Wax-in-water emulsion including the combination of a glutamic acid derivative and an alkyl polyglycoside.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion and comprising at least one derivative of glutamic acid and / or one of its salts and minus an alkylpolyglycoside.

The composition according to the invention may be a makeup or care composition for keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair. It is more particularly a composition for making up keratin fibers.

More specifically, the composition according to the invention is a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes, also called "mascara". It may be a makeup composition, a cosmetic base coating composition also called a "base coat", a composition to be applied to a cosmetic base coating composition, also called a "top coat" . The mascara is more particularly intended for the eyelashes of human beings, but also for false eyelashes.

Among the formulations of mascaras, the so-called “mascaras emulsions” or “washable mascaras” are known in particular, consisting of a wax or mixture of waxes dispersed using at least one surfactant in an aqueous phase, containing by elsewhere water-soluble polymers and pigments.

The loading character of mascaras, represented by the thickness of the deposit on the eyelash, is also a property often sought in order to emphasize the look, to make it more intense.

For “washable” type mascaras, the principle for obtaining a volumizing or charging effect consists in depositing the maximum amount of material on the eyelashes.

It is in particular through the quantity of solid particles which make it possible to structure the composition, that the specific application characteristics sought for the compositions can be adjusted, such as for example their fluidity or consistency, as well as their thickening power, also called power. charging or making up.

These solid particles, and in particular the waxes, are generally dispersed using a surfactant system. The choice of surfactant system is paramount in obtaining a stable dispersion and high consistency, insofar as the surfactants play an important role at the interface in the interactions between wax particles within the formula.

Thus, it is known, for example, that the use of nonionic surfactants alone, not associated with ionic surfactants, does not make it possible to obtain dispersions of high consistency, and therefore does not lead to obtaining sufficiently heavy mascaras. In fact, the texture obtained with nonionic surfactants alone being too fluid, the amount of material deposited on the eyelashes is low.

Among the conventional surfactants or surfactant systems making it possible to lead to mascaras having a satisfactory charging power, it is known in particular the surfactant systems based on triethanolamine stearate, used in combination or not with other surfactants.

However, tertiary, secondary and primary alkanoamines are less and less recommendable in terms of toxicity.

Consequently, there remains the need to provide cosmetic compositions for coating keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, free of triethanolamine or of its derivatives, and having a satisfactory loading power, making it possible in particular to produce a thick make-up of keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, still says charging makeup.

The object of the present invention is precisely to meet this need.

The document <patcit id="pcit0001" dnum="WO02056940A"><text>WO 02/056940</text></patcit> relates to foaming compositions containing an emulsifying mixture comprising an acylated amino acid, in particular cocoacyl glutamate and an alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside.

The document <patcit id="pcit0002" dnum="EP0773017A"><text>EP 0 773 017</text></patcit> teaches cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsions, in particular lotions and creams, having improved stability over time and under high temperature conditions, comprising the mixture of a C-alkylpolyglycoside₁₆-VS₂₂, a C fatty alcohol₁₆-VS₂₂ and an acylglutamate.

As emerges from the examples presented below, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to obtain a wax-in-water emulsion having good charging properties, by using an emulsifying system comprising at least one acid derivative glutamic acid and / or one of its salts and at least one alkylpolyglycoside.

More specifically, the inventors have observed that the combination of at least one glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts and at least one alkylpolyglycoside makes it possible to obtain a stable dispersion of a large quantity of waxes , the quality of those obtained with emulsifier systems based on triethanolamine stearate.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term keratin fibers covers the hair, the eyelashes and the eyebrows, and also extends to synthetic hairpieces and false eyelashes.

A “wax-in-water emulsion” is intended to denote, within the meaning of the present invention, a composition comprising at least one wax or mixture of waxes dispersed with at least one surfactant in a continuous aqueous phase.

By "stable" is meant within the meaning of the present invention, a composition which, after having been placed in an oven at 45 ° C for two months, does not present, after returning to room temperature, grains perceptible to the touch when a thin layer of the composition is sheared between the fingers.

Thus, the invention relates, according to one of its aspects, to a composition for coating keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion, and comprising the combination of at least one derivative of glutamic acid and / or a salt thereof and at least one alkylpolyglycoside, the said wax or waxes being distinct from fatty alcohols, in particular fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, a composition in accordance with the invention can comprise less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of triethanolamine or its derivatives, and better still, be free of triethanolamine or its derivatives.

In a particularly advantageous manner, a composition of the invention may comprise a content of waxes greater than or equal to 15%, preferably greater than or equal to 18%, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition.

By the high content of waxes which it can incorporate, a composition according to the invention thus has a sufficiently thick texture to obtain a filling, volumizing deposit on the eyelashes.

According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention have viscosities, measured at room temperature with Rheomat 180, of between 2 and 25 Pa.s.

More precisely, the viscosities are measured at 25 ° C. using a Rheomat 180 (LAMY company) equipped with a mobile MS-R1, MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 chosen in depending on the consistency of the composition, rotating at a rotation speed of 200 rpm. The measurement is taken after 10 min of rotation. The viscosity measurements are carried out at most 1 week after the preparation of the composition.

Such viscosity values ​​reflect a high consistency of the compositions according to the invention, particularly suitable for making up the eyelashes, promoting in particular an easy application to the eyelashes as well as obtaining a smooth and homogeneous deposit.

According to another of its aspects, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up and / or non-therapeutic care of keratin fibers, in particular of the eyelashes, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as described above.

The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above, for obtaining on the keratin fibers, in particular on the eyelashes, a loading makeup.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "charging" is intended to qualify the concept of thick make-up of the eyelashes.

<u>GLUTAMIC ACID DERIVATIVE</u>

The emulsifying system of a composition according to the invention comprises at least one derivative of glutamic acid and / or one of its salts.

The glutamic acid salt and / or derivative can for example be chosen from acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid), their salts (glutamates) and their mixtures, preferably from acyl glutamic acids in which the acyl group comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example acids lauroyl glutamic, myristoyl glutamic, palmitoyl glutamic, stearoyl glutamic, behenoyl glutamic, olivoyl glutamic, cocoyl glutamic and the alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, the alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or the ammonium salts of said acids.

Mention may in particular be made of the compounds bearing the name INCI lauroyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate and their mixtures.

Such compounds are marketed under the name AMISOFT by the company AJINOMOTO and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or even marketed by the company Keminova Italiana SRL.

As the glutamic acid derivative salt, mention may also be made of disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate such as that sold under the reference Amisoft HS-21 by the company AJINOMOTO.

Mention may also be made of commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative or a salt of said derivative such as, for example, the mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-22 marketed by AJINOMOTO.

According to a particular embodiment, the mono-sodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid is used, more particularly that sold by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference Amisoft HS 11.

The glutamic acid derivative (s) and / or their salts may be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the glutamic acid derivative (s) and / or their salts is (are) present in the fatty phase or alternatively in the aqueous phase, and advantageously in the aqueous phase.

<u>ALKYLPOLYGLYCOSIDE</u>

The emulsifying system of a composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant of the alkylpolyglycoside type.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "alkylpolyglycoside" means an alkylmonooside (degree of polymerization 1) or alkylpolyoside (degree of polymerization greater than 1).

The alkylpolyglycosides can be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkylpolyglycosides. They generally respond to the following structure:          R (O) (G)_xin which the radical R is a linear or branched C alkyl radical₁₂-VS₂₂, G is a saccharide residue and x varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5 and more preferably from 1.1 to 2.

The saccharide residue can be chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucane, cellulose or starch. More preferably, the saccharide residue denotes glucose.

It should also be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide part of the alkylpolyglycoside can be in isomeric form α or β, in form L or D and the configuration of the saccharide residue can be of the furanoside or pyranoside type.

It is of course possible to use mixtures of alkylpolyosides, which may differ from one another by the nature of the alkyl unit carried and / or the nature of the carrier polysaccharide chain.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the alkylpolyglycoside can be used in mixture with at least one fatty alcohol, in particular a fatty alcohol having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as described later in the paragraph "co-surfactants".

In addition, it is particularly advantageous, according to the present invention, to jointly use a fatty alcohol and an alkylpolyglycoside, the alkyl part of which is identical to that of the fatty alcohol retained.

The fatty alcohol / alkylpolyglycoside emulsifier mixtures as defined above are known as such. They are described in particular in the requests<patcit id="pcit0003" dnum="WO9206778A"><text>WO 92/06778</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0004" dnum="WO9513863A"><text>WO 95/13863</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0005" dnum="WO9847610A"><text>WO 98/47610</text></patcit> and prepared according to the preparation methods indicated in these documents.

Among the particularly preferred fatty alcohol / alkylpolyglycoside mixtures, mention may be made of the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names MONTANOV^® such as the following mixtures:<ul id="ul0001" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>Cetylstearyl alcohol / Cocoglucoside - MONTANOV 82^®,</li><li>Arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidylglucoside - MONTANOV 802^®,</li><li>Myristyl alcohol / Myristylglucoside - MONTANOV 14 ^®,</li><li>Cetylstearyl alcohol / Cetylstearylglucoside - MONTANOV 68 ^®,</li><li>C alcohol₁₄-VS₂₂/VS₁₂-VS₂₀ alkylglucoside - MONTANOV L ^®,</li><li>Cocoalcohol / Coco-glucoside - MONTANOV S ^®, and</li><li>Isostearyl alcohol / Isostearylglucoside - MONTANOV WO 18^®.</li></ul>

According to a particular embodiment, the alkylpolyglycoside used in a composition according to the invention is cetylstearyl glucoside. It is advantageously used in the form of a mixture with cetylstearyl alcohol, also called cetearyl alcohol.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearylglucoside mixture is thus used, sold by the company SEPPIC under the name MONTANOV 68^®, consisting of approximately 20% cetylstearyl glucoside and approximately 80% cetylstearyl alcohol.

The fatty alcohol / alkylpolyglycoside mixture can be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

More particularly, the alkylpolyglycoside type surfactant can be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.2 to 2%, preferably from 0.3 to 1.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition in accordance with the invention may comprise said alkylpolyglycoside and said glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof in an alkylpolyglycoside / glutamic acid derivative weight ratio greater than or equal to 0.2 , advantageously greater than or equal to 0.3, in particular less than 2, and more particularly less than 1.6.

In the particular case where the alkylpolyglycoside is used in combination with at least one fatty alcohol as described above, in particular a fatty alcohol having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, a composition of the invention can then advantageously comprise said mixture of alkylpolyglycoside and fatty alcohol and said derivative of glutamic acid and / or a salt thereof in a weight ratio (alkylpolyglycoside + fatty alcohol) / derivative of glutamic acid greater than or equal to 2, advantageously greater than or equal to 2.5, in particular less than 10, and more particularly less than 8.

According to a particular embodiment, the emulsifying system of a composition according to the invention comprises the combination of mono-sodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid, more particularly that sold by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference Amisoft HS 11; with a mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearyl glucoside, more particularly that sold sold by the company SEPPIC under the name MONTANOV 68^®.

According to a particular embodiment, the combination according to the invention of a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts and of an alkylpolyglycoside, can constitute the main surfactant system of the composition.

By "main surfactant system" is meant a system which, in its absence, does not lead to the formation of a stable composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the combination according to the invention derived from glutamic acid and / or one of its salts / alkylpolyglycoside, can constitute the sole surfactant system of the composition.

By “unique” is meant that any optional additional surfactant system is present in a content not exceeding 1%, and preferably not exceeding 0.5%. More preferably, by "unique" means a total absence of any other surfactant system.

The compositions according to the invention naturally include a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with an application to keratin materials, in particular to the eyelashes.

<u>Aqueous phase</u>

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase, which forms the continuous phase of the wax-in-water emulsion of the invention.

By composition with an aqueous continuous phase is meant that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C., greater than or equal to 23 μS / cm (microSiemens / cm), the conductivity being measured for example using a conductivity meter. MPC227 by Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity measuring cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, so as to eliminate the air bubbles which may form between the 2 electrodes of the cell. The conductivity is read as soon as the value of the conductivity meter has stabilized. An average is carried out on at least 3 successive measurements.

The aqueous phase comprises water and / or at least one water-soluble solvent.

By “water-soluble solvent”, is meant in the present invention a compound liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 atoms of carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C ketones₃-VS₄ and C aldehydes₂-VS₄.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) is generally present in the composition according to the present application in a content ranging from 30% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 40% to 80% by weight, and preferably ranging from 45% to 60% by weight.

<u>Raincoats</u>

The compositions according to the invention generally comprise a wax or a mixture of waxes, in the form of an aqueous dispersion of wax particles.

As previously specified, a wax-in-water emulsion according to the invention may comprise at least 15% by weight in waxes, preferably at least 18% by weight, and even more preferably at least 20% by weight in waxes, relative the total weight of the composition.

The wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C which can go up to 120 ° C, with the exception of fatty alcohols, as described below, in particular fatty alcohols having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

By bringing the wax to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained in the oils in the mixture.

In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than approximately 45 ° C., and in particular greater than 55 ° C.

The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A 15 mg sample of product placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 0 ° C to 120 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 120 ° C to 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from 0 ° C to 120 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the product sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of the temperature.

The waxes capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and their mixtures.

The wax can also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa, and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 ° C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm. moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

The measurement protocol is as follows:<ul id="ul0002" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 ° C. The melted wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C) for 24 hours, then the wax is stored for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C before carrying out the hardness measurement. The hardness value is the maximum compression force measured divided by the surface area of ​​the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.</li></ul>

It is possible in particular to use hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, ouricurry wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, japan wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters.

Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, at C₈-VS₃₂.

Among these, mention may in particular be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di- tetrastearate trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di- (trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.

It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names of Phytowax ricin 16L64^® and 22L73^® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in the application<patcit id="pcit0006" dnum="FR2792190A"><text>FR-A- 2792190</text></patcit>.

It is also possible to use silicone waxes which can advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at low melting point. These are in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes consisting essentially (apart from the terminal groups) of units of formulas II and III, in the respective molar proportions m and n:<chemistry id="chem0001" num="0001"><img file="EP2248508A2_D0001.tif" /></chemistry>in which :<ul id="ul0003" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>each substituent R is defined as above,</li><li>each R 'independently represents an alkyl (linear or branched) optionally unsaturated, having 6-30 carbon atoms, or else a group -XR ", each X independently representing:          -O-,          - (CH₂)_at-O-CO-,          - (CH₂)_b-CO-O-, a and b independently represent numbers which can vary from 0 to 6, and</li><li>each R "independently represents an alkyl group, optionally unsaturated, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,</li><li>m is a number which can vary from 0 to 400, and in particular from 0 to 100,</li><li>n is a number which can vary from 1 to 200, and in particular from 1 to 100,</li></ul>the sum (m + n) being less than 400, and in particular less than or equal to 100.

These silicone waxes are known or can be prepared according to known methods. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, there may be mentioned in particular those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC ).

The silicone waxes which can be used can also be chosen from the compounds of formula (IV) below:          R₁-If (CH₃)₂-O- [If (R)₂-O-] z-Si (CH₃)₂-R₂     (IV) in which :<ul id="ul0004" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>R is defined as above,</li><li>R₁ represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or a group of formula:<chemistry id="chem0002" num="0002"><img file="EP2248508A2_D0002.tif" /></chemistry></li><li>R₂ represents an alkyl group of 6 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms or a group of formula:<chemistry id="chem0003" num="0003"><img file="EP2248508A2_D0003.tif" /></chemistry>a and b representing a number from 0 to 6, R "being an alkyl having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and z is a number which can vary from 1 to 100.</li></ul>

Among the silicone waxes of formula (IV), mention may in particular be made of alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C₂₀-VS₆₀) alkyldimethicones, in particular the (C₃₀-VS₄₅) alkyldimethicones such as silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.

It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified by silicone or fluorinated groups such as for example: siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax from Koster Keunen.

The waxes can also be chosen from fluorinated waxes.

According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention can comprise at least one so-called sticky wax, that is to say having a stickiness greater than or equal to 0.7 Ns and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.

The use of a sticky wax can in particular make it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition which is easily applied to the eyelashes, having good adhesion to the eyelashes and which leads to the formation of a smooth, uniform and thickening make-up .

The sticky wax used may in particular have a tack ranging from 0.7 Ns to 30 Ns, in particular greater than or equal to 1 Ns, in particular ranging from 1 Ns to 20 Ns, in particular greater than or equal to 2 Ns, in particular ranging from 2 Ns to 10 Ns, and in particular ranging from 2 Ns to 5 Ns

The stickiness of the wax is determined by measuring the evolution of the force (compression force or stretching force) as a function of time, at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name "TA-TX2i^® »By the company RHEO, equipped with a mobile in acrylic polymer in the shape of a cone forming an angle of 45 °.

The measurement protocol is as follows:<ul id="ul0005" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10 ° C. The melted wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, then the wax is stored for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C before measuring the tights.</li></ul>

The mobile of the texturometer is moved at the speed of 0.5 mm / s, then enters the wax to a penetration depth of 2 mm. When the mobile has entered the wax to the depth of 2 mm, the mobile is held fixed for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then removed at the speed of 0.5 mm / s.

During the relaxation time, the force (compression force) decreases sharply until it becomes zero, then, when the mobile is removed, the force (stretching force) becomes negative and then increases again towards the value 0. The tights corresponds to the integral of the force curve as a function of time for the part of the curve corresponding to the negative values ​​of the force (stretching force). The value of the tights is expressed in Ns

The sticky wax that can be used generally has a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, or even ranging from 0, 1 MPa to 2.5 MPa.

The hardness is measured according to the protocol described above.

As a sticky wax, it is possible to use a C 4 alkyl hydroxystearyloxy stearate.₂₀-VS₄₀ (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, in particular a C 12- (12'-hydroxystearyloxy) stearate₂₀-VS₄₀.

Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P^® "And" Kester Wax K 80 P^® »By the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

The waxes mentioned above generally have a starting melting point below 45 ° C.

The wax (es) can be present in the form of an aqueous microdispersion of wax. The term “aqueous wax microdispersion” is understood to mean an aqueous dispersion of wax particles, in which the size, expressed in mean “effective” diameter by volume D [4.3], of said wax particles is less than or equal to approximately 1 μm

Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, and are described in particular in <nplcit id="ncit0001" npl-type="b"><text>"Microemulsions Theory and Practice", LM Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pages 21-32</text></nplcit>.

In particular, these wax microdispersions can be obtained by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and optionally part of the water, then progressive addition of hot water with stirring. The intermediate formation of an emulsion of the water-in-oil type is observed, followed by a phase inversion with final production of a microemulsion of the oil-in-water type. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid colloidal wax particles is obtained.

The wax microdispersions can also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using stirring means such as ultrasound, high pressure homogenizer, turbines.

The particles of the wax microdispersion preferably have mean dimensions of less than 1 μm (in particular ranging from 0.02 μm to 0.99 μm), preferably less than 0.5 μm (in particular ranging from 0.06 μm to 0 , 5 µm).

These particles consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes. They may, however, in a minor proportion comprise oily and / or pasty fatty additives, a surfactant and / or a usual fat-soluble additive / active.

<u>Pasty compounds</u>

The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one pasty compound.

By “pasty compound” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic fatty compound with change of solid state / reversible liquid and comprising at the temperature of 23 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23 ° C., represents from 20 to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C. more preferably represents from 25 to 85%, and better still from 30 to 60% by weight of the pasty compound.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to go from the solid state to the state it presents at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to bring the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32 ° C., preferably represents from 40 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound, better still from 50 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32 ° C, is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

The pasty compound preferably has a hardness at 20 ° C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.

The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Rhéo) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder of 2 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20 ° C in the center of 5 samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample, the penetration depth being 0.3 mm. The recorded value of the hardness is that of the maximum peak.

The pasty compound can be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from:<ul id="ul0006" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines,</li><li>polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds such as polydimethysiloxanes of high molecular weights, polydimethysiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular stearyl dimethicones,</li><li>polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds,</li><li>vinyl polymers, in particular<ul id="ul0007" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>olefin homopolymers,</li><li>olefin copolymers,</li><li>homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes,</li><li>linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C alkyl group₈-VS₃₀,</li><li>homo oligomers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C alkyl groups₈-VS₃₀,</li><li>homo oligomers and copolymers of vinyl ethers having C alkyl groups₈-VS₃₀,</li><li>liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C diols₂-VS₁₀₀, preferably in C₂-VS_50,</li></ul></li><li>esters and polyesters,</li><li>and their mixtures.</li></ul>

The pasty compound may be a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon-based polymer.

A preferred silicone and fluorinated pasty compound is polymethyl-trifluoropropyl-methylalkyl-dimethylsiloxane, manufactured under the name X22-1088 by SHIN ETSU.

When the pasty compound is a silicone and / or fluorinated polymer, the composition advantageously comprises a compatibilizing agent such as short chain esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, mention may in particular be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with C alkylene oxides₆-VS₃₀. Preferably, the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of block copolymers comprising blocks of C alkylene oxides₆-VS₃₀ having a molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecylene glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol ethers (45 oxyethylene or OE units) sold under the brand ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred:<ul id="ul0008" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular esters of diglycerol, in particular condensates of adipic acid and glycerol, for which a part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those sold in particular under the brand Softisan 649 by the company Sasol;</li><li>phytosterol esters;</li><li>pentaerythritol esters;</li><li>esters formed from:<ul id="ul0009" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>at least one C alcohol₁₆-₄₀, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol and</li><li>of a diacid dimer formed from at least one C-unsaturated fatty acid₁₈-₄₀,</li></ul></li></ul>as the dimer ester of tall oil fatty acids comprising 36 carbon atoms and of a mixture i) of Guerbet alcohols comprising 32 carbon atoms and ii) behenyl alcohol; the dimer ester of linoleic acid and of a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyl-octadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecyl-eicosanol (36 carbon atoms);<ul id="ul0010" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid or a polycarboxylic acid, linear or branched, at C₄-VS₅₀, and a C diol or polyol₂-VS₅₀ ;</li><li>the polyesters which result from the esterification between a polycarboxylic acid and an ester of aliphatic hydroxylated carboxylic acid such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H marketed by the Japanese company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, which are esters resulting from the reaction esterification of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid; and</li><li>aliphatic esters of ester resulting from the esterification between an ester of aliphatic hydroxylated carboxylic acid and an aliphatic carboxylic acid, for example that sold under the trade name Salacos HCIS (V) -L by the company Nishing Oil.</li></ul>

A Guerbet alcohol is the reaction product of the Guerbet reaction well known to those skilled in the art. It is a reaction transforming a primary aliphatic alcohol into its β-alkylated dimeric alcohol with loss of an equivalent of water.

The aliphatic carboxylic acids described above generally contain from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. They are preferably chosen from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The aliphatic carboxylic acids are preferably branched.

The esters of hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid advantageously come from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and better still from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The esters of hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid are in particular chosen from:<ol id="ol0001" compact="compact"><li>a) esters, partial or total, of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;</li><li>b) esters, partial or total, of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;</li><li>c) esters, partial or total, of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;</li><li>d) esters, partial or total, of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;</li><li>e) esters, partial or total, of C aliphatic polyols₂ at C₁₆ having reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acid,</li><li>f) and mixtures thereof.</li></ol>

The aliphatic esters of ester are advantageously chosen from:<ul id="ul0011" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions 1 to 1 (1/1), which is called hydrogenated castor oil monoisostearate,</li><li>the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions 1 to 2 (1/2), which is called the hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate,</li><li>the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions 1 to 3 (1/3), which is called the hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate,</li><li>and their mixtures.</li></ul>

Preferably, the pasty compound is chosen from compounds of plant origin.

Among these, there may be mentioned in particular isomerized jojoba oil such as partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50^®, orange wax like, for example, that which is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410), murumuru butter (murumuru butter from Beraca Sabara) , shea butter, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, cocoa butter, mango oil such as, for example, the Lipex 302 from Aarhuskarlshamn.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises shea butter.

The pasty compound (s) are preferably present in a greater amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

<u>Additional surfactants and co-surfactants</u>

The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the combination of surfactants according to the invention, at least one additional surfactant and / or at least one co-surfactant, in particular chosen in an appropriate manner for obtaining a wax emulsion -in water.

The additional surfactants can be chosen from anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. We can refer to the document<nplcit id="ncit0002" npl-type="b"><text>"Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", volume 22, p.333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY</text></nplcit>, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) ​​of the surfactants, in particular p.347-377 of this reference, for the anionic and nonionic surfactants.

The additional surfactants can be chosen from:<ol id="ol0002" compact="compact"><li>a) non-ionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C., used alone or as a mixture; we can cite in particular:<ul id="ul0012" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of glycerol;</li><li>oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular C alcohol₈-VS₂₄, and preferably in C₁₂-VS₁₈) such as the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-20") such as the BRIJ 78 sold by the company UNIQEMA, the oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups (name CTFA "Ceteareth-30") and the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C fatty alcohols₁₂-VS₁₅ containing 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "C_12-15 Pareth-7 "sold under the name" NEODOL 25-7 "^® by SHELL CHEMICALS);</li><li>fatty acid esters (especially C acid₈-VS₂₄, and preferably in C₁₆-VS₂₂) and polyethylene glycol (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units) such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the name MYRJ 52P by the company ICI UNIQUEMA;</li><li>fatty acid esters (especially C acid₈-VS₂₄, and preferably in C₁₆-VS₂₂) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold under the name "Simulsol 220 TM" by the company SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT S sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 groups of ethylene oxide such as the product TAGAT O sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT , polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product VARIONIC LI 13 sold by the company SHEREX, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT L sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 groups of ethylene oxide such as the product TAGAT I from the company GOLDSCHMIDT;</li><li>fatty acid esters (especially C acid₈-VS₂₄, and preferably in C₁₆-VS₂₂) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as polysorbate 60 sold under the name "Tween 60" by the company UNIQUEMA;</li><li>dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name "Q2-5220" by the company DOW CORNING;</li><li>dimethicone copolyol benzoate (FINSOLV SLB 101 and 201 from FINTEX);</li><li>the copolymers of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide, also called polycondensates OE / OP, such as for example the polyblock polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol polycondensates sold under the names "SYNPERONIC" such as "SYNPERONIC PE / L44" and "SYNPERONIC PE / F127" by the company ICI;</li></ul>and their mixtures.</li><li>b) non-ionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25 ° C, optionally combined with one or more non-ionic surfactants with an HLB of more than 8 at 25 ° C, such as:<ul id="ul0013" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>esters and ethers of oses such as sucrose stearates, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearate and their mixtures such as Arlatone 2121 sold by the company ICI;</li><li>fatty acid esters (in particular of C acid₈-VS₂₄, and preferably in C₁₆-VS₂₂) and polyol, in particular glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name TEGIN M by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312 by the company HULS , polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate;</li><li>oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers such as the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-2") such as BRIJ 72 sold by the company UNIQEMA;</li><li>the mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol sold under the name "Q2-3225C" by the company DOW CORNING.</li></ul></li><li>c) anionic surfactants such as:<ul id="ul0014" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>salts of C fatty acids₁₆-VS₃₀ in particular those derived from amines, such as triethanolamine stearate and / or amino-2-methyl-2-propane diol-1,3 stearate; but preferably the composition according to the present application comprises less than 1% of triethanolamine stearate;</li><li>the salts of polyoxyethylenated fatty acids, in particular those derived from amines or alkaline salts, and their mixtures;</li><li>phosphoric esters and their salts such as “DEA oleth-10 phosphate” (Crodafos N 10N from the company CRODA), cetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from the company DSM Nutritionnal Products);</li><li>sulfosuccinates such as "Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate" and "Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate";</li><li>alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;</li><li>isethionates;</li><li>acylglutamates such as “Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate” (AMISOFT HS-21 R sold by the company AJINOMOTO) and their mixtures.</li></ul></li></ol>

The composition in accordance with the invention may also contain, in addition to the glutamic acid derivative, one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acyl-amino acids such as N-alkyl-aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide or silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols phosphates such as that sold under the name PECOSIL PS 100^® by the company PHOENIX CHEMICAL.

According to a particular embodiment, the additional surfactant can be the glyceryl mono and / or distearate.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition in accordance with the invention comprises less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of triethanolamine or its derivatives, and better still, is free of triethanolamine or its derivatives.

The co-surfactants can in particular be chosen from fatty alcohols, preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. By fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms is meant any pure fatty alcohol, saturated or not, branched or not, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

As examples of fatty alcohols which can be used in combination with the alkylpolyglycoside (s) of the emulsifying system according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic origin, or even natural, such as for example, alcohols from plant materials (copra, palm kernel, palm, etc.) or animal materials (tallow, etc.). Of course, other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as for example ether alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols. Finally, it is also possible to use certain more or less long cuts of alcohol of natural origin, such as for example coconut (C₁₂ at C₁₆) or tallow (C₁₆ at C₁₈) or compounds such as diols or cholesterol.

Use is preferably made of a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

As particular examples of fatty alcohols which can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, palmitic, oleic, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol) , behenic, erucic, arachidylic and their mixtures. Cetearyl alcohol is preferably used.

Such fatty alcohols are sold in particular under the name NAFOL by the company SASOL.

As described above, these fatty alcohols can be used together with the alkylpolyglycoside (s) according to the invention, in commercially available fatty alcohol / alkylpolyglycoside mixtures, such as for example the mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol and cetylstearylglucoside sold by SEPPIC, under the reference MONTANOV 68^®.

The co-surfactant (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The overall content of surfactants in a composition of the invention can range from 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight.

<u>Film-forming polymer</u>

A composition according to the present invention can also comprise at least one film-forming polymer.

Among the film-forming polymers which can be used in the compositions of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and their mixtures.

By radical film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, in particular ethylenic, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

The film-forming polymers of the radical type can in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.

As monomer carrying an acid group, α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid can be used. Preferably (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.

The esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 alkyl₁-VS₃₀, preferably in C₁-VS₂₀, aryl (meth) acrylates, in particular C aryl₆-VS₁₀, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 4 hydroxyalkyl₂-VS₆.

Mention may be made, among alkyl (meth) acrylates, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate.

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, there may be mentioned benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

Particularly preferred esters of (meth) acrylic acid are alkyl (meth) acrylates.

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

As amides of the acid monomers, mention may, for example, be made of (meth) acrylamides, and in particular of N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of C2-C12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, there may be mentioned N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or from the copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

Examples of vinyl esters that may be mentioned include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

As styrene monomers, mention may be made of styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

The polyurethanes can be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethanes-acrylics, poly-urethanes-polyvinylpirrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and their mixtures.

The polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.

The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. As an example, such acids can be cited: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, l suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4- acid cyclohexanedicarboxylic, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen.

The diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols. Preferably, a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is used. As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane can be used.

The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As diamine, ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine can be used. As amino alcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

The polyester may also comprise at least one monomer carrying at least one -SO group.₃M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH₄⁺ or a metal ion, such as a Na ion⁺, Li⁺, K⁺, Mg²⁺, Ca²⁺, Cu²⁺, Fe²⁺, Fe³⁺. It is possible in particular to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO₃Mr.

The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer further carrying a group -SO₃M as described above can be chosen, for example, from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl, methylenediphenyl rings. As an example, a bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing an -SO group₃M: sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.

It is preferred to use isophthalate / sulfoisophthalate-based copolymers, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of di-ethylene glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.

The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, can be chosen from shellac resin, sandara gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer can be a water-soluble polymer and can then be present in the aqueous continuous phase of an emulsion according to the invention.

According to another variant, the film-forming polymer can be a polymer dissolved in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic oils or solvents such as those described below (it is then said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer). Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally in admixture with a non-volatile oil, the oils being able to be chosen from the oils mentioned below.

As an example of a liposoluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkylvinyl ether (in which the alkyl group contains from 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allylic or methallylic ester (having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group).

These copolymers can be crosslinked using crosslinkers which can be either of the vinyl type, or of the allylic or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate. divinyl.

As examples of these copolymers, mention may be made of the copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinyl ether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, propionate vinyl / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethylvinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene , vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0, 2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene.

As liposoluble film-forming polymers, mention may also be made of liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

Such liposoluble copolymers can be chosen from copolymers of vinyl polystearate, of vinyl polystearate crosslinked with the aid of divinylbenzene, of diallylether or of diallyl phthalate, of copolymers of poly (meth) acrylate of stearyl, of vinyl polylaurate , poly (meth) acrylate, these poly (meth) acrylates which can be crosslinked using ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol. 1.

The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in the application. <patcit id="pcit0007" dnum="FR2232303A"><text>FR-A-2232303</text></patcit> ; they can have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.

Mention may also be made of liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 2 to 24 atoms of carbon.

As examples of liposoluble homopolymers, there may be mentioned in particular: vinyl polylaurate and lauryl poly (meth) acrylates, these poly (meth) acrylates being capable of being crosslinked using ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol .

According to an advantageous embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer vinyl polylaurate.

As liposoluble film-forming polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C alkenes₂-VS₂₀, like polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated at C₁ at C₈ such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C alkene₂ at C₄₀ and better in C₃ at C₂₀. By way of example of a VP copolymer which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

Mention may also be made of silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomer units which it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those which are marketed by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK, and by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L.

As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate resins (TMS) such as those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by the company Dow Corning.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of silicone resins such as those mentioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers sold by the company Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA and described in the document. <patcit id="pcit0008" dnum="US5162410A"><text>US 5,162,410</text></patcit> or else the silicone copolymers resulting from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and of a diorganosiloxane as described in the document <patcit id="pcit0009" dnum="WO2004073626A"><text>WO 2004/073626</text></patcit>.

It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in the documents. <patcit id="pcit0010" dnum="US5874069A"><text>US-A-5,874,069</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0011" dnum="US5919441A"><text>US-A-5,919,441</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0012" dnum="US6051216A"><text>US-A-6,051,216</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0013" dnum="US5981680A"><text>US-A-5,981,680</text></patcit>.

These silicone polymers can belong to the following two families:<ul id="ul0015" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or</li><li>polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.</li></ul>

According to one embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer is a linear film-forming ethylenic block polymer, which preferably comprises at least a first block and at least a second block having different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second blocks being linked together by an intermediate block comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block.

Advantageously, the first and second blocks and the block polymer are incompatible with each other.

Such polymers are described for example in documents <patcit id="pcit0014" dnum="EP1411069A"><text>EP 1 411 069</text></patcit> or <patcit id="pcit0015" dnum="WO04028488A"><text>WO 04/028488</text></patcit>.

The film-forming polymer can also be present in a composition of the invention in the form of particles in dispersion in an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

As the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, use may be made of the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90^®, Neocryl A-1070^®, Neocryl A-1090^®, Neocryl BT-62^®, Neocryl A-1079^® and Neocryl A-523^® by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, Dow Latex 432^® by the company DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD^® or Daitosol 5000 SJ^® by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760^® by the company Interpolymer, Allianz OPT by the company ROHM &amp; HAAS, the aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene / acrylic polymers sold under the brand name JONCRYL^® by JOHNSON POLYMER or aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names Neorez R-981^® and Neorez R-974^® by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, the Avalure UR-405^®, Avalure UR-410^®, Avalure UR-425^®, Avalure UR-450^®, Sancure 875^®, Sancure 861^®, Sancure 878^® and Sancure 2060^® by the company GOODRICH, Impranil 85^® by BAYER, Aquamere H-1511^® by the company HYDROMER; sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ^® by Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomer PAM^® from CHIMEX and their mixtures.

As examples of non-aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer, mention may be made of acrylic dispersions in isododecane such as the Mexomer PAP^® from the company CHIMEX, the dispersions of particles of a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably acrylic, in a liquid fatty phase, the ethylenic polymer being advantageously dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizer on the surface of the particles as described in particular in the document <patcit id="pcit0016" dnum="WO04055081A"><text>WO 04/055081</text></patcit>.

A composition according to the invention may also further comprise a plasticizing agent promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizing agent can be chosen from all the compounds known to a person skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function.

<u>Gelling agents</u>

A composition of the invention can also comprise at least one hydrophilic or water-soluble gelling agent.

As hydrophilic or water-soluble gelling agents, there may be mentioned:<ul id="ul0016" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters and in particular the products sold under the names "VERSICOL F" or "VERSICOL K" by the company ALLIED COLLOID, "UTRAHOLD 8" by the company CIBA- GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of SYNTHALEN K type,</li><li>the copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names "RETEN" by the company HERCULES, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name "DARVAN N ° 7" by the company VANDERBILT, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name "HYDAGEN F" by the company HENKEL,</li><li>polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers of the PEMULEN type,</li><li>AMPS (polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) sold by the company Clariant,</li><li>the AMPS / acrylamide copolymers of the SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type sold by the company SEPPIC, and</li><li>AMPS / polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or not) and their mixtures.</li></ul>

As other examples of water-soluble gelling polymers, mention may be made of:<ul id="ul0017" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as wheat proteins, soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins;</li><li>anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;</li><li>cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose;</li><li>vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam copolymers; polyvinyl alcohol;</li><li>associative polyurethanes such as the polymer C16-OE120-C16 from the company SERVO DELDEN (marketed under the name SER AD FX1100, molecule with urethane function and average molecular weight by weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylenated unit, Rheolate 205 to urea function sold by the company RHEOX or even Rheolate 208 or 204 (these polymers being sold in pure form) or DW 1206B from RHOM &amp; HAAS with C alkyl chain₂₀ and urethane bond, sold at 20% dry matter in water. It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes, in particular in water or in an alcoholic medium. As examples of such polymers, mention may be made of SER AD fx1010, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD 1070 of the company SERVO DELDEN, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company RHEOX. One can also use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J, as well as Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from the company RHOM &amp; HAAS, or even Borchigel LW 44 from the company BORCHERS,</li><li>polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as:</li><li>gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum;</li><li>alginates and carrageenans;</li><li>glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives;</li><li>shellac resin, sandara gum, dammars, elemis, copals;</li><li>deoxyribonucleic acid;</li><li>muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitins sulfate, and mixtures thereof.</li></ul>

Some of the water-soluble film-forming polymers mentioned above can also play the role of water-soluble gelling agent.

The hydrophilic gelling agents can be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 20% and better still from 0.5 at 15% by weight.

<u>Oils and organic solvents</u>

The compositions according to the present application can also contain at least one or more oils or organic solvents.

By “oil or organic solvent”, within the meaning of the request, is meant a non-aqueous body liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

The oil can be chosen from volatile oils and / or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

The oil or oils may be present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

By "volatile oil" is meant within the meaning of the invention an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and volatile oils of the invention are volatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0, 13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10^-3 at 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

In particular, the volatile oils are chosen from oils having an evaporation rate greater than or equal to 0.002 mg / cm²/ min. The evaporation rate being measured as follows:<ul id="ul0018" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>Is introduced into a crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance located in an enclosure of about 0.3 m³ regulated in temperature (25 ° C) and in hygrometry (relative humidity 50%) 15 g of oil or mixture of oils to be tested.</li></ul>

The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without agitating it, ensuring ventilation by a fan (rotation speed 2700 rpm and dimensions 80X80X42 mm, for example the reference 8550 N from PAPST-MOTOREN, the flow rate corresponds to about 50 m³/ hour) arranged vertically above the crystallizer containing the solvent, the blades being directed towards the crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer.

The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. Evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit area (cm²) and per unit of time (minute).

The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil which remains on the keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

These oils can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular the branched C alkanes₈-VS₁₆ like C isoalkanes₈-VS₁₆ of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Peutyls, the branched esters at C₈-VS₁₆, iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company SHELL, can also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

As volatile oils, volatile silicones can also be used, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8.10^-6 m²/ s), and in particular having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisil tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane.

The composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile organic oil or solvent, and in particular chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone oils and / or fluorinated oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, there may be mentioned in particular:<ul id="ul0019" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as fatty acid and glycerol triesters, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths from C₄ at C₂₄, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oil almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,</li><li>synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;</li><li>linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parlameam, squalane, and their mixtures;</li><li>synthetic esters such as oils of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R₁ + R₂ or ≥ 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C alcohol benzoate₁₂ at C₁₅, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;</li><li>fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;</li><li>higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;</li><li>carbonates,</li><li>acetals,</li><li>citrates,</li><li>and their mixtures.</li></ul>

The non-volatile silicone oils which can be used in the composition according to the invention can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

The fluorinated oils which can be used in the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in the document <patcit id="pcit0017" dnum="EP847752A"><text>EP-A-847752</text></patcit>.

<u>Coloring matters</u>

The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one coloring material, chosen for example from pigments, nacres, dyes, effect materials and their mixtures.

These coloring materials can be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pigments useful in the present invention may be in the form of powder or pigment paste.

By “dyes”, it is necessary to understand compounds, generally organic, soluble in at least one oil or in a hydroalcoholic phase.

The term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.

By "nacres" or pearlescent pigments, it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The pigment may be an organic pigment. By organic pigment is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment can in particular be chosen from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

The organic pigment (s) can be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization indole derivatives, phenolic as described in the patent <patcit id="pcit0018" dnum="FR2679771"><text>FR 2 679 771</text></patcit>.

These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in the patent <patcit id="pcit0019" dnum="EP1184426A"><text>EP 1,184,426</text></patcit>. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

The pigment can also be a lacquer. The term “lacquer” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D &amp; C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D &amp; C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D &amp; C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D &amp; C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D &amp; C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D &amp; C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D &amp; C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D &amp; C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D &amp; C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D &amp; C Green (CI 61 570), D &amp; C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D &amp; C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D &amp; C Blue 1 ( CI 42,090).

Mention may be made, as examples of lakes, of the product known under the following name: D &amp; C Red 7 (CI 15 850: 1).

The pigment can be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue , titanium dioxide. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta₂O₅ Ti₃O₅, Ti₂O₃, TiO, ZrO₂ mixed with TiO₂, ZrO₂, Nb₂O₅ CeO₂, ZnS.

The pigment can also be a special effect pigment. The term “special effect pigments” is intended to mean pigments which generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain liveliness and a certain clarity) which is not uniform and which varies according to the conditions of observation (light, temperature , viewing angles, etc.). They are therefore opposed to white or colored pigments which provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent classic shade.

There are two types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, and those with a high refractive index such as nacres or glitter.

As special effect pigments, there may be mentioned pearlescent pigments such as white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

Mention may also be made of pigments with an interference effect not fixed on a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are substances which fluoresce in daylight or which produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by Quantum Dots Corporation.

Quantum dots are luminescent semiconductor nanoparticles capable of emitting, under light excitation, radiation having a wavelength between 400 nm and 700 nm. These nanoparticles are known from the literature. In particular, they can be manufactured according to the methods described for example in the<patcit id="pcit0020" dnum="US6225198B"><text>US 6,225,198</text></patcit> or <patcit id="pcit0021" dnum="US5990479A"><text>US 5,990,479</text></patcit>, in the publications cited therein, as well as in the following publications: <nplcit id="ncit0003" npl-type="s"><text>Dabboussi BO et al "(CdSe) ZnS core-shell quantum dots: synthesis and characterization of a size series of highly luminescent nanocrystallites" Journal of phisical chemistry B, vol 101, 1997, pp 9463-9475</text></nplcit>. and<nplcit id="ncit0004" npl-type="s"><text>Peng, Xiaogang et al, “Epitaxial Growth of highly Luminescent CdSe / CdS core / shell nanocrystals with photostability and electronic accessibility” Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol 119, N ° 30, pp 7019-7029</text></nplcit>.

Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are substances which fluoresce in daylight or which produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments.

The pigment can also be a pearlescent pigment such as white pearlescent pigments for example mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated titanium and especially ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. By way of example, mention may be made of the Cellini pigments sold by Engelhard (Mica-TiO₂-laque), Prestige marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO₂), Colorona marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO₂-Fe₂O₃).

In addition to nacres on a mica support, one can consider multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium borosilicate and sodium or calcium borosilicate and aluminum, and aluminum.

The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 μm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 μm

The pigments can be dispersed in the product thanks to a dispersing agent.

The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent can be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can physically or chemically cling to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also have at least one functional group which is compatible or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, the esters of 12-hydroxy stearic acid in particular and of C fatty acid are used.₈ at C₂₀ and of polyol such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly (12-hydroxystearic) acid stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g / mole such as that sold under the name of Solsperse 21,000 by the company Avecia, polygyceryl -2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures.

As another dispersant which can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17,000 sold by the company Avecia, mixtures of poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.

The polydihydroxystearic acid and the esters of hydroxy12-stearic acid are preferably intended for a hydrocarbon or fluorinated medium, while the mixtures of oxyethylene / oxypropylene dimethylsiloxane are preferably intended for a silicone medium.

<u>Coated pigments</u>

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the composition comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic compound, said pigment being chosen in particular from organic pigments, composite pigments, lakes and mineral pigments, as described above.

The coating can also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

Within the meaning of the invention, the “coating” of a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted on said pigment.

The surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanical-chemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

According to a variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of solid particles.

The coating can represent from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

The coating can be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surfactant on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surfactant, optionally hot, before incorporating the particles into the others ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid particles of pigment and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is notably described in the patent<patcit id="pcit0022" dnum="US4578266A"><text>US 4,578,266</text></patcit>.

The chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, in dispersing the pigments in this mixture, then in slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface pigments.

<u>Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent</u>

When the pigment comp makes a lipophilic coating, the latter is present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebaçate; natural plant or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.

<i>Silicone surfactant</i>

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be treated on the surface totally or partially with a compound of silicone nature.

The silicone surfactants can be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

By organopolysiloxane compound is meant a compound having a structure comprising an alternation of silicone atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals bonded to silicon atoms.

i) Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane

Mention may in particular be made, as non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsilo xanes.

The alkoxy group can be represented by the radical RO- such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

One method of treating pigments on the surface with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane consists in dispersing the pigments in an organic solvent, then in adding the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.

According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant can be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, in particular chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes.

ii) Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes

Alkane-functional silanes are especially described by <nplcit id="ncit0005" npl-type="s"><text>Witucki in "A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxy silanes, Journal of Coatings technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993"</text></nplcit>.

Alkoxysilanes such as the alkyltriethoxysilanes and the alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the references Silquest A-137 (OSI Specialties) and Prosil 9202 (PCR) can be used for coating the pigments.

The use of alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive terminal group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino or imino are described in the application. <patcit id="pcit0023" dnum="JPH07196946B"><text>JP H07-196946</text></patcit>. They are also suitable for the treatment of pigments.

iii) Silicone-acrylate polymers

Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone as described in the patents <patcit id="pcit0024" dnum="US5725882A"><text>US 5,725,882</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0025" dnum="US5209924A"><text>US 5,209,924</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0026" dnum="US4972037A"><text>US 4,972,037</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0027" dnum="US4981903A"><text>US 4,981,903</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0028" dnum="US4981902A"><text>US 4,981,902</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0029" dnum="US5468477A"><text>US 5,468,477</text></patcit>, and in patents <patcit id="pcit0030" dnum="US5219560A"><text>US 5,219,560</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0031" dnum="EP0388582A"><text>EP 0 388 582</text></patcit>, can be used.

Other silicone-acrylate polymers can be silicone polymers comprising in their structure the following motif of formula (I):<chemistry id="chem0004" num="0004"><img file="EP2248508A2_D0004.tif" /></chemistry>in which the radicals G₁, identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C 1 alkyl radical₁-VS₁₀ or a phenyl radical; the radicals G₂, identical or different, represent a C alkylene group₁-VS₁₀ ; G₃ represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one anionic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation; G₄ represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer; m and n are 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 and 50; b is an integer which can be between 10 and 350, c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0.

Preferably, the motif of formula (I) above has at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics:<ul id="ul0020" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>the radicals G₁ denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical;</li><li>n is not zero, and the radicals G₂ represent a divalent radical in C₁-VS₃, preferably a propylene radical;</li><li>G₃ represents a polymer radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid type containing ethylenic unsaturation, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; and</li><li>G₄ represents a polymer radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the alkyl (meth) acrylate type (C₁-VS₁₀), preferably of the isobutyl or methyl (meth) acrylate type.</li></ul>

Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting link, mixed polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and of the poly (meth) acrylate type.

Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting link, polymeric units of the poly (meth) acrylate type. isobutyl.

iv) Silicone resins

The silicone surfactant can be chosen from silicone resins.

By "resin" is meant a three-dimensional structure.

Silicone resins can be soluble or swellable in silicone oils. These resins are polymers of crosslinked polyorganosiloxanes.

The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomer units which it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH₃)₃SiO_1/2, the silicon atom being linked to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

The letter D signifies a difunctional unit (CH₃)₂SiO_2/2 in which the silicon atom is linked to two oxygen atoms.

The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (CH₃) SiO_3/2 .

In the units M, D, T defined above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted by a group R different from the methyl group such as a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or alternatively a hydroxyl group.

Finally, the letter Q means a tetra functional SiO unit_4/2 in which the silicon atom is linked to four hydrogen atoms themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.

Various resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the type and number of substituted radicals, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and size of the hanging chains.

By way of example of these silicone resins, there may be mentioned:<ul id="ul0021" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>siloxysilicates which may be trimethylsiloxysilicate of formula [(CH₃)₃XSiXO]_xX (SiO_4/2)_y (units MQ) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80,</li><li>the polysilesquioxanes of formula (CH₃SiO_3/2)_.x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and in which at least one of the methyl radicals can be substituted by a group R as defined above,</li><li>polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in the document<patcit id="pcit0032" dnum="US5246694A"><text>US 5,246,694</text></patcit> whose content is incorporated by reference.</li></ul>

As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those which are marketed:<ul id="ul0022" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units CH₃SiO_3/2 (T units), which can also include up to 1% by weight of units (CH₃)₂SiO_2/2 (units D) and having an average molecular weight of approximately 10,000,</li><li>by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH₃SiO_3/2 and have Si-OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or also under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups.</li></ul>

As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate resins (TMS) optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the references SR1000, .E. 1 170-002 or SS 4230, by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC or under the references TMS 803, WACKER 803 and 804 by the company WACKER SILICONE CORPORATION.

Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by the company Dow Corning.

By way of example of commercial references of pigments treated with a silicone compound, there may be mentioned:<ul id="ul0023" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>red iron oxide / dimethicone sold under the reference SA-C 338075-10 by the company Miyoshi Kasei,</li><li>a pigment obtained by treatment of DC Red 7 with a silicone compound, sold by the company Coletica under the reference Gransil GCM (which is a mixture of D5 and of polysilicone 11).</li></ul>

<i>Fluorinated surfactant</i>

The pigments can be totally or partially surface treated with a compound of fluorinated nature.

The fluorinated surfactants can be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylene (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyeth groups.

The term “perfluoroalkyl radical” means an alkyl radical in which all of the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in the patent application <patcit id="pcit0033" dnum="EP486135A"><text>EP-A-486135</text></patcit>, and sold under the trade names FOMBLIN by the company MONTEFLUOS.

Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are described in particular in the application. <patcit id="pcit0034" dnum="JPH0586984B"><text>JP H05-86984</text></patcit>. The perfluoroalkyl phosphate-diethanolamine sold by Asahi Glass under the reference AsahiGuard AG530 can be used.

Among the linear perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, aromatic perfluorocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and organo-perfluorocarbon compounds comprising at least one heteroatom.

Among the perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of the series of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), mention may be made of perfluorodecaline sold under the name "FLUTEC PP5 GMP" by the company RHODIA, perfluoro (methyldecaline), perfluoro (C3-C5 alkyl-cyclohexanes) such as perfluoro (butylcyclohexane).

Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes there may be mentioned the derivatives of bicyclo [3.3.1] nonane such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo [3.3.1] nonane, the derivatives of adamantane such as perfluorodimethyladamantane and the perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosafluoro-tetradene .

Among the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of perfluorinated naphthalene derivatives such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphththalene.

By way of example of commercial references of pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, there may be mentioned:<ul id="ul0024" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>Yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601 by the company Daito Kasei,</li><li>Red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L by the company Daito Kasei,</li><li>Black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BL 100 by the company Daito Kasei,</li><li>Titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 TiO2 CR 50 by the company Daito Kasei,</li><li>Yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference Iron oxide yellow BF-25-3 by the company Toshiki,</li><li>DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference D&amp;C Red 7 FHC by the company Cardre Inc.,</li><li>The DC Red 6 / PTFE sold under the reference T 9506 by the company Warner - Jenkinson.</li></ul>

<i>Fluorosilicone surfactant</i>

The pigments can be totally or partially surface treated with a compound of fluoro-silicone nature.

The fluoro-silicone compound can be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialcoxysilanes.

Mention may be made, as perfluoroalkyl silanes, of the products LP-IT and LP-4T marketed by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

Perfluoroalkyl dimethicones can be represented by the following formula:<chemistry id="chem0005" num="0005"><img file="EP2248508A2_D0005.tif" /></chemistry>in which :<ul id="ul0025" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group,</li><li>Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical, having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms,</li><li>m is chosen between 0 to 150, preferably from 20 to 100, and</li><li>n is chosen between 1 to 300, preferably from 1 to 100.</li></ul>

By way of example of commercial references of pigment treated with a fluoro-silicone compound, mention may be made of titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium dioxide 100TA by the company Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc.

<i>Other lipophilic surfactants</i>

The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be chosen from:<ul id="ul0026" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate;</li></ul>

Mention may in particular be made, as metallic soaps, of metallic soaps of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

The metal of the metallic soap can in particular be zinc or magnesium. As the metallic soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate and mixtures thereof can be used.

The fatty acid can in particular be chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid.<ul id="ul0027" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>N-acylated amino acids or their salts which may include an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.</li></ul>

The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The salts of these compounds can be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium salts.

Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid can in particular be a derivative of glutamic acid and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example stearoyl glutamate. aluminum.<ul id="ul0028" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>lecithin and its derivatives,</li><li>isopropyl triisostearyl titanate,</li></ul>

Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the commercial reference BWBO-I2 (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-I2 (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWRO-I2 (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company KOBO.<ul id="ul0029" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>isostearyl sebaçate,</li><li>natural vegetable or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes,</li><li>fatty esters, in particular by jojoba esters;</li><li>phospholipids; and their mixtures.</li></ul>

The waxes mentioned in the compounds mentioned above can be those generally used in the cosmetic field, as defined below.

They can in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

By polar wax is meant a wax containing chemical compounds comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; it may, for example, be an alcohol, ester or carboxylic acid group. The polar waxes do not include polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, Fisher-Tropsch waxes.

In particular, polar waxes have an average solubility parameter dA of HANSEN at 25 ° C such that dA&gt; 0 (J / cm³)^1/2 and better dA&gt; 1 (J / cm³)^1/2. <maths id="math0001"><math display="block"><msub><mi>δ</mi><mi>at</mi></msub><mo>=</mo><msqrt><msubsup><mi>δ</mi><mi>p</mi><mn>2</mn></msubsup><mo>+</mo><msubsup><mi>δ</mi><mi>b</mi><mn>2</mn></msubsup></msqrt></math><img file="EP2248508A2_D0006.tif" /></maths>where dP and dH are respectively the polar and interaction-specific contributions specific to the Hansen solubility parameters.

The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to HANSEN is described in the article by CM HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967);<ul id="ul0030" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>dH characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);</li><li>dP characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.</li></ul>

The parameters dP and dH are expressed in (J / cm³)½.

A polar wax is in particular made up of molecules comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N, P).

By way of nonlimiting illustration of these polar waxes, mention may be made in particular of natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and insect waxes. China; rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax.

The pigments coated according to the invention with at least one lipophilic compound may be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 1 at 15% by weight.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be coated with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; fatty esters; and their mixtures.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a derivative of glutamic acid and / or one of its salts, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, such as, for example, aluminum stearoyl glutamate, or by a fatty ester, in particular by a jojoba ester.

As examples of pigments coated according to the invention, there may be mentioned more particularly the following compounds:<ul id="ul0031" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>Coated iron oxide coated with stearoyl glutamate, for example sold by the company MIYOSHI under the reference "NAI-C33-7001-10"</li><li>Iron oxide coated with jojoba esters, for example sold by the company KOBO under the reference "BWBO-NJE2"; and</li><li>Titanium dioxide and iron oxide, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example sold under the reference NAI by MIYOSHI KASEI.</li></ul>

<u>Charters</u>

The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one filler.

The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, silica treated on the surface with a hydrophobic agent, kaolin, polyamide powders (nylon^®) (Orgasol^® from Atochem), poly-ß-alanine and polyethylene, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon^®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel^® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap^® from Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls^® from Toshiba, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads^® of Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

It is also possible to use a compound capable of swelling under heat and in particular heat-expandable particles such as the unexpanded microspheres of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate copolymer or of acrylonitrile homopolymer copolymer such as for example those sold respectively under the Expancel references^® 820 DU 40 and Expancel^®007WU by AKZO NOBEL.

The fillers can represent from 0.1 to 25%, in particular from 0.2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

<u>Fibers</u>

The compositions according to the invention can also comprise at least one fiber, allowing in particular an improvement of the lengthening effect.

By “fiber”, it is necessary to understand an object of length L and of diameter D such that L is greater than D, and preferably, much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the fiber section is inscribed . In particular, the L / D ratio (or form factor) is chosen from the range going from 3.5 to 2500, preferably from 5 to 500, and better still from 5 to 150.

The fibers which can be used in the composition of the invention can be fibers of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin. They can be short or long, unitary or organized, for example braided, hollow or solid. Their shape can be any and in particular of circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal) according to the specific application envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunt and / or polished to avoid injury.

In particular, the fibers have a length ranging from 1 μm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and better still from 0.3 mm to 3 mm. Their section can be included in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μm, preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 μm and better still from 1 μm to 50 μm. The weight or title of the fibers is often given in denier or decitex and represents the weight in grams for 9 km of yarn. Preferably, the fibers according to the invention have a titer chosen from the range going from 0.01 to 10 denier, preferably from 0.1 to 2 denier and better still from 0.3 to 0.7 denier.

The fibers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibers, they can be of synthetic or natural origin, mineral or organic.

Furthermore, the fibers may or may not be treated on the surface, coated or not, colored or non-colored.

As fibers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibers such as polyamide fibers (nylon^®) or rigid fibers such as polyimide-amide fibers such as those sold under the names KERMEL^®, KERMEL TECH^® by RHODIA or poly- (p-phenylene-terephthalamide) (or aramid), in particular sold under the name Kevlar ^® by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS.

The fibers can be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.3 to 3% by weight.

A composition of the invention may also comprise any cosmetic active agent such as the active agents chosen from antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, bactericidal or antiperspirant active agents, neutralizers, emollients, moisturizers, thickeners, agents coalescence, plasticizers, vitamins, especially sun filters, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition envisaged. .

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed off.

The composition according to the invention can be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment which comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closing element.

The container is preferably associated with an applicator, in particular in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles held by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is described in particular in the patent<patcit id="pcit0035" dnum="US4887622A"><text>US 4,887,622</text></patcit>. It can also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application elements, obtained in particular by molding. Such combs are described for example in the patent<patcit id="pcit0036" dnum="FR2796529"><text>FR 2 796 529</text></patcit>. The applicator can be secured to the container, as described for example in the patent<patcit id="pcit0037" dnum="FR2761959"><text>FR 2,761,959</text></patcit>. Advantageously, the applicator is secured to a rod which, itself, is secured to the closure element.

The closure element can be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is done other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fastening, or by tightening. By “snap-fastening” is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the non-elastically stressed position of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

The container can be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. As examples of thermoplastic materials, mention may be made of polypropylene or polyethylene.

Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy).

The container is preferably equipped with a wringer disposed near the opening of the container. Such a wringer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly, the rod of which it may be integral. Such a wringer is described for example in the patent<patcit id="pcit0038" dnum="FR2792618"><text>FR 2 792 618</text></patcit>.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples which are presented by way of non-limiting illustration of the invention.

<u>EXAMPLES</u>

Example 1

<tables id="tabl0001" num="0001"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="3"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="11mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="132mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="24mm" /><thead><row><entry align="center" valign="top" /><entry align="center" valign="top"><b>Compounds / commercial references</b></entry><entry align="center" valign="top"><b>% by mass</b></entry></row></thead><tbody><row><entry morerows="5" align="center" valign="middle"><b>AT</b></entry><entry align="center">Black iron oxide</entry><entry align="center">4</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Xanthan gum</entry><entry align="center">0,6</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Laponite (mixed magnesium / lithium / sodium silicate)</entry><entry align="center">0,6</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Deionized water</entry><entry align="center">58,8</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Denatured absolute ethyl alcohol</entry><entry align="center">8</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Monosodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (sold under the reference Amisoft HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO)</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">1</entry></row><row><entry morerows="1" align="center" valign="middle"><b>B</b></entry><entry align="center">Deodorized organic beeswax</entry><entry align="center">22</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl alcohols, stearyl (20/80) (sold under the reference MONTANOV 68 ^® by SEPPIC)</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">5</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col2" align="center"><b>TOTAL</b></entry><entry align="center">100</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>

<b><u>Procedure</u> :</b> The thickening agents, the glutamate surfactant and the colorants are dispersed with stirring in the aqueous phase. Phase A thus formed is then brought to 90 ° C. Then phase A is poured into fatty phase B containing the waxes and the glucoside surfactant at 90 ° C. The emulsion is produced by stirring using a Moritz stirrer.

The emulsion is then cooled to 60 ° C. with rotor-stator stirring, then with slow stirring using a flat blade to 25 ° C.

The wax-in-water emulsion thus obtained has a pH of 6.7, and a viscosity measured the day after its preparation, at 25 ° C., with a Rheomat 180 device from the company Lamy equipped with a mobile MS-R4. , after 10 minutes of rotation at a speed of 200 rpm-1, 5.4 Pa.s.

Example 2

<tables id="tabl0002" num="0002"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="3"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="11mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="132mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="24mm" /><thead><row><entry align="center" valign="top" /><entry align="center" valign="top"><b>Compounds / commercial references</b></entry><entry align="center" valign="top"><b>% by mass</b></entry></row></thead><tbody><row><entry morerows="6" align="center" valign="middle"><b>AT</b></entry><entry align="center">Black iron oxide</entry><entry align="center">7</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Xanthan gum</entry><entry align="center">0,2</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Gum arabic</entry><entry align="center">3</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Glycerol</entry><entry align="center">3</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Sodium dehydroacetate</entry><entry align="center">0,5</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Deionized water</entry><entry align="center">52,1</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Monosodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid sold under the reference Amisoft HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">1</entry></row><row><entry morerows="3" align="center" valign="middle"><b>B</b></entry><entry align="center">Deodorized organic beeswax</entry><entry align="center">14</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Organic Carnauba wax</entry><entry align="center">8</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl alcohols, stearyl (20/80) (sold under the reference MONTANOV 68 ^®by SEPPIC)</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">3</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Glyceryl mono / distearate</entry><entry align="center">3</entry></row><row><entry morerows="1" align="center" valign="middle"><b>VS</b></entry><entry align="center">Sorbic acid</entry><entry align="center">0,2</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Denatured absolute ethyl alcohol 96 degrees</entry><entry align="center">5</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col2" align="center">TOTAL</entry><entry align="center">100</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>

Phase C consisting of the mixture of sorbic acid and ethyl alcohol is added to the mixture of phases A and B.

The composition is prepared as indicated in example 1. Its viscosity measured the following day according to the protocol described in example 1 is 7.6 Pa.s.

Example 3

<tables id="tabl0003" num="0003"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="3"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="11mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="132mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="24mm" /><thead><row><entry align="center" valign="top" /><entry align="center" valign="top"><b>Compounds / commercial references</b></entry><entry align="center" valign="top"><b>% by mass</b></entry></row></thead><tbody><row><entry morerows="6" align="center" valign="middle"><b>AT</b></entry><entry align="center">Black iron oxide</entry><entry align="center">5</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Xanthan gum</entry><entry align="center">0,2</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Gum arabic</entry><entry align="center">3</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Glycerol</entry><entry align="center">3,8</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Sodium dehydroacetate</entry><entry align="center">0,5</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Deionized water</entry><entry align="center">51,3</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Monosodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid sold under the reference Amisoft HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">1</entry></row><row><entry morerows="3" align="center" valign="middle"><b>B</b></entry><entry align="center">Deodorized organic beeswax</entry><entry align="center">14</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Organic Carnauba wax</entry><entry align="center">8</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl alcohols, stearyl (20/80) (sold under the reference MONTANOV 68 ^®by SEPPIC)</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">5</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Glyceryl mono / distearate</entry><entry align="center">3</entry></row><row><entry morerows="1" align="center" valign="middle"><b>VS</b></entry><entry align="center">Sorbic acid</entry><entry align="center">0,2</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Denatured absolute ethyl alcohol 96 degrees</entry><entry align="center">5</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col2" align="center"><b>TOTAL</b></entry><entry align="center">100</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>

The composition is prepared as indicated in examples 1 and 2. Its viscosity measured the following day according to the protocol described in example 1 is 8.3 Pa.s.

Example 4

<tables id="tabl0004" num="0004"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="3"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="12mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="131mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="24mm" /><thead><row><entry align="center" valign="top" /><entry align="center" valign="top"><b>Compounds / commercial references</b></entry><entry align="center" valign="top"><b>% by mass</b></entry></row></thead><tbody><row><entry morerows="5" align="center" valign="middle">AT</entry><entry align="center">Monosodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid sold under the reference Amisoft HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">0,7</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Xanthan gum</entry><entry align="center">0,6</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Gum arabic</entry><entry align="center">3</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Glycerol</entry><entry align="center">3</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Sodium dehydroacetate</entry><entry align="center">0,5</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Deionized water</entry><entry align="center">56,6</entry></row><row><entry morerows="7" align="center" valign="middle"><b>B</b></entry><entry align="center">Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (3%)^(at)</entry><entry align="center">5</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Candelilla wax</entry><entry align="center">3</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Shea Butter</entry><entry align="center">1</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Pure vegetable oil of Argan</entry><entry align="center">0,1</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Deodorized organic beeswax</entry><entry align="center">8,7</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Organic Carnauba wax</entry><entry align="center">6,3</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl alcohols, stearyl (20/80) (sold under the reference MONTANOV 68 ^®by SEPPIC)</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">2,1</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Glyceryl mono / distearate</entry><entry align="center">4,2</entry></row><row><entry morerows="1" align="center" valign="middle"><b>VS</b></entry><entry align="center">Sorbic acid</entry><entry align="center">0,2</entry></row><row><entry align="center">Denatured absolute ethyl alcohol 96 degrees</entry><entry align="center">5</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col2" align="center">TOTAL</entry><entry align="center">100</entry></row></tbody></tgroup><tgroup cols="3" rowsep="0"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="12mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="131mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="24mm" /><tbody><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col3" align="justify">^(at) NAI-C33-7001-10 from Miyoshi</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>

The composition is prepared as indicated in examples 1 and 2. Its viscosity measured the following day according to the protocol described in example 1 is 8.5 Pa.s.

All the compositions of Examples 1 to 4 have a satisfactory loading power, making it possible to obtain a thick make-up of the eyelashes.

Example 5

This example aims to demonstrate the synergy obtained by the simultaneous presence of a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts and an alkylpolyglycoside.<tables id="tabl0005" num="0005"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="4"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="42mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="42mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="42mm" /><colspec colnum="4" colname="col4" colwidth="42mm" /><tbody><row><entry morerows="6" align="center" valign="middle"><b>Composition</b></entry><entry align="center"><b>A (comparative)</b></entry><entry align="center"><b>B (invention)</b></entry><entry align="center"><b>C (comparative)</b></entry></row><row><entry>5 % MONTANOV 68^® (SEPPIC)</entry><entry>4 % MONTANOV 68^® (SEPPIC)</entry><entry /></row><row><entry /><entry>1 % Glutamate ^(b)</entry><entry>5 % Glutamate ^(b)</entry></row><row><entry>30 % Phytowax olive 18L57 (SOPHIM)</entry><entry>30 % Phytowax olive 18L57 (SOPHIM)</entry><entry>30 % Phytowax olive 18L57 SOPHIM</entry></row><row><entry>0.6% Xanthan gum</entry><entry>0.6% Xanthan gum</entry><entry>0.6% Xanthan gum</entry></row><row><entry>0.6% Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate</entry><entry>0.6% Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate</entry><entry>0.6% Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate</entry></row><row><entry>QS water</entry><entry>QS water</entry><entry>QS water</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col4" align="center"><b>Results</b></entry></row><row><entry align="center"><b>Macroscopic aspect</b></entry><entry>Paper mache paste, not smooth</entry><entry>Beautiful cream, thick, waxy, shiny and smooth</entry><entry>Thick, shiny and smooth cream</entry></row><row><entry align="center"><b>Commentary on microscopic observation</b></entry><entry>Very coarse dispersion of waxes</entry><entry>Dispersion of waxes and gels. Homogeneous dispersion</entry><entry>Presence of gels. Heterogeneous dispersion</entry></row></tbody></tgroup><tgroup cols="4" rowsep="0"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="42mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="42mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="42mm" /><colspec colnum="4" colname="col4" colwidth="42mm" /><tbody><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col4" align="justify">^(b) Amisoft HS 11 by AJINOMOTO</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>

This comparative test demonstrates the advantageous effect obtained by the simultaneous presence of a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts and of an alkylpolyglycoside. Thus, it is observed that this association makes it possible to obtain a dispersion which is both fine and homogeneous of the waxes.