Low-viscosity W/O Emulsions

The present invention relates to low-viscosity, in particular sprayable W / O emulsions. In a special embodiment, the present invention also relates to use as a sun protection product.

Emulsions belong to the disperse systems. Emulsions are two- or multi-phase systems of two or more liquids that are not or only sparingly soluble in each other. The liquids (pure or as solutions) are present in an emulsion in a more or less fine distribution, which is generally only of limited stability.

Known low-viscosity W / O emulsions, ie with a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa s, determinable with a Haake Viscotester VT-02 at 25 ° C, which are particularly sprayable, contain at least two emulsifiers which are combined to stabilize the emulsion. For example, in DE 10154547 a W / S, a W / O and an O / W emulsifier have to be combined in order to be able to provide a low-viscosity emulsion.

According to the current state of the art, it is not possible to produce stable, sprayable W / O emulsions with only one emulsifier. In addition, available sprayable emulsions with two or more emulsifiers have some undesirable side effects, such as increased formula instability at both high and low temperatures.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a low-viscosity W / O emulsion which has improved storage stability, in particular at lower temperatures.

Current formulations also contain a very high content of low-boiling, very low-viscosity silicone oils (for example 25-40% by weight of cyclomethicone) to ensure sprayability, as described, for example, by US 4,563,346. These silicone oils then - almost exclusively - form the continuous phase of the emulsion.

Layer silicates, for example WO 9614051, or organopolysiloxanes, for example WO 9618374, are also used to stabilize low-viscosity W / O emulsions. As a result, it is not possible with conventional pump systems to produce a fine and uniform spray pattern.

Another disadvantage of the prior art is that in such emulsions, especially those with a high silicone oil content, UV filters which are solid at room temperature, such as from the triazine group, dissolve only to a very limited extent and therefore only sun protection products with a low sun protection factor (SPF , SPF).

Another disadvantage is that very thin-bodied emulsions are generally not stable in the long term and, in combination with a high proportion of light protection filters, an irreversible oil separation occurs after a relatively short time, approx. 3 to 6 months, which is even accelerated at higher storage temperatures.

The use concentration of known light protection filter substances, which also have a high filter effect, especially in the UV-A range, is therefore often limited, especially in combination with other substances to be dissolved. To z. B. to use large amounts of oil-soluble UV filter substances, one would need a very large oil phase (> 30 wt.% Or over 40 wt.%). However, the hydrophobic phase of an emulsion - for example a W / O emulsion - cannot of course be chosen to be of any size, since the size of the phases also has a decisive influence on the stability of an emulsion. If a large oil phase (of more than about 30% by weight) is desired, stabilizers such as waxes or other emulsifiers must therefore be used according to the prior art in order to obtain a long-term stable emulsion with a stability of several years. The disadvantage of this procedure, however, is that the emulsions become relatively solid and - especially on hairy skin - are no longer as easy to distribute.

Another method known from the prior art for producing light protection preparations with very high light protection factors (SPF greater than 25) is to combine UV filter substances in such a way that not all of the UV filter quantity is in the oil phase of the emulsion, which is self-evident is only possible if water-soluble UV filter substances are also used. The disadvantage of such emulsions, which contain water-soluble UV filter substances, is that they are usually only partially water-resistant.

However, the water resistance of light protection formulations is of particular importance, since most sunscreens are used near the water or during sporting activities (sweating). A waterproof sunscreen not only protects the user after bathing, but also protects him from sunburn while bathing. It is a common misconception that water offers good or even sufficient protection against ultraviolet radiation. Rather, studies have shown that 1 m below the water surface the permeability to UV-B rays is approx. 50%. It is therefore advisable that water sports enthusiasts such. B. swimmers, surfers or snorkeling, and especially children who often play for hours on or in the water, protect the skin with a well-adhering, difficult to rinse off by (salt) water and sweat sun product from too intense and excessive sun exposure.

In the interests of optimal water resistance, it would therefore be desirable to dispense with water-soluble UV filters.

The object of the present task was therefore not only to enrich the state of the art and to remedy its disadvantages, but also to provide low-viscosity W / O emulsions which, while maintaining the formula stability, have an increased proportion of light protection filters. It was therefore also the object of the present invention to obtain preparations which have a high UVA or Achieve UVB protection performance, are to be applied in the form of sun protection sprays and at the same time are characterized by good water resistance and good spreadability.

The stated tasks are solved by preparations according to the main claim. The subclaims relate to advantageous embodiments of the preparations according to the invention. The invention further comprises the use of such preparations. It was surprising and the solution to these problems lies in the fact that cosmetic or dermatological preparations based on a low viscosity W / O emulsion comprise more than 30% by weight of lipids, based on the total mass of the preparation, the preparation being only one emulsifier, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, and the preparation has a viscosity in the range of 50 to 2000 mPa s, preferably 100 to 600 mPa s, which completely solves the problems.

It was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that the use of PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate as the only emulsifier enables the use of a high proportion of lipids and that this preparation enables the required thin liquid and in particular the sprayability The viscosity can be determined with a Haake Viscotester VT-02 at 25 ° C and is advantageously 50 to 2000 mPa s, ideally 100 to 600 mPa s.

PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate is known and is sold, for example, under the trade name ARLACEL® P135. According to the invention, the preparation contains no further emulsifiers. Surprisingly, the combination of this emulsifier with a high lipid content and a low viscosity setting is crucial for the provision of a low-viscosity preparation which helps to avoid the disadvantages of the prior art shown.

In all respects, the preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations which have good formula and storage stability, are long-term stable even at low temperatures and, as a light protection preparation, enable the use of large amounts of light protection filter quantities.

The high lipid content is more than 30% by weight, in particular more than 35% by weight, particularly preferably even greater than 37.5% by weight and very particularly preferably more than 40% by weight of lipids, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation. This division of the lipid proportions should be selected depending on the product form.

According to the invention, the lipid phase does not include the emulsifier or other active ingredients or additives which may have lipophilic properties.

In the context of the present disclosure, the term “lipids” is used as a generic term for fats, oils, waxes and the like, as is well known to the person skilled in the art. The terms "oil phase" and "lipid phase" are also used synonymously.

Oils and fats differ among other things in their polarity, which is difficult to define. It has already been proposed to adopt the interfacial tension with water as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or an oil phase. It applies that the polarity of the oil phase in question is greater, the lower the interfacial tension between this oil phase and water. According to the invention, the interfacial tension is viewed as a possible measure of the polarity of a given oil component.

The interfacial tension is the force that acts on an imaginary line of one meter in length that lies in the interface between two phases. The physical unit for this interfacial tension is calculated classically according to the relationship force / length and is usually given in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters). It has a positive sign if it tries to reduce the size of the interface. In the opposite case, it has a negative sign. Lipids whose interfacial tension against water is less than 20 mN / m are regarded as polar in the sense of the present invention than nonpolar ones whose interfacial tension against water is more than 30 mN / m. Lipids with an interfacial tension against water between 20 and 30 mN / m are generally referred to as medium polar.

The lipids are preferably selected from the group of medium to non-polar lipids with an interfacial tension against water of 20 to 30 mN / m or more than 30 mN / m.

The proportion of polar lipids with an interfacial tension against water of less than 20 mN / m is advantageously less than 25% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, based on the total mass of lipids. Polar oils are, for example, those from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, such as, for example, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like . As a representative of the polar lipids, Cocoglycides, Cocoglycerides, has also proven successful.

Particularly advantageous polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are all native lipids, such as, for. As olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, avocado oil and the like and those listed below.<tables id="tabl0001" num="0001"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0001.tif" /></tables><tables id="tabl0002" num="0002"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0002.tif" /></tables>

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase contains C_12-15-Alkylbenzoate has or consists entirely of this.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet, who described their production for the first time. They arise from the reaction equation<chemistry id="chem0001" num="0001"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0003.tif" /></chemistry> by oxidation of an alcohol to an aldehyde, by aldol condensation of the aldehyde, elimination of water from the aldol and hydrogenation of the allyl aldehyde. Guerbet alcohols are liquid even at low temperatures and cause practically no skin irritation. They can advantageously be used as greasing, over-greasing and also moisturizing components in skin and hair care products.

The use of Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics is known per se. Such species are usually characterized by their structure<chemistry id="chem0002" num="0002"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0004.tif" /></chemistry> out. Here R mean₁ and R₂ usually unbranched alkyl radicals.

According to the invention, the Guerbet alcohol or alcohols are advantageously selected from the group in which<dl id="dl0001" compact="compact"><dt>R₁ =</dt><dd>Propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl and</dd><dt>R₂ =</dt><dd>Hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl or tetradecyl.</dd></dl>

Guerbet alcohols preferred according to the invention are 2-butyloctanol - it has the chemical structure<chemistry id="chem0003" num="0003"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0005.tif" /></chemistry> and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 12 from Condea Chemie GmbH - and the 2-hexyldecanol - it has the chemical structure<chemistry id="chem0004" num="0004"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0006.tif" /></chemistry> and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 16 from Condea Chemie GmbH. Mixtures of Guerbet alcohols according to the invention can also be used advantageously according to the invention. Mixtures of 2-butyl octanol and 2-hexyl decanol are available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 14 from Condea Chemie GmbH.

Particularly advantageous medium-polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are the substances listed below:<tables id="tabl0003" num="0003"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0007.tif" /></tables><tables id="tabl0004" num="0004"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0008.tif" /></tables>

Nonpolar oils are, for example, those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

Particularly advantageous nonpolar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are the substances listed below:<tables id="tabl0005" num="0005"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0009.tif" /></tables><tables id="tabl0006" num="0006"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0010.tif" /></tables>

However, it is also advantageous to use mixtures of higher and lower polar lipids. The lipids are preferably selected from the group of dicaprylyl carbonates, butylene glycol dicaprylates / dicaprates and / or C12-15 alkyl benzoates. The oil phase can also be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, specifically the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like, provided the conditions specified in the main and subclaims be respected.

Waxes can also be used, but up to a maximum of 3.0% by weight, preferably up to a maximum of 1.5%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Fat and / or wax components to be used advantageously according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes. Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), Bürzelfettite, ceresin Earth wax), paraffin waxes and micro waxes, provided that the conditions specified in the claims are met.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as those under the trade names Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate) and Syncrowax AW 1C (C_18-36 Fatty acid) available from CRODA GmbH as well as montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (e.g. Dimethicon Copolyol beeswax and / or C_30-50-Alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats, such as. B. hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C_20-40Alkyl stearate, C_20-40-Alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate. Also particularly advantageous are certain organosilicon compounds which have physical properties similar to those of the fat and / or wax components mentioned, such as stearoxytrimethylsilane, provided that the conditions specified in the respective claims are met.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C._12-15Alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonates, and cococlycerides, provided that the conditions required in the claims are met.

Mixtures of octyldodecanol, caprylic capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, cocoglycerides, or mixtures of C._12-15Alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C._12-15Alkylbenzoate and butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate and mixtures of C._12-15Alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate if the conditions required in the respective claims are met.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. if the conditions required in the claims are met.

It can also be advantageous to select the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention partially from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicones. The proportion of cyclic and / or linear silicones is to be limited to a maximum of 25% by weight, preferably to a maximum of 15% by weight, based on the proportion of the total lipid phase. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows:<chemistry id="chem0005" num="0005"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0011.tif" /></chemistry>

Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon are saturated by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) .

Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxy units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:<chemistry id="chem0006" num="0006"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0012.tif" /></chemistry> wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which here are generalized by the radicals R₁ - R₄ (means that the number of different residues is not necessarily limited to up to 4). m can assume values ​​from 2 to 200,000.

The linear silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes; the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are distinguished by the following structural formula<chemistry id="chem0007" num="0007"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0013.tif" /></chemistry> are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights. Dimethicones of different chain lengths and phenyltrimethicones are particularly advantageous linear silicone oils for the purposes of the present invention.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which, for. B. are available under the trade names ABIL 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which are also called Cyclomethicone according to INCI, amino-modified silicones (INCI: Amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g. B. Polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and Dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), which are available as different types of Abil-Wax.

The silicone oils listed below are also particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention:<tables id="tabl0007" num="0007"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0014.tif" /></tables>

Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows<chemistry id="chem0008" num="0008"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0015.tif" /></chemistry> wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which here are generalized by the radicals R₁ - R₄ are shown (the number of different residues is not necessarily limited to up to 4). n can take values ​​from 3/2 to 20. Broken values ​​for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Particularly advantageous cyclic silicone oils for the purposes of the present invention are cyclomethicones, in particular cyclomethicones D5 and / or cyclomethicones D6, in particular also a mixture of D4, D5 and D6.

Advantageous silicone oils or silicone waxes in the sense of the present invention are cyclic and / or linear silicone oils and silicone waxes. For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to choose the ratio of lipids to silicone oils approximately as 1: 1 (generally x: y).

Phenyltrimethicone is advantageously chosen as the silicone oil. Other silicone oils, for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone, can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also advantageous.

However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils of a similar constitution to the compounds described above, the organic side chains of which are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol and the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate.

The proportion of lipids according to the invention comprises far more than 30% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation. The phase ratio between the oil and water phase is a decisive factor in the area of ​​water-in-oil emulsions in order to adjust the viscosity range of the preparations listed here: the smaller the proportion of the inner disperse water phase (and accordingly the greater the proportion of external continuous Lipid phase), the lower viscosity ranges can be set due to the reduced interaction of the inner disperse water phase. Due to the large distances between the water droplets, no gel structure and therefore no viscosity can be built up without the use of oil thickeners or waxes. Traditional systems quickly become unstable due to this property (ie within a day or week, especially at high storage temperatures of 40 ° C and more). The phase ratio between oil and water phase is preferably in the range from 30 to 70 to 60 to 40, in particular 35:65 to 50:50, particularly preferably 40:60. Here the emulsifier and possibly other lipophilic compounds do not count towards the oil phase.

According to the invention, this problem of thin liquid, sprayability and simultaneous stability is solved by the preparation according to the invention. Accordingly, preparations in the sense of the present invention are particularly suitable to serve as the basis for product forms with a variety of uses.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore low C-number alcohols, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for example Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.

Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM ​​hydantoin [for example Glydant®]), iodopropyl butyl carbamate (for example under the trade names Koncyl-L, Koncyl-S and Konkaben LMB), parabens, phenoxyethanol, Ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. Usually, the preservation system according to the invention advantageously also includes preservation aids, such as, for example, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.

It can also contain moisturizers or so-called moisturizers. Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property that, after application or distribution on the skin surface, the release of moisture from the horny layer (also transepidermal<u>water</u> loss (called TEWL)) and / or to positively influence the hydration of the horny layer.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, induce or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or Sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effect (such as, for example, boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).

The compositions according to the invention may also optionally contain additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, moisturizing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, dyes, pigments, which have a coloring effect have thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, Contain waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Regulation or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g. Fe₂O₃, Fe₃O₄, FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below. The Color Index Numbers (CIN) are that<i>Rowe Color Index,</i> 3. <i>Edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971</i> taken.

Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. The types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:

The dyes and pigments can be present either individually or in a mixture and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses. The total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt.% To 30 wt.%, Preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt.%, In particular from 1.0 to 10 wt.%, Each based on the total weight of the preparations.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), Aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, y-linoleyl, cholesteryl - and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. Buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine ​​sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to µmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, Lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg - ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. Vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as konyferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophen derivatives and their derivatives, har , Zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO₄) Selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

For the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

An astonishing property of the preparations according to the invention is that they are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation .

According to the invention, the active ingredients (one or more compounds) can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:

Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. hydrocortisone-17-valerate, vitamins of the B and D series, vitamin B very cheap₁, the vitamin B₁₂ the vitamin D.₁, but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often also called vitamin F), especially gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other plant-based products and animal origin, e.g. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to select the active ingredients from the group of lipid-replenishing substances, for example Purcellin oil, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.

The active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular if the preparations according to the invention are intended to treat and prevent the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and to treat and prevent the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin .

The preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

The active ingredient (s) are furthermore advantageously selected from the group comprising catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile esters of catechins, such as, for example, the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, in particular of the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). Their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or Catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids).

Catechins are a group of compounds which are to be understood as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechins" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman -3,5,7-triol). Epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is also an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present invention.

Plant extracts containing catechins, in particular extracts of green tea, such as. B. extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec., Especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis, and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.

Preferred active substances are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) -Epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Flavone and its derivatives (often also collectively called "flavones") are also advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):<chemistry id="chem0009" num="0009"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0016.tif" /></chemistry>

Some of the more important flavones, which can also preferably be used in preparations according to the invention, are listed in the table below: <tables id="tabl0008" num="0008"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="9" colsep="1" rowsep="1"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="17.50mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="17.50mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="17.50mm" /><colspec colnum="4" colname="col4" colwidth="17.50mm" /><colspec colnum="5" colname="col5" colwidth="17.50mm" /><colspec colnum="6" colname="col6" colwidth="17.50mm" /><colspec colnum="7" colname="col7" colwidth="17.50mm" /><colspec colnum="8" colname="col8" colwidth="17.50mm" /><colspec colnum="9" colname="col9" colwidth="17.50mm" /><thead valign="top"><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" rowsep="0" /><entry namest="col2" nameend="col9" align="center">OH substitution positions</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" /><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">3</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">5</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">7</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">8</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="center">2'</entry><entry namest="col7" nameend="col7" align="center">3'</entry><entry namest="col8" nameend="col8" align="center">4'</entry><entry namest="col9" nameend="col9" align="center">5'</entry></row></thead><tbody valign="top"><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Flavon</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col7" nameend="col7" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col8" nameend="col8" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col9" nameend="col9" align="center">-</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Flavonol</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col7" nameend="col7" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col8" nameend="col8" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col9" nameend="col9" align="center">-</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Chrysin</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col7" nameend="col7" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col8" nameend="col8" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col9" nameend="col9" align="center">-</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Galangin</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col7" nameend="col7" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col8" nameend="col8" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col9" nameend="col9" align="center">-</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Apigenin</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col7" nameend="col7" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col8" nameend="col8" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col9" nameend="col9" align="center">-</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Fisetin</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col7" nameend="col7" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col8" nameend="col8" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col9" nameend="col9" align="center">-</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Luteolin</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col7" nameend="col7" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col8" nameend="col8" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col9" nameend="col9" align="center">-</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Fighter oil</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col7" nameend="col7" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col8" nameend="col8" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col9" nameend="col9" align="center">-</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Quercetin</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col7" nameend="col7" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col8" nameend="col8" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col9" nameend="col9" align="center">-</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Morin</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col7" nameend="col7" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col8" nameend="col8" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col9" nameend="col9" align="center">-</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Robinetin</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col7" nameend="col7" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col8" nameend="col8" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col9" nameend="col9" align="center">+</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Gossypetin</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col7" nameend="col7" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col8" nameend="col8" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col9" nameend="col9" align="center">-</entry></row><row rowsep="1"><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Myricetin</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="center">-</entry><entry namest="col7" nameend="col7" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col8" nameend="col8" align="center">+</entry><entry namest="col9" nameend="col9" align="center">+</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula<chemistry id="chem0010" num="0010"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0017.tif" /></chemistry> where Z₁ to Z₇ are independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and where Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

According to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula<chemistry id="chem0011" num="0011"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0018.tif" /></chemistry> where Z₁ to Z₆ are independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and where Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula<chemistry id="chem0012" num="0012"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0019.tif" /></chemistry> where Gly₁, Gly₂ and Gly₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly₂ or Gly₃ can also represent saturations by hydrogen atoms individually or together.

Gly are preferred₁, Gly₂ and Gly₃ independently selected from the group of hexosyl residues, in particular rhamnosyl residues and glucosyl residues. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

Z₁ to Z₅ independently selected from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure<chemistry id="chem0013" num="0013"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0020.tif" /></chemistry> The flavone glycosides according to the invention from the group which are represented by the following structure are particularly advantageous:<chemistry id="chem0014" num="0014"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0021.tif" /></chemistry> where Gly₁, Gly₂ and Gly₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly₂ or Gly₃ can also represent saturations by hydrogen atoms individually or together.

Gly are preferred₁, Gly₂ and Gly₃ independently selected from the group of hexosyl residues, in particular rhamnosyl residues and glucosyl residues. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to choose the flavone glycosides from the group α-glucosyl rutin, α-glucosyl myrcetin, α-glucosyl isoquercitrin, α-glucosyl iso quercetin and α-glucosyl quercitrin.

According to the invention, α-glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.

Naringin (aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside) are also advantageous according to the invention. Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinosid, quercetin-3-rutinosid, sophorin, birutan, rutabion, taurutin, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4 ', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavon-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3', 4 ' , 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), dihydrorobinetin (3,3 ', 4th ', 5', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), Eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside), flavanomarein (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4 ', 5,7-Pentahydroxyflavanon-3- (β-D-glucopyranoside).

It is also advantageous to choose the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula<chemistry id="chem0015" num="0015"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0022.tif" /></chemistry> and represent the most widespread and thus the best studied bioquinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are called as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or according to the number of C atoms U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. designated. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. Q10 predominates in most mammals, including humans.

Coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:<chemistry id="chem0016" num="0016"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0023.tif" /></chemistry>

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula<chemistry id="chem0017" num="0017"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0024.tif" /></chemistry> on. Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are named accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances in the sense of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:<chemistry id="chem0018" num="0018"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0025.tif" /></chemistry>

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols.

Another advantageous active ingredient is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine]. Also acyl-carnitine, which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula<chemistry id="chem0019" num="0019"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0026.tif" /></chemistry> where R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention. Propionylcarnitine and in particular acetylcarnitine are preferred. Both entantiomers (D and L form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It can also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.

Other advantageous active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K, biotin and flavorings.

The list of the active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned which can be used in the preparations according to the invention is of course not intended to be limiting. The active ingredients can be used individually or in any combination with one another.

In addition, selected recipes according to the invention are suitable, which e.g. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur during skin aging. They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

Skin aging is e.g. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. B. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis"<ul id="ul0001" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>a) dryness, roughness and formation of (dryness) wrinkles,</li><li>b) itching and</li><li>c) Reduced regreasing by sebum glands (e.g. after washing). Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical noxae, can be cumulatively effective and e.g. B. accelerate or complement the endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, it occurs in particular due to exogenous factors such. B. the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage with chronological aging:</li><li>d) visible vasodilation (telangiectasias, cuperosis);</li><li>e) flaccidity and wrinkling;</li><li>f) local hyper, hypo and incorrect pigmentations (e.g. age spots) and</li><li>g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking).</li></ul>

In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates in particular to products for the care of the naturally aged skin and for the treatment of the consequential damage caused by light aging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

The cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, further for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.

Due to the thin liquid in the claimed viscosity range and the special product properties, application to the skin in particular can be carried out by spraying on the preparations. The spraying can be carried out, for example, by means of simple pump atomizers, hand atomizer pumps with one-finger or "trigger actuation", by aerosol pumps in which the filling material is discharged by a propellant, by dispenser pumps or squeeze bottles or by so-called. Bag-in-can systems take place. The preparations according to the invention can be applied with the standard pumps without any problems and produce a fine and uniform spray pattern.

Another advantageous embodiment of the present invention consists in sun protection products. It is particularly advantageous to add oil-soluble and / or water-soluble UV filters and / or inorganic pigments that absorb or reflect UV radiation.

It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not to protect against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. So z. B. usually incorporated into day creams or makeup products UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.

Accordingly, the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO₂), Zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe₂O₃), Zirconium (ZrO₂), Silicon (SiO₂), Manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al₂O₃), Cers (e.g. Ce₂O₃), Mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides, as well as the sulfate of barium (BaSO₄).

The titanium dioxide pigments can be present both in the rutile and anatase crystal modification and, for the purposes of the present invention, can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), with, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character being formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer by methods known per se. For the purposes of the present invention, the various surface coatings can also contain water.

Coated and uncoated titanium dioxides described can also be used in the sense of the present invention in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions. The titanium dioxides according to the invention are distinguished by a primary particle size between 10 nm to 150 nm. <tables id="tabl0009" num="0009"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="4" colsep="1" rowsep="1"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="39.37mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="39.37mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="39.37mm" /><colspec colnum="4" colname="col4" colwidth="39.37mm" /><thead valign="top"><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left"><b>Trade name</b></entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left"><b>Coating</b></entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left"><b>additional components of the predispersion</b></entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="left"><b>Manufacturer</b></entry></row></thead><tbody valign="top"><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">MT-100TV</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">Aluminum hydroxide stearic acid</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">-</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="left">Tayca Corporation</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">MT-100Z</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">Aluminum hydroxide stearic acid</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">-</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="left">Tayca Corporation</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">MT-100F</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">Stearic acid iron oxide</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">-</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="left">Tayca Corporation</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">MT-500SAS</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">Alumina, silica silicone</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">-</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="left">Tayca Corporation</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">MT-100AQ</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">Silica aluminum hydroxide alginic acid</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">-</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="left">Tayca Corporation</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Eusolex T-2000</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">Alumina Simethicone</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">-</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="left">Merck KgaA</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Eosolex TS</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">Alumina, stearic acid</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">-</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="left">Merck KgaA</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Titanium dioxide P25</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">None</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">-</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="left">Degussa</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Titanium dioxide T805 (Uvinul TiO₂)</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">Octyltrimethylsilane</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">-</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="left">Degussa</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">UV Titan X170</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">Alumina Dimethicone</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">-</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="left">Kemira</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">UV-Titan X161</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">Alumina, silica stearic acid</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">-</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="left">Kemira</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Tioveil AQ 10PG</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">Alumina silica</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">Water propylene glycol</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="left">Solaveil Uniquema</entry></row><row rowsep="1"><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Mirasun TiW 60</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">Alumina silica</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">water</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="left">Rhone-Poulenc</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>

For the purposes of the present invention, particularly preferred titanium dioxides are the MT-100 Z and MT-100 TV from Tayca Corporation, Eusolex T-2000 and Eusolex TS from Merck and the titanium dioxide T 805 from Degussa.

For the purposes of the present invention, zinc oxides can also be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are distinguished by a primary particle size of &lt;300 nm and are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:<tables id="tabl0010" num="0010"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="3" colsep="1" rowsep="1"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="52.50mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="52.50mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="52.50mm" /><thead valign="top"><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left"><b>Trade name</b></entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left"><b>Coating</b></entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left"><b>Manufacturer</b></entry></row></thead><tbody valign="top"><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Z-Cote HP1</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">2% dimethicone</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">BASF</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Z-Cote</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">/</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">BASF</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">ZnO NDM</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">5% dimethicone</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">MR</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">MZ 707M</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">7% dimethicone</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">M. Tayca Corp.</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Nanox 500</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">/</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">Elementis</entry></row><row rowsep="1"><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">ZnO neutral</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left">/</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left">MR</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>

Z-Cote HP1 from BASF and zinc oxide NDM from Haarmann &amp; Reimer are particularly preferred zinc oxides for the purposes of the invention.

The total amount of one or more inorganic pigments in the finished cosmetic preparation is advantageously selected from the range 0.1% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably 0.5% by weight to 18% by weight.

An advantageous organic pigment for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI : Bisoctyltriazole], which is characterized by the chemical structural formula<chemistry id="chem0020" num="0020"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0027.tif" /></chemistry> and is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol® 1789 brand and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.

Other advantageous UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid<chemistry id="chem0021" num="0021"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0028.tif" /></chemistry> and their salts, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt<chemistry id="chem0022" num="0022"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0029.tif" /></chemistry> with the INCI name bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, from Haarmann &amp; Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP.

Also advantageous are the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt) , which is also called benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:<chemistry id="chem0023" num="0023"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0030.tif" /></chemistry> Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are hydroxybenzophenones, which are characterized by the following structural formula:<chemistry id="chem0024" num="0024"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0031.tif" /></chemistry> wherein<ul id="ul0002" list-style="bullet" compact="compact"><li>R¹ and R² independently of one another hydrogen, C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl, C₃-C₁₀Cycloalkyl or C₃-C₁₀-Cycloalkenyl mean, where the substituents R¹ and R² together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached can form a 5- or 6-ring and</li><li>R³ a C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl means rest.</li></ul>

A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the sense of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is characterized by the following structure:<chemistry id="chem0025" num="0025"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0032.tif" /></chemistry> and is available under the trade name Uvinul A Plus from BASF.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, ie filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives with the following structure:<chemistry id="chem0026" num="0026"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0033.tif" /></chemistry> where R¹, R² and R³ are independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a single hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred are 2,4-bis - ([4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention, which are characterized by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain several UV-A and / or broadband filters, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [for example the 2,2'- Methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol)], phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3 , 3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2- hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, in each case individually or in any combination with one another.

Also other UV filter substances, which the structural motif<chemistry id="chem0027" num="0027"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0034.tif" /></chemistry> are advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula<chemistry id="chem0028" num="0028"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0035.tif" /></chemistry> is reproduced, whereby<dl id="dl0002" compact="compact"><dt>R</dt><dd>a branched or unbranched C₁-C₁₈-Alkyl radical, a C₅-C₁₂Cycloalkylrest, optionally substituted with one or more C₁-C₄Alkyl groups,</dd><dt>X</dt><dd>represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,</dd><dt>R₁</dt><dd>a branched or unbranched C₁-C₁₈-Alkyl radical, a C₅-C₁₂Cycloalkylrest, optionally substituted with one or more C₁-C₄- Alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula<chemistry id="chem0029" num="0029"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0036.tif" /></chemistry> means in which A is a branched or unbranched C₁-C₁₈-Alkyl radical, a C₅-C₁₂-Cycloalkyl- or aryl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C.₁-C₄- alkyl groups, R₃  represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10,</dd><dt>R₂</dt><dd>a branched or unbranched C₁-C₁₈-Alkyl radical, a C₅-C₁₂Cycloalkylrest, optionally substituted with one or more C₁-C₄- Al represents alkyl groups when X represents the NH group, and a branched or unbranched C₁-C₁₈-Alkyl radical, a C₅-C₁₂Cycloalkylrest, optionally substituted with one or more C₁-C₄- Alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula<chemistry id="chem0030" num="0030"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0037.tif" /></chemistry> means in which A is a branched or unbranched C₁-C₁₈-Alkyl radical, a C₅-C₁₂-Cycloalkyl- or aryl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C.₁-C₄- alkyl groups, R₃  represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10, when X represents an oxygen atom.</dd></dl>

A particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula<chemistry id="chem0031" num="0031"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0038.tif" /></chemistry> is reproduced, which is also referred to below as dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.

A symmetrically substituted s-triazine which is 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2- ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4,6-tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-heoylooy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl triazone), which is derived from the BASF Aktiengesellschaft is sold under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

European laid-open specification 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are to be used preferably, the chemical structure of which is represented by the generic formula<chemistry id="chem0032" num="0032"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0039.tif" /></chemistry> is reproduced, where R₁, R₂ and A₁ represent various organic residues.

Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-meth-oxyethyl-carboxyl) - phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1 , 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 "-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and the 2,4-bis- { [4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2 "-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine. An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is characterized by the chemical structural formula<chemistry id="chem0033" num="0033"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0040.tif" /></chemistry> and is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2Hbenzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(tri methylsilyl ) oxy] d i-siloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula<chemistry id="chem0034" num="0034"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0041.tif" /></chemistry> is marked.

The UV-B and / or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:<ul id="ul0003" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>■ 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;</li><li>■ 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;</li><li>2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;</li><li>■ esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;</li><li>■ esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;</li><li>■ Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone</li><li>■ as well as UV filters bound to polymers.</li></ul>

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:<ul id="ul0004" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>■ salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;</li><li>■ sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.</li></ul>

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylate), 4-isopropyl benzyl salicylate and esters of preferably z 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) -phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer (INCI: Dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonat) which is available for example under the trade name Parsol® SLX from Hoffmann La Roche.

A further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul® N 539 and is characterized by the following structure:<chemistry id="chem0035" num="0035"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0042.tif" /></chemistry>

It can also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.

The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting

Both high levels of UVA and UVB filters are possible in the preparation according to the invention. Particularly noteworthy are the UV filters ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232), ethylhexyl triazone (Uvinul T150), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789).

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations places that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreens for the hair or skin. In all respects, the preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations which show very good sensory and cosmetic properties, such as, for example, the spreadability on the skin or the ability to be absorbed into the skin. They are also characterized by very good light protection effectiveness, extremely high UV-A protection and excellent skin tolerance combined with excellent skin care data. The advantage of the present invention is that, despite a high oil phase content of more than 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, no further emulsifier or coemulsifier is necessary. In addition, and this is a further finding according to the invention, high proportions of light protection filters, in particular UVA and / or UVB filters, can be incorporated into the preparation according to the invention without the stability or viscosity experiencing losses. Depending on the sun protection factor, a very high proportion of light protection filters means between 15 and 25 percent by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

In addition, there is advantageously a very high lipid content of more than 35% by weight. A preparation has therefore proven to be particularly preferred which contains 17-23% by weight, preferably 20% by weight, light protection filter, 35-45% by weight, preferably 40% by weight, lipids and 2-7% by weight, preferably 5 % By weight, contains emulsifier, in each case based on the total mass of the preparation.

It may also be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention, for example in order to improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting). Both water-soluble or dispersible and fat-soluble film formers are suitable, in each case individually or in combination with one another.

Advantageous water-soluble or dispersible film formers are e.g. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. the Avalure® types from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVP / VA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF) etc .

Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)<chemistry id="chem0036" num="0036"><img file="EP1555017A1_D0043.tif" /></chemistry>

Particularly preferred are copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as Tricontayl PVP and the like.

According to the invention, these emulsions can also be used as cleaning agents as cosmetic and dermatological preparations.

Cosmetic preparations, which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or solid form. In addition to active ingredient combinations according to the invention, they preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, if desired one or more electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used for this. The surface-active substance can be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration of between 1 and 94% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Another advantageous embodiment of the present invention consists in insect repellants.

Advantageous active ingredients for repellents are low-melting or liquid amides, alcohols, esters and ethers with melting points above 150 ° C, which evaporate only slowly at room temperature.

The following active ingredients, individually or in combination with one another or with others, have proven to be particularly advantageous: ethyl 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionate (trade name: Insect Repellent 3535 available from Merck), N, N -Diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (DEET), dimethyl phthalate, ethylhexanediol, caprylic acid diethylamide and natural vegetable oils such as citronella oil, eucalyptus oil, lavender oil, clove oil.

Another advantageous embodiment of the present invention is self-tanning.

Advantageous active ingredients for self-tanners are natural or synthetic ketols or aldols. Dihydroxyacetone (DHA), glycerol aldehyde, erythrulose, alloxan, hydroxymethylglyoxal, γ-dialdehyde, 6-aldo-D-fructose, ninhydrin and meso-tartaric acid dialdehyde have proven to be advantageous.

Mixtures of the above-mentioned active ingredients with one another or with mucondialdehyde and / or naphthoquinones, such as 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (juglone) and 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, have proven to be particularly advantageous Compounds, in particular 9-retinal alkanolamine Schiff base, as described in DE 10212865, which hereby belongs to the disclosure content of the present invention.

Sample recipes

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. The numerical values ​​in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.<tables id="tabl0011" num="0011"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="6" colsep="1" rowsep="1"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="26.25mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="26.25mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="26.25mm" /><colspec colnum="4" colname="col4" colwidth="26.25mm" /><colspec colnum="5" colname="col5" colwidth="26.25mm" /><colspec colnum="6" colname="col6" colwidth="26.25mm" /><thead valign="top"><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">example</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">1</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">2</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">3</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">4</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">5</entry></row></thead><tbody valign="top"><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Methyl paraben</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">0,3</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">0,3</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">0,3</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Propyl paraben</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">0,15</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">0,15</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">0,15</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Aqua</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">Ad 100</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">Ad 100</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">Ad 100</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">Ad 100</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">Ad 100</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Magnesium sulfates</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">0,5</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Citric acid</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">0,086</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">0,086</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">0</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Glycerin</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">10</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">5</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">5</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">15</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">3</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Tocopheryl Acetate</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">0,5</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Trisodium EDTA</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">1</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">1</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">1</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">1</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">1</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate + BHT</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">9</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">9</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">9</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">9</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">9</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">C12-15 alkyl benzoates</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">9,5</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">9,5</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">9,5</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">9,5</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">9,5</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">2</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">1</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">1</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">1</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">4</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">4</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">4</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Sodium citrate</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">0,174</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">0,174</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">0</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Sodium hydroxide</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">1</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">1</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">1</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Alcohol Denat.</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">3</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">0</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Glycine</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">0,5</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Ethylhexyl triazone</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">3</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">3</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">3</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">3</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">3</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Cl 77891 + trimethoxycaprylyl silanes</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">2</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">2</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">2</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">2</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">2</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Ethylhexylglycerol</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">0,5</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">5</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">5</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">3</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">6</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">7</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">2</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">2</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">2</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">2</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">2</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Cetyl Dimethicone</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">0,5</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">0,5</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">9,5</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">9,5</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">9,5</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">9,5</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">9,5</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Cocoglycerides</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">10</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">5</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">10</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">15</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">10</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Potassium sorbate</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">0,067</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">0,067</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">0</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">0</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Perfume</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">0,2</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">0,2</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">0,2</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">0,2</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">0,2</entry></row><row rowsep="1"><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">Dicaprylyl carbonates</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="right">10</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="right">15</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="right">10</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="right">15</entry><entry namest="col6" nameend="col6" align="right">10</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>