Interlining for garments and method for the manufacture thereof

.7Z(~ Interlinings of garments and method for the manufacture thereof BACKGROUND OF THE INV~NTION The invention relates to ne~ types of interlining, particularly but not exclusively, for stiffening parts of outer garments, based on conventional interlining materials ~hich are subjected to paste pressure, and the method for the manufacture thereof. These interlinings are used primarily to stiffen fronts, collars, sleeves and similar parts of outer garments.

Despite the world-wide introduction of the so-called fixing process in which interlinings having a coating of hot-melt adhesive are bonded to materials of outer garments by ironing, so-called sewn-in patches are frequently used even today for the shoulder area of the front part of outer garments. That is, in addition to the ironed-in interlinings for fixing whole parts, which in contrast to the sewn-in patches, are applied to the whole area of the front parts of garments. The se~n-in patches are usually iinen or plain weave fabrics consisting of a fine cotton ~arp and elastic weft threads, having a coarse titre. Woven knitted fabrics consisting of a stitch or loop forming fine denier syntheic uarp and an elastic non-knitting coarse weft yarn are also used occasionally for the same purpose. The sewn patches are incorporated by se~n-in. A further additional method of stiffening the front and shoulder area consists of ironing in so-called fixed patches which are coated with -- 2 - '~, ~1172(~01 heat-sealing adhesive and which, in yarn and fibre structure, correspond approximately to a whole-part interlining of finer denie~ which can be ironed in. Such additional ironed in fixed patches are incapable of producing the high degree of shape holding, the luxurious smooth feel and elasticity like a sewn-in patch since the double binding by ironing creates a, stiff, certain boardy? feel.

However, the sewn patch, which is incorporated in the conventional manner by sewing in and which has remained essentially ~ithout any marked change for decades, leaves much to be desired and is no longer able to meet today's higher demands for comfort. ûn account of their high degree of elasticity, the sewn-in patches also have a hard, wiry and often strawy character and, moreover, they are incapable of compensating for certain unavoidable disharmonies between the build or physique of the person wearing the article of clothing and the cut of the article of clothing itsPlf so that, despite this, the wearer feels comfortable. In this case the clothier then often assists by incorporating even more bulky soft materials as padding.

In order to avoid these materials at least to some extent, other patch products have also recently come on to the market, these products consisting of double weave fabrics or ~oven knitted fabrics having two layers of -- 3 - 11720~ ~eft threads one above the other, an elastic lo~er layer of ~eft thread and a soft raised upper layer of ~eft thread. Since in this case the elasticity is only produced through the ~eft yarn, and not also by incorporating elasticity-producing finishing agents, high pickages are necessary thereby making these t~o-layered articles relatively costly. The high pickages are also necessary in order to obtain adequate surface stabilization, for example in the oblique draft. Another particular disadvantage of the double weft layered woven fabrics is their high degres of warp shrinkage ~hich cannot be eliminated by conventional finishing methods. Also, the weaving capacityis sharply reduced in ths case of double fabrics and ~oven knotted fabrics having double layers of ~eft, thereby making articles euen more costly.

SU~ARY OF THE INVEN~ION An object of the present invention is therefore to find low-priced and non-shrink interlining materials ~hich can be used as sewn patches and which are at the same time elastic and fully soft and, moreover, produce an even more pleasant feeling than before ~hen an article of clothing is ~orn.

A further object is to find a fixed patch which has better shape holding and a less boardy feel in the double fixed section. It is a further object of the invention that the fixed patch should produce at thè same time softness, fullness and elasticity. It is also an object of the invention that it should avoid other defects, such -- 4 - 1~200~ as for example greater susceptibility to shrinkage in the double fixed section and wrinkling when the double fixed section is curved. Moreover, it is an object of the invention gensrally to find soft, full fixed interlinings which create a bulky and smoobh feel, a problem which has hitherto been solved only unsatisfactorily ~ith fleece interlinings.

This object is achieved by providing a garment interlining for stiffening parts of garments including an interlining backing material,textile flock fibres having a fibrs length of 0.5 to 2.0 mm, a flock binder comprising a scresn-like applied print applied to the interlining backing material for anchoring the flock fibres~the flock binder consisting of a polymsr material at least part of which is cross-linked.

The screen-like flock-binping imprint is applied primatily in dot form, dot numbers from approximately 140 to 700 per square inch, and in particular 200 to 500 per square inch, bsing particularly advantageous. ~o~ever, a flock-binding imprint in the form of lines or small rods __ is also possible.

In accordance with a particular embodiment of the invention it may be preferred for the screen of the flockbinding applied print to be adapted to the length of the ilock fibres in such a ~ay that the tips of the fibre flocks situated on adjacent dots, lines or small rods al ~ 1~2(~01 most directly overlap one another. However, advantageousinterlinings can also be obtained if the minimum distance between the tips of flock fibres resting on adjacent screen dots or lines or small rods does not exceed ~ of ths distance bet~een adjacent dots, lines or small rods of the flock binder, measured form one dot edge to another. Particularly uniform handle properties can be achieved by matching the screen of the flock binder, the distance bet~een the screen dots and the lingth of the flock fibres resting on or incorporated in thedots with one another.

In accordance with a preferred embDdimentof the invention the screen dots resting on the interlining material are flattened at the top and the flock fibres are arranged substantially perpendicular to the dot surface, as shown in the accompnying dra~ing. ` Most of ~he conventional ~DVen and knitted se~n patches can be directly provided with the flock-binding imprint and flock-coated. However, in the electrostatic flock coating process which is preferred, it should be ensured that the flock-coated side does not have any projecting or upright hairs or fibres, which can frequently be avoided by singeing the flock-coated side. Also, ~ith the other interlining materials it should be ensured that there are no upright fibres so as to obtain a neat flock coating.

In addition to the interlining material already in use, hitherto unsuitable or unused two-dimensional textile stru ctures can also be used for flock coating and can then beemployed as flock-coated interlining materials, for example light fleeces having a mass per unit area of under approximately 20 9/m2 can be used for fixed fleeces ~hich can be ironEd in. The use of these materials ~as hitherto impossible or hardly possible on account of their tendency to curl or turn back when ironed on. Like~ise, it is possible to use shirt stiffening materials for flock coating according to the invention.

The se~n patches acting as a backing and proposed for the screen-like flock coating consist:usually of fabrics having fine cotton ~arp threads and coarse weft threads, ~hich contain horsehair, goat hair5 camel hair, coarse denier rayon staple or multifilament threads, as well as synthetic monomultifilament threads or staple fibres. The woven knitted patches which are also used occasionally have a knitting or loop-forming synthetic warp instead of the cotton warp.

In place of the strong coarse denier ~eft threads, viscose staple yarns, cotton yarns and/or synthetic yarns having a fine to very fine denier are usually embedded in the ~oven or knitted fixed patches ~hich are also proposèd for the scree-like flock-coating. Finally, the fleeces contain fine viscose staple fibres and synthetic fibres, the latter being in the form of staple fibres or continuous filament yarn. The fleeces are consolidated either with the aid of binders or mechanically or thermally by sewing, spot ~elding or fibre interlacing.

0~ However, c~rtain fibrous materials ~hich have not been previously consolidated to form t~o-dimensional structures are also suitable as backings for the flock layer for the purpose of producing a particularly lo~-priced interlining material, such fibrous materials as, for example, groups of threads arranged closely side by side, for example groups of warp threads consisting of synthetic yarns ~hich, at right angles to the direction of the thread groups, are provided with flock-binding prints in the form of small rods or lines and flock-coated. The groups of thrsads are advantageously placed on a transfer carrier for printing and flock-coating and, aftsr the flock-coated print has dried, are rem~ved again from the transfer carrier in the form of a finished t~o-dimensional structure.

After the coating of heat-sealing adhesive, which is preferably in the form of a dot screen, is applied to the side directed away from the flock-coated side, the t~o-dimensional structures can be used as interlining materials ~hich can be ironed in. Also, the other interlinings can be coated with heat-sealing adhesive on the opposite side to the flock-coated side.

The interlining materials provided with the flock layer can also be built up in the form of zones composed of stages hauing different degrees of elasticity, for which purpose conventional multistage interlinings can be used for flock coating. Ho~ever, it is also possible for stages having different flock layers, for example by using different screen arrangements on the flock layer, such as, in the form of -- 8 - ~172~3~ zonss, closer or ~ider setting of ths dots of the dot screen, combinations of dot scrsens and small rod screens or line screens or by different applications of flock binder according to the type and quantity of binder or be leaving space for zones.

Certain of the commercially available flock binders based on cross-linkable aqueous dispersions are suitable and can be advantageously selected for the flock coating of the interlining materials according to the invention.

The choice has to be in line with, inter alia, the desired feel of the material, penetration, anchoring on the backing material, anchoring of t.he ~lock fibres, fastness to cleaning and washing and abrasion resistanca, and the printability of as wide as possible a range of intarlining materials used in the clothing industry. Flock binders having incorporated therein microdispersed filling materials with a uery small particle size and large specific surface have proved advantageous for these purposad since they ensure sharply outlined printing, and good anchoring of both the flock binder layer and the flock fibres therein, even though the interlinings ~hich are incorporated in articles of clothing by sewing in and ironing in differ quite considerably in fibre strength and in finish. The filling materials are used to particular advantage in quantities from 0.5 to 5.0 % in ~eight, but particularly and prefer- ably in quantities from O.7 to 3 % in ~eight, relative to 1~720~)1 the dry weight of the flock binder paste. Although it has been found that good results can be achieved with filling materials having an average surface area ranging from approximately 25 to 600 m2/g it is particularly advantageous to use filling material specifications having an average surface area ~ithin the range from S0 to 40û m /9.

It is also important that the microdispersed filling materials have a very small particle size, preferably ~ithin a range from 7 to ao nm, and particularly advantageously within a range from 10 to 40 nm, with the particle form being approximately spherical. Within the scope of the invention it is also intended that the microdispersed filling materials be fast to cleaning and abrasion-resistant.

The USB of those microdispersed inorganic filling materials having a Mohs' hardness number exceeding 6, and particularly ranging from 7 to 9, are particularly advantageous.

Particularly favourable results can be frequently achieved by using those filling materials ~hich have been prepared by decomposition of the corresponding halides in the gaseous phase. For example, reference is made in this connection to the specifications of silicic acid, aluminium oxide or titanium dioxide ~hich can be used to particular advantage and ~hich are obtained, for example~ by hydrolysis of silicon tetrachloride, aluminium trichloride, titanium tetra-chloride, etc., in the gaseous phase.

- 10 117;~0~L In addition to the microdispersed filling materials, the flock binders based on cross-llnked aqueous dispersion pastes may contain, preferably, the copolymers ~hich have already been used for flocking purposes and ~hich are based on acrylates and methacrylates, ~ith ~ater as a disperslng asent. Cross-linkable acrylonitrile-butadiene copolymers, optionally ~ith a styrene content, in dispersion form are also suitable. Condensabl-e cross-linking constituents co-polymerize with the polymers. For example, methyl, ethyl, butyl and isopropyl esters and other esters of higher alcoho~s are suitabls as po~ymerizable esters of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. In addition, the cross-linkable polymers can also contain therein other co-polymerizable monomer compounds, such as acrylonitrile, free acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, vinya acetate, vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride, and ethylene.

The co-polymerized cross-linking constltuents can be selected in such a way that they cause an inherent cross-linking bet~een the polymsr molecules or initiate cross-linking ~ith added hardeners.

Inherent cross-linking produces, for example, monomethylol acrylic acid amide and monomethylol methacrylic acid amide, each incorporated in the polymer molecule. Additional hardeners are, for example, necessary ~ith co-polymerized acrylic acid and methacrylic acid amides.

- 11 ~20~1 The b,ardeners, ~hich can also be added to the inherently cross-linking polymers, can be condensable watersoluble resins having free~or etherified methylol groups.

These include carbamide resins (urea formaldehyde resins), etherified urea-formaldehyde resins, melamine resin$ triazone resins, tetramethylol acetylene diurea, then reactive resins, such as dimethylol ethylene urea, dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea, dimethlol propylene urea, dimethylol-5-oxypropy~ene urea, 4-methoxy-5-dimethyl-N, Ndimethylol propylene resin and9 finally, carbamate resins.

The condensable ~ater-soluble resins mentionsd produce bridges bet~een the above-mentioned polymers during the hardening operation.

The copolymers mentioned can also be slightly cross- linked during polymerization of the monomers used, for example by introducing divinyl compounds, such as butandiol-di(meth)-acrylate, diallyl phthalate, methylene-blsacrylamide or divinylbenzol. Preferably the divinyl compund content should not exceed in general 3% of the entire polymer.

The fastness to ~ashing and cleaning can be increased by using slightly pre-crosslinked coplymers of this type.

Ho~ever, an increase in fastness to washing and cleaning and a better binding of the flock fibres can also be achieved by pre-condensation of the cross~linkable copolymers.

~y adding, in accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, duofunctinnal hardeners, such as dimethylol ethylene urea or dimethylol propylene urea in quantities up to 4~ relative to dry weights~ storage-st2ble pre-crosslinked dispersions, which also help to shor~en the condensation tLme or require louer condens2tion temper2tures, are for~Ed in the acid medium of the copolymers.

Darticularly f2vourable results can be achieved if, in addition, crosslinkzble water-soluble impure resins having corboxylic acid amido groups in the polymer molecule, for example polyacrylic acid amides and/or water-solub1e copolymers of the polymethacrylate amides, are present.

The content of the cross-linkable copolymers, should not exceed 5% when the duofunctional hardeners having a maximum content of 3% relative also to dry content are present at the same time.

In this case the presence of the above-mentioned microdispersed filling materials is essential to prevent the otherwise very high penetration into the backing material - A simple, preferred, method of preparing such precondensation products, which also allows the manufacturer of flock-binding dispersions the possibility of a dualityimproving reaction, consists of adding the duofunctional hardeners, alone or together with the polymeric carboxylic acid amides, to the acid dispersion of the cross-linkable copolymer at the mormalte perature and allowing the formulation to st2nd for a prolonged time until the desired pre-condensation stage is reached. Then, neutralization - 13 06~ takes place and formulation of the flock binder is effected.

A further hardener is added shortly before the printing and flock-coating process.

The above-mentioned microdispersed filling materials are usually sufficient for thickening or concentrating the dispersion paste. Ho~ever, additional or solitary thickening of the dispersion pastes can also be effected by using conventional printins thickeners, such 2S casein, modified casein, gelatines, starches and modifications thereof, gum tr2gaccnth, alginates, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, cellulose ethers, high molecular ~eight polyethylene oxides. Ionogenic thickeners, such as polymeric carboxylic acids, are also suitable.

In addition to the above-mentioned constituents, minor quantities of polyurethanes in dispersion form can also be included. The polyurethanes can have ultimately continuous groups which make them capable of cross-linking with the cross-linkable copolymers and/or the hardeners.

The ultimately continuous groups can be for example, acid amide, OH, ketoxime urethane groups or blocked NCO groups ~hich, under heating, liberate unblocked NCO groups.

As is customary with mixtures of similar composition, ~etting agents, for example non-ionogenic addition products of fatty alcohols or phenols containing ethylene oxide, can also be addedto stabilize the paste.

In add - 14 ~ 17:20~1 ition, various additives which are known per se, such as colouring agents, UU stabilizers, antioxidant agents, can be included. Antifoaming agents can also be advantageously added. Finally, hardening catalysts, such as acid generators, acids or metallic or inorganic salts, can also be added to accelerate cross-linking.

Suitable acids are maleic anhydride, oxalic acid, citric acid, chloroacetic acid and toluene sulphonic acid. Suitable acid generators are their ammonium salts, ammonium chloride, ammonium rhodanide, ammonium mitrate, diammonium phosphate and others. Finally, suitable metallic salts are magnesium chloride, zinc nitrate, zinc oleate and complex salts.

Polymer acid, such as polyacrylic acid or polymethacrylic acid, can also be used and have a catalysing effect alone or together with other acids, acid generators or metallic salts.

The interlining materials are usually in the form of webs of fabric ~hich are printed ~ith the flock binder, flock-coated, dried in a single operation or in stages and fully condensed and, optionally, coated ~ith hot-melt adhesive on the opposite side to the flocked side. In the manufacture of ready-made clothing, sections of interlining material are then severed from the webs of fabric.

Ho~ever, in special casses it is also possible for sections of interlining material to be treated directly.

- 15 _ 0~1 In a preferred method of treatment in accordance with the present invention interlining materials in the form of uebs or sections (a) are imprinted ~ith a flock-binding cross-linkable dispersion paste, (b) the said dispersion paste is flocked electrostatically, (c) then prestabilized ty the effect of heat, and (d) finally, fully condensed under the effect of further heat at 90 to 140C, and preferably at 100 to 130C.

In the manu~acture of interlining materials which are flock-coated in accordance with the invention, the flock fibres are advantageously "shot" electrostatically into the flock binders based on aqueous cross-linkable dispersions. It is particularly preferably if the flock coating is applied directly to the screen-like print of the dispersion paste, it being possible for the operation to be performed advantageously, for example, in an electrostatic force field of direct current using a voltage within the range from approximately 20,000 to 100,000V. In this case it may be possible to vary the electrostatic flock coating, depending on the field of use.

Thus, it may be advantageous for electrostatic flock-coating to be assisted mechanically by producing vibrations, for example by means of rotation beater shafts.

The quantity of flock fibres used in the manufacture of the flock-coated interlinings according to the invention 1~7~(~0~ can to some extent be dependent on the type of backing materials. Favourable rEsults are 2chieved if the flock fibres are applied in quantities averaging from 5 to 30~ in weight, znd preferably rang~ng from approximate`~y 7 to 20 in weight of the dry paste ueight. Particularly opt-mum results are obtained by using such quzntities of flock fibres, whose fibre lensth and strencth as well as compositlon are controlled.

The flock fibres anchored in the flocked layer should in accordance with the invention, have a length of Q.S to a maximum of 2.0 mm. The fibre strength preferably should be between approximately 0.9 to a maximum of 10 dtex, and preferably between 3 and 8 dtex. Cut or ground fibres can be used, for example ground cotton fibres, ground and cut rayon staple fibres and synthetic fibres. Of the synthetic fibres, polyamide fibres are again preferred.

The flock fibres should normally have an antistatic reviving means in order to ensure perfect flock-coating in the electrostatic field.

The flock fibres can be natural-coloured or grey, but can also have any desired colour. In normal cases natural-coioured or srey rlock ribres and sufficient.

Also, the weight of application of the flock binder is determined primarily by the type or backing material and by the desired and envisaged reel of the materizl. Suitable quantities for application range between 20 and 50 9/m2 relative to the dry weight. In this case the dry content li72()~1 of the dispersion paste can vary advantageously bet~een approximately 40% and approximately 60~. The ~eishts of application mentioned should still be added to the above quantities of flock fibres in order to obtain the total w~ight of application of the flocked laysr.

Advantages can also be obtained by using heat-sensitive flock binders. ~hen using, in accordance ~ith a preferred embodiment of the invention, heatsensitive flock binders which co3gulate within ths temperature range belo~ 100C and preferably between 45 and 80C, it is possible, in the manufacture of interlining materials flock-cbsted in accordance with the invention, to use a multistage operation to save energy, increase production rate and preserve fibres at lo~er termperatures. In the first stage, imprinting, flock-coating, coagulation and/or predrying can be eff.ected on a belt system. After leaving the belt~system, the material is then advantageously bundled into hanks or skeins ~hile in a hot state. After a cer ~ tain residence or dwell time, post-condensation can finally take place in a further operation, if necessary, on a belt system.

Post-condensation can also be effected in a heated chamber. If post-condensation does take place in the-heated chamber, chamber temperatures betueen 90 and 140 C, and preferably bet~een 1ûO and 130C, are then preferred ~hen selecting the condensation time between, for example, 1 and 24 hours.

- 18 1~720C31 In some cases the use of foamable dispersions can also be advantag ous, it being possible for the foaming agent to be a conventional one, the decomposition of ~hich takes place, for example, during ~2S g~neration. Ho~ever, it is also possible to control the propellant, ~hich gives rise to 2 partially porous screen of synthetic material, by special variation of the suspension agent or even of the type of heating condi~ions. By using foamed dispersions it is possible to achieve in particular a saving of material, and sometimes also an improvement in handle qualities.

The flock binder for imprinting the interlinings according to the invention cab be produces, for example, preferably in the follo~ing way:

- 400 parts by ~eiqht of Plextol DV 300 (= 60% crosslinkable aqueous polyacrylate dispersion, containinq Nmethylolcarboxylic acid amido groups, and containing acrylonitrile, very sDft, pH. value 2.5; manufacturers: Rohm GmbH, Darmstadt Germany Federal Republic.) are mixed ~ith:

20 parts by ~eiaht of a 20% polyacrylic acid amide solution in water and 12 parts by ~eiqht of a 40% solution of dimethylolpropylene urea in water.

The mixture has a pH value of approximately 3.2 After a dwell time of 8 days at room temperature, a pH value of 8 is set using concentrated ammonia. The dispersion, ~hich is no~ precondensed and sufficiently stable for Y~ Jc~ 07~cs ffa~/c ~nq ~ 9 1~7~ storage, is mixed, at room temperature,in an evacuatEd high-speed mixer, ~ith 5 parts bv_weic~t of microdispersed silicic acid prepared by fl2me hydrolysis of SiC14 (surface are2 epprox. 2ûO m /S) and 1 ~art by ~eicht of mineral oll antifoa~ agent. Shortly before use - 2~ DartS by ~eiqht of a 60- aoueous solution of etherified melamine resin are agitatêd nto a homosenous form. The dispersion paste can then be used for printing and flock- coating.

The following viscositles are measured using the ~aake Viscotester, Model VT 23:

Test sample SVI, speed 5.8 r.p.m., 7,50û mPas ' Test sample SVI, speed 23.4 r.p.m., 4,ûO0 mPas.

the viscosity of the mixture can be easily varied by adding uater, adding thickeners or varying the quantity of thickening agents. It is possible to vary the viscosity also by varying the quantity of microdispersed filling materials to be used. Ho~ever, in this case c~ean printing and good anchoring should be ensured above all. As can be seen from the measured values above, the dispersion paste is thixotropic. The viscosity decreases as the speed of the rotatins sample increases. Moreover, the viscosity range ~,ithln ~hich a perfect print is obtained is ~ide.

Measured ~ith the aid of test sample SVI and a speed of 5.8 r.p.m. the range of viscosity can be varied between approximately 4000 and 40,000 mPas.

1û parts by ~eight of Lutonal~M 40, a 50~ solution in uater( = polyvinyl methyl ether; manufacturers: BASF, dc n~ c r~R r~i - 20 1~7ZOOl Ludwigshafen Germany Federal Republic ), can be added to make the formulation heat sensitive. The mixture then begins to coagulate at 65 to 70C. Conventional print-ng and flock-coating appar-tus can be used ~o carry out the method. Ho~ever, the screen pr-nting ?rocess is preferred for the flock binding print in thE form of dot and small rod screens~ and the gravure or intaglio printing process for the line~shaped prin~. The screen-like printing of the flock binder, for which purpose the aforementioned dispersion paste can be used for both processes, os follo~ed immediately by flock-coating. In this case also, it is possible to use conventional flock-coating apparatus ~hich can consist of one or a plurality of conveyor belts, one or a plurality of flock fibre containers, a high-voltage field of approximately 2û,0ûû to 100,ûO0 volts, which can be applied between a vibrating metal grating below the flock fibre containers and an earthed grating belo~ the flock fibre conducting conveyor belt, then optionally, an electrostatic precleaner, a suction cleaning device, a dryer and an aftercleaning facility. Surplus flock fibres ~hich fall beyond the edge of the interlining and out of the flock container can be collected in a collecting hopper below the conveyor belt asscciated ~ith the flock containers.

The system can be provided for both the flock-coating of a ~eb product _nd for interlining sections.

- 21 11 7 DESCRIPTION OF EXAMPLES.

Example 1 Flnck-coated sewn patch The backing material is a horsehair patch provided with synthetic resin and consisting of a cotton ~arp Nm 34/1, sett of the warp 170 threads/10 cm, a ~eft yarn A containing 45% of ~acedonian goathair having a yarn strengt,h of Nm= 7 and 55~, of viscosa staple fibre (fibre length 120 to 150mm, fibre strength 16 dtex) and the ~eft twine B having yarn strength of Nm= 3, formed from a core thread containing cotton yarn or twist of Nm= 60/1 to 20%, inserted horse mane hair to 50~, and a t~ist thread consisting of single-cotton yarn of Nm= 10/1 to 30%. Both ~eft yarns are inserted in a ratio of A:B= 3:1. The pickage is 150 picks/10 cm. The patch is plain ~eave or linen fabric. Before being given a stiff finnish, the patch uas singed on the flock binder side.

Using a 15 mesh circular stencil of a screen printer (corresponding to 260 perforations per square inch) ~ith a ~all thickness of 0.20 mm and hole diameter of 0.7 mm, 6û g/m of the above paste are printed on to the fabric ~eb of the above-mentioned patch, corresponding to a dry flock binder coating of 34 9/m2 approximately. 12 9/m2 of polyamide flock fibres are spread into the print from tuo flock containers and inserted or 'shot' in via the high voltage field. The fabric ~eb passes through a dryer ~hich is heated ~ith hot air to 150C and has three compartments, each 3 metres lons. The fabric web speed is app - 22 ~1~20631 roximately 6 m/min. ~he f2bric web, while hot, is bundled into hanks or skeins immediately after leaving the dryer and allo~ed to stand for about 24 hours on the skein in a chamber heated to approxim2tely 110 C. In normal cases the flock binder coating is no~ fast to washing or dry cle2ning and abr2sion resistant. ~hen necessary, post-_ondensation can take place in a repe2ted pass at the same speed and with thE dryer at the same temperature setting.

In the ready-made clothing industry patch sections for stiffening the front and shoulder areas of a sack coat or overcoat are cut from the fabric ~eb and sewn on to the reverse side of the front part which can be provided with a ~hole-part interlining or reinforced with a synthetic resin applied print The unflocked side of the patch is joined to the reverse side of the outer garment material. An additional padding is no longer required. Even after lining with lining material, the front part of the article of clothing feels softer and more pleasing than a front part stiffened by conventional methods.

The shape holding is distinctly improved. The wearer's article of clothing feels softer when in contact with the body 2nd weighs lighter on the shoulders.

Exam~le 2 Flock-coated fixed patch The backing material is a lo~-shrinkage ~oven knitted - 23 117Z~)Ol fabric consisting of 2 knitting ~2rp having an open fringeof polyester multifilament threads, yarn strength 50 dtex, 20 capillaries, warp sett 100 fringe ro~s~10 cm and a single weft ~hich s inserled lnto the loops or stitches and consists of viscose staple fibre of Nm 34/1, fibre strength 1.7 dtex. pickage ~60 picks/10 cm.

Using a 17 mesh circ~l2r s~encii of a screen printer (correspDnding to 336 perforatior,s per s~u2re inch) of uall thickness 0.20 mm and hole diameter of 0.6mm, 50 9/m2 of the above paste are printed on to the fabric ~eb of the said woven knitted fabric, corresponding to a dry flock binder coating of 30 9/m2 approximately. 10 9/m2 of polyamide 6/6 having a flock fibre strength of 3.3 dtex and fibre length of 1.0 mm are spread into the print from t~o flock containers and 'shot' in via a voltage field of approximately 80,000 volts. Drying and condensation take place as in Example 1. The fully condensed flockcoated fabric is subsequently coated on the unflocked side ~ith polyamidE hot-melt adhesive paste in the 11 mesh screen (corresponding to 140 dots per sqare inch). In the manufacture of ready-made clothing, sections for stiffening the front and shoulder are2s of a sack coat or overcoat are cut from the fabric ~eb and ironed on to front parts ~hich can be provided with ~hole-part interlining or reinforced on the reverse sides ~ith synthetic resin. An additional layer of p2dding is not reGuired.

- 24 1~7Z(~ The stlffening on the front and shoulder areas is clearly more textile than a reinforcement ironed on to the front and shoulder areas by conventional methods. The boardy character has disappeared.

The shape retention is also significantly improved.

The said woven knitted interlining can also ~e used as a uhole-part interlining for reinforcing the rsverse side of part of or the ~hole of the front area of a sack coat, lady's suit or overcoat. It can also be used to stiffen lapels.collars, cuffs and sleeve edges. The improved shape holding and the more textile and softer bulkier fee~ are also impressive features in this case.

Example 3 Flock-coated fixed mùltistaqe patch The material used as backing is a low-shrinkage mulistage patch, the ~arp of ~hich is symmetrically ~raded and consists of yarn material with variable elasiticty.

The ~arp threads of the edge ~one having a width of 19.1 cm consist in each case of t~o cotton t~ists A of thread Nm 34/ double and of a twisted thread B, which is formed from 9-capillary rayon multifilament yarn of yarn strength Nm 14~4 with single-cotton yarn, yarn strength Nm 6û.

This is followed by a 10 cm ~ide zone consisting in each case of four threads A and a ~hread B, followed by a 10.5 cm wide zone of threads A. The next zone in the ~arp has a ~idth of 3 cm and contains in each case one thread A and t~o - 25 117Z~)Ul A and two cotton t~isted threads C having a thread strength of ~m 85/double.

Finally, this is follo~ed by a further zone, 3.2 cm ~ide and having ~arp threadsC. ~rom this point the ~arp ~hreads are inserted symmetrically. .

3.2 cm of the ~arp threads C are followed by 3.0 cm ~arp threads A and ~ in a ratio of 1:2, then 10.5 cm ~arp threads A, then 10.0 cm ~arp threads A and B in a ratio cf 4:~, and finally, 19.1 cm ~arp threads A amd 8 in ratio of 2:1.

The sett of the ~arp threads is 160 threads/10cm.

Single-cotton threads of Nm 60 and havinga pickage of 95 picks/10 cm are inserted in the form of weft threads.

The multistage interlining is plain ~eave or linen fabric.

The interlining is coated ~ith flock binder, flockcoated, predried and fully condensed as in Example 1.

After condensation the unflocked side of the multistage interlining is coated with polyamide hot-melt adhesive pasts in the 11 mesh screen, as in Example 2. In the manufacture of ready-made clothing, sections for reinforcing the front and shoulder areas of a sack coat or overcoat are cut from the fabric and ironed on to front parts, which can be provided ~ith whole-part interlinings or reinforced on the reverse sides ~ith synthetic resin, in such a ~ay that the elastic ~arp threads lie on the shoulder area and the less elastic ~arp threads of the multistage interlining lie on the front area. An additional layer of padding is not required in this case.

The front and shoulder stiffening is likewise clearly - 26 il7Z(~Ol more textile than sections ironed by conventional methodson to the front and shoulder parts using unflocked multistage interlinings. The boardy characted has desappeared.

The grading of the handle and the shape holding are also significantly improved.

Ex2m31e ~ Flock-ro2ted fleece interlin1na ror ironino on to articles of clo ~ A spunbonded fabric, which is ~elded in the form of a dot screen and cinsists of polyamide 6 continuous filaments and ~hich has a fleece ~eight of 15 g/m , serves as a backing material for the flock coating. A treansfer strip of thick polyester fabric, coated ~ith silicon, is used as a printing!pad. The feece is placed on the transfer strip and fed, together with the latter, to the rotary screen printer from Example 2 and printed, flock-coated and condensed as in Example 2. After leaving the dryer in the first pass, the transfer strip is removed and ~ound up separately. The fully condensed flock-coated fleece is then coated on the unflocked side ~ith a polyamide hot-melt adhesive paste in the 15 mesh screen (corresponding to 260 perforations per square inch).

In the manufacture of ready-made clothing, sections for stiffening the front and shoulder areas of a sack coat I172()01 are cut from the fabric and ironed on to front parts ~hich can be provlded with ~hole-part interlinings or reinforced on the reverse sides ~ith synthetic resin. An additional layer of padding is not re~uired. The front and shoulder stiffening is clearly more textile than a fleece interlining ironed on by conventional methods. Despite the bulky handle, 'elephant hidel formations ~hen the doubly reinforced area is curved, ~hich freauently occur ~ith bulky fleece stiffening, are avoided. The frequently flat and boardy character of a double stiffening ~ith a fleece layer has also disa?peared. Shape holding is also significantly improved.

The said flock-coated fleece interlining can also be used as a ~hole-part interlining for stiffening the reverse side of a part of or the ~hole of the front area of a sack coat, lady's suit or overcoat. It can also be used for the edge stiffening of lapels, collars, cuffs and sleeves. The good shape holding and the textile soft, bulky handle are also impressive features in this case.

The strong tendency of a fleece of only 15 g/m? to turn back is also completely eliminated.

Examole 5_ Flock-coated fixed interlinina, formed by ê thr~ad l~ver In this case a t~o-dimensional fabric structure is not used as a backing for the flocked layer, but merely - 28 1172()~1 a thread layer which is tensioned in the uarp direction and consists of 20- capillary polyester multifilament yarns having a thread strength of 44 dtex and a sett of 200 threads/10 cm. The transfer strip of Example 4 serves as a printing pad. The group of threads is placed on the transfer strlp and, together ~ith the latter, is fed to the nip of a pzir of rollers consisting of an engraved steel printing roller and a non-engraved grounding-in steel roller. Parallel to the roller axis, the engraved roller is provided ~ith line grooves having a depth of approximately 0.4 to 0.6 mm and a conical or rounded cross-section. The conical grooves are approximately 0.6 mm in depth, and approximately 1.2 mm in height.

The spacing bet~een the grooves is approximately 1.1mm.

Smaller dimensions can also be selected. When a slight pressure is applied by the pair of rollers, the thread layer and the transfer strip guided under the layer receive the flock binder paste ~hich is fed into the grooves by means of a doctor and ~hich is applied at right angles to the direction of the thread layer. Approximately 60 9/m2 ~f the above-mentioned flock binder paste are applied, corresponding to a dry flock binder coating of approximately of 34 9/m2 approximately 12 9/m2 of polyamide - 29 _ ~172~ flock fibres are spread into the print from two flock containers and 'shot' in via the high voltage electrostatic field. Drying and condensation take place as in Example 1. After leaving the dryer in the first pass, the transfer strip is separated from the printed thread layer, The thread layer, ~hich is line printed with flock binder paste, is now a two-dimensional fabric structure. The two-dimensional structure is subsequently coated on the unflocked side, as described in Example 2, with a polyamide hot-melt adhesive paste using an 11-mesh screen. The two-dimensional structure, which can be ironed in, can be used as a whole-part interlining for reinforcing the reverse side of a part of or the whole of the front area of a sack coat, lady's suit or overcoat. It can also be used for the edge stiffening of lapels, collars, cuffs and sleeves. It has a very high dimensional stability, has a soft textile feel and is highly elastic at right angles to the thread direction, a quality or property which commends the use of the fixable t~o-dimensional fabric structure also for elastic materials for outer garments. The economical method of producing the fabric structure should also be mentioned. A weaving or knittingprocess is avoided when manufacturing the two-dimensi - 30 1172()01 onal fabric structure.

In the accompanying drz~ing t~e reference numeral 3 denotes a b2cking to which tne flock binder 2 is applied.

The flock fi'ares1 are fixed on this flock binder 2. The hot-melt 2dhesive 6 is prûvided on the u~derside of the backinS