Cosmetic composition for skin, lips and / or nails.
48 claims: 36 independent, 12 dependent
- 1Composition présentant un pouvoir couvrant compris entre 1 et 25 et destinée à être appliquée sur la peau, les lèvres et/ou les phanères, cette composition comportant des particules d'au moins un pigment composite, en une teneur dans la composition comprise entre 0,1 % et 5 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, ces particules comportant :- un noyau inorganique comportant de la silice et présentant une taille moyenne comprise entre 10 nm et 50 nm, - au moins un enrobage au moins partiel d'au moins une matière colorante organique, dans une quantité suffisante pour que la saturation C* de la composition soit comprise entre 25 et 100, la proportion massique de matière colorante organique étant comprise entre 10 parts et 500 parts en poids pour 100 parts du noyau inorganique, - la matière colorante organique étant choisie parmi un pigment organique de colorant azoïque, un sel insoluble de sodium, de potassium, de calcium, de baryum, d'aluminium, de zirconium, de strontium, de titane, de colorant acide choisi parmi un colorant azoïque, , le pouvoir couvrant étant mesuré de la manière suivante : la composition est étalée avec une épaisseur de 30 µm sur une carte de contraste Erichsen, type 24/5, présentant un fond noir et un fond blanc, et les coordonnées trichromatiques (X, Y, Z) sont mesurées à l'aide d'un colorimètre CR-300 ;- des étalements similaires sont réalisés sur deux autres cartes de contraste et trois mesures sont effectuées sur chaque carte, la moyenne correspondant à ces neuf mesures est ensuite calculée, le pouvoir couvrant est égal à 100 x Yn/Yb où Yn est la valeur moyenne de Y sur fond noir et Yb est la valeur moyenne de Y sur fond blanc.
- 2Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée par le fait que la teneur en pigment composite dans la composition est comprise entre 0,1 % et 3 % ou entre 0,5 % et 3 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.
- 3Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le pigment composite contient une quantité suffisante de matière colorante organique pour que la saturation C* de la composition soit comprise entre 30 et 100.
- 4Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu' elle présente un pouvoir couvrant compris entre 5 et 24,9.
- 5Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée par le fait qu' elle présente un pouvoir couvrant compris entre 10 et 24,9.
- 6Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée par le fait qu' elle présente un pouvoir couvrant compris entre 15 et 24,9.
- 7Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que la matière colorante organique comporte au moins un pigment organique.
- 8Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que la matière colorante organique comporte au moins une laque organique.
- 9Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le noyau inorganique présente une surface spécifique comprise entre 1 m 2 /g et 1000 m 2 /g.
- 10Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée par le fait que la surface spécifique du noyau inorganique est comprise entre 10 m 2 /g et 600 m 2 /g.
- 11Composition selon la revendication 9, caractérisée par le fait que la surface spécifique du noyau inorganique est comprise entre 20 m 2 /g et 400 m 2 /g.
- 12Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le noyau inorganique présente une forme choisie parmi les suivantes :sphérique, globulaire, polyédrique, aciculaire, fusiforme, aplatie.
- 13Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le noyau inorganique comporte en outre un matériau choisi parmi un sel métallique, un oxyde métallique, une alumine, un verre, une céramique, un graphite, un silicate, un mica synthétique, et un de leurs mélanges.
- 14Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée par le fait que le noyau inorganique comporte un oxyde métallique choisi parmi un oxyde de titane, de zirconium, de cérium, de zinc, de fer, de bleu ferrique, de chrome et d'aluminium.
- 15Composition selon la revendication 14, caractérisée par le fait que l'oxyde métallique est choisi parmi un oxyde de titane, de fer, de cérium, de zirconium, de zinc, et d'aluminium.
- 16Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée par le fait que l'oxyde métallique comporte du dioxyde de titane.
- 17Composition selon la revendication 13, caractérisée par le fait que le noyau inorganique comporte au moins un silicate choisi parmi un aluminosilicate et un borosilicate.
- 18Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que la proportion massique de la matière colorante organique est comprise entre 20 et 250 parts en poids pour 100 parts du noyau inorganique.
- 19Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée par le fait que la proportion massique de la matière colorante organique est comprise entre 40 et 125 parts en poids pour 100 parts du noyau inorganique.
- 20Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que la matière colorante organique comporte une laque organique qui est supportée par un support organique comportant au moins une colophane ou du benzoate d'aluminium.
- 21Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que la matière colorante organique comporte un pigment organique ayant l'une des dénominations suivantes :, D&C Brown n° 1, D&C Orange n° 4, , D&C Red n° 6, D&C Red n° 7, D&C Red n° 17, D&C Red n° 31, D&C Red n° 33, D&C Red n° 34, D&C Red n° 36, D&C Yellow n° 11, FD&C Red n° 40, FD&C Yellow n° 5, FD&C Yellow n° 6.
- 22Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que la matière colorante organique comporte une laque organique ayant l'une des dénominations suivantes :D&C Red n° 2 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 6 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 6 Barium lake, D&C Red n° 6 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red n° 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red n° 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red n° 7 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 7 Barium lake, D&C Red n° 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red n° 7 Calcium/Strontium lake, D&C Red n° 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n° 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red n° 9 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 9 Barium lake, D&C Red n° 9 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red n° 9 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n° 10 Sodium lake, , , D&C Red n° 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red n° 33 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red n° 36 lake, D&C Red n° 40 Aluminium lake, , D&C Orange n° 4 Aluminium lake, , , D&C Orange n° 17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow n° 5 Aluminium lake, D&C Yellow n° 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow n° 6 Aluminium lake, , , FD&C Red n° 4 Aluminium lake, FD&C Red n° 40 Aluminium lake, FD&C Yellow n° 5 Aluminium lake, FD&C Yellow n° 6 Aluminium lake.
- 23Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le pigment composite comporte au moins un liant contribuant à la fixation de la matière colorante organique sur le noyau inorganique.
- 24Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée par le fait que le liant comporte au moins l'un d'un composé siliconé, d'un composé polymérique, et d'un composé oligomérique et similaire, comportant au moins l'un d'un organosilane, d'un organosilane fluoroalkylé, d'un polysiloxane, d'un agent couplant et d'un mélange de ceux-ci.
- 25Composition selon la revendication 24, caractérisée par le fait que le liant comporte du polyméthylhydrogénosiloxane.
- 26Composition selon la revendication 24 , caractérisée par le fait que l'agent couplant est à base de silane, de titanate, d'aluminate et/ou de zirconate.
- 27Composition selon la revendication 24 , caractérisée par le fait que le liant comporte au moins un composé siliconé.
- 28Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le noyau inorganique est coloré.
- 29Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu' elle est dépourvue de particules de dioxyde de titane non enrobées.
- 30Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu' elle comporte au moins un actif cosmétique ou dermatologique.
- 31Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu' elle comporte au moins un corps gras, une cire, une gomme ou un polymère filmogène.
- 32Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu' elle comporte une matière colorante additionnelle différente du pigment composite.
- 33Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée par le fait que la matière colorante additionnelle est choisie parmi les pigments minéraux, les pigments organiques, les pigments nacrés, les colorants liposolubles et les colorants hydrosolubles.
- 34Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu' elle se présente sous une forme solide.
- 35Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu' elle se présente sous forme liquide, pâteuse ou gélifiée.
- 36Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 35, caractérisée par le fait que le pigment composite est non interférentiel.
- 37Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 36, caractérisée par le fait que la saturation C* du pigment composite est supérieure à 30.
- 38Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 23 à 37, caractérisée par le fait que la quantité relative de liant est inférieure ou égale à 5 % par rapport au poids total du pigment composite.
- 39Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 23 à 38, caractérisée par le fait que le liant est organique.
- 40Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 39, caractérisée par le fait que la brillance moyenne Toh est supérieure ou égale à 30.
- 41Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 40, caractérisée par le fait que la quantité Q de particules est supérieure ou égale à 5 %.
- 42Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 41, caractérisée par le fait qu' elle comporte une huile de masse molaire comprise entre 650 g/mol et 10000 g/mol.
- 43Procédé de maquillage de la peau, des lèvres ou des phanères, dans lequel on applique sur la peau, les lèvres ou les phanères une composition telle que définie dans l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes.
- 44Rouge à lèvres comportant une composition telle que définie dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 35.
- 45Fond de teint comportant une composition telle que définie dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 35.
- 46Vernis à ongles comportant une composition telle que définie dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 35.
- 47Mascara comportant une composition telle que définie dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 35.
- 48Produit de coloration des fibres capillaires comportant une composition telle que définie dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 35.
Independent claims48
202 paragraphs, as filed
0001The present invention relates to compositions intended to be applied to the skin, including the mucous membranes, in particular the lips, and the integuments, in particular the nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.
0002It is known to use pigments to color a cosmetic composition, in particular pigments whose particles have an average size of between 200 nm and 1000 nm. The compositions comprising such pigments are colored and the transparency and the saturation C * of the color can be varied by varying the pigment content. In order to obtain relatively opaque cosmetic compositions, which may be desirable for example to impart a natural appearance to the makeup or so as not to obscure an optical effect of specific shine due to reflective fillers, the concentration of pigments is reduced, which has for the disadvantage of decreasing at the same time the intensity of the coloring of the composition.
0003Inorganic pigments, in particular titanium or iron oxide in the form of nanoparticles, are sometimes used. These pigments do not allow a high number of colors to be obtained, and the latter remain relatively unsaturated.
0004To obtain a composition which is both colored and transparent, it is known to use soluble dyes. However, very few of these soluble dyes are authorized in cosmetics and moreover have the drawback of transferring onto the make-up support and of staining the latter.
0005There is a need to have a relatively transparent or translucent cosmetic composition, the color of which is sufficiently saturated.
0006The invention aims in particular to meet this need.
0007It achieves this thanks to a composition having a covering power of between 1 and 25 and intended to be applied to the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, this composition comprising particles of at least one composite pigment, in a content in the composition of between approximately 0.1% and approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, these particles comprising:<ul id="ul0001" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>an inorganic nucleus comprising silica and having an average size of between approximately 10 nm and approximately 50 nm,</li><li>at least one at least partial coating of at least one organic coloring matter, in an amount sufficient for the saturation C * of the composition to be between approximately 25 and approximately 100, better still between approximately 30 and approximately 100, the mass proportion of organic coloring matter being between approximately 10 parts and approximately 500 parts by weight per 100 parts of the inorganic nucleus,</li><li>the organic coloring matter being chosen from an organic azo dye pigment, an insoluble salt of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dye chosen from an azo dye ,,</li></ul>the hiding power being measured as follows:<ul id="ul0002" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>the composition is spread with a thickness of 30 μm on an Erichsen contrast card, type 24/5, having a black background and a white background, and the trichromatic coordinates (X, Y, Z) are measured using a CR-300 colorimeter;</li><li>similar spreads are made on two other contrast maps and three measurements are made on each map, the average corresponding to these nine measurements is then calculated, the covering power is equal to 100 x Yn / Yb where Yn is the average value of Y on a black background and Yb is the average value of Y on a white background.</li></ul>
0008Thanks to the invention, it is possible to obtain compositions which are both relatively transparent or translucent and saturated.
0009The composition may for example have a covering power of between approximately 5 and approximately 24.9, or even between approximately 10 and approximately 24.9, for example between approximately 15 and approximately 24.9.
0010The content of composite pigment in the composition may be between approximately 0.1% and approximately 3% or between approximately 0.5% and approximately 3%.
0011A suitable shade can be obtained in various ways, for example by mixing the composite pigments according to the invention, these pigments having different colors and / or by the presence of several organic coloring matters in the coating of the cores of the pigment (s). composites, these organic coloring matters being, for example, mixed or present in respective layers of the coating.
0012By "an at least partial coating" is meant within the meaning of the present invention, a coating of all or part of the inorganic nucleus.
0013The composition according to the invention can comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.
0014By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a non-toxic medium capable of being applied to the skin, the lips or the integuments of human beings, in particular a cosmetic medium. The physiologically acceptable medium will be adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the form in which the composition is intended to be packaged, in particular solid or fluid at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure.
0015By "cosmetic composition" is meant a composition as defined in Council Directive 93/35 / EEC of June 14, 1993.
<i><u>MEASUREMENT OF SATURATION C *</u></i>
0016In the case of a liquid or pasty composition, a sample of the composition to be studied is introduced into a metal dish about 1 cm deep. A 1 mm thick quartz slide is applied to the composition, taking care to avoid air bubbles before making the measurement.
0017In the case of a powder composition, the powder sample is compacted at a pressure of 10 MPa in a metal cup about 1 cm deep. A 1 mm thick quartz slide is applied to the composition before making the measurement.
0018In the case of a stick, the composition is poured into a flat bottom quartz mold about 2 cm deep.
0019The trichromatic coordinates L *, a *, b * of the composition in the CIE space L * a * b * are measured using a CM-508d spectrocolorimeter from MINOLTA, under illuminant D65, with a specular component included and in d / 8 mode.
0020The saturation C * of the composition is calculated using the formula C * = [(a *)<sup>2</sup>+ (b *)<sup>2</sup>]<sup>1/2</sup>.
<i><u>MEASUREMENT OF COVERING POWER</u></i>
0021In the case of a stick, the formulation is previously kneaded so as to obtain a viscous paste.
0022In the case of a powder, 50 parts by weight of the powder are mixed with 50 parts by weight of dimethicone (DC 200 Fluid 5CST from DOW CORNING) so as to obtain a viscous paste.
0023As already mentioned, the formulation is then spread with a thickness of 30 μm on an Erichsen contrast card, type 24/5, with a black background and a white background, and the trichromatic coordinates (X, Y, Z) are measured at using a CR-300 colorimeter.
0024Similar spreads are made on two other contrast cards and three measurements are made on each card. The average corresponding to these nine measurements is then calculated.
0025The covering power is equal to 100 x Yn / Yb where Yn is the average value of Y on a black background and Yb is the average value of Y on a white background. A covering power of 100 corresponds to a completely opaque formulation.
0026The composite pigment is advantageously different from an interference pigment.
0027An example of interference pigment is given in <patcit id="pcit0001" dnum="US6428773B"><text>US 6,428,773</text></patcit>.
0028An interference pigment comprises a superposition of layers of constant thicknesses arranged to produce interference.
0029The saturation C * of the composite pigment can be greater than approximately 30, measured according to the following protocol:
<u>Protocol for measuring the saturation of the composite pigment:</u>
0030The a * and b * values in the CIE L * a * b * space of the composite pigment are measured as follows:<ul id="ul0003" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>The pure composite pigment is compacted in a rectangular cup having the dimensions 2 x 1.5 cm and a depth of 3 mm, by applying a pressure of 100 bars.</li></ul>
0031The a * and b * values of the compacted pigment are measured with a MINOLTA 3700d spectrophotometer, in specular mode excluded, under illuminant D65, medium aperture. Saturation is given by C * = (a *<sup>2</sup> + b *<sup>2</sup>)<sup>1/2</sup>.
0032The composition, in particular when it is liquid or in solid form, for example a stick, for example in the case of a liquid lip gloss, may have an average gloss T0h greater than or equal to 30, or even more.
Protocol for measuring the average gloss T0h
:
0033By "medium gloss" is meant the gloss as it can be measured using a gloss meter, in a conventional manner, by the following method.
0034On a BYK Gardner contrast card and a Prüfkarten reference card, Art. 2853, previously fixed on a 1 mm glass plate, a 25 μm thick layer of the composition is spread out using an automatic spreader (Bar coater, Sheen). The layer covers at least the black background of the card. When the composition is solid, it is melted if necessary on the card after having spread it so that it covers the black background. As soon as the composition is spread out, the gloss is measured, called the average gloss T0h, at 60 ° on the black background using a glossmeter by BYK GARDNER brand and reference microTRI-GLOSS. Four contrast maps are thus prepared to measure the average gloss of the composition, and the four measurements are averaged. For the measurement to be correct, the standard deviation must be less than or equal to 3%.
0035The contrast card can then be left for 5 hours on a thermostatically controlled plate at a temperature of 30 ° C. At the end of 5 hours, the contrast card is removed from the thermostatically controlled plate so that it returns to room temperature and then the medium brightness measurement, known as T5h average brightness, is carried out again as above.
0036Preferably, when the gloss is sought, the average gloss of the composition T0h is greater than or equal to 45, better still, greater than or equal to 50, better still, greater than or equal to 60, better still, greater than or equal to 65, better still, greater than or equal to 70, better still, greater than or equal to 75.
0037More preferably, the average gloss T5h of the composition is greater than or equal to 35, better still, greater than or equal to 40, better still, greater than or equal to 45, better still, greater than or equal to 50, better still, greater or equal to 55, better still, greater than or equal to 60, better still, greater than or equal to 65, better still, greater than or equal to 70 or better still, greater than or equal to 75, out of 100
0038The use of composite pigments according to the invention can make it possible, in certain implementation examples, to obtain a relatively high gloss despite a high relative content of particles.
0039The relative particle content is determined by the following measurement protocol.
Protocol for measuring the relative content Q of particles:
0040We use a Soxhlet with a cartridge and equipped with a balloon, a balloon heater and a ball cooler.
0041We start by regenerating the cartridge of the Soxhlet by boiling about 80 ml of toluene in the flask so that the cycles last about half an hour. The mixture is allowed to cool and the cartridge is dried in the oven overnight and then in the desiccator.
0042We use a PTFE membrane whose mass T is known<sub>1</sub>, which is folded into a cone and inserted into the cartridge. Precisely weigh 0.75 g (m) of product in the PTFE membrane and fold the membrane in the cartridge so that it is tightly closed.
0043We put the cartridge in the Soxhlet after having introduced a small drilled vial, used to maintain the top of the cartridge a little above the level of the elbow of the Soxhlet to prevent the level of toluene from being higher than the top of the cartridge and toluene does not carry the product.
0044About 80 ml of toluene is added to the flask. Refrigeration is started and the flask is heated so that the toluene is brought to the boil (boiling point 110.6 ° C.) at reflux for four hours. The toluene vapors must condense on the first ball of refrigerant and this condensation must not be too rapid. Leave to cool and then turn off the refrigeration.
0045The cartridge is dried in the oven for two days and placed in the desiccator for a minimum of two hours, then weighed (T<sub>2</sub>) the dry cartridge containing the insolubles (fillers, pigments) immediately at the outlet of the desiccator. At least two test portions of the sample are taken in order to obtain two concordant results. The proportion of the quantity of insolubles, that is to say which is not soluble by hot toluene, which remains in the cartridge is given by Q = ((T<sub>2</sub>-T<sub>1</sub>) / m) x 100.
<i><u>COMPOSITE PIGMENT</u></i>
<i><u>Structure</u></i>
0046A composite pigment according to the invention can be composed in particular of particles comprising:<ul id="ul0004" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>an inorganic nucleus,</li><li>at least one at least partial coating of at least one organic coloring matter.</li></ul>
0047At least one binder can advantageously contribute to the fixation of the organic coloring matter on the inorganic nucleus.
0048The composite pigment particles can have various shapes. These particles may in particular be in the form of platelets or globular, in particular spherical, and may be hollow or solid. By "in the form of platelets" is meant particles whose ratio of the largest dimension to the thickness is greater than or equal to 5.
0049A composite pigment according to the invention may for example have a specific surface of between 1 and 1000 m 2<sup>2</sup>/ g, especially between 10 and 600 m<sup>2</sup>/ g approximately, and in particular between 20 and 400 m<sup>2</sup>/ g approximately. The specific surface is the value measured by the BET method.
0050The composition may comprise only one or more composite pigments as defined above or alternatively comprise one or more composite pigments other as well as pigments having a non-composite structure, in particular mineral, interference pigments, lakes or organic pigments. The composition can in particular be devoid of TiO particles<sub>2</sub> uncoated.
<i><u>Inorganic core</u></i>
0051The inorganic nucleus can be of any shape suitable for fixing particles of organic coloring matter, for example spherical, globular, granular, polyhedral, acicular, fusiform, flattened in the form of a flake, rice grain, tortoiseshell, as well as 'a combination of these forms, this list not being exhaustive.
0052Preferably, the ratio of the largest dimension of the core to its smallest dimension is between 1 and 50.
0053The inorganic nucleus has an average size of between about 10 nm and about 50 nm.
0054By "average size" is meant the dimension given by the statistical particle size distribution to half the population, called D50. The average size can be a number average size determined by image analysis (electron microscopy). The inorganic nucleus can have a refractive index greater than or equal to 2, for example 2.1, or even 2.2.
0055The inorganic nucleus may also comprise a material chosen from the non-limiting list comprising metallic salts and metallic oxides, in particular oxides of titanium, zirconium, cerium, zinc, iron, ferric blue, aluminum and chromium , aluminas, glasses, ceramics, graphite, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica, and their mixtures.
0056Titanium oxides, especially TiO<sub>2</sub>, iron, especially Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>, cerium, zinc and aluminum, silicates, especially aluminosilicates and borosilicates are particularly suitable.
0057The inorganic nucleus may have a specific surface, measured by the BET method, for example between approximately 1 m<sup>2</sup>/ g and about 1000 m<sup>2</sup>/ g, better between about 10 m<sup>2</sup>/ g and about 600 m<sup>2</sup>/ g, for example between about 20 m<sup>2</sup>/ g and about 400 m<sup>2</sup>/ g.
0058The inorganic nucleus can be colored, if desired.
0059The mass proportion of the core can exceed 50% relative to the total weight of the composite pigment, for example ranging from 50% to 70%, for example from 60% to 70%.
<i><u>Organic coloring matter</u></i>
0060The organic coloring matter may for example comprise at least one organic pigment, for example at least one organic lacquer.
0061The organic coloring matter can be chosen, for example, from particulate compounds which are insoluble in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition.
0062The organic coloring matter comprises, for example pigments, for example organic lacquers or other organic coloring matters chosen from the compounds below and their mixtures:<ul id="ul0005" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>organic pigments of azo dyes,</li><li>organic lakes or insoluble organic salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, azo acid dyes.</li></ul>
0063Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned in particular those known under the following names:, D&C Brown n ° 1, D&C Orange n ° 4, D&C Red n ° 6, D&C Red n ° 7, D&C Red n ° 17, D&C Red n ° 31, D&C Red n ° 33, D&C Red n ° 34, D&C Red n ° 36, D&C Yellow n ° 11, FD&C Red n ° 40, FD&C Yellow n ° 5, FD&C Yellow n ° 6.
0064The organic coloring matter can comprise an organic lacquer supported by an organic support such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example.
0065Among the organic lacquers, mention may in particular be made of those known under the following names: D&C Red n ° 2 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 6 Barium lake, D&C Red n ° 6 Barium / Strontium lake, D&C Red n ° 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red n ° 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red n ° 7 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 7 Barium lake, D&C Red n ° 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red n ° 7 Calcium / Strontium lake, D&C Red n ° 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n ° 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red n ° 9 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 9 Barium lake, D&C Red n ° 9 Barium / Strontium lake, D&C Red n ° 9 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n ° 10 Sodium lake, D&C Red n ° 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red n ° 33 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red n ° 36 lake, D&C Red n ° 40 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n ° 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n ° 17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow n ° 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow n ° 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow n ° 6 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red n ° 4 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red n ° 40 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow n ° 5 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow n ° 6 Aluminum lake.
0066The chemical compounds corresponding to each of the organic coloring matters mentioned above are mentioned in the work <nplcit id="ncit0001" npl-type="b"><text>"International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionnary and Handbook", 1997 Edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association"</text></nplcit>, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference.
0067The mass proportion of organic coloring matter can be between approximately 10 parts and approximately 500 parts by weight per 100 parts of the inorganic nucleus, or even between approximately 20 parts and approximately 250 parts by weight, for example between approximately 40 parts and approximately 125 parts in weight per 100 parts of the inorganic nucleus.
0068The proportion of the organic coloring matter may exceed 30% relative to the total weight of the composite pigment, for example ranging from 30 to 50%, for example from 30 to 40%.
<u>Binder</u>
0069The binder can be of any type as long as it allows the organic coloring matter to adhere to the surface of the inorganic core.
0070The binder can in particular be chosen from a non-limiting list comprising silicone compounds, polymeric, oligomeric or similar compounds, and in particular from organosilanes, fluoroalkylated organosilanes and polysiloxanes, for example polymethylhydrogenosiloxane, as well as various coupling agents, such as coupling agents based on silanes, titanates, aluminates, zirconates and their mixtures.
0071The silicone compound can be chosen from a non-limiting list comprising in particular:<ul id="ul0006" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>organosilanes (1) obtained from alkoxysilanes,</li><li>the polysiloxanes (2) modified or not chosen from a non-limiting list comprising:</li><li>modified polysiloxanes (2A) comprising at least one radical chosen from, in particular, polyethers, polyesters and epoxy compounds (they will be called “modified polysiloxanes”),</li><li>polysiloxanes (2B) relating to a silicon atom located at the end of the polymer, at least one group chosen from a non-limiting list comprising carboxylic acids, alcohols or hydroxy groups, and</li><li>fluoroalkylated organosilane compounds (3) obtained from fluoroalkylsilanes.</li></ul>
0072The organosilane compounds (1) can be obtained from alkoxysilane compounds represented by formula (I): R<sup>1</sup><sub>at</sub>Six<sub>4-a</sub> (I) in which :<ul id="ul0007" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>R<sup>1</sup> represents C<sub>6</sub>H<sub>5</sub>-, (CH<sub>3</sub>)<sub>2</sub>CH-CH<sub>2</sub>- or a type C radical<sub>b</sub>H<sub>2b + 1</sub>- (where b varies from 1 to 18),</li><li>X represents CH<sub>3</sub>O- or C<sub>2</sub>H<sub>5</sub>O-, and</li><li>a ranges from 0 to 3.</li></ul>
0073Specific examples of alkoxysilane compounds can include the alkoxysilanes selected from: methyltriethoxysilane, dimethyldiethoxysilane, phenyltriethoxysilane, diphenyldiethoxysilane, methyltrimethoxysilane, dimethyldimethoxysilane, phenyltrimethoxysilane, diphenyldimethoxysilane, isobutyltrimethoxysilane, decyltrimethoxysilane and the like, in particular from methyltriethoxysilane, phenyltriethoxysilane, methyltrimethoxysilane, dimethyldimethoxysilane, the isobutyltrimethoxysilane, and even better methyltriethoxysilane, methyltrimethoxysilane, phenyltriethoxysilane.
0074The polysiloxanes (2) can in particular correspond to formula (II):<chemistry id="chem0001" num="0001"><img file="EP1586295B1_D0001.tif" /></chemistry>in which R<sup>2</sup> represents H- or CH<sub>3</sub>- and d varies from 15 to 450.
0075Among these polysiloxanes, those for which R<sup>2</sup> represents H are preferred.
0076The modified polysiloxanes (2A) can in particular respond to the following formulas:<ul id="ul0008" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>(at<sup>1</sup>) modified polysiloxanes carrying polyethers, represented by formula (III)<chemistry id="chem0002" num="0002"><img file="EP1586295B1_D0002.tif" /></chemistry>in which R<sup>3</sup> represents - (CH<sub>2</sub>)<sub>h</sub>-; R<sup>4</sup> represents - (CH<sub>2</sub>)<sub>i</sub>-CH<sub>3</sub> ; R<sup>5</sup> represents -OH, - COOH, -CH = CH<sub>2</sub>, -C (CH<sub>3</sub>) = CH<sub>2</sub> or - (CH<sub>2</sub>)<sub>j</sub>-CH<sub>3</sub> ; R<sup>6</sup> represents - (CH2)<sub>k</sub>-CH<sub>3</sub> ; g and h independently varying from 1 to 15; j and k independently varying from 0 to 15; e varying from 1 to 50 and f varying from 1 to 300,</li><li>(at<sup>2</sup>) modified polysiloxanes carrying polyesters, represented by formula (IV):<chemistry id="chem0003" num="0003"><img file="EP1586295B1_D0003.tif" /></chemistry>in which R<sup>7</sup>, R<sup>8</sup> and R<sup>9</sup> independently represent - (CH<sub>2</sub>)<sub>q</sub>-; R<sup>10</sup> represents -OH; -COOH, -CH = CH<sub>2</sub>, -C (CH<sub>3</sub>) = CH<sub>2</sub> or - (CH<sub>2</sub>)<sub>r</sub>-CH<sub>3</sub> ; R<sup>11</sup> represents - (CH<sub>2</sub>)<sub>s</sub>-CH<sub>3</sub> ; n and q varying independently from 1 to 15, r and s which may be identical or different varying from 0 to 15; e varying from 1 to 50 and f varying from 1 to 300,</li><li>(at<sup>3</sup>) modified polysiloxanes carrying epoxy radicals represented by formula (V):<chemistry id="chem0004" num="0004"><img file="EP1586295B1_D0004.tif" /></chemistry>in which R<sup>12</sup> represents - (CH<sub>2</sub>)<sub>v</sub>-; v varying from 1 to 15; t varying from 1 to 50 and u varying from 1 to 300; or their mixtures.</li></ul>Among the modified polysiloxanes (2A), the modified polysiloxanes carrying polyethers of formula (III) are preferred. The polysiloxanes modified on the terminal part (2B) can correspond to the formula (VI):<chemistry id="chem0005" num="0005"><img file="EP1586295B1_D0005.tif" /></chemistry>in which R<sup>13</sup> and R<sup>14</sup> can represent -OH, R<sup>16</sup>-OH or R<sup>17</sup>-COOH, independently of each other; R<sup>15</sup> represents -CH<sub>3</sub> or -C<sub>6</sub>H<sub>5</sub> ; R<sup>16</sup> and R<sup>17</sup> represent- (CH<sub>2</sub>)<sub>y</sub>-; y varying from 1 to 15; w varying from 1 to 200 and x varying from 0 to 100.
0077Among these polysiloxanes modified on at least one end, those carrying at least radical (R<sup>16</sup> and / or R<sup>17</sup>) carrying a carboxylic acid group on at least one terminal silicon atom are more preferred.
0078The fluoroalkylated organosilane compounds (3) can be obtained from fluoroalkyl silanes represented by the formula (VII): CF<sub>3</sub>(CF<sub>2</sub>)<sub>z</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>(R<sup>18</sup>)<sub>at</sub>Six<sub>4-a</sub> (VII) in which :<ul id="ul0009" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>R<sup>18</sup> represents CH<sub>3</sub>-, VS<sub>2</sub>H<sub>5</sub>-, CH<sub>3</sub>O- or C<sub>2</sub>H<sub>5</sub>O-,</li><li>X represents CH<sub>3</sub>O- or C<sub>2</sub>H<sub>5</sub>O-,</li><li>Z ranges from 0 to 15 and a ranges from 0 to 3.</li></ul>
0079The fluoroalkylsilanes may be selected in a non limiting list trifluoropropyltrimethoxysilane, tridecafluorooctyltrimethoxysilane, heptadecafluorodecyltrimethoxysilane, the heptadécafluorodécylméthyldiméthoxysilane, trifluoropropyltriethoxysilane, tridecafluorooctyltriethoxysilane, heptadecafluorodecyltriethoxysilane, heptadecafluorodecylmethyldiethoxysilane and the like, in particular trifluoropropyltrimethoxysilane, tridecafluorooctyltrimethoxysilane and heptadecafluorodecyltrimethoxysilane, and even better trifluoropropyl trimethoxysilane and tridecafluorooctyltrimethoxysilane.
0080The silane-based coupling agents can be chosen from a non-limiting list comprising in particular vinyltrimethoxysilane, vinyltriethoxysilane, γ-aminopropyl-triethoxysilane, γ-flycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane, γ-mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane, γ-methacroxy, γ-methacroxy ) -γ-aminopropyltrimethoxysilane, γ-glycidoxypropylmethyldimethoxysilane, γ-chloropropyltrimethoxysilane and the like.
0081Titanate-based coupling agents can be chosen from the list comprising isopropylstearoyl titanate, isopropyltris (dioctylpyrophosphate) titanate, isopropyltri (N-aminoethylaminoethyl) titanate, tetraoctylbis titanate (ditridecylphosphate), tetra (2,2-diaryloxymethyl-1-butyl) bis (ditridecyl) phosphate titanate, bis (dioctylpyrophosphate) oxyacetate titanate, bis (dioctylpyrophosphate) ethylene titanate and the like.
0082The aluminate-based coupling agents can be chosen from acetoalkoxyaluminum diisopropylate, aluminum diisopropoxymonoethylacetoacetate, aluminum triethylacetoacetate, aluminum triacetylacetonate and the like.
0083The zirconate-based coupling agents can be chosen from a list comprising in particular zirconium tetrakisacetylacetonate, zirconium dibutoxybisacetylacetonate, zirconium tetrakisethylacetoacetate, tributoxymonoethylacetoacetate of zirconium, their tributoxyacetylacetonate.
0084The compounds serving as a binder can in particular have a molar mass which can vary between 300 and 100,000.
0085To obtain a layer covering the inorganic cores uniformly, the binder is preferably in a liquid state or soluble in water or in different solvents.
0086The amount of binder can vary from 0.01 to 15%, in particular from 0.02 to 12.5% and in particular from 0.03 to 10% by weight (calculated relative to C or Si) relative to the weight of the particles comprising the nucleus and the binder. For further details on how to calculate the relative amount of the binder, see the request.<patcit id="pcit0002" dnum="EP1184426A2"><text>EP 1,184,426 A2</text></patcit>.
<i><u>Preparation of the composite pigment</u></i>
0087The composite pigment can be produced for example by one of the methods described in the European patent applications <patcit id="pcit0003" dnum="EP1184426A"><text>EP 1,184,426</text></patcit> and <patcit id="pcit0004" dnum="EP1217046A"><text>EP 1,217,046</text></patcit>, the contents of which are incorporated here by reference, advantageously by the method described in the application <patcit id="pcit0005" dnum="EP1184426A"><text>EP 1,184,426</text></patcit>.
0088In an example of implementation, one begins by mixing the particles intended to constitute the inorganic nucleus with the binder.
0089In order for the binder to adhere uniformly to the surface of the inorganic core, it is preferable to pass these particles beforehand through a grinder, so as to deagglomerate them.
0090The mixing and stirring conditions are chosen so that the core is uniformly covered with binder. These conditions can be controlled so that the linear load is between 19.6 and 19,160 N / cm, in particular between 98 and 14,170 N / cm and better still between 147 and 980 N / cm; the treatment time is in particular between 5 min and 24 hours and better still from 10 min to 20 hours; the rotation speed can be between 2 and 1000 rpm, in particular between 5 and 1000 rpm and better still between 10 and 800 rpm.
0091After the binder has covered the inorganic core, the organic coloring matter is added and mixed with agitation to adhere to the binder layer.
0092The addition methods can be, for example, addition by large quantity, continuously, or by small quantity.
0093Mixing and stirring, whether of inorganic nuclei with the binder or of organic coloring matter with the inorganic nuclei covered with binder, can be carried out using an apparatus capable of applying a spatial cutting and / or compressive force to the mixture powders. Such devices are, for example, wheel, blade and similar mixers. Wheeled mixers are particularly suitable. A list of suitable devices is given in the request <patcit id="pcit0006" dnum="EP1184426A2"><text>EP 1,184,426 A2</text></patcit>.
0094Another method of manufacturing a composite pigment is described in the patent <patcit id="pcit0007" dnum="JP3286463B"><text>JP 3286463</text></patcit>, which discloses a method of precipitation in solution.
0095The organic coloring matter is dissolved in ethanol, the inorganic nuclei are then dispersed in this ethanolic solution.
0096Then, an alkaline aqueous solution of sodium or potassium carbonate is slowly added to these mixtures, then last, slowly, an ethanolic solution of calcium chloride, all with stirring.
<i><u>OTHER COMPONENTS</u></i>
<i><u>Solvents</u></i>
0097The composition can comprise at least one aqueous or organic solvent.
0098When the composition comprises one or more organic solvents, these solvents may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
0099Generally, the amount of solvent (s), in particular organic (s), will depend on the nature of the support on which the composition is intended to be applied.
0100In the case of a nail varnish, for example, the organic solvent may be present in the composition at a content ranging for example from 30 to 99% by weight and preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
0101The composition can comprise at least one organic solvent chosen from the following list:<ul id="ul0010" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone, acetone;</li><li>alcohols liquid at room temperature such as ethanol, isopropanol, diacetone alcohol, 2-butoxyethanol, cyclohexanol;</li><li>glycols which are liquid at room temperature such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol;</li><li>propylene glycol ethers which are liquid at room temperature such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, dipropylene glycol mono n-butyl ether;</li><li>short chain esters (having 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, acetate d 'isopentyle;</li><li>alkanes which are liquid at room temperature such as decane, heptane, dodecane, cyclohexane;</li></ul>
0102The composition can also comprise water or a mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents commonly used in cosmetics such as alcohols and in particular linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, polyols such as glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol, pentethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols. The composition may, in addition, contain C ethers<sub>2</sub> and C aldehydes<sub>2</sub>-VS<sub>4</sub> hydrophilic. The water or the mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents may be present in the composition in a content ranging for example from 0% to 90%, in particular 0.1% to 90% by weight and preferably from 0% to 60% by weight, in particular 0.1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
<i><u>Fat phase</u></i>
0103The composition, in particular when it is intended to be applied to the lips, can comprise an oily phase and in particular at least one fatty substance liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and / or a fatty substance solid at room temperature such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums, and mixtures thereof. The fatty phase may, in addition, contain lipophilic organic solvents.
0104The composition may for example have a continuous fatty phase, which may contain less than 5% of water, in particular less than 1% of water relative to its total weight and in particular be in anhydrous form.
0105As fatty substances liquid at room temperature, often called "oils", there may be mentioned: vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids with 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or even sunflower, corn, soybean, grape seed, sesame oils, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter, lanolin, acetylated lanolin; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parlameam; synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids such as, for example, Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, erucate octyl-2-dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisoketyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; isononyl isonanoate, isopropyl lanolate, tridecyl trimellilate, diisostearyl malate; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol; partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils; silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), volatile or not, linear or cyclic, liquid or pasty at room temperature such as cyclomethicones, dimethicones, optionally comprising a phenyl group, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxanes, diphenylmethyldimethyl-trisilanes diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, polymethylphenyl siloxanes; their mixtures. The oils can be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 90%, and better still from 0.1 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
0106The pasty fatty substances are generally hydrocarbon compounds with a melting point between 25 and 60 ° C, preferably between 30 and 45 ° C, and / or a hardness between 0.001 and 0.5 MPa, preferably between 0.005 and 0.4 MPa, like lanolines and their derivatives.
0107Waxes can be solid at room temperature (25 ° C), reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above 30 ° C up to 200 ° C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state. In particular, the waxes can have a melting temperature above 25 ° C and better still above 45 ° C. The waxes can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. As usable waxes, mention may be made of beeswax, Carnauba or Candellila wax, paraffin, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene or Fischer Tropsch waxes, silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy-dimethicone having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms. The composition can contain from 0 to 50% by weight of waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even from 1 to 30% by weight.
0108The composition may advantageously contain a non-volatile oil of high molecular weight, for example between 650 to 10,000 g / mol, in particular in the case of a composition to be applied to the lips.
0109The composition may contain from 2 to 30%, preferably from 5 to 25%, from 5 to 15% of at least one oil with a molar mass ranging from 650 to 10,000 g / mol, and preferably ranging from 900 to 7,500 g / mol.
0110The non-volatile oil of high molecular weight can be an apolar oil, for example an apolar oil having a molecular weight of between 300 and 900 g / mol.
0111The oil of molecular mass ranging from 650 to 10,000 g / mol can be chosen from:<ul id="ul0011" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MM = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MM = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MM = 2160g / mol ) marketed or manufactured by AMOCO,</li><li>hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as PANALANE H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company AMOCO (M = 1340 g / mol), VISEAL 20000 sold or manufactured by the company SYNTEAL (MM = 6000 g / mol), REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by the company WITCO (MM = 1000 g / mol),</li><li>polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as PURESYN 150 (MM = 9200 g / mol) sold by the company MOBIL CHEMICALS,</li><li>vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, ANTARON V-216 sold or manufactured by the company ISP (MM = 7300 g / mol),</li><li>esters such as:<ol id="ol0001" compact="compact" ol-style=""><li>a) esters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MM = 697.05 g / mol),</li><li>b) hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MM = 965.58 g / mol),</li><li>c) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MM = 757.19 g / mol),</li><li>d) esters of fatty alcohol or of branched fatty acids at C<sub>24</sub>-VS<sub>28</sub> such as those described in the application <patcit id="pcit0008" dnum="EP0955039A"><text>EP-A-0 955 039</text></patcit>, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MM = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl teteasononanoate (MM = 697.05 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MM = 891.51 g / mol), tri-decyl-2 glyceryl tetradecanoate (MM = 1143.98 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MM = 1202.02 g / mol), polyglyceryl tetraisostearate -2 (MM = 1232.04 g / mol) or tetra decyl -2 pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate (MM = 1538.66 g / mol),</li><li>e) esters and polyesters of dimer diol, such as esters of dimer diol and of fatty acid, and esters of dimer diols and of diacid.</li></ol></li></ul>
0112The esters of dimer diol and of mono-carboxylic acid can be obtained from mono-carboxylic acid comprising from 4 to 34 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 32 carbon atoms, which acids are linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated.
0113Illustrative examples of mono-carboxylic acid include fatty acids.
0114The esters of dimer diol and of dicarboxylic acid can be obtained from a diacid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, in particular at C<sub>8</sub> at C<sub>34</sub>, especially in C<sub>12</sub> at C<sub>22</sub>, especially in C<sub>16</sub> at C<sub>20</sub>, and more particularly in C<sub>18</sub>.
0115According to a particular variant, it is more particularly the diacid dimer from which the dimer diol to be esterified is also derived.
0116The dimer diol esters can be obtained from a diol dimer produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a diacid dimer, for example hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid.
0117As an illustration of the dimer diol esters, mention may in particular be made of the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic dimer diols sold by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5<sup>®</sup> and DD-DA7<sup>®</sup>, <ul id="ul0012" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>silicone oils such as phenylated silicones such as BELSIL PDM 1000 from the company WACKER (MM = 9000 g / mol),</li><li>oils of vegetable origin such as sesame oil (820.6 g / mol),</li><li>and their mixtures.</li></ul>
0118In examples of implementation of the invention, the non-volatile oils can represent from 0.001 to 90% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 60% and better still from 1 to 35%.
0119The gums which can be used are generally high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or cellulose gums or polysaccharides.
<i><u>Film-forming polymer</u></i>
0120The composition may also comprise, for example, a film-forming polymer, in particular in the case of a mascara or a nail varnish. "Film-forming polymer" denotes a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials.
0121Among the film-forming polymers which can be used in a composition according to the invention, there may be mentioned inter alia synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, such as nitrocellulose or cellulose esters, and their mixtures .
0122The film-forming polymers of the radical type may in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.
0123The vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers such as α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid.
0124The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or from the copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and t-butyl benzoate. vinyl and styrene monomers such as styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.
0125Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and polyureas, this list not being limiting.
0126The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, can be chosen from shellac resin, sandara gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulose polymers, such as nitrocellulose, ethylcellulose or the nitrocellulose esters chosen. , for example, among cellulose acetate, cellulose acetobutyrate, cellulose acetopropionate, and mixtures thereof.
0127The film-forming polymer can be present in the form of solid particles in aqueous or oily dispersion, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. The film-forming polymer may comprise one or more stable dispersions of particles of generally spherical polymers of one or more polymers, in a physiologically acceptable liquid fatty phase. These dispersions are generally called NAD (Non-Aqueous Dispersion) of polymer as opposed to latexes which are aqueous dispersions of polymer. These dispersions can in particular be in the form of polymer nanoparticles in stable dispersion in said fatty phase. The nanoparticles are preferably of a size between 5 and 600 nm. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
0128As an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, use may be made of the acrylic dispersions sold under the names NEOCRYL XK-90<sup>®</sup>, NEOCRYL A-1070<sup>®</sup>, NEOCRYL A-1090<sup>®</sup>, NEOCRYL BT-62<sup>®</sup>, NEOCRYL A-1079<sup>®</sup>, NEOCRYL A-523<sup>®</sup> by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, DOW LATEX 432<sup>®</sup> by the company DOW CHEMICAL, DAITOSOL 5000 AD<sup>®</sup> by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO; or the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names NEOREZ R-981<sup>®</sup>, NEOREZ R-974<sup>®</sup> by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, the AVALURE UR-405<sup>®</sup>, AVALURE UR-410<sup>®</sup>, AVALURE UR-425<sup>®</sup>, AVALURE UR-450<sup>®</sup>, SANCURE 875<sup>®</sup>, SANCURE 861<sup>®</sup>, SANCURE 878<sup>®</sup>, SANCURE 2060<sup>®</sup> by the company GOODRICH, IMPRANIL 85<sup>®</sup> by the company BAYER, AQUAMERE H-1511<sup>®</sup> by the company H YDROMER; sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ by the company Eastman Chemical Products.
0129The composition according to the invention can also comprise an auxiliary film-forming agent promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer.
<i><u>Charges</u></i>
0130The composition may further comprise fillers. By "fillers" is meant particles of any shape, insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is produced. These fillers can be used in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. The nature and quantity of the solid bodies depend on the mechanical properties and the desired textures.
0131By way of example of fillers, mention may be made, among others, of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, sericite, polyamide, polyethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene, polymethyl methacrylate, polyurethane powders, starch powders and silicone resin beads.
<i><u>Additional coloring matter</u></i>
0132The composition may comprise an additional coloring material, different from the composite pigment used in the present invention.
0133The additional coloring matter can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, pearlescent pigments, liposoluble or water-soluble dyes.
0134The mineral pigments can be white or colored, coated or on. Mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally treated at the surface, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. The pigments can represent from 0 to 40%, preferably from 1 to 35%, and better still from 2 to 25% of the total weight of the composition.
0135The pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with especially ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can represent from 0 to 20% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 15% (if present).
0136Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.
0137The liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow.
0138The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and methylene blue.
0139The dyes can represent from 0.1 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 6% (if present).
<i><u>Other ingredients</u></i>
0140The composition can comprise at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient. As cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical active agents which can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of moisturizers (polyol like glycerin), vitamins (C, A, E, F, B, or PP), essential fatty acids, essential oils, ceramides, sphingolipids, liposoluble sunscreens or in the form of nanoparticles, the specific active ingredients for skin treatment (protective agents, anti-bacterials, anti-wrinkles, etc.). These active agents can be used for example at concentrations of 0 to 20% and in particular from 0.001 to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition.
0141The cosmetic composition may also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as for example thickeners, surfactants, trace elements, moisturizers, softeners, sequestrants, perfumes, alkalizing or acidifying agents, preservatives, antioxidants UV filters, dyes or their mixtures.
0142The composition according to the invention may comprise, depending on the type of application envisaged, the constituents conventionally used in the fields under consideration, which are present in an amount suitable for the desired dosage form.
<i><u>Dosage forms</u></i>
0143The composition can come in various forms, depending on its destination. The composition can thus be in any dosage form normally used for topical application and in particular in anhydrous form, in the form of an oily or aqueous solution, of an oily or aqueous gel, of an oil in water, water in emulsion. oil, wax in water or water in wax, of a multiple emulsion, of a dispersion of oil in water thanks to vesicles located at the oil / water interface.
0144The composition can be in the form of a cast product, in particular a stick in the case of a lipstick or a lip care product.
0145The composition can also be in various other forms, for example a more or less viscous liquid, a gel or a paste.
0146The composition can also be in the form of a solid, for example a loaf to be moistened at the time of use, so as to allow it to disintegrate.
0147The cosmetic composition can constitute a makeup composition, inter alia, a lipstick, a liquid gloss, a lipstick paste, a blush, a lip pencil, a solid or fluid foundation, an anti - dark circles or around the eyes, an eyeliner, a mascara, a nail polish, an eye shadow, a product for making up the body or the hair, or even a sun or skin coloring product.
0148The invention therefore also relates to a lipstick, liquid or solid, comprising a composition as defined above.
0149The subject of the invention is also a foundation comprising a composition as defined above.
0150The subject of the invention is also a nail varnish comprising a composition as defined above.
0151The invention also relates to a mascara comprising a composition as defined above.
0152The subject of the invention is also a product for dyeing hair fibers comprising a composition as defined above.
0153The subject of the invention is also a process for making up the skin, the lips or the integuments, in which a composition as defined above is applied to the skin, the lips or the integuments.
<i><u>EXAMPLES</u></i>
0154Cosmetic compositions comprising composite pigments with the following formulations have been produced, by way of illustration, these compositions being prepared according to the preparation methods conventionally used in cosmetics.
<u>Example 1: Lipstick</u>
0155A lipstick of the following composition was prepared (quantities expressed in% by mass relative to the total weight of the composition):<tables id="tabl0001" num="0001"><table frame="bottom"><tgroup cols="2" colsep="0" rowsep="0"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="113mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="53mm" /><tbody><row><entry>Polyethylene wax (Polywax 500 from BARECO)</entry><entry align="right">8,8</entry></row><row><entry>Microcrystalline wax (SP 18 from STRAHL & PITSCH)</entry><entry align="right">4</entry></row><row><entry>Palmitic-lauric-stearic acid triglyceride</entry><entry align="right">5</entry></row><row><entry>(SASOL Softisan 100)</entry><entry align="right" /></row><row><entry>Octyldodecanol</entry><entry align="right">17,5</entry></row><row><entry>Lanolin oil</entry><entry align="right">10,7</entry></row><row><entry>Acetylated lanolin oil</entry><entry align="right">10,7</entry></row><row><entry>Isopropyl lanolate</entry><entry align="right">10,7</entry></row><row><entry>Tridecyl trimellilate</entry><entry align="right">11,7</entry></row><row><entry>Diisostearyl malate</entry><entry align="right">14,6</entry></row><row><entry>Phenyl trimethicone (DC 556 from DOW CORNING)</entry><entry align="right">4,8</entry></row><row><entry>Silica / D & C Red7 composite pigment<sup>1</sup></entry><entry align="right">1,5</entry></row></tbody></tgroup><tgroup cols="2" rowsep="0"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="113mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="53mm" /><tbody><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col2" align="justify"><sup>1</sup>Composite pigment consisting of 50 parts by weight of organic pigment D&C Red N ° 7 per 100 parts of an inorganic silica core of medium size 15 nm and a specific surface 200 m<sup>2</sup>/ g and produced with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane binder.</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>
<u>Example 2: Lipstick (reference)</u>
Out of the invention
0156A lipstick having the following composition was also prepared (quantities expressed in% by mass relative to the total weight of the composition):<tables id="tabl0002" num="0002"><table frame="bottom"><tgroup cols="2" colsep="0" rowsep="0"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="113mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="53mm" /><tbody><row><entry>Polyethylene wax (Polywax 500 from BARECO)</entry><entry align="right">8,8</entry></row><row><entry>Microcrystalline wax (SP 18 from STRAHL & PITSCH)</entry><entry align="right">4</entry></row><row><entry>Palmitic-lauric-stearic acid triglyceride</entry><entry align="right">5</entry></row><row><entry>(SASOL Softisan 100)</entry><entry align="right" /></row><row><entry>Octyldodecanol</entry><entry align="right">17,5</entry></row><row><entry>Lanolin oil</entry><entry align="right">10,7</entry></row><row><entry>Acetylated lanolin oil</entry><entry align="right">10,7</entry></row><row><entry>Isopropyl lanolate</entry><entry align="right">10,7</entry></row><row><entry>Tridecyl trimellilate</entry><entry align="right">11,7</entry></row><row><entry>Diisostearyl malate</entry><entry align="right">14,6</entry></row><row><entry>Phenyl trimethicone (DC 556 from DOW CORNING)</entry><entry align="right">4,8</entry></row><row><entry>TiO composite pigment<sub>2</sub>/ D & C Red7<sup>2</sup></entry><entry align="right">1,5</entry></row></tbody></tgroup><tgroup cols="2" rowsep="0"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="113mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="53mm" /><tbody><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col2" align="justify"><sup>2</sup> Composite pigment consisting of 50 parts by weight of organic pigment D&C Red N ° 7 per 100 parts of an inorganic core of titanium dioxide of average size 20 nm and specific surface 50 m<sup>2</sup>/ g, this composite pigment being produced with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane binder.</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>
<u>Comparative example: Lipstick</u>
0157A lipstick having the following composition, not in accordance with the invention since it was produced with only a pure conventional organic pigment for pigment, was prepared (quantities expressed in% by mass relative to the total weight of the composition):<tables id="tabl0003" num="0003"><table frame="bottom"><tgroup cols="2" colsep="0" rowsep="0"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="89mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="13mm" /><tbody><row><entry>Polyethylene wax (Polywax 500 from BARECO)</entry><entry align="right">8,8</entry></row><row><entry>Microcrystalline wax (SP 18 from STRAHL & PITSCH)</entry><entry align="right">4</entry></row><row><entry>Palmitic-lauric-stearic acid triglyceride</entry><entry align="right">5</entry></row><row><entry>(SASOL Softisan 100)</entry><entry align="right" /></row><row><entry>Octyldodecanol</entry><entry align="right">17,5</entry></row><row><entry>Lanolin oil</entry><entry align="right">10,7</entry></row><row><entry>Acetylated lanolin oil</entry><entry align="right">10,7</entry></row><row><entry>Isopropyl lanolate</entry><entry align="right">10,7</entry></row><row><entry>Tridecyl trimellilate</entry><entry align="right">11,7</entry></row><row><entry>Diisostearyl malate</entry><entry align="right">14,6</entry></row><row><entry>Phenyl trimethicone (DC 556 from DOW CORNING)</entry><entry align="right">4,8</entry></row><row><entry>D&C Red 7 Pure Organic Pigment<sup>3</sup></entry><entry align="right">1,5</entry></row></tbody></tgroup><tgroup cols="2" rowsep="0"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="89mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="13mm" /><tbody><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col2" align="justify"><sup>3</sup> Organic pigment D&C Red N ° 7.</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>
0158The compositions of Examples 1, 2 and of the Comparative Example contain the same ingredients in the same proportions, except for the pigments.
0159To prepare each of the compositions of Examples 1, 2 and the Comparative Example, the pigment is ground in the presence of part of the oils. The rest of the oils are mixed with the waxes and heated to about 90 ° C. After homogenization, the ground pigment is added. The mixture is then poured into molds and cooled.
<i><u>Color measurement</u></i>
0160The clarity L * and the saturation C * of each of the compositions of examples 1, 2 and of the comparative example were measured in the CIE color space L * a * b *.<tables id="tabl0004" num="0004"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="4"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="24mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="20mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="20mm" /><colspec colnum="4" colname="col4" colwidth="33mm" /><thead><row><entry valign="middle" /><entry align="center" valign="middle">Example 1</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">Example 2</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">Comparative example</entry></row></thead><tbody><row rowsep="0"><entry valign="middle">Clarity L *</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">34,6</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">36,6</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">34,8</entry></row><row><entry valign="middle">Saturation C *</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">39,0</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">41,9</entry><entry align="center" valign="middle">39,0</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>
0161The compositions of Examples 1 and 2 have clarity L * and saturation C * similar to those of the composition of Comparative Example 1.
<i><u>Transparency measurement</u></i>
0162The compositions of Examples 1, 2 and of the Comparative Example were uniformly crushed between two quartz plates, one of which is hollowed out to a thickness of 30 μm. The total transmission was measured between 400 nm and 700 nm using a JASCO V-550 spectrophotometer equipped with an integration sphere.
0163The curves corresponding to the total transmission measurements for the compositions of examples 1, 2 and that of the comparative example are reproduced on the <figref idref="f0001">figure 1</figref>.
0164It can be seen that the compositions of Examples 1 and 2 are less absorbent and therefore more transparent or translucent than the composition of the comparative example.
<i><u>Coverage measurement</u></i>
0165The covering power of the compositions of Examples 1, 2 and the Comparative Example was measured using the method described above.
0166The measured covering power of the composition of example 1 is 18, that of the composition of example 2 is 22, while the composition of the comparative example has a measured covering power of 46.
0167The composition of the comparative example is more covering than that of Examples 1 and 2.
<u>Example 3: Nail Polish</u>
0168A nail varnish having the following formulation, in accordance with the invention, was prepared (quantities expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition)<tables id="tabl0005" num="0005"><table frame="none"><tgroup cols="2" colsep="0" rowsep="0"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="60mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="17mm" /><tbody><row><entry>Nitrocellulose</entry><entry align="right">19</entry></row><row><entry>N-ethyl-o, p-toluene sulfonamide</entry><entry align="right">6</entry></row><row><entry>Acetyl tributyl citrate</entry><entry align="right">6</entry></row><row><entry>Rheological agent (hectorite)</entry><entry align="right">1,2</entry></row><row><entry>Silica composite pigment / D & C Red N ° 7</entry><entry align="right">3</entry></row><row><entry>Isopropanol</entry><entry align="right">8</entry></row><row><entry>Ethyl acetate / Butyl acetate</entry><entry align="right">qsq 100</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>
0169This composition is transparent and has a saturated color.
0170Of course, the invention is not limited to the examples which have just been given.
0171Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.
0172The intervals given must be included, limits included, unless otherwise specified.
0173Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.
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| Amendment of ipc main classPREVIOUS MAIN CLASS: A61K0007020000R079 | R079 | DE | |
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Numbers
- Publication
- 1586295
- Publication, DOCDB
- 1586295
- Publication, EPODOC
- EP1586295
- Application
- 53002655
- Application, DOCDB
- 05300265
- Application, EPODOC
- EP20050300265
Titles3
- German
- Kosmetische Zusammensetzung für die Haut, die Lippen, und / oder die Fingernägel.
- English
- Cosmetic composition for skin, lips and / or nails.
- French
- Composition destinée à être appliquée sur la peau, les lèvres et/ou les phanères.
Classification
- CPC, 13
- A61K8/0241
- A61K8/11
- A61K8/19
- A61K8/25
- A61K8/29
- A61K8/445
- A61K2800/412
- A61K2800/413
- A61K2800/43
- A61K2800/436
- A61K2800/623
- A61Q1/06
- A61Q3/02
- IPC, 23
- A61K8 18
- A61K8 25
- A61K8 00
- A61K8 02
- A61K8 04
- A61K8 11
- A61K8 19
- A61K8 26
- A61K8 29
- A61K8 44
- A61K8 89
- A61K8 891
- A61K8 92
- A61Q1 00
- A61Q1 02
- A61Q1 04
- A61Q1 06
- A61Q1 10
- A61Q1 12
- A61Q3 00
- A61Q3 02
- A61Q5 06
- A61Q5 10
Designated states1
- Contracting states, 1
- Türkiye
