Method and apparatus for making shoes.

MEMORY? -MOD, 8834

Sheet no. one

The invention relates to a device for the manufacture of footwear,

The manufacture of shoes with bark soles now comprises approximately seventeen work phases.

In first place, the template is stitched, then the buttress is molded, the last is added and the point is put on.

After activation, the sides and finally the heel b1. In separate work phases, the floor and sides are perched, and then cemented to the floor and sides. Now cement has to be activated and the crust sole placed, then pressed and the gluing surfaces are dried. Finally the shoe is shaped, the cuts are cleaned, the shoe receives the finish and the cover sole fits.

In the known manufacturing mode just described, which has numerous work phases, the part of the production costs corresponding to the ruano gives »

• · · · work is high. Another disadvantage in classic shoe making is that the corresponding leather part a-1 is assembled relatively high, with approximately 30% of the upper part being used. Because the use of *

Leather has not only increased in the footwear industry, but also has been increasingly used excellently. • • • •

TO · ·

In the automotive industry and in the manufacture of upholstery, but the production of raw leather has not increased in the same proportion, there is a need for non-standard procedures. manufacture for shoes in which dBl fitted fold can be dispensed.

There have been attempts in the past to manufacture shoes without a crease mounted. So, for example the DE-OS

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60 249 shows a procedure in which the sole is peeled directly to the instep. To do this, the rod is completely formed first and before the sole is stuck. The cane is then mounted on a formed mold which acts as an upper part of a injection mold and is fixed by means of fastening elements and is placed tightly inside a mold of the sole configured as the lower part of the injection mold. For the fixation of the rod to the sole, a rim of the rod corresponding to the edge of the rod is necessary, so that the desired saving of the skin does not occur. The manufacturing of the sole also requires a so-called injection mold, which is normally not divided and therefore can not be used to extend the cane to the desired size.

DE-AS 23 42 304 shows another attempt to manufacture shoes without a template. The area of, the tip conforms

I · · · here by means of a suitable cut of the leather and the subsequent co. The tip of the shoe thus receives a little / attractive shape. The rod must also be fixed in the area of ​​the spike and the heel of the last with the help of nails. However, these obstacles interfere with the removal of the last and / or damage to the lining of the hands, but also on the 3 <3> 3

I 'a · ·

I · · «· leather. In addition, the spatial shape of the tip limits cg * n^,s »ideI · · · rablamente the design freedom of the modeler.

According to the DE-OS 26 18 183, the dBbe empella segue and sometimes sew to a high edge of the cane gives the sole. However, there is no indication as to how it could be fixed to the slip sole, and especially in the area of ​​the tip of the shoe, the leather grip

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P ^ IBOD. 8834 cially flat of a shoe or boot. This procedure is therefore suitable in the best case for the manufacture of strap sandals.

DE-OS 23 06 129 shows a method and a device for pre-shaping dB the full length of the shoe. For this, the stiffener receives with final formation of an adjustable mold pressure of two parts, while the puntara only receives the prior confo.r, mation so that joins the leather is pre stop for subsequent process aparado.

The present invention seeks to solve the prohibition of presenting a device for the manufacture of footwear of the type indicated at the outset, which works without folding and without assembly processes, the remaining working processes being carried out in the most mechanized and feasible manner. partially even automatically, so that the finished shoe does not differ however .de. yjn

*. · · Γ Running shoe neither in its appearance nor in its solidity.

This problem is solved by the characteristics *. · * · · Determining factors dB of claim 1§.

This gives you the advantage of being able to save approx. 30% of the material gives the uppers and gives qua • · * ··· * The number of work phases is considerably megoj?., a · ·

FZ * sa Reduca qua so drastically, Adamas gives partg da '' · z * · costs related to the material gives manufacturing, also corresponding to the split hand gives work.

To increase the strength of the joint between the sole and the cane, and according to an advantageous development of the invention, an additional seam is required. This seam can be configured at the same time as an ornament seam.

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Conforms to a spatial development of the invention after gluing cane bark and sole gives the shoe can be treated with steam at overpressure, after getting into the mold, dried and re-draw from the last. Steam treatment of footwear is recommended especially in leather shoes, which by this final treatment receive their final form corresponding to the last. Due to the fact that only lasts are necessary during this last elaboration phase, their number can be reduced considerably, with which an additional effect of rationalization is achieved.

It is also possible to stick the covering sole with the bark sole.

As already mentioned, with the device according to the invention it cooperates with the manufacture being developed in a largely mechanized or automatic way. For the realization of the invention, therefore, there is also a need for a series of positive ones, which are used in each of the manufacturing phases and guarantee the efficient and qualitatively correct manufacture of footwear. .

The device that provides the most important savings and at the same time greater is the machine with the qjjg ** Be taut to the measure the cane prepared in the area of ​​the tip w · ♦ * following the last. This device includes two molda§

W fc * partial corresponding to its contour to the last, on which can be placed the cane previously formed on the tip. A piece of clamping shape against the tip compresses the previously formed rod in the tip against the front partial mold, with which the leather is fixed without the possibility of displacement, but it leaves free the

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KIOD 8834 cemented embroidery gives the cane. With the help of a sledgehammer, it presses against the heel and tightens the area of ​​the cane, so that at the same time the buttress is compressed and shaped. Here, too, is the box cemented by the cane. Other pieces give shape apriata finally serve, after the placement gives the sole pra corte stop over the rod tensioned and fixed, tighten the paid surfaces and thus get a correct bonding. The partial molds and the clamping pieces can be heated.

According to an advantageous development, the partial molds with which the cane is stretched, and the piazas give foj? When tightening, the shank is fixed and the gluing surfaces are tightened, they act pneumatically. The manual phases of work still consist only in the placement of the cane, the placement of the sue.Ade bark and the removal of the shoe stuck. · .. * »*

With the aid of the drawing the devices according to the invention necessary for their realization are explained. tran

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The sole gives the cutter including the device used for this and fig. 6 ol prepared and sewn shoe, including

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240286 sewing machine used in it.

In fig. 1 a prepared and basted shank 1 is prepared, on whose lower edge a rim 2 is provided. The surface of the assembled rim 2 comprises approximately 30% of the total material of the upper part.

Fig. 2 shows a reed 3 without a fold, as used in the manufacture according to the invention.

Fig. 3 shows the shank of the shank 3 in the area of ​​the outer rim 4 with the help of a machine for the sagging of instep edges, of which only the squeegee tool 11 is shown. The edge 4 can be hooked in any width and adapted in each case at the penetration depth of the prefabricated bark outsole.

Fig. 4 shows the shank 3 with perched edge 4 and a preformed tip 5. To form the tip, the stitched cane must be subjected to a deformation by extension * · · * 4 enormously strong, especially when it is made of leather, in order to obtain, even with possible tippers of rBfusrrzi3, its shape according to the last, which also retains later in the situation outside the last. This happens in shoes that are usually removed in the first place in the process. • V * • 4 · * of the frame, pulling the mounted fold. 5in, "gm • * · z * * bargo, because in the method according to the invention the edge of apara and thus also the process of aparar disappear, the cane must first be formed defi nitivamenta an its tipped area almost the last before being joined with the sole.

The pre-shaping of the tip is done

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Hoj »no. γ n a spatial machine gives tip shape, which for example has a top mold, a bottom and a central mold, whose contours correspond to the contour of the last. These molds are covered by friction resistant material, which has a certain elasticity and with it allows a compensation of different thicknesses of leather.

Fig. 5 shows the most important phase of the manufacture, as well as (in schematic representation) the device used for this. A front and a rear partial mold 21, 22 are recognized, on which the preformed channel 3 is placed. With the help of a piece 23 in the form of a tightening of the tip, the shank 3 is fixed to the front partial mold 21 in the area of ​​the tip. The two partial molds 21, 22 are separated one from the other mechanically, especially pneumatically, and thereby the rod is stretched to its final length. The contour of the two partial molds 21, 22 corresponds to the outline of the shoe *, here.

The shank 3 is tightened and fixed in the heel zon ^ / with the help of a piece 24 of heel tightening. At the same time the strong contraction is withdrawn and compressed. In order to activate the abutment, the rear mold 22 or the clamping piece 24 can be heated. · * · *

: t »

The parts 23 and 24 of tip and bead tightening shape are configured in such a way that the cemented board 4^Z from reed 3 is free. On this edge 4 * the prepared bark sole 6 is mounted. Mechanical or pneumatic also advances other pieces of tightening form 25, 26 and tighten the zone 8 of the tip or? -MOD.

8834

Hoju no. θ the zone 9 of the heel gives the sole of bark 6 against the partial moxies 21, 22 and thus produce the union paid between the rod 3 and the sole 6.

Once the pieces have been removed, the sherds form 23 to 26, and once the partial molds 21, 22 are loosened, the shoe can be removed from the machine.

Fig. 6 shows the shoe 10 formed by the soft cut 6 and the cane 3. To ensure additional weight the union paid enters the sole of cut 6 and channel 3, sa ha. made a seam 28 with a sewing machine 27

After the paid and eventual sewing, the shoe is treated with steam in a pressure chamber not represented, so that the leather passes a little time to be flexible and moldabla. Now he places a shoe last treated with steam. The shoe overlays the shape as it is taken out on a device taken out, taking the case for its_tdefinitive This form also maintains a vacuum by removing the last.

The last phases of the work consist of an.compl · · ·.

·&gt; · ⁵ Go to finish and enter or pay for a covering sole.

· &lt;-&gt; ·

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