Cosmetic composition based on a cationic surfactant, a fatty alcohol, a cationic non-silicone polymer and a diol
25 claims: 14 independent, 11 dependent
- 1Composition cosmétique, notamment capillaire, caractérisée en ce qu' elle comprend, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, au moins un tensioactif cationique choisi parmi les sels d'ammonium quaternaire, au moins un alcools gras, éventuellement oxyéthyléné ou glycérolé au moins un polymère cationique non siliconé et au moins un diol ayant 6 atomes de carbone, la concentration totale en alcool(s) gras étant supérieure ou égale à 4% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition le rapport des concentrations en poids tensioactif cationique/diol étant supérieur ou égal à 1.
- 2Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que les sels d'ammonium quaternaire sont choisis parmi :- ceux qui présentent la formule générale (V) suivante : dans laquelle les symboles R1 à R4, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, représentent un radical aliphatique, linéaire ou ramifié, comportant de 1 à 30 atomes de carbone, ou un radical aromatique tel que aryle ou alkylaryle ;X- est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, phosphates, acétates, lactates, alkyl(C2-C6)sulfates, alkyl- ou alkylarylsulfonates ;- les sels d'ammonium quaternaire de l'imidazoline de formule (VI) suivante : dans laquelle R5 représente un radical alcényle ou alkyle comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, R6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4 ou un radical alcényle ou alkyle comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, R7 représente un radical alkyle en C1-C4 , R8 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4, X est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, phosphates, acétates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl-ou-alkylarylsulfonates, - les sels de diammonium quaternaire de formule (VII) : dans laquelle R9 désigne un radical aliphatique comportant de 16 à 30 atomes de carbone, R10, R11, R12, R13 et R14, identiques ou différents sont choisis parmi l'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle comportant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, et X- est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, acétates, phosphates, nitrates, éthylsulfates et méthylsulfates ;- les sels d'ammonium quaternaire contenant au moins une fonction ester, de formule (VIII) suivante : dans laquelle : R15 est choisi parmi les radicaux alkyles en C1-C6 et les radicaux hydroxyalkyles ou dihydroxyalkyles en C1-C6 ;R16 est choisi parmi : - le radical - les radicaux R20 hydrocarbonés en C1-C22, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, - l'atome d'hydrogène, R17 est choisi parmi : - le radical - les radicaux R22 hydrocarbonés en C1-C6, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, - l'atome d'hydrogène, R17, R19 et R21, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les radicaux hydrocarbonés en C7-C21, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés ;r, n et p, identiques ou différents, sont des entiers valant de 2 à 6 ;y est un entier valant de 1 à 10 ;x et z, identiques ou différents, sont des entiers valant de 0 à 10 ;X- est un anion simple ou complexe, organique ou inorganique ;sous réserve que la somme x + y + z vaut de 1 à 15, que lorsque x vaut 0 alors R16 désigne R20 et que lorsque z vaut 0 alors R18 désigne R22.
- 3Composition selon la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce que le composé de formule (VIII) est choisi parmi les sels de diacyloxyéthyl-diméthylammonium, de diacyloxyéthyl-hydroxyéthyl-méthylammonium, de monoacyloxyéthyl-dihydroxyéthyl-méthylammonium, de triacyloxyéthylméthylammonium, de monoacyloxyéthyl-hydroxyéthyl-diméthylammonium et leurs mélanges.
- 4Composition selon la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce que le tensioactif de formule (V) est choisi parmi les sels de dipalmitoyléthylhydroxyéthylméthylammonium, les sels de béhényltriméthylammonium, de distéaryldiméthylammonium, de cétyl triméthylammonium, de benzyldiméthylstéarylammonium, les sels de palmitylamidopropyltriméthylammonium, les sels de stéaramido propyl diméthyl-(myristylacétate)-ammonium.
- 5Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que le tensioactif cationique est choisi parmi le chlorure de béhényltriméthylammonium, le chlorure de cétyltriméthylammonium, le quaternium-83, le chlorure de béhénylamidopropyl 2,3-dihydroxypropyl diméthyl ammonium et le chlorure de palmitylamidopropyltriméthylammonium.
- 6Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le tensioactif cationique est présent dans la composition à une teneur allant de 0,01 à 10%, de préférence de 0,1 à 5%, et encore de préférence de 0,2 à 4% en poids du poids total de la composition.
- 7Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'alcool gras est linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé.
- 8Composition selon la revendication 7, caractérisé en ce que l'alcool gras présente la structure R-OH, dans laquelle R désigne un radical saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ou ramifié, comportant de 8 à 40 atomes de carbone et de préférence de 8 à 30.
- 9Composition selon la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce que l'alcool gras est choisi parmi l'alcool cétylique, l'alcool stéarylique, l'alcool oléique et leurs mélanges.
- 10Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'alcool gras est solide ou pâteux à température ambiante.
- 11Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'alcool gras est présent dans la composition à une teneur allant de 4 à 15%, de préférence de 4,5 à 10%, encore de préférence de 4,5 à 8 % en poids du poids total de la composition.
- 12Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le diol est choisi parmi l'hexanediol-1,6, le dipropylèneglycol et leurs mélanges.
- 13Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le diol est présent dans la composition à une teneur allant de 0,1 à 10%, de préférence de 0,25 à 5% et encore de préférence de 0,5 à 3% en poids du poids total de la composition.
- 14Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 13, caractérisée par le fait que le polymère cationique est choisi parmi :(1) les homopolymères ou copolymères dérivés d'esters ou d'amides acryliques ou méthacryliques et comportant au moins un des motifs de formules suivantes: dans lesquelles: R 3 , identiques ou différents, désignent un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical CH 3 ;A, identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, de préférence 2 ou 3 atomes de carbone ou un groupe hydroxyalkyle de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone ;R 4 , R 5 , R 6 , identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone ou un radical benzyle et de préférence un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone;R 1 et R 2 , identiques ou différents, représentent hydrogène ou un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone et de préférence méthyle ou éthyle;X désigne un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique tel que un anion méthosulfate ou un halogénure tel que chlorure ou bromure. (2) Les polysaccharides cationiques (3) les polymères constitués de motifs pipérazinyle et de radicaux divalents alkylène ou hydroxyalkylène à chaînes droites ou ramifiées, éventuellement interrompues par des atomes d'oxygène, de soufre, d'azote ou par des cycles aromatiques ou hétérocycliques, ainsi que les produits d'oxydation et/ou de quatemisation de ces polymères (4) les polyaminoamides solubles dans l'eau préparés en particulier par polycondensation d'un composé acide avec une polyamine ;(5) les dérivés de polyaminoamides résultant de la condensation de polyalcoylènes polyamines avec des acides polycarboxyliques suivie d'une alcoylation par des agents bifonctionnels (6) les polymères obtenus par réaction d'une polyalkylène polyamine comportant deux groupements amine primaire et au moins un groupement amine secondaire avec un acide dicarboxylique (7) les cyclopolymères d'alkyl diallyl amine ou de dialkyl diallyl ammonium (8) les polymères de diammonium quaternaire contenant des motifs récurrents répondant à la formule : formule (II) dans laquelle : R 13 , R 14 , R 15 et R 16 , identiques ou différents, représentent des radicaux aliphatiques, alicycliques, ou arylaliphatiques contenant de 1 à 20 atomes de carbone ou des radicaux hydroxyalkylaliphatiques inférieurs, ou bien R 13 , R 14 , R 15 et R 16 , ensemble ou séparément, constituent avec les atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés des hétérocycles contenant éventuellement un second hétéroatome autre que l'azote ou bien R 13 , R 14 , R 15 et R 16 représentent un radical alkyle en C1-C6 linéaire ou ramifié substitué par un groupement nitrile, ester, acyle, amide ou -CO-O-R 17 -D ou - CO-NH-R 17 -D où R 17 est un alkylène et D un groupement ammonium quaternaire ;A1 et B1 représentent des groupements polyméthyléniques contenant de 2 à 20 atomes de carbone pouvant être linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, et pouvant contenir, liés à ou intercalés dans la chaîne principale, un ou plusieurs cycles aromatiques, ou un ou plusieurs atomes d'oxygène, de soufre ou des groupements sulfoxyde, sulfone, disulfure, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyle, ammonium quaternaire, uréido, amide ou ester, et X - désigne un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique;A1, R13 et R15 peuvent former avec les deux atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés un cycle pipérazinique ;en outre si A1 désigne un radical alkylène ou hydroxyalkylène linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, B1 peut également désigner un groupement (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)n- dans lequel D désigne : a) un reste de glycol de formule : -O-Z-O-, où Z désigne un radical hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié ou un groupement répondant à l'une des formules suivantes : -(CH2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)- où x et y désignent un nombre entier de 1 à 4, représentant un degré de polymérisation défini et unique ou un nombre quelconque de 1 à 4 représentant un degré de polymérisation moyen ;b) un reste de diamine bis-secondaire tel qu'un dérivé de pipérazine;c) un reste de diamine bis-primaire de formule : -NH-Y-NH-, où Y désigne un radical hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, ou bien le radical bivalent -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2- ;d) un groupement uréylène de formule : -NH-CO-NH- ;X - est un anion (9) les polymères de polyammonium quaternaires comprenant des motifs de formule (III): formule dans laquelle : R 18 , R 19 , R 20 et R 21 , identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical méthyle, éthyle, propyle, β-hydroxyéthyle, β-hydroxypropyle ou -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p OH, où p est égal à 0 ou à un nombre entier compris entre 1 et 6, sous réserve que R 18 , R 19 , R 20 et R 21 ne représentent pas simultanément un atome d'hydrogène, r et s, identiques ou différents, sont des nombres entiers compris entre 1 et 6, q est égal à 0 ou à un nombre entier compris entre 1 et 34, X - désigne un anion tel qu'un halogènure, A désigne un radical d'un dihalogénure ou représente de préférence -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -. (10) Les polymères quaternaires de vinylpyrrolidone et de vinylimidazole , (11) Les polymères réticulés de sels de méthacryloyloxyalkyl(C1-C4) trialkyl(C1-C4)ammonium, (12) lesprotéines cationiques ou des hydrolysats de protéines cationiques, des polyalkylèneimines, , des polymères contenant des motifs vinylpyridine ou vinylpyridinium, des condensats de polyamines et d'épichlorhydrine, des polyuréylènes quaternaires et les dérivés de la chitine;
- 15Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que ledit polymère cationique est choisi parmi les cyclopolymères cationiques, les polymères quaternaires de vinylpyrrolidone et de vinylimidazole, les homopolymères ou copolymères réticulés de sels de méthacryloyloxyalkyl(C 1 -C 4 ) trialkyl(C 1 -C 4 )ammonium, et le pyrrolidone-carboxylate de chitosane et leurs mélanges.
- 16Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 12 à 15, caractérisée en ce que le ou les polymères cationiques représentent de 0,001 % à 20 % en poids, de préférence de 0,01 % à 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition finale.
- 17Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la composition comprend en outre une silicone, préférence une silicone aminée.
- 18Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée en ce que la silicone est choisie parmi les amodiméthicones et les triméthylsilylamodiméthicones, les silicones à groupements ammonium quaternaire.
- 19Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 17 et 18, caractérisée en ce que la silicone est présente dans la composition à une teneur allant de 0,01 à 6%, de préférence de 0,1 à 3%, et encore de préférence de 0,4 à 2% en poids du poids total de la composition.
- 20Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le milieu cosmétiquement acceptable est constitué par de l'eau ou par un ou plusieurs solvants cosmétiquement acceptables ou par des mélanges eau-solvant(s).
- 21Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée en ce que le solvant cosmétiquement acceptable est choisi parmi l'éthanol et l'isopropanol.
- 22Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu' elle contient en outre au moins un ou plusieurs additifs choisis parmi les parfums, les filtres UV, les tensioactifs non ioniques, anioniques, amphotères ou zwitterioniques, les conservateurs, les protéines, les vitamines, les provitamines, les polymères non ioniques, anioniques, amphotères ou zwitterioniques, les huiles minérales, végétales ou synthétiques, les agents antipelliculaires, les agents anti-chute, les colorants, les pigments, les réducteurs, les silicones, les cires végétales, les céramides, les polyols autres que ceux de l'invention.
- 23Utilisation d'une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 22 pour le traitement cosmétique des cheveux et du cuir chevelu.
- 24Procédé de traitement cosmétique des cheveux, caractérisé en ce qu' on applique sur les cheveux une composition cosmétique selon l'une des revendications 1 à 22.
- 25Procédé selon la revendication 24, caractérisé en ce que l'application s'effectue après un shampooing.
Independent claims25
102 paragraphs, as filed
The present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions, in particular hair compositions, comprising at least one particular cationic surfactant, at least one cationic polymer, at least one fatty alcohol, and at least one particular diol. It also relates to the use of these compositions in cosmetics, and in particular the use of these compositions as a conditioner.
Conventional conditioners comprising a cationic surfactant and fatty alcohols make it possible to obtain good cosmetic properties for the hair. However, the user sometimes has the feeling that his hair is heavy, not very light, and that it regreases easily, especially if his hair is fine, moreover for certain types of hair the cosmetic properties are not sufficient. In addition, the distribution of the product is sometimes difficult.
<patcit id="pcit0001" dnum="WO9962492A"><text>WO99 / 62492</text></patcit> describes hair conditioning compositions containing fatty alcohols, cationic surfactants, cationic polymers but not containing a diol having 6 carbon atoms.
The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that compositions comprising at least one particular cationic surfactant, at least one non-silicone cationic polymer, at least one or more fatty alcohols with a total concentration of fatty alcohol (s) greater than or equal to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one diol having 6 carbon atoms, made it possible to remedy the drawbacks mentioned above.
In particular, it found that these compositions allowed softening of the fiber, that is to say made the fiber less rough and more malleable.
It also found that during application, the compositions distributed and spread easily from roots to tips, and that rinsing was particularly easy.
Finally, she noted that these compositions imparted good cosmetic properties to the hair, and in particular the disentangling, the straightening, that the hair was light and regreased less quickly, and that the hair was shaped very easily, and durably.
The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one cationic surfactant chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, at least one non-silicone cationic polymer, at least one fatty alcohol, and at least one diol having 6 carbon atoms, the total concentration of fatty alcohol (s) being greater than or equal to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Another object of the invention relates to a cosmetic hair process using the compositions according to the invention.
The subject of the invention is also the use of the compositions according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment of the hair and scalp.
Another object of the invention is the use of the composition for conditioning keratin materials such as the hair.
Other characteristics, aspects, objects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.
By "at least one", we understand "one or more", that is to say one, two, three or more.
By "cosmetically acceptable medium" is meant a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, hair, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips and any other area of the body and face.
The cosmetically acceptable medium is preferably constituted by water or by one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents, preferably hydrophilic, or by water-solvent mixtures. These solvents are preferably alcohols and in particular monoalcohols, linear or branched in C1-C6, like ethanol, tertiobutanol, n-butanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.
The water or the mixture of water and cosmetically acceptable solvents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 30% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 60% to 90% by weight.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made of alkylpyridinium salts, imidazoline ammonium salts, quaternary diammonium salts, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function.
The cationic surfactants are preferably monomeric, that is to say that neither the cation nor the anion are oligomers or polymers.
Mention may in particular be made, as quaternary ammonium salts, for example:<ul id="ul0001" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>those which have the following general formula (V):<chemistry id="chem0001" num="0001"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0001.tif" /></chemistry>in which the symbols R1 to R4, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. Aliphatic radicals can contain heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic radicals are for example chosen from alkyl radicals, in particular C12-C22, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), alkylamide, alkyl (C12-C22) amidoalkyl (C2-C6), alkyl (C12-C22) acetate, hydroxyalkyl, having about 1 to 30 carbon atoms; X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C6) alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl sulfonates;</li><li>quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline such as, for example, those of formula (VI) below:<chemistry id="chem0002" num="0002"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0002.tif" /></chemistry>in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow or copra fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates. Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes methyl, R8 denotes hydrogen. Such a product is, for example, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997) sold under the names "REWOQUAT®" W 75, W90, W75PG, W75HPG by the company WITCO,</li><li>quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VII):<chemistry id="chem0003" num="0003"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0003.tif" /></chemistry>in which R9 denotes an aliphatic radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R10, R11, R12, R13 and R14, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates and methyl sulfates. Such quaternary diammonium salts include in particular propane diammonium dichloride;</li><li>quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (VIII) below:<chemistry id="chem0004" num="0004"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0004.tif" /></chemistry>in which : R15 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals; R16 is chosen from:<ul id="ul0002" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>The radical<chemistry id="chem0005" num="0005"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0005.tif" /></chemistry></li><li>linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C22 hydrocarbon radicals R20,</li><li>the hydrogen atom,</li></ul>R17 is chosen from:<ul id="ul0003" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>The radical<chemistry id="chem0006" num="0006"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0006.tif" /></chemistry></li><li>linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to C6 hydrocarbon radicals R22,</li><li>the hydrogen atom,</li></ul>R17, R19 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, n and p, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;</li></ul>provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R16 is R20 and that when z is 0 then R18 is R22.
The alkyl radicals R15 can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.
When R16 is a hydrocarbon radical R20, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R18 is a hydrocarbon radical R22, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R17, R19 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from C11-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are worth 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, n and p, identical or different, are worth 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl (C1-C4) sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. It is however possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium having an ester function.
The anion X- is even more particularly the chloride or the methyl sulphate.
More particularly used in the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (VIII) in which:<ul id="ul0004" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>R15 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical,</li><li>x and y are equal to 1;</li><li>z is 0 or 1;</li><li>r, n and pt are equal to 2;</li></ul>R16 is chosen from:<ul id="ul0005" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>The radical<chemistry id="chem0007" num="0007"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0007.tif" /></chemistry></li><li>methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon radicals,</li><li>the hydrogen atom;</li><li>R18 is chosen from:</li></ul><ul id="ul0006" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>The radical<chemistry id="chem0008" num="0008"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0008.tif" /></chemistry></li><li>the hydrogen atom;</li><li>R17, R19 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated .</li></ul>
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.
Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of formula (VIII) such as the salts (chloride or methyl sulphate in particular) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl -dimethylammonium and their mixtures. The acyl radicals preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly come from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radicals, these can be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methanesulfonate. methyl, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol hydrochloride.
Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company COGNIS, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-GOLDSCHMIDT.
The composition according to the invention may preferably contain a mixture of mono-, di- and triester quaternary ammonium salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.
As the mixture of ammonium salts, it is possible to use, for example, the mixture containing 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium methyl sulfate, 45 to 60% of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium methyl sulfate and 15 to 30% of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium methyl sulfate, the acyl radicals having from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and originating from palm oil which may be partially hydrogenated.
It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in the <patcit id="pcit0002" dnum="US4874554A"><text>US-A-4874554 patents</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0003" dnum="US4137180A"><text>US-A-4137180</text></patcit>.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above, it is preferred to use those corresponding to formula (V). Mention may in particular be made on the one hand, of the salts (and in particular the methosulphates) of dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, the salts (and in particular the chlorides) of tetraalkylammonium such as, for example, the salts (and especially the chlorides) of dialkyldimethylammonium or ammonium in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the salts (and in particular the chlorides) of behenyltrimethylammonium, of distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, the salts (and in particular the chlorides) of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or the salts (and especially the chlorides) of stearamidopropyldimethyl- (myristylacetate) -ammonium, and in particular stearamidopropyldristyl chloride acetate) -ammonium marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.
The cationic surfactants even more particularly preferred in the composition of the invention are chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, and in particular from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methosulfate, chloride cetyltrimethylammonium, quaternium-83, behenylamidopropyl 2,3-dihydroxypropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
The cationic surfactant (s) may be present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
The fatty alcohol according to the invention can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
The fatty alcohol can be oxyalkylenated or glycerolated.
The fatty alcohol may preferably have the structure R-OH, in which R denotes a saturated or unsaturated radical, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30; R preferably denotes a C8-C40 alkyl group, preferably C12-C24 alkyl or C8-C40 alkenyl, preferably C12-C24. R can be substituted by one or more hydroxy groups and in particular by one or two hydroxy groups.
By way of example, mention may be made of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol and oleic alcohol and their mixtures. Preferably, the alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and their mixtures.
The term “oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol according to the invention” means any pure fatty alcohol with the following structure:<chemistry id="chem0009" num="0009"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0009.tif" /></chemistry>in which :<ul id="ul0007" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>R denotes a saturated or unsaturated radical, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30,</li><li>Z represents an oxyethylenated radical (i) and / or oxypropylenated (ii) 1 and (ii) 2 of the following respective formulas: - CH<sub>2</sub>―CH<sub>2</sub>―O― (i)<chemistry id="chem0010" num="0010"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0010.tif" /></chemistry> - CH<sub>2</sub>―CH<sub>2</sub>―CH<sub>2</sub>―O― (ii)<sub>2</sub></li><li>m represents the number of ethylene oxide (i) and / or propylene oxide (ii) 1 or (ii) 2 groups, ranging from 1 to 250 and preferably from 2 to 100.</li></ul>
By glycerolated fatty alcohol is meant any pure fatty alcohol with the following structure:<chemistry id="chem0011" num="0011"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0011.tif" /></chemistry>in which, R denotes a saturated or unsaturated radical, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30, Z represents a glycerol radical (iii) of the following formula:<chemistry id="chem0012" num="0012"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0012.tif" /></chemistry>n represents the number of glycerol groups (iii) and is between 1 and 30 and preferably between 1 and 10.
Particularly preferred oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols according to the invention are fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 40 ethylene oxide groups.
As oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol type compounds, mention may in particular be made of the following marketed products:<ul id="ul0008" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>Mergital LM2 (COGNIS) [lauric alcohol 2 EO];</li><li>Ifralan L12 (IFRACHEM) and Rewopal 12 (GOLDSCHMIDT) [lauric alcohol 12 OE];</li><li>Empilan KA 2.5 / 90FL (ALBRIGHT & WILSON) and Mergital BL309 (COGNIS) [3 OE decyl alcohol];</li><li>Empilan KA 5/90 FL (ALBRIGHT & WILSON) and Mergital BL589 (COGNIS) [5 OE decyl alcohol];</li><li>Brij 58 (UNIQUEMA) and Simulsol 58 (SEPRIC) [cetyl alcohol 20 OE];</li><li>Emulgin 05 (COGNIS) [oleocetyl alcohol 5 EO];</li><li>Mergital OC30 (COGNIS) [oleocetyl alcohol 30 EO];</li><li>Brij 72 (UNIQUEMA) [stearyl alcohol 2 EO];</li><li>Brij 76 (UNIQUEMA) [10 E stearyl alcohol];</li><li>Brij 78P (UNIQUEMA) [20 E stearyl alcohol];</li><li>Brij 700 (UNIQUEMA) [stearyl alcohol 100 EO];</li><li>Emulgin B1 (COGNIS) [cetylstearyl alcohol 12 EO];</li><li>Emulgin L (COGNIS) [cetyl alcohol 9 EO and 2 OP];</li><li>Witconol APM (GOLDSCHMIT) [myristic alcohol 3 OP];</li><li>As glycerol fatty alcohol type compounds, mention may in particular be made of lauric alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INPCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), oleic alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INPCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER ), oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INPCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol to 6 moles of glycerol.</li></ul>
The fatty alcohol can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that in a commercial product can coexist several species of fatty alcohols, in the form of a mixture.
Advantageously, the fatty alcohol is solid or pasty at a temperature of 20 ° C. By “solid or pasty fatty alcohol at 20 ° C.” is meant within the meaning of the present invention a fatty alcohol having a viscosity measured with a rheometer with a shear rate of 1 s<sup>-1</sup> greater than or equal to 1 Pa.s.
Preferably, the fatty alcohols of the invention are non-oxyalkylenated and / or non-glycerolated.
The fatty alcohol or alcohols may be present in the composition at a content ranging from 4 to 15%, preferably from 4.5 to 10%, more preferably from 4.5 to 8% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
By diol having 6 carbon atoms within the meaning of the invention means any hydrocarbon compound comprising 2 hydroxy functions and 6 carbon atoms.
The diol can be linear or branched and include ether functions.
The diol is preferably chosen from 1,6-hexane diol, dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
The diol (s) may be present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.25 to 5%, more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention, the compositions also comprise at least one non-silicone cationic polymer. The term “non-silicone” is understood to mean, according to the present invention, that the cationic polymer does not comprise units (Si-O).
The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely in particular those described in the application for <patcit id="pcit0004" dnum="EP0337354A"><text>Patent EP-A- 0 337 354</text></patcit> and in French patent applications <patcit id="pcit0005" dnum="FR2270846A"><text>FR-A- 2 270 846</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0006" dnum="FR2383660A"><text>2 383 660</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0007" dnum="FR2598611A"><text>2 598 611</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0008" dnum="FR2470596A"><text>2 470 596</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0009" dnum="FR2519863A"><text>2 519 863</text></patcit>.
Even more generally, within the meaning of the present invention, the expression “cationic polymer” designates any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.
The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either be part of the main polymer chain, or be carried by a lateral substituent directly linked thereto.
The cationic polymers used generally have a number or weight average molar mass of between 500 and 5.10<sup>6</sup> approximately, and preferably between 10<sup>3</sup> and 3.10<sup>6</sup> about.
Among the cationic polymers, mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type. These are known products.
The polymers of the polyamine, polyamidoamide, quaternary polyammonium type, which can be used in accordance with the present invention, which can be mentioned in particular, are those described in the <patcit id="pcit0010" dnum="FR2505348"><text>French patents 2,505,348</text></patcit> or <patcit id="pcit0011" dnum="FR2542997"><text>2 542 997</text></patcit>. Among these polymers, there may be mentioned:<ol id="ol0001" compact="compact" ol-style=""><li>(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulas:<chemistry id="chem0013" num="0013"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0013.tif" /></chemistry><chemistry id="chem0014" num="0014"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0014.tif" /></chemistry>in which:<ul id="ul0009" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>R<sub>3</sub> , identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH radical<sub>3</sub>;</li><li>A, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;</li><li>R<sub>4</sub>, R<sub>5</sub>, R<sub>6</sub>, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;</li><li>R<sub>1</sub> and R<sub>2</sub> , identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl;</li><li>X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.</li></ul>The copolymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units deriving from monomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones, acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4) , acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters. Thus, among these copolymers of family (1), there may be mentioned:<ul id="ul0010" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,</li><li>copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl-trimethylammonium chloride described for example in the patent application <patcit id="pcit0012" dnum="EP080976A"><text>EP-A-080976</text></patcit> and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,</li><li>the copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxy-ethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name RETEN by the company Hercules,</li><li>vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or methacrylate of dialkylaminoalkyl quaternized or not. These polymers are described in detail in<patcit id="pcit0013" dnum="FR2077143"><text>French patents 2,077,143</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0014" dnum="FR2393573"><text>2.393.573</text></patcit>,</li><li>dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers,</li><li>vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers.</li><li>and quaternized dimethylamino-propyl vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide copolymers.</li></ul></li><li>(2) Cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may more particularly be made of cellulose ethers derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums. The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in the <patcit id="pcit0015" dnum="FR1492597"><text>French patent 1,492,597</text></patcit>. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group. Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in <patcit id="pcit0016" dnum="US4131576A"><text>US Patent 4,131,576</text></patcit>, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, of methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, of dimethyl-diallylammonium. Cationic galactomannan gums are more particularly described in <patcit id="pcit0017" dnum="US3589578A"><text>US patents 3,589,578</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0018" dnum="US4031307A"><text>4 031 307</text></patcit> in particular guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used, for example.</li><li>(3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in<patcit id="pcit0019" dnum="FR2162025"><text>French patents 2,162,025</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0020" dnum="FR2280361"><text>2.280.361</text></patcit> ;</li><li>(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-halide of alkyl or also with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, d '' an epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polymaoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized. Such polymers are described in particular in<patcit id="pcit0021" dnum="FR2252840"><text>French patents 2,252,840</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0022" dnum="FR2368508"><text>2.368.508</text></patcit> ;</li><li>(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkoyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Such polymers are in particular described in the<patcit id="pcit0023" dnum="FR1583363"><text>French patent 1,583,363</text></patcit>. Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "CARTARETINE F, F4 or F8" by the company SANDOZ.</li><li>(6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in the patents American 3,227,615 and 2,961,347. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "HERCOSETT 57" by the company Hercules Inc. by the company HERCULES in the case of the copolymer of adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylene-triamine.</li><li>(7) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (1) or (l '):<chemistry id="chem0015" num="0015"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0015.tif" /></chemistry>formulas in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R<sub>12</sub> denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R<sub>10</sub> and R<sub>11</sub>, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (C1-C4) or R<sub>10</sub> and R<sub>11</sub> may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in<patcit id="pcit0024" dnum="FR2080759"><text>French patent 2,080,759</text></patcit> and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406. R<sub>10</sub> and R<sub>11</sub>, independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Among the polymers defined above, there may be mentioned more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO (and its counterparts with low average molar masses by weight) and copolymers of chloride of chloride diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide</li><li>(8) quaternary diammonium polymers containing recurring units corresponding to the formula:<chemistry id="chem0016" num="0016"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0016.tif" /></chemistry>formula (II) in which:<ul id="ul0011" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>R<sub>13</sub>, R<sub>14</sub>, R<sub>15</sub> and R<sub>16</sub>, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or else R<sub>13</sub>, R<sub>14</sub>, R<sub>15</sub> and R<sub>16</sub>, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles possibly containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else R<sub>13</sub>, R<sub>14</sub>, R<sub>15</sub> and R<sub>16</sub> represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR group<sub>17</sub>-D or -CO-NH-R<sub>17</sub>-D where R<sub>17</sub> is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;</li><li>A1 and B1 represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and</li><li>X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;</li><li>A1, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a group (CH2) n-CO-D-OC- (CH2) n-</li></ul>in which D denotes:<ol id="ol0002" compact="compact" ol-style=""><li>a) a glycol residue of formula: -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CH2-CH2-O) x-CH2-CH2- - [CH2-CH (CH3) -O] y-CH2-CH (CH3) - where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;</li><li>b) a residue of bis-secondary diamine such as a piperazine derivative</li><li>c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the bivalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;</li><li>d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-; n desu = igne an integer ranging from 1 to 8, preferably from 2 to 4</li></ol>Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass generally between 1000 and 100,000. Polymers of this type are especially described in the patents <patcit id="pcit0025" dnum="FR2320330"><text>French 2,320,330</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0026" dnum="FR2270846"><text>2.270.846</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0027" dnum="FR2316271"><text>2.316.271</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0028" dnum="FR2336434"><text>2.336.434</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0029" dnum="FR2413907"><text>2.413.907</text></patcit> and patents <patcit id="pcit0030" dnum="US2273780A"><text>US 2,273,780</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0031" dnum="US2375853A"><text>2.375.853</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0032" dnum="US2388614A"><text>2.388.614</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0033" dnum="US2454547A"><text>2.454.547</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0034" dnum="US3206462A"><text>3.206.462</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0035" dnum="US2261002A"><text>2.261.002</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0036" dnum="US2271378A"><text>2.271.378</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0037" dnum="US3874870A"><text>3.874.870</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0038" dnum="US4001432A"><text>4.001.432</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0039" dnum="US3929990A"><text>3.929.990</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0040" dnum="US3966904A"><text>3.966.904</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0041" dnum="US4005193A"><text>4.005.193</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0042" dnum="US4025617A"><text>4.025.617</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0043" dnum="US4025627A"><text>4.025.627</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0044" dnum="US4025653A"><text>4.025.653</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0045" dnum="US4026945A"><text>4.026.945</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0046" dnum="US4027020A"><text>4.027.020</text></patcit>. It is possible to use more particularly the polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the formula:<chemistry id="chem0017" num="0017"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0017.tif" /></chemistry>in which R<sub>1</sub>, R<sub>2</sub>, R<sub>3</sub> and R<sub>4</sub>, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are whole numbers varying from 2 to approximately 20 and, X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. A particularly preferred compound of formula (a) is that for which R<sub>1</sub>, R<sub>2</sub>, R<sub>3</sub> and R<sub>4</sub>, represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the nomenclature lNCl (CTFA).</li><li>(9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (III):<chemistry id="chem0018" num="0018"><img file="EP1634569B1_D0018.tif" /></chemistry>formula in which:<ul id="ul0012" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>R<sub>18</sub>, R<sub>19</sub>, R<sub>20</sub> and R<sub>21</sub>, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH radical<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>(OCH<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>)<sub>p</sub>OH,</li><li>where p is 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R<sub>18</sub>, R<sub>19</sub>, R<sub>20</sub> and R<sub>21</sub> do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,</li><li>r and s, identical or different, are whole numbers between 1 and 6,</li><li>q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,</li><li>X- denotes an anion such as a halide,</li><li>A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH<sub>2</sub>-CH<sub>2</sub>-O-CH<sub>2</sub>-CH<sub>2</sub>-</li></ul>Such compounds are in particular described in the patent application <patcit id="pcit0047" dnum="EP122324A"><text>EP-A-122 324</text></patcit>. Mention may, for example, be made, among these, of the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® AD1", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.</li><li>(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as for example the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF</li><li>(11) Optionally crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bis acrylamide.</li></ol>
Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives, in particular chitosans or their salts;<ul id="ul0013" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>the salts which can be used are in particular acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or chitosan pyrrolidone-carboxylate.</li></ul>
Among these compounds, there may be mentioned chitosan having a deacetylation rate of 90% by weight, chitosan pyrrolidone-carboxylate sold under the name KYTAMER® PC by the company AMERCHOL.
Among all the cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sold under the names "MERQUAT 100", "MERQUAT 550 "And" MERQUAT S "by the company NALCO, the quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl salts (C<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>4</sub>) trialkyl (C<sub>1-</sub>VS<sub>4</sub>) ammonium, chitosan pyrrolidone carboxylate and mixtures thereof.
According to the invention, the cationic polymer (s) can represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.
The ratio of the concentrations by weight of cationic surfactant / diol is preferably greater than 1 and preferably ranges from 1.5 to 10 and more particularly from 2 to 5.
Preferably, the ratio of the concentrations by weight of fatty alcohol / cationic surfactant is greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranges from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5.
The ratio of the concentrations by weight of cationic surfactant / silicone preferably ranges from 0.85 to 10 and more particularly from 0.85 to 5.
The ratio of the concentrations by weight of fatty alcohol / silicone preferably ranges from 2 to 15 and more particularly from 2 to 5.
The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one or more additives chosen from perfumes, UV filters, nonionic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, preservatives, proteins, vitamins, provitamins, polymers nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, silicones, vegetable waxes, ceramides, and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, such as anti-dandruff agents, anti-hair loss agents, dyes, pigments, reducers, polyols other than those of the invention.
These additives are present in the composition at contents advantageously between 0.001 and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition. The precise quantity of each additive depends on its nature and is easily determined by a person skilled in the art, and will depend on the hair application chosen.
Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one silicone and more particularly an amino silicone. The silicone can be chosen from amodimethicones and trimethylsilylamodimethicones, silicones with quaternary ammonium groups.
The silicone is preferably present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.01 to 6%, preferably from 0.1 to 3%, and more preferably from 0.4 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition .
A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additives and their quantity so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
The compositions according to the invention can be in the form of fluid or thickened liquids, gels, creams, or single or multiple emulsions. The cosmetic treatment compositions for keratin materials according to the invention can also be in the form of a foam and can be used in rinse-out or leave-in application. In this case, they can be packaged in an aerosol device.
The compositions can be used, for example, in shampoos, conditioners, coloring or bleaching or perming products, styling products, rinsed treatments, deep care masks, shower gels, lotions or creams for treating leather. haired, or even deposited on wipes.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a non-coloring composition. By “non-coloring composition” is meant a composition essentially containing no oxidation dye, that is to say less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0 , 1% by weight and more particularly not containing any oxidation dye.
The subject of the invention is also the use of the compositions according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment of the hair and scalp.
Another object of the invention is the use of the composition for conditioning keratin materials such as the hair.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process in which the cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to hair, wet or dry, this application being optionally followed by rinsing. The application of the composition is advantageously carried out after shampooing.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention are used as conditioners for the treatment of hair and scalp.
They are applied, in this case, to damp or dry hair, in amounts effective for treating them, this application being followed by rinsing.
The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention. The quantities are expressed in active ingredient unless otherwise indicated.
Example 1
A composition A was prepared after shampoo according to the invention and a composition B not in accordance with the invention:<tables id="tabl0001" num="0001"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="3"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="113mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="27mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="27mm" /><thead><row><entry align="center" valign="top" /><entry align="center" valign="top">Composition A</entry><entry align="center" valign="top">Composition B</entry></row></thead><tbody><row><entry>Cetylstearyl alcohol</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">7 g</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">7 g</entry></row><row><entry>Behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">3g MA</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">3 gMA</entry></row><row><entry>Hexanediol-1,6</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">1 g</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">-</entry></row><row><entry>Isopropanol</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">-</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">1 g</entry></row><row><entry>Mixture of Myristate / Palmitate / Myristyl Stearate / Cetyl / Stearyl</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">2.5g</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">2.5g</entry></row><row><entry>Isopropyl myristate</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">1.05 g</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">1.05 g</entry></row><row><entry>Polydimethylsiloxane with aminopropyl group in mixture with a polydimethylsiloxane (KF8020 from SHIN ETSU)</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">0.1 gMA</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">0.1 gMA</entry></row><row><entry>Homopolymer of ethyl trimethyl ammonium methacrylate chloride (CIBA SALCARE SC 95)</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">0.15 gMA</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">0.15 gMA</entry></row><row><entry>Perfume, Preservatives</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">qs</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">qs</entry></row><row><entry>PH agent qs</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">pH 4 ± 0.5</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">pH 4 ± 0.5</entry></row><row><entry>Water</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">Qsp 100g</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">Qsp 100g</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>
Compositions A and B are applied to the hair, this application being followed by rinsing.
The rinsing of composition A is easier.
It is observed that the hair treated with composition A according to the invention is more flexible, more nervous and smoother than the hair treated with composition B.
Example 2
A composition A was prepared after shampoo according to the invention and a composition B not in accordance with the invention:<tables id="tabl0002" num="0002"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="3"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="113mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="27mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="27mm" /><thead><row><entry align="center" valign="top" /><entry align="center" valign="top">Composition A</entry><entry align="center" valign="top">Composition B</entry></row></thead><tbody><row><entry>Cetylstearyl alcohol</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">5 g</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">5 g</entry></row><row><entry>Behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">3 gMA</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">3 gMA</entry></row><row><entry>Hexanediol-1,6</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">1 g</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">-</entry></row><row><entry>Isopropanol</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">-</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">1 g</entry></row><row><entry>Mixture of Myristate / Palmitate / Myristyl Stearate / Cetyl / Stearyl</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">1 g</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">1g</entry></row><row><entry>Isopropyl myristate</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">1.05 g</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">1.05 g</entry></row><row><entry>Polydimethylsiloxane with aminopropyl group in mixture with a polydimethylsiloxane (KF8020 from SHIN ETSU)</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">0.5 gMA</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">0.5 gMA</entry></row><row><entry>Homopolymer of ethyl trimethyl ammonium methacrylate chloride (CIBA SALCARE SC 95)</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">0.3 gMA</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">0.3 gMA</entry></row><row><entry>Perfume, Preservatives</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">qs</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">qs</entry></row><row><entry>PH agent qs</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">pH 4 ± 0.5</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">pH 4 ± 0.5</entry></row><row><entry>Water</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">Qsp 100g</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">Qsp 100g</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>
Compositions A and B are applied to the hair, this application being followed by rinsing.
The rinsing of composition A is easier.
It is observed that the hair treated with composition A according to the invention is more flexible, more nervous and smoother than the hair treated with composition B.
Example 3
A composition A was prepared after shampoo according to the invention:<tables id="tabl0003" num="0003"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="2"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="139mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="27mm" /><thead><row><entry align="center" valign="top" /><entry align="center" valign="top">Composition A</entry></row></thead><tbody><row><entry>Cetylstearyl alcohol</entry><entry align="center">7 g</entry></row><row><entry>Behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride</entry><entry align="center">3gMA</entry></row><row><entry>Hexanediol-1,6</entry><entry align="center">1 g</entry></row><row><entry>Dipropylene glycol</entry><entry align="center">1 g</entry></row><row><entry>Mixture of Myristate / Palmitate / Myristyl Stearate / Cetyl / Stearyl</entry><entry align="center">2.5g</entry></row><row><entry>Isopropyl myristate</entry><entry align="center">1.05 g</entry></row><row><entry>Polydimethylsiloxane with aminopropyl group in mixture with a polydimethylsiloxane (KF8020 from SHIN ETSU)</entry><entry align="center">0.5 gMA</entry></row><row><entry>Homopolymer of ethyl trimethyl ammonium methacrylate chloride (CIBA SALCARE SC 95)</entry><entry align="center">0.3 gMA</entry></row><row><entry>Perfume, Preservatives</entry><entry align="center">qs</entry></row><row><entry>PH agent qs</entry><entry align="center">pH 4 ± 0.5</entry></row><row><entry>Water</entry><entry align="center">Qsp 100g</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>
The composition spreads easily on the hair.
It is observed that the hair treated with composition A according to the invention is flexible, nervous and smooth
Example 4
A composition A was prepared after shampoo according to the invention and a composition B not in accordance with the invention:<tables id="tabl0004" num="0004"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="3"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="113mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="27mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="27mm" /><thead><row><entry align="center" valign="top" /><entry align="center" valign="top">Composition A</entry><entry align="center" valign="top">Composition B</entry></row></thead><tbody><row><entry>Cetyl alcohol</entry><entry align="center">4.5g</entry><entry align="center">4.5g</entry></row><row><entry>Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride</entry><entry align="center">3 g MA</entry><entry align="center">3 g MA</entry></row><row><entry>Hexanediol-1,6</entry><entry align="center">1 gMA</entry><entry align="center">-</entry></row><row><entry>lsopropanol</entry><entry align="center">-</entry><entry align="center">1 gMA</entry></row><row><entry>Mixture of myristate / palmitate / myristyl stearate / cetyl / stearyl</entry><entry align="center">2.5g</entry><entry align="center">2.5g</entry></row><row><entry>Polydimethylsiloxane with aminoethyliminobutyl group in 58% aqueous emulsion (DC2-8299 from DOW CORNING)</entry><entry align="center">0.5 g MA</entry><entry align="center">0.5 g MA</entry></row><row><entry>Glyceryl stearate</entry><entry align="center">1 g</entry><entry align="center">1 g</entry></row><row><entry>Perfume, Preservatives</entry><entry align="center">qs</entry><entry align="center">qs</entry></row><row><entry>PH agent qs</entry><entry align="center">pH 4 ± 0.5</entry><entry align="center">pH 4 ± 0.5</entry></row><row><entry>Water</entry><entry align="center">Qsp 100g</entry><entry align="center">Qsp 100g</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>
48 sheets
Sheet 1 Sheet 2 Sheet 3 Sheet 4 Sheet 5 Sheet 6 Sheet 7 Sheet 8 Sheet 9 Sheet 10 Sheet 11 Sheet 12 Sheet 13 Sheet 14 Sheet 15 Sheet 16 Sheet 17 Sheet 18 Sheet 19 Sheet 20 Sheet 21 Sheet 22 Sheet 23 Sheet 24 Sheet 25 Sheet 26 Sheet 27 Sheet 28 Sheet 29 Sheet 30 Sheet 31 Sheet 32 Sheet 33 Sheet 34 Sheet 35 Sheet 36 Sheet 37 Sheet 38 Sheet 39 Sheet 40 Sheet 41 Sheet 42 Sheet 43 Sheet 44 Sheet 45 Sheet 46 Sheet 47 Sheet 48
Every citation, both ways
| Document | Relation | Office |
|---|---|---|
| WO9962492A | Cites | World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO) |
| US2004103488A1 | Cites | United States of America |
14 members in 11 offices
Priority claims4
| Document | Office | Kind | Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0451989 | France | A | |
| 0451989 | France | – | |
| 0451989 | – | – | – |
| FR20040051989 | – | – | – |
Members14
| Document | Office | Kind | |
|---|---|---|---|
| MXPA05009513A | Mexico | A | |
| FR2874820A1 | France | A1 | |
| CN1745741A | China | A | |
| EP1634569A1 | European Patent Office (EPO) | A1 | |
| US2006057095A1 | United States of America | A1 | |
| JP2006077014A | Japan | A | |
| BRPI0503804A | Brazil | A | |
| KR20060051129A | Republic of Korea | A | |
| FR2874820B1 | France | B1 | |
| EP1634569B1This record | European Patent Office (EPO) | B1 | |
| AT418320T | Austria | T | |
| ATE418320T1 | Austria | T1 | |
| DE602005011903D1 | Germany | D1 | |
| ES2319913T3 | Spain | T3 |
62 legal events, as 7 offices reported them to INPADOC
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|---|---|---|---|
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| Announcement of lapse in spainLapsedFD2A | FD2A | ES | |
| Application deemed withdrawn, or ip right lapsed, due to non-payment of renewal feeWithdrawnR119 | R119 | DE | |
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Numbers
- Publication
- 1634569
- Publication, DOCDB
- 1634569
- Publication, EPODOC
- EP1634569
- Application
- 5291659
- Application, DOCDB
- 05291659
- Application, EPODOC
- EP20050291659
Titles3
- German
- Kosmetische Zusammensetzung auf der Basis eines kationischen Tensids, eines Fettalkohols, eines kationischen nicht-silikonhaltigen Polymers und eines Diols
- English
- Cosmetic composition based on a cationic surfactant, a fatty alcohol, a cationic non-silicone polymer and a diol
- French
- Composition cosmétique à base d'un tensioactif cationique, d'un alcool gras, d'un polymère cationique non siliconé et d'un diol
Classification
- CPC, 10
- A61K8/898
- A61K8/891
- A61K8/342
- A61K8/416
- A61K8/8152
- A61K2800/5426
- A61Q5/02
- A61Q5/12
- A61K8/49
- A61Q5/00
- IPC, 4
- A61K8 34
- A61K8 41
- A61Q5 02
- A61Q5 12
Designated states1
- Contracting states, 1
- Türkiye
