Antiperspirant product based on microemulsions

ES 2 298 428 T3

DESCRIPTION

Antiperspirant product based on microemulsions.

The present invention relates to a deodorant cosmetic product consisting of a container and applicator and a fluid microemulsion of the oil-in-water type with a high content of antiperspirant salt, and which can be applied uniformly by means of a spray pump.

Human skin has two to three million sweat glands that work day and night to transport moisture to the surface of the skin, thus preventing the body from overheating. Sweat evaporation provides the necessary cooling.

In normal cases, 0.5 to 1 liter of sweat is produced daily. In case of physical effort and increased metabolism, the amount of sweat produced can multiply this figure. During human development, two types of sweat glands are formed. From birth, men only have eccrine sweat glands (small sweat glands), but at the beginning of puberty apocrine sweat glands (large sweat glands) are formed, especially in the armpits and in the anal and genital area. Only these, in combination with bacteria on the skin that break down odorless sweat, produce the usual unpleasant odors. The smell of sweat is specific to the person and its intensity is different for each man. In most people, simple washing only achieves a brief improvement, which is often insufficient without the use of deodorant active ingredients.

To achieve a deodorant effect there are different ways, which are normally used in combination.

The use of antiperspirants that prevent the production of sweat by blocking the orifices of the sweat glands has been known for a long time. In this case, aluminum and aluminum / zirconium salts are generally used. According to the most recent knowledge, the lower production of sweat has no consequence in the organism, since the “cooling effect” takes place mainly through the “sweat” of the other parts of the skin (eccrine glands).

The inhibition of bacterial growth by bacteriostatic agents in the areas of the skin provided with apocrine sweat glands is not harmless and in part causes severe irritations and allergic reactions.

Alcohol (ethanol), which is contained in many common deodorants, also serves as a bactericide. In such a case side effects are also frequent.

To mask the smell of sweat, deodorant preparations usually contain aromatic substances or perfumes. These also act in part as bacteriostats, but in many users they have side effects similar to bacteriostatic agents.

Seeing the previously described mode of action and its side effects, there is a great effort to develop deodorant products that do not cause any side effects. Therefore, there is a clear tendency to develop combination products whose deodorant or antiperspirant action is accompanied by a skin care effect.

These mild deodorants, based on O / W emulsions, are already on the market, but their use, that is, application to the skin, still leaves much to be desired.

As a mode of use for antiperspirants, many users prefer the product form called a pump spray, because the packaged product can be applied finely divided into the axillary region, without having to touch it with the fingers. Also, compared to aerosols, they have the ecological advantage that the pump sprayers work without the use of propellants (liquefied gases). Transparent and translucent products are preferred by many users, mostly for aesthetic reasons. To date, the combination of this characteristic with the aim of having very effective antiperspirant products was only possible through hydroalcoholic recipes. These formulations practically only consist of water and alcohol as the medium, of deodorant and antiperspirant agents as active substances, and also of perfumes, solubilizers and thickeners (almost always carbohydrates) as additives. They give the user a feeling of freshness, but at the same time they have a number of defects. The application, especially on freshly shaved skin, may be incompatible due to the alcohol content. Another major drawback is that these systems do not allow the incorporation of high amounts of oil. The high content of antiperspirant salt, necessary to provide great effectiveness, leaves after application a white residue on the skin that is very annoying for the user and that cannot be covered due to the absence for technological reasons of a sufficiently large organic phase . Furthermore, the use of thickeners based on carbohydrates produces a certain stickiness of the product after evaporation of the alcohol. In summary it can be said that hydroalcoholic recipes are not suitable as a basis for the incorporation of large amounts of antiperspirant agents (aluminum or aluminum / zirconium complexes).

The solution to all these inconveniences took a long time. Only recently, there are also interesting, transparent and alcohol-free cosmetic products, which are based on so-called microemulsions. Are

ES 2 298 428 T3 have the great advantage that they allow greater amounts of various oils to be incorporated in a stable manner, with all the positive effects described above for the user. In principle, formulations of this style are affordable through phase inversion temperature technology (PIT) or high pressure homogenization. However, the stability required by the emulsifier system for high concentrations of antiperspirant salts places great demands on the formulation capacity of the technician in charge of developing the products.

The use of microemulsions in the cosmetic sector is fully described in patent EP0814752.

As a mode of use for antiperspirants, many users prefer the product form called a pump spray, because the packaged product can be applied finely divided into the axillary region, without having to touch it with the fingers. Also, compared to aerosols, they have the ecological advantage that the pump sprayers work without the use of propellants (liquefied gases). However, with spray pumps neither a uniform drop size nor a regular type of spraying can be achieved, since many formulations with a high content of antiperspirants, especially those based on hydroalcoholic, tend to crystallize if the spray is not used at all. often and there is a great risk of clogging the nozzle, preventing the product from coming out. On the other hand, as a result of too thick drops the formulation drips (dripping effect) and this produces an unpleasantly wet and unpleasant feeling.

Therefore the object of the present invention is to expand the technical state and remedy its drawbacks.

The atomizer

The use of spray pumps with a high ratio of pre-compression to amount discharged has surprisingly been shown to produce a conical spray with fine uniform droplets. This ensures a selective application to the armpit and prevents confluence into large, dripping droplets.

Using the atomizer of the present invention, by operating the spray pump the liquid is pressurized and "pre-compressed" in a cylindrical chamber by lowering a plunger. When the pre-compression reaches a value of approximately 0.7 MPa a valve of the pump opens and the liquid can flow towards the nozzle. The liquid is pushed through two or more radial swirl channels into a cylindrical nozzle opening and after passing through it is sprayed.

By pre-compression is meant the pressure that must be established to open the valve to the outside and spray the contents through the nozzle. As these are gas-free systems, compression should not be related to a change in volume, but rather to a dynamic pressure increase. Turbulence channels transform the liquid stream into a rotational motion around the axis of the stream.

Clogging of the nozzle is avoided with a higher initial pressure - compared to normal spray pumps - to propel the packaged product through the outlet nozzle, and with the special combination of low-volatile ingredients in the preparation. This also allows the use of the emulsion formulations described below, because crystals, residues and encrustations that may form in the area of ​​the nozzle are expelled by the high spray pressure.

The shape of the spray pattern does not change during the entire atomization process - the duration of which is determined by the time it takes for the plunger to descend - as the valve described above acts as an overpressure valve and only opens for adequate pre-compression, thanks to which the spray pressure does not vary during all this time.

The atomizers of the present invention have a very low actuation force and, compared to normal atomizers, small spray volumes. Due to its fine and uniform spray pattern, the small atomized volume is more effective than that of conventional sprayers.

Formulations

Surprisingly, as base formulation for the above-mentioned purposes, microemulsions of the oil-in-water type, which

- contain an organic phase and an aqueous phase

- They carry:

one or more polyethoxylated O / W emulsifiers and / or one or more polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers and / or one or more polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers,

- in addition, if desired, one or more W / O emulsifiers,

ES 2 298 428 T3

- an emulsifier content of less than 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion,

- an antiperspirant content of 5 to 40% by weight, especially 7 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion,

- They can be obtained by heating a mixture of the basic components - including aqueous phase, organic phase, one or more O / W emulsifiers according to the present invention and if desired other additives, auxiliary and / or active substances - at a temperature within the range of phase inversion temperature or higher and then cooling it to room temperature, as described in patent EP0814752.

The microemulsions of the present invention have a low viscosity, are sprayable, preferably suitable as a vehicle for various active substances, especially of the lipid type, and are also characterized by excellent compatibility with the skin and mucous membranes.

Except for water and flavorings, all the ingredients of the microemulsion according to the present invention are not very volatile, that is, in their pure state they have a low vapor pressure at 25 ° C, thereby avoiding drying and the formation of crystals. during regular use of the atomizer.

According to the present invention, it is advantageous for the organic phase of the oil-in-water emulsion to have a droplet size of less than 100 nm.

The polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated O / W emulsifier (s) and the polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifier (s) are advantageously chosen from the group consisting of

- ethoxylated fatty alcohols of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH₂-OR-)_n-H, where R is a branched or linear alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 50;

- ethoxylated lanolin alcohols;

- polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO - (- CH₂ -CH₂-OR-)_n-R ', where R and R', independently of one another, comprise branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n a number from 10 to 80;

- ethoxylated fatty acids of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH₂-OR-)_n-H, where R represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n a number from 10 to 40;

- ethoxylated fatty acid ethers of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH₂-OR-)_n-R ', where R and R', independently of one another, represent branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n a number from 10 to 80;

- ethoxylated fatty acid esters of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH₂-OR-)_n-C (O) -R ', where R and R', independently of one another, represent branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n a number from 10 to 80;

- esters of polyethylene glycolglycerol with saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids, branched or linear, and a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 50;

- ethoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of ethoxylation of 3 to 100;

- ethoxylated cholesterols with a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 50;

- ethoxylated triglycerides with a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 150;

- the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH₂-OR-)_n-CH₂-COOH or its cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, where R represents a branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radical of 5-30 C atoms and n a number of 5 to 30;

polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters with fatty acids, based on branched or linear alkanoacids or alkenoacids, with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100, for example of the Sorbeth type;

- the alkyl ether sulfates, or the acids on which they are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH₂-OR-)_n-SW₃-H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R signifies a branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radical of 5-30 C atoms and n a number of 1 to 50;

- propoxylated fatty alcohols of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH (CH₃)-OR-)_n-H, where R represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n a number from 10 to 80;

ES 2 298 428 T3

- polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO - (- CH2-CH (CH₃)-OR-)_n-R ', where R and R', independently of one another, comprise branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n a number from 10 to 80;

- propoxylated lanolin alcohols;

- propoxylated fatty acid ethers of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH (CH₃)-OR-)_n-R ', where R and R', independently of one another, represent branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n a number from 10 to 80;

- propoxylated fatty acid esters of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH (CH₃)-OR-)_n-C (O) -R ', where R and R', independently of one another, represent branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n a number from 10 to 80;

- propoxylated fatty acids of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH (CH₃)-OR-)_n-H, where R represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n a number from 10 to 80;

- polypropylene glycolglycerol esters with saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids, branched or linear, and a degree of propoxylation between 3 and 80;

- propoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 100;

- propoxylated cholesterols with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 100;

- propoxylated triglycerides with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 100;

- the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH (CH₃)-OR-)_n-CH₂-COOH or its cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, where R is a branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 5 to 30;

- the alkyl ether sulfates, or the acids on which they are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH (CH₃)-OR-)_n-SW₃-H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R signifies a branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radical of 5-30 C atoms and n a number of 1 to 50;

- ethoxylated / propoxylated fatty alcohols of the general formula ROX_n-Y_m-H, where R represents a branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radical, X and Y are not identical and represent respectively an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m, independently of each other, numbers from 5 to 50;

- polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formula ROX_n-Y_m-R ', where R and R', independently of each other, represent branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radicals, X and Y are different and represent respectively an oxyethylene or oxypropylene group and and n, independently of each other, numbers from 5 to 100;

- propoxylated fatty acid ethers of the general formula R-COO-X_n-Y_m-R ', where R and R', independently of each other, represent branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radicals, X and Y are different and represent respectively an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and and n, independently of each other, numbers from 5 to 100;

- ethoxylated / propoxylated fatty acids of the general formula R-COO-X_n-Y_m-H, where R represents a branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radical, X and Y are not identical and represent respectively an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and and n, independently of each other, numbers from 5 to 50.

It is particularly advantageous to choose the polyethoxylated or propoxylated O / W emulsifier (s) and the polyethoxylated and propoxylated O / W emulsifier (s) from the group consisting of

- ethoxylated fatty alcohols of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH₂-OR-)_n-H, where R is a branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radical of 5-30 C atoms and n a number of 10 to 25;

- ethoxylated lanolin alcohols with HLB values ​​of 11-16, especially with HLB values ​​of 14.5-15.5;

- polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH₂-OR-)_n-R ', where R and R', independently of one another, represent linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radicals of 5-30 carbon atoms and n a number of 10 to 25;

- ethoxylated fatty acids of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH₂-OR-)_n-H, where R represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical of 5-30 C atoms and n a number of 10 to 25;

ES 2 298 428 T3

- ethoxylated fatty acid ethers of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH₂-OR-)_n-R ', where R and R', independently of one another, represent branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radicals of 5-30 carbon atoms and n a number of 10 to 50;

- ethoxylated fatty acid esters of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH₂-OR-)_n-C (O) R ', where R and R', independently of each other, represent linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radicals of 5-30 C atoms and n a number of 10 to 50;

- esters of polyethylene glycolglycerol with saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids, branched and / or linear, of 6 to 26 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 40;

- ethoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of ethoxylation of 3 to 30;

- ethoxylated cholesterols with HLB values ​​of 11-16, especially with HLB values ​​of 14.5-15.5;

- ethoxylated triglycerides with HLB values ​​of 11-16, especially with HLB values ​​of 14.5-15.5;

- the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH₂-OR-)_n-CH₂-COOH or its cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, where R represents a branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radical of 5-30 carbon atoms and n a number of 10 to 20;

polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters with fatty acids based on branched or linear alkanoacids or alkenoacids and a degree of ethoxylation of 10 to 80, for example of the Sorbeth type;

- the alkyl ether sulfates, or the acids on which they are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH₂-OR-)_n-SW₃H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R signifies a branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radical of 5-30 C atoms and n a number of 3 to 30;

- propoxylated fatty alcohols of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH (CH₃)-OR-)_n-H, where R represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical of 5-30 carbon atoms and n a number of 10 to 30;

- polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH (CH₃)-OR-)_n-R ', where R and R', independently of one another, represent linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radicals of 5-30 carbon atoms and n a number of 10 to 40;

- propoxylated lanolin alcohols with HLB values ​​of 11-16, especially with HLB values ​​of 14.5-15.5; propoxylated fatty acids of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH (CH₃)-OR-)_n-H, where R represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical of 5-30 C atoms and n a number of 10 to 40;

- propoxylated fatty acid ethers of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH (CH₃)-OR-)_n-R ', where R and R', independently of one another, represent linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radicals of 5-30 carbon atoms and n a number of 10 to 30;

- propoxylated fatty acid esters of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH (CH₃)-OR-)_n-C (O) R ', where R and R', independently of each other, represent linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radicals of 5-30 C atoms and n a number of 10 to 50;

- polypropylene glycolglycerol esters with saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids, branched and / or linear, of 6 to 26 carbon atoms and a degree of propoxylation between 3 and 50;

- propoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 80;

- propoxylated cholesterols with HLB values ​​of 11-16, especially with HLB values ​​of 14.5-15.5;

- propoxylated triglycerides with HLB values ​​of 11-16, especially with HLB values ​​of 14.5-15.5;

- the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH (CH₃)-OR-)_n-CH₂-COOH or its cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, where R represents a branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radical of 5-30 C atoms and n a number of 10 to 30;

- the alkyl ether sulfates, or the acids on which they are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH (CH₃)-OR-)_n-SW₃H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R signifies a branched or linear alkyl or alkenyl radical of 5-30 C atoms and n a number of 1 to 30.

According to the present invention, it is especially advantageous to choose the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers, or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated, used in the same from the group formed by substances with HLB values ​​of 11-16, especially with HLB values ​​of 14.5- 15.5, provided that the O / W emulsifiers present

ES 2 298 428 T3 saturated R and / or R 'radicals. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated R and / or R 'radicals or there are isoalkyl derivatives, the preferred HLB value of said emulsifiers may be lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the ethoxylated fatty alcohols from the group of stearyl, cetyl and cetylstearyl (cetearyl) alcohols. Above all, the following are preferred:

Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (Steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearylether (Steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearylether (Steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (Steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearylether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearylether (Steareth-20), polyethylene glycol (12) iso-stearylether (Isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (Isosteareth-12) (13) isostearyl ether (Isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (Isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (Isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (Isosteareth-17) Isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (Isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isosteareth-20), polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (Ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (Ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (Ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (Ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether (Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (Ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (Ceteth-20), polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (Isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (Isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (Isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (Isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether (Isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (Isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (Isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (Isoceteth-20), polyethylene oleyl ether (12) Oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (Oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (Oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (Oleth-15), polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolaureth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-16 tearyl), polyethylene glycol ether (17) ceteareth-tearyl ether (17) Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-20).

It is also advantageous to choose the ethoxylated fatty acids from the following group:

polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate, polyethylene glycol (12) iso-stearate, polyethylene glycol (13) iso-stearate, polyethylene glycol (13) iso-stearate 14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate (14) 15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate.

As the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt, sodium laureth-11-carboxylate can be advantageously used.

As alkyl ether sulfate, sodium laureth-14-sulfate can be advantageously used.

As the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative, polyethylene glycol (30) cholesterol ether can be advantageously used. Soya polyethylene glycol (25) sterol has also been successful.

As ethoxylated triglycerides, the glycerides of polyethylene glycol (60) primrose (primrose = evening primrose) can be advantageously used.

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid esters of the polyethylene glycolglycerines from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) glycerylaurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glycerylaurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glycerylurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl ethyl glycol, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl ester glycol (polyethylene glycol) 20) glyceryloleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryloleate / cocoate.

It is also favorable to choose sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitanmonolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitanmonostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitanmonostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitanmonopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan glycol (20).

ES 2 298 428 T3

As optional, but advantageous W / O emulsifiers for the present invention, the following may be employed: fatty alcohols of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerinesters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or linear alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms, diglycerinesters of saturated alkanecarboxylic acids and / or unsaturated, branched and / or linear with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, monoglycerin ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or linear alcohols, with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms, diglycerine ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or linear alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms C, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or linear alkanecarboxylic acids, with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, as well as sorbitan esters with saturated and / or unsaturated alkanecarboxylic acids , branched and / or linear, with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers include glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monomyrristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glyceryl mono-stearate, propylene glycol mono-stearate, propylene glycol mono-stearate, sorbitan, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, Sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selakyl alcohol, chemil alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearylether (Steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

According to the present invention it is possible to keep the total content of emulsifiers less than 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the microemulsion. It is preferred that the total content of emulsifiers is less than 15% by weight, especially less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the microemulsion.

The organic phase of the microemulsions of the present invention is advantageously chosen from the group of esters formed by saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or linear alkanecarboxylic acids, with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and saturated alcohols and / or unsaturated, branched and / or linear, with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms; from the group of esters formed by aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or linear alcohols, with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. These steric oils can then be advantageously chosen from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, ndecyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate. , isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucil oleate, Erucillus erucate, as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg jojoba oil.

Likewise, the oil phase can be advantageously chosen from the group of branched and linear hydrocarbons and waxes, from silicone oils, from dialkyl ethers, from the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alcohols, as well as from fatty acid triglycerides. , especially the triglycerinesters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or linear alkanecarboxylic acids, with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageously chosen, for example, from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, for example olive, sunflower, soybean, peanut, rapeseed, almond, palm, palm oil. coconut, palm kernel and the like.

Any mixture of these components based on oils and waxes can also be used advantageously according to the present invention.

If necessary, the use of waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the only lipid component of the organic phase may also be useful. In such cases the O / W microemulsions according to the present invention can also be produced as microemulsions of solid wax particles.

The organic phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosan, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C-alkyl benzoate._12-15, capryliccapric triglyceride, dicaprylether.

Mixtures of C-alkyl benzoate are particularly advantageous._12-15 and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, C-alkyl benzoate mixtures_12-15 and isotridecyl isononanoate, as well as C alkyl benzoate mixtures_12-15, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Among the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be advantageously used according to the present invention.

Likewise, the organic phase can advantageously have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or be made up entirely of said oils, although, apart from the silicone oil or oils, it is preferred to work with an additional content of other components in the organic phase.

As silicone oil, cyclomethicone (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is advantageously used according to the present invention. But the use of other silicone oils is also useful according to the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

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Also especially useful are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, and of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The microemulsions of the present invention are advantageously prepared by heating a mixture of the basic components - including aqueous phase, organic phase, one or more of the O / W emulsifiers according to the present invention, if desired, one or more W / O emulsifiers, and also, if desired, other auxiliary substances, additives and / or active substances -, which form an O / W emulsion below the phase inversion temperature range, at a temperature above or within the phase inversion temperature range and then cooling the obtained microemulsion to room temperature, which is preferably carried out under stirring.

Unexpectedly, a homogenization step can be dispensed with.

Large amounts of acidic aluminum and / or aluminum / zirconium salts can advantageously be incorporated into the emulsions. 5 to 40% by weight, in particular 7 to 25% by weight of aluminum hydrochloride and / or aluminum / zirconium hydrochloride can be stably incorporated into the emulsions. In this case the concentration ranges described refer to the so-called active contents of the antiperspirant complexes: in the case of aluminum compounds to water-free complexes, in the case of aluminum / zirconium compounds to water-free complexes and buffer. As a buffer, glycine is often used here.

The following list of antiperspirant agents that can be used advantageously should not be restrictive in any case:

Aluminum salts (total empirical formula [Al₂(OH)_mCl_n], where m + n = 6):

• aluminum salts such as aluminum chloride AlCl₃, aluminum sulfate Al₂(SW₄)₃ • aluminum hydrochloride [Al₂(OH)₅C1] x H₂OR

Al standard complexes: Locron L (Clariant), Chlorhydrol) (Reheis), ACH-303 (Summit), Aloxicoll L (Giulini)

Activated Al complexes: Reach 501 (Reheis), AACH-324 (Summit) • aluminum sesquichlorhydrate [Al₂(OH)₄,₅Cli,₅] x H₂OR

Al standard complexes: Aluminum Sesquichlorohydrate (Reheis), ACH-308 (Summit), Aloxicoll3l L (Giulini)

Activated Al complexes: Reach 301 (Reheis) • aluminum dihydrochloride [Al₂(OH)₄Cl₂] x H₂OR

Aluminum-zirconium salts:

• Aluminum zirconium glycine trichlorohydrex [A1₄Zr (OH)₁₃Cl₃] x H₂O x Gly

Standard Al / Zr complexes: Rezal 33GP (Reheis), AZG-7164 (Summit), Zirkonal P3G (Giulini)

Activated Al / Zr complexes: Reach AZZ 902 (Reheis), AAZG-7160 (Summit), Zirkonal AP3G (Giulini) • aluminum tetrachlorohydrex-zirconium glycine [Al₄Zr (OH)₁₂Cl₄] x H₂O x Gly

Standard Al / Zr complexes: Rezal 36GP (Reheis), AZG-368 (Summit), Zirkonal L435G (Giulini)

Activated Al / Zr complexes: Reach AZP 855 (Reheis), AAZG-6313-15 (Summit), Zirkonal AP4G (Giulini) • Aluminum-zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine [Al₈Zr (OH) 23Cl₅] x H₂O x Gly

Standard Al / Zr complexes: Rezal 67 (Reheis), Zirkonal L540 (Giulini)

Activated Al / Zr complexes: Reach AZN 885 (Reheis) • aluminum octachlorohydrex-zirconium glycine [Al₈Zr (OH)₂₀Cl₈] x H₂O x Gly

However, glycine-free aluminum / zirconium salts may also be advantageous.

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The use of antiperspirants belonging to the class of raw materials aluminum and aluminum / zirconium salts should not be limited to the usual commercial solutions, almost always aqueous, such as Locron L (Clariant), but can also be It is useful to use water-free powdered products, also common in commerce, and of the same raw materials, such as, for example, Locron P (Clariant), in the claimed formulations.

The use of so-called AT salt suspensions, in which powdered aluminum and aluminum / zirconium salts are offered dispersed in various oils, could also be advantageous.

The use of special aluminum and aluminum / zirconium salts, which are sold as glycol complexes to improve solubility, may also be advantageous.

Other advantageous antiperspirant agents are based on other metals, such as beryllium, titanium, hafnium, instead of aluminum and zirconium.

But the list of usable antiperspirant agents should not be limited to raw materials that contain metals, since compounds containing non-metallic elements such as boron can also be advantageous, as well as those that belong to the field of organic chemistry, such as e.g. anticholinergics. Polymers which can carry or be metal-free are also advantageous in this regard.

The effect of many preparations, which after application leave a visible whitish residue on the skin, is often annoying for the user. In water-free preparations, the use of propoxylated alcohols to cover this effect has been successful. In the case of aqueous preparations, no satisfactory solution to the problem is known to date. The addition of propoxylated alcohols with 10 to 20 propyloxy units and 2 to 10 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, especially PPG-14-butyl ether, as a component of the organic phase of medium polarity, remedies said defect in the technical state by plugging safely these whitish residues.

Deodorants can advantageously be added to the preparations of the present invention. Usual cosmetic deodorants are based on various active ingredients.

By using antimicrobial substances in cosmetic deodorants, the bacterial flora on the skin can be reduced. Ideally, only odor-causing microorganisms should be effectively reduced. The sweat flow itself is not disturbed; ideally, the microbial breakdown of sweat is only temporarily stopped. The combination of astringents with antimicrobial substances in the same composition is also common.

All the usual active ingredients for deodorants can be used to advantage, for example agents for masking odors, such as ordinary perfumes; odor absorbers, for example the phyllosilicates described in DE 40 09 347, especially montmorillonite, kaolinite, illite, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, and also, for example, the zinc salts of ricinoleic acid. It is also appropriate to incorporate germ-inhibiting agents into the emulsions of the present invention. Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'hydroxydiphenyl ether (Irgasan), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, compounds of quaternary ammonium, clove, mint and thyme essences, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol), as well as the active agents described in DE 37 40 186 patents, DE 39 38 140, DE 42 04 321, DE 42 29 707, DE 42 29 737, DE 42 37 081, DE 43 09 372, DE 43 24 219. Sodium bicarbonate can also be used to advantage.

Obviously, the list of said active principles or combinations of active principles usable in the emulsions of the present invention should not be limiting. The amount of deodorants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, especially 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the preparation.

The preparations of the present invention can additionally contain hydrocolloids, inorganic pigments, antioxidants and / or cosmetic or dermatological active principles that can be both fat-soluble and water-soluble.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations of the present invention may contain cosmetic auxiliary substances such as those usually used in such compositions, eg. preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, defoamers, colorants, pigments, thickeners, wetting and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components in a cosmetic or dermatological formulation, such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or silicone derivatives, as well as humidifiers.

The following examples serve to clarify the present invention, without limiting it. Unless otherwise indicated, all data on quantities, parts and percentages refer to the weight and to the total quantity or to the total weight of the preparations.

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Examples of recipes

Translucent microemulsion formulas:

<td>Chemical name</td><td>INCI</td><td>η »1</td><td>n «2</td><td>n «3</td><td>n * 4</td>

<td>Polyoxyethylene (20) cetylstearyl ether</td><td>Ceteareth-20</td><td> 3</td><td> 4</td><td> 5</td><td> 4</td>

<td>Polyoxyethylene (12) cetylstearyl ether</td><td>Ceteareth-12</td><td> 0,5</td><td> -</td><td> -</td><td> -</td>

<td>Glycerin stearate</td><td>Glyceryl Stearate</td><td> 3</td><td> 3</td><td> 2</td><td> -</td>

<td>Glycerin isostearate</td><td>Glyceryl Isostearate</td><td> -</td><td> -</td><td> -</td><td> 3</td>

<td>Cetylstearyl alcohol</td><td>Cetearyl Alcohol</td><td> 0,5</td><td> -</td><td> -</td><td> -</td>

<td>Cetyl palmitate</td><td>Cetyl Palmitate</td><td> 0,5</td><td> -</td><td> -</td><td> -</td>

<td>Cetyl alcohol</td><td>Cetyl Alcohol</td><td> -</td><td> 2</td><td> -</td><td> 1</td>

<td>Stearyl alcohol</td><td>Stearyl Alcohol</td><td> -</td><td> -</td><td> 2</td><td> -</td>

<td>Caprylic-capric ester</td><td>Coco-Caprylate / Caprate</td><td> 5</td><td> 3</td><td> 3</td><td> 4</td>

<td>Di-n-octyl ether</td><td>Dicaprylyl Ether</td><td> 5</td><td> -</td><td> 5</td><td> 4</td>

<td>Di-n-octiIcarbonate</td><td>Dicaprylyl Carbonate</td><td> -</td><td> 3</td><td> -</td><td> 1</td>

<td>Glycerin</td><td>Glycerin</td><td> 4</td><td> 2</td><td> 3</td><td> 3</td>

<td>Aluminum hydrochloride (50% aqueous solution)</td><td>Aluminum Chlorohydrate</td><td> 16</td><td> 30</td><td> 40</td><td> 20</td>

<td>3,7, ll-Trimethyl-2,6,10- dodecatrien-1-ol</td><td>Farnesol</td><td> 1</td><td></td><td></td><td> 1</td>

<td>Octildodecar.ol</td><td>Octyldodecanol</td><td> -</td><td> 1</td><td> 1</td><td> -</td>

<td>Avocado oil</td><td>Persea Gratissima</td><td> 1</td><td> 1</td><td> 1</td><td> -</td>

<td>Glycerin Laurate</td><td>Glyceryl Laurate</td><td> 1</td><td> -</td><td> 1</td><td> -</td>

<td>Fragrance</td><td>Parfum</td><td> 1</td><td> 1</td><td> -</td><td> -</td>

<td>Water up</td><td>Water, ad</td><td> 100</td><td> 100</td><td> 100</td><td> 100</td>

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Clear microemulsion formulas:

<td>Chemical name</td><td>XNCI</td><td> 1</td><td>n '2</td><td>n * 3</td><td>n² 4</td>

<td>Glycerin Monoisostearate</td><td>Glyceryl Isostearate</td><td> 3</td><td> 2</td><td> 3</td><td> 4</td>

<td>Polyoxyethylene-20- isohexadecyl ether</td><td>Isoceteth-20</td><td> 6</td><td> 5</td><td></td><td></td>

<td>Polyoxyethylene-20- isooctadecyl ether</td><td>Isosteareth-20</td><td></td><td></td><td> 6</td><td></td>

<td>Polyoxyethylene-25-octyl- dodecyl ether</td><td>Octyldodeceth-25</td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td> 5</td>

<td>Caprylic-Capric Ester</td><td>Coco-Caprylate / Caprate</td><td> -</td><td> 5</td><td> 3</td><td> 5</td>

<td>Di-n-octyl ether</td><td>Dicaprylyl Ether</td><td> 5</td><td> -</td><td> -</td><td> -</td>

<td>Di-n-octiIcarbonate</td><td>Dicaprylyl Carbonate</td><td> -</td><td> 3</td><td> 5</td><td> 3</td>

<td>Glycerin</td><td>Glycerin</td><td> -</td><td> 4</td><td> 3</td><td> 3</td>

<td>Butylene glycol</td><td>Butylene Glycol</td><td> 3</td><td> -</td><td> -</td><td> -</td>

<td>Aluminum hydrochloride (50% aqueous solution)</td><td>Aluminum Chlorohydrate</td><td> 16</td><td> 20</td><td> 40</td><td> 30</td>

<td>3,7, ll-Trimethyl-2,6,10- dodecatrien-l-ol</td><td>Farnesol</td><td> 1</td><td></td><td> 1</td><td></td>

<td>Avocado oil</td><td>Persea Gratissima</td><td> -</td><td> 1</td><td> -</td><td> 1</td>

<td>Octyldodecanol</td><td>Octyldodecanol</td><td> -</td><td> 1</td><td> -</td><td> 1</td>

<td>Glycerin Laurate</td><td>Glyceryl Laurate</td><td> -</td><td> 1</td><td> -</td><td> 1</td>

<td>Glycerin Monocaprate</td><td>Glyceryl Caprate</td><td> 1</td><td> -</td><td> 1</td><td> -</td>

<td>Jojoba oil</td><td>Buxus Chinensis</td><td> 1</td><td> -</td><td> 1</td><td> -</td>

<td>Fragrance</td><td>Parfum</td><td> 1</td><td> 1</td><td> -</td><td> 1</td>

<td>Water up</td><td>Water, ad</td><td> 100</td><td> 100</td><td> 100</td><td> 100</td>