Make-up or personal care composition without rub off

The present invention relates to a makeup or skincare composition, keratin fibers (eyelashes, eyebrows or hair), or lips, without transfer containing the combination of a volatile hydrocarbon oil and a functionalized synthetic wax, the use of this combination to confer non-transfer properties on make-up or skincare compositions, on keratinous fibers or on the lips, and a method of manufacturing such makeup or care compositions without transfer.

The development of so-called makeup or care products "without transfer" is currently the subject of many cosmetological research. These products, for example foundations or lipsticks, eyeshadows or cheeks, are distinguished by the fact that once applied to the skin or the lips, they do not deposit significantly on the skin. surfaces with which they come in contact (glass, cup, cigarette, clothing for example).

A first approach to prevent the transfer of applied cosmetics has been to cover them with a layer of products known for their anti-adhesive properties, such as fluorinated or silicone products. Formulations of this type, however, have the disadvantage of poor cosmetics. For example, the lipstick film becomes oily and may migrate to the skin adjacent to the lips and eyelids.

Another possibility for obtaining "no transfer" products is to use silicone polymers or resins in combination with volatile raw materials which leave, after evaporation of the latter, an inert film resistant to transfer to other surfaces. The volatile raw materials used are, for example, cyclic silicones of very low viscosity (less than 3 centistokes) or isoparaffins.

In order for these make-up products to take the form of a solid, it is necessary to add hardening compounds such as waxes. Then arise problems of mechanical stability and / or compatibility between waxes and volatile products. Indeed, for a low wax content, there is an insufficient hardness of the stick which can be the cause of stability or use problems. Simply increasing the proportion of hardening waxes does not solve these problems because it usually results in a degradation of the cosmetic properties of the product that becomes uncomfortable to wear.

The object of the present invention has been to find waxes which allow sufficient hardening, that is to say having a maximum gelling power, so as to limit the proportion of these waxes in the solid cosmetic products without transfer and of avoid problems of incompatibility.

The problem of the transfer also exists for skin care or treatment products, containing active ingredients, colored or not. The Applicant has unexpectedly found that a particular class of hydrocarbon waxes characterized by a particular melting range and solubility parameters, solved the problems mentioned above.

The use of such waxes for the gelation of volatile liquid silicone vehicles such as cyclomethicones for the preparation of deodorants-creams is described in document WO 97/17942, but this document does not in any way concern the production of solid products without transfer based on isoparaffins.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic makeup or skincare composition, lips or keratin fibers without transfer, comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one functionalized synthetic wax fulfilling criteria of melting point and temperature. very particular solubility parameters defined below.

The invention also relates to the use of synthetic waxes fulfilling the criteria of melting temperature and solubility parameters indicated below for the curing of make-up or skincare compositions, lips and keratin fibers containing volatile hydrocarbon oils, in order to obtain solid cosmetic compositions "without transfer".

Yet another object of the present invention is a process for the preparation of solid "no transfer" solid makeup or care compositions associating volatile hydrocarbon oils and synthetic waxes having the properties below.

The subject of the present invention is also a process for limiting the transfer of a make-up or skincare composition, of the lips or of the keratin fibers onto a surface with which the skin, the lips or the keratinous fibers are put into contact, consisting in introducing into the composition the combination of hydrocarbon oils and synthetic waxes as defined below.

The "no-transfer" solid cosmetic compositions of the present invention thus comprise, in a fatty phase,<ul id="ul0001" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil and</li><li>at least one functionalized synthetic wax, that is to say having at least one hydroxyl or carboxyl function, and having a melting point of between 75 ° C. and 120 ° C. and Hansen solubility parameters (δ_d, δ_p, and δ_h) such as :<maths id="math0001" num=""><math display="block"><mrow><msub><mrow><mtext>15,50 ≤ δ</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>d</mtext></mrow></msub><msup><mrow><mtext> ≤ 18.50 J</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>1/2</mtext></mrow></msup><msup><mrow><mtext>/ cm</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>-3/2</mtext></mrow></msup></mrow></math><img file="EP0979643A2_D0001.tif" /></maths> and<maths id="math0002" num=""><math display="block"><mrow><msub><mrow><mtext>4.50 ≤ δ</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>at</mtext></mrow></msub><msup><mrow><mtext> ≤ 7.50 J</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>1/2</mtext></mrow></msup><msup><mrow><mtext>/ cm</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>-3/2</mtext></mrow></msup></mrow></math><img file="EP0979643A2_D0002.tif" /></maths> with δ_at = (δ_p² + δ_h²)^1/2</li></ul>

The term "volatile oil" in the present invention means an oil capable of evaporating at room temperature from a support to which it has been applied, in other words an oil having a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature, and by volatile hydrocarbon oil. an oil whose skeleton contains only hydrogens and carbons.

The preferred volatile hydrocarbon oils suitable for use in the present invention are in particular isoparaffins, namely branched alkanes having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms. It is of course also possible to use mixtures of such isoparaffins.

The volatile hydrocarbon oil preferably used for the present invention is isododecane, that is to say 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane.

As an example of isododecane available on the market, the product marketed under the name PERMETHYL® 99A by the company PRESPERSE Inc. can be mentioned.

The functionalized synthetic waxes used for the gelation and curing of the makeup compositions of the present invention comprise at least one hydroxyl or carboxyl group and are defined by their melting temperature and solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space according to Hansen. <i>(The three-dimensional solubility parameters,</i> J. Paint Technol., <u>39,</u> page 105 (1967)).

Synthetic waxes have the advantage of being products of constant composition and having a constant fatty alcohol or fatty acid content, unlike waxes of natural origin.

According to Hansen, the change in internal energy during vaporization is considered to be the sum of three contributions, the first due to the hydrogen bonds (index h), the second to the dipolar interactions (index p) and the third to the dispersion forces (index d).

The solubility parameter δ (defined as the square root of the variation of internal energy per unit volume of the chemical species during its vaporization and expressed in (J / cm³)^1/2 is defined as a coordinate vector (δ_h, δ_p and δ_d), the amplitude of the vector being given by<maths id="math0003" num=""><math display="block"><mrow><msup><mrow><mtext>δ</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>2</mtext></mrow></msup><msub><mrow><mtext> = δ</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>h</mtext></mrow></msub><msup><mrow><mtext>​</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>2</mtext></mrow></msup><msub><mrow><mtext> + δ</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>p</mtext></mrow></msub><msup><mrow><mtext>​</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>2</mtext></mrow></msup><msub><mrow><mtext> + δ</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>d</mtext></mrow></msub><msup><mrow><mtext>​</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>2</mtext></mrow></msup></mrow></math><img file="EP0979643A2_D0003.tif" /></maths>

The parameter δ_at used in the present invention as a criterion for selecting suitable waxes is defined by the following equation:<maths id="math0004" num=""><math display="block"><mrow><msub><mrow><mtext>δ</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>at</mtext></mrow></msub><msub><mrow><mtext> = (Δ</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>p</mtext></mrow></msub><msup><mrow><mtext>​</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>2</mtext></mrow></msup><msub><mrow><mtext> + δ</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>h</mtext></mrow></msub><msup><mrow><mtext>​</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>2</mtext></mrow></msup><msup><mrow><mtext>)</mtext></mrow><mrow><mtext>1/2</mtext></mrow></msup></mrow></math><img file="EP0979643A2_D0004.tif" /></maths>

The gelling power of the synthetic waxes of the present invention is related to the phenomena of their compatibility / incompatibility with the fatty phase, in particular with the isoalkanes.

Waxes having a parameter δ_at less than 4.5 are too compatible with isoalkanes and therefore have insufficient gelling and structuring capacity. On the other hand, a parameter δ_at greater than 7.5 is the sign of a strong incompatibility between the wax and the isoalkanes which results in demixing phenomena, inhomogeneity and possibly a lack of mechanical stability.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the waxes fulfilling these selection criteria are the very long chain linear fatty alcohols corresponding to the following chemical formula         (1) CH₃- (CH₂)_notCH₂OH in which n is an integer ranging from 18 to 58.

Such fatty alcohols in C_20-60 are commercially available, for example, from NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES under the names PERFORMACOL® 350, PERFORMACOL® 425, PERFORMACOL® 550 and PERFORMACOL® 700, or by PETROLITE under the names UNILIN^® 350 Alcohol, UNILIN® 425 Alcohol, UNILIN^® 550 Alcohol and UNILIN^® 700 Alcohol. It is a mixture of very long chain linear alcohols obtained by a polymerization process making it possible to obtain polymers with a very low polydispersity index (M_p/ M_not ≈ 1.1). Their weight average molar mass is between about 350 and 1000.

In the non-transfer makeup compositions of the present invention, the volatile hydrocarbon oil generally represents from 5 to 90%, preferably from 5 to 80% and more preferably from 10 to 60% by weight of the total cosmetic composition. These hydrocarbon oils may represent 100% of the volatile phase present in the composition.

The functionalized synthetic wax or waxes generally represent from 5% to 30%, preferably from 8% to 20% by weight of the total composition.

The fatty phase of the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may contain, in addition to volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular C-isoparaffins._8-16, and the functionalized synthetic waxes defined above, one or more waxes of animal, vegetable or synthetic origin different from the fatty alcohols and fatty acids in C_20-60 described above, preferably having a melting point above 30 ° C and most preferably above 45 ° C. These waxes are chosen, inter alia, from optionally hydrogenated, hydroxylated or acetylated lanolin, beeswax, spermacéti, lanolin alcohols, lanolin fatty acids and acetylated lanolin alcohol, carnauba wax, Candelilla, Kapok, Ouricury, rice, hydrogenated jojoba, Alfa or Japan, cork fiber or sugarcane waxes, cocoa butter, paraffin wax, lignite wax, petrolatum, of vaseline or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin, ozokerite, montan wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, linear esters resulting from the reaction of a saturated carboxylic acid in C_10-40 and a saturated alcohol in C_10-40, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, calcium lanolates or stearates, hydrogenated castor, palm, coconut, sunflower or coconut oils.

They may also contain one or more additional volatile solvents, different from the volatile hydrocarbon oils of the present invention. Examples of such additional volatile solvents are cyclic and volatile silicone oils such as cyclomethicones (D₄, D_5,, D₆), volatile linear silicones such as decamethyltetrasiloxane (L₄), octylheptamethyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane (L₃), hexylheptamethyltrisiloxane, and fluorinated volatile oils such as nonafluoromethyloxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane.

These volatile solvents preferably represent from 0 to 50% by weight of the volatile phase.

The compositions of the present invention may also contain non-volatile silicone and / or hydrocarbon and / or fluorinated oils, silicone gums and silicone waxes.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be low viscosity oils such as linear polysiloxanes, the degree of polymerization of which is preferably from 6 to about 2000. We can cite. for example: polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a viscosity greater than 10 mPa.s, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethicones, polyphenylmethylsiloxanes and mixtures thereof.

The silicone gums that can be used in the product of the invention can be polysiloxanes of high molecular weight, of the order of 200 000 to 1 000 000 and having a viscosity greater than 500 000 mPa.s. They can be used alone or mixed with a solvent such as a polydimethylsiloxane or polyphenylsiloxane oil.

The gums may be present in an amount of from 0 to 2% by weight of active ingredient in the final product, preferably from 0.1 to 1%.

The silicone waxes that can be used in the composition according to the invention may be substituted linear polysiloxanes. There may be mentioned, for example, polyether silicone waxes, alkyl or alkoxydimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms. These silicone waxes may be present in a proportion of 0 to 18% by weight in the final composition, preferably in a proportion of 2 to 15%.

The hydrocarbon oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be oils of vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic origin.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of:<ul id="ul0002" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene;</li><li>vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or sunflower oils. corn, soy, squash, grape seed, sesame. hazelnut. apricots, macadamia, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810. 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter;</li><li>linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam;</li><li>esters and synthetic ethers such as formula R oils₁COOR₂ in which R₁ represents the remainder of a higher fatty acid having from 6 to 29 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, sodium erucate, 2-octyldodecyl, isostearyl isostearate, arachidyl propionate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate and pentaerythritol esters;</li><li>branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylantadecanol and oleic isostearyl alcohol; their mixtures.</li></ul>

These nonvolatile oils are preferably present in an amount of from 5 to 60% by weight of the total composition.

The cosmetic compositions without transfer can of course also contain the active ingredients which give them their characteristic cosmetic properties and cosmetic adjuvants. These include, for example, substances such as sunscreens, anti-free radical agents, moisturizers, vitamins, proteins, ceramides, pH-regulating agents, antioxidants, preservatives, fillers, pigments and dyes, emollients, defoamers, perfumes, surfactants and plasticisers.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds and their amount so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition of the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the the additions envisaged.

The composition of the invention advantageously contains a particulate phase generally present in a proportion of from 0.05 to 35% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 25%, and which may comprise pigments and / or pearlescent agents and / or or fillers usually used in cosmetic compositions. This charge can lead to a colored, white or colorless composition.

By pigments, it is necessary to understand white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the liquid fatty phase, intended to color and / or opacify the cast product. By charges, it is necessary to include colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar particles. By nacres, it is necessary to understand iridescent particles, in particular produced by some shellfish in their shell or else synthesized. These fillers and nacres serve in particular to modify the texture of the composition.

The pigments may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.05 to 25% by weight of the final composition, and preferably from 2 to 15%. As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, and lacquers of barium, strontium, calcium (DC Red No. 7), aluminum.

The nacres may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0 to 20% of the total weight of the cast product, preferably at a rate of the order of 1 to 15%. Among the nacres that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride such as colored titanium mica.

The fillers may be present in a proportion of 0 to 35% of the total weight of the composition, preferably 2 to 15%. Mention may in particular be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, nylon powders (especially Orgasol) and polyethylene, Teflon, starch, boron nitride, microspheres of copolymers such as Expancel ( Nobel Industrie), polytrap (Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba's Tospearl, for example).

The composition may also comprise a surfactant, for example a conventional anionic or nonionic surfactant. The surfactant is preferably present at from 0.5 to 8% by weight of the composition.

It may also comprise liposoluble dyes and / or water-soluble dyes.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be in a solid, pasty form, not flowing under its own weight. They may be emulsions or anhydrous compositions.

The form that best utilizes the curing properties of the wax class used in the present invention is, of course, the stick or cup-cast form. It is therefore a preferred embodiment of the present invention.

The processes for manufacturing the make-up or care products according to the invention do not differ from the methods conventionally used in cosmetics and are perfectly known to those skilled in the art.

A cast solid makeup product such as a lipstick, a solid foundation, a concealer product or a product for coloring or protection of the skin or a mascara "bread" or a compact powder, are manufactured for example by<ul id="ul0003" list-style="dash" compact="compact"><li>melting and mixing the non-volatile components of the composition,</li><li>addition, at a lower temperature, of the volatile phase,</li><li>pouring the mixture thus obtained into a mold of appropriate shape, and</li><li>cooling to room temperature.</li></ul>

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.

Example 1

Evaluation of the hardness of a composition containing the isododecane + wax combination

Various sticks are prepared from a standard composition consisting of 85% by weight of isododecane (PERMETHYL® 99A from the company PRESPERSE) and 15% of a wax whose chemical nature varies from one stick to another . The sticks are made by melting and mixing these two components, casting into a suitable cylindrical mold and cooling. The hardness of the sticks obtained is measured at 20 ° C. by means of a DFGHS 2 dynamometer from the INDELCO-CHATILLON company moving at a speed of 100 mm / minute. It is expressed as the shear force (expressed in grams) needed to cut a 12.7 mm diameter stick under these conditions.

Table 1 below shows the different waxes used, their melting temperature, the solubility parameters δ_d δ_at as well as the results of the hardness tests obtained. <tables id="tabl0001" num="0001"><table frame="all"><title>Table 1</title><tgroup cols="5" colsep="1" rowsep="1"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="31.50mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="31.50mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="31.50mm" /><colspec colnum="4" colname="col4" colwidth="31.50mm" /><colspec colnum="5" colname="col5" colwidth="31.50mm" /><thead valign="top"><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="center"><b>wax</b></entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="left"><b>T</b>_{<b>fusion</b>}<b>(° C)</b></entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="left"><b>δ</b>_<b>d</b><b> (J</b>^<b>1/2</b><b> cm</b>^<b>-3/2</b><b>)</b></entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="left"><b>δ</b>_<b>at</b><b> (J</b>^<b>1/2</b><b> cm</b>^<b>-3/2</b><b>)</b></entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center"><b>shear force (g)</b></entry></row></thead><tbody valign="top"><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">PERFORMALENE500 polyethylene wax (New Phase Technologies)</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">86</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="char" char=",">16,29</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">0</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">6</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">PERFORMALENE655 polyethylene wax (New Phase Technologies)</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">102</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="char" char=",">16,35</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">0</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">6</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">octanosyl stearate KESTERWAX 82H (Koster Keunen)</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">82</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="char" char=",">16,52</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">3,07</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">4</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">linear fatty alcohol PERFORMACOL 700 (New Phase Technologies)</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">105</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="char" char=",">16,58</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">4,62</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">73</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">linear fatty alcohol PERFORMACOL 500 (New Phase Technologies)</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">99</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="char" char=",">16,54</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">4,73</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">75</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">linear fatty alcohol PERFORMACOL 425 (New Phase Technologies)</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">91</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="char" char=",">16,51</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">5,55</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">28</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">hydroxy octacosanyl hydroxystearate ELFACOS C26 (Akzo Nobel)</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">80</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="char" char=",">16,75</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">7,9</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">1</entry></row><row rowsep="1"><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">hydrogenated castor oil CUTINA HR (Henkel)</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">86</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="char" char=",">16,96</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">9,01</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">not compatible</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>

These results of the hardness tests show that only the waxes according to the present invention, namely those having a parameter δ_at between 4.5 and 7.5 J^1/2/ cm^3/2, allow to obtain sticks of sufficient hardness. The other waxes, although having a melting temperature and a parameter δ_d located within the ranges defined in the present invention, lead to sticks too soft or having incompatibility problems.

Example 2

Various sticks were prepared as in Example 1 from the following standard composition: <tables id="tabl0002" num="0002"><table frame="all"><tgroup cols="2" colsep="1" rowsep="0"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="78.75mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="78.75mm" /><tbody valign="top"><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">wax (see Table 2)</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">16 g</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">isododecane</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">38.8 g</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">(PERMETHYL® 99A, Presperse) ozokerite</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">6.4 g</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">(OZOKERITE WAX SP 1020, Strahl Pitsch) volatile silicone</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">38.8 g</entry></row><row rowsep="1"><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">(DC 200 fluid 1.5 cSt, Dow Corning)</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">100 g</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>

The hardness of the sticks is measured at 20 ° C. using a TA-XT2 texture analyzer marketed by RHEO.

The hardness is equated to the maximum force (in Newton) measured during the penetration of a stainless steel cylinder 5 mm in diameter to a depth of 0.3 mm and at a speed of 0.1 mm / second at inside a stick to test.

The results obtained are collated in Table 2 below. <tables id="tabl0003" num="0003"><table frame="all"><title>Table 2</title><tgroup cols="5" colsep="1" rowsep="1"><colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" colwidth="31.50mm" /><colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" colwidth="31.50mm" /><colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" colwidth="31.50mm" /><colspec colnum="4" colname="col4" colwidth="31.50mm" /><colspec colnum="5" colname="col5" colwidth="31.50mm" /><thead valign="top"><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="center"><b>wax</b></entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center"><b>T</b>_<b>f</b> (°<b>C</b>)</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center"><b>δ</b>_<b>d</b><b> (J</b>^<b>1/2</b><b> cm</b>^<b>-3/2</b><b>)</b></entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center"><b>δ</b>_<b>at</b><b> (J</b>^<b>1/2</b><b> cm</b>^<b>-3/2</b><b>)</b></entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center"><b>F max (N)</b></entry></row></thead><tbody valign="top"><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">PERFORMALENE® 500 polyethylene wax (New Phase Technologies)</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">86</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">16,29</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">0</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">0,17</entry></row><row><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">polyethylene wax AC 1702 (Allied Chemical)</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">92</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">16,3</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">0</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">not measurable too soft &lt;0.17</entry></row><row rowsep="1"><entry namest="col1" nameend="col1" align="left">linear fatty alcohol PERFORMACOL® 550 (New Phase Technologies)</entry><entry namest="col2" nameend="col2" align="center">99</entry><entry namest="col3" nameend="col3" align="center">16,54</entry><entry namest="col4" nameend="col4" align="center">4,73</entry><entry namest="col5" nameend="col5" align="center">3,23</entry></row></tbody></tgroup></table></tables>

These results show that the synthetic waxes according to the present invention make it possible to satisfactorily harden a complex composition capable of constituting the base of a makeup product without transfer, whereas waxes which do not conform to the invention because they have a solubility parameter. δ_at not included in the range defined above, result in compositions of unsatisfactory mechanical strength.

Example 3

Lipstick

The following non-transfer lipsticks A, B, C are prepared:<tables id="tabl0004" num="0004"><img file="EP0979643A2_D0005.tif" /></tables>

The comparison of compositions A and B shows that, for a given wax content, only the PERFORMACOL® 550 fatty alcohol according to the invention gives a lipstick having a satisfactory hardness.

To achieve a comparable hardness with a wax not in accordance with the invention, it is necessary to considerably increase the wax content (composition C). The increase in the wax content, however, results in a deterioration of the cosmetic properties of the lipstick stick. Indeed, the composition A is considerably slipperier, less dry and more homogeneous than the composition C.