Composition containing fibres and its uses particularly in cosmetics
Abstract
Composition comprising in an physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, fibers, spherical particles and inserts.
Term
Term ended
Projected expiry passed 5 March 2022, 4.6 years ago.
- Priority
- Filed
- Published
- Projected expiry
- Today
29 claims: 25 independent, 4 dependent
- 1ES 2 265 025 T3 REIVINDICACIONES 1. Composición que comprende en un medio fisiológicamente aceptable, una fase aceitosa dispersada en una fase acuosa, fibras, partículas esféricas y plaquitas.
- 2Composición según la reivindicación 1, caracterizada porque las fibras tienen una longitud (L) que va de 1 pm a 10 mm.
- 3Composición según la reivindicación 1 ó 2, caracterizada porque las fibras tienen una sección comprendida en un círculo de diámetro (D) que va de 1 nm a 100 pm.
- 4Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las fibras tienen un factor de forma (L/D) que va de 5 a 150.
- 5Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las fibras tienen un título que va de 0,15 a 30 deniers.
- 6Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las fibras son elegidas entre las fibras de seda, de algodón, de lana, de lino, de celulosa extraídas particularmente de la madera, las hortalizas o de las algas, de poliamida (Nylon ® ), de celulosa, modificada, de poli-p-fenilen tereftalamida, en acrílico, de poliolefina, de vidrio, de sílice, de aramida, de carbono, de Téflon®, de colágeno insoluble, de poliésteres, de policloruro de vinilo o de vinilideno, de alcohol polivinílico, de poliacrilonitrilo, de quitosano, de poliuretano, de polietileno ftalato, fibras formadas por una mezcla de polímeros, las fibras sintéticas reabsorbibles, y sus mezclas.
- 7Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las fibras están revestidas y/o funcionalizadas.
- 8Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las fibras son elegidas entre las fibras de poliamida, las fibras de poli-p-fenileno tereftalamida, las fibras de algodón y sus mezclas.
- 9Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las fibras están presentes en una cantidad que va de 0,1 a 50% en peso y de preferencia de 1 a 20% en peso con relación al peso total de la composición.
- 10Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las partículas esféricas son microesferas orgánicas o minerales.
- 11Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las partículas esféricas tienen una granulometría que va de 0,1 pm a 250 pm.
- 12Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las partículas esféricas son elegidas entre el polvo de sílice;las partículas de poliamida;los polvos de polietileno;las microesferas a base de copolímeros acrílicos;los polvos expandidos;los polvos de materiales orgánicos naturales;las microbolas de resina de silicona;y sus mezclas.
- 13Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las partículas esféricas están presentes en una cantidad que va de 0,1 a 30% en peso y de preferencia de 0,5 a 25% en peso con relación al peso total de la composición.
- 14Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las plaquitas tienen una longitud que va de 0,01 a 100 pm, una anchura que va de 0,1 a 100 pm, y una altura que va de 0,1 a 1000 nm.
- 15Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las plaquitas son elegidas entre los pigmentos minerales u orgánicos, los silicatos laminares, y sus mezclas.
- 16Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las plaquitas son elegidas entre los óxidos de titanio, de circonio o de cerio, los óxidos de zinc, de hierro o de cromo, el azul férrico, el negro de carbono, las lacas de bario, estroncio, calcio, aluminio, y sus mezclas.
- 17Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las plaquitas son elegidas entre las arcillas, los talcos, las micas, los nácares y sus mezclas.
- 18Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las plaquitas son elegidas entre el silicato de sodio y de magnesio;el caolín, las hectoritas, los talcos, las micas, las micas recubiertas de óxido de titanio, de óxido de hierro, de pigmento natural y/o de oxicloruro de bismuto, y sus mezclas. ES 2 265 025 T3
- 19Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque las plaquitas están presentes en una cantidad que va del 0,1 al 30% en peso y de preferencia del 0,25 al 25% en peso con relación al peso total de la composición.
- 20Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque la fase aceitosa representa de un 10 a un 50% en peso y de preferencia de un 15 a un 30% en peso con relación al peso total de la composición.
- 21Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque constituye una emulsión de aceite-en-agua.
- 22Composición según la reivindicación anterior, caracterizada porque comprende al menos un emulsionante seleccionado entre los agentes tensioactivos no iónicos.
- 23Composición según la reivindicación anterior, caracterizada porque el agente tensioactivo no iónico es elegido entre los ésteres de polioles y de ácido graso de cadena saturada o insaturada que comprenden por ejemplo de 8 a 24 átomos de carbono y mejor de 12 a 22 átomos de carbono, y sus derivados oxialquilenados.
- 24Composición según la reivindicación precedente, caracterizada porque el agente tensioactivo no iónico es elegido entre los ésteres de ácido graso y de glucosa o de alquilglucosa, y sus derivados oxietilenados, y sus mezclas.
- 25Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones 22 a 24, caracterizada porque la cantidad de emulsionante(s) oscila entre 0,1 y 15% en peso y de preferencia entre 0,5 y 10% en peso con relación al peso total de la composición.
- 26Composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones anteriores, caracterizada porque está constituida por una composición cosmética.
- 27Utilización cosmética de la composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones 1 a 26, para el tratamiento, la protección, el cuidado, el desmaquillaje y/o la limpieza de la piel, los labios y/o los cabellos, y/o para el maquillaje de la piel, los labios, las pestañas y/o del cuerpo.
- 28Procedimiento de tratamiento cosmético de la piel, de los cabellos, de las pestañas y/o de los labios, caracterizado por el hecho de que se aplica sobre la piel, los cabellos, las pestañas y/o los labios, una composición según una cualquiera de las reivindicaciones 1 a 26.
- 29Utilización cosmética de la asociación de plaquitas y de partículas esféricas en una composición cosmética que contiene fibras, para evitar que las fibras se aglomeren, para evitar la formación de bolitas de la composición y para facilitar la aplicación de la composición sobre las materias queratínicas y particularmente la piel.
Independent claims29
116 paragraphs in 9 sections, as filed
ES 2 265 025 T3
DESCRIPTION
Composition containing fibers and their uses particularly in cosmetics.
The present application refers to a composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, fibers, spherical particles and plates, and to the use of the indicated composition, in particular for the care, treatment and / or or makeup of the skin of the body or face, hair, eyelashes and / or lips.
From document JP07-196440, cosmetic compositions containing short polyamide fibers are known, these giving the indicated compositions a velvety touch and good cosmetic performance. However, the incorporation of fibers, and in particular of these polyamide fibers, in dispersions that comprise an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and in particular in oil-in-water (H / E) emulsions that are stabilized dispersions due to emulsifiers, it poses problems in the application of the composition on keratin materials such as the skin, and this particularly when the quantity of fibers is important. Indeed, the fibers, particularly when they are in a fairly large quantity, have a tendency to aggregate in the H / E emulsions that contain them. On the other hand, these fiber-containing emulsions have a tendency to "form pellets" on the skin, that is, when applied en masse, forming small balls on the skin.
Document EP-A-0106 762 describes the association of polyethylene fibers with silica, preferably amorphous and synthetic, in a cosmetic make-up product.
The need therefore remains for H / E dispersions and in particular for H / E emulsions containing fibers, and particularly polyamide fibers, even in large quantities, and which do not have the drawbacks of the prior art.
The Applicant Firm has unexpectedly discovered that the fact of associating with fibers, spherical particles and plates allowed to avoid the problems of formation of balls and aggregation, due to the fibers, and to make oil-in-water emulsions containing fibers, They do not pose problems when applied to the skin, even in the presence of a significant amount of fibers.
The present invention relates to a composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, fibers, spherical particles and wafers.
The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is understood here as a medium that is compatible with keratin materials and in particular the skin, lips, scalp, eyelashes, eyes and / or hair.
The dispersion can more particularly be an H / E emulsion.
The combination used not only prevents the fibers from agglomerating, but also facilitates the application of the composition containing them, on keratin materials and in particular on the skin. Thus, the composition according to the invention does not "form balls" and therefore does not form small balls when applied to the skin. In addition, it is easily diluted, that is, it is applied and deposited in a sufficient amount and homogeneously on the skin or the keratin material where it is applied. This effect of the association of the plates and spherical particles is verified for any composition containing fibers and particularly for the dispersions of the invention.
Another object of the invention is the cosmetic use of the association of plates and spherical particles in a cosmetic composition containing fibers, to prevent the fibers from agglomerating, to avoid the formation of pellets of the composition and to facilitate the application (and the fading) of the composition on keratin materials and particularly on the skin.
In the present application, by "spherical particles" is understood particles having the shape or substantially the shape of a sphere, insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting temperature of the medium (approximately 100 ° C.)
In addition, here by "plates" or "lamellae" it is understood particles of parallelepipedic (rectangular or square surface), discoidal (circular surface) or ellipsoidal (oval surface), characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height, particles which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting temperature of the medium (approximately 100 ° C).
The composition of the invention can comprise one or more kinds of fibers, one or more kinds of spherical particles and one or more kinds of plates.
Fibers
The fibers usable in the composition of the invention can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers, of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin.
ES 2 265 025 T3
These fibers can be short or long, unitary or organized, for example braided. They are generally cylindrical in shape, contrary to parallelepipedic shaped plates and spherical shaped particles. Its morphology can be any and particularly of circular or polygonal section (square, triangular, hexagonal or octagonal) according to the specific application considered. In particular, their ends are blunt and / or polished to avoid injury.
In particular, the fibers can have a length (L) ranging from 1 µm (0.001 mm) to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 µm to 5 mm and better from 0.1 mm to 1.5 mm. Its section can be included in a circle with diameter (D) ranging from 1 nm (0.001 jum) to 100 jum, preferably ranging from 1 nm (0.001 μιη) at 50 pm and better from 5 pm to 40 jum.
Preferably, the fibers used according to the present invention have a shape factor, that is to say an L / D (length / diameter) ratio ranging from 3.5 to 2500, better from 5 to 500 and even better from 5 to 150.
The titer of the fibers is often given in deniers or decitex. Denier is the weight in grams for 9 km of yarn. Preferably, the fibers used according to the invention have a titre ranging from 0.15 to 30 deniers, and better still from 0.18 to 18 deniers.
The shape factor, the titer and the morphology of the fibers are the three important factors in defining a fiber.
The fibers can be those used in the manufacture of textiles and particularly silk, cotton, wool, linen, cellulose fibers, extracted particularly from wood, vegetables or algae, from polyamide (Nylon<sup>®</sup>), modified cellulose (rayon, viscose, acetate particularly rayon acetate), poly-p-phenylene terephthalamide particularly Kevlar<sup>®</sup>, made of acrylic, particularly polymethyl methacrylate or poly 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, polyolefin and particularly polyethylene or polypropylene, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, particularly in the form of graphite, Teflon®, insoluble collagen , of polyesters, of polyvinyl or vinylidene chloride, of polyvinyl alcohol, of polyacrylonitrile, of chitosan, of polyurethane, of polyethylene phthalate, of fibers formed by a mixture of polymers such as those mentioned above, such as polyamide / polyester fibers.
As polyurethane fibers, mention may be made, for example, of poly (urethane-urea) polymer fibers, belonging to the elastane class, and particularly those sold under the name LYCRA® by the DuPont Company.
Resorbable synthetic fibers used in surgery can also be used, such as fibers prepared from glycolic acid and caprolactone (Monocryl from the Johnson & Johnson Society); resorbable synthetic fibers of the lactic acid and glycolic acid copolymer type (Vicryl from the Johnson & Johnson Society); terephthalic polyester fibers (Ethibond from the Jonson & Jonson Society) and the stainless steel wires (Acier from the Jonson & Jonson Society).
It is also possible to use mixtures of the fibers mentioned above.
On the other hand, the fibers can be surface treated or not, coated or not. They may be in particular coated and / or functionalized fibers, "functionalized" meaning that the fibers are surface treated in order to modify the properties.
As coated fibers that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of polyamide fibers coated with copper sulfide for an antistatic effect (for example R-STAT from the Rhodia Society) or another polymer that allows a particular organization of the fibers (specific surface treatment) or surface treatment that induces color / hologram effects (Lurex fiber from Sildorex, for example).
The fibers can also be functionalized, that is, they can be modified so that they have a specific function. This functionalization of the fibers can be carried out both on the fibers and within the fibers, and this by any method that allows a compound to be grasped by the fibers or trapped in the cavities formed by the geometry of the fibers. As methods, mention may be made, for example, of plastering the fibers by means of an active agent; the fixation of particles including an active agent, such as nanocapsules or nanospheres, on the fibers; adsorption on fibers; fixation by chemical reaction. It is thus possible to use fibers that have particular functionalities, for example anti-UV fibers by modification with chemical or physical sunscreens; bactericidal or antiseptic fibers by modification with preservatives or antibacterials; fibers colored by modification with dye molecules; keratolytic or descaling fibers by modification with keratolytic or descaling agents; hydrating fibers by modification with hydrating agents or water-retaining polymers; fibers scented by modification with a perfume; analgesic or thickening fibers by modification with an anti-inflammatory or thickening agent; antiperspirant fibers by modification with an antiperspirant.
Depending on their properties, the fibers used according to the present invention can be introduced into an aqueous medium, an oily medium or in a powder.
The fibers usable according to the invention are preferably chosen from polyamide fibers, poly-p-phenylene terephthalamide fibers, cotton fibers and their blends. Its length can range from 0.1 to 10 mm,
ES 2 265 025 T3 preferably between 0.1 and 1 mm, its mean diameter can range between 5 and 50 pm and the shape factor preferably ranges between 5 and 150.
In particular, the polyamide fibers marketed by the Etablissements P. Bonte under the name Polyamide 0.9 dtex 0.3 mm can be used, with a mean diameter of 15 to 20 pm, a titer of approximately 0.9 dtex (0 , 81 denier) and a length ranging from 0.3 mm to 1.5 mm. Poly-p-phenylene terephthalamide fibers of average diameter of 12 µm in length of about 1.5 mm such as those sold under the name Kevlar Floc by the Du Pont Fibers Society can also be used. These polyamide fibers are preferably introduced into an oily medium or dryly into a powder.
Cotton fibers with an average diameter of 20 pm, a length of 0.3 mm, and a form factor of 15 can also be used, such as those marketed by the Filature de Lomme Society, by the Institut Textile de France, for the Textiles des Dunes Society or by the Velifil Society.
The fibers can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better from 1 to 20% by weight and even better than 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Spherical particles
The spherical particles used according to the invention have the shape or substantially the shape of a sphere and can be hollow or solid. Advantageously, the particles of the invention have a particle size (number average diameter) ranging from 0.1 pm to 250 pm and even better from 1 pm to 150 pm, and even better from 10 pm to 100 pm.
The spherical particles can be organic or mineral microspheres. As spherical particles usable in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of silica powder; polyamide particles and particularly NYLON 12 such as that marketed under the name ORGASOL by the Atochem Society; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by the Dow Corning Company under the name POLYTRAP; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and particularly, microspheres sold under the name EXPANCEL by the Kemanord Plast Company or under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED by the Matsumoto Company; powders of natural organic materials such as corn, wheat or rice starches, cross-linked or not, such as starch powders cross-linked by octenylsuccinate anhydride, marketed under the name DRY-FLO by the National Starch Society; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name TOSPEARL by the Toshiba Silicone Company; and their mixtures.
These spherical particles can be present in amounts ranging for example from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight and better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Inserts
As indicated above, the plates are particles of a parallelepipedic (rectangular or square surface), discoidal (circular surface) or ellipsoidal (oval surface), characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height. When the shape is circular, the length and width are identical and correspond to the diameter of a disc, while the height corresponds to the thickness of the disc. When the surface is oval, the length and width correspond respectively to the major axis and the minor axis of an ellipse and the height corresponds to the thickness of the elliptical disk formed by the insert. When it comes to a parallelepiped, the length and width can be of identical or different dimensions: when they are of the same dimension, the shape of the surface of the parallelepiped is square; otherwise, the shape is rectangular. Regarding the height, it corresponds to the thickness of the parallelepiped.
The length of the plates used according to the invention preferably ranges between 0.01 and 100 pm, better between 0.1 and 50 pm and even better between 1 and 50 pm. The width of these plates ranges preferably between 0.01 and 100 pm, better between 0.1 and 50 pm and even better between 1 and 10 pm. And the height (thickness) of these plates ranges preferably between 0.1 nm and 1 pm (0.1 to 1000 nm), better between 1 nm and 600 nm and even better between 1 nm and 500 nm.
As plates that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic pigments, layered silicates, and their mixtures.
By pigments, it is necessary to understand white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in the medium of the composition, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.
As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, and their mixtures. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum lakes and their mixtures.
As layered silicates, mention may be made of clays, talcs, micas, nacres, and their mixtures.
ES 2 265 025 T3
Clays are mixed silicates of natural or synthetic origin that include several (two or more) types of cations selected from the alkali metals (for example Na, Li, K) or alkaline earth metals (for example Be, Mg, Ca), the metals of transition and aluminum.
As clays usable in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of sodium and magnesium silicate (CTFA name: Sodium magnesium silicate), clays of the kaolin family, such as kaolin or kaolinite, dickite, nacrite; clays of the Halloisite family, Dombasite, Antigorite, Benthierine, Pyrophyllite; the montmorillonites; the beidelita; vermiculites; stevensite; the hectorites; the saponites; chlorites; sepiolite; smectite, as well as these clays chemically modified for example by acrylic acids, polysaccharides (for example carboxymethylcellulose) or organic cations, and their mixtures.
Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates that most often comprise aluminum silicate. The crystal structure of talc consists of repeating layers of a brucite sandwich between layers of silica.
Micas are aluminum silicates that optionally comprise iron and / or alkali metals. It has the property of being able to be divided into thin layers (approximately 1 pm). They generally have a dimension ranging between 5 and 150 µm, preferably between 10 and 100 µm and better between 10 and 60 µm for the greatest dimension (length), and a height (thickness) of 0.1 to 0.5 µm. They can be mentioned as micas, phlogopite, muscovite, fluoroflogopite, vermiculite, and their mixtures. Micaceous clays such as illite can also be mentioned.
By nacres, it is necessary to understand iridescent particles, particularly produced by certain mollusks in their shells or synthesized, which serve to modify the texture of the composition as well as the dull / gloss effect. The nacres are generally surface-treated micas to obtain this iridescent effect. Among the nacres that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of micas coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment and / or bismuth oxychloride, such as colored mica-titanium oxide (or mica-titanium). or not, and their mixtures.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the plates are chosen from sodium and magnesium silicate; kaolin and kaolinite; the montmorillonites; the hectorites; talc; the micas; the nacres, and their mixtures. Advantageously, kaolin such as the product marketed under the name COSLIN C-100 by the Engelhard Company is used more particularly in the composition of the invention, as a plate; talc such as those sold under the names ROSE TALC and TALC SG-2000 by the Nippon Talc Company; mica such as those marketed under the names MICA M RP and SILK MICA by the Merck Company; mica-titaniums such as mica-titanium oxide-chestnut iron oxide (CTFA: Mica / Iron oxides / Titanium dioxide) sold under the name CLOISONNE ROUGE FLAMBE 440 X by the Engelhard Company; or a modified hectorite, such as a benthone and more particularly the mixture "cyclomethicone, Quaternium-18 hectorite, SD alcohol 40" (85/10/5) (CTFA name) marketed under the name Bentone Gel VS-5 by the Company Rheox.
The amount of plates can range, for example, from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 25% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oily phase
The oily phase of the composition according to the invention generally represents 10 to 50% by weight and preferably 15 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The oily phase usually contains at least one oil. As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned, for example:
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or also, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean oils, pumpkin, grape seeds, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor bean, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the Stearineries Dubois Society or sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the Dynamit Nobel Society, jojoba oil, charity butter oil;
- synthetic esters and ethers, particularly of fatty acids, such as oils of the R'COOR formulas<sup>2 </sup>and R'OR<sup>2</sup> in which R<sup>1</sup> represents the remainder of a fatty acid comprising 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R<sup>2</sup> represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin's oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethyl hexyl palmitate, 2- octyl dodecyl, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisotearyl-malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;
ES 2 265 025 T3
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam oil<sup>®</sup>;
- fatty alcohols with 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;
- alkylated and particularly ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as oleth-12;
- partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in JP-A-2-295912. As fluorinated oils, mention may also be made of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and 1,3-perfluoro dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC PC1®" and "FLUTEC PC3®" by the BNFL Fluorochemicals Company; 1,2-perfluoro dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050<sup>®</sup>"And" PF 5060<sup>®</sup>"By the 3M Company, or also the bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name" FORALKYL® "by the Atochem Company; nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name "MSX 4518®" by the 3M Company and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052" by the 3M Company;
- silicone oils such as volatile or non-linear or cyclic silicone chain polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), liquid or pasty at room temperature, particularly cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;
- Your mixes.
By "hydrocarbon oil" is understood in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil that mainly comprises carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.
The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Carnauba or Candellila wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, FischerTropsch waxes ; gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins such as trifluoromethylC1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names "KSG" by the Shin-Etsu Society, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the Dow Corning Society or under the names "Gransil" by the Grant Industries Society.
These fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.
Aqueous phase
The aqueous phase of the composition of the invention generally constitutes from 30 to 85% and preferably from 60 to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additives
The composition according to the invention can in particular constitute an oil-in-water emulsion. It then preferably contains at least one emulsifier selected from those conventionally used for the preparation of H / E emulsions.
As an emulsifier, mention may be made, for example, of nonionic surfactants, and particularly polyol and fatty acid esters of saturated or unsaturated chain comprising for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say that comprise oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene units, such as glyceryl and fatty acid esters of C<sub>8</sub>-C<sub>24</sub>, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; the polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters of C<sub>8</sub>-C<sub>24</sub>, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sorbitol and fatty acid esters of C<sub>8</sub>-C<sub>24</sub>, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglucose) and C8-C24 fatty acid esters, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; and their mixtures.
As the glyceryl fatty acid ester, mention may be made in particular of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
ES 2 265 025 T3
As the polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester, mention may be made in particular of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate), and more especially polyethylene glycol monostearate 50 OE (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate ), and their mixtures.
As ester of fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose, mention may be made in particular of glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquystearates such as methiglucose sesquystearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters and more especially the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate); the mixed ester of methylglucoside and of the oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxystearate); methylglucoside and isostearate ester (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate); the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate); the mixture of the monoster and diester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesqui-isostearate); the mixture of the monoster and diester of metiglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by the AMERCHOL Company, and their mixtures.
As oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids and of glucose or of alkylglucose, mention may be made, for example, of oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acid and of methylglucose, and in particular polyethyleneglycol ether of diester of methyl glucose and of stearic acid in about 20 moles of oxide. of ethylene (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by the AMERCHOL Company; the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid of approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE- 20 by the AMERCHOL Company and the one marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by the GOLDSCHMIDT Company, and their mixtures.
As the sucrose ester, there may be mentioned, for example, sucrose palmetto stearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose mono laurate.
Depending on their nature, these emulsifiers enter the aqueous phase or the oily phase. There may also be an emulsifier in the aqueous phase and another emulsifier in the oil phase.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the emulsifier (s) are chosen from nonionic surfactants, and particularly polyol and fatty acid esters and their oxyethylenated derivatives, and more particularly glucose or alkylglucose esters and fatty acid and its oxyethylenated derivatives, and their mixtures.
The amount of emulsifier (s) can range, for example, from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight and better still from 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a known manner, the compositions of the invention may contain adjuvants customary in the fields considered, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, gelling agents, antioxidants, perfumes, solvents, filters, soluble colorants, basic or acidic agents and also lipid vesicles. . These adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetic field, and for example from 0.01 to 30% of the total weight of the emulsion, and are, depending on their nature, introduced in the aqueous phase or in the oily phase of the emulsion, or also in vesicles. These adjuvants as well as their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the property sought for the emulsion of the invention.
As active agents, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizers such as polyols such as glycerin and sorbitol; keratolytic agents; the depigmenting; thinners, and any appropriate active agent for the final purpose of the composition.
Depending on the fluidity of the composition to be obtained, one or more hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents can be added thereto. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made, for example, of carboxyvinyl polymers, such as carbomers; polyacrylamides and 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid polymers and copolymers), optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by the Hoechst Company under the trade name "Hostacerin AMPS ”(CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide).
As lipophilic gelling agents, mention can be made of modified clays such as benthones such as the mixture "cyclomethicone, Quaternium-18 hectorite, SD alcohol 40" (10/85/5) (CTFA name) marketed under the name Bentone Gel VS-5 by the Rheox Society; cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes such as those sold under the names KSG6 from Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C from Dow-Corning, Gransil from Grant Industries (SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556), or the marketed as gels: KSG15, KSG17, KSG16, KSG18 from Shin-Etsu, Gransil SR 5CYC gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 gel, Gransil SR DC 556 gel, SF 1204 and JK 113 from General Electric.
These gelling agents, when present, are generally used at concentrations ranging between 0.1 and 7% and preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
ES 2 265 025 T3
The compositions, object of the invention, find their application in a large number of treatments, particularly cosmetic or dermatological, and can thus constitute a cosmetic composition, particularly for the treatment, protection, care, make-up removal and / or cleaning of the skin. skin, lips and / or hair, and / or for makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or body.
The compositions according to the invention can, for example, be used as care, make-up removal and / or cleansing products for the face in the form of creams or milks or as make-up products (skin, eyelashes and lips) by incorporating pigments or colorants, for example as background stains.
Also, the invention has as its object the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above for the treatment, protection, care, make-up removal and / or cleaning of the skin, lips and / or hair, and / or for makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or the body.
The invention also has for its object a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin, including the scalp, hair, eyelashes and / or lips, characterized in that it is applied to the skin, hair, eyelashes and / or or the lips, a composition as defined above.
The examples that follow will allow a better understanding of the invention, without however being limiting. The amounts indicated are in% by weight, unless otherwise mentioned.
The example according to the invention was compared in a test with a set of 12 users with an identical composition but without containing either the plates (comparative example 1), or the spherical particles (comparative example 2). The application was carried out comparing half face, applying the composition of the invention on half of the face while one of the comparative examples was applied on the other half of the face.
(Table goes to next page)
ES 2 265 025 T3
<td>Composition</td><td>Example 1 according to invention</td><td>Comparative Example 1</td><td>Comparative Example 2</td>
<td>Phase A1 Methyl glucose</td><td> 2%</td><td> 2%</td><td> 2%</td>
<td>sesquistearate (Glucate SS) Stearyl</td><td> 2%</td><td> 2%</td><td> 2%</td>
<td>alcohol / Ceteareth-20 Preservatives</td><td> 0,1%</td><td> 0,1%</td><td> 0,1 %</td>
<td>2-Octyl dodecanol</td><td> 4%</td><td> 4%</td><td> 4%</td>
<td>Phase A2 Cyclopentasiloxane</td><td> 5%</td><td> 5%</td><td> 5%</td>
<td>Phase B1 Glycerin</td><td> 3%</td><td> 3%</td><td> 3%</td>
<td>Magnesium silicate</td><td> 0,5%</td><td> -</td><td> 0,5%</td>
<td>sodium (clay) (inserts) Demineralized water</td><td>csp 100%</td><td>csp 100%</td><td>csp 100%</td>
<td>Preservatives</td><td> 0,25 %</td><td> 0,25%</td><td> 0,25 %</td>
<td>Phase B2 PEG-20 methyl glucose</td><td> 3%</td><td> 3%</td><td> 3%</td>
<td>sesquistearate (Glucamate SSE 20) Demineralized water</td><td> 19%</td><td> 19%</td><td> 19%</td>
<td>Phase C NYLON-12 (ORGASOL)</td><td> 2%</td><td> 2%</td><td></td>
<td>spherical particles) Polyamide fibers</td><td> 10%</td><td> 10%</td><td> 10 %</td>
<td>(Nylon-66) (Polyamide 0.9 Dtex, 0.3 mm - Paul Society</td><td></td><td></td><td></td>
ES 2 265 025 T3
<td>Bonte</td><td></td><td></td><td></td>
<td>Phase D Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate (Hostacerin AMPS by clariant)</td><td> 0,2 %</td><td> 0,2 %</td><td> 0,2%</td>
<td>Quality of</td><td>-creamy, final and</td><td>-fluid,</td><td>- creamy and</td>
<td>composition obtained</td><td>flexible</td><td>slips between the fingers</td><td>fine.</td>
<td></td><td>- Easy application</td><td>- formation of balls of the</td><td>In relation to ex. 1:</td>
<td></td><td>- Deposit</td><td>composition in</td><td>- more fibers</td>
<td></td><td>homogeneous</td><td>the application</td><td>resistant on the skin, - more difficult application, - Deposit less homogeneous.</td>
Operating mode: Phases A1 and A2 were heated separately (approximately 70 ° C) with stirring and then mixed. Similarly, phases B1 and B2 were heated separately (approximately 70 ° C) under stirring and then mixed. The mixture of B1 and B2 was then poured into the mixture of A1 and A2 with stirring. Phase D was then added and homogenized.
All three compositions have a white fibrous texture. The test showed the advantage of the composition according to the invention, which does not form pellets when applied to the skin and provides a more homogeneous and easier deposit than the compositions of the comparative examples.
Contents9
13 members in 7 offices
Priority claims5
| Document | Office | Kind | Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0103767 | France | A | |
| 0103767 | France | A | |
| 20010003767 | France | – | |
| 022905360103767 | – | – | – |
| FR20010003767 | – | – | – |
Members13
| Document | Office | Kind | |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP1243251A1 | European Patent Office (EPO) | A1 | |
| JP2002275032A | Japan | A | |
| FR2822375A1 | France | A1 | |
| US2002192250A1 | United States of America | A1 | |
| FR2822375B1 | France | B1 | |
| EP1243251B1 | European Patent Office (EPO) | B1 | |
| AT326937T | Austria | T | |
| ATE326937T1 | Austria | T1 | |
| DE60211580D1 | Germany | D1 | |
| ES2265025T3This record | Spain | T3 | |
| DE60211580T2 | Germany | T2 | |
| JP4298956B2 | Japan | B2 | |
| US7780971B2 | United States of America | B2 |
Numbers
- Publication
- 2265025
- Publication, DOCDB
- 2265025
- Publication, EPODOC
- ES2265025T
- Application
- 2290536
- Application, DOCDB
- 02290536
- Application, EPODOC
- ES20020290536T
Titles2
- Spanish
- COMPOSICION QUE CONTIENE FIBRAS Y SUS USOS PARTICULARMENTE EN COSMETICOS.
- English
- COMPOSITION THAT CONTAINS FIBERS AND THEIR USES PARTICULARLY IN COSMETICS.
Classification
- CPC, 13
- A61Q19/00
- A61K8/025
- A61K8/027
- A61K8/06
- A61K8/062
- A61K8/8158
- A61K8/88
- A61Q1/10
- A61Q5/00
- A61Q19/001
- A61K2800/651
- A61K2800/654
- A61K8/0262
- IPC, 23
- A61K8 00
- A61K8 06
- A61K8 25
- A61K8 29
- A61K8 37
- A61K8 39
- A61K8 60
- A61K8 64
- A61K8 65
- A61K8 73
- A61K8 81
- A61K8 88
- A61K8 89
- A61K8 891
- A61K8 92
- A61Q1 00
- A61Q1 02
- A61Q1 04
- A61Q1 10
- A61Q1 14
- A61Q5 00
- A61Q19 00
- C08L83 04