Process for lightening direct dyeing or oxidation dyeing in the presence of a particular organic amine, device therefore and anhydrous composition
Abstract
COLORING PROCESS OF KERATINIC FIBERS, DEVICE WITH VARIOUS COMPARTMENTS AND ANYTHING COMPOSITION. The present invention has for its object a process of coloring human keratin fibers in the presence of an oxidizing agent, which comprises the use of an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising one or more fatty bodies, and one or more surfactants, an oxidizing composition, a composition comprising one or more dyes and one or more organic amines whose pbK at 250 ° is less than 12. It also deals with a device with several compartments, with a first compartment containing the anhydrous cosmetic composition, a second compartment, an oxidizing composition and a third compartment, a composition comprising one or more dyes and one or more organic amines. Finally, the present invention deals with an anhydrous composition comprising one or more fatty bodies, one or more surfactants, one or more dyes, and one or more organic amines.
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16 claims: 13 independent, 3 dependent
- 1Reivindicações 1. PROCESSO DE COLORAÇÃO DE FIBRAS QUERATÍNICAS, humanas em presença de um agente oxidante no qual são aplicadas sobre as referidas fibras:5 (a) uma composição anidra (A) cosmética que compreende um ou mais corpos graxos e um ou mais tensoativos, (b) uma composição (B) que compreende um ou mais agentes oxidantes;(c) uma composição (C) que compreende um ou mais corantes de 10 oxidação, um ou mais corantes diretos, ou suas misturas, uma ou mais aminas orgânicas cujo pKb é inferior a 12 a 25°C.
- 2PROCESSO, de acordo com qualquer uma das reivindicações anteriores, caracterizado pelo fato do ou dos corpos graxos serem escolhidos entre o óleo de vaselina, os polidecenos, os ésteres líquidos I5 ou suas misturas.
- 3PROCESSO, de acordo com qualquer uma das reivindicações anteriores, caracterizado pelo fato do teor de corpo graxo estar compreendido entre 10 e 99% em peso, em relação ao peso total da composição (A). 20
- 4PROCESSO, de acordo com qualquer uma das reivindicações anteriores, caracterizado pelo fato do tensoativo presente na composição (A) ser um tensoativo não iônico, mais particularmente escolhido entre os tensoativos não iônicos mono- ou poli-oxialquilenados, mono- ou poliglicerolados. 25 5. PROCESSO, de acordo com qualquer uma das reivindicações anteriores, caracterizado pelo fato do teor de tensoativos representar de 0,1 a 50% em peso, em relação ao peso da composição anidra (A). 6. PROCESSO, de acordo com qualquer uma das reivindicações anteriores, caracterizado pelo fato da amina orgânica compreender uma ou mais funções amina primária, secundária ou terciária, e um ou mais grupos alquila, lineares ou ramificados, com C^Cg portadores de
- 55 um ou mais radicais hidroxila.
- 67. PROCESSO, de acordo com a reivindicação anterior, caracterizado pelo fato da amina orgânica ser:• uma alcanolamina escolhida entre as mono-, di- ou trialcanolamina, que compreende um a três radicais hidroxialquila idênticos ou 10 não, com C1-C4, • um composto com a seguinte fórmula: Rx \ z Rz N WN „ / \ Ry R t na qual W é um resto alquiieno com Ci-C 6 eventualmente substituído por um grupo hidroxila;Rx, Ry, Rz e Rt, idênticos ou diferentes, representam um átomo de hidrogênio, um radical alquila com C r C6 ou 15 hidroxialquila com Ci-C 6 , um radical aminoalquila com Οί-Οθ.
- 78. PROCESSO, de acordo com qualquer uma das reivindicações anteriores, caracterizado pelo fato pelo fato da amina orgânica ser uma alcanolamina, de preferência escolhida entre o 2-amino 2-metil-1 propanol, a monoetanolamina ou suas misturas. 20
- 89. PROCESSO, de acordo com qualquer uma das reivindicações anteriores, caracterizado pelo fato da amina orgânica ser escolhida entre os ácidos aminados básicos de fórmula (I) indicada a seguir:NH 2 r—ch 2 —ch x (I) co 2 h em que R designa um grupo escolhido entre: ΝΗ Ν II -(CH 2 ) 2 NH 2 -(CH 2 ) 2 NH•ΝΗ, -(CH 2 ) 3 NH 2 -(CH 2 ) 2 NHCONH 2 ΝΗ
- 910. PROCESSO, de acordo com qualquer uma das reivindicações anteriores, caracterizado pelo fato da amina orgânica ser escolhido entre a arginina, a histidina, a lisina, ou suas misturas.
- 1011. PROCESSO, de acordo com qualquer uma das reivindicações anteriores, caracterizado pelo fato do teor de amina orgânica representar de 0,1 a 40% em peso, de preferência de 0,5 a 20% em peso em relação ao peso da composição (B). 0
- 1112. PROCESSO, de acordo com qualquer uma das reivindicações anteriores, caracterizado pelo fato de se aplicarem sucessivamente e sem enxágüe intermediário as composições (A), (B) e (C).
- 1213. PROCESSO, de acordo com qualquer uma das reivindicações 1 a 11, caracterizado pelo fato de se aplicarem sucessivamente 15 e sem enxágüe intermediário a composição resultante da mistura prévia à aplicação das composições (A) e (C) e, em seguida, a composição oxidante (B).
- 1314. PROCESSO, de acordo com qualquer uma das reivindicações 1 a 11, caracterizado pelo fato de se aplicar uma composição 20 obtida pela mistura extemporânea, antes da aplicação, das composições (A), (B) e (C).
- 1415. PROCESSO, de acordo com qualquer uma das reivindicações anteriores, caracterizado pelo fato das relações ponderais R1 das quantidades de composições (A) + (C) + (B) e R2 das quantidades de 25 composições (A) / (C) variarem de 0,1 a 10, e de preferência de 0,3 a 3.
- 1516. DISPOSITIVO COM VÁRIOS COMPARTIMENTOS, que compreendem um primeiro' compartimento que contém a composição anidra (A) de acordo com uma das reivindicações 1 a 5, sendo que um segundo compartimento contém uma composição (B) que compreende um ou mais 5 agentes oxidantes, e um terceiro compartimento contém uma composição (C) de acordo com uma das reivindicações 6 a 11, que compreende um ou mais corantes de oxidação, um ou mais corantes diretos ou suas misturas, e uma ou mais aminas orgânicas cujo pKb a 25°C é inferior a 12.
- 1617. COMPOSIÇÃO ANIDRA, que compreende um ou mais 10 corpos graxos, um ou mais tensoativos, um ou mais corantes de oxidação, um ou mais corantes diretos ou suas misturas, e uma ou mais aminas orgânicas cujo pKb a 25°C é inferior a 12. WW//' 2
Independent claims16
490 paragraphs in 22 sections, as filed
(54) Title: COLORING PROCESS OF KERATIN FIBERS, DEVICE WITH VARIOUS COMPARTMENTS AND ANYTHING COMPOSITION (30) Unionist Priority: 12/21/2007 fr 0760273 (73) Holder (s): loreal (72) Inventor (s): alain lagrance, leila hercouet, marie GIAFFERI (57) Abstract: KERATINIC fiber coloring process, DEVICE WITH VARIOUS COMPARTMENTS AND ANYTHING COMPOSITION. The object of the present invention is a process for staining human keratin fibers in the presence of an oxidizing agent, which comprises the use of an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising one or more fatty bodies, and one or more surfactants, an oxidizing composition, a composition which comprises one or more dyes and one or more organic amines whose pbK at 250 ° is less than 12. It also deals with a device with several compartments, with a first compartment containing the anhydrous cosmetic composition, a second compartment, an oxidizing composition and a third compartment, a composition comprising one or more dyes and one or more organic amines. Finally, the present invention deals with an anhydrous composition comprising one or more fatty bodies, one or more surfactants, one or more dyes, and one or more organic amines.
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0001.tif" />
; ΡΙ0806117Ϊ. 2 “COLORING PROCESS OF KERATIN FIBERS, DEVICE WITH VARIOUS COMPARTMENTS AND ANYTHING COMPOSITION”
The present invention deals with a process of coloring human keratin fibers in the presence of an oxidizing agent, which comprises the use of an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising one or more fatty bodies, and one or more surfactants, an oxidizing composition, a composition that comprises one or more dyes and one or more organic amines whose pKb at 25 ° C is less than 12.
It also deals with a device with several compartments, 10 with a first compartment containing the anhydrous cosmetic composition, a second, an oxidizing composition and a third, a composition comprising one or more dyes and one or more organic amines.
Finally, the present invention deals with an anhydrous composition 15 comprising one or more fatty bodies, one or more surfactants, one or more dyes and one or more organic amines.
Among the methods of coloring human keratin fibers, such as hair, oxidation or permanent coloring can be mentioned. More particularly, this staining mode uses one or more oxidation dye precursors, usually one or more oxidation bases possibly associated with one or more couplers.
In general, oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols as well as heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or faintly colored compounds that, associated with oxidizing products, allow access to colored (material) species, through an oxidative condensation process.
Often, in order to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases, they are associated with one or more couplers, which are chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, metaaminophenols, methadiphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as compounds indole.
The variety of molecules used in the oxidation bases and in the 5 couplers allows to obtain a rich color palette.
Direct or semi-permanent coloring is also known. The process classically used in direct staining consists of applying direct dyes on the keratin fibers that are colored and dyeing molecules, which have an affinity with the fibers, letting pause to allow the molecules to penetrate, by diffusion, into the fiber, and rinsing them afterwards.
The direct dyes generally used are chosen from the benzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azoic, metinic, azometinic, xanthenic, acridinic, azinic or triarylmethane dyes.
This type of process does not require the use of an oxidizing agent to reveal the color. However, the possibility of using an oxidizing agent to obtain a whitening effect is not excluded. In this case, there is talk of direct or semi-permanent coloring in lightening conditions.
The processes of permanent or semi-permanent staining in lightening conditions, therefore, consist of using with the dye composition an aqueous composition that comprises at least one oxidizing agent, in a condition of alkaline pH in the vast majority of cases. This oxidizing agent has the role of degrading the melanin in the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for relatively weak bleaching, the oxidizing agent is usually hydrogen peroxide. When more intense lightening is desired, peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates, for example, are usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide.
One of the difficulties comes from the fact that the bleaching process is carried out in alkaline conditions and that the most commonly used alkaline agent is ammonia. Ammonia is particularly advantageous in this type of process. In fact, it allows to adjust the pH of the composition to an alkaline pH to allow the degradation of the oxidizing agent. But this agent also causes a swelling of the keratin fibers, with an opening of scales, which favors the penetration of the oxidant into the fiber and therefore increases the effectiveness of the staining reaction.
Now, this alkalizing agent is very volatile, which causes discomfort to the user due to the particularly strong, or rather unpleasant, smell of the ammonia that is released during the process.
In addition, the amount of ammonia released requires the use of higher levels than necessary to compensate for this loss. This is not without consequence for the user who is not only bothered by the smell, but can be exposed to higher risks of intolerance such as, for example, an irritation of the scalp (bites).
As for the option of simply replacing all or part of the ammonia with one or more classic alkalizing agents, it does not lead to compositions as effective as those based on ammonia, in particular because these alkalizing agents do not lead to a whitening enough of the pigmented fibers in the presence of the oxidizing agent.
One of the objectives of the present invention is to propose staining processes carried out in the presence of an oxidizing agent that do not have the drawbacks of existing processes, due to the presence of high levels of ammonia, while remaining effective, both in relation to the intensity of the staining obtained , as for chromaticity, color homogeneity along the fiber. In particular, the process according to the present invention leads to intense colorings that allow 100% coverage of gray hair.
These and other purposes are achieved by the present invention, which therefore has as its object a process of coloring human keratin fibers in the presence of an oxidizing agent in which they are applied on said fibers:
(a) an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty bodies, and one or more surfactants;
(b) a composition (B) which comprises one or more oxidizing agents;
(c) a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidation dyes, one or more direct dyes, or mixtures thereof and one or more organic amines whose pKb is less than 12 to 25 ° C.
It also deals with a device with several compartments that comprises, in a first compartment, an anhydrous composition (A), in a second, a composition (B) that comprises at least one oxidizing agent, and in a third, a composition (C) that comprises a or more oxidation dyes and / or one or more direct dyes as well as one or more organic amines of less than 12 to 25 ° C.
A final object of the present invention consists of an anhydrous composition comprising one or more fatty bodies, one or more surfactants, one or more oxidation dyes, one or more direct dyes or mixtures thereof, and one or more organic amines whose pKb a 25 ° C is less than 12.
More features and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly in the reading of the description and examples below.
In the text below, and unless otherwise stated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range.
Human keratin fibers treated by the process of the present invention are preferably hair.
As previously indicated, the coloring process is carried out in the presence of an anhydrous composition (A).
More particularly, anhydrous composition in the sense of the present invention is understood to mean a composition having a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and more preferably still less than 1% by weight. with respect to the weight of said composition. It should be noted that the water can also be in the form of bound water, such as the water of crystallization from salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in making the compositions according to the present invention.
As mentioned, the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprises one or more fatty bodies.
Fatty body means an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility below 5% and preferably at 1%, more preferably at 0.1 %). In addition, fatty bodies are soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions as, for example, chloroform, ethanol or benzene.
More particularly, fatty bodies are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
Advantageously, fatty bodies are chosen from alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, mineral, vegetable, animal or synthetic oils, silicones, waxes.
It should be remembered that for the purposes of the present invention, alcohols, esters and fatty acids have more particularly at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
With regard to alkanes, they comprise from 6 to 30 10 carbon atoms, are linear or branched, possibly cyclic. As an example, one can mention hexane, dodecane.
As oils that can be used in the composition of the present invention, we can mention for example:
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean oils, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, macaw, sunflower, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®; isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
- fatty alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexildecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;
- partially hydrocarbon fluorinated oils and / or as described in JP-A-2-295912; as fluorinated oils, perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names of Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL, can also be mentioned
Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names of PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by 3M.
Wax or waxes are chosen, in particular, from carnauba wax, candelilla wax and alpha wax, paraffin wax, ozoquerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as the cassis flower essential wax sold by Bertin (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabeline); other waxes or waxy raw materials usable in accordance with the present invention are, in particular, marine waxes such as that sold by Sophim under the reference M82, polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.
Fatty acids can be saturated or unsaturated and contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are chosen more particularly from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.
Esters are the esters of C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic mono or polyacids and C1C26 saturated or unsaturated mono or polyalcohols, linear or branched with C1C26, and the total carbon number of the esters is greater than or equal to 10.
Among the monoesters, dihydroabiethyl beenate can be mentioned; octyldodecyl beenate; Isocetyl beenate; cetyl lactate; alkyl lactate with C<sub>12</sub>-C · ^; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; Linoleyl lactate; Oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; Decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; Isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; Isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate;
octyl isonãoanoate; 2-ethylexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; 0 octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; Oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 0 hexyl stearate, 0 stearate butyl, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
Also according to this variant, esters of di or tricarboxylic acids with C4-C22 θ of alcohols with C1-C22 θ can also be used, esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and di, tri, tetra or penta25 hydroxy alcohols with C2-C26 ·
It can be mentioned in particular: diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; 0 dioctyl adipate; diisoestearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearate stearoyl; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisoestearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol tipprilate, propylene glycol tipprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisoestearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisananoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.
Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferable to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octidecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexildecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate.
The composition can also comprise, as fatty ester, fatty acid sugar esters and diesters with C6-C30, preferably with C12-C22. It should be noted that “sugar” means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds that have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and that contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and its in particular alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives such as methyl glucose.
The esters of sugars and fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of
I sugars described above and fatty acids with C<sub>6</sub>-C3o, preferably with C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, they can comprise one to three carbonocarbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
Esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.
These esters can be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, beenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, in particular mixed esters of oil-palmitate, oil-stearate, palm-stearate .
More particularly, mono- and di-esters e. in particular, mono- or di-oleate, stearate, beenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methyl glucose.
For example, the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate, can be mentioned as an example.
Examples of esters or mixtures of fatty acid sugar esters can also be mentioned:
- products sold under the names F160, F140, F110,
F90, F70, SL40 by Crodesta, which respectively designate sucrose palmitoestearates formed of 73% monoester and 27% di- and triester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri-, and tetra- ester, 52% monoester and 48% di-, tri-, and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri-, and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di -, tri-, and tetra-ester, and 0 sucrose mono-laurate:
- products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters for example referenced B370 and which correspond to sucrose beenate formed by 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester;
- the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.
The silicones usable in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, modified or not by organic groups, which have a viscosity of 5.10 '<sup>6</sup> to 2.5 m<sup>2</sup>/ s at 25 ° C and preferably 1.10 '<sup>5</sup> to 1 m<sup>2</sup>/s.
Silicones that can be used according to preference can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
Preferably, silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS, and organomodified polysiloxanes which contain at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) Academie Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
When they are volatile, silicones are chosen more particularly from those with a boiling point between 60 ° C and 260 ° C, and more particularly:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes having 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. For example, octamethylcyclotetrasilsiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone 7207® by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentassiloxane sold under the name Volatile
Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione® 70045 V 5 by Rhodia, as well as their mixtures.
Dimethylsiloxanes / methylalkylsiloxane-type cyclopolymers, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by
Union Carbide, formula:
D-D'- DD '
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0002.tif" />
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0003.tif" />
with D: - Si-O— with D ': -Si-ΟΙ I
CH<sub>3</sub> θ8 ^ 17
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrassiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrassiloxane and oxy-1,1 '(hexa-2,2) , 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bisneopentane;
(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes which have 2 to 9 silicon atoms and have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 '<sup>6</sup>m<sup>2</sup>/ s at 25 ° C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones that fall into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - Todd & Byers “Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.
Preferably, non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, 15 polydialkylsiloxanes gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified by the above organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof are used.
These silicones are chosen more particularly among the polyalkylsiloxanes, among which we can mention mainly the polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 ° C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.
Among these polyhydiquylsiloxanes, the following commercial products can be mentioned without limitation:
- Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils marketed by Rhodia such as, for example, 70 047 V 500 000 oil;
- Dow Corning 200 series oils such as DC200 which has a viscosity of 60,000 mm<sup>z</sup>/s;
- General Electric's Viscasil® oils and certain oils from General Electric's SF 5 series (SF 96, SF 18).
One can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups, known by the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as Rhodia 48 series oils.
Within this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also mention the 10 products sold under the names “Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801” by
Goldschmidt that are polydialkyl (C<sub>r</sub>Ç<sub>2</sub>o) siloxanes.
The silicone gums usable in accordance with the present invention are in particular polydiorganosiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxanes oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxanes oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylene, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecans or mixtures thereof.
Products most particularly usable according to the present invention are mixtures such that:
- mixtures formed from a hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane at the chain end, or dimethicone (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) as the product
Q2 1401 sold by Dow Corning;
- mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as General Electric's SF 1214 Silicone Fluid product. This product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, with a weight ι
I
I ί
average molecular number 500,000 solubilized in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid oil which corresponds to decamethylcyclopentassiloxane;
- mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product
General Electric's SF 1236. The SF 1236 product is a mixture of an SE gum defined above with a viscosity of 20 m<sup>2</sup>/ se of an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5.10 '<sup>6</sup> m<sup>2</sup>/s. This product preferably contains 15% SE 30 gum and 85% SF 96 oil.
The organopolysiloxane resins usable according to the invention are silicate retilculated systems containing the units:
R2S1O2 / 2) R3S1O1 / 2, RS1O3 / 2 and S1O4 / 2, in which R represents an alkyl having from 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, the most particularly preferred are those in which R designates a lower alkyl group with C1-C4, more particularly methyl.
Among these resins we can mention the product sold under the name “Dow Corning 593” or those sold under the designations “Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267” by General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure .
One can also mention the trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X215037 by Shin-Etsu.
The organomodified silicones usable in accordance with the present invention are silicones as defined above and contain in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed through a hydrocarbon radical.
In addition to the silicones described above, organomodified silicones can be polydiaryl diloxanes, in particular polyphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl arylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above.
Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenyl siloxanes with viscosity ranging from 1.10 '<sup>5</sup> at 5.10 '<sup>2</sup>m<sup>2</sup>/ s at 25 ° C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes we can mention, by way of example, products sold under the following names:
- Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;
- oils from Rhodia's Rhodorsil ® 70 633 and 763 series;
- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grad Fluid oil from Dow Corning;
- Bayer PK series silicones as the PK20 product;
- Bayer PN, PH series silicones such as PN1000 and PH1000 products;
- certain oils from General Electric's SF series such as SF 1023,
SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
Among the organomodified silicones, we can mention the polyorganosiloxanes that contain:
- polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups that may contain C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 oils Union Carbide and the (C12) alkyl methicone copolyol marketed by Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;
- amino groups substituted or not, such as products marketed under the name of GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by Genesee or products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;
- alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name of Silicone Copolymer F-755 ”by Sws Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt.
Preferably, the fatty body is a liquid compound at a temperature of 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure.
Preferably, the fatty body is chosen from petroleum jelly, polydecenes, liquid esters or mixtures thereof.
The anhydrous cosmetic composition has a fatty content advantageously comprised between 10 and 99%, preferably between 20 and 90% by weight, and more particularly between 25 and 80% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
The anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) also comprises one or more surfactants.
More particularly, the surfactant (s) are chosen from the 15 non-ionic surfactants or from the anionic surfactants.
Anionic surfactants are most particularly chosen among the salts (in particular alkali metal salts, especially sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium) of the following compounds:
- alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethers sulphates, alkyl amido ethers sulphates, alkyl aryl polyethersulphates, monoglyceride sulphates;
- alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates;
- alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates;
- alkyl sulfosuccinates; alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates; alkylsulfosucinamates;
- alkyl sulfoacetates;
- acyl sarcosinates; acylisetionates and N-acyltaurates;
- salts of fatty acids such as oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, acids from copra oil or hydrogenated copra oil;
- the salts of uronic alkyl D galactoside acids;
- acyl-lactylates;
- salts of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
- and their mixtures.
It should be noted that the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds advantageously comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably designates a phenyl or benzyl group.
Nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen among mono- or polyoxyalkylene, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene, oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
As an oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant, we can mention:
• oxyalkylenated (C8-C24) alkyl phenols,
<td></td><td colspan="3">• alcohols with C8-C30,</td><td>saturated</td><td>or</td><td>not,</td><td>linear</td><td>or</td>
<td>branched,</td><td>oxyalkylene,</td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td>
<td></td><td>• amides,</td><td>with</td><td>C8-C30,</td><td>saturated</td><td>or</td><td>not,</td><td>linear</td><td>or</td>
<td>branched,</td><td>oxyalkylene,</td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td>
<td></td><td>• amines</td><td>with</td><td>C8-C30,</td><td>saturated</td><td>or</td><td>not,</td><td>linear</td><td>or</td>
branched, oxyalkylenated, • esters of acids with C8-C30, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols, • esters of acids with C8-C<sub>30</sub>, saturated or not, linear or branched, and polyoxyethylene sorbitol, • oxyethylene vegetable oils, saturated or not, · ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates, among others, alone or with mixtures.
The surfactants have a number of moieties of ethylene oxide and / or propylene comprised between 1 and 50, preferably between 2 and 30. Advantageously, non-ionic surfactants do not comprise oxypropylene units.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the oxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants are chosen from the C6-C30 alcohols, oxyethylenated.
As an example of mono- or poly15 glycerolated nonionic surfactants, alcohols with C8-C40, mono- or polyglycerolates are preferably used.
In particular, C8-C40 mono- or poly-glycerol alcohols correspond to the following formula:
RO- [CH<sub>2</sub>-CH (CH2OH) -O]<sub>m</sub>-H in which R represents a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical with C8-C40, preferably with C8-C30, β m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10.
As an example of suitable compounds within the scope of the present invention, mention may be made of lauric alcohol with 4 mois of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauric alcohol with 1.5 mois of glycerol, 0 alcohol oleic co, 4 mois of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), 0 oleic alcohol with 2 mois of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol with 2 mois of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 mois of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moieties of glycerol, and octanodecanol with 6ols of glycerol.
Alcohol can represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product several types of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols can coexist as a mixture.
Among mono- or poly-glycerol alcohols, it is more preferable to use alcohol with Ce / Cw with one mole of glycerol, alcohol with C10 / C12 with 1 mole of glycerol and 0 alcohol with C<sub>12</sub> with 1.5 mol of glycerol.
Preferably, the surfactant present in the anhydrous composition is a nonionic surfactant.
The content of surfactants in the anhydrous composition (A), more particularly represents from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition.
The anhydrous composition (A) can also contain several adjuvants used classically in hair coloring compositions, such as anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickening agents, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; organic thickeners, with, in particular, anionic, cationic, non-ionic and amphoteric associative polymeric thickeners; antioxidant agents; penetrating agents; sequestering agents; Perfumes; dispersing agents; filmogenic agents; ceramides; preservative agents; opacifying agents.
The above adjuvants are present in an amount comprised between 0.01 and 20% by weight with respect to the weight of the composition (A).
According to an advantageous variant of the present invention, the anhydrous composition (A) comprises at least one silica, preferably of a hydrophobic character, such as fumed silicas.
When present, silicas represent 1 to 30% by weight with respect to the weight of the anhydrous composition (A).
Advantageously, the composition is in the form of a gel or a cream.
As indicated above, the process according to the present invention is carried out in the presence of a composition (B) which comprises one or more oxidizing agents.
More particularly, the oxidizing agent (s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as alkali metal persulfates, perborates and percarbonates alkaline earth, and peracids and their precursors.
This oxidizing agent is advantageously constituted by hydrogen peroxide 15 and in particular with aqueous solution (hydrogen peroxide) whose titer can vary, more particularly, from 1 to 40 volumes, and more preferably from 5 to 40 volumes.
Depending on the degree of whitening desired, the oxidizing agent may also comprise an oxidizing agent chosen preferably from the peroxygenated salts.
Preferably, the oxidizing agent is not chosen from the peroxygenated salts and the peracids and precursors.
The oxidizing composition can be aqueous or not. An aqueous composition means a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.
Preferably, composition (C) is an aqueous composition.
It can also comprise one or more organic solvents.
As an organic solvent, for example, alkanols, linear or branched, with C2-C4, such as ethanol and isopropanol; 0 glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, le propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and 0 diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
The solvent or solvents, if present, represent a content which usually ranges from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (C), and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.
The oxidizing composition (B) can comprise one or more acidifying agents.
Among acidifying agents, we can mention, for example, mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid,
0 sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition (B), when it is aqueous, is below 7.
The oxidizing composition (B) can also contain another 20 ingredients classically used in the field considered, as in particular those that have been detailed previously for the anhydrous composition (A).
Finally, the oxidizing composition (B) comes in various forms, such as a solution, an emulsion or a gel.
The process according to the present invention is carried out in the presence of a composition (C) which comprises one or more oxidation dyes, one or more direct dyes, or mixtures thereof.
Oxidation dyes are, in general, chosen from the oxidation bases possibly combined with one or more couplers.
As an example, oxidation bases are chosen from paraphenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.
Examples of paraphenylenediamines include paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-chloro-paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethylparaphenylenediamine, 2,6 2,5-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-dimethylparaphenylenediamine, Ν, Ν-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl10 paraphenylenediamine, 4-amino-N, N-diethyl-3-methyl-aniline, to N , N-bis- (phidroxyethyl) -paraphenylenediamine, to 4-N, N-bis- (p-hydroxyethyl) amino 2-methyl aniline, to 4-NN-bis- (p-hydroxyethyl) -amino 2-chloroaniline, to 2-p-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, to 2 -fluoro paraphenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, N- (p-hydroxypropyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, paraphenylenediamine), N- (P, y-dihydroxypropyl) paraphenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) paraphenylenediamine, N-phenyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-phidroxyethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, 2-p-acetylaminoethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, N- (p-methoxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-aminophenyl pyrrolidine, 2-thienyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-p-hydroxyethylamino, 5-hydroxyethylamino 5 hydroxy 1- (4'aminophenyl) pyrrolidine and its addition salts with an acid.
Among the paraphenylenediamines mentioned above, paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-p-hydroxyethylparaphenylenediamine, 2-p-hydroxyethyloxy paraphenylenediamine,
2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (p-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro paraphenylenediamine, 2-p-acetylaminoethyloxy paraphenylenediamine , and their acid addition salts are particularly preferred.
Among bis-phenylalkylenediamines, N, N'-bis- (p-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) 1,3-diamino propanol, to N , N'-bis- (P-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, to N, N'-bis- (4aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, to N, N'-bis- (p- hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (45 aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-methyl-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (ethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-amino, 3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts.
Examples of para-aminophenols include para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methyl-phenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino3-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methyl phenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4 amino-2- methoxymethyl- phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethyl phenol, 4-amino-2- (Phidroxyethyl-aminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluoro phenol, and their addition salts with an acid.
Among the ortho-aminophenols, 2 amino phenol, 2-amino 5-methyl phenol, 2-amino 6-methyl phenol, 5-acetamido-2aminophenol, and their addition salts can be mentioned.
Among heterocyclic bases, pyridinic derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazolic derivatives can be mentioned for example.
Among the pyridine derivatives, we can mention the compounds described for example in the patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5diamino-pyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-amino-pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, and its addition salts.
Other oxidation bases useful in the present invention are the 3-amino pyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyridines oxidation bases or their addition salts described for example in patent application FR 2801308. As an example, pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-acetylamino pyrazolo- [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 3r aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-carboxylic acid; 2-methoxy-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3-amino; o (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-7-yl) -methanol; 2- (3-aminopyracolo [1,5-a] pyridine-5-yl) -ethanol; 2- (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-7-yl) ethanol; o (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-2-yl) -methanol; 3,6-diamino5 pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; 3,4-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; pyrazolo [1,5a] pyridine-3,7-diamine; 7-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,5-diamine; 5-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3ylamine; o 2 - [(3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino] -ethanol; o 2 - [(3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino] -ethanol; 3-amino10 pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-5-ol; 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-4-ol; 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-6-ol; 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-7-ol; as well as their addition salts.
Among the pyrimidine derivatives, we can mention more particularly the compounds described, for example, in the German patents DE
23 59 399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-163124; EP 0 770 375 or in patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetra-aminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine , 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and its addition salts and tautomeric forms, when there is a tautomeric balance.
Among the pyrazolic derivatives, we can mention the compounds described in DE 38 43 892, DE 41 33 957 and in patent applications WO 94/08969, WO / 08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5diamino 1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1 - (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole), 3,4-diamino pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 3-methyl 1-phenyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1-methyl 3-phenyl pyrazole, 4-amino 1,3-dimethyl 5-hydrazine pyrazole, 1-benzyl 4,5-diamino 3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 3-tert-butyl 1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1-tert-butyl 3methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1- (P-hydroxyethyl) -3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1-ethyl
3-methyl pyrazole, o4,5-diamino 1-ethyl 3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1-ethyl 3-hydroxymethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 3-hydroxymethyl 1-methyl pyrazole , the 4,5-diamino
3-hydroxymethyl 1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 3-methyl 1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4amino 5- (2'-aminoethyl) amino 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 3,4,5-triamine pyrazole, 1-methyl
3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino 1-methyl 4-methylamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino
4- (p-hydroxyethyl) amino 1-methyl pyrazole, and its addition salts. 4,5-diamino 1- (P-methoxyethyl) pyrazole can also be used.
As a heterocyclic base, 2,3-diamino 6,7 dihydro 1H5H [pyrazolo 1,2a] pyrazol-1-one or one of its salts can also be mentioned.
The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those that are conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibers.
Among these couplers, we can mention in particular meta15 phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers as well as their addition salts.
For example, 1,3-dihydroxy benzene, 1,3-dihydroxy 2-methyl benzene, 4-chlorine 1,3-dihydroxy benzene, 2,4-diamino 1- (βhydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-amino 4- (Bhydroxyethylamino) 1-methoxybenzene, 1,320 diamino benzene, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-ureido aniline, 3ureido 1-dimethylamino benzene, sesamol, 1-B-hydroxyethylamino-3,4methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxy indole, 4-hydroxy indole, 4-hydroxy N-methyl indole, 2-amino-3-hydroxy pyridine, 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxy pyridine, 1-N- (B-hydroxyethyl) amino25 3,4-methylene dioxibenzene, o 2, 6-bis- (B-hydroxyethylamino) toluene, 6-hydroxy indoline, 2,6-dihydroxy 4-methyl pyridine, 1-H-3-methyl pyrazole 5-one, 1-phenyl-3 methyl pyrazole 5- one, 2,6-dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-b] -1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl [3,2c] -1,2,4 triazole, 6-methyl pyrazole [ 1,5-a] -benzimidazole, and its addition salts with an acid, and mixtures thereof.
In general, the addition salts of oxidation bases and couplers are chosen in particular from acid addition salts such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzene sulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
The oxidation base (s) each advantageously represents 0.0001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
If the coupler (s) is (are) present, it (s) each advantageously represents 0.0001 to 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, and preferably 0.005 at 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
With regard to direct dyes, they are more particularly chosen among tonic or non-tonic species, preferably cationic or non-ionic.
Examples of suitable direct dyes include azo dyes; metinic; carbonyls; azinics; nitrated (hetero) aryl;
tri (hetero) aryl methanes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.
More particularly, azo dyes comprise an N = N- function whose two nitrogen atoms are not simultaneously inserted in a cycle. However, the possibility that one of the two nitrogen atoms in the chain (chain) -N = N- is inserted in a cycle is not excluded.
The dyes of the metine family are more particularly compounds that comprise at least one chain (chain) chosen from C = C <and -N = C <whose two atoms are not simultaneously inserted in a cycle. It should be noted, however, that one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms in the chains may be inserted in a cycle. More particularly, the dyes of this family come from compounds of the type methine, azomethine, mono- and di-arylmethane, indoamines (or diphenylamines), indophenols, indoanilines, carbocyanines, azacabocyanines and their isomers, diazacarbocyanines and their isomers, tetraazacharines
With regard to the dyes of the carbonyl family, mention can be made, for example, of the dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzantrone, antrantrone, pirantrone, pyrazolantrone, pyrimidinoantrone, flavantrone, idantrone, flavone, (iso) violantrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigo, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, dicetopyrrolopyrrole, coumarin.
As the dye in the cyclic azine family, one can mention in particular azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindin, acridine, (di) oxazine, (di) thiazine, pyronine.
The aromatic nitrated (hetero) dyes are more particularly 20 direct benzene nitrated or pyridine nitrated dyes.
With regard to porphyrin or phthalocyanine dyes, cationic or non-cationic compounds may be used, which eventually comprise one or more metals or metal ions, such as alkali and alkaline earth metals, zinc and silicon.
As an example of particularly suitable direct dyes, we can mention the direct dyes of the benzene series; direct azo dyes; azometinics; metinic; azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); direct quinonic dyes and in particular anthraquinones, naphthoquinones or benzoquinones; direct azine dyes; xanthenic; triarylmetallic; indoamines; indigoids; phthalocyanines, porphyrins and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.
Such dyes may be monochromatic (that is to say, that comprise only one dye) or polychromorphic, preferably dior trichromorphic; and the chromophores can be identical or not, from the same chemical family or not. It should be noted that a polychromophoric dye comprises several radicals, each coming from a molecule that absorbs in the visible domain (field) between 400 and 800 nm. Furthermore, this absorbance of the dye does not require the oxidation of that dye, nor does it require association with other chemical species (s).
In the case of polychromophoric dyes, the chromophores are linked between each other by at least one connecting arm that can be cationic or not.
Preferably, the connecting arm is an alkyl chain with Cr
Ç<sub>2</sub>o, linear, branched or cyclic, eventually interrupted by at least one hetero atom (such as nitrogen, oxygen) and / or by at least one group comprising hetero atoms (CO, SO<sub>2</sub>), possibly interrupted by at least one heterocycle condensed or not with a phenyl nucleus and comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom inserted in the said cycle and possibly at least one other heteroatom (such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur), possibly interrupted by at least one substituted or unsubstituted phenyl or naphthyl group, eventually at least one warm quaternary group substituted by two alkyl groups with
Ci-C<sub>15</sub> eventually replaced; the connecting arm does not comprise a nitro, nitrous or peroxo group.
If aromatic heterocycles or nuclei are replaced, they are, for example, replaced by one or more alkyl radicals with C- | -C<sub>8</sub> eventually replaced by a hydroxy group, C 1 -C alkoxy<sub>2</sub>, hydroxyalkoxy with C<sub>2</sub>-Ç<sub>4</sub>, acetylamino, amino substituted by one or two C1-C4 alkyl radicals, possibly carrying at least one hydroxyl group or the two radicals can form with a nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, comprising possibly another heteroatom identical or different from nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; an alkoxy radical with Ci-C<sub>2</sub>; a hydroxyalkoxy radical with C<sub>2</sub>Ç<sub>4;</sub> an amino radical; an amino radical substituted by one or two alkyl radicals, identical or different, with C1-C4 possibly carrying at least one hydroxyl group.
Among the benzene direct dyes that can be used in accordance with the present invention, the following compounds may be mentioned without limitation:
-1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene
-1-amino-2 nitro-4-bis-p-hydroxyethylaminobenzene
-1-amino-2 nitro-4-bis (P ~ hydroxyethyl) -aminobenzene
-1,4-Bis (p-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene
-ip-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis<sub>T</sub>(3-hydroxyethylamino) -benzene
-1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene
-1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4- (ethyl) (p-hydroxyethyl) -aminobenzene
-1-amino-3-methyl-4-p-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene
-1-amino-2-nitro-4-0-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene
-1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene
-1-amino-2-p-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene
-1,2-Bis- (p-hydroxyethylamino) -4-nitrobenzene
-1-amino-2-tris- (hydroxymethyl) -methylamino-5-nitrobenzene
-1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene
-1-hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene
-1-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene
-1-p-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene
-1-P-hydroxyethyloxy-2-p-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene
-1-methoxy-2-p-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene
-1-P-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene
-1-p, y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene
-1-p-hydroxyethylamino-4-.p, y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene -l-β, y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene -l-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl- 2-nitrobenzene -l-β -hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene
-l-β aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene
-1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene
-1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene
-1-hydroxy-6-bis- (p-hydroxyethyl) -amino-3-nitrobenzene
-1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene
-1-hydroxy-4-p-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.
Among the direct azo dyes, azomethines, methines or tetraaapentamethines usable according to the present invention, cationic dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144,
WO-95/01772 and EP-714954 EP 714954; FR 2189006, FR 2285851, FR20 2140205, EP 1378544, EP 1674073.
Thus, the following dyes of formulas (I) to (IV) can be mentioned in particular, and preferably the compounds of formulas (I) and (III):
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0004.tif" />
in which:
D represents a nitrogen atom or the -CH group,
Ri and R<sub>2</sub>, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; a C1-C4 alkyl radical that can be replaced by a -CN, -OH or -NH radical<sub>2</sub> or form, with a carbon atom of the benzene cycle, an eventually oxygenated or nitrogenous heterocycle, which can be replaced by one or more alkyl radicals with C1-C4; a radical
4'-aminophenyl,
R<sub>3</sub> and R '<sub>3</sub>, identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a cyano radical, C1-C4 alkyl, C1-C4 alkoxy or acetyloxy,
X 'represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate,
A represents a group chosen by structures A1 to A18 indicated below:
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0005.tif" />
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0006.tif" />
<sup>Α</sup>16 Α<sub>17</sub><sup>Α</sup>18 in which R<sub>4</sub> represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical that can be replaced by a hydroxyl radical and R<sub>5</sub> represents an alkoxy radical with
C1-C4;
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0007.tif" />
in which:
R<sub>6</sub> represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical with
C1-C4,
R<sub>7</sub> represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical that can be replaced by a -CN radical or an amino group, a 4'aminophenyl radical or forms with R6 an eventually oxygenated and / or nitrogenous heterocycle that can be replaced by an alkyl radical with C1-C4,
R<sub>8</sub> and Rg, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or C1-C4 alkoxy, a -CN radical,
X 'represents an anion preferably chosen from 0 chloride, 150 methyl sulfate and acetate,
B represents a group chosen by structures B1 to B6 indicated below:
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0008.tif" />
B1 B2 B3
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0009.tif" />
where R-ιο represents an alkyl radical with C<sub>r</sub>C4, Rn and R12, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical,
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0010.tif" />
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0011.tif" />
in which:
R13 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkoxy radical with C1C<sub>4</sub>, a halogen atom such as bromine, 0 chlorine, iodine or fluorine,
R<sub>14</sub> represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or forms with a carbon atom of the benzene cycle a heterocycle possibly oxygenated and / or substituted by one or more alkyl groups with
C1-C4,
R15 represents a hydrogen or halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or 0 fluorine,
R<sub>16</sub> and R17, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C-1-C4 alkyl radical,
D1 and D<sub>2</sub>, identical or different, represent a nitrogen atom or the -CH group, m = 0 or 1, it should be clear that when R<sub>13</sub> represent an unsubstituted amino group, in this case Dí and D<sub>2</sub> simultaneously represent a CH group at = 0,
X 'represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate,
E represents a group chosen by the structures E1 to E8 indicated below:
R'— N +
O
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0012.tif" />
E1
The 'N' ^ 'N +
N N +
R '
E4
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0013.tif" />
IN
R '/
-N +
E3
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0014.tif" />
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0015.tif" />
et
N +
I
R '
E7
R '
E8 in which R 'represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical; when m = 0 and that Di represents a nitrogen atom, in this case E can also designate a group of structure E9 indicated below:
E9
R 'kl
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0016.tif" />
N +
R 'in which R' represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical<sub>4</sub>.
GN = NJ (IV) in which:
the symbol G represents a group chosen from the structures 10 Gi to G<sub>3</sub> indicated below:
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0017.tif" />
structures to G3 in which,
Ris designates a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical that can be replaced by a C / -C4 alkyl radical or a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine;
R19 designates a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical;
R20 θ R21, identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical, or together form in G1 a benzene cycle substituted by one or more C1-C4 alkyl radicals, C1-C4 alkoxy, or NO<sub>2</sub>, or form together in G<sub>2</sub> a benzene cycle eventually replaced by one or more alkyl radicals with C<sub>r</sub>C4, C1-C4 alkoxy, or NO<sub>2</sub>;
R20 can also designate a hydrogen atom;
Z designates an oxygen, sulfur atom or a -NR19 group;
M represents a group -CH, -CR (and R denotes alkyl with C<sub>r</sub>
C4), or -NR22 (X) p
K represents a -CH, -CR group (ER designates C1C alkyl<sub>4</sub>), or -NR<sub>22</sub>(X-)<sub>r</sub>;
P represents a group -CH, -CR (ER designates C1-C4 alkyl), or -NR<sub>22</sub>(X-) r; r designates zero or 1;
R<sub>22</sub> represents an O atom<sup>-</sup>, a C1-C4 alkoxy radical, or a C1-C4 alkyl radical;
R23 and R<sub>2</sub>4, identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, an alkyl radical with C ^ Cq, alkoxy with C1-C4, a -NO radical<sub>2</sub>;
X<sup>-</sup> represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate and perchlorate;
provided that if R<sub>2</sub>2 designate O ”, in this case r designates zero;
if K or P or M designate -N-C1-C4 alkyl X ~, in this case R<sub>2</sub>3 or R<sub>24</sub>it is or is not different from a hydrogen atom;
if K designates -NR<sub>22</sub>(X<sup>-</sup>)<sub>r</sub>, in this case M = P = -CH, -CR; if M designates -NR<sub>22</sub>(X ') r - in this case K = P = -CH, -CR;
if P designates -NR<sub>22</sub>(X ') r. in this case K = M and designate -CH or -CR;
if Z designates a sulfur atom with R<sub>21</sub> designating alkyl with C1-C4, in this case R<sub>2</sub>o is different from a hydrogen atom;
if Z designates -NR<sub>22</sub> with R19 designating alkyl with C1-C4, in this case at least one of the radicals R<sub>18</sub>, R20 or R<sub>2</sub>i from structure group 10 G<sub>2</sub> it is different from a C1-C4 alkyl radical;
the symbol J represents:
- (a) a group of structure J1 indicated below:
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0018.tif" />
J1 structure in which,
R25 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom 15 chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, C1-C4 alkoxy, a -OH, -NO radical<sub>2</sub>, -NHR<sub>2</sub>8, -NR29R30. -NHCOalkyl with C-iC<sub>4</sub>, or shape with R<sub>2</sub>6 a cycle with 5 or 6 members that may or may not contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur;
R<sub>26</sub> represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom 20 chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, C1-C4 alkoxy, or forms with R27 or R<sub>2</sub>8 a cycle with 5 or 6 members that contains or does not contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from 0 nitrogen, 0 oxygen or sulfur;
R27 represents a hydrogen atom, an -OH radical, an -NHR radical<sub>2</sub>8, a -NR29R30 radical;
R28 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical with
C1-C4, a monohydroxyalkyl radical with C1-C4, polyhydroxyalkyl with C<sub>2</sub>-Ç<sub>4</sub>, a phenyl radical;
R<sub>2</sub>g and R30, identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 monohydroxyalkyl radical, C2-C4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical;
- (b) a nitrogenous heterocyclic group with 5 or 6 members capable of containing other heteroatoms and / or carbonyl groups and which can be substituted by one or more alkyl radicals with CrC4, amino or phenyl, and in particular a group of structure J<sub>2</sub> indicated below:
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0019.tif" />
structure J<sub>2</sub> in which,
R31 θ R32, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical;
Y designates the radical -CO- or 0 radical -<sup>ç</sup>=; n = 0 or 1, where, when n designates 1, U designates 0 CO-radical.
In structures (I) to (IV) defined above, the alkyl or alkoxy group 20 with C1-C4 preferably designates methyl, ethyl, butyl, methoxy, ethoxy.
Among the compounds of formulas (I) and (III), the following compounds are preferred:
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0020.tif" />
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0021.tif" />
The following dyes, described in the Color Index International 3, can also be mentioned among the direct azo dyes.<sup>The</sup> edition:
-Disperse Red 17 -Basic Red 22
-Basic Red 76
-Basic Yellow 57
-Basic Brown 16
-Basic Brown 17 -Disperse Black 9.
One can also cite 1- (4'-aminodiphenylazo) -2-methyl-4-bis- (phidroxyethyl) aminobenzene.
Among the quinonic direct dyes, the following dyes can be mentioned:
- Disperse Red 15
- Solvent Violet 13
- Disperse Violet 1
- Disperse Violet 4
- Disperse Blue 1
- Disperse Violet 8
- Disperse Blue 3
- Disperse Red 11
- Disperse Blue 7
- Basic Blue 22
- Disperse Violet 15
- Basic Blue 99 as well as the following compounds: -1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone
-1 -aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone
-1-aminopropylaminoanthraquinone -5-p-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone -2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone -1,4-Bis- (p, y-dihydroxypropylamino) -anthraquinone
Among azinic dyes, the following compounds can be mentioned:
- Basic Blue 17
-Basic Red 2
Among the triarylmetallic dyes usable according to the present invention, the following compounds can be mentioned:
- Basic Green 1
- Basic Violet 3
- Basic Violet 14
- Basic Blue 7
- Basic Blue 26
Among the Indamine dyes usable according to the present invention, the following compounds can be mentioned:
-2-p-hydroxyethylamino-5- [bis<sub>7</sub>(-4'-hydroxy (ethyl) amino] anilino-1,4benzoquinone
-2-p-hydroxyethylamino-5- (2'-methoxy-4'-amino) anilino-1,425 benzoquinone
-3-N (2'-Chloro-4'-hydroxy) phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4benzoquinone imine
-3-N (3'-Chloro-4'-methylamino) phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine
-3- [4'-N- (Ethyl, carbamylmethyl) -amino] -phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4benzoquinone imine.
Among the tetraazapentametine-type dyes that can be used according to the present invention, the compounds listed in
<img file="BRPI0806112A2_D0022.tif" />
X<sup>-</sup> represents an anion preferably chosen chosen from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate and perchlorate.
Among the polychromophoric dyes, 10 more can be mentioned, particularly the azoic and / or azometinic (hydrazonic) di- or tri-chromophoric dyes, symmetrical or not, which comprise, on the one hand, at least one aromatic heterocycle comprising 5 or 6 members, possibly condensed, comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom inserted in said heterocycle and possibly at least one other heteroatom (such as nitrogen, sulfur, oxygen), and on the other hand, at least one phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally substituted, possibly carrying at least one OR group with R representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical possibly substituted with Ci-C<sub>6</sub>, an eventually substituted phenyl nucleus, or at least one N (R ') group<sub>2 </sub>with R 'identical or not, which represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical optionally substituted by C1-C6, a phenyl nucleus possibly substituted; and the radicals R 'that can form with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a saturated heterocycle with 5 or 6 members, or even one and / or both radicals R' can each form with the carbon atom of the aromatic cycle placed on the ortho of the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle with 5 or 6 members.
As an aromatic cationic heterocycle, it is possible to mention, preferably, cycles with 5 or 6 members that comprise 1 to 3 nitrogen atoms, preferably 1 or 2 nitrogen atoms, one of which is quaternized; said heterocycle is furthermore possibly condensed with a benzene core. It should also be noted that the heterocycle may eventually comprise another heteroatom other than nitrogen, such as sulfur or oxygen.
If the heterocycles or phenyl or naphthyl groups are replaced, they are, for example, replaced by one or more alkyl radicals with C ^ C and eventually replaced by a hydroxy, alkoxy group with C-C<sub>2</sub>, hydroxyalkoxy with C<sub>2</sub>-Ç<sub>4</sub>, acetylamino, amino substituted by one or two C1-C4 alkyl radicals, possibly carrying at least one hydroxyl group or the two radicals that they can form with the nitrogen atom to which they are
I linked, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, which eventually comprises another heteroatom identical or different from nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; an alkoxy radical with Ci-C<sub>2</sub>; a hydroxyalkoxy radical with C<sub>2</sub>-Ç<sub>4</sub>; an amino radical; an amino radical substituted by one or two alkyl radicals, identical or different, with C1-C4 possibly carrying at least one hydroxyl group.
These polychromophores are linked together by at least one connecting arm that eventually comprises at least one quaternized nitrogen atom inserted or not in a saturated heterocycle or not, possibly aromatic.
Preferably, the connecting arm is a C1C20 alkyl chain, linear, branched or cyclic, eventually interrupted by at least one heteroatom (such as nitrogen, oxygen) and / or at least one group comprising them (CO , SO<sub>2</sub>), eventually interrupted by at least one heterocycle condensed or not with a phenyl nucleus and comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom inserted in the said cycle and possibly at least one other hetero atom (such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur), eventually interrupted by at least one substituted or unsubstituted phenyl or naphthyl group, possibly at least one quaternary ammonium group substituted by two possibly substituted C1-C15 alkyl groups; the connecting arm does not comprise a nitro, nitrous or peroxo group.
The connection between the connecting arm and each chromophore is usually made through a heteroatom that replaces the phenyl or naphthyl nucleus or through the quaternized nitrogen atom of the cationic heterocycle.
The dye can comprise identical or not identical chromophores.
Examples of such dyes include patent applications EP 1637566, EP 1619221, EP 1634926, EP 1619220,
EP 1672033, EP 1671954, EP 1671955, EP 1679312, EP 1671951, EP167952, EP167971, WO 06/063866, WO 06/063867, WO 06/063868, WO 06/063869, EP 1408919, EP 1377264, EP 1377262, EP 1377261 , EP 1377263, EP 1399425, EP 1399117, EP 1416909, EP 1399116, EP 1671560.
Direct cationic dyes mentioned in EP 1006153 applications can also be used, which describes dyes comprising two anthraquinone-type chromophores linked by means of a cationic binding arm; EP 1433472, EP 1433474, EP 1433471 and EP 1433473 which describe dicromophoric stains identical or not, attached to a cationic binding arm or not, as well as EP 6291333 which describes in particular dyes comprising three chromophores, one of which is one anthraquinone chromophore to which are attached two chromophores of the azo type or diazacarbocyanine or one of its isomers.
Among the natural direct dyes that can be used in accordance with the present invention, lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kerminic acid, purpurogalin, protocatecaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins. It is also possible to use extracts or decoctions that contain these natural dyes and in particular poultices or henna-based extracts.
When present, the direct dye (s) represent more particularly from 0.0001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight.
Composition (C) can comprise one and / or other types of dyes. It may possibly correspond to two coloring compositions, one comprising the oxidation dye (s), the other, the direct dye (s).
Another ingredient of composition (C) is represented by one or more organic amines whose pKb at 25 ° C is less than 12, preferably less than
10, and more preferably still less than 6.
It should be noted that this is the pKb that corresponds to the highest basicity function.
According to a first variant of the present invention, the organic amine comprises one or two primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, with Ci-Ca bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
Particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention are organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, which comprise one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, with C1-C4.
Among such compounds, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-115 propanol, triisopropanolamine, 0 2-amino-2 -methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino1,2-propanediol, 0 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, 0 trishhydroxymethylaminomethane.
Organic amines with the following formula are also suitable:
Rx Rz
N WN
Ry Rt in which W is a C1-C6 alkylene remainder optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1 -Cg alkyl radical or C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical.
One example of such amines is 1.3 diaminopropane, 1.3 diamino 2 propanol, spermine, spermidine.
According to another variant of the present invention, the organic amine is chosen from among the amino acids.
More particularly, the usable amino acids are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic form and have at least one acid function chosen more particularly among the carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric functions. Amino acids can be found in neutral or ionic form.
Advantageously, amino acids are basic amino acids that comprise an additional amine function that may be included in a cycle or in a ureid function.
These basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to the formula (I) indicated below:
NH<sub>2</sub> r — ch<sub>2</sub> —Ch<sub>x</sub> O)
CO<sub>2</sub>H where R designates a group chosen from:
[Formula] \\ /
MU— <
- (CH<sub>2</sub>)<sub>2</sub>NH
NH- (CH<sub>2</sub>)<sub>3</sub>NH<sub>2</sub>
- (CH<sub>2</sub>)<sub>2</sub>NH<sub>2</sub>
- (CH<sub>2</sub>)<sub>2</sub>NHCONH<sub>2</sub>;
-NH,
NH
The compounds corresponding to formula (I) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline.
As amino acids usable in the present invention, in particular, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
The amino acid (s) can be used in admixture with one or more solid or pasty adjuvants, and preferably powdery ones. Adjuvants can be chosen from clays, salts, anionic, nonionic, cationic or zwitterionic surfactants, natural or synthetic thickeners, possibly modified starch, glass spheres, silica, nylon, alumina , titanium dioxide, zeolites, poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), chitosan, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, mono- or disaccharides such as glucose, sucrose, sorbitol or fructose, oxide zinc, zirconium, silicabates, talc, borosilicates, in particular calcium, polyethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), cellulose and its derivatives, superabsorbent compounds, magnesium or calcium carbonates, polyacrylamide, porous hydroxyapatite, sawdust wood, fucus powder, cross-linked polyvinylpyrrolidone, calcium alginate, active charcoal, poly (vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile) particles, in particular those that are marketed under the general name "Expancel®" by Akzo Nobel under the particular references "Expancel® WE" or "DE" Expancels, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred variant of the present invention, the organic amine is chosen from among the acidic amino acids. Particularly preferred amino acids are arginine, lysine, histidine, or mixtures thereof.
According to another variant of the present invention, the organic amine is chosen from the organic amines of the heterocyclic type. In particular, in addition to the histidine already mentioned in amino acids, pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, benzimidazole can be mentioned.
According to another variant of the present invention, the organic amine is chosen from the amino acid dipeptides. The type of amino acid dipeptides usable in the present invention, in particular can be mentioned carnosine, anserine and whale.
According to another variant of the present invention, the organic amine is chosen from compounds that have a guanidine function.
As such amines usable in the present invention, we can mention in particular the arginine already mentioned as amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyanine, metformin, agmatine , n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4guanidinobutyric acid and 2 - ([amino (imino) methyl] amino) ethane-1-sulfonic acid.
Preferably the organic amine present in the anhydrous composition is an alkanolamine. More preferably, the organic amine is chosen from 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, monoethanolamine or mixtures thereof. Most preferably, the organic amine is monoethanolamine.
Advantageously, composition (C) has an organic amine content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of said composition.
Composition (C) can be an anhydrous or aqueous composition. By aqueous composition, it is meant a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, more advantageously still more than 20% by weight of water.
Preferably, composition (C) is an aqueous composition.
The composition may optionally comprise one or more solvents. Those mentioned in the description of the aqueous composition (B) may be appropriate for the composition (C), in the same concentrations specified therein.
Composition (C) can also comprise classic additives such as those listed above and this list can be consulted.
The pH of the composition (C) if it is aqueous is included
I
I between 2 and 12, preferably between 8 and 11. The pH is adjusted by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents, such as those mentioned above.
According to a first variant of the present invention, compositions (A), (B) and (C) are applied on keratin fibers, dry or wet, successively and without intermediate rinsing, more particularly the compositions ( A) then (C) after (B) or (C) then (A) after (B).
A particular embodiment of this variant is to apply successively and without intermediate rinsing the composition that results from the mixture prior to the application of the compositions (A) and (C) and then the oxidizing composition (B).
According to a second variant of the process, a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing before the application of the compositions (A), (B) and (C) is applied to the keratin fibers, dry or wet.
According to these variants, and in particular in this last variant, the weight ratios R1 of the quantities of compositions (A) + (C) / (B) and R2 of the quantities of compositions (A) / (C) vary from 0.1 to 10, and preferably 0.3 to 3.
According to a preferred mode, the aqueous oxidizing composition (B) represents 50% to 70% of the total weight of the mixture of compositions (A), (B) and (C) to be applied on the hair.
In addition, regardless of the variant used, the mixture present on the fibers (which results either from the extemporaneous mixing of the compositions, or from the successive application of these compositions) is left in place for a time, in general, on the order of 1 minute to 1 hour , preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes,
The temperature during the process is classically between room temperature (between 15 to 25 ° C) and 80 ° C, preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C.
At the end of the treatment, the human keratin fibers are eventually rinsed with water, they are eventually washed with a shampoo followed by a rinse with water, before being dried or allowed to dry.
It should be clear that if the composition applied to the hair (comprising compositions (A), (B) and (C)) comprises ammonia, its content would preferably be less than or equal to 0.03% by weight of the final composition ( expressed in NH3), more particularly less than or equal to 0.01% by weight with respect to the final composition. It has been indicated that the final composition results from the mixture of compositions (A), (B) and (C); and these mixtures are carried out either before application on keratin fibers (extemporaneous preparation) or directly on keratin fibers (successive applications with or without pre-mixes and without intermediate rinsing).
But compositions (A), (B) and (C) do not preferably comprise ammonia.
Finally, the present invention deals with a device with several compartments comprising a first compartment containing the anhydrous composition (A) mentioned, a second compartment containing a composition (B) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, and a third compartment a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidation dyes, one or more direct dyes or mixtures thereof and one or more organic amines of pKb less than 12 to 25 ° C.
The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without, however, being of a limiting character.
Example 1
The following compositions (quantities expressed in grams) were prepared:
Composition (A)
<td>Oxyethylenated sorbitan mono-laurate (4OE)</td><td> 21,67</td>
<td>Hydrogenous fumed silica</td><td> 11</td>
<td>Vaseline oil</td><td>Qsp 100</td>
Composition (C)
<td>Paraphenylene diamine</td><td> 6,55</td>
<td>Resorcinol</td><td> 4,95</td>
<td>2-methyl-resorcinol</td><td> 1,86</td>
<td>2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol HCI</td><td> 0,15</td>
<td>Sodium metabisulphite</td><td> 0,455</td>
<td>Erythorbic acid</td><td> 0,31</td>
<td>Pure monoethanolamine</td><td> 40,07</td>
<td>Water</td><td>Qsp 100</td>
At the time of use, the following were mixed:
- 9 parts by weight of the composition (A)
-1 part by weight of the composition (C)
- 10 parts by weight of an aqueous oxidizing composition comprising 6% hydrogen peroxide at pH 2.3 and comprising approximately 80% water.
The mixture obtained, the pH of which is approximately 10, is then applied on a natural hair lock with 90% white (BN) and on a permanent BN lock (BP).
The break time is 30 minutes at room temperature.
After that time, the strands are rinsed, and then washed with Elseve multivitamin shampoo.
As shown in the table below, the composition of the present invention leads to a matte, intense and poorly selective coloring.
<td></td><td>L *</td><td>The*</td><td>B*</td><td>Selectivity</td>
<td>BN</td><td> 20,37</td><td> 2,53</td><td> 3,83</td><td rowspan="2"> 3,18</td>
<td>BP</td><td> 17,78</td><td> 1,68</td><td> 2,19</td>
Example 2
The following compositions were prepared: Composition (A) (identical to Example 1)
Composition (C)
<td>1-hydroxy-4-amino-benzene</td><td> 3,27</td>
<td>2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine</td><td> 3,30</td>
<td>Sodium metabisulphite</td><td> 0,455</td>
<td>Erythorbic acid</td><td> 0,31</td>
<td>Pure monoethanolamine</td><td> 40,0</td>
<td>Polyglycerolated oleic alcohol with 2 glycerol cores</td><td> 2,1</td>
<td>Polyglycerolated oleic alcohol with 4 glycerol cores</td><td>3.0 MA</td>
<td>Oleic acid</td><td> 1,58</td>
<td>Oleic amine with 2 cores of ethylene oxide (Ethomeen 012 / Akzo)</td><td> 3,69</td>
<td>Diethylaminopropyl laurylamino succinate, sodium salt (55% active matter)</td><td>1.58 MA</td>
<td>Oleic alcohol</td><td> 2,64</td>
<td>Oleic acid diethanolamide</td><td> 6,32</td>
<td>Ethyl alcohol</td><td> 3,69</td>
<td>Propylene glycol</td><td> 1,84</td>
<td>Dipropylene glycol</td><td> 0,26</td>
<td>Propylene glycol monomethyl ether</td><td> 4,74</td>
<td>Qsp demineralized water</td><td>Qsp 100</td>
Staining is carried out under the same conditions as detailed in Example 1.
As shown in the table below, the composition of the present invention leads to an intense and poorly selective copper.
<td></td><td>L *</td><td>The*</td><td>B*</td><td>Selectivity</td>
<td>BN</td><td> 42,23</td><td> 19,29</td><td> 29,42</td><td rowspan="2"> 2,09</td>
<td>BP</td><td> 42,47</td><td> 21,34</td><td> 29,73</td>
Contents22
17 members in 9 offices
Priority claims1
| Document | Office | Kind | Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0760273 | France | A |
Members17
| Document | Office | Kind | |
|---|---|---|---|
| MX2008016534A | Mexico | A | |
| EP2072034A1 | European Patent Office (EPO) | A1 | |
| KR20090068182A | Republic of Korea | A | |
| FR2925307A1 | France | A1 | |
| JP2009149647A | Japan | A | |
| CN101491487A | China | A | |
| US2009191142A1 | United States of America | A1 | |
| BRPI0806112A2This record | Brazil | A2 | |
| FR2925307B1 | France | B1 | |
| US7901464B2 | United States of America | B2 | |
| KR101118934B1 | Republic of Korea | B1 | |
| CN101491487B | China | B | |
| EP2072034B1 | European Patent Office (EPO) | B1 | |
| ES2463994T3 | Spain | T3 | |
| JP5697844B2 | Japan | B2 | |
| EP2072034B2 | European Patent Office (EPO) | B2 | |
| ES2463994T5 | Spain | T5 |
5 legal events, as the office reported them to INPADOC
Over the term
Point at a mark for the eventEvents
| Event | Code | |
|---|---|---|
| Patent application refused [chapter 9.2 patent gazette]MANTIDO O INDEFERIMENTO UMA VEZ QUE NAO FOI APRESENTADO RECURSO DENTRO DO PRAZO LEGAL.B09B | B09B | |
| Patent application refused [chapter 9.2 patent gazette]INDEFIRO O PRESENTE PEDIDO DE ACORDO COM O ART .8O COMBINADO COM ART. 13 DA LPI.B09B | B09B | |
| Application suspended after technical examination (opinion) [chapter 7.1 patent gazette]B07A | B07A | |
| Objections, documents and/or translations needed after an examination request according [chapter 6.6 patent gazette]B06F | B06F | |
| Publication of a patent application or of a certificate of addition of invention [chapter 3.1 patent gazette]B03A | B03A |
Numbers
- Application
- 8061122
Titles2
- English
- staining process of keratin fibers, device with several compartments and anhydrous composition
- Portuguese
- processo de coloração de fibras queratìnicas, dispositivo com varios compartimentos e composição anidra
Classification
- CPC, 4
- A61K8/41
- A61Q5/10
- A61K8/92
- A61K2800/31
- IPC, 2
- A61K8 41
- A61Q5 08