EP1515684B1

Care and/or make-up cosmetic composition structured with silicone polymers and organogelling agents, in rigid form

Abstract

This record has no abstract on file.

EP1515684B1, drawing sheet 1
Sheet 1 of 125

Term

Term ended

Expired 2 June 2023, 3.3 years ago.

  1. Priority
  2. Filed
  3. Granted
  4. Expired
  5. Today

43 claims: 29 independent, 14 dependent

  1. 1
    Care and/or make-up cosmetic composition comprising a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one silicone oil, structured with a gelling system comprising:1) at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 500 000, containing at least one moiety comprising: - at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1 000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of a graft, and - at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, said group being amide, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250°C, and 2) at least one non-polymeric organogelling agent, the liquid fatty phase and the gelling system forming a physiologically acceptable medium, and the liquid fatty phase comprising at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile non-silicone oil, and further containing a non volatile non silicone oil, in which the organogelling agent comprises at least one compound capable of gelling a silicone oil, chosen from: a) 12-hydroxystearic acid, its salts and its ester or amide derivatives, b) amides of tricarboxylic acids, c) esters and amides of N-acylamino acids, d) diureas of N-acylamino acids, e) urethane amides of dipeptides, f) dibenzylidenesorbitol and its derivatives, g) sterol derivatives, h) cyclodipeptides chosen from cyclo(glycyl-L-alanyl), cyclo(glycyl-L-valyl), cyclo(glycyl-L-leucyl), cyclo(glycyl-L-phenylalanyl), cyclo(L-valyl-L-leucyl), cyclo(L-leucyl-L-leucyl), cyclo(L-phenylalanyl-L-leucyl), cyclo(L-phenylalanyl-L-phenylalanyl), cyclo(L-valyl-L-γ-3,7-dimethyloctylglutamyl), cyclo(L-valyl-L-γ-2-ethylhexylglutamyl), cyclo(L-leucyl-L-y-ethylglutamyl), cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-dodecylglutamyl), cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-3,7-dimethyloctylglutamyl), cyclo(L-leucyl-L-y-benzylglutamyl), cyclo(L-β-butylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl), cyclo(L-γ-dodecylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl), cyclo(L-β-3,7-dimethyloctylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl), cyclo(L-β-2-ethy]-hexylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl), cyclo(L-β-3,5,5-trimethylhexylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl) and cyclo(L-β-2-ethylbutylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl), i) trans-(1R,2R)-bis(undecylcarbonylamino)cyclohexane of formula: j) fluorinated ethers, k) organogelling agents of formula (XVII):         Q-O-W-(CHOH) s -W 1 -O-Q 1      (XVII) in which W and W 1 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from -CH 2 - and -CO-, and in which Q and Q 1 , which may be identical or different, are a hydrocarbon chain chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chains containing at least 6 carbon atoms, and in which s is an integer from 2 to 4;l) bolaamphiphilic amides derived from amino acids of formulae: where R 36 = -CH 2 -C 6 H 5 or -CH 2 -CH 3 , and m) 2-alkyl-2-ammoniumisobutyl acetate p-toluenesulphonate salts of formula (XXII):         p-CH 3 -C 6 H 4 -SO 3 - + H 3 N-CH(R 37 )-CO-OR 38      (XXII) in which R 37 represents:         -CH 2 -CH-(CH 3 ) 2 (leucine), -CH-(CH 3 ) 2 (L-valine), R 38 represents:         -CH 2 -(CH 2 ) n -CH 3 with n = 4 to 12, or n) diamide derivatives of benzenedicarboxylic acid and of valine of formulae: in which -L-Val- represents:         -NH-CH [CH(CH 3 ) 2 )] -CO-;o) diamides of formula (XXV) or (XXVI):         R 44 -X-CO-NH-R 45 -NH-CO-X-R 44      (XXV) or         R 44 -CO-NH-R 45 -NH-CO-R 44      (XXVI) in which the groups R 44 , which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 -C 60 hydrocarbon chain, the group(s) R 44 optionally comprising a hydroxyl group or at least one heteroatom such as N, O, S or Si, R 45 is a hydrocarbon-based group chosen from linear, branched and cyclic C 1 to C 50 groups and C 5 to C 8 arylene groups optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups, and X represents -O- or NH-.
  2. 2
    Composition according to Claim 1, in which the volatile silicone oil has a flash point equal to or greater than 40°C and advantageously greater than the softening point of the gelling system.
  3. 3
    Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the volatile silicone oil is chosen from the group consisting of the following compounds:octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane D4, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane D6, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane of 1.5 cSt, polydimethylsiloxane of 2 cSt, polydimethylsiloxane of 3 cSt, polydimethylsiloxane of 5 cSt, and mixtures thereof.
  4. 4
    Composition according to any one of the preceding Claim, in which the volatile oil has a flash point of 40 to 135°C.
  5. 5
    Composition according to any one of the preceding Claims, in which the liquid fatty phase contains at least 30%, and even better at least 40% by weight of silicone oil.
  6. 6
    Composition according to any one of the preceding Claims, in which the volatile oil represents from 3 to 89.4% of the total weight of the composition.
  7. 7
    Composition according to any one of the preceding Claims, comprising, in addition, solid particles chosen from fillers, pigments and mixtures thereof.
  8. 8
    Composition according to Claim 7, in which the solid particles are hydrophobic particles.
  9. 9
    Composition according to the preceding Claim, in which the solid particles are hydrophilic particles, coated with a film of hydrophobic compound.
  10. 10
    Composition according to Claim 7, in which the solid particles are hydrophilic particles and the composition further comprises an amphiphilic silicone.
  11. 11
    Composition according to one of Claims 7 to 10, in which the particles are pigments chosen from zinc oxides, iron oxides, titanium oxides and mixtures thereof.
  12. 12
    Composition according to any one of the preceding Claims, in which the polymer used in the gelling system comprises at least one moiety corresponding to the formula:in which: 1) R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 , which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from: - linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 to C 40 hydrocarbon-based groups, possibly containing in their chain one or more oxygen, sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms, and possibly being partially or totally substituted with fluorine atoms, - C 6 to C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups, - polyorganosiloxane chains possibly containing one or more oxygen, sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms;2) the groups X, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 to C 30 alkylenediyl group, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms;3) Y is a saturated or unsaturated, C 1 to C 50 linear or branched divalent alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene group, possibly comprising one or more oxygen, sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or bearing as substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C 3 to C 8 cycloalkyl, C 1 to C 40 alkyl, C 5 to C 10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups, C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 to C 6 aminoalkyl, or 4) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: in which - T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 3 to C 24 trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and - R 5 represents a linear or branched C 1 to C 50 alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain, possibly comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulphonamide groups, which may possibly be linked to another chain of the polymer;5) the groups G, which may be identical or different, represent divalent groups of formula: in which R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 to C 20 alkyl group, on condition that at least 50% of the groups R 6 of the polymer represent a hydrogen atom and that at least two of the groups G of the polymer are a group other than: 6) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1 000, preferably from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200.
  13. 13
    Composition according to the preceding Claim, in which Y represents a group chosen from:a) linear C 1 to C 20 and preferably C 1 to C 10 alkylene groups, b) C 30 to C 56 branched alkylene groups possibly comprising rings and unconjugated unsaturations, c) C 5 -C 6 cycloalkylene groups, d) phenylene groups optionally substituted with one or more C 1 to C 40 alkyl groups, e) C 1 to C 20 alkylene groups comprising from 1 to 5 amide groups, f) C 1 to C 20 alkylene groups comprising one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl, C 3 to C 8 cycloalkane, C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 to C 6 alkylamine groups, g) polyorganosiloxane chains of formula: in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , T and m are as defined above.
  14. 14
    Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, in which the polymer used in the gelling system comprises at least one moiety corresponding to formula (II):in which - R 1 and R 3 , which may be identical or different, are as defined above for formula (I) in Claim 12, - R 7 represents a group as defined above for R 1 and R 3 , or represents the group of formula -X-G-R 9 in which X and G are as defined above for formula (I) in Claim 12 and R 9 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 to C 50 hydrocarbon-based group optionally comprising in its chain one or more atoms chosen from O, S and N, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine atoms and/or one or more hydroxyl groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups, - R 8 represents the group of formula -X-G-R 9 in which X, G and R 9 are as defined above, - m 1 is an integer ranging from 1 to 998, and - m 2 is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.
  15. 15
    Composition according to Claim 12, in which the polymer comprises at least one moiety of formula (III) or (IV):or in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , X, Y, m and n are as defined in Claim 12.
  16. 16
    Composition according to either of Claims 12 and 15, in which X and/or Y represent an alkylene group containing in its alkylene portion at least one of the following elements:1) 1 to 5 amide, urea or carbamate groups, 2) a C 5 or C 6 cycloalkyl group, and 3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups, it being possible for the alkyl groups X or Y to also be substituted with at least one element chosen from the group consisting of: - a hydroxyl group, - a C 3 to C 8 cycloalkyl group, - one to three C 1 to C 40 alkyl groups, - a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups, - a C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl group, and - a C 1 to C 6 aminoalkyl group.
  17. 17
    Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 15, in which Y represents:in which R 5 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain and T represents a group of formula: in which a, b and c are, independently, integers ranging from 1 to 10, and R 10 is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 , in Claim 12.
  18. 18
    Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 15, in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 represent, independently, a linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkyl group, preferably a CH 3 , C 2 H 5 , n-C 3 H 7 or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.
  19. 19
    Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, in which the polymer used in the gelling system comprises at least one moiety of formula:in which X 1 and X 2 , which are identical or different, have the meaning given for X in Claim 12 n, Y and T are as defined in Claim 12 R 11 to R 18 are groups chosen from the same group as R 1 to R 4 in Claim 12 m 1 and m 2 are numbers in the range from 1 to 1 000, and p is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.
  20. 20
    Composition according to the preceding Claim, in which:- p is in the range from 1 to 25 and better still from 1 to 7, - R 11 to R 18 are methyl groups, - T corresponds to one of the following formulae: in which R 19 is a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from the groups defined for R 1 to R 4 , and R 20 , R 21 and R 22 are, independently, linear or branched alkylene groups, and more preferably corresponds to the formula: in particular with R 20 , R 21 and R 22 representing -CH 2 -CH 2 -, - m 1 and m 2 are in the range from 15 to 500 and better still from 15 to 45, - X 1 and X 2 represent -(CH 2 ) 10 -, and - Y represents -CH 2 -.
  21. 21
    Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 20, in which the polymer used in the gelling system further comprises a hydrocarbon-based moiety comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof.
  22. 22
    Composition according to the preceding Claim in which the copolymer is a block copolymer or a graft copolymer.
  23. 23
    Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polymer represents from 0.5 to 80% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 60% and even better from 5 to 40% of the total weight of the composition.
  24. 24
    Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the liquid fatty phase represents from 5 to 99% of the total weight of the composition and even better from 20 to 75% of the total weight of the composition.
  25. 25
    Composition according to any one of the preceding Claims, in which the said organogelling agent is chosen from non-polymeric organic compounds whose molecules are capable of establishing, with each other, at least one physical interaction leading to self-aggregation of the said molecules with formation of a three-dimensional macromolecular network.
  26. 26
    Composition according to the preceding Claim, in which the physical interaction(s) are chosen from self-complementary hydrogen interactions, interactions between unsaturated nuclei, dipolar interactions and coordination bonds with organometallic derivatives.
  27. 27
    Composition according to any one of the preceding Claims, in which the organogelling agent is chosen from compounds whose molecules comprise at least one entity chosen from at least one group capable of establishing a hydrogen bond, at least one aromatic nucleus, at least one bond comprising an ethylenic unsaturation and at least one asymmetric carbon.
  28. 28
    Composition according to any one of the preceding Claims, in which the organogelling agent is a compound whose molecules comprise at least two groups capable of establishing a hydrogen bond.
  29. 29
    Composition according to the preceding Claim, in which the group capable of establishing a hydrogen bond is chosen from the hydroxyl, carbonyl, amine, carboxylic acid, amide, benzyl, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups.
  30. 30
    Composition according to Claim 1, in which the organogelling agent comprises at least one compound capable of gelling a silicone oil and possessing at least one group capable of establishing hydrogen interactions with the polymer of the gelling system, chosen from:a) 12-hydroxystearic acid amide derivatives, b) amides of tricarboxylic acids, c) esters and amides of N-acylamino acids, d) diureas of N-acylamino acids, e) urethane amides of dipeptides, f) cyclodipeptides chosen from cyclo(glycyl-L-alanyl), cyclo(glycyl-L-valyl), cyclo(glycyl-L-leucyl), cyclo(glycyl-L-phenylalanyl), cyclo(L-valyl-L-leucyl), cyclo(L-leucyl-L-leucyl), cyclo(L-phenylalanyl-L-leucyl), cyclo(L-phenylalanyl-L-phenylalanyl), cyclo(L-valyl-L-γ-3,7-ditnethyloctylglutamyl), cyclo(L-valyl-L-γ-2-ethylhexylglutamyl), cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-ethylglutamyl), cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-dodecylglutamyl), cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-3,7-dimethyloctylglutamyl), cyclo(L-leucyl-L-γ-benzylglutamyl), cyclo(L-β-butylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl), cyclo(L-γ-dodecylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl), cyclo(L-β-3,7-dimethyloctylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl), cyclo(L-β-2-ethylhexylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl), cyclo(L-β-3,5,5-trimethylhexylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl) and cyclo(L-(3-2-ethylbutylasparaginyl-L-phenylalanyl), g) trans-(1R,2R)-bis(undecylcarbonylamino)cyclohexane of formula: h) bolaamphiphilic amides derived from amino acids of formulae: where R 36 = -CH 2 -C 6 H 5 or -CH 2 -CH 3 , and i) diamide derivatives of benzenedicarboxylic acid and of valine of formulae: in which -L-Val- represents:         -NH-CH [CH(CH 3 ) 2 )] -CO- ;j) diamides of formula (XXV) or (XXVI):         R 44 -X-CO-NH-R 45 -NH-CO-X-R 44      (XXV) or         R 44 -CO-NH-R 45 -NH-CO-R 44      (XXVI) in which the groups R 44 , which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 6 -C 60 hydrocarbon chain, the group(s) R 44 optionally comprising a hydroxyl group or at least one heteroatom such as N, O, S or Si, R 45 is a hydrocarbon-based group chosen from linear, branched and cyclic C 1 to C 50 groups and C 5 to C 8 arylene groups optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups, and X represents -0- or NH-.
  31. 31
    Composition according to any one of the preceding Claims in which the organogelling agent comprises at least one compound chosen from:- the cis-trans mixture of N,N'-bis(dodecanoyl)- 1,2-diaminocyclohexane of formula: - the dibutylamide of N-laurylglutamic acid.
  32. 32
    Composition according to any one of the preceding Claims in which the said organogelling agent is present in a quantity ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5% to 60%, preferably from 1 to 40% and even better from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  33. 33
    Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone polymer/non-polymeric organogelling agent mass ratio is in the range from 20 to 0.15, preferably from 15 to 1.5.
  34. 34
    Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, in addition, at least one cosmetic or dermatological active agent.
  35. 35
    Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the active agent is chosen from essential oils, vitamins, moisturizers, sunscreens, cicatrizing agents and ceramides.
  36. 36
    Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additive chosen from dyes that are soluble in polyols or in the fatty phase, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, perfumes, liposoluble polymers, especially hydrocarbon-based liposoluble polymers such as polyalkylenes or polyvinyl laurate, liquid-fatty-phase gelling agents, waxes, gums, resins, surfactants, for instance trioleyl phosphate, additional cosmetic or dermatological active agents chosen, for example, from the group consisting of water, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, liquid lanolin, essential fatty acids, lipophilic sunscreens or sunscreens that are soluble in polyols, lipid vesicles, and mixtures thereof.
  37. 37
    Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains, in addition, an amphiphilic compound which is liquid at room temperature, having a hydrophilic/lipophilic balance value of less than 12.
  38. 38
    Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises colouring matter.
  39. 39
    Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is provided in the form of a rigid gel, and in particular of a transparent anhydrous stick.
  40. 40
    A composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has the form of a coloured make-up product for the skin, in particular a foundation, optionally having care or treatment properties, a blusher, a face powder, an eyeshadow, a concealer product, an eyeliner or a make-up product for the body;a lip make-up, for instance a lipstick, optionally having care or treatment properties ;a make-up for the superficial body growths, for instance the nails or the eyelashes, in particular in the form of a mascara cake, or for the eyebrows and the hair, especially in the form of a pencil.
  41. 41
    Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 39 characterized in that it is provided in the form of a cake mascara, an eyeliner, a foundation, a lipstick, a blusher, a make-up-removing, a make-up product for the body, an eyeshadow or a face powder, or a concealer product.
  42. 42
    Cosmetic care, make-up or treatment method for the keratinous materials of human beings, comprising the application to the keratinous materials of a cosmetic composition in accordance with one of the preceding claims.
Independent claims42