Use of compositions containing a chosen fluorescent dye and a chosen amphoteric or nonionic surfactant for dyeing human kerateous fibres with a bleaching effect
36 claims: 36 independent, 0 dependent
- 1Use of a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one dye that is fluorescent in the orange range, which is soluble in the medium, chosen from the fluorescent dyes belonging to the following families:naphthalimides;cationic or non-cationic coumarins;xanthenodiquinolizines;azaxanthenes;naphtholactams;azlactones;oxazines;thiazines;dioxazines;monocationic or polycationic fluorescent dyes of azo, azomethine or methine type, and at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines and imidazolium derivatives and/or at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkylpyrrolidones, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty alcohol ethers, and oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty acid esters of monoalcohols, for the dyeing with a lightening effect of artificially coloured or pigmented human keratin fibres, in the absence of oxidation dyes and of oxidizing agents. Utilisation d'une composition comprenant dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, au moins un colorant fluorescent dans la gamme des orangés soluble dans le milieu choisi parmi les colorants fluorescents appartenant aux familles suivantes : les naphtalimides ;les coumannes cationiques ou non ;les xanthénodiquinolizines ;les azaxanthènes ;les naphtolactames , les azlactones ;les oxazines ;les thiazines ;les dioxazines ;les colorants fluorescents monocationiques ou polycationiques de type azoïque, azométhinique, ou méthinique et au moins un tensioactif amphotère choisi parmi les bétaïnes et les dérivés d'imidazolium et/ou au moins un tensioactif non ionique choisi parmi les alkylpyrrolidones, les éthers d'alcools gras oxyalkylénés ou glycérolés, les esters d'acides gras de monoalcools oxyalkylénés ou glycérolés, pour colorer avec un effet éclaircissant des fibres kératiniques humaines pigmentées ou colorées artificiellement, en l'absence de colorants d'oxydation et d'agents oxydants. Verwendung einer Zusammensetzung, die in einem kosmetisch unbedenklichen Medium mindestens einen in dem Medium löslichen Fluoreszenzfarbstoff im Orangebereich, ausgewählt aus den Fluoreszenzfarbstoffen, die zu den folgenden Familien gehören: Naphthalimide;kationische oder nichtkationische Cumarine;Xanthenodichinolizine;Azaxanthene;Naphtholactame;Azlactone;Oxazine;Thiazine;Dioxazine;monokationische oder polykationische Fluoresenzfarbstoffe vom Azo-, Azomethin- oder Methin-Typ, und mindestens ein amphoteres Tensid, ausgewählt aus Betainen und Imidazoliumderivaten, und/oder mindestens ein nichtionisches Tensid, ausgewählt aus Alkylpyrrolidonen, oxyalkylenierten oder glycerinierten Fettalkoholethern, umfasst, zum aufhellend wirkenden Färben von pigmentierten oder künstlich gefärbten menschlichen Keratinfasern in Abwesenheit von Oxidationsfarbstoffen und Oxidationsmitteln.
- 2Use according to either of Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that said fibres have a tone depth of less than or equal to 6 and preferably less than or equal to 4. Utilisation selon l'une des revendications 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que lesdites fibres présentent une hauteur de ton inférieure ou égale à 6, de préférence inférieure ou égale à 4. Verwendung nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Fasern eine Tonhöhe kleiner gleich 6 und vorzugsweise kleiner gleich 4 aufweisen.
- 3Use according to one of Claims 1 to 3, for dyeing hair with a lightening effect, with a lightening effect of at least 0.5 tone. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, pour colorer avec un effet éclaircissant les cheveux avec un effet éclaircissant d'au moins 0,5 ton Verwendung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3 zum aufhellend wirkenden Färben der Haare mit einer Aufhellungswirkung von mindestens 0,5 Ton.
- 4Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from (C8-C20) alkylbetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C8)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C8)alkylsulfobetaines and sulfobetaines, or mixtures thereof. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que les tensioactifs amphotères de type bétaïne sont choisis parmi les alkyl(C8-C20)bétaïnes, les alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C1-C8)bétaïnes, les alkyl(C8-C20) amidoalkyl(C1-C8)sulfobétaines, les sulfobétaïnes ou leurs mélanges Verwendung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die amphoteren Tenside vom Betain-Typ aus (C8-C20)Alkylbetainen, (C8-C20)Alkylamido(C1-C8)alkylbetainen, (C8-C20)Alkylamido(C1-C8)alkylsulfobetainen, Sulfobetainen oder Mischungen davon ausgewählt sind.
- 5Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the imidazolium derivatives are chosen from amphocarboxyglycinates and amphocarboxypropionates, or mixtures thereof. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que les dérivés d'imidazolium sont choisis parmi les amphocarboxyglycinates et les amphocarboxypropionates, ou leurs mélanges. Verwendung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Imidazoliumderivate aus Amphocarboxyglycinaten, Amphocarboxypropionaten oder Mischungen davon ausgewählt sind.
- 6Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the nonionic alkylpyrrolidones are (C1-C30)alkylpyrrolidones. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que les alkylpyrrolidones non ioniques sont des alkyl(C1-C30)pyrrolidones. Verwendung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es sich bei den nichtionischen Alkylpyrrolidonen um (C1-C30)Alkylpyrrolidone handelt.
- 7Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty alcohol ethers are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated or glycerolated, optionally hydroxylated fatty alcohols, with a chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que les éthers d'alcools gras oxyalkylénés ou glycérolés sont choisis parmi les alcools gras éventuellement hydroxylés, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, éthoxylés et/ou propoxylés ou glycérolés, ayant une chaîne comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone. Verwendung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die oxyalkylenierten oder glycerinierten Fettalkoholether aus ethoxylierten und/oder propoxylierten oder glycerinierten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten, gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten Fettalkoholen mit einer Kette mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ausgewählt sind.
- 8Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty acid esters of monoalcohols are chosen from esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids with a fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and of one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated or glycerolated monoalcohols with a fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que les esters d'acides gras et de monoalcools oxyalkylénés ou glycérolés sont choisis parmi les esters d'acides carboxyliques, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés ayant une chaîne grasse comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone et d'un ou plusieurs monoalcools ayant une chaîne grasse comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, linéaire ou ramifiée, saturée ou insaturée éthoxylée et/ou propoxylée ou glycérolée. Verwendung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Fettsäureester von oxyalkylenierten oder glycerinierten Monoalkoholen aus Estern von gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Carbonsäuren mit einer Fettkette mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen und einem oder mehreren ethoxylierten und/oder propoxylierten oder glycerinierten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Monoalkoholen mit einer Fettkette mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ausgewählt sind.
- 9Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant(s) and/or the nonionic surfactant(s) represent from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le ou les tensioactifs amphotères et/ou le ou les tensioactifs non ioniques représentent de 0,01 à 30 % en poids, plus particulièrement de 0,1 à 20 % en poids et de préférence de 0,2 à 10% en poids du poids total de la composition. Verwendung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das oder die amphoteren Tenside und/oder das oder die nichtionischen Tenside 0,01 bis 30 Gew.-%, spezieller 0,1 bis 20 Gew.-% und vorzugsweise 0,2 bis 10 Gew.-% des Gesamtgewichts der Zusammensetzung ausmachen.
- 10Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the optionally neutralized fluorescent dye is soluble in the cosmetically acceptable medium to at least 0.001 g/l, more particularly at least 0.5 g/l, preferably at least 1 g/l, and according to an even more preferred embodiment, at least 5 g/l at a temperature of between 15 and 25°C. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le colorant fluorescent, éventuellement neutralisé, est soluble dans le milieu cosmétiquement acceptable à au moins 0,001 g/l, plus particulièrement au moins 0,5 g/l, de préférence au moins 1 g/l et selon un mode de réalisation encore plus préféré, au moins 5 g/l à la température comprise entre 15 et 25°C. Verwendung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der gegebenenfalls neutralisierte Fluoreszenzfarbstoff in dem kosmetisch unbedenklichen Medium bei einer Temperatur zwischen 15 und 25°C in einer Menge von mindestens 0,001 g/l, spezieller mindestens 0,5 g/l, vorzugsweise mindestens 1 g/l und gemäß einer noch weiter bevorzugten Ausführungsform mindestens 5 g/l löslich ist.
- 11Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorescent dye leads to a reflectance maximum that is in the wavelength range from 500 to 650 nanometres and preferably in the wavelength range from 550 to 620 nanometres. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le colorant fluorescent conduit à un maximum de réflectance se situant dans la gamme de longueur d'onde allant de 500 à 650 nanomètres, et de préférence dans la gamme de longueur d'onde allant de 550 à 620 nanomètres. Verwendung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Fluoreszenzfarbstoff zu einem Remissionsmaximum führt, das im Wellenlängenbereich von 500 bis 650 Nanometer und vorzugsweise im Wellenlängenbereich von 550 bis 620 Nanometer liegt.
- 12Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorescent dye is chosen from the group formed by the dyes having the following structures:in which: R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent: • a hydrogen atom;• a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms and preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and/or substituted with at least one heteroatom and/or group comprising at least one heteroatom and/or substituted with at least one halogen atom;• an aryl or arylalkyl radical, the aryl group containing 6 carbon atoms and the alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms;the aryl radical optionally being substituted with one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted and/or substituted with at least one heteroatom and/or group comprising at least one heteroatom and/or substituted with at least one halogen atom;• R1 and R2 may optionally be linked so as to form a heterocycle with the nitrogen atom and may comprise one or more other heteroatoms, the heterocycle optionally being substituted with at least one linear or branched alkyl radical preferably comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and optionally being interrupted and/or substituted with at least one heteroatom and/or group comprising at least one heteroatom and/or substituted with at least one halogen atom;• R1 or R2 may optionally be engaged in a heterocycle comprising the nitrogen atom and one of the carbon atoms of the phenyl group bearing said nitrogen atom;R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms;R5, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom;R6, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom;a halogen atom;a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted and/or interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or group bearing at least one heteroatom and/or substituted with at least one halogen atom;X represents: • a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms or an alkenyl radical comprising 2 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and/or substituted with at least one heteroatom and/or group comprising at least one heteroatom and/or substituted with at least one halogen atom;• a 5- or 6-membered heterocyclic radical optionally substituted with at least one linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with at least one heteroatom;with at least one linear or branched aminoalkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with at least one heteroatom;with at least one halogen atom;• a fused or non-fused aromatic or diaromatic radical, optionally separated by an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl radical(s) optionally being substituted with at least one halogen atom or with at least one alkyl radical comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted and/or interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or group bearing at least one heteroatom;• a dicarbonyl radical;• the group X possibly bearing one or more cationic charges;a being equal to 0 or 1;Y-, which may be identical or different, representing an organic or mineral anion;n being an integer at least equal to 2 and at most equal to the number of cationic charges present in the fluorescent compound;in which formula R represents a methyl or ethyl radical;R' represents a methyl radical, X- an anion such as chloride, iodide, sulfate, methosulfate, acetate or perchlorate. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le colorant fluorescent est choisi dans le groupe formé par les colorants de structures suivantes : dans laquelle : R1, R2, identiques ou différents, représentent : • un atome d'hydrogène ;• un radical alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, comprenant 1 à 10 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, éventuellement interrompu et/ou substitué par au moins un hétéroatome et/ou groupement comprenant au moins un hétéroatome et/ou substitué par au moins un atome d'halogène ;• un radical aryle ou arylalkyle, le groupement aryle ayant 6 atomes de carbone et le radical alkyle ayant 1 à 4 atomes de carbone ;le radical aryle étant éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs radicaux alkyles linéaires ou ramifiés comprenant 1 à 4 atomes de carbone éventuellement interrompus et/ou substitués par au moins un hétéroatome et/ou groupement comprenant au moins un hétéroatome et/ou substitué par au moins un atome d'halogène ;• R1 et R2 peuvent éventuellement être reliés de manière à former un hétérocycle avec l'atome d'azote et comprendre un ou plusieurs autres hétéroatomes, l'hétérocycle étant éventuellement substitué par au moins un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié, comprenant de préférence de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone et étant éventuellement interrompu et/ou substitué par au moins un hétéroatome et/ou groupement comprenant au moins un hétéroatome et/ou substitué par au moins un atome d'halogène ;• R1 ou R2 peut éventuellement être engagé dans un hétérocycle comprenant l'atome d'azote et l'un des atomes de carbone du groupement phényle portant ledit atome d'azote ;R3, R4, identiques ou non, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle comprenant 1 à 4 atomes de carbone ;R5, identiques ou non, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un atome d'halogène, un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié comprenant 1 à 4 atomes de carbone éventuellement interrompu par au moins un hétéroatome ;R6, identiques ou non, représentent un atome d'hydrogène ;un atome d'halogène ;un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié comprenant 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, éventuellement substitué et/ou interrompu par au moins un hétéroatome et/ou groupement portant au moins un hétéroatome et/ou substitué par au moins un atome d'halogène ;X représente : • un radical alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié comprenant 1 à 14 atomes de carbone, ou alcényle comprenant 2 à 14 atomes de carbone, éventuellement interrompu et/ou substitué par au moins un hétéroatome et/ou groupement comprenant au moins un hétéroatome et/ou substitué par au moins un atome d'halogène ;• un radical hétérocyclique comprenant 5 ou 6 chaînons, éventuellement substitué par au moins un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié comprenant 1 à 14 atomes de carbone, éventuellement substitué par au moins un hétéroatome ;par au moins un radical aminoalkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, comprenant 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, éventuellement substitué par au moins un hétéroatome ;par au moins un atome d'halogène ;• un radical aromatique ou diaromatique condensé ou non, séparé ou non par un radical alkyle comprenant 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, le ou les radicaux aryles étant éventuellement substitués par au moins un atome d'halogène ou par au moins un radical alkyle comprenant 1 à 10 atomes de carbone éventuellement substitué et/ou interrompu par au moins un hétéroatome et/ou groupement portant au moins un hétéroatome;• un radical dicarbonyle ;• le groupement X pouvant porter une ou plusieurs charges cationiques ;a étant égal à 0 ou 1 ;Y-, identiques ou non, représentant un anion organique ou minéral ;n étant un nombre entier au moins égal à 2 et au plus égal au nombre de charges cationiques présentes dans le composé fluorescent ;formule dans laquelle R représente un radical méthyle ou éthyle;R' représente un radical méthyle, X- un anion du type chlorure, iodure, sulfate, méthosulfate, acétate, perchlorate. Verwendung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Fluoreszenzfarbstoff aus der Gruppe bestehend aus den Farbstoffen der folgenden Strukturen ausgewählt ist: worin: R1 und R2 gleich oder verschieden sind und für: • ein Wasserstoffatom;• einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom und/oder mindestens eine Gruppe mit mindestens einem Heteroatom unterbrochen und/oder substituiert ist und/oder durch mindestens ein Halogenatom substituiert ist;• einen Aryl- oder Arylalkylrest, wobei die Arylgruppe 6 Kohlenstoffatome aufweist und der Alkylrest 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatome aufweist;wobei der Arylrest gegebenenfalls durch einen oder mehrere lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, die gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom und/oder mindestens eine Gruppe mit mindestens einem Heteroatom unterbrochen und/oder substituiert sind, und/oder durch mindestens ein Halogenatom substituiert ist;stehen;• R1 und R2 gegebenenfalls zu einem Heterocyclus mit dem Stickstoff, der ein oder mehrere andere Heteroatome enthalten kann, verbunden sind, wobei der Heterocyclus gegebenenfalls durch mindestens einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom und/oder mindestens eine Gruppe mit mindestens einem Heteroatom unterbrochen und/oder substituiert ist, und/oder durch mindestens ein Halogenatom substituiert ist;• R1 oder R2 gegebenenfalls an einem Heterocyclus beteiligt sein kann, der das Stickstoffatom und eines der Kohlenstoffatome der das Stickstoffatom tragenden Phenylgruppe umfasst;R3 und R4 gleich oder verschieden sind und für ein Wasserstoffatom oder einen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen stehen;die Reste R5 gleich oder verschieden sind und für ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Halogenatom oder einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom unterbrochen ist, stehen;die Reste R6 gleich oder verschieden sind und für ein Wasserstoffatom;ein Halogenatom oder einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom und/oder mindestens eine Gruppe mit mindestens einem Heteroatom unterbrochen und/oder substituiert ist und/oder durch mindestens ein Halogenatom substituiert ist, stehen;X für: • einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen oder Alkenylrest mit 2 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom und/oder mindestens eine Gruppe mit mindestens einem Heteroatom unterbrochen und/oder substituiert ist und/oder durch mindestens ein Halogenatom substituiert ist;• einen 5- oder 6-gliedrigen heterocyclischen Rest, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom substituiert ist;durch mindestens einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylaminorest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom substituiert ist;durch mindestens ein Halogenatom substituiert ist;• einen gegebenenfalls anellierten aromatischen oder diaromatischen Rest, der gegebenenfalls durch einen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen abgetrennt ist, wobei der Arylrest oder die Arylreste gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Halogenatom oder durch mindestens einen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom und/oder mindestens eine Gruppe mit mindestens einem Heteroatom substituiert und/oder unterbrochen ist, substituiert sind;• einen Dicarbonylreststeht;• wobei die Gruppe X eine oder mehrere kationische Ladungen tragen kann;a gleich 0 oder 1 ist;die Reste Y- gleich oder verschieden sind und für ein organisches oder anorganisches Anion stehen;wobei n für eine ganze Zahl mit einem Wert von mindestens 2 und höchstens gleich der Zahl der in der Fluoreszenzverbindung vorliegenden kationischen Ladungen steht;worin R für einen Methyl- oder Ethylrest steht;R' für einen Methylrest steht und X- für ein Anion vom Chlorid-, Iodid-, Sulfat-, Methosulfat-, Acetat- oder Perchlorat-Typ steht.
- 13Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorescent dye(s) are present in a weight concentration ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le ou les colorants fluorescents sont présents dans une concentration pondérale allant de 0,01 à 20% en poids, plus particulièrement de 0,05 à 10% en poids, de préférence de 0,1 à 5% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Verwendung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der bzw. die Fluoreszenzfarbstoffe in einer Gewichtskonzentration von 0,01 bis 20 Gew.-%, spezieller 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-% und vorzugsweise 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, vorliegen.
- 14Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition also comprises at least one additional non-fluorescent direct dye of nonionic, cationic or anionic nature. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la composition comprend en outre au moins un colorant direct additionnel non fluorescent de nature non ionique, cationique ou anionique. Verwendung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Zusammensetzung ferner mindestens einen zusätzlichen nichtfluoreszierenden Direktfarbstoff nichtionischer, kationischer oder anionischer Natur umfasst.
- 15Use according to Claim 14, characterized in that the additional direct dyes are chosen from nitrobenzene dyes, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, naphthoquinone dyes, benzoquinone dyes, indigoid dyes and triarylmethane-based dyes, or mixtures thereof. Utilisation selon la revendication 14, caractérisée en ce que les colorants directs additionnels sont choisis parmi les colorants benzéniques nitrés, les colorants azoïques, les colorants anthraquinoniques, naphtoquinoniques ou benzoquinoniques, les colorants indigoïdes, ou les colorants dérivés du triarylméthane, ou leurs mélanges. Verwendung nach Anspruch 14, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die zusätzlichen Direktfarbstoffe aus Nitrobenzol-Farbstoffen, Azo-Farbstoffen, Anthrachinon-, Naphthochinon- oder Benzochinon-Farbstoffen, Indigoid-Farbstoffen oder von Triarylmethan abgeleiteten Farbstoffen oder Mischungen davon ausgewählt sind.
- 16Use according to either of Claims 14 and 15, characterized in that the additional direct dye(s) represent from 0.0005% to 12% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 14 ou 15, caractérisée en ce que le ou les colorants directs additionnels représentent de 0,0005 à 12 % en poids, de préférence de 0,005 à 6 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Verwendung nach einem der Ansprüche 14 oder 15, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die zusätzlichen Direktfarbstoffe 0,0005 bis 12 Gew.-% und vorzugsweise 0,005 bis 6 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, ausmachen.
- 17Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a lightening and colouring shampoo. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la composition se présente sous la forme d'un shampooing éclaircissant et colorant. Verwendung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie in Form eines aufhellenden Färbeshampoos vorliegt.
- 18Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the following steps are performed:a) the composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye and at least one amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactant is applied to keratin fibres, for a time that is sufficient to develop the desired colouring and lightening,b) said fibres are optionally rinsed,c) said fibres are optionally washed with shampoo and rinsed,d) the fibres are dried or left to dry. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'on met en œuvre les étapes suivantes a) on applique sur les fibres kératiniques, la composition comprenant au moins colorant fluorescent et au moins un tensioactif amphotère et/ou non ionique, pendant un temps suffisant pour développer la coloration et l'éclaircissement désirés,b) on rince éventuellement lesdites fibres,c) éventuellement on lave au shampooing et on rince lesdites fibres,d) on sèche ou on laisse sécher les fibres. Verwendung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die folgenden Schritte durchgeführt werden: a) die Zusammensetzung, die mindestens einen Fluoreszenzfarbstoff und mindestens ein amphoteres und/oder nichtionisches Tensid umfasst, wird über einen zur Entwicklung der gewünschten Färbung und Aufhellung ausreichenden Zeitraum auf die Keratinfasern aufgebracht,b) die Fasern werden gegebenenfalls gespült,c) die Fasern werden gegebenenfalls mit Shampoo gewaschen und gespült,d) die Fasern werden getrocknet oder trocknen gelassen.
- 19Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye and at least one amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactant is applied to the skin, and the skin is then dried or left to dry. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4-615, caractérisée en ce que l'on applique sur la peau, la composition comprenant au moins colorant fluorescent et au moins un tensioactif amphotère et/ou non ionique, puis on sèche ou on laisse sécher la peau. Verwendung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 15, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass man die Zusammensetzung, die mindestens einen Fluoreszenzfarbstoff und mindestens ein amphoteres und/oder nichtionisches Tensid umfasst, auf die Haut aufbringt und die Haut dann trocknet oder trocknen lässt.
- 20Composition caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, au moins un colorant fluorescent soluble dans le milieu choisi dans le groupe formé par les colorants de structures suivantes :dans laquelle : R1, R2, identiques ou différents, représentent : • un atome d'hydrogène ;• un radical alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, comprenant 1 à 10 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, éventuellement interrompu et/ou substitué par au moins un hétéroatome et/ou groupement comprenant au moins un hétéroatome et/ou substitué par au moins un atome d'halogène ;• un radical aryle ou arylalkyle, le groupement aryle ayant 6 atomes de carbone et le radical alkyle ayant 1 à 4 atomes de carbone ;le radical aryle étant éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs radicaux alkyles linéaires ou ramifiés comprenant 1 à 4 atomes de carbone éventuellement interrompus et/ou substitués par au moins un hétéroatome et/ou groupement comprenant au moins un hétéroatome et/ou substitué par au moins un atome d'halogène ;• R1 et R2 peuvent éventuellement être reliés de manière à former un hétérocycle avec l'atome d'azote et comprendre un ou plusieurs autres hétéroatomes, l'hétérocycle étant éventuellement substitué par au moins un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié, comprenant de préférence de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone et étant éventuellement interrompu et/ou substitué par au moins un hétéroatome et/ou groupement comprenant au moins un hétéroatome et/ou substitué par au moins un atome d'halogène ;• R1 ou R2 peut éventuellement être engagé dans un hétérocycle comprenant l'atome d'azote et l'un des atomes de carbone du groupement phényle portant ledit atome d'azote ;R3, R4, identiques ou non, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle comprenant 1 à 4 atomes de carbone ;R5, identiques ou non, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un atome d'halogène,un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié comprenant 1 à 4 atomes de carbone éventuellement interrompu par au moins un hétéroatome ;R6, identiques ou non, représentent un atome d'hydrogène ;un atome d'halogène ;un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié comprenant 1 à 4 atomes de carbone,éventuellement substitué et/ou interrompu par au moins un hétéroatome et/ou groupement portant au moins un hétéroatome et/ou substitué par au moins un atome d'halogène ;X représente : • un radical alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié comprenant 1 à 14 atomes de carbone, ou alcényle comprenant 2 à 14 atomes de carbone, éventuellement interrompu et/ou substitué par au moins un hétéroatome et/ou groupement comprenant au moins un hétéroatome et/ou substitué par au moins un atome d'halogène ;• un radical hétérocyclique comprenant 5 ou 6 chaînons, éventuellement substitué par au moins un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié comprenant 1 à 14 atomes de carbone, éventuellement substitué par au moins un hétéroatome ;par au moins un radical aminoalkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, comprenant 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, éventuellement substitué par au moins un hétéroatome ;par au moins un atome d'halogène ;• un radical aromatique ou diaromatique condensé ou non, séparé ou non par un radical alkyle comprenant 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, le ou les radicaux aryles étant éventuellement substitués par au moins un atome d'halogène ou par au moins un radical alkyle comprenant 1 à 10 atomes de carbone éventuellement substitué et/ou interrompu par au moins un hétéroatome et/ou groupement portant au moins un hétéroatome;• un radical dicarbonyle ;• le groupement X pouvant porter une ou plusieurs charges cationiques ;a étant égal à 0 ou 1 ;Y-, identiques ou non, représentant un anion organique ou minéral ;n étant un nombre entier au moins égal à 2 et au plus égal au nombre de charges cationiques présentes dans le composé fluorescent la composition ne comprenant pas, à titre d'agent fluorescent, du 2-[2-(4-dialkylamino)phényl éthényl]-1 alkyl pyridinium dans laquelle le radical alkyle du noyau pyridinium représente un radical méthyle, éthyle, celui du noyau benzénique représente un radical méthyle et dans laquelle le contre ion est un halogénure ;et au moins un tensioactif amphotère choisi parmi les bétaines et les dérivés d'imidazolium et/ou au moins un tensioactif non ionique choisi parmi les alkylpyrrolidones, les éthers d'alcools gras oxyalkylénés ou glycérolés, les esters d'acides gras de monoalcools oxyalkylénés ou glycérolés et les esters d'acides gras et de polyols, en l'absence de colorants d'oxydation et d'agents oxydants. Composition characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent dye that is soluble in the medium, chosen from the group formed by the dyes having the following structures: in which: R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent: • a hydrogen atom;• a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms and preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and/or substituted with at least one heteroatom and/or group comprising at least one heteroatom and/or substituted with at least one halogen atom;• an aryl or arylalkyl radical, the aryl group containing 6 carbon atoms and the alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms;the aryl radical optionally being substituted with one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted and/or substituted with at least one heteroatom and/or group comprising at least one heteroatom and/or substituted with at least one halogen atom;• R1 and R2 may optionally be linked so as to form a heterocycle with the nitrogen atom and may comprise one or more other heteroatoms, the heterocycle optionally being substituted with at least one linear or branched alkyl radical preferably comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and optionally being interrupted and/or substituted with at least one heteroatom and/or group comprising at least one heteroatom and/or substituted with at least one halogen atom;• R1 or R2 may optionally be engaged in a heterocycle comprising the nitrogen atom and one of the carbon atoms of the phenyl group bearing said nitrogen atom;R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms;R5, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom;R6, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom;a halogen atom;a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted and/or interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or group bearing at least one heteroatom and/or substituted with at least one halogen atom;X represents: • a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms or an alkenyl radical comprising 2 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and/or substituted with at least one heteroatom and/or group comprising at least one heteroatom and/or substituted with at least one halogen atom;• a 5- or 6-membered heterocyclic radical optionally substituted with at least one linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with at least one heteroatom;with at least one linear or branched aminoalkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with at least one heteroatom;with at least one halogen atom;• a fused or non-fused aromatic or diaromatic radical, optionally separated by an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl radical(s) optionally being substituted with at least one halogen atom or with at least one alkyl radical comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted and/or interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or group bearing at least one heteroatom;• a dicarbonyl radical;• the group X possibly bearing one or more cationic charges;a being equal to 0 or 1;Y-, which may be identical or different, representing an organic or mineral anion;n being an integer at least equal to 2 and at most equal to the number of cationic charges present in the fluorescent compound, the composition not comprising, as fluorescent agent, 2-[2-(4-dialkylamino)phenylethenyl]-1-alkylpyridinium in which the alkyl radical of the pyridinium nucleus represents a methyl or ethyl radical, that of the benzene nucleus represents a methyl radical and in which the counterion is a halide;and at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines and imidazolium derivatives and/or at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkylpyrrolidones, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty alcohol ethers, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty acid esters of monoalcohols and fatty acid esters of polyols,in the absence of oxidation dyes and of oxidizing agents. Zusammensetzung, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie in einem kosmetisch unbedenklichen Medium mindestens einen in dem Medium löslichen Fluoreszenzfarbstoff umfasst, der aus der Gruppe bestehend aus den Farbstoffen der folgenden Strukturen ausgewählt ist: worin: R1 und R2 gleich oder verschieden sind und für: • ein Wasserstoffatom;• einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom und/oder mindestens eine Gruppe mit mindestens einem Heteroatom unterbrochen und/oder substituiert ist und/oder durch mindestens ein Halogenatom substituiert ist;• einen Aryl- oder Arylalkylrest, wobei die Arylgruppe 6 Kohlenstoffatome aufweist und der Alkylrest 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatome aufweist;wobei der Arylrest gegebenenfalls durch einen oder mehrere lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, die gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom und/oder mindestens eine Gruppe mit mindestens einem Heteroatom unterbrochen und/oder substituiert sind, und/oder durch mindestens ein Halogenatom substituiert ist;stehen;• R1 und R2 gegebenenfalls zu einem Heterocyclus mit dem Stickstoff, der ein oder mehrere andere Heteroatome enthalten kann, verbunden sind, wobei der Heterocyclus gegebenenfalls durch mindestens einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom und/oder mindestens eine Gruppe mit mindestens einem Heteroatom unterbrochen und/oder substituiert ist, und/oder durch mindestens ein Halogenatom substituiert ist;• R1 oder R2 gegebenenfalls an einem Heterocyclus beteiligt sein kann, der das Stickstoffatom und eines der Kohlenstoffatome der das Stickstoffatom tragenden Phenylgruppe umfasst;R3 und R4 gleich oder verschieden sind und für ein Wasserstoffatom oder einen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen stehen;die Reste R5 gleich oder verschieden sind und für ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Halogenatom oder einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom unterbrochen ist, stehen;die Reste R6 gleich oder verschieden sind und für ein Wasserstoffatom;ein Halogenatom oder einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom und/oder mindestens eine Gruppe mit mindestens einem Heteroatom unterbrochen und/oder substituiert ist und/oder durch mindestens ein Halogenatom substituiert ist, stehen;X für: • einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen oder Alkenylrest mit 2 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom und/oder mindestens eine Gruppe mit mindestens einem Heteroatom unterbrochen und/oder substituiert ist und/oder durch mindestens ein Halogenatom substituiert ist;• einen 5- oder 6-gliedrigen heterocyclischen Rest, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom substituiert ist;durch mindestens einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylaminorest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom substituiert ist;durch mindestens ein Halogenatom substituiert ist;• einen gegebenenfalls anellierten aromatischen oder diaromatischen Rest, der gegebenenfalls durch einen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen abgetrennt ist, wobei der Arylrest oder die Arylreste gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Halogenatom oder durch mindestens einen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls durch mindestens ein Heteroatom und/oder mindestens eine Gruppe mit mindestens einem Heteroatom substituiert und/oder unterbrochen ist, substituiert sind;• einen Dicarbonylreststeht;• wobei die Gruppe X eine oder mehrere kationische Ladungen tragen kann;a gleich 0 oder 1 ist;die Reste Y- gleich oder verschieden sind und für ein organisches oder anorganisches Anion stehen;wobei n für eine ganze Zahl mit einem Wert von mindestens 2 und höchstens gleich der Zahl der in der Fluoreszenzverbindung vorliegenden kationischen Ladungen steht;wobei die Zusammensetzung nicht 2-[2-(4-Dialkylamino)phenylethenyl]-1-alkyl-pyridinium, worin der Alkylrest des Pyridiniumkerns für einen Methyl- oder Ethylrest steht, der Alkylrest des Benzolkerns für einen Methylrest steht und es sich bei dem Gegenion um ein Halogenid handelt, als fluoreszierendes Mittel umfasst;undmindestens ein amphoteres Tensid, ausgewählt aus Betainen und Imidazoliumderivaten, und/oder mindestens ein nichtionisches Tensid, ausgewählt aus Alkylpyrrolidonen, oxyalkylenierten oder glycerinierten Fettalkoholethern, Fettsäureestern von oxyalkylenierten oder glycerinierten Monoalkoholen und Fettsäureestern und Polyolen, in Abwesenheit von Oxidationsfarbstoffen und Oxidationsmitteln umfasst.
- 21Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the optionally neutralized fluorescent dye is soluble in the medium of the composition to at least 0.001 g/l, more particularly at least 0.5 g/l, preferably at least 1 g/l and, according to an even more preferred embodiment, at least 5 g/l at a temperature of between 15 and 25°C. Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée en ce que le colorant fluorescent, éventuellement neutralisé, est soluble dans le milieu de la composition à au moins 0,001 g/l, plus particulièrement au moins 0,5 g/l, de préférence au moins 1 g/l et selon un mode de réalisation encore plus préféré, au moins 5 g/l à la température comprise entre 15 et 25°C. Zusammensetzung nach dem vorhergehenden Anspruch, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der gegebenenfalls neutralisierte Fluoreszenzfarbstoff in dem Medium der Zusammensetzung bei einer Temperatur zwischen 15 und 25°C in einer Menge von mindestens 0,001 g/l, spezieller mindestens 0,5 g/l, vorzugsweise mindestens 1 g/l und gemäß einer noch weiter bevorzugten Ausführungsform mindestens 5 g/l löslich ist.
- 22Composition according to Claim 20, characterized in that the fluorescent dye is a dye in the orange range. Composition selon la revendication 20, caractérisée en ce que le colorant fluorescent est un colorant dans la gamme des orangés. Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 20, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es sich bei dem Fluoreszenzfarbstoff um einen Farbstoff im Orangebereich handelt.
- 23Composition according to either of Claims 20 and 21, characterized in that the fluorescent dye leads to a reflectance maximum that is in the wavelength range from 500 to 650 nanometres and preferably in the wavelength range from 550 to 620 nanometres. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 20 à 21, caractérisée en ce que le colorant fluorescent conduit à un maximum de réflectance se situant dans la gamme de longueur d'onde allant de 500 à 650 nanomètres, et de préférence dans la gamme de longueur d'onde allant de 550 à 620 nanomètres. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 20 bis 21, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Fluoreszenzfarbstoff zu einem Remissionsmaximum führt, das im Wellenlängenbereich von 500 bis 650 Nanometer und vorzugsweise im Wellenlängenbereich von 550 bis 620 Nanometer liegt.
- 24Composition according to one of Claims 20 to 23, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido (C1-C8)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido (C1-C8)alkylsulfobetaines and sulfobetaines, or mixtures thereof. Composition selon l'une des revendications 20 à 23, caractérisée en ce que les tensioactifs amphotères de type bétaïne sont choisis parmi les alkyl(C8-C20)bétaines, les alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C1-C8)bétaïnes, les alkyl(C8-C20) amidoalkyl(C1-C8)sulfobétaines, les sulfobétaïnes ou leurs mélanges. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 20 bis 23, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die amphoteren Tenside vom Betain-Typ aus (C8-C20) Alkylbetainen, (C8-C20)Alkylamido (C1-C8)alkylbetainen, (C8-C20)Alkylamido(C1-C8) alkylsulfobetainen, Sulfobetainen oder Mischungen davon ausgewählt sind.
- 25Composition according to one of Claims 20 to 23, characterized in that the imidazolium derivatives are chosen from amphocarboxyglycinates and amphocarboxypropionates, or mixtures thereof. Composition selon l'une des revendications 20 à 23, caractérisée en ce que les dérivés d'imidazolium sont choisis parmi les amphocarboxyglycinates et les amphocarboxypropionates ou leurs mélanges. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 20 bis 23, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Imidazoliumderivate aus Amphocarboxyglycinaten, Amphocarboxypropionaten oder Mischungen davon ausgewählt sind.
- 26Composition according to one of Claims 20 to 24, characterized in that the nonionic alkylpyrrolidones are (C1-C30)alkylpyrrolidones. Composition selon l'une des revendications 20 à 24, caractérisée en ce que les alkylpyrrolidones non ioniques sont des alkyl(C1-C30)pyrrolidones. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 20 bis 24, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es sich bei den nichtionischen Alkylpyrrolidonen um (C1-C30)Alkyl-pyrrolidone handelt.
- 27Composition according to one of Claims 20 to 25, characterized in that the oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty alcohol ethers are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated or glycerolated, optionally hydroxylated fatty alcohols, with a chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Composition selon l'une des revendications 20 à 25, caractérisée en ce que les éthers d'alcools gras oxyalkylénés ou glycérolés sont choisis parmi les alcools gras éventuellement hydroxylés linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés éthoxylés et/ou propoxylés ou glycérolés, ayant une chaîne comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 20 bis 25, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die oxyalkylenierten oder glycerinierten Fettalkoholether aus ethoxylierten und/oder propoxylierten oder glycerinierten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten, gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten Fettalkoholen mit einer Kette mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ausgewählt sind.
- 28Composition according to one of Claims 20 to 26, characterized in that the oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty acid esters of monoalcohols are chosen from esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids with a chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated or glycerolated monoalcohol with a chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Composition selon l'une des revendications 20 à 26, caractérisée en ce que les esters d'acides gras et de monoalcools oxyalkylénés ou glycérolés sont choisis parmi les esters d'acides carboxyliques, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés ayant une chaîne comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone et d'un monoalcool ayant une chaîne comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, linéaire ou ramifiée, saturée ou insaturée éthoxylée et/ou propoxylée ou glycérolée. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 20 bis 26, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Fettsäureester von oxyalkylenierten oder glycerinierten Monoalkoholen aus Estern von gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Carbonsäuren mit einer Kette mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen und einem ethoxylierten und/oder propoxylierten oder glycerinierten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Monoalkohol mit einer Kette mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ausgewählt sind.
- 29Composition according to one of Claims 20 to 27, characterized in that the polyol(s) are chosen from glycerol, sorbitol, glucose, methylglucose, sorbitol anhydride, a polyethylene glycol or a polypropylene glycol, or mixtures thereof. Composition selon l'une des revendications 20 à 27, caractérisée en ce que le ou les polyols sont choisis parmi la glycérine, le sorbitol, le glucose, le méthyl glucose, l'anhydride de sorbitol, un polyéthylène glycol ou un polypropylène glycol, ou leurs mélanges. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 20 bis 27, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das bzw. die Polyole aus Glycerin, Sorbitol, Glucose, Methylglucose, Sorbitolanhydrid, einem Polyethylenglykol oder einem Polypropylenglykol oder Mischungen davon ausgewählt sind.
- 30Composition according to any one of Claims 20 to 28, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant(s) and/or the nonionic surfactants represent from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 20 à 28, caractérisée en ce que le ou les tensioactifs amphotères et/ou les tensioactifs non ioniques représentent de 0,01 à 30 % en poids, plus particulièrement de 0,1 à 20 % en poids, et de préférence de 0,2 à 10% en poids, du poids total de la composition. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 20 bis 28, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das oder die amphoteren Tenside und/oder die nichtionischen Tenside 0,01 bis 30 Gew.-%, spezieller 0,1 bis 20 Gew.-% und vorzugsweise 0,2 bis 10 Gew.-% des Gesamtgewichts der Zusammensetzung ausmachen.
- 31Composition according to any one of Claims 20 to 29, characterized in that the fluorescent dye(s) are present in a weight concentration ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 20 à 29, caractérisée en ce que le ou les colorants fluorescents sont présents dans une concentration pondérale allant de 0,01 à 20% en poids, plus particulièrement de 0,05 a 10% en poids, de préférence de 0,1 à 5% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 20 bis 29, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der bzw. die Fluoreszenzfarbstoffe in einer Gewichtskonzentration von 0,01 bis 20 Gew.-%, spezieller 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-% und vorzugsweise 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, vorliegen.
- 32Composition according to any one of Claims 20 to 30, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional non-fluorescent direct dye of nonionic, cationic or anionic nature. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 20 à 30, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend au moins un colorant direct additionnel non fluorescent de nature non ionique, cationique ou anionique. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 20 bis 30, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie ferner mindestens einen zusätzlichen nichtfluoreszierenden Direktfarbstoff nichtionischer, kationischer oder anionischer Natur umfasst.
- 33Composition according to Claim 31, characterized in that the additional direct dyes are chosen from nitrobenzene dyes, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, naphthoquinone dyes, benzoquinone dyes, phenothiazine dyes, indigoid, xanthene, phenanthridine or phthalocyanine dyes, and also triarylmethane-based dyes, alone or as mixtures. Composition selon la revendication 31, caractérisée en ce que les colorants directs additionnels sont choisis parmi les colorants benzéniques nitrés, les colorants azoïques, anthraquinoniques, naphtoquinoniques, benzoquinoniques, phénotiaziniques, les colorants indigoïdes xanthéniques, phénanthridiniques, phtalocyanines, ainsi que les colorants dérivés du triarylméthane, seuls ou en mélanges. Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 31, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die zusätzlichen Direktfarbstoffe aus Nitrobenzol-Farbstoffen, Azo-Farbstoffen, Anthrachinon-Farbstoffen, Naphthochinon-Farbstoffen, Benzochinon-Farbstoffen, Phenotiazin-Farbstoffen, Indigoid-Farbstoffen, Xanthen-Farbstoffen, Phenanthridin-Farbstoffen, Phthalocyanin-Farbstoffen sowie von Triarylmethan abgeleiteten Farbstoffen allein oder Mischungen davon ausgewählt sind.
- 34Composition according to either of Claims 31 and 32, characterized in that the additional direct dye(s) represent from 0.0005% to 12% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 31 ou 32, caractérisée en ce que le ou les colorants directs additionnels représentent de 0,0005 à 12 % en poids, de préférence de 0,005 à 6 % en poids, du poids total de la composition. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 31 oder 32, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der bzw. die zusätzlichen Direktfarbstoffe 0,0005 bis 12 Gew.-% und vorzugsweise 0,005 bis 6 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, ausmachen.
- 35Composition according to any one of Claims 20 to 33, characterized in that it is in the form of a lightening and colouring shampoo. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 20 à 33, caractérisée en ce qu'elle se présente sous la forme d'un shampooing éclaircissant et colorant. Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 20 bis 33, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie in Form eines aufhellenden Färbeshampoos vorliegt.
- 36Process for the dyeing with a lightening effect of artificially coloured or pigmented human keratin fibres, characterized in that the following steps are performed:a) a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 20 to 33 and 35 is applied to said fibres, for a time that is sufficient to develop the desired colouring and lightening,b) the fibres are optionally rinsed,c) the fibres are optionally washed with shampoo and rinsed,d) the fibres are dried or left to dry, in the absence of oxidation dyes and of oxidizing agents. Procédé pour colorer avec un effet éclaircissant les fibres kératiniques humaines pigmentées ou colorées artificiellement, caractérisé en ce que l'on met en œuvre les étapes suivantes : a) on applique sur lesdites fibres une composition telle que définie selon l'une quelconque des revendications 20 à 33 et 35, pendant un temps suffisant pour développer la coloration et l'éclaircissement désirés,b) on rince éventuellement les fibres,c) éventuellement on lave au shampooing et on rince les fibres,d) on sèche ou on laisse sécher les fibres,. en l'absence de colorants d'oxydation et d'agents oxydants. Verfahren zum aufhellend wirkenden Färben von pigmentierten oder künstlich gefärbten menschlichen Keratinfasern, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die folgenden Schritte durchgeführt werden: a) eine Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 20 bis 33 und 35 wird über einen zur Entwicklung der gewünschten Färbung und Aufhellung ausreichenden Zeitraum auf die Fasern aufgebracht,b) die Fasern werden gegebenenfalls gespült,c) die Fasern werden gegebenenfalls mit Shampoo gewaschen und gespült,d) die Fasern werden getrocknet oder trocknen gelassen, in Abwesenheit von Oxidationsfarbstoffen und Oxidationsmitteln.
Independent claims36
110 paragraphs in 1 section, as filed
The invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye and at least one particular amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactant for coloring with a lightening effect pigmented or artificially colored human keratin fibres, new compositions and processes using these compositions, in the absence of oxidation dyes and oxidizing agents.
In the hair sector, there are mainly two main types of hair coloring. The first is semi-permanent coloring, or direct coloring, which uses dyes capable of bringing to the natural coloring of the hair, a more or less marked modification resistant to several shampoos. These dyes are called direct dyes and can be used in two different ways. The dyes can be produced by direct application to the keratin fibers of the composition containing the direct dye(s) or by applying a mixture prepared extemporaneously of a composition containing the direct dye(s) with a composition containing an oxidizing bleaching agent which is preferably hydrogen peroxide. This is called lightening direct coloring. The second is permanent coloring or oxidation coloring. This is carried out with precursors of so-called "oxidation" dyes, which are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, once mixed with oxidizing products, at the time of use, can give rise through an oxidative condensation process to colored compounds and dyes. It is often necessary to associate with oxidation bases and couplers, one or more direct dyes in order to neutralize or reduce shades with too many red, orange or golden reflections, or on the contrary to accentuate these red, orange or golden reflections. . Among the direct dyes available, the nitrobenzene direct dyes are not sufficiently powerful, the indoamines, the quinone dyes as well as the natural dyes have a low affinity for keratin fibers and therefore lead to colorations which are not resistant enough. vis-à-vis the various treatments that the fibers may undergo, and in particular vis-à-vis shampoos.
Further, there is a need to obtain an effect of lightening human keratin fibers. This lightening is conventionally obtained by a process of bleaching the melanins of the hair by an oxidizing system, generally consisting of hydrogen peroxide combined or not with persalts. This bleaching system has the drawback of degrading the keratin fibers and of altering their cosmetic properties.
The present invention therefore relates to compositions making it possible to provide solutions to the problems mentioned above, that is to say having a good dyeing affinity for keratin fibers, good tenacity properties with respect to external agents , and in particular vis-à-vis shampoos, and which also make it possible to obtain lightening without altering the fiber.
It has therefore been found, unexpectedly and surprisingly, that the use of fluorescent dyes, in particular those in the orange range, when brought into the presence of particular surfactants makes it possible to achieve these objectives.
Fluorescent dyes such as Acid Red 94 and Acid Red 51 are known to destroy or inactivate proteins and microorganisms. These fluorescent dyes are combined with surfactants (<patcit id="pcit0001" dnum="WO9402022A"><text>WO 94/02022</text></patcit>).
Other fluorescent dyes "methylene blue", "Auramine COO" or "Safranin" have been used in combination with betaine-type surfactants to color light hair or dark hair "tone on tone" (<patcit id="pcit0002" dnum="GB986712A"><text>UK 986 712</text></patcit> and<patcit id="pcit0003" dnum="US2763269A"><text>US 2,763,269</text></patcit>). Another document mentions the use of a mixture of direct dyes which may contain fluorescent dyes and surfactants to color gray or white hair dark (<patcit id="pcit0004" dnum="JP05246831B"><text>JP 05 246 831</text></patcit>).
A first subject of the present invention is therefore the use of a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent dye in the range of oranges soluble in the medium chosen from fluorescent dyes belonging to the following families: naphthalimides; cationic or non-cationic coumarins; xanthenodiquinolizines; azaxanthenes; naphtholactams, azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines; monocationic or polycationic fluorescent dyes of the azo, azomethine or methin type and at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines and imidazolium derivatives and/or at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkylpyrrolidones, fatty alcohol ethers oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, fatty acid esters of oxyalkylenated or glycerolated monoalcohols, for coloring with a lightening effect pigmented or artificially colored human keratin fibres, in the absence of oxidation dyes and oxidizing agents.
A second object of the invention relates to a composition as claimed in claim 20.
A third object of the invention relates to a method for coloring with a lightening effect pigmented or artificially colored human keratin fibers as claimed in claim 36.
The compositions used according to the invention allow in particular a better diffusion of the fluorescent dye in pigmented or artificially colored human keratin fibers, which results in an increased fluorescence effect, in a superior lightening effect and therefore also in a luminosity superior to what is obtained with the fluorescent dye used alone. There is also a better tenacity of the result vis-à-vis washing or shampooing.
But other characteristics and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.
Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of the ranges of values which are given in the description are included in these ranges.
As indicated above, the subject of the present invention is the use of a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent dye in the range of oranges soluble in the medium chosen from fluorescent dyes belonging to the families following: naphthalimides; cationic or non-cationic coumarins; xanthenodiquinolizines; azaxanthenes; naphtholactams, azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines; monocationic or polycationic fluorescent dyes of the azo, azomethine or methin type and at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines and imidazolium derivatives and/or at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkylpyrrolidones, fatty alcohol ethers oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, fatty acid esters of oxyalkylenated or glycerolated monoalcohols, for coloring with a lightening effect pigmented or artificially colored human keratin fibres, in the absence of oxidation dyes and oxidizing agents.
The amphoteric surfactants of betaine type suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from alkyl (C<sub>8</sub>-VS<sub>20</sub>)betaines, (C<sub>8</sub>-VS<sub>20</sub>)amidoalkyl (C<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>8</sub>)betaines, (C<sub>8</sub>-VS<sub>20</sub>)amidoalkyl(C<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>8</sub>)sulfobetaines, and sulfobetaines. Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants of betaine type suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from alkyl (C<sub>8</sub>-VS<sub>20</sub>)betaines, (C<sub>8</sub>-VS<sub>20</sub>)amidoalkyl(C<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>8</sub>)sulfobetaines, and sulfobetaines.
By way of examples, mention may be made in particular of the compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, under the names Coco-betaïne, Lauryl-betaïne, Cetyl-betaïne, Coco/oleamidopropyl-betaïne Cocamidopropyl-betaïne, Palmitamidopropyl-betaïne , Stearamidopropyl-betaine Cocamidoethyl-betaine, Cocamido propyl-hydroxy-sultaine, Oleamidopropyl-hydroxysultaine Coco-hydroxy-sultaine, Lauryl-hydroxy-sultaine, Coco-sultaine, alone or in mixtures.
As regards the imidazolium derivatives, the latter are advantageously chosen from amphocarboxyglycinates and amphocarboxypropionates. By way of example, mention may be made of the compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caproamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloampho diacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caproamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroampho dipropionic acid, Cocoamphodipropionic acid, singly or in mixtures.
Among the nonionic surfactants capable of being used in the composition according to the invention, there are in particular nonionic alkylpyrrolidones. These surfactants are preferably (C1-C30)alkylpyrrolidones. By way of examples, mention may be made of the compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, under the names Lauryl pyrrolidone, Caprylyl pyrrolidone, Methyl pyrrolidone, alone or in mixtures.
The oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty alcohol ethers are more particularly chosen from fatty alcohols optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated and/or glycerolated, having a fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. , the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 30. It can be mono or diethers. Examples include the compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, under the names Oleyl glyceryl ether, Oleth-2, Oleth-8, Oleth-106, Steareth-20, Laureth-10, PEG- 4 ditallow ether, PPG-Beneth-15, PPG-8 Ceteth-1, PPG-50 Cetyl ether, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-12, PPG-2-Isodeceth-9,PPG-30 Isocethylether, PPG-4 Laurylether,PPG -10 Oleylether. Preferably, the fatty alcohol ethers are chosen from optionally hydroxylated linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated ethoxylated and propoxylated, or propoxylated, and/or glycerolated fatty alcohols.
The esters of fatty acids and oxyalkylenated or glycerolated monoalcohols which can be used in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids, having a fatty chain comprising for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In the case where it is a fatty acid ester and monoalcohol, the latter advantageously has a fatty chain comprising for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated or glycerolated. Furthermore, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups of this monoalcohol can be between 1 and 200 and the number of glycerol groups can be between 1 and 30.
As examples of these esters, mention may be made of the compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, under the names Steareth-12 stearate, Steareth-5 stearate.
The content of amphoteric surfactants and/or of nonionic surfactants as they have just been defined represents more advantageously from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more particularly from 0.1 to 20% by weight and from preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
The composition used in the context of the invention also comprises one or more fluorescent dyes.
By fluorescent dye is meant within the meaning of the present invention a dye which is a molecule which colors by itself and therefore absorbs light of the visible spectrum and possibly of the ultraviolet (wavelengths ranging from 360 to 760 nanometers) but which, unlike a conventional dye, transforms the absorbed energy into fluorescent light of longer wavelength emitted in the visible part of the spectrum.
The fluorescent dye present in the composition according to the invention is to be distinguished from an optical brightening agent. Optical brightening agents generally called optical brighteners, or "brighteners", or "fluorescent brighteners", or "fluorescent brightening agents", or "fluorescent whitening agents", or "whiteners", or "fluorescent whiteners" in Anglo-Saxon terminology , are colorless transparent compounds. These compounds do not color because they do not absorb visible light, but only ultraviolet light (wavelengths ranging from 200 to 400 nanometers). They transform the absorbed energy into fluorescent light of longer wavelength emitted in the visible part of the spectrum; the impression of color is then only generated by purely fluorescent light, predominantly blue (wavelengths ranging from 400 to 500 nanometers).
Finally, the fluorescent dye used in the composition is soluble in the medium of the composition. It should be noted that the fluorescent dye is different in this from a fluorescent pigment which itself is not soluble in the medium of the composition.
More particularly, the fluorescent dye used in the context of the present invention, optionally neutralized, is soluble in the medium of the composition at at least 0.001 g/l, more particularly at least 0.5 g/l, preferably at least 1 g/l and according to an even more preferred embodiment, at least 5 g/l at a temperature between 15 and 25°C.
The fluorescent dyes used according to the present invention are dyes in the orange range.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fluorescent dyes of the invention lead to a reflectance maximum lying in the wavelength range from 500 to 650 nanometers, and preferably in the length range d wave ranging from 550 to 620 nanometers
Some of the fluorescent dyes according to the present invention are compounds known per se.
As examples of fluorescent dyes used, mention may be made of fluorescent dyes belonging to the following families: naphthalimides; cationic or non-cationic coumarins; xanthenodiquinolizines (such as in particular sulforhodamines); azaxanthenes; naphtholactams; azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines; polycationic fluorescent dyes of the azo, azomethine or methine type, alone or in mixtures, preferably from the following families: naphthalimides; cationic or non-cationic coumarins; azaxanthenes; naphtholactams; azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines; polycationic fluorescent dyes of the azo, azomethine or methine type, alone or in mixtures.
Among the soluble fluorescent dyes of this type, mention may be made in particular of:<ul id="ul0001" list-style="bullet" compact="compact"><li>Yellow Brilliant B6GL marketed by the company SANDOZ and of structure<chemistry id="chem0001" num="0001"><img file="EP1464322B2_D0001.tif" /></chemistry></li><li>Basic Yellow 2, or Auramine O marketed by the companies PROLABO, ALDRICH or CARLO ERBA and of the following structure:<chemistry id="chem0002" num="0002"><img file="EP1464322B2_D0002.tif" /></chemistry>4,4'-(imidocarbonyl)bis(N,N-dimethylaniline) monohydrochloride - CAS number 2465-27-2.</li></ul>
Mention may also be made of the compounds of the following formula:<chemistry id="chem0003" num="0003"><img file="EP1464322B2_D0003.tif" /></chemistry>
In this formula, R<sub>1</sub>, R<sub>2</sub>, identical or different, represent:<ul id="ul0002" list-style="bullet" compact="compact"><li>a hydrogen atom;</li><li>an alkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and/or substituted by at least one heteroatom and/or group comprising at least one heteroatom and/or substituted by at least one halogen atom;</li><li>an aryl or arylalkyl radical, the aryl group having 6 carbon atoms and the alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; the aryl radical being optionally substituted by one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted and/or substituted by at least one heteroatom and/or group comprising at least one heteroatom and/or substituted by at least one halogen atom;</li><li>R<sub>1</sub> and R<sub>2</sub> may optionally be linked in such a way as to form a heterocycle with the nitrogen atom and comprise one or more other heteroatoms, the heterocycle being optionally substituted by at least one linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably comprising from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon and being optionally interrupted and/or substituted by at least one heteroatom and/or group comprising at least one heteroatom and/or substituted by at least one halogen atom;</li><li>R<sub>1</sub> or R<sub>2</sub> may optionally be engaged in a heterocycle comprising the nitrogen atom and one of the carbon atoms of the phenyl group bearing said nitrogen atom.</li></ul>
Remember that the terms heteroatoms represent an oxygen or nitrogen atom. Among the groups bearing such atoms, mention may be made, inter alia, of hydroxyl, alkoxy, carbonyl, amino, ammonium, amido (-N-CO-), carboxyl (-O-CO- or -CO-O-) groups. As regards the alkenyl groups, the latter comprise one or more unsaturated carbon-carbon bonds (-C=C-), and preferably a single carbon-carbon double bond.
In this general formula, the radicals R<sub>1</sub> and R<sub>2</sub>, identical or not, more particularly represent:<ul id="ul0003" list-style="bullet" compact="compact"><li>a hydrogen atom;</li><li>an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom or optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl, amino, ammonium radical, a chlorine or fluorine atom;</li><li>a benzyl or phenyl radical, optionally substituted by an alkyl or alkoxy radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably 1 or 2 carbon atoms;</li><li>with the nitrogen atom, a heterocyclic radical of the pyrrolo, pyrrolidino, imidazolino, imidazolo, imidazolium, pyrazolino, piperazino, morpholino, morpholo, pyrazolo, triazolo type, optionally substituted by at least one linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted and/or substituted by a nitrogen and/or oxygen atom and/or group bearing a nitrogen and/or oxygen atom.</li></ul>
As regards the aforementioned amino or ammonium radicals, the radicals carried by the nitrogen atom may or may not be identical and represent more particularly a hydrogen atom, a C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>10</sub>, preferably in C<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>4</sub>, an arylalkyl radical in which, more specifically, the aryl radical comprises 6 carbon atoms and the alkyl radical 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the radicals R<sub>1</sub> and R<sub>2</sub>, which may or may not be identical, represent a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub> ; a C alkyl radical<sub>2</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub> substituted by a hydroxyl radical; a C alkyl radical<sub>2</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub> bearing an amino or ammonium group; a C chloroalkyl radical<sub>2</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub> ; a C alkyl radical<sub>2</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub> interrupted by an oxygen atom or group carrying one (for example ester); an aromatic radical such as phenyl, benzyl, 4-methylphenyl; a heterocyclic radical such as the pyrrolo, pyrrolidino, imidazolo, imidazolino, imidazolium, piperazino, morpholo, morphollino, pyrazolo, triazolo radicals, optionally substituted by at least one C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub> or aromatic.
Preferably, the radicals R<sub>1</sub> and R<sub>2</sub>, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub> such as methyl, ethyl, n-butyl, n-propyl radicals; 2-hydroxyethyl; an alkyltrimethylammonium or alkyltriethylammonium radical, the alkyl radical being linear in C<sub>2</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub> ; a (di)alkylmethylamino or (di)alkylethylamino radical, the alkyl radical being linear in C<sub>2</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub> ; - CH<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>Cl; -(CH2)<sub>not</sub>-OCH<sub>3</sub> or -(CH<sub>2</sub>)<sub>not</sub>-OCH<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>3</sub> with n integer ranging from 2 to 6; -CH<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>-OCOCH<sub>3</sub> ; -CH<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>COOCH<sub>3</sub>. Preferably the radicals R<sub>1</sub> and R<sub>2</sub>, identical or not, and preferably identical, represent a methyl radical, an ethyl radical.
R radicals<sub>1</sub> and R<sub>2</sub>, which are identical or different, may also represent a heterocyclic radical of the pyrrolidino, 3-amino pyrrolidino, 3-(dimethyl)amino pyrrolidino, 3-(trimethyl)amino pyrrolidino, 2,5-dimethylpyrrolo, 1H-imidazole, 4-methyl piperazino, 4-benzyl piperazino, morpholo, 3,5-(ter-butyl)-1H-pyrazolo, 1H-pyrazolo, 1H-1,2,4-triazolo.
R radicals<sub>1</sub> and R<sub>2</sub>, which are identical or different, may also represent being linked so as to form a heterocycle of formulas (I) and (II) below:<chemistry id="chem0004" num="0004"><img file="EP1464322B2_D0004.tif" /></chemistry>in which R' represents a hydrogen atom, a C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>3</sub>,-CH<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>OH, -CH<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>OCH<sub>3</sub>.
According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, R<sub>5</sub>, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a fluorine or chlorine atom, a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted by an oxygen or nitrogen atom. It is specified that the substituent R<sub>5</sub>, if it is different from hydrogen, is advantageously in position(s) 3 and/or 5 with respect to the carbon of the cycle carrying the nitrogen substituted by the radicals R<sub>1</sub> and R<sub>2</sub>, and preferably in position 3 with respect to this carbon. Advantageously, the radicals R<sub>5</sub>, which may or may not be identical, represent a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>4</sub> ; -GOLD<sub>51</sub> with R<sub>51</sub> representing a linear C-alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>4</sub> ; -R<sub>52</sub>-O-CH<sub>3</sub> with R<sub>52</sub> representing a linear C-alkyl radical<sub>2</sub>-VS<sub>3</sub> ; -R<sub>53</sub> - N (R<sub>54</sub>)<sub>2</sub> in which R<sub>53</sub> represents a linear C-alkyl radical<sub>2</sub>-VS<sub>3</sub>, R<sub>54</sub>, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical. Preferably R<sub>5</sub>, identical or not, represent hydrogen, a methyl, a methoxy, and preferably, R<sub>5</sub> represents a hydrogen atom.
According to a particular embodiment, the radicals R<sub>6</sub>, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>4</sub> ; -X with X representing a chlorine, bromine or fluorine atom; -R<sub>61</sub>-GOLD<sub>62</sub> with R<sub>61</sub> representing a linear C-alkyl radical<sub>2</sub>-VS<sub>3</sub> and R<sub>62</sub> represents the methyl radical; -R<sub>63</sub>-N(R<sub>64</sub>)<sub>2</sub> with R<sub>63</sub> representing a linear C-alkyl radical<sub>2</sub>-VS<sub>3</sub>, R<sub>64</sub>, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, -N(R<sub>65</sub>)<sub>2</sub> in which R<sub>65</sub>, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C linear alkyl radical<sub>2</sub>-VS<sub>3</sub> ; -NHCO R<sub>66</sub> with R<sub>66</sub> representing a C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>2</sub>, a C chloroalkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>2</sub>, a radical -R<sub>67</sub>-NH<sub>2</sub> or-R<sub>67</sub>-NH(CH<sub>3</sub>) or -R<sub>67</sub>-N(CH<sub>3</sub>)<sub>2</sub> or -R<sub>67</sub>-NOT<sup>+</sup>(CH<sub>3</sub>)<sub>3</sub> or -R<sub>67</sub>-NOT<sup>+</sup>(CH<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>3</sub>)<sub>3</sub> with R<sub>67</sub> representing a C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>2</sub>. It is specified that the substituent R<sub>6</sub>, if it is different from hydrogen, is preferably in position 2 and/or 4 with respect to the nitrogen atom of the pyridinium ring, and preferably in position 4 with respect to this nitrogen atom.
More particularly these radicals R<sub>6</sub>, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl radical, and preferably, R<sub>6</sub> represents a hydrogen atom.
With regard to radicals R<sub>3</sub>, R<sub>4</sub>, the latter, identical or not, advantageously represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more especially a methyl radical. Preferably, R<sub>3</sub> and R<sub>4</sub> each represents a hydrogen atom.
As indicated above, X represents:<ul id="ul0004" list-style="bullet" compact="compact"><li>a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, or alkenyl comprising 2 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and/or substituted by at least one heteroatom, by at least one group carrying at least one heteroatom and / or by at least one halogen atom;</li><li>a heterocyclic radical comprising 5 or 6 members, optionally substituted by at least one linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, by at least one aminoalkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by at least one heteroatom; by at least one halogen atom;</li><li>an aromatic or diaromatic radical, condensed or not, separated or not by an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl radical(s) being optionally substituted by at least one halogen atom or by at least one alkyl radical comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted and/or interrupted by at least one heteroatom and/or group comprising at least one heteroatom;</li><li>a dicarbonyl radical.</li></ul>In addition, it is indicated that the X group can bear one or more cationic charges.
Thus, X can represent an alkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, or alkenyl comprising 2 to 14 carbon atoms, and can be substituted and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and/or nitrogen, and/or by one or more groups bearing at least one heteroatom, and/or by a fluorine or chlorine atom. Among the groups of this type, mention may very particularly be made of hydroxyl, alkoxy (with in particular a radical R of C alkyl type<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>4</sub>), amino, ammonium, amido, carbonyl, carboxyl (-COO-, -O-CO-) with in particular a radical of the alkyloxy type. Note that the nitrogen atom, if present, may or may not be in a quaternized form. In this case, the one or two other radicals carried by the quaternized or non-quaternized nitrogen atom are identical or not and can be a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in C<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>4</sub>, preferably methyl.
According to another variant, the group X represents a heterocyclic radical comprising 5 or 6 members, of the imidazolo, pyrazolo, triazino, pyridino type, optionally substituted by at least one linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, more particularly 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; by at least one aminoalkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group comprising at least one heteroatom (preferably a hydroxyl radical), or by a halogen atom. Note that the amino group is preferably linked to the heterocycle.
According to another possibility, the group X represents an aromatic radical (preferably comprising 6 carbon atoms) or condensed diaromatic radical or not (comprising in particular from 10 to 12 carbon atoms), separated or not by an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl radical(s) being optionally substituted by at least at least one halogen atom and/or by at least one alkyl radical comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one oxygen and/or nitrogen atom, and/or group comprising at least one heteroatom (such as a carbonyl, carboxyl, amido, amino or ammonium radical). It should be noted that the aromatic radical, preferably a phenyl radical, is linked to the CR groups<sub>3</sub>R<sub>4</sub> via bonds at the 1,2 positions; 1,3 or 1,4, preferably in positions 1,3 and 1,4. If the phenyl radical connected via bonds in the 1,4 positions carries one or two substituents, this or these latter are preferably located in the 1,4 position with respect to one of the CR groups<sub>3</sub>R<sub>4</sub>. If the phenyl radical linked via bonds in the 1,3 positions carries one or two substituents, this or these latter are preferably located in the 1 and/or 3 position with respect to one of the CR groups<sub>3</sub>R<sub>4</sub>.
In the case where the radical is diaromatic, it is preferably non-condensed and comprises two phenyl radicals separated or not by a single bond (i.e. one carbon from each of the two rings) or by an alkyl radical, preferably of the CH type.<sub>2</sub> or C(CH<sub>3</sub>)<sub>2</sub>. Preferably, the aromatic radicals bear no substituent. It should be noted that said diaromatic radical is linked to the CR groups<sub>3</sub>R<sub>4</sub> via bonds at the 4,4' positions.
As examples of suitable X groups, mention may in particular be made of linear or branched alkyl radicals comprising 1 to 13 carbon atoms such as methylene, ethylene, propylene, isopropylene, n-butylene, pentylene, hexylene; 2-hydroxypropylene, 2-hydroxy n-butylene; C-alkylene radicals<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>13</sub>, substituted or interrupted by one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms, and/or groups carrying at least one heteroatom (hydroxyl, amino, ammonium, carbonyl, carboxyl, for example) such as -CH<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>OCH<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>-, 1,6-dideoxy-d-mannitol, -CH<sub>2</sub>NOT<sup>+</sup>(CH<sub>3</sub>)<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>-, -CH<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>NOT<sup>+</sup>(CH<sub>3</sub>)<sub>2</sub>-(CH<sub>2</sub>)<sub>6</sub>NOT<sup>+</sup>(CH<sub>3</sub>)<sub>2</sub>-CH<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>-, CO-CO-, 3,3-dimethylpentylene, 2-acetoxyethylene, butylene1,2,3,4 tetraol; -CH=CH-; aromatic or diaromatic radicals substituted by one or more alkyl radicals, by one or more groups bearing at least one heteroatom and/or by one or more halogen atoms, such as 1,4-phenylene, 1,3-phenylene , 1,2-phenylene, 2,6-fluorobenzene, 4,4'-biphenylene, 1,3-(5-methyl benzene), 1,2-bis(2-methoxy)benzene, bis (4-phenyl)methane, methyl 3,4 benzoate, 1,4-bis(amido methyl)phenyl; radicals of heterocyclic type such as pyridine, or derivative such as 2,6-bispyridine, imidazole, imidazolium, triazine.
X represents, according to a more particular embodiment of the invention, a linear or branched C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>13</sub> ; -CH<sub>2</sub>CH(OH)CH<sub>2</sub>-; -CH<sub>2</sub>CH(Cl)CH<sub>2</sub>-;-CH<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>-OCOCH<sub>2</sub>-; -CH<sub>2</sub>CH<sub>2</sub>COOCH<sub>2</sub>-; -Ra-O- Rb- with Ra representing a linear C-alkyl radical<sub>2</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub> and Rb represents a linear C-alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>2</sub> ; - Rc-N(Rd)-Re- with Rc representing a C alkyl radical<sub>2</sub>-VS<sub>9</sub>, Rd representing a hydrogen atom, a C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>2</sub> and Re representing a C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub> ; - Rf-N<sup>+</sup>(R<sub>g</sub>)<sub>2</sub>-Rh- with Rf representing a linear C-alkyl radical<sub>2</sub>-VS<sub>9</sub>, Rg, preferably identical, represent a C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>2</sub>, Rh represents a linear C-alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub> ; -CO-CO-.
X can also represent an imidazole radical, optionally substituted by at least one alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, more particularly 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4, and for example the divalent radicals of the following formula :<chemistry id="chem0005" num="0005"><img file="EP1464322B2_D0005.tif" /></chemistry>in which Ri and Rj, which may or may not be identical, represent a linear C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub>
X can likewise be chosen from the following divalent radicals derived from triazine:<chemistry id="chem0006" num="0006"><img file="EP1464322B2_D0006.tif" /></chemistry>
Alternatively, X may represent the following divalent aromatic radicals:<chemistry id="chem0007" num="0007"><img file="EP1464322B2_D0007.tif" /></chemistry>
In the general formula of these fluorescent compounds, Y<sup>-</sup> represents an organic or inorganic anion. If there are several anions Y<sup>-</sup>, these may or may not be identical.
Among the anions of mineral origin, mention may be made, without any intention of being limited thereto, of the anions originating from halogen atoms, such as chlorides, preferably, iodides, sulphates or bisulphates, nitrates, phosphates, hydrogen phosphates, dihydrogen phosphates, carbonates, bicarbonates. Among the anions of organic origin, mention may be made of the anions originating from the salts of mono- or polycarboxylic, sulphonic, sulfuric acids, saturated or not, aromatic or not, optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl radical, amino, or atoms of 'halogen. By way of nonlimiting examples, suitable are acetates, hydroxyacetates, aminoacetates, (tri)chloroacetates, benzoxyacetates, propionates and derivatives carrying a chlorine atom, fumarates, oxalates, acrylates, malonates, succinates, lactates, tartrates, glycollates citrates, benzoates and derivatives carrying a methyl or amino radical, alkyl sulphates, tosylates, benzene sulphonates, toluene sulphonates, etc. Preferably, the anion(s) Y, identical or not, are chosen from chlorine, sulphate, methosulphate, ethosulphate.
Finally, the integer number n is at least equal to 2 and at most equal to the number of cationic charges present in the fluorescent compound.
Preferably, the fluorescent compounds which have just been detailed are symmetrical compounds.
These compounds can be synthesized by reacting in a first step α-picoline with a reagent comprising two leaving groups which can be chosen from halogen atoms, preferably bromine, optionally chlorine, or groups of the type tolylsulphonyl or methylsulphonyl. This first step can take place in the presence of a solvent, although it is not mandatory, such as dimethylformamide, for example. The number of moles of α-picoline is generally close to 2 for one mole of reagent comprising the leaving groups. Further, the reaction is usually carried out under reflux of the reactant and/or solvent if present. The product resulting from this first step is then contacted with a corresponding aldehyde of the following formula:<chemistry id="chem0008" num="0008"><img file="EP1464322B2_D0008.tif" /></chemistry>in which R<sub>1</sub>, R<sub>2</sub> and R<sub>6</sub> have the same meanings as previously indicated. Again, the reaction can be carried out in the presence of a suitable solvent, preferably at reflux. It should be noted that the radicals R<sub>1</sub> and R<sub>2</sub> of the aldehyde may have the meaning indicated in the general formula detailed above. It is also possible to use an aldehyde for which said radicals represent hydrogen atoms and to carry out, in accordance with conventional methods, the substitution of these hydrogen atoms by appropriate radicals as described in the general formula once the second stage completed.
Reference may in particular be made to syntheses such as described in<patcit id="pcit0005" dnum="US4256458A"><text>US 4256458</text></patcit>.
It is specified that in accordance with a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise, as fluorescent dye, a compound comprising three condensed aromatic rings, one of which comprises an oxygen atom.
The fluorescent dye(s) of the present invention more usually represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.05 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetically acceptable medium generally consists of water or of a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent.
Among the suitable solvents, mention may more particularly be made of alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol such as, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol, or else polyols such as glycerol. Polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols, and mixtures of all these compounds, can also be used as solvent.
The solvents may be present in proportions generally ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the composition is generally between 3 and 12 approximately, and preferably between 5 and 11 approximately. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents.
Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.
Among the basifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and compounds of following formula (A):<chemistry id="chem0009" num="0009"><img file="EP1464322B2_D0009.tif" /></chemistry>in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub> ; R<sub>1</sub>, R<sub>2</sub>, R<sub>3</sub> and R<sub>4</sub>, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub> or C hydroxyalkyl<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>6</sub>.
The composition used in the invention may, according to a preferred embodiment, and in addition to the fluorescent dye(s), comprise one or more additional non-fluorescent direct dyes of nonionic, cationic or anionic nature. These additional direct dyes can for example be chosen from nitrobenzene dyes, and more particularly from the following red or orange nitrobenzene dyes:<ul id="ul0005" list-style="bullet" compact="compact"><li>1-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-N-(γ-hydroxypropyl)amino benzene,</li><li>N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3-nitro-4-amino benzene,</li><li>1-amino-3-methyl-4-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-6-nitro benzene,</li><li>1-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino benzene,</li><li>1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene,</li><li>1-amino-2-nitro-4-methylamino benzene,</li><li>N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-paraphenylenediamine,</li><li>1-amino-2-nitro-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-5-chloro benzene,</li><li>2-nitro-4-amino-diphenylamine,</li><li>1-amino-3-nitro-6-hydroxybenzene.</li><li>1-(β-aminoethyl)amino-2-nitro-4-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene,</li><li>1-(β, γ-dihydroxypropyl)oxy-3-nitro-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino benzene,</li><li>1-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene,</li><li>1-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene,</li><li>1-methoxy-3-nitro-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino benzene,</li><li>2-nitro-4'-hydroxydiphenylamine,</li><li>1-amino-2-nitro-4-hydroxy-5-methylbenzene.</li></ul>
The composition which can be used in the context of the invention may also comprise, in addition to or in replacement of these nitrobenzene dyes, one or more additional direct dyes chosen from yellow, yellow-green, blue or violet nitrobenzene dyes, azo dyes , anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, or dyes derived from triarylmethane.
These additional direct dyes may in particular be basic dyes, among which mention may more particularly be made of the dyes known in the COLOR INDEX, 3rd edition, under the names "Basic Brown 16", "Basic Brown 17", "Basic Yellow 57", " Basic Red 76", "Basic Violet 10", "Basic Blue 26" and "Basic Blue 99", or direct acid dyes among which mention may more particularly be made of the dyes known in the COLOR INDEX, 3rd edition, under the names "Acid Orange 7", "Acid Orange 24", "Acid Yellow 36", Acid Red 33", "Acid Red 184", "Acid Black 2", "Acid Violet 43", and "Acid Blue 62" , or even cationic direct dyes such as those described in the patent applications<patcit id="pcit0006" dnum="WO9501772A"><text>WO 95/01772</text></patcit>, <patcit id="pcit0007" dnum="WO9515144A"><text>WO 95/15144</text></patcit> and<patcit id="pcit0008" dnum="EP0714954A"><text>EP-A-0 714 954</text></patcit> and whose content forms an integral part of the present invention.
Among the additional yellow and yellow-green nitro benzene direct dyes, mention may be made, for example, of the compounds chosen from:<ul id="ul0006" list-style="bullet" compact="compact"><li>1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene,</li><li>1-methylamino-2-nitro-5-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)oxy benzene,</li><li>1-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methoxy-4-nitrobenzene,</li><li>1-(β-aminoethyl)amino-2-niro-5-methoxy-benzene,</li><li>1,3-di(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-4-nitro-6-chlorobenzene,</li><li>1-amino-2-nitro-6-methyl-benzene,</li><li>1-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene,</li><li>N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-4-trifluoromethylaniline,</li><li>4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3-nitro-benzenesulfonic acid,</li><li>4-ethylamino-3-nitro-benzoic acid,</li><li>4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3-nitro-chlorobenzene,</li><li>4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3-nitro-methylbenzene,</li><li>4-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)amino-3-nitro-trifluoromethylbenzene,</li><li>1-(β-ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene,</li><li>1,3-diamino-4-nitrobenzene,</li><li>1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene,</li><li>1-amino-2-[tris(hydroxymethyl)methyl]amino-5-nitro-benzene,</li><li>1-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-nitrobenzene,</li><li>4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3-nitrobenzamide.</li></ul>
Among the additional blue or purple nitro benzene direct dyes, mention may be made, for example, of the compounds chosen from:<ul id="ul0007" list-style="bullet" compact="compact"><li>1-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-4-N,N-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino 2-nitrobenzene,</li><li>1-(γ-hydroxypropyl)amino 4-N,N-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino 2-nitrobenzene,</li><li>1-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino 4-(N-methyl, N-β-hydroxyethyl)amino 2-nitrobenzene,</li><li>1-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino 4-(N-ethyl, N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino 2-nitrobenzene,</li><li>1-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)amino 4-(N-ethyl, N-β-hydroxyethyl)amino 2-nitrobenzene,</li><li>2-nitroparaphenylenediamines of the following formula:<chemistry id="chem0010" num="0010"><img file="EP1464322B2_D0010.tif" /></chemistry>in which :<ul id="ul0008" list-style="none" compact="compact"><li>∘R<sub>6</sub> represents a C alkyl radical<sub>1</sub>-VS<sub>4</sub>, a β-hydroxyethyl or β-hydroxypropyl or γ-hydroxypropyl radical;</li><li>∘R<sub>5</sub> and R<sub>7</sub>, which are identical or different, represent a β-hydroxyethyl, -β-hydroxypropyl, γ-hydroxypropyl or β,γ-dihydroxypropyl radical, at least one of the radicals R<sub>6</sub>, R<sub>7</sub> or R<sub>5</sub> representing a γ-hydroxypropyl radical and R<sub>6</sub> and R<sub>7</sub> cannot simultaneously denote a β-hydroxyethyl radical when R<sub>6</sub> is a γ-hydroxypropyl radical, such as those described in the French patent<patcit id="pcit0009" dnum="FR2692572"><text>FR 2 692 572</text></patcit>.</li></ul></li></ul>
When they are present, the additional direct dye(s) represent more especially from 0.0005 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 6% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
The composition can also comprise various adjuvants used, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof, mineral or organic thickening agents, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as for example cations, cationic or amphoteric polymers, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or unmodified, film-forming agents, ceramides, preservatives, stabilizing agents, opacifying agents.
Among the thickening agents, it is more particularly preferred to use thickening systems based on associative polymers well known to those skilled in the art and in particular of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties inherently attached to the composition are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition(s) envisaged. Finally, the composition used in the card of the invention can be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, shampoos, creams, gels, or in any other suitable form.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is in the form of a coloring and lightening shampoo.
In addition, the present invention is particularly suitable for the treatment of hair, pigmented or artificially colored, whose tone height is less than or equal to 6 (dark blonde) and preferably less than or equal to 4 (chestnut). In what follows, the term hair will be used interchangeably for the hair but also the hair system (eyelashes, eyebrows, etc.). Hair lightening is assessed by "tone height" which characterizes the degree or level of lightening. The notion of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, a tone separating each shade from that which immediately follows or precedes it. This definition and classification of natural shades are well known to hairdressing professionals and published in the book "<nplcit id="ncit0001" npl-type="b"><text>Sciences of hair treatments" by Charles ZVIAK 1988, Ed.Masson, pp.215 and 278</text></nplcit>. The pitches range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blond), one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the number, the lighter the shade.
A process for coloring the hair with lightening effect represents another object of the present invention.
It consists in a first step in applying to the hair a composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye and at least one amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactant, for a sufficient time to develop the desired coloration and lightening. Then, optionally, in a second step, the hair is optionally rinsed. You can optionally wash your hair with shampoo and then rinse it. Finally, in a last step, the hair is dried or left to dry. Thus, the process according to the invention may consist in applying the composition for the time necessary for the development of the coloring and the lightening, then in allowing the hair to dry or dry, without final rinsing.
The process for dyeing and lightening the hair is carried out with a composition as defined above, in the absence of oxidation dyes and oxidizing agents.
The time necessary for the development of the coloring and for obtaining the lightening effect on the hair is approximately 5 to 60 minutes and more particularly approximately 5 to 40 minutes.
The temperature necessary for the development of the coloring and for obtaining the lightening effect on the hair is generally between room temperature (15 to 25°C) and 80°C and more particularly between 15 and 40°C.
Another object of the invention consists of the use of a composition comprising comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent dye in the orange range soluble in the medium and at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines and imidazolium derivatives and/or at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkylpyrrolidones, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty alcohol ethers, fatty acid esters of oxyalkylenated or glycerolated monoalcohols, for coloring with a lightening effect pigmented or artificially colored human keratin fibres, in the absence of oxidation dyes and oxidizing agents.
In the context of this use, the fluorescent compound is chosen from fluorescent compounds belonging to the following families: naphthalimides; cationic or non-cationic coumarins; xanthenodiquinolizines (such as in particular sulforhodamines); azaxanthenes; naphtholactams; azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines; monocationic and polycationic fluorescent dyes of the azo, azomethine or methine type, alone or in mixtures.
As more specific compounds, mention may be made of the compounds of formulas F1, F2 and F3 already detailed above.
It is likewise possible to use the compounds of structure (F4) below:<chemistry id="chem0011" num="0011"><img file="EP1464322B2_D0011.tif" /></chemistry>formula in which R represents a methyl or ethyl radical; R' represents a methyl radical, X- an anion of the chloride, iodide, sulphate, methosulphate, acetate or perchlorate type. As an example of a compound of this type, mention may be made of the Photosensitiving Dye NK-557 marketed by the company UBICHEM, for which R represents an ethyl radical, R' a methyl radical and X- an iodide.
Everything that has been described previously on the natures and contents of the various additives present in the composition remains valid and will not be repeated in this part.
The present invention makes it possible to obtain treated keratin materials, and in a particularly advantageous manner pigmented or artificially colored hair, having a reflectance in the range of wavelengths ranging from 500 to 700 nanometers, preferably from 540 to 700 nanometers, greater than the reflectance of the same keratin materials not treated in accordance with the invention. This means that, in the wavelength range from 500 to 700 nanometers, preferably from 540 to 700 nanometers, there is at least one range where the reflectance curve corresponding to the materials treated, and more particularly the hair, is greater than the reflectance curve corresponding to untreated materials. “Higher” is understood to mean a difference of at least 0.05% in reflectance, and preferably of at least 0.1%. However, it is specified that there may exist in the wavelength range from 500 to 700 nanometers, preferably from 540 to 700 nanometers, one or more ranges where the reflectance curve corresponding to the materials treated is either superimposable, or lower than the reflectance curve corresponding to untreated materials. Preferably, the wavelength where the difference is maximum between the reflectance curve of the treated materials and that untreated, is in the wavelength range from 500 to 650 nanometers, and preferably in the range wavelength ranging from 550 to 620 nanometers.
Preferably the lightening effect is at least 0.5 tone.
In addition, and preferably, the use of the compositions according to the invention makes it possible to lighten the hair in a shade which, calculated in the CiEL L*a*b* system, has a variable b* greater than or equal to 6, with a ratio b*/absolute value of a*, greater than 1.2 according to the selection test described below.
<u>Selection test</u>
The composition is applied to brown hair at the rate of 10 grams of composition per 1 gram of brown hair. The composition is spread so as to cover all of the hair. The composition is left to act for 20 minutes at ambient temperature (20 to 25° C.). The hair is then rinsed with water and then washed with a shampoo based on lauryl ether sulphate. They are then dried. The spectrocolorimetric characteristics of the hair are then measured to determine the L*a*b* coordinates. In the CIEL L*a*b* system, a* and b* indicate two color axes, a* indicates the green/red color axis (+a* is red, -a* is green) and b* l blue/yellow axis (+b* is yellow and - b* is blue); values close to zero for a* and b* correspond to gray shades.
The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without however limiting its scope.
<u>EXAMPLE 1</u>
The following two compositions were prepared:<tables id="tabl0001" num="0001"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="3"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="131mm" align="center" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="18mm" align="center" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="18mm" align="center" /><thead valign="top"><row><entry><b>Composition</b></entry><entry><b>1</b></entry><entry><b>2</b></entry></row></thead><tbody><row valign="middle"><entry>Fluorescent dye NK-557</entry><entry>0,5%</entry><entry>0,5%</entry></row><row><entry valign="middle">Sodium N-cocoyl amidoethyl N-ethoxycarboxymethyl glycinate (Rhodia Chimie; Miranol C 2M Conc.NP)</entry><entry>-</entry><entry valign="middle">2% MA</entry></row><row><entry>Distilled water</entry><entry valign="middle">qsp 100%</entry><entry valign="middle">qsp 100%</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>
Composition 2 forms part of the invention while composition 1 serves as a reference.
Each of the compositions is applied to natural brown hair (tone height 4) for 20 minutes at room temperature. The bath ratio is set to 5. At the end, the locks are rinsed and dried.
The locks are read on a Varian Cary Eclipse spectrofluorimeter equipped with an optical fiber (excitation 480 nm, emission 580 nm, bandwidth 5 nm). 8 measurements are taken along the wick. The results are collated below:<tables id="tabl0002" num="0002"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="4"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="41mm" align="center" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="38mm" align="center" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="44mm" align="center" /><colspec colnum="4" colname="col4" colwidth="44mm" align="center" /><thead valign="middle"><row><entry /><entry>Untreated HT4 hair</entry><entry>HT4 hair + composition 1</entry><entry>HT4 hair + composition 2</entry></row></thead><tbody><row valign="middle"><entry>1<sup>time</sup> measure</entry><entry>0,26</entry><entry>55,24</entry><entry>59,68</entry></row><row valign="middle"><entry>2<sup>th</sup> measure</entry><entry>0,17</entry><entry>46,69</entry><entry>61,43</entry></row><row valign="middle"><entry>3<sup>th</sup> measure</entry><entry>0,26</entry><entry>50,35</entry><entry>58,05</entry></row><row valign="middle"><entry>4<sup>th</sup> measure</entry><entry>0,25</entry><entry>51,47</entry><entry>59,98</entry></row><row valign="middle"><entry>5<sup>th</sup> measure</entry><entry>0,34</entry><entry>52,77</entry><entry>57,32</entry></row><row valign="middle"><entry>6<sup>th</sup> measure</entry><entry>0,29</entry><entry>44,61</entry><entry>60,52</entry></row><row valign="middle"><entry>7<sup>th</sup> measure</entry><entry>0,29</entry><entry>44,32</entry><entry>59,77</entry></row><row valign="middle"><entry>8<sup>th</sup> measure</entry><entry>0,37</entry><entry>46,68</entry><entry>54,75</entry></row><row valign="middle"><entry>Mean</entry><entry>0.28</entry><entry>49,01</entry><entry>58,94</entry></row><row valign="middle"><entry>Standard deviation</entry><entry>0,06</entry><entry>4,02</entry><entry>2,14</entry></row><row><entry>Confidence interval (5%)</entry><entry>0.04</entry><entry>2,78</entry><entry>1,48</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>
It is therefore observed that the composition of the invention leads to greater fluorescence.
EXAMPLE 2
<u>fluorescent compound</u>
<chemistry id="chem0012" num="0012"><img file="EP1464322B2_D0012.tif" /></chemistry>
93 g of 2-picoline are reacted with 120 g of 1,6 dibromohexane in dimethylformamide at 110° C. for 5 hours. The precipitated product is recovered and filtered. 109 g of the product obtained above are dissolved in methanol and 82.82 g of p-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde are added twice, in the presence of pyrrolidine. Then leave for 30 minutes. The product is recovered in precipitated form. Analysis by mass spectroscopy: 266. Elemental analysis: C: 62.43%; H: 6.40%; Br: 23.07%; N: 8.09%. The formula is as follows C<sub>36</sub>H<sub>44</sub>NOT<sub>4</sub>.2Br.
<u>Composition</u>
The following composition was prepared:<tables id="tabl0003" num="0003"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="2" align="center"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="95mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="14mm" /><tbody valign="middle"><row><entry>fluorescent compound</entry><entry>0,6 %</entry></row><row><entry>Sodium N-cocoyl amidoethyl N-ethoxycarboxymethyl glycinate</entry><entry>2%</entry></row><row><entry>Hexylene glycol</entry><entry>7 %</entry></row><row><entry>Distilled water qsp</entry><entry>100 g</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>The percentages are expressed by weight of active material.
<u>Coloring</u>
The composition is applied to a lock of natural chestnuts (tone height 4) with an exposure time of 20 minutes. The locks are then rinsed and dried under a helmet for 30 minutes.
A clear lightening effect of the lock thus treated is obtained.
28 sheets
Sheet 1 Sheet 2 Sheet 3 Sheet 4 Sheet 5 Sheet 6 Sheet 7 Sheet 8 Sheet 9 Sheet 10 Sheet 11 Sheet 12 Sheet 13 Sheet 14 Sheet 15 Sheet 16 Sheet 17 Sheet 18 Sheet 19 Sheet 20 Sheet 21 Sheet 22 Sheet 23 Sheet 24 Sheet 25 Sheet 26 Sheet 27 Sheet 28
Every citation, both waysCites: the store holds 23 of 24
| Document | Relation | Office | Cited during |
|---|---|---|---|
| WO03028685A1 | Cites | World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO) | Opposition |
| EP0624362A1 | Cites | European Patent Office (EPO) | Opposition |
| EP1133977A2 | Cites | European Patent Office (EPO) | Opposition |
| EP1166753A2 | Cites | European Patent Office (EPO) | Opposition |
| EP1219285A2 | Cites | European Patent Office (EPO) | Opposition |
| EP1432390B1 | Cites | European Patent Office (EPO) | Opposition |
| US2002004956A1 | Cites | United States of America | Opposition |
| US2003055268A1 | Cites | United States of America | Opposition |
| US7364613B2 | Cites | United States of America | Opposition |
| EP0624362A1 | Cites | European Patent Office (EPO) | – |
| EP1133977A2 | Cites | European Patent Office (EPO) | – |
| EP1166753A2 | Cites | European Patent Office (EPO) | – |
| EP1219285A2 | Cites | European Patent Office (EPO) | – |
| EP1432390B1 | Cites | European Patent Office (EPO) | – |
| WO9402022A | Cites | World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO) | – |
| WO02074270A | Cites | World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO) | – |
| WO03029359A | Cites | World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO) | – |
| WO03028685A1 | Cites | World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO) | – |
| DE19923438A | Cites | Germany | – |
| GB1554331A | Cites | United Kingdom | – |
| US2002004956A1 | Cites | United States of America | – |
| US2003055268A1 | Cites | United States of America | – |
| US7364613B2 | Cites | United States of America | – |
14 members in 7 offices
Priority claims4
| Document | Office | Kind | Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0304034 | France | A | |
| 0304034 | France | – | |
| 0304034 | – | – | – |
| FR20030004034 | – | – | – |
Members14
| Document | Office | Kind | |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP1464322A1 | European Patent Office (EPO) | A1 | |
| FR2853239A1 | France | A1 | |
| JP2004307497A | Japan | A | |
| MXPA04003102A | Mexico | A | |
| US2005005371A1 | United States of America | A1 | |
| BRPI0401190A | Brazil | A | |
| JP2006265269A | Japan | A | |
| US7198650B2 | United States of America | B2 | |
| FR2853239B1 | France | B1 | |
| MX282646B | Mexico | B | |
| EP1464322B1 | European Patent Office (EPO) | B1 | |
| ES2426364T3 | Spain | T3 | |
| EP1464322B2This record | European Patent Office (EPO) | B2 | |
| ES2426364T5 | Spain | T5 |
93 legal events, as 9 offices reported them to INPADOC
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Numbers
- Publication
- 1464322
- Publication, DOCDB
- 1464322
- Publication, EPODOC
- EP1464322
- Application
- 42908640
- Application, DOCDB
- 04290864
- Application, EPODOC
- EP20040290864
Titles3
- German
- Verwendung von einen ausgewählten fluoreszierenden Farbstoff und ein amphoterisches oder nicht-ionisches Tensid enthaltenden Zusammensetzungen zum Färben der menschlichen keratinischen Fasern mit einem aufhellenden Effekt.
- English
- Use of compositions containing a chosen fluorescent dye and a chosen amphoteric or nonionic surfactant for dyeing human kerateous fibres with a bleaching effect
- French
- Utilisation de compositions comprenant un colorant fluorescent et un tensioactif amphotère ou non ionique particuliers pour colorer avec un effet eclaircissant des matières kératiniques humaines
Classification
- CPC, 7
- A61Q19/02
- A61K8/44
- A61K8/442
- A61K8/49
- A61K8/4926
- A61K2800/434
- A61Q5/10
- IPC, 15
- A61K8 44
- A61Q5 10
- A61Q19 02
- A61K8 49
- A61K8 00
- A61K8 22
- A61K8 37
- A61K8 38
- A61K8 39
- A61K8 40
- A61K8 41
- A61K8 66
- A61Q1 00
- A61Q1 02
- A61Q5 02
Designated states28
- Contracting states, 28
- Austria
- Belgium
- Bulgaria
- Switzerland
- Cyprus
- Czechia
- Germany
- Denmark
- Estonia
- Spain
- Finland
- France
- United Kingdom
- Greece
- Hungary
- Ireland
- Italy
- Liechtenstein
- Luxembourg
- Monaco
- Netherlands (Kingdom of the)
- Poland
- Portugal
- Romania
and 4 moreShow fewer
- Sweden
- Slovenia
- Slovakia
- Türkiye
