Non-transfer cosmetic composition comprising a sequenced polymer
Abstract
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66 claims: 26 independent, 40 dependent
- 1Translation of claims of equivalent WO 2004028491 A2 1. A cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable organic liquid medium and at least one styrene-free film-forming linear ethylenic polymer, said polymer being such that, when it is present in a sufficient quantity in the composition, the latter is suitable for forming a deposit with a transfer less than or equal to 35%.
- 2A composition for making up the lips comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable organic liquid medium and at least one non-elastomeric linear film-forming ethylenic polymer, said polymer being such that, when it is present in a sufficient quantity in the composition, the latter is capable of forming a. deposit with a transfer less than or equal to 35%.
- 4Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the block polymer is not soluble with an active ingredient content of at least 1% by weight in water or in a mixture of water and monoalcohols linear or branched lowerers having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, without modification of pH, at room temperature (25 ° C.).
- 5Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the block polymer comprises at least one first block and at least one second block having different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second blocks being interconnected. by an intermediate sequence comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block.
- 6Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the first and second blocks are such that the difference between the glass transition temperatures (Tg) of the first and second blocks is greater than 10 ° C., preferably greater than 20 ° C. , preferably above 30 ° C, and more preferably above 40 ° C.
- 12Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the proportion of the first block ranges from 20 to 90% by weight of the polymer, more preferably from 30 to 80% and more preferably from 50 to 70%.
- 15Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the proportion of the first block having a Tg of between 20 and 40 ° C ranges from 10 to 85% by weight of the polymer, more preferably from 30 to 80% and even more preferably from 50 to 70%.
- 21Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the sequence having a Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C is a copolymer derived from monomers whose homopolymer has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C.
- 22Composition according to either of Claims 20 and 21, characterized in that the monomers whose homopolymer has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C are chosen from the following monomers:methacrylates of formula CH 2 = C (CH 3 Wherein R 1 represents a linear or branched, unsubstituted alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl group or R represents a C-cycloalkyl group;4 in Cι 2 - acrylates of formula CH 2 = CH-COOR 2 in which R 2 represents a C-cycloalkyl group 4 at C 1 2 such as isobornyl acrylate or a tertiary butyl group, - (meth) acrylamides of formula: where R 7 and Rs, which are identical or different, each represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as n-butyl, t-butyl, isopropyl, isohexyl, isooctyl or isononyl;or R 7 represents H and R 8 represents a 1,1-dimethyl-3-oxobutyl group, and R 'denotes H or methyl. - and their mixtures.
- 26Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the monomers whose homopolymer has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C are chosen from the following monomers:- acrylates of formula CH 2 = CHCOOR 3 , R 3 representing a C1 to Cι unsubstituted alkyl group 2 , linear or branched, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, in which is (are) optionally intercalated (s) one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, S;methacrylates of formula CH 2 = C (CH 3 ) COOR 4 , R 4 representing an unsubstituted C-alkyl group 6 at C 2 linear or branched, wherein is (are) optionally intercalated (s) one or more heteroatoms selected from 0, N and S;vinyl esters of formula R 5 -CO-O-CH = CH 2 where R 5 is a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group 12 linear or branched;vinyl ethers and C-alkyl 4 in Cι 2 such as methyl vinyl ether and vinyl ethyl ether;N-C alkyl 4 at C 12 acrylamides, such as N-octylacrylamide, and mixtures thereof.
- 34Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional monomer is chosen from hydrophilic monomers, ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising one or more silicon atoms and mixtures thereof.
- 41Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the block polymer has a weight average mass (Mw) of less than or equal to 300,000, preferably ranging from 35,000 to 200,000, and better ranging from 45,000 to 150,000.
- 42Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sequence polymer having a mass average mass (Mn) is less than or equal to 70,000, preferably ranging from 10,000 to 60,000, and better ranging from 12,000 to 50,000.
- 44Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the block polymer is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0, 5% to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 40% by weight.
- 45Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a volatile oil.
- 46Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a volatile oil chosen from octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane.
- 48Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a non-volatile oil.
- 49Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and non-volatile silicone oils.
- 51Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one solid fatty substance at ambient temperature chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and mixtures thereof.
- 52Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains from 0.1 to 50% by weight of waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 1 to 30% by weight.
- 53Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a dyestuff.
- 54Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic ingredient chosen from the additional film-forming polymers, vitamins, thickeners, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, perfumes and agents. alkalizing or acidifying agents, preservatives, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, or mixtures thereof.
- 55Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a paste or a stick.
- 56Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in anhydrous form.
- 57Cosmetic assembly comprising:a) a container defining at least one compartment, said container being closed by a closure element;and b) a composition disposed within said compartment, the composition being in accordance with any one of the preceding claims.
- 66Use of a film-forming linear ethylenic polymer free of styrene and / or non-elastomer, in a cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable organic liquid medium, said polymer being such, when it is present in sufficient quantity in the composition, the latter is capable of forming a deposit having a transfer less than or equal to 35%, to get a deposit, including makeup, no transfer on keratin materials, especially on the skin or lips.
Independent claims26
278 paragraphs, as filed
Translation of description of equivalent WO 2004028491 A2
non-transfer cosmetic composition comprising a polymer block
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a polymer particular sequence to be applied to human keratin materials such as skin, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, hair. The composition is more particularly intended to be applied on the skin or lips.
The composition according to the invention may be a makeup composition or a care composition for keratin materials, especially the skin and lips, and preferably a makeup composition.
The makeup composition may be a lip makeup product (lipstick), a foundation, an eyeshadow, a blusher, a concealer product, an eyeliner, a body makeup product, mascara, a nail varnish, a hair makeup product.
The care composition can be a skin care product of the body and face, including a solar product, a skin coloring product (such as a self-tanning). The composition may also be a hair product, especially for holding the hairstyle or shaping the hair.
lipstick compositions and foundation are commonly used to give an aesthetic color to the lips or skin, particularly the face. These makeup products generally contain fatty phases such as waxes and oils, pigments and / or fillers and optionally additives such as cosmetic or dermatological active agents.
These compositions, when applied to the skin, exhibit the disadvantage of transferring, that is to say to be deposited at least partly, leaving traces on certain substrates with which they may be contacted including a glass, cup, a cigarette, clothing or skin. This results in mediocre persistence of the applied film, requiring regularly renew the application of the primer composition of foundation or lipstick. Moreover, the appearance of these unacceptable traces, in particular on shirt collars, can dissuade some women from using this type of makeup.
therefore sought makeup compositions for the lips and skin so-called "transfer" which have the advantage of forming a deposit that is not deposited, at least partly, on the supports with which they come into contact (glass , clothing, cigarette tissue).
To limit the transfer of cosmetic compositions, it is known to use volatile oils, especially at higher levels to 40% by weight. These volatile oils present in large amount render the makeup product, especially lipstick, uncomfortable for the user: the makeup deposit gives a sensation of dryness and tightness.
It is also known products in the form of two separate compositions to be applied one over the other on the lips to obtain a transfer-free makeup. For example, the product LIP finity MAX FACTOR is a bi-layer product, the base composition (so-called base coat) contains a silicone resin and volatile oil, and the surface composition (so-called top coat) contains an ester of sucrose (as described in WO 97/17057) to improve the comfort of the non-transfer makeup product. However, the application of two compositions for makeup may be prohibitive for some users.
The present invention aims to provide a new formulation of a cosmetic way, including makeup, obtaining a deposit having good properties of non-transfer, including without using a high rate of volatile oils, said deposit can be obtained with this single composition. The invention also aims to provide a cosmetic, particularly makeup, to obtain a deposit on the skin or lips comfortable.
The inventors have discovered that it is possible to obtain such a composition by using a particular polymer sequence as described below. The composition allows to obtain a deposit, especially a make-up keratin materials, in particular of the skin or the lips, having good transfer-resistance properties. In addition, the deposit obtained on the skin or lips causes no sensation of dryness or tautness to the user: the deposit is comfortable.
More specifically, the present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable organic liquid medium and at least one ethylenic polymer forming linear sequenced as described below, the composition being such as defined below.
Advantageously, according to a first embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the polymer film-forming linear ethylenic block is styrene-free and is such that when present in sufficient amount in the composition, the latter is capable of forming a deposit having a lower transfer or equal to 35%.
Advantageously, according to a second embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the polymer film-forming linear ethylenic block is non-elastomeric and is such that when present in sufficient amount in the composition, this composition is capable of forming a deposit having a transfer less than or equal to 35%.
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is capable of forming a deposit that has a transfer of less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 30%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 20 %, Preferably less than or equal to 15%, preferably less than or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 5%.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up or non-therapeutically caring for keratin materials, especially the skin or lips, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular on the skin or lips, of a composition as defined above.
The invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above to obtain a deposit not transfer, in particular a makeup, on keratinous substances, in particular on the skin or lips.
The invention also relates to the use of a block polymer as defined above, in a cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable organic liquid medium, for obtaining a deposit, especially a make-up, no transfer to the keratin materials, in particular on the skin or lips.
The transfer of the deposit obtained with the composition according to the invention is determined according to the protocol described below.
Preheating a support (rectangle of 40 mm X 70 mm and thickness 3 mm) of polyethylene adhesive on one side with a foam density of 33 kg / m3 (sold under the name RE40X70EP3 from the company Joint Technique Lyonnais Ind) on a hot plate maintained at a temperature of 40 ° C so that the support surface is maintained at a temperature of 33 ° C ± 1 ° C.
While leaving the support on the hotplate, the composition is applied over the entire non-adhesive surface of the support by spreading it using a brush to obtain a deposit of the composition of about 15 microns and allowed to dry during 30 minutes. After drying, the carrier is bonded via its adhesive face onto an anvil of diameter 20 mm and provided with a screw thread. The whole depot carrier is then cut using a hollow punch with a diameter of 18 mm. The anvil is then screwed onto a press (STAND MANUAL Imada SV-2 from the company Someco) equipped with a dynamometer (Imada DPS-20 from the company Someco).
A white photocopier paper 80g / m2 is placed on the base of the press and the assembly is pressed support / deposit on the paper at a pressure of 2.5 kg for 30 seconds. After removing the support / deposit assembly, some of the deposit transferred onto the paper. then measuring the color of the deposit transferred onto the paper using a Minolta CR300, color characterized by the colorimetric parameters L<sup>*</sup>, A *, b *. colorimetric parameters are determined L<sup>*</sup>rj, Q a *, b * o of the color of the plain paper used.
It then determines the color difference ΔE1 between the color of the deposit transferred relative to the color of the plain paper by the following equation.
<sub>=</sub> V (* -L<sub>0</sub>*) 2 + (a * - a<sub>0</sub>*) 2 + (b * - b<sub>0</sub>*)<sup>2</sup>
ΔE1
Furthermore, preparing a total transfer reference by applying the composition directly onto a paper identical to the one used previously, at room temperature (25 ° C), by spreading the composition using a brush and to obtain a depositing the composition of about 15 .mu.m and dried for 30 minutes at room temperature (25 ° C). After drying, the colorimetric parameters are directly measured L * ', a *', b * 'of the color of the deposit placed on the paper, corresponding to the total transfer reference color. Determining the colorimetric parameters L * 'n, a * o, b * o of the color of the plain paper used.
It then determines the color difference ΔE2 between total transfer reference color with respect to the color of the plain paper by the following equation. <sub>=</sub> V (L * '- L<sub>0</sub>* ') 2 + (a *' - has<sub>0</sub>* ')<sup>2</sup> + (B * '- b<sub>0</sub>* ')<sup>2</sup>
ΔE2
The transfer of the composition, expressed as a percentage, is the ratio:
100 X ΔE1 / ΔE2
The measurement is performed on 4 supports in succession and the transfer value is the average of the 4 measurements obtained with the 4 supports.
By organic liquid means any non-aqueous liquid product at room temperature (25 ° C).
Cosmetically acceptable organic liquid medium means a medium comprising at least one liquid organic compound at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (10 ^ Pa) compatible with keratin materials, especially the skin, the lips, such as oils or organic solvents commonly employed in cosmetic compositions.
The composition according to the invention may comprise a polymer ethylene sequence forming linear sequenced styrene-free.
"Polymer free of styrene" means a polymer comprising less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1% by weight, or does not contain, styrenic monomer such as styrene or styrene derivatives such as methylstyrene, chlorostyrene or chloromethylstyrene.
According to one embodiment, the block polymer of the composition according to the invention is derived from aliphatic ethylenic monomers. Aliphatic monomer means a monomer comprising no aromatic groups. The term "ethylenic polymer" means a polymer obtained by polymerizing monomers comprising an ethylenic unsaturation.
By "block polymer" means a polymer comprising at least two different blocks and preferably at least three distinct sequences.
The polymer is a polymer of linear structure. In contrast, a polymer non-linear structure is, for example, a polymer of branched structure, star, graft, or otherwise.
By polymer "film" means a polymer capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous film that adheres to a support, especially to keratin materials.
Preferably, the polymer used in the composition according to the invention comprises no silicon atoms in its skeleton. The term "skeleton" means the main chain of the polymer, as opposed to the pendent side chains.
Advantageously, the block polymer comprises at least one first block and at least one second block that have different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second blocks being linked together via an intermediate block comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first sequence and at least one constituent monomer of the second block.
By "at least one block" means one or more sequences.
It was noted that in the above and following the terms "first" and "second" blocks do not in any way condition the order of the said sequences (or blocks) in the polymer structure. Preferably, the first and second blocks of said block polymer are mutually incompatible with each other.
"Mutually incompatible blocks with each other" means that the mixture formed from the polymer corresponding to the first block and the polymer corresponding to the second block is not miscible in the organic liquid majority by weight of the liquid medium organic composition at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (10<sup>5</sup> Pa), for a content of the upper polymer blend or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture (polymers and solvent), it being understood that: i) the said polymers are present in the mixture in an amount such that the respective weight ratio ranges from 10/90 to 90/10, and ii) each of the polymers corresponding to the first and second blocks has an average molecular mass (weight or number) equal to that of the block polymer +/- 15% .
In the case where the organic liquid medium comprises a mixture of organic liquids, and in the event of two or more organic liquids present in identical mass proportions, the said polymer mixture is immiscible in at least one of them.
Of course, in the case where the organic liquid medium comprises a single organic liquid, the latter is the majority organic liquid.
Advantageously, the majority organic liquid of the composition is the organic solvent for polymerization of the block polymer or the majority of the organic solvent organic solvent mixtures polymerization of polymer block.
Preferably, the block polymer used for the composition according to the invention is not water soluble, i.e. the polymer is not soluble in water or in a mixture of water and linear lower monoalcohols branched having 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, without pH modification, at an active material content of at least 1% by weight at room temperature (25 ° C).
Preferably, the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention is not an elastomer.
"Non-elastomeric polymer" means a polymer which, when subjected to a stress intended to stretch it (for example by 30% relative to its initial length), does not return to a length substantially identical to its length initial when the stress.
More specifically, "non-elastomeric polymer" denotes a polymer with an instantaneous recovery R<sub>\</sub> <50% and a delayed recovery R<sub>2</sub> <70% after having undergone an elongation of 30%. Preferably, Ri is <30%, and R<sub>2 hours</sub> <50%.
More specifically, the non-elastomeric nature of the polymer is determined according to the following protocol:
a polymer film is prepared by pouring a solution of the polymer in a Teflon-coated mold and then drying for 7 days in a controlled environment at 23 ± 5 ° C and 50 ± 10% relative humidity.
We then obtain a film about 100 microns thick in which are cut rectangular specimens (for example a punch) of a width of 15 mm and a length of 80 mm.
It requires that sample to a tensile stress using a machine sold under the reference Zwick, under the same conditions of temperature and humidity for drying.
The specimens are pulled at a speed of 50 mm / min and the distance between the jaws is 50 mm, which corresponds to the initial length (l<sub>0</sub>) Of the test piece.
It determines the instantaneous recovery R as follows: - The specimen is stretched by 30% (εm<sub>ax</sub>), That is to say about 0.3 times its initial length (l<sub>0</sub>)
- The stress is released by applying a return speed equal to the tensile speed, ie 50 mm / min and measuring the residual of the specimen elongation percentage, after returning to zero constraint (ε {).
The% instantaneous recovery (Ri) is given by the following formula:
Ri = (εmaχ - εi) / ε<sub>my</sub>χ) x 100
To determine the delayed recovery, measuring the residual elongation of the specimen as a percentage (ε<sub>2rl</sub>).
The% delayed recovery (R<sub>2 hours</sub>) Is given by the following formula:
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Purely as a guide, a polymer according to one embodiment of the invention has an instantaneous recovery R i of 10% and a delayed recovery R<sub>2n</sub> 30%.
Advantageously, the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention has a polydispersity index I of greater than 2.
The intermediate sequence is a sequence comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block of the polymer used to "compatibilize" these sequences.
The polydispersity index I of the polymer is equal to the ratio of the average mass Mw to the number-average mass Mn. the average molecular weights are determined by weight (Mw) and number (Mn) by liquid chromatography by gel permeation (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector). The weight-average mass (Mw) of the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 300 000, it is for example from 35 000 to 200 000 and better still from 45 000 to 150 000.
The number-average mass (Mn) of the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 70 000, it is for example from 10 000 to 60 000 and better still from 12 000 to 50 000.
The polydispersity index of the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention is advantageously greater than 2, for example is greater than 2 and less than or equal to 9, preferably greater than or equal to 2.5, for example ranging from
2.5 to 8 and better still greater than or equal to 2.8, in particular 2.8 to 6.
Each block of the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention is derived from one type of monomer or from several different types of monomer. This means that each block may consist of a homopolymer or a copolymer; this copolymer constituting the block may be his turn random or alternating.
Advantageously, the intermediate block comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block of the polymer is a random polymer.
Preferably, the intermediate block is derived essentially from constituent monomers of the first sequence and second sequence.
By "substantially" means 85% at least, preferably at least 90%, more than 95% and even better still 100%.
Advantageously, the intermediate block has a glass transition temperature Tg between the glass transition temperatures of the first and second sequences. The glass transition temperatures indicated for the first and second blocks may be theoretical Tg values determined from the theoretical Tg values of the constituent monomers of each of the sequences, which can be found in a reference manual such as the Polymer Handbook, 3<sup>rd</sup> ed, 1989, John Wiley, according to the following relationship, known as Fox's law:
1 / Tg = Σ (tσι / Tg), i vs<sub>\</sub> being the mass fraction of the monomer i in the block under consideration and Tgi being the glass transition temperature of the homopolymer of the monomer i.
Unless otherwise indicated, the Tg values indicated for the first and second blocks in the present patent application are theoretical Tg.
Advantageously, the first and second polymer sequences are such that the difference between the glass transition temperatures of the first and second blocks is generally greater than 10 ° C, preferably greater than 20 ° C and better still greater than 30 ° C.
In particular, the first block may be chosen from: a) a sequence having greater than or equal to Tg 40 ° C, b) a block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C, c) a block with a Tg of between 20 and 40 ° C, and the second sequence chosen from a category a), b) or c) different from the first sequence.
Is meant in the present invention, the expression "between ... and ...", a range of values which the terminals mentioned are excluded, and
"... To ..." and "from ... to ...", a range of values whose terminals are included.
a) Block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C The block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C for example a Tg ranging from 40 to 150 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 50 ° C, for example ranging from 50 ° C to 120 ° C and better still greater or equal to 60 ° C, for example ranging from 60 ° C to 120 ° C.
The block with a Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.
In the case where this block is a homopolymer, it is derived from monomer whose homopolymer has a glass transition temperature exceeding 40 ° C.
In the case where the first block is a copolymer, it may be totally or partially derived from one or more monomers, the nature and concentration are chosen such that the Tg of the resulting copolymer is greater than or equal to 40 ° C. The copolymer may for example include:
- Monomers whose homopolymer has a Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C, for example a Tg ranging from 40 to 150 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 50 ° C, for example ranging from 50 ° C to 120 ° C and greater than or equal to 60 ° C, for example ranging from 60 ° C to 120 ° C, and
- Monomers whose homopolymer has a Tg less than 40 ° C, chosen from monomers whose homopolymer has a Tg of between 20 to 40 ° C and / or the monomers whose homopolymer has a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C, for example a Tg ranging from -100 to 20 ° C, preferably below 15 ° C, especially ranging from - 80 ° C to 15 ° C and preferably below 10 ° C, for example ranging from -50 ° C to 0 ° C, as described later.
The monomers whose homopolymer has a glass transition temperature exceeding 40 ° C are preferably chosen from the following monomers, also known as the main monomers:
- Methacrylates of formula CH<sub>2</sub> = C (CH<sub>3</sub>) -COORι wherein R, represents an unsubstituted alkyl group, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl group or R represents a cycloalkyl group -C C-ι<sub>2</sub>
- CH formula acrylates<sub>2</sub> = CH-COOR<sub>2</sub> wherein R<sub>2</sub> is cycloalkyl C to Cι<sub>2</sub> as an isobornyl group or a tert-butyl group,
(meth) acrylamides of formula:
<img id="imgf000015_0001" he="23" wi="55" file="imgf000015_0001.tif" img-format="tif" img-content="drawing" orientation="portrait" inline="no" />
wherein R and R<sub>8</sub> identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group Ci-Cι<sub>2</sub> linear or branched, such as n-butyl, t-butyl, isopropyl, isohexyl, isooctyl or isononyl; or R<sub>7</sub> is H and R<sub>8</sub> represents a 1, 1-dimethyl-3-oxobutyl group, and R 'denotes H or methyl. Examples of monomers that may be mentioned include N-butylacrylamide, Nt-butylacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, N, N-dimethylacrylamide and N, N-dibutylacrylamide,
- And mixtures thereof.
Particularly preferred main monomers are methyl methacrylate, (meth) acrylate, isobutyl (meth) isobornyl acrylate and mixtures thereof.
b) Block with a Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C. The block with a Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C for example a Tg ranging from -100 to 20 ° C, preferably less than or equal to 15 ° C, especially ranging from -80 ° C to 15 ° C and preferably less or equal to 10 ° C, for example ranging from -50 ° C to 0 ° C.
The block with a Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C may be a homopolymer or a copolymer;
In the case where this block is a homopolymer, it is derived from monomers which are such (s) that the homopolymers prepared from these monomers have glass transition temperatures less than or equal to 20 ° C. This second block may be a homopolymer, consisting of only one type of monomer (for which the Tg of the corresponding homopolymer is less than or equal to 20 ° C).
In the case where the block with a lower or Tg at 20 ° C is a copolymer, it may be totally or partially derived from one or more monomers, the nature and concentration are chosen such that the Tg of the resulting copolymer is less than or equal to 20 ° C. It may for example comprise
- One or more monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C, for example a Tg ranging from -100 ° C to 20 ° C, preferably below 15 ° C, especially ranging from - 80 ° C to 15 ° C and preferably below 10 ° C, for example ranging from -50 ° C to 0 ° C and - one or more monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a Tg greater than 20 ° C, such as monomers with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C, for example a Tg ranging from 40 to 150 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 50 ° C, for example ranging from 50 ° C to 120 ° C and better still greater than or equal to 60 ° C, for example ranging from 60 ° C to 120 ° C and / or monomers with a Tg of between 20 and 40 ° C, as described above.
Preferably, the block with a Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C is a homopolymer. The monomers whose homopolymer has a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C are preferably chosen from the following monomers, or main monomer:
- CH formula acrylates<sub>2</sub> = CHCOOR<sub>3</sub>,
R<sub>3</sub> representing a substituted alkyl group at C<sub>12</sub>Linear or branched, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, in which is (are) optionally intercalated (s) one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, S,
- Methacrylates of formula CH<sub>2</sub> = C (CH<sub>3</sub>) -COOR4,
R<sub>4</sub> representing a substituted alkyl it to Cι<sub>2</sub> linear or branched, in which is (are) optionally intercalated (s) one or more heteroatoms selected from 0, N and S;
- A formula of vinyl esters<sub>5</sub>-CO-O-CH = CH<sub>2</sub> wherein R<sub>5</sub> is alkyl C<sub>4</sub> -C-ι<sub>2</sub> straight or branched;
- Vinyl alcohol ethers, and alcohol C<sub>4</sub> to Cι<sub>2</sub>, - N-alkyl C<sub>4</sub> to Cι<sub>2</sub> acrylamides, such as N-octylacrylamide,
and mixtures thereof.
Particularly preferred main monomers for the block with a Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C are alkyl acrylates whose alkyl chain contains from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, except the tert-butyl group, such as acrylate methyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl and mixtures thereof.
c) Block with a Tg of between 20 and 40 ° C.
The sequence which has a Tg of between 20 and 40 ° C may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. In the case where this block is a homopolymer, it is derived from monomers (or main monomer) whose homopolymer has a glass transition temperature between 20 and 40 ° C.
The monomers whose homopolymer has a glass transition temperature between 20 and 40 ° C are preferably chosen from methacrylate, n-butyl acrylate, cyclodecyl acrylate, neopentyl isodecylacrylamide and mixtures thereof.
In the case where the block with a Tg of between 20 and 40 ° C is a copolymer, it is totally or partially derived from one or more monomers (or main monomer) whose nature and concentration are chosen such that the Tg of the resulting copolymer is between 20 and 40 ° C. Advantageously, the block with a Tg of between 20 and 40 ° C is a copolymer outcome in whole or in part:
- Main monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C, for example a Tg ranging from 40 ° C to 150 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 50 ° C, for example ranging from 50 to 120 ° C and better still greater than or equal to 60 ° C, for example ranging from 60 ° C to 120 ° C, as described above, and
- Main monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C, for example a Tg ranging from -100 to 20 ° C, preferably less than or equal to 15 ° C, especially ranging from -80 ° C at 15 ° C and preferably less than or equal to 10 ° C, for example ranging from -50 ° C to 0 ° C, as described above, the said monomers being chosen such that the Tg of the copolymer forming the first block is between 20 and 40 ° C.
Such main monomers are chosen, for example methyl methacrylate, acrylate and methacrylate, isobornyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the proportion of the second block with a Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C is from 10 to 85% by weight of the polymer, more preferably from 20 to 70% and more preferably 20 to 50%.
Preferably, the polymer used in the composition according to the invention does not include a styrenic monomer such as styrene or styrene derivatives such as methylstyrene, chlorostyrene or chloromethylstyrene.
Each of the blocks may contain in small proportion at least one constituent monomer of the other sequence.
Thus, the first block may contain at least one constituent monomer of the second block, and vice versa.
Each of the first and / or second blocks (Fri) comprise, in addition to the monomers indicated above, one or more other monomers known as additional monomers, different from the main monomers mentioned above.
The nature and amount of this or these additional monomer are chosen so that the sequence in which they are present has the desired glass transition temperature.
This additional monomer is for example selected from: a) hydrophilic monomers such as: - unsaturated monomers (s) ethylenic (s) comprising at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid function, for instance: acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, vinylbenzoic acid, vinylphosphoric acid and the salts thereof,
- Unsaturated monomers (s) ethylenic (s) comprising at least one tertiary amine function, for instance 2-vinylpyridine, 4-vinylpyridine, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and salts thereof, - methacrylates of formula CH<sub>2</sub> = C (CH<sub>3</sub>) COOR<sub>6</sub> wherein R<sub>6</sub> represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl group, said alkyl group being substituted by one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl groups (such as methacrylate 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) and halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I, F), such as trifluoroethyl methacrylate, - methacrylates of formula CH<sub>2</sub> = C (CH<sub>3</sub>) -COORg,
R is alkyl C<sub>6</sub> -C<sub>12</sub> linear or branched, in which is (are) optionally intercalated (s) one or more heteroatoms selected from 0, N and S, said alkyl group being substituted by one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms ( Cl, Br, I, F); - CH formula acrylates<sub>2</sub> = CHCOOR<sub>10</sub>,
Rio representing an alkyl group with Cι<sub>2</sub> linear or branched substituted by one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I and F), such as acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, or R represents an alkyl (CrCι<sub>2</sub>) O-POE (polyoxyethylene) with repetition of the oxyethylene unit 5 to 30 times, for example methoxy-POE, or R represents a polyoxyethylene group comprising from 5 to 30 ethylene oxide units
b) ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising one or more silicon atoms, such as methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane trimethoxy silane, methacryloxypropyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane, - and mixtures thereof.
Particularly preferred additional monomers are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, trifluoroethyl methacrylate and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the polymer used in the composition according to the invention is a non-silicone polymer, i.e. a polymer free of silicon atoms.
This or these additional monomers represent (s) generally a less than or equal to 30% by weight, for example from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight and, more preferably, from 7 to 15 % by weight of the total weight of the first and / or second blocks.
Preferably, each of the first and second blocks comprises at least one monomer selected from esters of (meth) acrylic acid as defined above, and optionally a monomer selected from (meth) acrylic acid, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, each of the first and second blocks is totally derived from at least one monomer selected from esters of (meth) acrylic acid as defined above, and optionally a monomer selected from (meth) acrylic acid, and their mixtures thereof.
The polymer used in the composition according to the invention can be obtained by radical solution polymerization according to the following preparation process: a portion of the polymerization solvent is introduced into a suitable reactor and heated until the adequate temperature for the polymerization ( typically between 60 and 120 ° C), once this temperature is reached, the constituent monomers of the first block are introduced in the presence of a portion of the polymerization initiator, after a time T corresponding to a conversion rate maximum of 90%, the constituent monomers of the second block and the rest of the initiator are introduced, - the mixture is allowed to react for a time T (ranging from 3 to 6 hours) after which the mixture is brought to room temperature, the polymer is obtained in solution in the polymerization solvent. By polymerization solvent is meant a solvent or solvent mixture. The polymerization solvent may be chosen especially from ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, alcohols such as isopropanol and ethanol, aliphatic alkanes such as isododecane, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polymerization solvent is a mixture of butyl acetate and isopropanol, or isododecane.
According to a first embodiment, the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one (especially one) first block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C, as described above in a) and at least one (especially one) second block with a Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C, as described above in b).
Preferably, the first block with a Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C is a copolymer derived from monomers whose homopolymer has a glass transition temperature exceeding 40 ° C, such as the monomers described above.
Advantageously, the second block with a Tg less than or equal to
20 ° C is a homopolymer, especially derived monomer as described above.
Preferably, the proportion of the block with a Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C is from 20 to 90% by weight of polymer, preferably from 30 to 80% and more preferably 50 to 70%. Preferably, the proportion of the block with a Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C is from 5 to 75% by weight of polymer, preferably from 15 to 50% and better still from 25 to 45%.
Thus, in a first variant, the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention may comprise:
- A first Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C, for example having a Tg ranging from 70 to 110 ° C, which is a methacrylate copolymer, methyl methacrylate / acrylic acid, - A second sequence Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C, for example ranging from 0 to 20 ° C, which is a methyl acrylate homopolymer and
- An intermediate block which is a methyl methacrylate copolymer / acrylic acid / methyl acrylate.
In a second embodiment, the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention may comprise:
- A first Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C, for example ranging from 70 to 100 ° C, which is a methacrylate copolymer, methyl methacrylate / acrylic acid / trifluoroethyl methacrylate,
- A second sequence Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C, for example ranging from 0 to 20 ° C, which is a methyl acrylate homopolymer and
- An intermediate block which is a random copolymer of methyl methacrylate / acrylic acid / methyl acrylate / trifluoroethyl methacrylate.
In a third variant, the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention may comprise:
- A first Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C, for example ranging from 85 to 115 ° C, which is an isobornyl acrylate / isobutyl methacrylate,
- A second sequence Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C, for example ranging from -85 to -55 ° C, which is a homopolymer of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and
- An intermediate block which is an isobornyl acrylate random copolymer / isobutyl methacrylate / acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl.
In a fourth variant, the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention may comprise:
- A first Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C, for example ranging from 85 to 115 ° C, which is an isobornyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate,
- A second sequence Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C, for example ranging from -85 to -55 ° C, which is a homopolymer of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and - An intermediate block which is an isobornyl acrylate random copolymer / methyl methacrylate / acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl.
According to a fifth variant, the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention may comprise:
- A first Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C, for example ranging from 95 to 125 ° C, which is an isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate,
- A second sequence Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C, for example ranging from -85 to -55 ° C, which is a homopolymer of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and
- An intermediate block which is a random copolymer of isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate / acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl.
According to a sixth variant, the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention may comprise:
- A first Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C, for example ranging from 85 to 115 ° C, which is a copolymer of isobornyl methacrylate / isobutyl methacrylate,
- A second sequence Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C, for example ranging from -35 to -5 ° C, which is an isobutyl acrylate homopolymer and
- An intermediate block which is a random copolymer of isobornyl methacrylate / isobutyl methacrylate / isobutyl acrylate.
According to a seventh variant, the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention may comprise:
- A first Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C, for example ranging from 95 to 125 ° C, which is an isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate,
- A second sequence Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C, for example ranging from -35 to -5 ° C, which is an isobutyl acrylate homopolymer and
- An intermediate block which is a random copolymer of isobornyl methacrylate / isobornyl methacrylate / isobutyl acrylate. According to an eighth variant, the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention may comprise:
- A first Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C, for example ranging from 60 to 90 ° C, which is an isobornyl acrylate / isobutyl methacrylate,
- A second sequence Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C, for example ranging from -35 to -5 ° C, which is an isobutyl acrylate homopolymer and
- An intermediate block which is an isobornyl acrylate random copolymer / isobutyl methacrylate / isobutyl acrylate.
According to a second embodiment, the polymer used in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one (especially one) first block with a glass transition temperature (Tg) of between 20 and 40 ° C, according to the blocks described in c ) and at least one (especially one) second block with a glass transition temperature of ≤ 20 ° C, as described above in b) or a glass transition temperature exceeding 40 ° C, as described in a) above.
Preferably, the proportion of the first block with a Tg of between 20 and 40 ° C is from 10 to 85% by weight of polymer, preferably from 30 to 80% and even better still from 50 to 70%.
When the second sequence is a sequence having greater than or equal to Tg 40 ° C, it is preferably present in a proportion ranging from 10 to 85% by weight of polymer, preferably from 20 to 70% and better still from 30 to 70 %.
When the second sequence is a sequence having less than or equal to Tg 20 ° C, it is preferably present in a proportion ranging from 10 to 85% by weight of polymer, preferably from 20 to 70% and better still from 20 to 50 %.
Preferably, the first block with a Tg of between 20 and 40 ° C is a copolymer derived from monomers which are such (s) than the homopolymer corresponding to a Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C and from monomers which are such (s) that the corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C. .Avantageusement, The second block with a Tg less than or equal to 20 ° C or having a Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C is a homopolymer.
Thus, according to first variant of this second embodiment, the polymer used in the composition according to the invention may comprise:
- A first Tg sequence comprised between 20 and 40 ° C, for example having a Tg from 25 to 39 ° C, which is a copolymer comprising at least one methyl acrylate monomer, at least one monomer of methyl methacrylate and at least one acrylic acid monomer,
- A second Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C, for example ranging from 85 to 125 ° C, which is a homopolymer composed of methyl methacrylate monomers, and - an intermediate block comprising at least one methyl acrylate monomer, methacrylate methyl and
- An intermediate block comprising methyl methacrylate, at least one acrylic acid monomer and at least one methyl acrylate monomer.
According to a second variant of this second embodiment, the polymer used in the composition according to the invention may comprise:
- A first sequence Tg of between 20 and 40 ° C, for example with a Tg from 21 to 39 ° C, which is a copolymer comprising isobornyl acrylate / isobutyl methacrylate / acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl, - a second sequence of less than or equal to Tg 20 ° C, for example ranging from -65 to -35 ° C, which is a methyl methacrylate homopolymer and
- An intermediate block which is an isobornyl acrylate random copolymer / isobutyl methacrylate / acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl.
In a third variant of this second embodiment, the polymer used in the composition according to the invention may comprise: - A first sequence Tg of between 20 and 40 ° C, for example with a Tg from 21 to 39 ° C, which is an isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / acrylic acid,
- A second block with a Tg isupérieure or equal to 40 ° C, for example ranging from 85 to 115 ° C, which is an isobornyl acrylate homopolymer and
- An intermediate block which is an isobornyl acrylate random copolymer / methyl acrylate / acrylic acid.
The block polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight , and more preferably from 1% to 40% by weight.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the organic liquid medium of the composition contains at least one organic liquid which is the or one of organic solvent (s) polymerization of the block polymer as described above. Advantageously, said organic polymerization solvent is the major organic liquid by weight present in the organic liquid medium of the cosmetic composition.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, ie a medium compatible with keratin materials such as skin, lips, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and nails.
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil.
"Oil" means any non-aqueous liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), compatible with application to the skin, mucous membranes (lips) and / or the skin appendages (nails, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair).
Volatile oils, any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or the lips in less than one hour, in particular having a pressure vapor at room temperature and atmospheric pressure ranging from 10<sup>'3</sup> to 300 mmHg (0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa).
According to the invention, one can use one or more volatile oils.
These oils can be oils, hydrocarbon or silicone oils optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendent or at the silicone chain end.
By hydrocarbon oil means an oil formed essentially, indeed even composed, of carbon and hydrogen and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, and containing no silicon or fluorine atom. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and or amide.
As volatile silicone oil used in the invention include linear or cyclic silicones having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil in the invention, mention may be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptaméthylhexyltri siloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
As other volatile oils in the invention, especially preferred isoparaffins Ca-Ciβ as isododecane, isodecane isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar and Permethyl, and in particular isododecane (Permethyl 99 A).
The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight and preferentially from 10% to 35% by weight. The composition according to the invention may comprise a non-volatile oil.
The term non-volatile oil an oil capable of remaining on the skin at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure at least an hour and that especially has a vapor pressure at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure, not no less than 0.01 mm Hg (1, 33 Pa).
The non-volatile oil may be chosen from silicone or hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils.
The non-volatile oil may be chosen from polar or apolar non-volatile oils, polar non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
The non-volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, and preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, especially ranging from 20% to 50% by weight.
Non-volatile oil used in the invention include:
- Hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils such as liquid paraffin (or vaseline), squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (Parleam oil), perhydrosqualene, mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, oil of sweet almond oil, beauty-leaf oil, palm oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, arara oil, rapeseed, sunflower, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive or cereal germ oil; of the lanolin acid esters, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; fatty esters, particularly C12-C36. such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, palmitate, 2- ethylhexyl laurate 2-hexyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyl-decyl<sub>s</sub> myristate or lactate, 2-octyldodecyl, succinate, di (2-ethylhexyl), diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate or diglyceryl; higher fatty acids, especially C14-C22. such as myristic acid, palmitic, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols, in particular C | g- C22. such as cetanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleic or linolenic acids, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol; and mixtures thereof.
- Non-volatile silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) non-volatile; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones as phenyltrimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes; polysiloxanes modified by fatty acids (in particular Cs-C20). fatty alcohols (especially of C 8 -C 20) or polyoxyalkylenes (especially polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene); aminosilicones; silicones containing hydroxyl groups; fluorinated silicones containing a fluorinated group that is pendent or at the silicone chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, all or part of hydrogen are substituted by fluorine atoms; and mixtures thereof
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least solid fat at room temperature, especially chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and mixtures thereof. These fatty substances may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic.
By wax in the sense of the present invention, means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25 ° C), with reversible solid / liquid reversible, having a melting point up to 30 ° C up until to 120 ° C. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.
The waxes can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone and may be of plant, mineral, animal and / or synthetic. In particular, the waxes have a melting point greater than 25 ° C and greater than 45 ° C. As waxes used in the composition of the invention include beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch, silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms.
The gums are generally polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) of high molecular weight or cellulose gums or polysaccharides and the pasty substances are generally hydrocarbon compounds such as lanolin and derivatives thereof, or PDMS. The nature and quantity of the solid substances depend on the mechanical properties and textures. As a guide, the composition may contain from 0.1 to 50% by weight of waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition and better still from 1 to 30% by weight.
The composition may thus comprise water or a mixture of water and solvent (s) organic (s) hydrophilic (s) such as alcohols and especially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, and polyols such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, or alternatively ethers C<sub>2</sub> aldehydes and C<sub>2</sub>-C hydrophilic.
The water or the mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 10% to 80% by weight.
The composition may comprise, besides the block polymer described above according to the invention, an additional polymer such as a film-forming polymer. According to the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous film that adheres to a support, especially to keratin materials. Among the film-forming polymers used in the composition of the present invention, synthetic polymers include, of radical type or of polycondensate type, natural polymers and mixtures thereof. Film-forming polymers which may be mentioned in particular acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas and cellulose polymers such as nitrocellulose.
The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble dyes and pulverulent coloring materials such as pigments, pearlescent agents and glitter well known in the art. The dyestuffs may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight.
Pigments should be understood particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.
Pearlescent agents should be understood to mean iridescent particles of any form, especially produced by certain mollusks in their shell or synthesized.
The pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic. These include, among inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium, violet manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.
Among the organic pigments, carbon black include, type of the D & C pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum.
It may also be made of effect pigments, such as particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, natural or synthetic, for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas, the said substrate being coated with metallic substances such as aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper, bronze, or metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, oxide iron, chromium oxide and mixtures thereof.
The pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated especially with blue iron or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. . One can also use interference pigments, in particular liquid crystal or multilayer.
Water-soluble dyes are for example beetroot juice, methylene blue.
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler, especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight. By fillers are meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, inorganic or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve especially to modify the rheology or texture of the composition. The fillers may be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Include talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders (Nylon®) (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon® ) lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® of Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), particles polyorganosiloxane elastomers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass microcapsules or ceramic, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.
The composition according to the invention may also contain diced ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, thickeners, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, basifying or acidifying agents, preservatives, sunscreens , surfactants, antioxidants, anti hair-loss agents, anti-dandruff agents, propellants, or mixtures thereof. Of course, the skilled care to select this or these optional additional compounds and / or their quantity, such that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by addition envisaged.
The composition according to the invention may especially be in the form of suspension, dispersion, solution, gel, emulsion, including oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O ), or multiple (W / O / W or polyol / O / W or O / W / O), as a cream, paste, foam, dispersion of vesicles, especially of ionic or nonionic lipids, two-phase lotion or multiphase, spray, powder, a paste, especially a soft paste (in particular paste having a dynamic viscosity at 25 ° C of the order of 0.1 to 40 Pa.s at a shear rate of 200 s<sup>"1</sup>After 10 minutes geometry measurement cone / plate). The composition may be anhydrous, for example it may be a paste or an anhydrous stick. The composition may be a leave-in composition.
The skilled person may select the appropriate dosage form and its method of preparation, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account both the nature of the constituents used, especially their solubility in the support, and secondly to the application envisaged for the composition.
According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising: i) a container delimiting at least one compartment, said container being closed<sup>"</sup> by a closing member; and ii) a composition placed inside the said compartment, the composition being in accordance with any one of the preceding claims.
The container can be in any suitable form. It may especially be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case, a box, a sachet or a carton.
The closing member may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid, a cover, a tear-off strip or a capsule, especially of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap articulated on the body. It may also be in the form of a member ensuring the selective closure of the container, especially a pump, a valve or a flap valve.
The container may be combined with an applicator, especially in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles maintained by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is described especially in patent US 4 887 622. It may also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application members, obtained especially by molding. Such combs are described for example in patent FR 2 796 529. The applicator may be in the form of a brush, as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380. The applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or of elastomer, a felt or a spatula. The applicator may be free (tuft or sponge) or securely fastened to a rod borne by the closing member, as described for example in US Patent 5 492 426. The applicator may be secured to the receptacle, as described for example FR 2761959. The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly. For example, the product may be arranged on an impregnated support, especially in the form of a wipe or a pad, and arranged (individually or in plurality) in a box or in a sachet. Such a support incorporating the product is described for example in patent application WO 01/03538.
The closing member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closing member and the container is done other than by screwing, especially via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fastening, gripping, welding, bonding or by magnetic attraction. "Snapping" in particular means any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, including the closing member, followed by return elastically unstressed position of the said portion after the crossing of the bead or cord.
The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene. Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, especially glass or metal (or alloy).
The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, especially in form of a tube or a tubular bottle.
The container may comprise means for causing or facilitating the distribution of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the output of the composition in response to an excess pressure inside the container, this positive pressure being caused by elastic (or non-elastic) squeezing of the container walls . Alternatively, especially when the product is in the form of a stick, the latter can be driven by a piston mechanism. Always in the case of a stick, especially of makeup product (lipstick, foundation, etc.), the container may comprise a mechanism, especially a rack or with a threaded rod or a helical groove mechanism, and capable of moving a stick in the direction of said opening. Such a mechanism is described for example in FR 2806273 or in patent FR 2 775 566. Such a mechanism for a liquid product is described in FR 2,727,609.
The container may consist of a carton with a base delimiting at least one housing containing the composition, and a lid, especially articulated on the base, and capable of covering at least partially said bottom. Such a case is described for example in application WO 03/018423 or in patent FR 2 791 042.
The container may be equipped with a drainer arranged in the vicinity of the container opening. Such a drainer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to which it may be secured. Such a drainer is described for example in FR 2792618.
The composition may be at atmospheric pressure inside the container (at room temperature) or pressurized, especially by means of a propellent gas (aerosol). In the latter case, the container is equipped with a valve (of the type used for aerosols).
The content of the patents or patent applications mentioned above are incorporated by reference in the present application.
The invention is further illustrated by the examples described below.
Example 1:
Preparing a polymer polv.acrylate isobornyl acrylate / isobutyl methacrylate / acrylate 2-ethylhexyl) 100 g of isododecane are introduced into a 1 liter reactor and the temperature is increased so as to pass from room temperature (25 ° C) to 90 ° C over 1 hour.
are then added at 90 ° C and in 1 hour, 120 g of isobornyl acrylate, 90 g of isobutyl methacrylate, 110 g of isododecane and 1, 8 g of 2.5- Bis (2- éthylhexanoy! peroxy ) -2.5-dimethyl hexane (Trigonox<sup>®</sup> 141 Akzo Nobel). The mixture was held for 1 h 30 to 90 ° C.
Is then introduced into the above mixture, still at 90 ° C in 30 minutes, 90 g of acrylate 2-ethylhexyl, 90 g of isododecane and 1, 2 g of 2.5- Bis (2- ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2.5 -diméthylhexane.
The mixture is kept 3 hours at 90 ° C and then the whole is cooled.
This gave a solution containing 50% polymer active material in isododecane.
A polymer comprising a first sequence or block poly (isobornyl acrylate / isobutyl methacrylate) having a Tg of 80 ° C, a second polyacrylate sequence of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate having a Tg of - 70 ° C and a intermediate block which is an isobornyl acrylate random polymer / isobutyl methacrylate / acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl.
This polymer has a weight-average mass of 77 000 and an average weight of 19 000, ie a polydispersity index I of 4.05.
Example 2:
Preparing a polymer of Poly (isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate / acrylate 2-ethylhexyl)
100 g of isododecane are introduced into a 1 liter reactor and the temperature is increased so as to pass from room temperature (25 ° C) to 90 ° C over 1 hour. are then added at 90 ° C and in 1 hour, 105 g of isobornyl acrylate, 105 g of isobornyl methacrylate and 110 g of isododecane and 1, 8 g of 2.5- Bis (2- ethylhexanoylperoxy) - 2.5-dimethyl hexane (Trigonox<sup>®</sup> 141 Akzo Nobel). The mixture was held for 1 h 30 to 90 ° C. Is then introduced into the above mixture, still at 90 ° C in 30 minutes, 90 g of acrylate 2-ethylhexyl, 90 g of isododecane and 1, 2 g of 2.5- Bis (2- ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2.5 -diméthylhexane.
The mixture is kept 3 hours at 90 ° C and then the whole is cooled. This gave a solution containing 50% polymer active material in isododecane.
A polymer comprising a first sequence or block poly (isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate) having a Tg of 110 ° C, a second polyacrylate sequence of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate having a Tg of - 70 ° C and a intermediate block which is an acrylate random polymer isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate / acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl. <sup>•</sup>
This polymer has a weight-average mass of 103 900 and an average weight of 21 300, ie a polydispersity index I of 4.89.
Example 3:
Preparing a polymer of Poly (isobornyl acrylate / isobutyl methacrylate / isobutyl acrylate)
100 g of isododecane are introduced into a 1 liter reactor and the temperature is increased so as to pass from room temperature (25 ° C) to 90 ° C over 1 hour.
are then added at 90 ° C and in 1 hour, 120 g of isobornyl acrylate, 90 g of isobutyl methacrylate, 110 g of isododecane and 1, 8 g of 2.5- Bis (2- ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2.5 -diméthylhexane (Trigonox<sup>®</sup> 141 Akzo Nobel). The mixture was held for 1 h 30 to 90 ° C. Is then introduced into the above mixture, still at 90 ° C in 30 minutes, 90 g of isobutyl acrylate, 90 g of isododecane and 1, 2 g of 2.5- Bis (2- ethylhexanoylperoxy) 2,5-dimethylhexane.
The mixture is kept 3 hours at 90 ° C and then the whole is cooled. This gave a solution containing 50% polymer active material in isododecane.
A polymer comprising a first sequence or block poly (acry ate isobornyl acrylate / isobutyl methacrylate!) Having a Tg of 75 ° C, a second sequence of isobutyl acrylate having a Tg of - 20 ° C and a sequence which intermediate is an acrylate random polymer isobornyl acrylate / isobutyl methacrylate / isobutyl acrylate.
This polymer has a weight-average mass of 144 200 and an average weight of 49 300, ie a polydispersity index I of 2.93.
example 4
a liquid lipstick was prepared having the following composition:
Block polymer of Example 2 to 50% by weight in isododecane 50 g
Hydrophobic treated fumed silica
(Aerosil R 972 from Degussa) 5 g hydrogenated polyisobutylene (parleam oil) 2.1 g
Octyldodecanol 0.9 g
phenylated silicone oil (Dow Corning 556 C) 2.1 g Copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone / Eicosene
(Antaron V220 ISP) 1, 2 g 3 g Pigments
Isododecane qs 100 g the octydodécanol mixed, the silicone oil, parleam oil, and the copolymer of polyvinyl pyrroϋdone / Eicosene heating to about 60 ° C. Is produced with this mixture a pigment millbase pigments by performing three passes of the mixture to the grinder sorting cylinders.
then mixed at room temperature the pigment millbase, isododecane, the block polymer is then introduced to the final silica. The formula is then introduced into a sealed bouiilote.
then measured the non-transfer lipstick obtained according to the measuring protocol described above. The lipstick forms a film having a transfer 0%.
example 5
a liquid lipstick having a composition similar to that of Example 4 wherein the polymer of Example 2 was replaced by the polymer of Example 1 in the same amount was prepared.
The lipstick obtained forms a film having a transfer 0%, measured according to the protocol described above.
example 6
a liquid lipstick was prepared having the following composition
Block polymer of Example 3 to 50% by weight in isododecane 90.7 g
Hydrophobic treated fumed silica
(Aerosil R 972 from Degussa) 5 g
hydrogenated polyisobutylene (parleam oil) 2.1 g Octyldodecanol 0.9 g
phenylated silicone oil (Dow Corning 556 C) 2.1 g
Copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone / Eicosene
(Antaron V220 ISP) 1, 2 g
Pigments 3 g
The lipstick obtained forms a film having a transfer 4%, measured according to the protocol described above.
154 members in 13 offices
Priority claims19
| Document | Office | Kind | Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0211949 | France | A | |
| 0211949 | France | A | |
| 0211949 | France | – | |
| 0216437 | France | A | |
| 0216437 | France | A | |
| 0216437 | France | – | |
| 0306121 | France | A | |
| 0306121 | France | A | |
| 0306121 | France | – | |
| 0302845 | France | W | |
| 0302845 | France | W | |
| 0211949 | – | – | – |
| 0216437 | – | – | – |
| 0306121 | – | – | – |
| FR20020011949 | – | – | – |
| FR20020016437 | – | – | – |
| FR20030006121 | – | – | – |
| FR2003002845 | – | – | – |
| WO2003FR02845 | – | – | – |
Members154
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Numbers
- Publication
- 1545438
- Publication, DOCDB
- 1545438
- Publication, EPODOC
- EP1545438
- Application
- 3776945
- Application, DOCDB
- 03776945
- Application, EPODOC
- EP20030776945
Titles3
- German
- BLOCKPOLYMER ENTHALTENDE ABRIEBFESTE KOSMETISCHE ZUSAMMENSETZUNG
- English
- NON-TRANSFER COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SEQUENCED POLYMER
- French
- COMPOSITION COSMETIQUE NON TRANSFERT COMPRENANT UN POLYMERE SEQUENCE
Classification
- CPC, 19
- C08L51/003
- A61K8/26
- A61K8/8111
- A61K8/8152
- A61K8/8182
- A61K8/891
- A61K8/90
- A61K8/922
- A61K8/927
- A61K2800/594
- A61Q1/04
- A61Q1/06
- A61Q1/10
- A61Q3/02
- C08F265/04
- C08F265/06
- C08F291/00
- C08F293/005
- C08L53/00
- IPC, 24
- A61K8 00
- A61K8 90
- A61K8 26
- A61K8 31
- A61K8 34
- A61K8 35
- A61K8 37
- A61K8 46
- A61K8 49
- A61K8 81
- A61K8 891
- A61K8 92
- A61Q1 02
- A61Q1 04
- A61Q1 06
- A61Q1 10
- A61Q3 00
- A61Q3 02
- C08F265 04
- C08F265 06
- C08F291 00
- C08F293 00
- C08L51 00
- C08L53 00
Designated states2
- Contracting states, 1
- Türkiye
- Extension states, 1
- North Macedonia