least one ester, at least one silicone oil, and at least one hydrocarbon oil. Since the ester oils described herein act as emollients, the composition comprises at least one ester oil and at least one additional oil selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and combinations thereof. It is preferable to optionally include.

Since the oil is preferably compatible with the ETPEA polymer, the oil is incorporated into the gel matrix at a temperature below the sol-gel transition temperature of the ETPEA polymer. ETPEA polymers can gel oils of various polarities, but preferred ETPEA polymers are typically capable of optimal gelation only with low-polarity and non-polar oils, but this is not always necessary. Absent. That is, what is needed for a solid gel structure, eg, self-supporting solids and semi-solids that can be formulated as lipsticks, is optimally achieved with low-polar and non-polar oils. The presence of substantial amounts of highly polar oils and solvents tends to weaken the gel and is therefore less preferred, especially if the gel is formulated as a self-supporting stick, such as a lipstick. Of course, the inclusion of polar components is within the scope of the invention, but large amounts of such components may be undesirable for all applications.

The ability of any given molecule to interact with any other molecule is expressed in the formula: δ = (δ_D²+ δ_P²+ δ_H²)^1/2(In the formula, δ_DIs the variance or "non-polar" parameter associated with the van der Waals interaction, δ_PIs a polar parameter related to the ability of the molecule to form dipole interactions, δ_HIs a parameter related to the ability of a molecule to form hydrogen bonds) It can be expressed by the Hansen solubility parameter of. Typically, δ_DIs not very different between different species and can therefore be ignored as a useful approximation. The remaining parameter δ_PAnd δ_HCan be calculated based on well-known Hildebrand parameters for any given molecule and can be found in Hansen, CM, Hansen Solubility Prameter, A User's Handbook, CRC Press, 1999, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. It can be plotted in the described two-dimensional "solubility space".

The solvent space of the Hansen solubility parameter for various solvents is shown with reference to FIG. Each symbol "" is the parameter pair of each solvent (δ)_P, Δ_H). The solvent is a relatively non-polar solvent that allows only weak hydrogen bond interactions, such as toluene (δ)._P= 0.7, δ_HHighly polar solvents capable of strong hydrogen bond interactions from = 1.0), such as diethylene glycol (δ)_P= 7.2, δ_HIt varies up to = 10). Relatively non-polar solvents capable of significant hydrogen bonding, such as 2-ethyl-1-hexanol (δ)_P= 1.6, δ_H= 5.8), and highly polar solvents with weak hydrogen bonding potential, such as propylene carbonate (δ)_P= 8.8, δ_H= 2.0) is also included.

With the solvent shown in Figure 2 (δ)_P, Δ_h8, 2.0). The solvent adequately encapsulates the optimum solubility space for the preferred ETPEA polymer of the invention, while other useful EPTPEA polymers have gelling properties with solvents of different polarities (ie, polar and highly polar molecules). Can have. One of ordinary skill in the art is readily available in the literature on various solvents or can be readily calculated for any given molecule based on the Hildebrand parameters (δ)._P, Δ_h) Values can be used to obtain solubility spaces across various polarities different from those described herein.

Data points for the various solvents mentioned above (δ)_P, Δ_h), Figure 2 also shows the experimental results of combining the ETPEA polymer SYLVACLEAR® C75V with a typical number of solvents with a 15% solid content. The letter "G" indicates the test solvent that provides a solid clear gel and the symbol "G"_h"" Indicates that a solid gel was formed, but this gel was opaque. The letter "M" indicates that a cloudy solid has been formed. The letter "S" indicates that the polymer was soluble in the solvent at 15% by weight, the symbol "S"_p"Indicates that a cloudy partial solution has been formed. The letter "I" indicates that the polymer was incompatible with the solvent. By superimposing the gelling properties of the ETPEA polymer on the Hansen solubility solvent space in this way, the δ required for optimal gelation._pAnd δ_hThe range of values can be visualized and extended to other solvents according to the basic principle of solubility / compatibility that "similar ones dissolve in the same way". For example, δ higher than about 5_PSolvents, oils, etc. tend to be incompatible with certain ETPEA polymers SYLVACLEAR® C75V, because of N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (δ)._P= 6.0) and ethylene glycol phenyl ether (EPH) (δ)_P= 5.1) are incompatible with the polymer, whereas δ_P= 0 ~ 4.0 and δ_hThis is because all solvents in the range of = 0 to 4.0 formed gels with a solid content of 15%.

Therefore, in one embodiment of the invention, at least one ester oil, hydrocarbon oil, and / or silicone oil (or any additional solvent) is preferably less than about 6, ie 0 to about 6 δ._PHas a value. In other embodiments, ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, and / or silicone oils are about 5 or less, or about 4.5 or less, or about 4 or less, or about 3.5 or less δ._PHas a value. In other embodiments, δ of ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, and / or silicone oils._PValues are about 3, 2.5, or less than or equal to about 1. Regarding ester oil, δ_PIs typically between 0 and about 4 (ie less than about 4), more typically between about 0.5 and about 3, and in some embodiments between about 1 and about 2.

Hydrogen bond parameters of at least one ester oil, hydrocarbon oil, and / or silicone oil (or any additional solvent) δ_hIs typically less than about 10, i.e. between 0 and about 10. In other embodiments, δ_hIs between 0 and about 9, between 0 and about 8, between 0 and about 7, and between 0 and about 6. Regarding ester oil, δ_HIs typically between 0 and about 5, and more typically between about 0.5 and about 4, and in some embodiments, δ._HIs between about 1 and about 2 or 3.

In other embodiments, ester oils, hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils (or any additional solvent) typically have a δ between 0 and about 6._pValue and δ between 0 and about 10_hHas a value. More typically, ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, and / or silicone oils have a δ between 0 and about 5._pValue and δ between 0 and about 8 or about 9_hHas a value. More preferred ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, and / or silicone oils are δ between 0 and about 3, 3.5, 4 or about 4.5._pValue and δ between 0 and about 4, 5, 6 or about 7_hHas a value.

However, it should be understood that the present invention is not limited to the use of oils with any particular solubility parameter if the oil is compatible with the polymer and cineresis is limited. Thus, for example, highly polar oils or solvents cannot form gels with ETPEA polymers in large amounts, but can be present in small amounts. Preferably, the oils and solvents that are incompatible with the ETPEA polymer are present in less than about 10% by weight of the composition, preferably less than about 5% by weight of the composition, more preferably less than about 2.5% by weight of the composition. .. Thus, in one embodiment, the compositions of the invention are polar solvents, eg, δ, which is higher than about 6, higher than about 7, or higher than about 8._pIt is substantially free of those having a value, which means that the composition has less than about 1% by weight of such solvent. In addition, as shown in FIG. 2, some solvents solubilize the polymer in 15% by weight and symbol "S" or "S"._pIs indicated by. This does not mean that such solvents are not useful in practicing the present invention, but that more ETPEA polymers are required in the formulation to form a suitable gel network. Preferred compositions typically include up to 15% by weight of ETPEA polymer, while other embodiments have, for example, up to about 20% by weight, 25% by weight, 30% by weight, 35% by weight, or even about 40% by weight. ETPEA polymer, thus providing such solvents and suitable gels. Therefore, δ in the present specification._pAnd δ_hValues are particularly suitable for preferred compositions containing from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight ETPEA polymer.

The oil components typically make up about 0.1% to about 90% by weight of the composition, individually or together. More typically, the total weight of the total oil components (ester oil, hydrocarbon oil, and silicone oil) is about 5% by weight, about 10% by weight, about 15% by weight, about 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition. , About 25% by weight, or about 30% by weight to about 65% by weight, about 70% by weight, about 75% by weight or about 80% by weight. In one embodiment, the oils together are from about 30% to about 70% by weight, preferably from about 40% to about 60% by weight, and in particular the ETPEA polymer is from about 0.5 to about 0.5% by weight of the total composition. 12% by weight. Excellent results are obtained when the total content of the ester oil is about 30-60% by weight, or about 40-50% by weight.

The composition of the present invention may optionally contain one or more colorants such as pigments, dyes, rakes and the like. As used herein, the term "pigment" is intended to include white pigments such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, mica, pearls and the like. If present, the total weight of the total colorant is from about 0.1% to about 30% by weight of the composition, typically from about 1% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 2.5 to about 15% by weight. In a preferred embodiment, it is from about 5 to about 10% by weight. Surprisingly, it has been found that large amounts of pigments, especially mica and pearls, do not significantly reduce the luster of the lip products of the present invention. In some embodiments of the invention, the 85 degree gloss of the lip product is about 0.1-15% by weight, 1-10% by weight, 2-10% by weight, 4-10% by weight, 6-10% by weight, or Within 20% by weight, preferably within 15% by weight, of the 85 degree gloss value of the same composition, except that it does not contain pearl and / or mica, in the presence of 8-10% by weight pearl and / or mica. It is more preferably within 10% by weight, and even more preferably within 5%. The 85 degree gloss value is at least 45, at least 50, at least 55, or at least 60 in some embodiments. More typically, for example, even in the presence of pearl and / or mica components (eg, at least 1% by weight, at least 2% by weight, at least 4% by weight, at least 6% by weight, at least 8% by weight of the mica component. %, Or even at least 10% by weight), the 85 degree gloss value is at least 65, preferably at least 70. Preferred lipsticks exhibit an 85 degree gloss value of 75 or greater, preferably 80 or greater over a 0-15 wt% pearl and mica loading range.

The composition may also include one or more granules, such as, but not limited to, mica, talc, bismuth oxychloride, bentonite, nylon, silica, acrylate copolymers, teflon, spherical silica and the like. Similar results can be obtained with any particulate matter. That is, the glossiness of the composition of the present invention is not substantially reduced by the granularity level in the range of 0-10% by weight. In this regard, "substantially non-reducing" means less than about 20%, preferably 15% of the 85 degree gloss value of the same composition, except that the loss of gloss is in the absence of particulate matter. It is intended to mean less than, more preferably less than 10%, even more preferably less than 5%, preferably at least 75 or greater, preferably 80 or greater.

In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition can provide high gloss when applied to the lips. The term "high gloss" means an 85 degree gloss value higher than about 70, typically higher than about 75, preferably an 85 degree gloss value higher than about 80. Surprisingly, it has been found that lipstick products prepared using the compositions of the present invention can exhibit comparable or even higher luster to conventional wax-free oil-based lip gloss products. .. Therefore, in some embodiments, the 85 degree gloss value of lipstick products containing the compositions of the present invention is greater than about 82, 84, 86, 88, or even 90. It is assumed that the 85 degree gloss value of 95 can be achieved by the lip products of the present invention.

In embodiments where the composition is prepared as a self-supporting stick, the composition has a hardness greater than 40 g (grams). Typically, the composition has a hardness greater than about 50 g, and more typically a hardness greater than about 60 g. Preferably, the composition has a hardness higher than about 70 g, 80 g, 90 g or 100 g. In some embodiments, the hardness of the composition is at least 120 g, 140 g, 160 g, 180 g, or 200 g. In other embodiments, the composition has a hardness of at least 250 g, 300 g, 350 g, or 400 g. However, in a broad sense, the invention is not strictly limited to compositions having any particular hardness. The composition is expected to be useful even when provided as a weak gel or the like. Surprisingly, even relatively hard sticks, such as sticks with a hardness between about 200 g and about 300 g, show excellent "payoff", so that an acceptable amount of product is transferred to the lips when applied to the lips. .. Payoff assessments are well known in the art and can be quantified, for example, by panel testing by experts on a scale from 1 to 10.

In one embodiment, the compositions of the invention provide a unique rheology not available with conventional wax-based lipsticks. Rheology is characterized by the sensation that the lipstick retains a freshly applied feel on the lips over extended use, which means that the lipstick feel remains fat-like for extended periods of time. Traditional wax-based lipsticks feel oily at first when applied, but are known to dry rapidly, especially after the wearer rubs his lips. It is thought that this effect occurs because the wax structure collapses due to shearing caused by rubbing the lips. This effect can be explained as the shear-induced breakdown of the wax matrix.

In contrast to conventional lipsticks, the compositions of the present invention show no shear-induced disintegration of the gel structure or have reduced shear-induced disintegration of the gel structure compared to wax-based lipsticks. As a result, the lipsticks of the present invention retain an oily feel on the lips for extended periods of time. This effect can be quantified with respect to the viscosity of the composition over repeated shear cycles. Typically, the compositions of the invention have a rheology characterized by viscosity at a given shear rate, which spans repeated shear cycles, especially from about 1 typically encountered during use. Approximately 10 sec^-1It remains substantially constant with respect to the shear rate between. That is, the gel network remains elastic and shear does not induce network degradation. In contrast, the wax base of conventional lipsticks undergoes shear-induced degradation, so the wax viscosity decreases with repeated shear cycles. "Relatively constant" means that slight fluctuations in viscosity / shear rate characteristics can be tolerated over multiple shear cycles, with a second shear cycle of about 1 to about 10 seconds.^-1Meaning that each shear rate between will result in a viscosity within ± 3 SD (standard deviation) of the viscosity measured in the first shear cycle. Preferably, the viscosity measured in the second shear cycle is from about 1 to about 10 seconds.^-1Within ± 2SD of the viscosity measured in the first shear cycle at each shear rate between, more preferably ± 1SD.

In some embodiments, the viscosity during the second and third shear cycles is from about 1 to about 10 sec.^-1Within ± 3SD, ± 2SD, or ± 1SD of the viscosity measured in the first shear cycle at each shear rate between.

In some embodiments, the viscosities of the compositions of the invention during the second shear cycle, and preferably during the third shear cycle, are from about 1 to about 5 sec.^-1Shear rates between about 100 Pa · sec and / or during the second shear cycle, and preferably during the third shear cycle, are about 10 to about 50 sec.^-1Shear rates between about 10 Pa · sec and / or during the second shear cycle, and preferably during the third shear cycle, the viscosities of the compositions of the invention are from about 100 to about 500 sec.^-1Shear rate between is higher than about 1 Pa · sec. Here, the second shear cycle follows the first shear cycle for about 1 to about 1000 sec.^-1Covers the shear rate of.

In one embodiment, the composition for imparting a fat-like film to the lips is: (a) It has an average molecular weight of about 0.1 to about 40% by weight, between about 3000 and about 7500 daltons, and a sol-gel transition temperature T._gel(Here, T_gelWith ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymers that can form gels with low-polar and non-polar oils below (above body temperature); (b) T of about 0.1 to about 20% by weight_gelWith a first wax component containing one or more waxes with a higher melting point; (c) T of about 0.1 to about 20% by weight_gelWith a second wax component containing one or more waxes with the following melting points; (e) Sol-gel transition temperature T_gelOne or more low-polar or non-polar oils capable of forming a gel with an ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymer below (the above one or more low-polar or non-polar oils consist of a group consisting of esters, hydrocarbons and silicone oils. (Selected) and including; Here the composition is about 1 to about 10 sec^-1Characterized by the viscosity measured during the second shear cycle, which is within ± 20% of the viscosity measured during the first shear cycle at all shear rates between, the first and second shear cycles are the same. And about 1 to about 1000 sec^-1Includes shear rates that increase up to.

In one variant, the second shear cycle is about 1 to about 10 seconds.^-1Within ± 10% of the viscosity measured during the first shear cycle at all shear rates during. In another variant, the viscosity measured during the second shear cycle is about 1 to about 10 sec.^-1Within ± 5% of the viscosity measured during the first shear cycle at all shear rates during.

In another embodiment, the composition is about 10 to about 100 sec.^-1Characterized by the viscosity measured during the second shear cycle, which is within ± 20% of the viscosity measured during the first shear cycle at all shear rates during. In another variant of this embodiment, the viscosity measurements during the second shear cycle are from about 10 to about 100 sec.^-1Within ± 10% of the viscosity measured during the first shear cycle at all shear rates during. In another variant, the viscosity measured during the second shear cycle is about 10 to about 100 sec.^-1Within ± 5% of the viscosity measured during the first shear cycle at all shear rates during.

In yet another embodiment, the viscosity measured during the second shear cycle is from about 1 to about 100 sec.^-1± 20% of the viscosity measured during the first shear cycle at all shear rates during. In one variant of this embodiment, the viscosity measured during the second shear cycle is from about 1 to about 100 sec.^-1Within ± 10% of the viscosity measured during the first shear cycle at all shear rates during. Preferably, the viscosity measured during the second shear cycle is from about 1 to about 100 sec.^-1Within ± 5% of the viscosity measured during the first shear cycle at all shear rates during.

The composition that imparts the fat-like film to the lips is measured during the first shear cycle for about 1 sec.^-1It is further characterized by viscosities higher than about 50, 75, or about 100 Pa · sec at shear rates of. Preferably, the composition is measured for about 1 sec during both the first and second shear cycles.^-1Characterized by viscosities higher than about 50, 75, or about 100 Pa · sec at shear rates of. In one variant, the composition is measured during the first shear cycle, preferably the first and second shear cycles, from about 1 to about 5 sec.^-1Shear rates up to, characterized by viscosities greater than about 50, 75, or about 100 Pa · sec.

The preferred composition is about 10 seconds measured during the first shear cycle.^-1Characterized by viscosities greater than about 5, 7.5, or about 10 Pa · sec at shear rates of about 10 sec, preferably measured during the first and second shear cycles.^-1Has a viscosity higher than about 5, 7.5, or about 10 Pa · sec at the shear rate of. More preferred compositions are measured during the first shear cycle, preferably between the first and second shear cycles, for about 10 to about 50 seconds.^-1Characterized by viscosities higher than about 5, 7.5, or about 10 Pa · sec at shear rates up to.

In other embodiments, the composition is measured during the first shear cycle for about 100 sec.^-1Further characterized by viscosities greater than about 0.5, 0.75, or about 1 Pa · sec at shear rates of about 100 sec, preferably measured during the first and second shear cycles.^-1Has a viscosity greater than about 0.5, 0.75, or about 1 at the shear rate of.

Alternatively, rheology scales from 0 to 10 based on parameters such as slipperiness, feel, oiliness, moisture, and / or dryness over wear periods that include, for example, 15 minutes, 30 minutes, 45 minutes, and 1 hour. It can be quantified by an expert panel test at.

The selection and amount of ETPEA polymers, waxes, oils, silicone T resins, etc. described herein are compositions for imparting high gloss and compositions with improved rheology described herein. Equally applicable to both. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the lip composition exhibits both high gloss and improved rheology.

The compositions of the present invention may further comprise one or more film-forming materials and polymers. Fluorinated polymers, such as those having the INCI name polyperfluoromethylisopropyl ether, are particularly useful for altering the slipperiness and feel of the composition. The preferred fluorinated polymer is supplied by Solvay Solexis under the trade name FOMBLIN HC. Sucrose acetate isobutyrate (INCI) supplied by Eastman Chemical and glycerol rosinate (INCI) sold by Arizona Chemical under the trade name SylvaGum RE85K are preferred film-forming materials.

Various fillers can be incorporated into the composition. Suitable fillers include, without limitation, silica, treated silica, talc, zinc stearate, mica, kaolin, nylon powders such as Orgasol , polyethylene powder, Teflon starch, boron nitride, copolymer microbeads, eg. Examples include Expancel (Nobel Industries), Polytrap (Dow Corning) and Nylon Resin Microbeads (Tospearl from Toshiba).

Additional pigments / powder fillers include, but are not limited to, inorganic powders such as rubber, chalk, fuller soil, kaolin, silk mica, white mica, gold mica, synthetic mica, scale mica, black mica, lithia mica, vermiculite. , Aluminum silicate, starch, smectite clay, alkyl and / or trialkylarylammonium smectite, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate, organically modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminum silicate, fuming aluminum starch Octenyl succinate barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, silica alumina, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (baked gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluorine apatite, hydroxyapatite, Ceramic powders, metal shavings (zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, zinc myristate, calcium palmitate, and aluminum stearate), colloidal silicon dioxide, and boron nitride; organic powders, such as polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), Cyclodextrin, methylpolymethacrylate powders, styrene and silicic acid copolymer powders, benzoguanamine resin powders, poly (ethylene tetrafluoride) powders, and carboxyvinyl polymers, cellulose powders such as hydroxyethyl cellulose and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, ethylene glycol monostearate. Inorganic white pigments such as magnesium oxide. Other useful powders are disclosed in Patent Document 10 (the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference).

The compositions of the present invention typically contain one or more colorants. Suitable colorants, such as pigments, lakes, and dyes, are well known in the art and are disclosed in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 1st Edition, 1988, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. .. Organic pigments include, for example, FD &amp; C dyes, D &amp; C dyes, such as D &amp; C red, No. 2, 5, 6, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, 30 and 34, D &amp; C yellow No. 5, blue No. 1, Violet No. 2 can be mentioned. Examples of inorganic pigments include, but are not limited to, metal oxides and metal hydroxides such as magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium oxide, calcium hydroxide, aluminum oxide, aluminum hydroxide, iron oxide (α-Fe).₂O₃, Y-Fe₂O₃, Fe₃O₄, FeO), red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, iron hydroxide, titanium dioxide, lower titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, manganese oxide, cobalt oxide, cerium oxide, nickel oxide, and Zinc oxide and composite oxides and hydroxides, such as iron titanate, cobalt titanate and cobalt aluminate. Other suitable colorants include Ultramarine Blue (ie, sulfur-containing sodium aluminum silicate), Prussian Blue, Manganese Violet, Bismuth Oxychloride, Talc, Mica, Silk Mica, Magnesium Carbonate, Calcium Carbonate, Magnesium Silica, Examples thereof include magnesium aluminum silicate, silica, mica titanate, titanium oxide mica oxide, and bismuth oxychloride. The colorant modifies the surface with, for example, a fluoropolymer to provide one or more properties of the colorant described in, for example, Patent Document 11, Patent Document 12, and Patent Document 13 (the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference). Can be adjusted. Suitable pearling pigments include, without limitation, bismuth oxychloride, guanine and titanium dioxide, lower titanium oxide or titanium oxynitride as disclosed in Patent Document 14 (the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference). Examples thereof include a titanium composite material containing the above as a titanium component. The composition may also include cosmetically acceptable glitter, such as metal particles or solid organic particles, such as those described in Patent Document 15 (whose content is incorporated herein by reference).

The compositions of the present invention may further comprise a cosmetic vehicle, such as an unlimited linear and cyclic volatile silicone, such as those available under the trade names Dow Corning 244, 245, 344, and 200 from Dow Corning Corporation. Examples of these liquids include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, or mixtures thereof. Branched volatile silicones commercially available from Shinetsu may also be useful. Water-soluble vehicles such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyglycerol diisostearate, dimethylsiloxane / glycol copolymer, isopropylmillistate, triisostearylcitrate, etc. may also be present. The weight percentage of the vehicle, excluding ester oils, silicone oils, and hydrocarbon oils capable of forming gels with ETPEA polymers, is typically less than about 10% by weight of the composition, and more typically less than about 5% by weight. It is preferably less than about 1% by weight.

The compositions of the invention are optionally other active and inactive ingredients typically associated with cosmetic and personal care products, such as, but not limited to, excipients, fillers, emulsifiers, antioxidants, surfactants. , Film-forming substances, chelating agents, gelling agents, thickeners, skin softeners, moisturizers, moisturizers, vitamins, minerals, viscosity and / or rheology improvers, sunscreens, keratolytic agents, depigmenting agents, Retinoids, hormonal compounds, alpha-hydroxy acids, alpha-ketoic acids, anti-antibacterial agents, antifungal agents, antibacterial agents, antiviral agents, analgesics, lipid compounds, antiallergic agents, H1 or H2 antihistamines, anti-inflammatory agents , Antistimulants, antitumor agents, immune system boosters, immune system inhibitors, acne suppressants, anesthetics, disinfectants, insect repellents, skin cooling compounds, skin protectants, skin penetration enhancers, exfoliants, lubrications It may contain agents, fragrances, colorants, dyes, depigmenting agents, hypopigmenting agents, preservatives, stabilizers, agents, light stabilizers, and mixtures thereof. In addition to the above, the compounds of the present invention may include other compounds for the treatment of skin disorders.

<p> High gloss lipstick Table 2 shows ETPEA gelling agent Sylvaclear® C75V (Arizona Chemicals), high melting point wax component (microcrystalline petroleum wax and linear polyethylene), low melting point wax component (ozokelite), high refractive index silicone T resin co-gelling. Provided are high gloss lipsticks containing agents as well as various low polar ester oils.</p><p><tables num="2"><img file="JP2010513541A_D0005.tif" /></tables></p><p> A product was prepared by mixing the components in Table 2 at 100 ° or higher until all of the wax components were melted. The molten mixture was poured into a mold and allowed to solidify. The product obtained was a self-supporting solid with physical rigidity comparable to that of conventional lipsticks.</p><p> Specular reflection from the lipstick film was measured at 85 degrees using a gloss meter. The average of multiple measurements is 87, which far exceeds the luster of traditional wax-based lipsticks and surprisingly outperforms the luster of some liquid lip gloss products and two-coated high-gloss lip products. .. Figure 1 compares the 85 degree gloss of the lipsticks in Table 2 with some traditional lip products. In Figure 1, "A" represents the lipstick in Table 2, and the remaining lip products are: B = Glazewear Liquid Lip Gloss (Avon Products); C = Color Rich (Shade) 1) (Avon Products); D = Color Rich (Shade 2) (Avon Products); E = Butter Shine (Clinique); F = Ultra Color Rich (Shade 1) (Avon Products) G = Ultra Color Rich (Shade 2) (Avon Products); H = Moisture Extreme (Maybelline); I = Shine Supreme (Avon Products); = Color Riche (L'Oreal); K = Wet Shine (Shade 1) (Maybelline); L = Wet Shine (Shade 2) (Maybelline); M = Brilliant Moisture (Shade 1) (Avon Products); N = Brilliant Moisture (Shade 2) (Avon Products); O is transparent and highly glossy Represents a type of two-stage lip product that includes a top coat.</p><p> In particular, the 85 degree gloss value of the lipsticks in Table 2 is not only superior to traditional wax-based lipsticks (CN), but also the traditional state-of-the-art liquid lip gloss (B) to provide high gloss. ) And better than two-stage lip products.</p>

<p> The effect of increasing pearl and mica content on the 85 degree luster of lip products was investigated. Four samples of the lipstick of the invention were prepared with pearl and mica content ranging from 0% to 10% by weight. The formulations of the four samples are listed in Table 3.</p><p><tables num="3"><img file="JP2010513541A_D0006.tif" /></tables></p><p> As shown in Table 4, the gloss of the lipsticks of the present invention was compared to conventional wax-based lipsticks with pearl and mica content ranging from 2% to about 10% by weight.</p><p><tables num="4"><img file="JP2010513541A_D0007.tif" /></tables></p><p> Figure 3 shows 85 ° gloss for four ETPEA gel-based lipsticks (indicated by data point ) and four samples of wax-based lipstick (indicated by data point ) at various pearl and mica loadings. To compare. The gloss does not decrease significantly over the range of 0-10% by weight for the ETPEA gel-based formulation of the present invention and remains very high, i.e. higher than 80 in all cases, while in conventional wax-based lipsticks The fact that 85 degree luster is substantially reduced (more than about 50%) over 2 to about 10% by weight mica and pearl loading is quite clear. The data corresponding to Fig. 3 is shown in Table 5 below.</p><p><tables num="5"><img file="JP2010513541A_D0008.tif" /></tables></p><p> Moreover, conventional wax-based formulations are less glossy than the lipsticks of the present invention over the entire range of pearl and mica loadings. Therefore, one surprising advantage of the compositions of the present invention is that it allows the compounder to include large amounts of pearling agents without compromising gloss. "Large amount" means at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 7.5% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight or at least 12% by weight.</p>

<p> Formulation parameters that provide the hardness of the ETPEA gel were devised using the various lipstick formulations shown in Table 6. The hardness of each lipstick was measured with a Texture Analyzer Model QTS-25 equipped with a 4 mm stainless steel probe (TA-24). As the data in Table 6 show, gel hardness is the result of complex interactions between ETPEA, wax, silicone T resin, oil, and pigment / pearl content in lipsticks. In each case, the formulations in Table 6 are expressed as weight percent of the total formulation, so the ester oil content varies slightly between samples to control the increase or decrease in ETPEA, silicone T resin, wax, and pigment / pearl components. .. Nevertheless, a general trend is observed for the effects of ETPEA, wax, silicone T resin, oil, and pigment / pearl content in changing lipsticks.</p><p><tables num="6"><img file="JP2010513541A_D0009.tif" /></tables></p><p> For example, Samples 1 and 2 contain the same amount of wax, ETPEA polymer, and silicone T resin, but differ primarily in the weight percent of pigments and pearls (15.25% vs. 6.03%). However, no significant loss of hardness was observed (204 g vs. 201 g).</p><p> Samples 2 and 3 contain the same weight percent of wax, silicone T resin, and pigment / pearl, but the amount of ETPEA gelling agent varies from 1% (Sample 2) to 5.9% (Sample 3). The corresponding hardness is observed to decrease from 201 g at 1% ETPEA to 62% at 5.9% ETPEA as the ETPEA polymer increases. The hardness of the latter is only slightly higher than the hardness threshold (40 g) for making suitable self-supporting sticks. The loss of hardness in Sample 3 is likely to be the result of an increase in the ratio of the ETPEA polymer to the ester oil from about 1:52 in Sample 2 to about 1: 8 in Sample 3. Therefore, preferred gels typically have an ETPEA polymer weight ratio of less than 1: 8 to ester oil, especially in embodiments where the amount of co-gelling agent for silicone T resin is from about 5.5 to about 6.5% by weight, eg 5.9% by weight. It is said that it is less than 1:10, preferably less than 1:15, more preferably less than 1:20, and even more preferably less than 1:30. In embodiments, the ratio of ETPEA polymer to ester oil is less than 1:40 or less than 1:50. Of course, the ratio of ETPEA polymer to oil is limited by the fact that at the bottom, the amount of oil is so high that it solubilizes the polymer rather than forming a gel. At the top of the ratio, gels of suitable hardness are obtained with a weight ratio of ETPEA polymer to ester oil of about 1: 1.3 or less (Samples 8 and 9). However, suitable adjustments to other functional ingredients shall be made.</p><p> Samples 6 and 7 show the effect of increased ETPEA content in formulations with lower silicone T resin content than in Samples 2 and 3. In Samples 6 and 7, the silicone T resin content is 2% by weight compared to 5.9% by weight in Samples 2 and 3. For Samples 2 and 3, it was also found that the hardness of the gel decreased from 109 g (Sample 7) at 4.9% to 43 g (Sample 6) at 12% as the ETPEA content increased. The hardness value of the latter is only slightly above the hardness threshold of 40 g for making self-supporting solid sticks. The weight ratio of the ETPEA polymer to the ester oil is about 1: 3.75 in sample 6 and about 1:10 in sample 7. Again, it was found that even a low silicone T resin content of 2% by weight resulted in a suitable gel with a ratio of 1:10 ETPEA polymer to ester oil. At a ratio of 1: 3.75, the gel showed less desirable hardness, but was higher than the 40 g hardness cutoff. Thus, in embodiments comprising small amounts, i.e. less than about 5% by weight, particularly less than about 3% by weight of silicone T resin, suitable gels have a ratio of ETPEA to less than about 1: 3.75, more typically less than about 1: 3.75. Is obtained in less than about 1: 4, preferably less than about 1:10.</p><p> Between Samples 4 and 5, it is generally observed that the hardness of the gel improves with increasing wax content with the same weight percent of ETPEA, silicone T resin, and pigment / pearl. These samples have a total wax content in the range of 6.85% to 9.6% as the hardness increases corresponding to 117 g to 174 g. This result is not surprising, as the waxy ingredients are known to provide hardness in traditional wax-based lipsticks. However, in the preferred practice of the present invention, it is desirable that the wax content does not exceed 12% by weight, as the wax reduces the luster of the product.</p><p> Sample 10 provides a very solid gel (413 g) made with a very low ETPEA polymer content (0.88 wt%). The ratio of EPTEA gelling agent to ester oil is 1:50. The remarkable hardness of this gel is partly due to the high content of the silicone T resin gelling agent.</p><p> As is clear from Table 6, gels of suitable hardness can be obtained over a wide range of ETPEA, waxes, oils, silicone T resins, and pigment / pearl contents. In embodiments where the composition is prepared as a self-supporting stick, the composition has a hardness greater than 40 g. Typically, the composition has a hardness greater than about 50 g, and more typically a hardness greater than about 60 g. Preferably, the composition has a hardness greater than about 70 g, 80 g, 90 g, or 100 g. In some embodiments, the hardness of the composition is at least 120 g, 140 g, 160 g, 180 g, or 200 g. In other embodiments, the composition has a hardness of at least 250 g, 300 g, 350 g, or 400 g.</p>

<p> In one embodiment, the compositions of the present invention provide a unique rheology not available with conventional wax-based lipsticks. This rheology is characterized by the sensation that the lipstick retains a fresh feel on the lips over a long period of wear. This example quantifies a unique rheology based on viscosity measurements over repeated shear cycles.</p><p> The conventional wax-based lipsticks examined in this example have the formulations listed in Table 7.</p><p><tables num="7"><img file="JP2010513541A_D0010.tif" /></tables></p><p> The ETPEA gel-based lipstick of the present invention used in this example has the formulations shown in Table 8.</p><p><tables num="8"><img file="JP2010513541A_D0011.tif" /></tables></p><p> FIG. 4 shows the viscosity of a conventional wax-based lipstick over the first shear cycle () and the second shear cycle (). As is clear, the viscosity of the composition is a function of the shear rate, so the viscosity of the composition decreases during the first shear cycle over the entire range of shear rates. In particular, during the second shear cycle, the composition does not retain the initial viscosity achieved at the beginning of the first shear cycle. Rather, it is observed that the viscosity drops from less than 10 Pa · sec at the beginning of the second shear cycle to less than 1 Pa · sec at the end of the second shear cycle. The viscosity loss seen throughout the second shear cycle is the result of the decomposition of the wax structure during the first shear cycle.</p><p> FIG. 5 shows the viscosity of the lipstick of the present invention over the first shear cycle () and the second shear cycle (). The viscosities over the first and second shear cycles remain approximately the same over the entire range of shear rates. There is some deflection during the second shear cycle at very high shear rates, which is 1 to 10 seconds, which corresponds to the shear rate typically encountered during wear.^-1Minimal over the shear rate range of. The resistance to this shear-induced degradation is believed to be derived from the elasticity of the gel such that hydrogen bonds break and regulate shear, reforming and restoring the gel network when shear is released.</p><p> It has been found that the lipsticks of the present invention shown in FIG. 5 have an oily moist feel when first applied and retain this feel throughout the cycle of repeated rubbing of the lips over an extended period of time.</p><p> All patents and patent publications referred to herein are incorporated herein by reference.</p><p> After reading the above description, those skilled in the art will come up with corrections and improvements. All such amendments and improvements have been removed herein for the sake of brevity and readability, but are understood to be well within the scope of the claims.</p>